Do-it-yourself compressor from d8. How to make an air compressor with your own hands: design options

Almost all motorists who make something every day in their garage understand perfectly well that with tools and components in their hands, you can always create something you need.

In the same way, it is possible to create a whole compressor for painting a car from a conventional compressor for a Soviet-style refrigerator.

That's just how to do it in technical terms, and in what order?

Therefore, due to the frequently asked questions of beginner self-taught masters, in this article you will learn how to make such a compressor on your own and from manual materials.

Which compressor to choose (factory or homemade)

The main criterion that should be followed when choosing a station for painting is a uniform distribution of air, without foreign particles.

If such impurities come across, then the coating will be with small defects - graininess, shagreen, cavities. At the same time, streaks and stains can form due to these particles, so it is best to entrust the painting to a branded air compressor, but there is only one catch - such a device is too expensive, which many motorists cannot afford.

You can save money and at the same time create a functional model by creating functional equipment, which is described in many videos and articles.

You will only have to spend your precious time studying the material, and then creating equipment that must be of at least high quality.

The model presented by the factory or homemade does not play a role, because the principle of its operation is the same and it consists in creating excessive pressure. That's just the method of air injection is completely different - it can be extracted manually or mechanically.

In the second case, this is a significantly higher cost of funds, the manual method is economical, but time-consuming, requiring constant monitoring.

Automatic inflation does not consume your strength, but the product requires periodic maintenance, which is worth only the process of changing the oil for the compressor.

This is the only way to achieve uniform air supply and distribution. After studying the theory, you realize how easy it is to make a compressor station that will work well, while it does not take much time.

We collect the compressor unit from improvised means -

If you decide to create equipment for painting your own car, then you should stock up on certain materials for this:

  1. The reverse function will require a car camera;
  2. For the supercharger function, you will need a pump with a pressure gauge;
  3. chamber nipple;
  4. Repair kit and awl.

When all the components are prepared, you can begin to create a compressor station. To check how tight the chamber is, it is necessary to pump it.

If the problem still exists, then it can be solved in two ways - by gluing or by vulcanizing with raw rubber. In the resulting reverse, it is necessary to make a hole for supplying compressed air so that it comes out evenly.

A special nipple is placed in the hole for this. The repair kit will serve for the implementation of additional fasteners of the fitting. To check the uniformity of the air supply, it is enough to unscrew the nipple. Native nipple allows you to get rid of excessive pressure.

The level of pressure is determined during operation, when the paint is sprayed. If the enamel on the metal lies evenly, then the installation is functioning. At the end of the procedure, it is worth determining the pressure indicators, for this it is enough to spray paint on the body of your car.

If the enamel lies without tubercles, then the device is functioning efficiently. In addition, pressure indicators can be monitored using a special device - a pressure gauge. But, its indicator after pressing the aerator should not be chaotic.

As you can see, special tools and knowledge are not required to create such a compressor. At the same time, repairing and painting a car in this way is more effective than using a spray can.

Remember that neither dust nor water should get into the car chamber. Otherwise, you will have to re-paint the car.

If this installation is used correctly and with the use of all knowledge, then it will last a long time, and if you also automate the pumping of air, then the process itself will go quickly.

Alternative to a professional device (compressor from the refrigerator)

Home-made compressor devices serve much longer than the presented time, even in comparison with installations of domestic and foreign production.

This is quite natural, because creating it with our own hands, we do everything for ourselves at the highest level. Therefore, people even thought about how to create a compressor from a refrigerator, which will be on a par with the installations of popular companies.

But to create it, you should stock up on such components as a pressure gauge, a relay, rubber adapters, an oil and moisture separator, a fuel filter, a gearbox, a motor, a switch, a hose, clamps, brass tubes, but also little things - nuts, paint, wheels from furniture.

Creating the mechanism itself

Buying a compressor from an old refrigerator from the Soviet era can simplify the whole procedure. This will not pull too much on the budget, while there is already a compressor start relay.

Foreign competitors are inferior to this model, because they are not able to develop such a high pressure. But the Soviets cope with this task.

After removing the execution unit, it is advisable to clean the compressor from layers of rust. To avoid the oxidation process in the future, it is worth using a rust converter.

It turns out that the working motor housing is ready for the painting process.

Installation scheme

The preparatory process is completed, now you can change the oil. Since the refrigerator is old and it is unlikely that it underwent constant maintenance, it is worth updating this point.

Since the system was always located far from external influences, maintenance work was justifiably not carried out there. For this procedure, expensive oil is not required, semi-synthetic is enough.

At the same time, it is not worse in terms of the presented characteristics of any compressor oil and has many additives used with benefit.

Inspecting the compressor, you will find 3 tubes, one of them is already soldered, but the rest are free. Open are used for air inlet and outlet. To understand how air will circulate, it is worth connecting the power to the compressor.

Write down for yourself which of the holes draws in air and which releases it. But the sealed tube must be opened, it will serve as an opening for changing the oil.

The file is necessary for the implementation of the tube file, while making sure that the chips do not get inside the compressor. To determine how much oil is already there, drain it into a container. With the subsequent replacement, you will already know how much it will have to be poured.

Then we take a spitz and fill it with semi-synthetics, but this time expect that the volume should be twice as much as it has already been drained. When the container is filled with oil, it is worth turning off the engine lubrication system; for this, a screw is used, which is pre-formed with a fum tape and placed simply in the tube.

Do not be alarmed if drops of oil periodically appear from the outlet air tube. This situation is not so difficult to resolve, find an oil and moisture separator for a home-made installation.

The preliminary work is over, only now you can proceed to the direct assembly of the installation. And they start with strengthening the engine, it is best to choose a wooden base for this and in such a position that it is on the frame.

It is worth noting that this part is very sensitive to position, so follow the instructions on the top cover, where the arrow is drawn. Accuracy is important in this matter, because the correctness of the mode change directly depends on the correct installation.

Where is compressed air located?

A cylinder capable of withstanding high pressure is a container from a fire extinguisher. At the same time, they have high strength indicators and can be used as attachments.

If we take as a basis the OU-10 fire extinguisher, which holds 10 liters, then we should count on a pressure of 15 MPa. We unscrew the locking and starting device, instead of which we install an adapter. If you have identified traces of rust, then these places should be treated without fail with a rust converter.

Externally, it is not difficult to remove it, but it is more difficult to clean it internally. But the easiest way is to pour the converter itself into the cylinder and shake it well so that all the walls are saturated with it.

When the cleaning is done, the water cross is screwed in and we can assume that we have already prepared two working parts of a self-made compressor design.

Carrying out the installation of parts

Earlier it was already stipulated that a wooden board is suitable for fixing the engine and the fire extinguisher body, it is also even easier to store working parts.

In terms of mounting the engine, threaded studs and washers will serve, just think in advance about making holes. Plywood is required to fix the receiver vertically.

A recess is made in it for a cylinder, the second and third are fixed to the main board using self-tapping screws and hold the receiver. To give the design maneuverability, you should screw the wheels from the furniture to the base.

To prevent dust from entering the system, its protection should be considered - the use of a coarse gasoline filter can be considered an excellent option. With its help, the function of an air intake will be easily performed.

Since the pressure indicators are low at the opening with the inlet of the compressor equipment, it will not be necessary to increase it.

Once you have created an inlet filter for compressor installation work, be sure to install an oil/water separator at the end to avoid water droplets in the future. Since the outlet pressure is high, you will need car clamps.

The oil-moisture separator is connected to the inlet of the reducer and the pressure outlet of the supercharger. To control the balloon pressure, the pressure gauge itself should also be screwed in on the right side, where the outlet is located on the opposite side.

To control pressure and power at 220v, a relay is installed for adjustment. As an actuator, many masters recommend using PM5 (RDM5).

This device responds to work, if the pressure drops, then the compressor turns on, if it rises, then the device is pumped out completely.

To set the proper pressure, the springs on the relay are used. The large spring is responsible for the minimum indicator, but the small one for the maximum, thereby setting the framework for the operation and shutdown of the self-made compressor installation.

In fact, PM5 are ordinary two-pin switches. One contact will be needed to connect to the zero of the 220 V network, and the second to combine with the supercharger.

