Fastening the corrugated pipe to the wall. Cable fasteners - Fastening method

The mounting of the cable to the wall is made in different ways: clamps, brackets, etc. The choice of a suitable option is made taking into account the purpose of the premises, the operating conditions. Take into account the type of material from which the wall is built. Different fasteners are intended for fixing the cable, which differs in characteristics (with insulation, without a box, stranded, etc.).

It is mistaken to assume that the wiring can be fixed on any level surface. Bearing structures and partitions are erected from materials other than properties:

thin, soft;
dense;
solid.

Soft are considered the surfaces of the walls of porous materials (foam, aerated concrete). This group includes plasterboard, plastic, fiberboard. These materials are able to withstand moderate load, deformed under the influence of strong pressure. To prevent the destruction of the entire structure, you should select the methods for fastening the cable to the wall based on the use of fastening elements that have an extended middle / ski part. It can be a dowel of different types.

The group of dense materials includes chipboard, wood, gypsum. The surfaces covered with plaster are also distinguished by strength. The top layer of material has a dense structure. If the question is solved, how to fix the cable on such a wall, consider 2 options: nails, self-tapping screws.

The first one is less reliable. Such a fastener can do if it is used as a temporary measure or this plot will not be operated in the future. Due to mobility, the strength of fixing the nail in the wall decreases. To secure the screws, the holes of the smaller diameter pre-make. However, this measure is used only if the fasteners are installed with difficulty.

Solid materials: concrete, brick. Dowels are attached on such walls, and then holders on the screws (brackets, clamps, ties, etc.). When you need to install a cable on a brick, concrete wall, the hole diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel. In other cases, the difference must be 1 mm.

Cable in Corrugation, Pipe or Channel Cable

If an open electrical installation is performed, this method is preferred. This is due to the fact that the wires are hiding in the corrugation or pipe, a special channel made in the form of a box. Thanks to the use of a closed design, the safety of the cable operation increases. However, this method is much less likely applied to laying large wire bundles.

Channel Channels

Existing varieties are made of:

galvanized steel;
plastic;
aluminum.

Cable Channel can be made in the form of a box of rectangular section, the outer surface of some products has a radius. Such varieties are often installed along the wall: on the floor or instead of a plinth. Other types of cable channels:

trunk;
parapete.

The first of the options is intended for laying the wire for significant distances. Such boxes are characterized by larger sizes. The parapet analogs are installed in offices in order to protect against damage. They have a complicated form, so that such boxes are less likely to hide when moving. Dowels and screws are used to install the cable channel, and also liquid nails.

Fastening with clip

This method is often used with open electrical installation. It is designed to quickly fasten the cable. Wires are fixed with clips with a small step. Such a fastener is installed more often on the wall than the ceiling, since some varieties are characterized by an open design. Wires will not hold onto them. The fastener of this species has a form of a outer, a closed or open circuit, is installed with nails, screws.

Clips are selected by type of material: metal, plastic. On the handles there are holes, thanks to which the fasteners are fixed on the wall. At the same time, dowels are used or an option with a hole under a nail. Such elements are most suitable for mounting wire beams.

There is another option to fix this product using adhesive one-sided tape. Fastening the wires to the wall in this case does not require surface drilling. A variety of clips is selected taking into account the type of material of the base.

Open wires

The cable fasteners are performed with some step. Wiring remains open. For comparison, if the cable is laid in the stroke, you can completely hide it. However, it is much easier to maintain an open wire. In this case, the detachable and permanent attachment elements are used. If it is planned to increase the amount of lived, the first of the species apply.

Metal bracket

Such a fastener for the cable can have 1 or 2 ears. Fixed on the wall with nails, screws. This type of product is used when laying a cable into a metal sleeve. Withstands heavy wires. The bracket is selected taking into account the diameter of the metal sleeve.

Dowel-tie

If you are interested in how to mount the cable, using such products, you should know that you first introduce a dowel into the wall. It is equipped with a special lock on a flexible plastic tape. For fastening, detachments can be applied and in-part mounting elements. The disadvantage of this method is the lack of tight fixation of the structure, since the dowel is simply connected to a flexible ribbon.

Shrews with platform

This option is externally similar to the previously considered analog. However, in this case, the dowel has a platform, so that such an element is firmly fixed in the wall. If a flexible cable screed is used for the attachment with a hole for the self-tapping screw, the dowel is not necessary separately. This method implies the need to install self-tapping screws with some step.

