Homemade vise sizes. How to make a locksmith, carpentry vice with your own hands

In the open spaces of the Russian Internet, one can find statements like: "A real master makes a vice only on his own." It is not difficult to imagine what a real master will say about this. He, an amateur or living by his own labor, a pro knows perfectly well which tool and equipment is better to buy and what should be made of it himself. However, there are times when it makes sense to make a vice with your own hands. For example, for a summer residence (those purchased there stand idle for the winter in vain, and they can steal them), when working on the road and / or on occasion (came to visit relatives, asked for help, but they are not artisans at all). Unfortunately, given the current situation with the tool, a circumstance also appears that makes one think: shouldn't he make the vice all the same?

Cast iron and steel

The details of the bed and clamping of the bench vice are supposed to be made of structural cast iron - it rusts very badly, is hard and viscous, has a small TCR (coefficient of thermal expansion), but most importantly, it is practically not subject to metal fatigue. Cast iron vice does not last decades - centuries. Since "the strength of the entire chain is determined by its weakest link", the vice jaws and a pair of lead screw - nut are made from various grades of tool steel. A simple constructional one is too ductile, it leads strongly when welding, and it rusts easily. Therefore, leave homemade vices like those in fig. below, it is not recommended to spend the winter in the country - during the winter they can become completely unusable.

But that is not the crux of the problem. And the fact is that now the paws of the jaws of the vices bought at an affordable price often break even at the first clamp; in the best case, with regular use, the vice will last six months or a year. When examining the fracture, it turns out that they are made of simple gray cast iron. The paws do not break, this is how the running pair wears out - the thread there is a usual triangular profile (see below), and steel, it seems, is no better than St44. And the prices for certified vices with full specifications and a guarantee ... let's not talk about sad things, we'd better remember something good from the past. As a result, the question arises: is it not worth making a vice yourself at home? Not to mention the case when it is necessary to clamp the workpiece, but at least some kind of vice is not within reach. They will not be better, so at least they will be cheaper. Or for nothing, if there are suitable scraps of metal profile in the trash, see, for example, the plot:

Video: half-day homemade vise from scrap metal

Primitive from the block

Most material processing operations require fixing the workpiece, and your own hands and feet are by no means the most suitable device for this. Therefore, let's start with a vise from a wooden block. To make them, you will need 4+ weave nails or 150-200 mm and an ax. A rip saw will also do the trick if you have one. The sight of such a device will cause either laughter or horror in a modern person, but the ancestors of the Stone Age would shed a tear of affection over him - the vise from the block of wood reliably holds irregularly shaped blanks made of almost any material.

How to make a vice from a wooden block is shown in Fig.:

A piece of log / log of good straight grained wood is split (sawn) as shown on the left in the figure; a crooked chip can be roughly hanged onto a plane. Fixed jaw and stubborn heel are attached to the “frame” with nails; the ancients fortified them with sharp splinters of hard wood. The nails are driven in obliquely so that the clamping force pulls them more than bends.

The movable jaw slides freely on the bed. Clamp - wedge; a wedge can be hanged at the end of the branch or a pair of them. Some skill is required to properly hang the wedge (s): too sharp will overturn the movable jaw on the workpiece, and too dull will squeeze it (sponge) up. But the clamped workpiece is held quite reliably due to the elasticity and toughness of the tree. So reliable that a wedge has to be knocked out to free the workpiece.

Note: Long workpieces can be fixed with a pair or more of the same vice.

What to expect from self-made

The described device is, of course, temporary - all its parts grind up rather quickly, even if the tree is pressing against the tree. Therefore, let us first deal with the question: what homemade vise is worth making?

Clamping devices of all kinds are innumerable in technology; patents for them number in the thousands and tens of thousands. It makes sense to make a vice, first of all, the most common ones on your own. Secondly, they do not require special materials, production equipment and complex technologies for the manufacture.

Ordinary locksmith's vice (item 1 in the figure) will have to be made non-rotating. Otherwise, you will have to look for either a ready-made pair of neck-skirt (see below), which, moreover, can be taken away during assembly by welding, or the opportunity to use a shaping machine (simply shaping). Of which there are very few on the go, labor-intensive and energy-intensive shaping processing is increasingly being replaced by precision casting, stamping and robots.

Note: in a shaping machine, the workpiece is clamped motionless, and the cutter, while rotating, moves along the longitudinal and transverse axes. In screw-cutting and carousel lathes, the workpiece is clamped in a rotating spindle (on a carousel table in a carousel) and the cutter moves in the longitudinal-transverse (in the lathe) or in the vertical-transverse planes. It never occurred to you to think about how the flanges / necks of curved cast pipes, casing of centrifugal pumps - "snails", etc. were turned. parts of complex configuration? On shaping.