A toggler is needed to disconnect from the network from it and save yourself from constant running around in the direction of the outlet. All connected wires must be insulated for safety reasons. When these works are carried out, you can paint over the installation and check it.

Pressure regulation

When the design is assembled, it is quite natural to check it. We connect the last components - an airbrush or an air gun and connect the installation to the network.

We check the operation of the relay, how well it will cope with turning off the engine, and monitor the pressure with a pressure gauge. If everything works properly, proceed to the leak test.

The easiest way to do this is to use soapy water. When the tightness is checked, we bleed the air from the chamber. The compressor starts when the pressure drops below the minimum limit. Only after checking all the systems and bringing them into working condition, you can proceed to the procedure for painting parts.

For painting, you only need to determine the pressure and not load yourself with pre-treatment of the metal. To carry out painting with a uniform layer, it is necessary to experiment and determine atmospheric indicators in this way.

It is important to use the supercharger as little as possible. Each motorist will deal with the components and begin to manufacture an automobile compressor.

You can choose different production options, but the use of starting the navigator, automatic pressure control is a more complex design, but its use is one and a real pleasure.

In this case, you do not have to take time to control the receiver, which will open up more opportunities, and you can start painting a car, a fence or even a gate.

Routine maintenance is a mandatory procedure in order to extend the life of your homemade compressor.

To change the oil - drain or fill it, you can use a regular syringe. Replacement of filters is carried out only if necessary, when the speed of filling the reservoir chamber is reduced.

Connecting components of the compressor

When it is decided which compressor to choose and reverse, it is worth considering the issue of combining them. At the same moment, it is worth determining how the air will flow to the airbrush. The unit that is mounted to the receiver is responsible for the distribution of air.

The main thing is that these components are compatible with each other. The pressure switch is responsible for turning the compressor off and on. Although RDM-5 is used for water supply systems, it is ideal for our case - for a relay.

The bottom line is that the connection element fits the external inch thread. To find out what pressure is in the receiver, you must use a pressure gauge and first consider the size that is suitable for the connection. We apply pressure to the air preparation unit and adjust it within 10 atmospheres, at this stage it is necessary to attach the oil separator filter.

The pressure gauge allows you to check the pressure, and the filter allows you to prevent the ingress of oil particles from the receiver. Elbows, tees and even fittings are the next components that will have to be prepared for installation. To understand the exact number, you need to think over the scheme, choose an inch as the size.

After resolving the issue with adapters, it is important to consider the moment of installation of the structure, most often chipboard boards are used for this. The design of your station should be maneuverable, because it will have to be moved around the workshop, in order to simplify your work, you should attach roller legs to it.

You won't have to invent here for a long time, just visit the furniture store, where there are a lot of such furniture wheels. To save space in your workshop, you can build a two-story structure. But here it is better to stock up on large bolts to fix the structure. To make it easier to prepare for this step, make a list of required items.

Assembling a semi-professional air blower

The assembly begins with the removal of the fire extinguisher twist and the installation of the transition device. After removing the fire extinguisher valve, install the adapter there.

Four components are immediately installed on a durable hose - a reducer, a pressure switch and an adapter.

The next step will be fixing the wheels to be installed on a chipboard sheet. Since the design is planned on two levels, it is necessary to make holes for the studs where the fire extinguisher will be placed.

The accumulator is easier to assemble, because there are brackets on both sides. The lower part is fixed to the base, and the top is used to install home-made equipment.

To reduce vibration when installing the compressor, silicone gaskets are used. The hose connects the outlet and the inlet of the air preparation.

The next step will be the connection work. Jumper, protective elements - all this needs to be thought out.

The entire connection chain is carried out through the relay and the switch, assuming that the entire connection goes according to the scheme: the phase wire goes to the switch, the next connection is the relay terminal. To carry out grounding on the relay, a special wire is wound up.

Which is better: buy or make a compressor yourself?

Compressor equipment on the market is represented by a large assortment. Piston components, vibration units, screw stations - all these are components that are used in other areas.

If you wish, you can not waste your time creating the installation, it is presented at any point of sale of auto parts or on specialized sites.

Such an extensive range greatly complicates the choice of the desired product. But if you decide to purchase a station, in this matter you should be guided by technical indicators, cost and reviews of those who have already managed to evaluate it.

If you are chasing warranty periods, then you should pay attention to the models of popular brands. Expensive products should be purchased if you are professionally engaged in repair work.

Products that do not have a name and status can let you down, so it’s better to spend money once and not take risks in this matter again. Many manufacturers of budget options save on constituent components.

As a result, you will encounter frequent breakdowns and replacement of parts, while warranty repairs will take a long time. Therefore, many motorists are well aware that a do-it-yourself installation is sometimes more reliable than a factory one.

Such products with technical indicators win. For example, the components of a home-made device for painting a car last much longer - compressors from refrigerators can work for decades, a fire extinguisher also has an enormous margin of safety.

You can always improve the performance of your compressor yourself, everything is in your hands, but you can’t experiment like that with a factory device.

Garage neighbors will probably get it when they see a well-made and well-thought-out device.

The compressor can be used in a wide variety of applications - for tire inflation, airbrushing, painting spare parts etc. With the necessary tools and certain technical knowledge, it is quite possible to independently manufacture this unit based on a conventional refrigerator.

A homemade compressor gives about 7 atmospheres, which is quite enough for an ordinary garage workshop, so many are increasingly thinking about how to make such a compressor? Do-it-yourself refrigerator compressor it will turn out to be quite quiet and, most importantly, cheap at its cost.

On average, the manufacture of this unit will require about one thousand rubles for all accessories.

Which is better - a homemade version or a professional device?

Before trying to make our compressor out of an old refrigerator, it is necessary to compare these two options, i.e. a ready-made compressor sold in specialized stores, and our home-made version. In total it is possible to distinguish a few major differences between them:

  • The design of the factory compressor has an electric motor that transmits torque to the working chamber through a belt drive. As for the homemade compressor, it consists of a housing and the engine itself, without belts.
  • In the factory version, automatic pressure relief systems, inlet and outlet filters, pressure gauges, etc. are already installed. In the compressor from the refrigerator, you will have to install the adjusting equipment yourself, taking into account all the features.
  • Despite the fact that most factory compressors are equipped with automatic systems, this feature is not implemented in some budget models. In other words, these units will have to be turned off on their own, marking the time by the clock. Homemade compressors are mainly equipped with a protective relay that turns off the engine when there is a risk of overheating.
  • In some factory models, any lubrication may be completely absent. Of course, they have a small motor resource, but there are no various exhausts. This circumstance is very important, especially if the spray gun behaves rather capriciously, not tolerating various impurities. As for homemade compressors, there is plenty of this oil. By the way, you need to pay attention to what kind of oil to fill in - synthetics are very poorly combined with the usual one, so you do not need to pour everything that is horrible.
  • The main feature of a homemade compressor is that it works very quietly, especially if you put all the tubes on it correctly, observing tightness. As for factory compressors, they behave more noisily, so its use is only possible outside the home.
  • The cost of manufacturing a home-made compressor is very low, because we take the main components from old equipment, and the control equipment will cost us one thousand rubles. As for the factory compressor, the situation is different.
  • It is not possible to make any technical changes to the factory compressor. In other words, if the unit is not powerful enough, then it can only be used as a tire inflation pump, no more. Homemade options are good because you can add some details to them, for example, a large receiver, so you can significantly increase the power of the device.
  • The factory compressor is a complete technical device, so any improvisation with it is impossible. With a home-made unit, you can do almost everything - bring some parts out of the case, or hide everything in one box, and attach a handle on top for ease of transportation.
  • You can install a fan on a homemade compressor so that it cools the device from the outside.

See also: We review valve control cabinets

Most refrigeration compressors have some limitations in terms of their work. There are several modes in total:

  • Normal - 16 to 32 C.
  • Subnormal - 10 to 32 C.
  • Tropical - from 18 to 43 C.
  • Subtropical - from 18 to 38 C.

However, combined modes are more common, having a different range.

Thus, a homemade compressor can be much more efficient than factory, in terms of working with air.