Dowel-Homut.

Externally, simultaneously resembles a dowel and clamp. For fixing in the wall there are notches located at the ends of the fastening element. First, the cable is tied, and attach the wire on the wall, by laying a peculiar dowel in a pre-performed hole. The product is held due to notches - they do not allow the clamp to slip out.

Dowel bases

Externally resemble a dowel and self-tapping screws, have a hole for installing a plastic screed. Flexible elements are purchased separately. First, the wall is done in the wall. Then the fastener is installed, and the head with the hole should be located on the wall surface. At the last stage, the cable is performed using a removable screed.

Insulators

This mounting option is used when laying a cable in a wooden house. Also sometimes used as decor. First, an insulator is installed on the wall surface (ceramic keg with a hole under a nail or screw in the center). Then between such elements, the twisted wire is stretched.

Homemade fasteners

If the cable is paved in hidden areas, you can use independently made elements: they are created using self-tapping and dowels, and an old wiring or metal flexible plates is used as a platform for fixing the wires. After installing the fastener, a strapping is made. At the same time, the free ends of the flexible platform or the old wire are connected together after bookmarking the cable loop.

When mounting the cable, various fasteners are used. It all depends on the specific conditions, financial capabilities and tastes of the owners of the premises. When performing these works, everything should be securely fixed, the insulation is not violated, and the appearance matched the environment and was favorable.

Types of fixing cable and wires to the wall

Materials from which walls and ceilings are made may have different density and structure. The cable, depending on the task, is completely or partially, you can "hide" in the strokes (groove recesses), plastic pipes, corrugations or special trays. And if there is no big necessity in this, it should be consolidated more accurately.

All this can be performed using a wide variety of devices. We will try to consider the most common types of fastening in more detail.

General rules when installing cable

When laying a cable on walls or ceiling, it is recommended to be guided by the following rules:

When using screws, dowels and self-tapping screws try to twist them until you stop. Otherwise, the sticking hat can damage isolation.
The maximum distance between the points of attachment should not exceed 50 cm, and the folds of the fold (turns) it can be reduced to 5 - 10 cm.
Laying is carried out without humps, evenly and preferably in a straight line (horizontally or vertically).
If the stock is envisaged, it should be done less noticeable.
With a hidden laying of cables in the stroke, they are placed so that they do not interfere with the further decoration of the walls.
If you have suspended or stretch ceilings, there is no need to do shorts under them.
The main tool that should be used when installing is a drill, a perforator, a screwdriver, screwdriver and a hammer.

Methods of fastening to walls from various materials

Depending on the surface of the surface, the method of fastening is selected.

Soft and thin . These include walls of foam concrete, aerated concrete, fiberboard, plastic, drywall, etc. Simple fasteners will not hold here. More reliable and stable will be special devices that have the end or middle part are extended. It may be dowels-butterflies, umbrellas or dowels with a drill.
Dense . These are wooden, gypsum, plastered surfaces, OSP and chipboard. In this case, conventional self-tapping screws or simple nails are used. If the screws are screwed with a large force, you can pre-drill holes with a smaller diameter.
Solid . Walls made of brick and concrete are the most common materials of this category. Here, even in the pre-drilled holes, it is easy to screw the screws to screw it problematic. It is in this case that a dowel should be used. Most often, they consist of a plastic cap and screw. The walls are drilled in the wall. For walls made of concrete and brick, the diameter of the drill must coincide with the dowel diameter (6 mm drill is a dowel 6 mm). For less dense surfaces, the drill must be thinner by 1 mm (the drill is 5 mm - a dowel 6 mm). Caps are inserted into the holes, the end of which should not perform from the surface. Then to them, with screws, attach fasteners (clamp, plates or other).

Cable Channels of various sizes

Cable Channel is a very common way to fasten the wires and cable in the open way. According to many electricians is the most convenient way of fastening. The channel cable is performed from galvanized steel that does not support the combustion of plastic, aluminum and are the simplest P - shaped design. In this technical box, the wires are stacked and closed with a one-sided or two-sided lid. The materials of manufacture, color execution, size, execution (which lid), waterproof, as well as by execution are distinguished:

outdoor;
trunk;
plinth;
parapete.

Types Cable Channels

When installing the channel cable, first placed on the wall, then fasten with the help of self-tapping screws, dowel of nails or "liquid nails". The video shows how to correctly carry out the installation of PVC box.