Adjustable (mobile) mini-vice, pos. 2, seems to be simpler, but for their manufacture you need especially high-quality and, accordingly, difficult-to-process materials. The fact is that the pressure of the hand vice is determined by the muscular strength of the worker. And the cross-section of the parts of the vice with a decrease in their size decreases according to the quadratic law, i.e. quickly. The paws most often break off just at the mini-vise. However, expanding their functionality on your own is just not difficult, see below.

Ordinary carpentry vice, pos. 3, are part of the carpentry workbench and are inoperable without it. But further we will consider how to make a Moxon vise for woodworking, turning any desktop (including even a writing one) into an almost full-fledged carpentry workbench.

That's what a home craftsman really needs to do on his own is a one-coordinate machine vise (simple non-rotating table) to the drilling machine, pos. 4. They can also be used independently (separately from the machine) for a wide variety of jobs. The material for machine tools is usually commercially available; work on the manufacture of machine vices that are not inferior to the proprietary ones, literally nothing is required.

Jewelry vise hand (item 5) and table (item 6) - the most convenient pieces for small precision work. But alas - for their manufacture, special materials and equipment are needed, which is available at any general machine-building plant. At home, you can make good substitutes for the "frog" vice, pos. 7, which, by the way, are often included in the set of table jewelry vices, pos. eight.

But with an angular vise (pos. 9) for clamping parts connected at an angle, the case, as they say, is dull. It is possible to make their similarity with your own hands (pos. 10), but, firstly, it turns out that it is very difficult to secure the clamp already at a fixed angle of exactly 90 degrees, and if you succeed, then the angle then quickly "floats". Homemade angle vise with adjustable clamping angle is not even worth talking about. The same applies to 2-3 coordinate manual machine vices (pos. 11-14) and, for example, devices for knitting fishing flies (pos. 15), which are no longer a vice, but a narrowly specialized machine.

Locksmiths

The device of a hand-held locksmith vise is shown in Fig. The shaped screw nut is fixedly fixed in the tunnel of the bed; it also includes a clamp shank called a slider. The sections of the tunnel and the slider are also shaped (complex configuration) and correspond to each other.

As already mentioned, you will have to refuse to turn the vice in the horizontal plane: for this you need to grind a neck on the base plate, and a skirt on the bottom of the bed. Superprecision is not needed for this, but special equipment is required, see above.

The second problem is paws with lips. The paws must be very stiff so that they do not give in to the reaction of the part being clamped, and at the same time tough so that they do not break. Therefore, the cheapest material for the paws of a good vice, together with the clamp and the bed, is structural cast iron, but it is poorly processed, and the clamp with the bed is cast. You can't put a cupola or an electric furnace at 1700-1800 degrees at home, so we forget about casting ferrous metals.

However, cast iron is also very hard, rather fragile, and therefore paws without sponges can either spoil the part, or crumble themselves against it. Jaws made of hard wear-resistant and at the same time very resilient special steel solve the problem. It would be possible to make all the vice from it, but their price then ... You did not come across table vice at the price of. $ 1 for the same 1mm jaw width? This is all-steel, and we need to think about how to make the bed and the vice clamp, suitable at least for occasional use, from ordinary structural steel.

Running pair

But what seems to be insurmountable problems arise with the running pair of grips. It seems nothing complicated: a screw with a nut or a threaded hole in the bed. There is a groove in the screw neck; it seems to be possible to select it with a file, holding a screw, wrapped behind a thread with thin aluminum, in the chuck of a drilling machine or a drill fixed on the table. In the clamp (or in the slide of the vise assembled from separate parts), the screw is fixed with a fork grip, see Fig. on right.

The thing is, all these parts have to take on huge workloads. If you put on the knob with a force of approx. 20 kgf (nonsense for an adult normal man), then more than 120-130 kgf / sq. Will be needed for the thread with the screw neck and counterparts. mm. In total, so that the vise does not wear out very quickly, the screw, nut and fork must be made of steel with a yield strength of more than 150 kgf / sq. mm; in the usual constructional it is less than 100. And the usual metric thread of a triangular profile will quickly fold or converge.

Drawings of the lead screw of a bench vise with a jaw width of up to 180 mm are given in Fig.:

One critical point is bypassed here: instead of a groove on the neck, there are a pair of bushings made of ordinary steel. In this case, a fork can also be made from it. The screw retainer parts will have to be changed periodically, but that's all right. But how to cut a D20 trapezoidal thread? Looking for a running pair from an old vice? So in them with a 99.0% probability it is the "stroke" that is worn out, and the cast-iron bed, clamp and plate are still quite suitable for operation.