In the video, a version of a home-made compressor for pumping wheels

Dismantling works

To make a homemade compressor from the refrigerator, you need to make initial preparations. It consists in certain dismantling works, i.e.

we just need to remove the compressor from the refrigerator itself. It is located behind the refrigerator, in its lower part.

To remove, we need an elementary set of tools: pliers, box wrenches and two screwdrivers (plus and minus).

The compressor is located between the tubes that are connected to the cooling system. These tubes must be cut off with pliers, but in no case should they be sawn off with a hacksaw. The fact is that with this method, small chips are inevitably formed, which can get inside the compensator.

Then we proceed to the removal of the starting relay - this is an ordinary black box, with wires sticking out of it. We unscrew the fasteners, then we bite the wires that lead to the plug. We must not forget to mark the top and bottom of the starting relay - this will come in handy in the future. By the way, we also pick up all the fasteners along with the unit itself.

Health check

After we removed the compressor, it is necessary check its performance.

The fact is that we are removing the device from an old refrigerator, so we need to make sure that our unit is still “alive”.

So, we flatten the tubes with pliers - this is necessary in order for air flow to pass through them. Next, we need to put the starting relay in the position in which it stood in the design of the refrigerator.

This is very important, because if the position is incorrect, there is a risk of damage to the device, as well as failure of the compressor winding.

Also Read: Leader Voltage Stabilizer Review

There are wires on the relay case to which you need to fasten a piece of wire with a plug. It is better to wrap the junction with electrical tape to eliminate the risk of electric shock. Plug in the device. If you did everything right, then the compressor will work, and air will come out of its tubes. By the way, it is necessary to mark which tube the air flow comes out of, and which one it goes into.

Step-by-step instruction

Before you start making your own, you need to make sure that you have all the necessary materials and tools.

We offer you to watch a video with a detailed description of the process of one of the manufacturing options

In addition to the compressor itself, which we previously removed from the refrigerator, we need:

  • Receiver. In this case, you can use the body of an old fire extinguisher, or weld the body of sheet metal and pipe.
  • Various hoses. At the same time, the length of one hose must be at least 600 mm, and the other two - about 100 mm. In this case, you can take the hoses from the car.
  • Various consumables - gasoline and diesel filters, wire, clamps, pressure gauge and epoxy.
  • Related tools, i.e. screwdrivers, pliers, drills, etc.
  • In addition, we need an ordinary wooden board, which will be the basis of the whole structure. We attach the compressor to it using ordinary screws. Fastening should be carried out exactly in the same position that he occupied in the design of the refrigerator.

We take any plastic container of a suitable volume (from 3 liters or more). In the upper part, you need to drill a couple of holes for the size of the outlet tubes.

We insert the tubes, after which we fill everything with epoxy. The inlet tube, into which air enters, must be located in such a way that there is about 200 mm from its end to the bottom of the receiver.

The outlet tube must be immersed ten centimeters inward.

This is a description of a plastic receiver, but for greater tightness, it is best to make a receiver in an iron case. In this case, there is no need to fill everything with resin, and the hoses are simply welded. In addition, only a pressure gauge can be installed on an iron receiver.

To install it, you need to drill a hole for the nut on the receiver case. We insert it, and then brew it. Only then we screw the pressure gauge into this nut, after which the work is completed. Now we attach the receiver to our base with a wire. The scheme will be something like this:

Our homemade unit is almost ready.

There are quite a lot of photos and videos of its work on the Internet, for example, it is shown how it is used in airbrushing and for painting various spare parts, so the expediency of its manufacture is quite obvious. Finally, we need to add a few extra touches to our device.

See also: We make a semi-automatic welding machine with our own hands

It is necessary to take one of the hoses, which is ten centimeters long, and put it on the filter. If this is difficult, you can slightly heat the end of the hose to make it easier to put on the fitting. We put the second end of the hose on the inlet of our device. In this case, the filter will protect against dust entering the case.

The second 10 cm hose must be connected to the inlet of the receiver and the outlet of the compressor. In this case, it is better to tighten the joints with clamps. Our third hose must be put on the diesel filter, and the other end must be inserted into the outlet of the receiver.

At the same time, the free filter fitting will later be connected to various equipment for airbrushing, a spray gun for painting, etc.

Another video on the topic

Some technical data and service features

It is rather difficult to say unambiguously what kind of pressure this or that compressor will show. Much depends on the specific brand and the operational life of the device itself. By the way, old units show even higher performance than modern ones.

Maintenance of our homemade device is a very important point in operation.

The main work will be to replace diesel and gasoline filters, as well as to change the oil in the device. The design of the compressors is present, as a rule, three copper tubes.

We used two of them earlier, and the third remained untouched. It is the shortest and soldered at the end. So, the oil is drained through it.

To do this, it is necessary to cut off the soldered part, and then drain the processing. Filling is done through it.

Does the compressor need to be repaired?

As for the repair of the resulting device, then here everyone decides for himself- whether it makes sense to mess with it or not.

The repair will consist of ringing the relay, as well as changing the oil in the device.

If the manipulations did not help, then there is absolutely no need to invent something else. It is best to throw out the used device, and then make a new one. Moreover, the issue price is no more than 1000-1500 rubles.

Conclusion

In principle, we figured out how to make a compressor from a refrigerator.

It is difficult to overestimate the expediency of its manufacture, because with the help of this device it is possible to perform various works on airbrushing, tire inflation, painting various components and other works that require pressure force.

An additional advantage is that such a device can be used at home, because it makes little noise. In fact, this is the same refrigerator, only without unnecessary body parts.

DIY Compressor From Chainsaw

Chainsaw sawmill. How to make a sawmill chainsaws with their own hands

Wood is perhaps the most common building material today. Long gone are the days when the process of building a house was carried out using the simplest tools.

At the moment, to perform this kind of work, new technologies and the most modern equipment are used, including a sawmill, with the help of which the tree species is processed to a suitable size. Unfortunately, this tool is not easily accessible to ordinary Russians, because it costs hundreds of thousands of rubles.

But there is a way out of this situation - the construction of a home-made sawmill. Find out how this happens in our current article.

Why is it more profitable to make a sawmill from a chainsaw?

In general chainsaw- this is a unique device, because on its basis you can actually make any tool, from a homemade lawn mower to snowmobiles. In our case, the introduction of this device allows us to design a suitable element with little or no involvement of any additional parts and assemblies.

Judge for yourself - we already have the engine, while together with the gas tank, the frame is also located, and even the chain remains in working order. We will not change or re-equip any of the above. The only thing we will need to do is an iron canopy that will be attached to the saw body.

You can see the approximate design of such an apparatus in the following photo.

You see, homemade sawmills from a chainsaw are actually no different from a real saw. In other words, the effort and foreign exchange costs required to perform this operation are small. This is the whole advantage of using this tool as a sawmill.

How to make a sawmill from a chainsaw?

To create such a device, you need to have two channels measuring 150 ... 180 x 8000 mm (height and length, respectively).

Apart from this, in the work you will need several corners of 50 x 100 mm and two rails. The latter must be turned upside down.

When developing a base for a sawmill, several holes of 14-18 mm each should be drilled in it. The interval between them should be approximately 1-1.2 meters.

Also in the work you will need screeds. They can be made from an ordinary water pipe 250 mm long. Bolts should be used as connecting parts, not welding. Racks are made from rectangles, on which the base of the sawmill is then fixed.

By the way, in the manufacture of the base it is unacceptable to use deformed elements. All parts must have a strictly even shape. As for the distance between the racks, they should be placed to the end of the base with an interval of 80-100 cm.

Additionally, you can weld the braces between them so that the structure seems stronger.

Super compressor 3

DVS from friendship, head from Chinese compressor, motor from starter Honda 1 kW.

Compressor| Inflating tires with a chainsaw

DIY compressor.

What to do next?

At the next stage, the chainsaw sawmill is equipped with a movable trolley. It will be based on a steel plate measuring 600 x 50 millimeters. A metal corner of 40 x 40 millimeters should be welded to it from below. Then the trolley must be placed on bearings or rollers. Also weld 2 corners to its upper part. It attaches itself to the latter chainsaw.

At the final stage, a structure is made to fix the log. What do I need to do? Here you will need a metal tube with a diameter of 35-40 millimeters.