Fastening with clip

These fasteners are pretty in demand when the cable laying. Clips after installation look quite carefully. They can be of various sizes, shapes and be metallic or plastic,

The simple version has the form of a handling, on both sides of which there are holes under a dowel or self-tapping screw. A good and simple design, but there is a small minus - it is necessary to drill two holes for installation. This somewhat increases the installation time.

Metallic clips

Made from the metal strip. For installation, the cable is first "wrapping" by it, combine the holes and fix on the surface. You can use on the wall and on the ceiling. For the latter, it is uncomfortable only to drilling a lot of holes.

Used mainly for mounting cables in corrugations for hidden and outdoor gasket. For different diameters of pipes, there are appropriate clips dimensions. They are mounted on concrete walls using a dowel, and on wooden surfaces - with the help of conventional screws.

Installation can be performed for both a single cable and combine several pieces for fastening the wiring beam. Clip design allows you to collect them in a single block. Each sideways have locks (special grooves), with their help produce a reliable clip of the clips with each other. The wiring with the help of these elements is accurate and smooth.

Self-adhesive clip

Used for fastening the cable or wires of various shapes, can be made in plastic or metal form. The surface where it will be attached, should be cleaned from any dust and dirt. Clips on the back there is a one-sided sticky tape. Such fasteners are used to attach a cable to plastic panels or furniture. There is no need to drill holes in expensive or fragile materials.

Clips with nail

Made in the form of a plastic bracket, the side of which has a nail hole. In the form can be the most different. Use for open installation on wooden and similar on the density walls. In the photo above.

Such a fastening is very fast and convenient. They are often used when we need to arouse telephone, television and other small sections cables on the plinth.

Metal bracket

Used for mounting cable in metal sleeves. Have one or two ears, in which there is a mounting hole. Dimensions can be different. They are selected focusing on the diameter of the metal sleeve. Staples are well suited to hold massive cables. They are easily installed and removed. In the photo above.

Dowel

The use of dowels is justified by the simplicity of installation, universality of use and low cost. They can be carried out, both hidden and open installation on the walls and ceilings from solid materials.

Dowel-tie

Made from non-combustible plastic. It is a convenient fastening element. Use for operational installation of open or hidden gasket.

Screed may have a detachable or perpetrated lock. The first option allows, if there is such a need to change the number of lived. Installation is the same as in ordinary dowels.

Shrews with platform

It is a dowel with a thread and a platform (square or rectangular) to which the screed is attached. These fasteners (SSP) are convenient for quick installation. Made from non-combustible plastic.

SSP - screed with mounting platform under a dowel

Initially, the dowel is installed, on which the pad with a screed is screwed. After that, the wires are fixed. Installation is suitable for wooden, brick and concrete walls and ceiling. With the help of such platforms, you can fix several cables at once.

Dowel-Homut.

Apply for operational attachment of one cable. The clamp is very easy to install. Perforator (if the wall is concrete) breathed a hole of the required length and diameter. After that, the clamp is neatly open, the cable is placed in it and shine sharp ending into the hole. Clamp will not fall out of it due to bilateral notches on his sidewalls.

The shape of the clamp should correspond to the shape of the cross section of the cable. It is mainly or round or rectangular. These installation elements have a small cost and reliable in the mount.

Dowel bases

The base of the dowel (database) type under tie, made of plastic. "Two in one" - as it were, the self-sufficiency and dowel. The head has a hole in which the screed for tightening the cable is encountered.

Installation is very simple. A bandage is clogged into the prepared hole. The screed is installed and the wiring is laid in it. Then tighten.

Construction mixture

It is used for hidden gasket cable in wall and ceiling strokers. For this, a gypsum solution is often used. This installation is a special name - "Srimorozka". There is nothing complex in this method. Make an alabaster cable and the cable sticks out in the stroke in places evenly removed from each other. It should be done quickly, since - the gypsum is grasped fast enough.

Gypsum solution for mounting wiring

Such "Fraction" is well suited for mounting in a single cable stick. But this method is also used as an additional fastening of several cables, for the suspension already installed brackets, dowels-clamps, etc. After all, the stroke channels are filled with plastering solution.

If the volume of the gasket is large, frequent preparation of the solution and fixing the cable significantly reduces the mounting speed. But in many cases it is quite justified.