It's not all bad

The lead screw and nut for it for irregularly used vices with a jaw width of up to 150 mm can be found in almost any hardware, tool or hardware store or at the iron market. New, the fly did not sit. Where? Of the fasteners designed for a load of at least 450-460 kgf. These nodes are very important, and the steel on them is just suitable, even better - a running pair of vices, on which they do not work intensively, will be quite durable and with a conventional metric thread.

The cheapest will be a ring anchor for hanging heavy chandeliers or multifunctional simulators to the ceiling and walls, at the top in Fig. below. Make sure only that the screw is either cast, or the joint of the ring and the neck is welded on it (shown by the red arrow). Ring anchors are available up to M22 in lengths up to 450 mm - make the vice you want. The M12x150 ring anchor holds a load of 480 kgf, and the M16x220 for a 150 mm vice is also suitable with a margin.

The second option “the fly didn’t sit” will cost more, but perhaps also at the price of scrap metal - if it is broken. This is a lanyard hook-ring, below in fig. Of course, the annular part (shown by the green arrow) comes into play. The advantage is that you immediately have a great wear-resistant nut. The disadvantage is the shorter length and, accordingly, the stroke of the vise jaws: the screws of the lanyard have 200 lengths of threaded parts a little more than 100 mm.

Note: some disadvantages of both - the vise knob will have to be turned for a long time each time, because standard metric thread pitch approx. three times less than a special trapezoid. With a running pair, it will be necessary to periodically lubricate with grease or other grease - a "dry" vice with such a running pair is spinning tightly, but not tight.

Sponges

How the locksmith's vice, well-known to the readers of Runet, works is shown in Fig. below. There, however, a mistake - lock nuts are also needed M16. The rear one is screwed on first along the way of the screw and welded to the stud. Then the hairpin with the back washer put on is inserted into the clamp, which is also the slider in this case (the "moving part" in the figure); the front washer is put on, the front M16 nut is screwed on and welded, and the eyelet for the wrench is welded; now this is the M18 nut. Bed ("movable part") - square professional pipe 120x120x4; the slider is also a square professional pipe 100x100x3.

So far so good, but the sponges are also from a professional pipe. Their working surfaces are smooth, but corrugated ones are needed, but this is not so bad. And the trouble is that already from a slight pressure, the sponges will irreversibly disperse (added to the figure). Jibs inside or outside will not help - the metal itself is not suitable. The reader may have already guessed - since the problem is described, there is a way out. Even two, see below and next. chapter.

Note: the dignity of locksmith vices from sections of professional pipes is cheapness. Suitable pieces are sure to be found in any pile of scrap metal, see eg. video below:

Video: homemade vise from pipe scraps

The first one is also from Runet: paws and jaws from the shanks of turning tools for metal. On the paws - the incisors are thicker; on the lips - smaller. But this, in general, is not an option. Tool steel is very difficult to machine. Almost all that can be done with it in a home workshop is to saw off the shanks with a grinder, weld sponges to the paws and all together to the bed and the clamp. Tool steel is hardly welded. But it also cooks badly: ready-made paws with sponges, welding them to professional pipes, will have to be heated so that it will inadmissibly lead the bed / clamp. And the times are not the same now when it was possible to collect worn-out incisors at a factory dump, and to buy defective ones for a penny in the "Young Technician" store. With the spread in the world of electric arc melting of metals, tool steel has become a valuable secondary raw material, and at enterprises, exhausted turning tools are taken into account by the piece. Therefore, we pass to the second exit.

Machine tools

As mentioned above, it is most profitable to make a machine vice with your own hands. They greatly simplify drilling work, and the material for the machine vice is suitable for almost any available one: from the channel, see the video:

Video: simple vise from a channel

to plywood, see plot:

Video: plywood joinery vice for a drilling machine

And again the lips

The strength and stability of the jaws for machine vices is even more important than for locksmiths: if a drill (cutter, cutter) turns a part out of them, this is fraught with serious injury. And so, we return to the question above: what to make the jaws of the vice? From a corner from 40x40x4. In this case, the entire sponge will work not for shear, but for bending, which the metal resists much more strongly. This is the case when less iron is stronger.

But not every corner of the same size is suitable. A drawn and cold-rolled corner (pos. A and B in the figure below) is unsuitable - the metal is rather weak. Sponges and homemade and locksmith's, and machine vice must be made from a hot-rolled corner (pos. B). First, it is much stronger. Secondly, a number of its standard sizes are wider: if the thickness of the shelf of a cold-rolled corner of general purpose is up to 0.1 of the smaller width, then for a hot-rolled one it is up to 0.2b. That is, you can find a hot-rolled corner, say, 60x60x12 - the jaws of the vice from it will be quite reliable.