Also, in the course of work, it is necessary to use a movable hose, which will be located with subsequent fixing at the desired height. In this case, the height value should not exceed the length of the pipe itself.

So, our homemade sawmill do it yourself done successfully. You can safely proceed to its operation and process wood of almost any diameter.

How to make a sawmill out of a chainsaw? Method number 2

Here is another method for making a sawmill at home. In principle, this option for creating a cutting device does not differ much from the previous one - the drawing and tools for work will be the same as in the first case. However, this sawmill manufacturing technology will be more refined.

How a sawmill is made chainsaws with their own hands in this case? On the drawing, you will need to indicate 4 main elements. This is a saw, its drive, a mechanism by which the thickness of the resulting board is regulated, as well as an element that allows you to move the saw part of the structure.

You should also indicate the layout of the device for fixing the log.

How is a saw and its drive made?

There is nothing complicated here. Since a sawmill is being made from a chainsaw, all these elements, including the motor, will already be ready with us. Therefore, all that is required of you is a working saw with cutting teeth and a working engine, which, in principle, is present in the design of this tool.

Now about how to make a mechanism for adjusting the thickness of the board.

The sawing of the log at the sawmill itself occurs by lowering or raising the base of the device, which is held on 4 screws or welded to the plate with nuts whose edges are bent.

There is a lock nut at the top of the base. It is tightened after the chainsaw sawmill is set up. We adjust to the appropriate thickness of the processed log.

In this case, a distance of 50-55 centimeters must be observed between these elements. 2 rollers are welded to each rack, the upper one rests on the guide corner, and the lower one keeps the sawmill from lifting.

If it is not possible to use rollers, 20 mm bearings can be used.

A device that fixes a log on a sawmill

The wood on this tool is fixed with the help of two combs, one of which moves with a screw, and the second remains motionless.

After installing the log, the first movable element is fixed in a stationary state with several screws.

After installing the fixing device, you can safely start operating the sawmill and process the first wooden blanks.

And finally

We note a few rules for operating a homemade sawmill:

  • From time to time, lubricate and sharpen the tool chain, since the quality and speed of your work depends on these factors.
  • Before fixing the log or board, make sure that there are no foreign metal objects (nails, screws, etc.) in it, except for those that were nailed when fixing the device to the wood. The teeth that have fallen on the surface of such parts become dull in an instant, and it is possible that such a chain will only need to be replaced.
  • Never remove the product from the sawmill before the engine is turned off. Otherwise, injury to the operator and damage to the device are simply inevitable.
  • Do-it-yourself vacuum pump from a refrigerator compressor

    The branded vacuum pump is, without a doubt, efficient and extremely convenient to use. But it has one small drawback: a few numbers on the price tag and not a single comma between them.

    This unpleasant circumstance encourages craftsmen to look for ways to independently manufacture this device from what they say is God sent.

    After learning how to make a vacuum pump from a compressor from a refrigerator, you may want to try your hand, eventually receiving a reward for your work in the form of saved money.

    Materials and tools

    In the course of work, the homemade master will need the following:

    • hacksaw for metal;
    • pliers;
    • soldering iron;
    • welding machine.

    In addition to the compressor from the refrigerator, you will need to get:

    • oil-resistant tubes (can be bought at the car market);
    • brass foil;
    • piece of linoleum

    You will also need a steel corner 25x25 mm.

    Do-it-yourself vacuum pump from a refrigerator compressor

    The manufacturing process is as follows:

  • We cut off the upper part of the compressor with a hacksaw.
  • Next, you need to remove the motor from the housing, which is suspended inside on several springs. No tools are needed for this - the motor is not fixed.
  • The copper tubes that remain in the housing must be connected with oil-resistant tubes to the plus and minus lines on the motor. Unnecessary elements from the motor can be cut off so as not to interfere.
  • The opened case must be provided with a lid. Oil will fall on it and in order for it to drain into the container, the edges of the lid must be inside it. The sawn-off fragment does not meet this condition, therefore it cannot be used. It is recommended to make a cover with suitable dimensions from brass foil using a soldering iron. From the inside, it should be provided with stiffeners, and from the outside - pasted over with linoleum for sound insulation. Just in case, a breather can be mounted in the cover, but this element is not mandatory: if all connections between the tubes are made very carefully to prevent leaks, the pressure inside will remain at atmospheric level.
  • When the compressor is running, some of the oil is invariably lost in the form of oil mist, which is thrown into the discharge line. The easiest way to monitor its amount is with a tubular level gauge - a transparent tube located outside, which communicates with the container through a hose. As such a tube, you can use a case from a ballpoint pen.

    refrigerator compressor motor

    From above it must be covered from dust with a cap, but so that air can freely flow into the closed hole. To make it more convenient to use the level gauge, two horizontal marks must be scratched on it, corresponding to the minimum and maximum oil levels.

    The place where the hose is attached to the tube is best sealed with a sealant.

    The finished structure should be placed in a box, the frame of which can be made of a steel equal-shelf angle with a shelf width of 25 mm. Any sheet material can be used for the role of sheathing.

    So that the vacuum pump does not have to be removed from the box to take readings from the oil level gauge, a door with some simple latch can be installed in the side wall of the latter.

    Next steps:

  • An air filter must be connected to the suction pipe of a homemade vacuum pump. An automobile one is suitable, for example, the FT-206 brand. A pressure gauge can be connected to the same line through a tee, which will display the degree of vacuum.
  • An air filter with an oil trapping function must be connected to the discharge pipe. A product of the FV-6 brand, which is still produced today, will do. Its throughput of 100 l / min will be enough. The filter is equipped with a stopper, by unscrewing which you can drain the oil it has retained.
  • If the pump is also intended to be used as a compressor, a pressure gauge must be installed in the discharge line after the oil trap. The developed pressure can reach 6 atm, so the appropriate pressure gauge should be selected.
  • At the time of starting the engine of the pump-compressor, there must be no excess pressure in the discharge line. This requirement is due to the features of the starting circuit.

    When starting, the current arising in the working winding turns on the electromagnet in the starting relay, which attracts the core with the contacts. The contacts close, supplying current to the starting winding.

    In normal mode, the motor should spin up quickly, as a result of which the current in the working winding will drop and the electromagnet will “release” the core, opening the starting winding circuit.

    If the motor encounters resistance in the form of pressure in the discharge line while trying to spin up, the starting winding will be under load for too long and eventually burn out.

    To prevent this phenomenon, it is recommended to install a check valve on the discharge line, and an electro-pneumatic valve in front of it. The latter must be included in the motor circuit: when the unit is not running, it will be open, and at the moment the engine is turned on, it will close.

    Homemade vacuum pump

    If the compressor is to be used for purge only, for example, these precautions are not necessary. But if it is supposed to connect a receiver or some other device that accumulates pressure to it, then a check valve with an electro-pneumatic valve must be installed.

    The following point should also be taken into account: when the electromagnet in the starting relay is turned off, the core falls under its own weight, therefore it is not allowed to install it upside down or on its side.

    It remains to connect the electricity through the fuse - and the vacuum pump is ready.

    Exploitation

    It is most convenient to place a home-made vacuum pump under the table, so that only the suction and discharge tubes from it lie on the table.

    With such an arrangement, it is advisable to build in a pedal into the electrical circuit of the unit, by pressing which it will be turned on. The vacuum gauge is also best placed on a table.

    Since it is not very convenient to use an oil level gauge if the vacuum pump is placed under the table due to lack of illumination, it is possible to additionally equip the device with a backlight.

    Using a homemade vacuum pump, you can not only evacuate air from food storage containers, but also make various products from two-component silicone rubber by vacuuming. True, it should be noted that this unit will not cope with too thick material, for example, Viksint.

    Related video

    Do-it-yourself compressor - at minimal cost from scrap metal

    The use of the compressor when performing various works in the workshop or garage is undeniable. This unit has long ceased to be the property of construction teams and departmental fleets.

    Here is a superficial list of what can be done with a compressor:

    • Painting work
    • Sandblasting any materials
    • Purging of debris from hard-to-reach cavities of units
    • Territory cleaning
    • Tire fitting
    • Working with pneumatic tools.

    An air compressor can be purchased at the store. Moreover, kits of any power and performance are offered.