Insulators

In most cases, the fastening of the wire on the insulators is used as retro or decorative. This method of open gasket is used to mount the wiring both in the house and in the bath.

Retro wiring, fastening on insulators

Barrel is attached to a screw or nail to the wall and the twisted pre-wire is fixed on it. You can twist it yourself or buy already twisted.

Homemade fasteners

It often happens that there are no suitable brackets, platforms or clamps for fixing the cable. All these elements can be made and yourself. Of course, in its design, they will most likely give way to the factory elements, but in some cases it is not so important. And if the hands grow from there, from where it is necessary, then fasteners can be quite a worthy substitute for branded fasteners.

Homemade fasteners for wires

For the manufacture of installation elements, you can use a wide variety of materials. It can be single-core or two-housing wires, plastic, galvanized tin and much more. Here are some of the empty options.

Cut the foxes of the wire, the length is selected depending on the stripping wire. In the middle of everyone, we have told the self-tapping screw.
The same, but single-core pieces wrap around a dowel or self-pressing cap.
Cut the tin strips. In the middle we pierce a nail or self-tapping screw.

Pros of such homemade fasteners are as follows:

simplicity in manufacturing and installation;
there is no need to search for fasteners and its purchases in stores;
the ability to use (install and replace) homemade many times;
you can edit, both one and several wires at the same time.

The choice of accessories, facilitating the life of the masters of all the masters, today is just huge. It was not an exception and segment of the market, intended for the difficult work of electrician workers.

Depending on the method of laying wires, the wiring fastener differs. In this article we will try to maximally cover the entire modern range, so it will be useful both to work masters and those who prefer to do everything with their own hands.

Signing it so that in the future, in the future, it was reliably fixed and did not interfere with it? To do this, it is important to remember the two rules: Hold the wires geometrically correctly in places recommended for this and use reliable mounts. Which of them are provided for hidden installation, we will look at this chapter.

Dowel-Homut.

This mount is one of the most common. It is easily mounted and ensures reliable fixation, and the price of this product does not much burden your wallet. There are several varieties of this attachment that differs from each other not only externally, but also functionally.

So:

The easiest option of this product is the fastening of the type "bracket". It is a strip of plastic with stop-round jar from both ends, a width of 6-8 mm. The size and fastening form is selected according to the mounted cable. The quality of fixation is average, since there is no directional element. Therefore, the use of such brackets for ceiling mounting can create some inconvenience.

To fasten the element in a concrete or any other base, it is enough to sell the cable through it and install the drilled hole of the desired diameter in advance. For greater reliability, it is recommended to install brackets at a distance from each other at 50 - 60 cm.
This fastener type is designed for wires with a diameter of 6-25 mm. It is also possible to attach cable beams, for which it is necessary to take into account the type of insulation, which should be approached for group gasket.

The following appearance is a dowel-clamp with space. The design of this product is significantly different from the above. The photo shows that in its composition there is a durable plastic rod, which is clogged with a hammer, after installing the toothed part to the mounting hole.

This type of fastening is more durable and able to withstand loads up to 8 kg. The fixator for the cable is made in the form of a fastening clamp, which allows the fastening cables, corrugations and even smooth-alone pipes, the diameter of which does not exceed 32 mm.
This fastener has one minus - after installation, it cannot be reused. Therefore, using this type of connection, be careful when placing mounting points.

How to properly breed wiring in the house

Installation site - This is a mount, resembling a certain hybrid of the previous two options. It is a dowel equipped with a mounting head with a hole for a plastic or metal screed. It is made of nylon or polypropylene. If there is a solid base, it is perfect in the wall, due to the shape of the rod. With it, you can easily secure both a single cable and a whole group.

Tip! If you decide to use this type of fastening on the street, then make sure that the clamps applied are resistant to ultraviolet. The instruction on the label will specify this information - most often such ties are black.

Cable clamps

The following is a mount made in the form of a clamp. This design is more durable than a dowel-claw, as a metal screw is used for the strut, due to which, if necessary, the entire design can be easily dismantled and transferred to another place.

Locking the wire is carried out simultaneously with the installation to the wall. It is important that the diameter of the fixed cable clearly matches the clamping diameter, which is necessary in order to avoid sagging or transmitting the insulation of the wire.

Mounting type PP

Another type of fixators is a PP type dowel. It has several varieties that differ from each other shape and sizes that are determined based on the type of fixed wire.