A hot-rolled corner is easy to recognize by the type of cut: the entire edge of the outer corner is always sharp (shown by the arrow on the left in the next figure), and inside it there is a fillet larger than that of a cold-rolled corner. If the vise is being assembled for welding, both equal and unequal angles will do. If you assemble them on bolts, it is better to use an unequal shelf with a ratio of the widths of the shelves (1.5-2) / 1 (a / b = 1.5 ... 2/1). In this case, the large shelf is laid horizontally!

A diagram of the device of a self-made machine vice from a corner on bolts is given in the center in Fig; on the right - drawings of their general view. The slider and the clamp for the clamping screw are bent from a steel strip with a thickness of 1.5 mm. The screw in it can be fixed with a groove, because its fixation works only when the movable jaw is retracted and is loaded negligibly. When pressed, the tail of the screw rests directly on the sponge; the screw itself is M16-M20. For more information on homemade machine vice from the corner, see the video:

Video: simple vise for a drilling machine

Improving the mini

You can't really improve modern mini-vices, but if you come across or already have old Soviet ones (for example, pos. A in the figure on the right):

Their functionality can be significantly expanded in this way:

Drill out (carefully, not completely!) The setscrew shank flare holding the set clamp plate. You need to drill with a drill with short "pokes" obliquely from different sides.
The poppet is removed and the set clamp screw is unscrewed (do not lose it or the poppet).
In the section of the channel, a hole is drilled for a bolt with the same thread as on the clamp screw.
The vice is mounted on the resulting stand and fixed with a lock nut (pos. B).
A blind axial hole for the M2-M3 thread is drilled in the clamp screw through the remainder of the shank. This is not difficult to do, since a tapered recess remains in the pin from the shank.
The axial hole is tapped.
The plate is put back in place and is kept from falling out by a cone screw (shown with an arrow in pos. B).
The screw of the clamp is determined for storage in a storage box, sorry, storeroom.

Thus, we get, neither more nor less - a turntable for small drilling work. True, without an angular divider, but instead of it, a protractor can be adapted to the base from the channel, and an arrow-pointer can be attached to the vise bracket. The resulting accuracy of 1 degree is enough for home amateur work. And if you remove the vise from the base and replace the clamping screw, it can be used for its original purpose.

Making a frog

Jewelry vise in amateur work, as mentioned above, in most cases is replaceable with frog vise; they can also be clamped in an ordinary vice. Its best home-made option is if the handle of your pliers or other pliers has a broken handle, at the top in fig. To drill the jaws of the pliers, you need to purchase a carbide twist drill - the usual for metal will not take them.

Homemade frog vice (locksmith clamps with fixation)

A simple replacement, if the pliers still do not break, a frog vise made of oak or beech bars, a steel bracket, overhead jaws from a steel corner and fasteners, at the bottom left in Fig. A stronger option is a frog from a door or small barn hinge, bottom right. But you will have to pant over it, using the usual vice. You may have to release the workpiece by heating it red hot and then slowly cooling it down.

Carpentry

The Moxon Joiner's Vise is designed for the itinerant joiner and carpenter. In Europe, the USA and Canada, this is a rather demanded specialty: with the local prices for sawn timber, many customers require that the master work with them on site and leave the smallest trimmings, up to sawdust and shavings, to the owner. A pair of Moxon vices, which makes it possible to work with long materials, can be carried in the trunk of a car, on a bicycle, a scooter and carried in a bag. The find was immediately appreciated by amateurs - Moxon's vice allows you to quickly and reversibly turn any more or less durable table into a carpenter's workbench.

The appearance and method of fastening the Moxon mobile carpentry vise are shown on the left and in the center in Fig. On the right is the device of their amateur version for fastening tightly to the table.

Moxon's grip gave rise to many modifications. Drawings of one of them, a very simple and convenient carpentry vice of just 3 boards and a pair of clamps, are shown in Fig. Further. True, in fact, you will need 2 more short clamps to attach the vice to the table. Extra 4 clamps (also not a very cheap pleasure in our time) may turn out to be expensive for an amateur. But for the carpenter - individual entrepreneur working on call, such a vice is a godsend, they can be disassembled and carried with you in an ordinary duffel bag.

If you decide to equip your own workshop, workbench or work table, then you may definitely need a homemade vise. This is a relatively simple matter, and a workbench or workshop made will serve you for a long time. You should study in more detail the question of how to make a locksmith vice with your own hands and what nuances accompany this process.