    However, such equipment is not cheap: if you do not plan to make a profit from it - buying just to facilitate manual labor may seem inappropriate. Therefore, many home craftsmen try to make a compressor with their own hands.

    The easiest (and relatively safe) homemade compressor can be built from a common car accessory. We are talking about a ready-made electrical appliance - a compressor for pumping wheels.

    It would seem, where to apply it, except for its intended purpose? Design features do not allow large volumes of air to be supplied per unit of time.

    This option deserves a separate explanation:

    The compressor has two important characteristics:

    Power

    The ability to create high pressure without additional load on the engine.

    Automotive units have a complete order with this. You can safely build up pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres. True, pumping up a wheel to a typical 2.5-3 units takes a good ten minutes (at zero initial pressure). During this time, inexpensive devices can simply overheat, so interruptions are required.

    This is due to the low performance of automotive compressors.

    Performance

    The ability to give out "uphill" a certain volume of air per unit of time. The higher it is, the faster the container is filled, and the more intense the flow from the nozzle with the direct use of compressed air.

    To combine these qualities, a large volume of the piston group of the unit is required, and a powerful engine with high speeds. Plus, it is necessary to ensure the cooling of the cylinders, otherwise the compressor will overheat and jam. Such devices exist, even turbines can be used as a working unit.

    But the cost of the equipment does not allow it to be used in large quantities, especially in everyday life.

    Simply put either power or performance. How to get out of the vicious circle? Use storage capacity - receiver. In industrial designs, this is a steel cylinder, which is slowly filled with a powerful, but not very productive compressor.

    Homemade low-power compressor from an electric motor from a toy. A simple solution to a pressing problem. Such a compressor is quite suitable for supplying air to the aquarium. How to do it yourself step by step in this video.

    When sufficient pressure is created, a sufficiently large volume of air can be delivered from the receiver in a short time. Then you need to wait until the compressor restores pressure.
    This is how all units work., including those installed on vehicles with air brakes.

    Our "kulibins" have long learned to create a semblance of industrial plants using an autocompressor.

    We take a spare wheel, with the help of our beloved Berkut we fill 3-4 atmospheres (the main thing is that the tire does not burst), and the high-pressure paint sprayer is ready.

    The same device is used to purge when servicing the motor or suspension. Only instead of a spray gun, a blow gun is used.

    Automation is not required, it is enough to manually control the pressure using the built-in pressure gauge. Of course, you cannot run a pneumatic tool with such a unit, and a sandblasting machine will not work out of a wheel.

    Air compressor from a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder

    In the presence of a powerful auto-compressor for pumping wheels(for the sake of such a case, you can buy it), you can easily make a full-fledged air unit of medium power. It is enough to purchase an old carbon dioxide fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder, and connect it to the finished "rocking chair".

    There are nuances that must be observed:

  • Donor container should not have corrosive and mechanical damage.
  • The pressure margin should be 100% of the planned one. That is, if you expect to “stuff” it up to 5 atmospheres, then the guaranteed passport strength must withstand at least 10 atmospheres
  • It is necessary to install a sensor with an emergency switch. When the pressure reaches the nominal value, the compressor will turn off.
  • As a last resort, install a mechanical pressure relief valve. And of course, the system must have an autonomous pressure gauge (in addition to the one installed on the compressor)
  • The design must be stable, it is useful to make a steel crate in case of a receiver rupture
  • If you rarely use the built unit, do not leave high pressure for a long time. Enough 0.5 atmospheres to maintain tightness.
  • How to make a complete compressor with your own hands

    The option of auto accessories is good for its availability. However, power, performance, and most importantly - the duration of continuous operation, leave much to be desired. There is a proven option - a compressor from the refrigerator. The cost part depends on your ability to find shareware components.

    And I must say, the unit turns out no worse than the factory one.

    And so, what is required for manufacturing. An exhaustive list that takes into account all the nuances. It can be shortened except for the security elements:

      • Compressor from a household refrigerator (shareware)
      • Receiver tank: it can be a fire extinguisher, a gas cylinder, or a home-made one, welded from a thick-walled pipe and sheet iron. The latter option is convenient in terms of the placement of reinforcement, but the issue of welding reliability is very important. The cost is also going to zero.
      • Air fittings: tubes, hoses, fittings, tees, pneumo inlets
      • Operating pressure regulator (reducer)
      • Pressure gauge (in the presence of a reducer = 2 pcs)
      • Inlet air filters (for the safety of the compressor piston group)
      • Oil or moisture separator at the outlet (relevant for compressors with "wet" lubrication)
      • Pressure switch (controls compressor operation)
      • Emergency valve (required for any configuration!)

    The block diagram is shown in the illustration:

    In principle, this "constructor" is not difficult to assemble. There are nuances when connecting the compressor from the refrigerator.

    Quite rare are the so-called. "dry" piston groups - with graphite seals without the use of lubricants. If you get such a copy - consider yourself lucky. In other cases, the compressor is literally filled with oil.

    This is not a problem for freon, but in clean air for work, drops of lubricant are useless. Therefore, the receiver first acts as an oil separator, which is equipped with a drain plug, and a specialized filter. It is not worth recalling the tightness of all connections, and so everything is clear. A complete silent compressor from the refrigerator with your own hands, video instruction.

    Such a unit will quite cope with tire fitting, painting, blowing, and even with ensuring the operation of pneumatic tools. True, with intensive air consumption, you will often have to stop to restore pressure. If you need more power, there are more productive designs.

    DIY high pressure compressor

    If the crankshaft of an internal combustion engine is driven by pressure from the combustion of the fuel mixture, why not run the process in reverse?

    Using an internal combustion engine as a compressor is not just possible. You get a productive and powerful unit, and the piston group has a good margin of safety. The main question is which drive to use. Considering the total energy intensity, an electric motor with a power of at least 3 kW is suitable.

    do-it-yourself high-pressure compressor from a car engine

    If desired, you can find such a unit in good condition for a reasonable price. Well, it’s not a problem to get a live engine from the Zhiguli at all. The gearbox is not needed, as is the starter group. The ignition, intake and exhaust system is also removed.

    For a homemade compressor to work, a lubrication system, cooling system, and a sealed piston group are enough. The timing is not involved in the process, the camshaft can be dismantled along with the belt. We do not touch the exhaust valves, we just check the tightness. But on the inlet it is necessary to install weaker springs.

    The valves must freely supply air to the pistons.

    Pressure builds up through spark plug wells. Fittings with ball valves working for release are screwed into them. Four branch pipes are combined into a ramp, and a common pipeline supplies compressed air to the receiver. Of course, the capacity must be appropriate. Such a compressor is capable of pressure of tens of atmospheres.

    If you are serious and you have an old engine from a car, for example, from a VAZ 2108 like in this video, then after watching the detailed assembly instructions you can assemble your homemade compressor from an internal combustion engine.

    Outcome:
    Depending on the needs and financial possibilities, you can assemble a unit of any level of complexity and performance. Space technologies are not used, however, design safety issues come first.

    Do-it-yourself compressor - at minimal cost from scrap metal Link to the main publication

    How to assemble a compressor from a motor from an old refrigerator with your own hands

    Compressor for airbrushing from the refrigerator motor»\u003e If you do everything right and take care of depreciation, then there will be almost no noise at all.

    For those who like to make something with their own hands, and this usually happens at night, this moment is extremely important.

    parts for modeling and other hobbies that are usually taken up after the main work. Therefore, noise limits are very important.

    The design of the compressor from the refrigerator is extremely simple. A container for pressure equalization is attached to the compressor from the refrigerator, since direct blowing is not stable. This container acts as a receiver, an air flow mixer.

    What is required to make a compressor with your own hands and where can you buy all this?

  • Refrigerator compressor. You can unscrew from your old one, you can buy it at a repair shop that deals with refrigerators. In order not to be confused, let us explain that the refrigerator motor is the compressor.
  • Sealed container that holds pressure well. Receiver.

    Many use cylinders from fire extinguishers, but there are also plastic containers that are quite resistant to stress. It is important that the container is large enough to mix the air and equalize the pressure from the refrigerator compressor. You can make a receiver from a suitable plastic container from garden sprayers.

    If the container is plastic, you will need epoxy for fasteners.

  • Start relay. You can take from the same refrigerator or buy. But usually the motor and the relay are together, it is from the relay that the power cord with the plug comes.
  • Petrol filter, diesel filter.
  • Pressure gauge. Sold in a plumbing store.

    Not required, but desirable. Mounted on a metal receiver.

  • FUM tape for connections.
  • Three pieces of fuel hose. 2 for 10 centimeters and 1 for about 70.
  • A hose that will remove air.

    You can attach a regular hose from an airbrush or a thicker hose if the equipment will be used for painting cars.

  • Clamps, fasteners, electrical tape.
  • Some hands-on experience is desirable.

    Manufacturing process

    Most of the fuss will be with the receiver. If you use an old fire extinguisher as a receiver, be prepared for the fact that there will be quite a lot of metal work. In addition, it will be necessary to ensure tightness. If we do not have significant experience in working with metal with our own hands, it is better to take a plastic receiver.

    In the case of using heavy parts, you should mentally prepare for the fact that the compressor will turn out to be stationary. It is better to immediately prepare a reliable base and fasteners for it.

    Compressor preparation

    Determine where the compressor has a tube for the incoming air flow, and where is the outgoing one. To do this, you can briefly turn on the compressor in the socket and determine from which tube the air is blowing. Be sure to mark the tubes at the base so as not to confuse. This can be done with colored tape or a piece of medical plaster.

    Carefully cut the tubes to about 10cm. This is necessary for the convenience of connecting hoses.

    The vertical position is important for the compressor. The relay housing has an arrow pointing up.

    It will be convenient if we fix the compressor in the correct position.

    Receiver

    Consider a simplified version with a plastic canister. We cut two holes in the lid for the tubes. The inlet tube must be made long, almost to the bottom. Outgoing can be made short, about 10 cm.

    Small pieces of about 2-3 cm remain outside. The structure should be fixed with epoxy to ensure tightness. In the case of an old fire extinguisher, the same actions will have to be done by soldering and welding fittings.

    But on the metal case you can install a pressure gauge.

    Connection of parts

    Attach a gasoline filter to a short piece of fuel hose. Put the other end on the inlet tube of the compressor. The filter is needed so that dust does not fall into the compressor.

    Connect the compressor output pipe and the receiver inlet tank with the second piece of fuel hose. The air flow will go from the compressor to the receiver. We put clamps on the hoses, since the air is under pressure. Another short length of fuel hose is needed in order to secure the diesel filter. The filter is needed to clean the air flow.

    A hose and equipment can be attached to the outlet fitting.

    Compressor maintenance

    Transformer or engine oil in the compressor must be changed periodically. It is advisable to change the gasoline filter about once every six months. Replacing the filter is a common maintenance, understandable to any motorist. All maintenance can be done by hand.

    How to change oil

    Examine the motor. A sealed tube should come out of the refrigerator compressor. Carefully cut off and drain the oil from the motor. Usually there is about a glass of it.

    However, if you purchased the compressor in the workshop, the oil is most likely already drained. Using a syringe, you need to pump in new oil and take care of how to close the hole.

    It will be most convenient to glue the outer thread with FUM tape and make a screw cap.

    Compressor application

    Mainly used for painting

    • For airbrush painting. Airbrushing allows you to draw fine details and apply artistic images.
    • For painting auto parts through a sprayer
    • For quick painting during repairs. To do this, you need to attach wheels to the compressor platform, like a vacuum cleaner. The accuracy of painting with a compressor is much higher, it is used in elite interior design.

    How to make a compressor from the refrigerator with your own hands

    A small-sized compressor is a very necessary thing for a garage or personal workshop. It is used to solve many problems.

    For painting with a spray gun and applying a layer of glue on large surfaces, for art work with an airbrush, for blowing dust from a workplace or simply for inflating tires ...

    At the same time, the need for this unit for many is not one-time, but episodic. Therefore, if you, for example, are not an airbrush artist, buying an industrial compress is simply unprofitable.

    However, having certain master skills, it is easy to make such a device yourself. In this article we will tell you how to make a master compressor from a refrigerator.

    For every end there are means

    There are many examples of such artefacts of technical creativity. It is enough to type the appropriate request and look at the photos on the Internet. To build a compressor from a refrigerator with your own hands, you must first understand what all these designs have in common.

    What are the design elements and why do they contain? Of course, the question of whether or not you possess the necessary artisan skills is not even discussed here. Of course you have!

    All these structural elements can be very conditionally divided into basic and additional. "Conditionally" - because it all depends on the purposes for which you will use the compressor.

    If it's just to inflate the tires of a car, then practically only one compressor is enough. Although in this case it must be fixed on some basis.

    Perhaps it is better to install this base on wheels in order to more conveniently move the compressor around the garage. It will need to be equipped with inlet and outlet pipes, air filters on them.

    It is necessary to put a pressure gauge at the outlet and consider a reliable fastening of the air hose.

    Important! But if you work with an airbrush, then the most important thing for you is the stability of the air flow. Therefore, you will inevitably have to install a receiver in the system.

    The receiver is, roughly speaking, a cylinder into which air is supplied from the compressor. And already from this cylinder it is consumed as needed.

    Here you already need to clearly understand what air pressure you are going to work with. The working pressure of the compressor of a typical refrigerator is 15-20 atmospheres. Although it’s better to clarify according to the documents for the unit ... 3 atmospheres are enough to inflate tires.

    Interesting! To solve most other problems, 6-8 atmospheres are enough.

    Unless you are going to work with some particularly powerful pneumatic tool. But in this case, for example, for a jackhammer, even 20 atmospheres may not be enough.

    That is, when installing a receiver in the system, you need to think about two things:

  • What pressure rating is it designed for? Of course, the maximum pressure must be higher than the working one! For example, a receiver from a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher cylinder was originally designed for the highest working pressure of 15 MPa or 148.04 atmospheres. For a powder fire extinguisher cylinder, for example OP-8, this will be 15.79 atmospheres. At the same pressure, a receiver from a cylinder for domestic liquefied gas can also work. And the receiver from the KAMAZ brake system operates at 16 atmospheres. These are proven options. It is more difficult with home-made or theoretically not designed to work at elevated pressure containers.
  • How will the receiver be protected from excess pressure in it? There are two options here. The first is the release of excess pressure into the surrounding atmosphere using a bypass valve. The second is the automatic shutdown of the compressor.
  • These are all the main points that you need to think about when thinking about how to make a compressor.

    In order not to "everything like clockwork" ...

    The main difference between a refrigerator compressor and industrial compressors is that it was originally designed to work in a closed system. Therefore, he is literally bathed in oil!

    Oil is mixed with freon, freon with oil, then separated, then mixed again ... That is, the lubrication system in the refrigerator compressor is in no way isolated from the flow of the main reagent that this compressor pumps!

    Therefore, when you start pumping air with this compressor, oil will inevitably splash out of the outlet pipe. The first thing to do is to make this pipe in the shape of an inverted letter "G".

    At the top, in front of the second L-shaped bend, behind which the receiver is located, an oil filter is installed.

    In it, just below the middle, a conical plate directed upwards is installed. Gaps are left between the plate and the chamber walls. The air flow from the compressor, entering the chamber from below, is decelerated on the conical plate and the oil drops that it carries with it roll back down.

    Important! Although it must be understood that the microparticles of oil and moisture in this air flow still remain. Therefore, first of all, do not even think about “filling” air into scuba cylinders with this compressor!

    And secondly, the receiver will be gradually filled at the bottom with oil-water condensate. In order not to unwind the entire system each time to clean it, it is better to provide a drain hole in the bottom of your supposedly fire extinguisher.

    Next is a matter of fantasy

    Anyone who has ever ridden a moped or motorcycle “for power” without an air filter knows what deep scratches this seemingly “clean air” leaves on piston skirts and cylinder walls.

    Therefore, when thinking about how to make a compressor with your own hands, you must inevitably think about the air filter at the inlet. It is enough to make an inlet pipe for the inner diameter of the car air filter.

    It must be done in the form of the same inverted letter "L" to avoid splashing oil out. Of course, it is also necessary to make a seal in order to exclude air leakage from below. Surely there is something suitable for this in the corner of your garage?