Twin screw joinery

If you are looking for a workbench carpentry vise that is really powerful, then this is the best choice. twin-screw modification of the specified device... The M20 tow bolts provide a force of several tons, which is an excellent option for such a vice. The assembly procedure for such a device is as follows:

We prepare all the necessary tools;
We make the appropriate slots and holes;
Insert bolts and turns;
We check the vise for strength and performance.

Step-by-step and detailed instructions on assembling and self-creating a vice for the workshop and workbench are available on specialized resources and forums in the form of photos and recommendations.

It is very convenient for ready-made desktops make moxon mini vise... To get started, you need the following materials and tools:

After the workpiece has been cut, sand the edges with sandpaper. We round off the edges of the wheels with a drill and all the same sandpaper. To make screws, you need to purchase a long threaded rod and cut the metal blanks in two.

After that, you need to insert the nuts into the holes. Stick the leather on the clamps and remove any excess. Surface protection is provided by tung oil. It, unlike other means for wood impregnation, polymerizes inside and outside the wood with rapid penetration into the lower layers. After the oil has dried, it remains to connect all the resulting parts together - and the vise will be ready to use.

They are also easy to make with your own hands.... First you need to cut the plywood to size. Weld the two nuts to the flat plate for the threaded rail and fasten them under the table with screws, as this will add stability to the structure in question. It is very important to correctly align everything, otherwise it will not work.

After that, you need to make a groove for the nut with a chisel. On the outer lock, drill a hole 3 cm deep.Therefore, the thickness of the plywood should be 3 cm.

She is a copy of the usual vice, only made of wood. Of the metal parts, only a 45 cm long and 8 cm thick screw should be used here. Solid pine plywood, well dried, is suitable.

Vise jaws are made from separate blocks, which are subsequently glued together. Sand the edges with sandpaper to give them their final shape. At the same time, for one block, it is worth choosing a thicker tree. This compensates for the space between the moving and stationary parts. The handle through the head should pass freely into the hole, then add the knob and the anvil. When finished, remove the fixing screws, coat the vise elements with two coats of polyurethane oil and leave to dry overnight. Bolt the vise to the work table.

Oak vise

The design of this structure is based on old drawings., the body is made of oak sleepers. The jaws can be cut by hand or with a saw. Grooves are hammered down on both sides of the base. The brackets add strength to the back sponge and attach it well to the base.

The top of the tee is on top of the clamping bolt. You will also need a large bolt and a square head, which is fixed in the body groove at the base of the vise. On each side of the base, a steel strip should be added at the bottom to protect the side brackets from wear.

Make homemade vise, as we can see, it turns out that it is not so difficult. There are many sites and articles on the Internet that tell in detail about the manufacture of devices for various workbenches and desktops. It is very interesting to make an oak vise, since solid pine plywood is ideal for them. The steel strip is a good addition as it prevents wear on the brackets and vice in general. Successful work and making homemade workbenches!

Do-it-yourself vices can be made from scrap materials. For this, screws with a thread of 20 mm and a length of 150 mm are used. They can be removed from the sports corner. The thread of such screws is designed for significant loads.

Homemade joinery vices can be made from scrap materials.

Design features

It is recommended to make a do-it-yourself carpenter's vice using long screws. The distance between the tool jaws depends on this indicator. The studs are replaced with other fasteners. To secure the handle to the screw, you need to make a slot. If necessary, the hole is widened with a file.

A homemade tool must be completed with a screw with a ring. A fixed sponge is made from a board. She is nailed to the table. To make the movable part of the workbench, you need a board 20 mm thick and 18 mm wide. The sponge should be 50 cm long.

A perforated drill is used to arrange the screw hole. It is recommended to preliminarily adjust it to a diameter of 21 mm. To make a hole for the studs, you need a drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Screws and pins are inserted into the holes.

In order for homemade vices to process short workpieces, the pins are rearranged. 2 additional holes are made in the board. For working with long boards, a drilling machine with long screws is made.

Application of pressed nuts

Joiner's tools with a pressed-in nut are made from metal staples. To prevent the key from falling off the nut when clamping the workpiece, it must be pressed in. To do this, you need to warm up the sponges of the key on the fire.

Joiner's tools can be made from shock absorbers and M18 nuts. Holes are made in the corners of 1 elements. Countersunk head bolts are used to fix them together. For self-production of a vice, you can use the following materials:

metallic profile;
hairpin;
nuts;
welding;
corners.

Preliminarily, 2 sections are cut from the profile. The third strip is cut lengthwise at an angle. A bottom is cut out of a long strip using magnetic corners. The workpieces are tried on and cleaned to ensure good adhesion with the welder. The vise support is aligned with the magnetic corners. The next stage involves welding the last elements and supports. To give the tool greater strength, metal strips are used.