    ... So, let's trace the path of air through the compressor we are creating. Through the air filter from the car and the inlet pipe, air enters the "pump".

    Coming out through another pipe already under pressure, the air gets rid of oil dust in the oil separator and oil filter. The air then enters the receiver.

    It should be noted that the air must pass through the receiver in order to dampen pressure surges. Therefore, if you simply screw a tee into the neck of your fire extinguisher - into the inlet, outlet and pressure gauge - this will not give any result.

    Ideally, this scheme looks like this. Air enters almost to the bottom of your fire extinguisher through one of the two, longer tubes - and exits through the second, shorter one. Between the inlet and outlet is a third, which has a pressure gauge screwed into it to show the air pressure in your fire extinguisher.

    In parallel with the pressure gauge, a bypass valve or relay is included in the circuit. There are also pressure gauges that combine the relay option. Further, from the outlet pipe of the receiver, air enters a hose that can withstand a pressure of 6 - 8 atmospheres for use.

    With a frequent change of the tool connected to the compressor, it is reasonable to install a special pneumatic lock-connector at the end of the hose. It allows you to connect and disconnect the tool with one simple movement of your fingers.

    Interesting! If you work every time with only one thing, then you can get by with an ordinary ball valve in front of the hose. In the same way - convenient, useful, but not included in the "required package" - the second pressure gauge showing the pressure in the hose.

    As already mentioned, this is the required level of configuration. These are the tasks that must be solved if you decide to build a compressor for your workshop yourself. Further - it is only a matter of the master's imagination.

    You can, for example, install a cooler for cooling. It's no secret that air heats up when compressed. You can, instead of an air car filter at the inlet, put a water one, according to the principle of a hookah.

    You can install two in series - instead of one receiver. Or make a salt filter, dehumidify the outgoing air ... For each purpose - its own means.

    Recently, compressors have gained popularity among tinkerers. They are made on the basis of almost any engine, calculating the power of the base unit depending on the number of consumers. For home workshops, do-it-yourself self-made compressor units are in demand.
    Compressors from refrigerators often remain operational after the breakdown or obsolescence of the refrigerator itself. They are weak, but unpretentious in work. And many masters make quite worthy home-made installations from them. Let's see how we can do it ourselves.

    Details and materials

    Required details:
    • 11 kg propane tank;
    • 1/2" Female Coupling with Plug;
    • Metal plates, width - 3-4 cm, thickness - 2-4 mm;
    • Two wheels with mounting platform;
    • Refrigeration compressor from the refrigerator;
    • 1/4" adapter;
    • Brass check valve connector;
    • ¼ inch copper pipe connector - 2 pcs;
    • Compressor pressure control equipment;
    • Bolts, screws, nuts, fumlenta.
    Tools:
    • welding inverter;
    • Screwdriver or drill;
    • Milling cutters for metal with titanium coating;
    • Turbine or drill with abrasive nozzles;
    • Metal brush;
    • Roller for copper tubes;
    • Adjustable wrenches, pliers.

      Assembling the compressor

      Step one - prepare the receiver

      Rinse an empty propane tank thoroughly with water. It is very important to remove all residues of the explosive gas mixture in this way.



      In the end hole of the cylinder, we overlap the adapter by 1/4 inch. We scald it from all sides by welding, and muffle it with a screw.




      We put the receiver on wheels and support. To do this, we take pieces of metal plates, bend them at an angle and weld them onto the body from the bottom side. We weld wheels with a mounting platform to the corners. In front of the receiver we mount the support bracket.



      Step two - mount the compressor

      On top of the receiver, we expose the mounting frames for the compressor from metal plates. We check their position with a bubble level, and scald. We sit the compressor on the clamping bolts through rubber shock-absorbing pads. For this type of compressor, only one outlet will be involved, through which air is forced into the receiver. The other two, sucking in air, will remain intact.



      Step three - we fix the check valve and the adapter to the equipment

      We select a cutter for metal that is suitable for the diameter, and make a hole in the housing for the coupling with a screwdriver or drill. If there are protruding forms on the coupling body, we grind them with a drill (you can use a regular electric emery or a grinder with a grinding disk for this).



      We expose the coupling into the hole and scald it around the circumference. Its internal thread must correspond in pitch and diameter to the seat thread on the check valve.



      We use a brass check valve for small compressors. We plug the pressure relief outlet with a suitable bolt, since a bleed valve is already provided on the adjusting assembly.




      To install a pressure switch or pressure switch with all the control equipment, we mount another 1/4 inch adapter. We make a hole for it in the center of the receiver, not far from the compressor.




      We twist the check valve with an adapter 1/2 inch.




      We connect the outlet of the compressor cylinder and the check valve with a copper tube. To do this, we flare the ends of the copper tubes with a special tool, and connect them with brass threaded adapters. We tighten the connection with adjustable wrenches.




      Step four - install the control equipment

      The control equipment assembly consists of a pressure switch (pressure switch) with a control sensor, a safety valve or a pressure relief valve, an adapter-coupling with an external thread and several taps and pressure gauges.


      First of all, we mount the pressure switch. It must be slightly raised to the level of the compressor. We use an extension-coupling with an external thread, and we twist the relay through the sealing tape.



      Through the adapter, we install a pressure control sensor with pressure gauges. We complete the assembly with a pressure relief valve and two taps for the hose outlets.





      Step five - connect the electrician

      We disassemble the pressure switch housing with a screwdriver, opening access to the contacts. We bring a 3-core cable to the contact group, and distribute each of the wires according to the connection diagram (including grounding).






      Similarly, we make the supply cable, equipped with a plug for a power outlet. Screw the relay cover back into place.


      Step Six - Refinement and Trial Run

      To carry the compressor unit, we attach a special handle to the compressor frames. We make it from scraps of a profile square and round pipe. We fasten it to the clamping bolts and paint it in the color of the compressor.



      We connect the installation to a 220 V network, and check its performance. According to the author, to obtain a pressure of 90 psi or 6 atm, this compressor needs 10 minutes. With the help of an adjusting sensor, the inclusion of the compressor after a pressure drop is also regulated from a certain indicator displayed on the pressure gauge. In my case, the author set up the installation so that the compressor turns on again from 60 psi or 4 atm.




      The last step is to change the oil. This is an important part of the maintenance of such installations, because they do not provide an inspection window. And without oil, such machines can work for a very short time.
      We unscrew the drain bolt at the bottom of the compressor, and drain the waste into a bottle. Turning the compressor on its side, fill in a little clean oil, and screw the plug back on. Now everything is in order, you can use our compressor unit!

    An air compressor is a device that sprays paint. It is commonly used in workshops and garages for car painting or wheel inflation. You can buy such equipment in a specialized store or make it yourself. Unlike factory models, DIY equipment can be more efficient and last much longer. In addition, in terms of financial costs, self-production will be cheaper.

    Using an accessory from a car, you can make a compressor of a simple design. This is a finished electrical appliance - wheel inflation machine. The compressor has two positive properties:

    • Power. The device is able to create high pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres, without unnecessary load on the engine. This is the main advantage of automotive devices. But it will take about 10 minutes to pump the wheels. Therefore, work is done intermittently, otherwise cheap devices may overheat during this time. The reason is the low performance of automotive compressors.
    • Performance. For a unit of time, the device is able to give out air quickly and in large quantities. Thanks to the high performance, the container fills up faster, and the direct use of compressed air makes the flow from the nozzle stronger.

    High-speed engine and a device with a volumetric piston system will help to combine power and performance. To ensure that the equipment does not stop during overheating, it is necessary to create additional cooling of the cylinders. Sometimes turbines are used for the working unit. In everyday life, the frequent use of simple devices is not resorted to because of their high cost. In order not to choose between power and performance, use a receiver.

    The receiver is a storage tank. For industrial devices, a steel cylinder is used as a receiver. A fairly powerful, but not very productive compressor slowly fills the tank. In a short period of time, it is possible to supply a volumetric air flow from the receiver, but only when sufficient pressure appears. After supplying air, it must restore pressure. All devices work on this principle. For a compressor with low power, an electric motor from a toy is suitable. Such a device is often used to supply air to an aquarium.

    Functional homemade compressor

    Unlike devices that are made from car accessories, the compressor from the refrigerator runs continuously. This is due to good power and performance. In addition, the quality is not worse than the factory models. And if it is possible to get components for free, then it will take a minimum of funds to manufacture such a device. The device is designed for painting and blowing, tire fitting works, perfectly ensures the operation of pneumatic tools. For the manufacture of a compressor for voltage 220 V you will need the following details:

    1. Motor-compressor from an old refrigerator.
    2. Tees, oil filling tube, hoses, fittings, pneumo inlets.
    3. Reducer that will monitor the pressure.
    4. Two manometers.
    5. Receiver. To do this, a fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder, which must be completely empty, is suitable. You can weld a homemade container made of sheet iron and a thick pipe.
    6. Air filter.
    7. Butter.
    8. Emergency valve.
    9. Start relay and pressure switch.
    10. Paint for metal.
    11. Fum tape, hacksaw and motor oil.
    12. Key and syringe.

    The assembly of the compressor consists of several stages:

    High Power Compressor

    If the previous version of the compressor is not powerful enough for you, then there are devices with more high pressure and high performance. An internal combustion engine is used here as a compressor, the crankshaft of which begins to work not from the combustion of fuel, but from the reverse process. At the same time, the piston group of the apparatus has a large margin of safety. An electric motor with a power of 3 kW or more is used as a drive, which can be purchased at a low cost. Or use a working motor by removing the ignition and intake system, exhaust, starter group and gearbox.

    This device is capable of creating pressure with a force of 10 atmospheres. Very noisy.

    Medium Power Air Compressor

    From a gas bottle or fire extinguisher an air compressor of medium power is being created. To do this, they connect an old fire extinguisher (cylinder) and a powerful auto-compressor for pumping wheels. When making the device yourself, the following rules must be observed:

    • A container with mechanical damage and corrosive deposits must not be used.
    • The design must be well fixed.
    • Be sure to make a steel crate. This is necessary if the receiver accidentally breaks.
    • It is necessary to provide for a pressure reserve. If you plan to increase the pressure to 5 atmospheres, then its strength should be from 10 atmospheres.
    • In order for the compressor to automatically turn off when the pressure reaches its maximum, an emergency shutdown sensor is installed. Or you should install a mechanical valve that, if necessary, will make an emergency pressure relief.
    • Do not leave the high-pressure apparatus for a long time if it is used in rare cases. To maintain tightness, 0.5 atmospheres is enough.

    Do not neglect safety: do not forget about the installation of emergency sensors. An inflated wheel will simply burst, and if a steel cylinder explodes, you can get severe injuries.

    Making a compressor with your own hands is easy. Its design can be simple or complex, the main thing is what it is intended for and how much money you are willing to spend on its manufacture. But do not forget that the device must meet the requirements of technical safety.

    In some cases, an air compressor is indispensable for performing various tasks around the house. With sufficient skills, as well as some initial components and parts, such an assembly can be made independently.

    When do you need a compressor for household chores?

    First of all, it will be needed by owners of individual vehicles. Painting the car, cleaning the interior and engine from dirt and dust, bringing the tire pressure to the required value - only a small list of operations that a homemade compressor can perform. The scope of the unit will increase dramatically if pneumatic tools appear on the farm. For example, in the country, their use in many situations turns out to be more profitable than electric ones: there is no connection to a stationary power line, and designs based on the use of pneumatics often turn out to be more reliable.

    Before embarking on the manufacture of a home air compressor, an initial technical task should be drawn up, in which the following requirements should be clarified:

    1. what excess air pressure is required;
    2. from what and how the drive will be made;
    3. from what components it is possible to assemble the device;
    4. how long will the compressor run non-stop;
    5. what should be the minimum acceptable energy consumption;
    6. whether the quality indicators of the energy carrier are critical: its humidity and temperature.

    To perform most housework, 4 ... 6 atm is enough, however, it should be noted that with prolonged use of the compressor, its moving parts heat up, due to which this characteristic can drop by 20 ... 30% over time. Performance is determined only by the technical characteristics of the pneumatic tool. The minimum consumption is usually for drills, wrenches and dowel mounting guns (up to 100 ... 120 l / min). At the same time, impact tools or grinders will require a flow rate of up to 350 ... 400 l / min. When performing outdoor work (in particular, painting), higher performance values ​​may be required, so it is necessary to provide a margin of 20 ... 30% for this parameter. The same approach is necessary for estimating the power consumed by the unit.

    Any compressor needs a receiver - a storage tank that maintains air pressure within the limits necessary for stable operation of the tool. With an increase in the volume of the tank, the functionality of the air compressor increases, although the overall dimensions of the installation will increase. However, the volume cannot be less than 10 liters. It should be borne in mind that for the purposes of painting, the length of pipelines (and, consequently, losses) will increase.

    How to make a compressor, and in what sequence to work?

    Components of the future compressor

    To make a compressor with your own hands, you will need:


    Mounting order

    How to make a compressor? The following sequence of preparation and assembly of elements is recommended: inlet intake hose with a pipe → pre-filter → final filter → rigid inlet pipe to the compressor → compressor → oil change pipeline → outlet pipeline to the receiver → tee → receiver → RD relay with emergency safety valve → tee with pressure gauge → regulator with valve → combined outlet filter → hose with self-closing pneumatic socket.

    At the initial stage, it is necessary to prepare the compressor from the refrigerator for installation. It is cleaned from the inside of dirt and impurities, painted, and the oil is drained (it is more than likely that this has not been done during the entire period of work; however, there is no particular need for a refrigerator). The compressor already has a start relay set to its parameters, and it is not recommended to change it. The sealed hole in the lower part of the housing is designed to drain the oil. This hole is carefully opened (chip particles should not get inside), after which the old oil is removed with a syringe and the cavity is filled with fresh oil (any synthetic or semi-synthetic oil is suitable, the characteristics of which are almost constant). Oils must be poured 30 ... 40% more, taking into account the natural loss, for example, during continuous painting of large surfaces.

    The next step is to prepare the air storage. The internal volume of the fire extinguisher body must be thoroughly cleaned using a rust converter. After that, a threaded hole is obtained in the lower part of the housing, which is plugged with a plug: it is necessary for the periodic draining of condensate. A tee is attached to the outlet. A possible problem - thread mismatch - is solved by re-threading it. A safety valve is attached to the opposite ends of the tee (its parameters are selected according to needs) and a second tee, also equipped with a pressure gauge. The storage tank is subject to mandatory painting.

    The installation is completed by connecting the second tee of the filter-oil-moisture separator to the outlet. This tee should be equipped with a manual valve and a resulting control pressure gauge. By attaching the last outlet hose, the assembly process will be completed.

    It remains only to install all the assembled components on the frame. It is better to use aluminum corners or thick plywood for these purposes. It is recommended to install the compressor from above: this facilitates the subsequent use of the unit. To avoid unnecessary noise and vibrations, all components must be rigidly fixed to the frame, with the exception of the compressor itself: it must allow some vibrations. To do this, it is better not to dismantle the fasteners remaining on it, or, in their absence, provide for mounting the compressor on spring compensators.

    Adjustment and testing

    The main test of a homemade compressor is to determine the possibility of effectively regulating the pressure that is created in the assembled system. The easiest way to do this is to test paint any surface. In this case, the following is sequentially performed:

    1. Set the relay to 4 ... 5 at.
    2. Connect the compressor to the network.
    3. The pressure gauge monitors the stability of the parameter. If the relay is operable, then when the pressure is exceeded, it will turn off the compressor, otherwise open the relief valve and immediately turn off the unit.
    4. Check the system for the absence of spontaneous bleeding of the energy carrier, for which you can use a regular soap solution.
    5. When the pressure drops to a level below the minimum allowable, the relay should automatically turn on the compressor.
    6. After painting any surface, it is necessary to check the quality of the paint applied to it - during an external examination, traces of moisture, foreign particles and dirt should not be detected. If such defects still occur, you should additionally check the operation of the output filter - oil and moisture separator.

    The work of a do-it-yourself unit will be long and reliable if you periodically carry out routine maintenance on it. It comes down to replacing the inlet filters, periodically blowing out all air lines, and also changing the oil in the compressor.