Additional work

Diagram of the device of the joinery vice.

Then the front lip of the vise is welded to the guide. Previously, it is placed with a cutout down. The next step is to make the bed. A metal tape is welded to the last element. Its tasks include limiting the travel of the guide and holding the threaded fastener.

The nuts are welded to the bed. The stud is pre-screwed in. The stem hole is marked and drilled into the plate. The last part is welded on. The steel fastener is screwed onto the bed. The nut is screwed onto the 1st element.

The stem is inserted into the bed so that the pin goes through the hole. 2 nut is screwed on top. The pipe is passed through it. The excess pieces of metal tape are cut off. The rear lip is welded to the workpiece and to the bed. If necessary, a homemade tool is painted. To do this, you will need to clean them with a felt circle, the stem is lubricated with a special grease. The vices are collected.

Conclusion on the topic

At home, you can make bench and joinery vice. To make 2 tools, water and gas pipes are used. It is necessary to select pipes with different diameters. A product with a smaller diameter is inserted into a large analogue and fixed by electric welding.

A flange with an M18 nut is installed on the smaller product. The threaded rod is inserted into the small pipe so that the pre-fixed nut rests against the large bore flange. Another fastener is threaded onto the protruding end of the stud. A welding machine is used to fix the 1st element.

The end of the threaded rod is screwed into the nut of the large diameter pipe. The next step is to install the pressure plate and the base plate on the vice. The jaws are made from a square tube and the legs are made from a corner.

For ease of use, a nut is welded to the protruding end of the stud. This takes into account the possibility of installing a metal bar in it. This technology will allow you to rotate the axle, easily controlling the vice.

Homemade vices can have some negative characteristics:

simultaneous rotation of the inner tube with a hairpin;
the pipe must be in the correct position (this requires installing a retainer).

When making a homemade vise from 2 scraps in the form of squares, you should adhere to the above technology.

One of the main tools in any workshop is a vice. At first glance, this is a fairly simple tool, but in fact, with the help of a vice, you can perform a fairly large number of operations. There are a huge number of varieties: carpentry, locksmith, chair, cross. It so happens that the vice may become unusable. In this case, you can make a vice with your own hands.

A vice can be seen in any carpentry workshop. It is often necessary to clamp parts in order to grind them or simply glue them together. Homemade vices can cope with these tasks, which can be made with your own hands, and the price of such a product will be quite low. Often the jaws at the vise are made of soft wood to prevent damage to the part being clamped.

For convenience, the vice can be screwed to the workbench. In the fixed part, it is necessary to fix the furniture nut, into which the hairpin will be screwed, which, in turn, will move the movable mechanism. A washer must be rigidly attached to the movable jaw, and the knob itself must be attached to the handle. As for the sponge tips, they can be made from pieces of plywood.

If you need to assemble a carpentry vice with your own hands, then this option is considered optimal.

First, you need to mark all the parts, then cut out three identical bars (the longer the length of the bar, the larger the product can be clamped). The bed can be made from thick planks or 3 pieces of plywood. Drill two vertical holes in two fixed blocks. Drill a hole in one of the bars for a pin, which will act as a clamping mechanism. The next step is to install the nut into the timber.

At the end of the hairpin, you need to weld a small rectangular patch and drill 4 holes in it for fastening. After that, screw the pin into the fixed jaw and screw its end to the movable jaw, and the structure itself to the workbench.

These vices are also called Moxon vices or bench vices, they are quite successful in clamping large-sized boards, plywood, and various panels. The advantage of this type is that they do not take up a small area in the workshop, but are made of wood.

The dimensions must be selected independently; do-it-yourself carpentry vice for a workbench can be made using a minimum of tools and material.

The construction looks like this:

For manufacturing, you will need two studs, four nuts, three boards. After the boards are prepared and cut to size, it is necessary to drill two holes in the fixed and movable part. Then, in the fixed part, insert the nuts into the drilled holes, having previously greased them with glue on both sides. A small nuance: the holes in the stationary part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the nuts themselves, in order to avoid the nut turning in the hole. First, you need to weld the studs with a knob for convenience or make a wooden handle. The base for the stationary part can be made in the form of a step. Screw the finished structure to the workbench with self-tapping screws or bolts.

If you often have to work with metal, then for these tasks you need a strong metal vise that you can make with your own hands.

In order to assemble a locksmith vice with your own hands, you need the following tools:

Welding machine.
Electric drill.
Grinder with a cleaning wheel.
A square to comply with the required angles.
Drills of various diameters.

In addition to the tool, you will need:

Steel channel with a diameter of 6 mm.
Sheet metal 5-6 mm thick, as much as possible.
Corner 70 by 70 or 50 by 50.
Twenty bolts and nuts.

If you have a 16 mm diameter pin, you can use it as a clamping screw that will move the moving part. It is rather difficult to make two nuts into which the screw will be screwed in, and besides, the rest of the parts are rather non-standard and it is rather difficult to find them, so it makes sense to turn to a turner.

Then weld the nut to the channel, this must be done coaxially.

The ends of the channel must be closed with a piece of sheet metal and a screw hole must be cut in the strip.

Using a grinder, cut two corners and a plate. Lean the corners against the channel on both sides and cover with a piece of sheet metal on top. You will get a kind of U-shaped design.

The bed can be cut from 7-10 mm metal and drilled four holes on each side, as well as 6 holes in the U-shape.

Weld one nut to the bed, and weld two metal stoppers on the sides of the nut.

From steel, you need to cut blanks for two jaws, movable and fixed. The stationary workpiece can be welded immediately.

Then weld the second workpiece onto the moving part. On the sponges themselves, you need to make a kind of heels of thick metal. They can be welded or bolted.

If desired, you can strengthen the jaws on both sides with corner gussets made of thick metal.

These vices are no worse than purchased ones, and a minimum of material costs will be required. By this principle, you can make another version of yews from a hand jack. The finished product can be painted to give an aesthetic look.

Anyone who uses a drilling machine probably knows how difficult it is to drill and at the same time hold a workpiece that just strives to scroll or fly off and injure the master. As a rule, in old machines there is no vice on the bed, which brings certain inconveniences. For more comfortable work, you can purchase a tool, or you can make a vice for a drilling machine with your own hands.

For a machine vise you will need:

Corner 30 by 30.
Threaded hairpin.
Stud nuts.
Small bearing.
If desired, you can paint the product.

The drawing looks like this:

First you need to saw off two corners. The size is selected depending on the dimensions of the drill bed. Cut two sponges out of thick metal with a grinder and make markings. Drill holes in them to attach the jaws to the base.

Take a piece of the angle piece and drill a hole for the stud. You can immediately weld on the bearing, as shown in the figure.

Opposite the mount with the bearing, weld a similar angle and drill a hole for the shaft.

Opposite the mount where the bearing is located, three nuts must be welded.

In order to make it convenient to twist the pin, you can weld a nut to its beginning, into which you can insert the knob. Homemade vices for a drilling machine are in no way inferior in design and quality to factory ones and are several times cheaper.

Most anglers prefer a homemade fly tying vise rather than a store-bought one. The device itself has a fairly simple design, which allows them to be made in a short time and without special tools at home. The most difficult step in making a vice is the jaws themselves. They are made of rectangular steel bar. In the finished jaws, two holes are drilled for attaching to yews and one for an adjusting screw. The holes must be tapped (M6) with a tap.

The yew support can be made from T-shaped or L-shaped steel bar. Sponges are welded to the end of one of the blanks. The bar must be welded to the support, and if you need to make the support adjustable, then a piece of trim pipe is welded to the workpiece, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the workpiece. It is recommended to make the length of the support about 20-50 cm high for more comfortable work.

If the vice has become unusable and there is no way to fix it, then you should not buy new ones right away, but try to do it yourself. Such a tool will serve for quite a long time and will cost several times less.

For sure, everyone who has solved any construction and economic problems with their own hands has a table vise. Hence, we are familiar with this tool. But today it is far from the only, albeit the most affordable, version of this tool.

What is a vise for?

Starting repair work, first of all, you have to think about the availability of construction tools and devices. Much on the farm cannot be done without this device, often a joinery vice is a holding link in any kind of processing of parts and materials. They are understood as a device that includes a body and two clamping jaws. The main purpose of this tool is to rigidly fix parts during work such as:

milling;
drilling;
planing.

The product is fixed by turning the handle of the main screw. Instead of it, other mechanisms can be adapted, such as wedge, diaphragm, eccentric, pneumatic. In fact, it is the main locksmith tool. Good craftsmen know that if the workpiece is not firmly fixed, then the work will not be accurate and of high quality. Moreover, when the part is firmly fixed, the hands remain completely free, and this makes it possible to control the work process.

Bench vices and more - what are the common structural elements?

This tool is installed on any work surface, at home it can be a regular table or any flat surface. Although there are also manual vices that are not attached anywhere, but serve for high-quality pressing of several parts to each other. In terms of their size, they can be large, medium and very small. The size does not play a big role in the operation of such a device, it is just that larger ones can hold larger parts.

Most often, this device is made of the following types: general purpose, rotary locksmith vise for any fittings and pipe vise, which have additional jaws for pipes. Basically, all species differ quite a bit in their design. A vise consists of the following parts:

body parts;
lead screws;
lever;
lead screw nuts;
replaceable strips.

Carpentry and machine vice - we study the species range

The most frequently used machine tools and locksmiths... Rotary machine vices are designed to provide rigid fastening of parts during various construction works. They have a special turntable, it is needed to ensure the free rotation of parts around the vertical axis. When the position is selected, the tool is fixed to the base using special bolts. The turntable should not be used continuously, otherwise the rigidity of the entire structure may be reduced.

Sinus vise is used when the workpiece needs to be set at an angle. To begin with, you need to calculate the required angle (while using a special formula) of the height of the stand, sometimes a drawing is even drawn, while the vise, when sold, has all the necessary details to bring the idea of the drawing to life. With their help, the part is installed on the movable part, that is, in the space between the cylindrical sleeve and the lower support.

Recently, two-position (cross) vice has been produced. They are very versatile and the most popular with professionals. This device allows you to install parts with an inclination in 2 perpendicular planes. There is also another type of machine tool - curved vice, also called precision. They are used for finishing parts, when it is no longer necessary to fix the object strongly, because intensive physical operations will not be performed with it.

The peculiarity of the precision vise is that the connector there is made in such a way that it provides almost perfect parallelism and perpendicularity of the axes when fastening, therefore these tools are considered high-precision.

If the parts need to be fixed at an angle in 3 planes, then you cannot do without a three-coordinate vice. This is the most complex and expensive tool, but it has many possibilities. While working on such a vice, it is possible to use separate halves of the clamps. They are firmly fixed right there on the table. The fixation is firm thanks to one sponge, which has a very small stroke. Such a tool allows you to process two parts at once. This is convenient and helps improve productivity.

The locksmith's vice is the same “old-fashioned” clamping tool. They are used when the part is dangerous or inconvenient to hold in the hands during processing. They are adapted to work with soft materials such as plastic, wood and the like. All vise types are available in different sizes. The difference may be the size of the movable jaws. The difference between machine tools is the height of the sponge, most often it is less. Locksmith's vice and rigidity also differ, they, as a rule, should be more rigid.

Every owner wants to have a convenient carpentry vice in his workshop. This will allow you to process any parts or workpieces made of wood or other soft material at any time. With their help, wood carving is quickly carried out. Many craftsmen replace this device with clamps. This is a little inconvenient, they can slip off from time to time, and you only need to attach them to the bar. It is better to have a carpenter's vice, and you can even make them yourself at home.

Homemade vise: minimum details - maximum effect

If you pay attention to store tools of this type, then they represent a body and a movable bar. She, in turn, can move along two guides. The tool must be screwed to the surface with screws and special bolts. The sponges are made in such a way that you can always attach different pads: wood, plastic or other soft material. Having considered the principle of operation and the device, it is quite possible to design a homemade vise.

The first step is to purchase the parts that make up the tool. You will need a screw, 20mm threaded and 150mm long, can be found in sports corners, usually inserted inside vertical tubes. Its purpose is to firmly press the structure against the ceiling. Preference should be given to the longest screws, this will increase the distance between the jaws. Studs are also needed, they are often found in old parts, but you can buy in the store. If they are not found, then you can use similar fasteners, for example, pay attention to the mirror mounts for mopeds. Often there they are slightly curved, but they can be straightened with a sledgehammer.

It is necessary that the screw head has a slot, because it often happens that it does not fit the size of the handles, but this is easy to fix, you need to use a round file: a few movements - and the hole is widened. A ring screw can be a good handle for tightening. Next, a stationary sponge is made, it can be made from. It must be nailed firmly to the table surface. But the movable part is made from a board, where the thickness is about 20 mm, and the width is 18 mm. The length of the movable jaws should be about 50 cm.

Holes are drilled in the boards using a feather. It needs to be adjusted to a diameter of 21 mm. There should also be holes in the studs, and you can make them using a regular drill, where the diameter is 10 mm. In order to complete the work faster by making a vice with your own hands, and to get the result more accurately, it is advisable to knit the boards together, and after completing the work, simply remove the nails. After the holes are ready, the studs and screws will only have to be inserted, all the nuts and bolts are also attached.

If you need to work with short workpieces, then you just need to rearrange the pins. For this, more holes have to be drilled and they must be close to the clamping screws. Depending on what parts will be selected, you can make a vice of different sizes. This will allow you to work with boards of any length and with parts of different sizes and shapes. It is important that this tool is firmly attached during operation. Russian craftsmen have always been famous for their ingenuity, which is not done by human hands. As one phrase says: "There would be a desire, and the rest is all the little things."