Installation is similar to the installation site or "bracket", the only difference is that the cable is pressed directly to the wall. Also, using such an attachment, you can install pipes. If necessary, this connection is easily dismantled.

Homemade fasteners

If at the right moment you did not have a single bracket at your hand, and the shop of household goods is far away, then do not rush to get upset, because the home-made analogue will not take a lot of time and effort.

To work, you will need: ordinary dowel-screws or dowel-nails, as well as a dioxide wire or galvanized iron plates. Cut the wire (iron) into pieces of 5 - 7 cm long. In the middle we make a hole and wake our dowel there. Everything is ready, it is possible to clearly see the result in the following photo.

It is also possible to use a single-core wire (wire) - in this case, the dowel must be wrapped in a wire at the base of the Hat.

To fix the cable in the stroke, the fast-sized solution of plaster is perfectly suited. This method requires a certain skill, as time to frost is very small, and it is necessary to work out it very quickly. Therefore, knead the gypsum with small portions.

To facilitate the task, we will offer one original way to fasten the wire to frozen the mixture. If the shtroba has smooth faces, then use the corrugations that will serve as a spring strut. This is enough to keep the cable.

Mounting for open-ended

If the electrician in the house is carried out after repair, then there is a way of open electromotion. It is a simpler performed, but due to the fact that the wires remain in sight, requires greater accuracy during installation, and the fasteners used here, in addition to the main function, should bring some aesthetics.

Channel Channels

One of the most comfortable, beautiful and at the same time inexpensive ways of open-end installation is the mount using cable channels. It is a rectangular tube with a removable front panel, which is attached to the wall with ordinary self-tapping screws, dowel screws or nails.

After mounting inside the wire group is placed and closed with a lid. You can easily choose the desired color gamut and even the invoice, thanks to which this fastening will imperceptibly fit into the interior of your room.

There are also more complex options, one of which is shown in the scheme above. Most often, they are represented in the form of electrical plinths. To install such a system, a certain qualification will be required.

Clips

This type of connection is designed to attach cables placed in an additional insulator - polymer corrugation. Due to the coarse appearance, it is most often used in inconspicuous places and technical premises, also perfectly suitable for mounting on the street.

To install clips, use self-tapping screws or dowel screws, then just snap into them to corrugation. The resulting connection will be very reliable and practical.

Insulators for retro style

Today, when creating an interior in the style of "retro", it is often used by the way of open installation, which was used at the absentee of electrification, for which modern manufacturers produce special wires and fasteners. Very beautiful such wiring looks in wooden houses.

The fixation of the cable is carried out using a ceramic insulator, which provides a safe gap between the conductor and a wooden base. During the installation, be careful and do not drag the screws in order to avoid damage to the insulator.

Skoby

In the above photos you see a variety of brackets for direct mounting wire to the surface. Their installation is simple and intuitive, but due to the danger of direct contact of the cable with the wall, use this fastener only if the wires have double or triple insulation. Most often, they are used to fix a television cable.

Mounting site

If you need to secure the wire in places where the surface damage is undesirable (furniture, tile), then use mounting sites. They come in various shapes and colors, but they have one function - just enough to glue such fasteners in the right place, and can stretch the wire.

Specialized fasteners

How to conduct a wiring in the house, if there is no possibility to drill the surface in the location of the cables, or the test type has unusual specifics? To do this, you will be rare for help, but there are no less useful fixtures for installation.

So:

Metal mounting tape is designed to fasten the cable with the desired laying step. It is used when installing warm floors, protection systems from land and heating outdoor sites. It is very convenient to use when fixing large groups of conductors. It has 21 mm in width and distance between flexible fixation points in 25 mm. There are two species - copper and steel galvanized.
When installing anti-icing systems, you must stretch the cable inside the drain pipes. There are two types of fasteners designed for this - galvanized tape and special plastic clips.
Separately, we note aluminum tape, designed to install wires on water pipes. It provides maximum heat transfer and high cable adjustment density to the pipe.

Reader reading with this article, for sure, I realized how to properly carry out wiring in the house and what devices will fit the most. However, we strongly recommend reading the video presented on this page. Perhaps you will discover something new.

Gofrotruba is the best accessory to protect the wire. It makes it possible to prevent its damage in physical impacts, and also does not allow for insulation of the liquid cable or hazardous chemicals. In addition, the corrugation is capable of preventing the spread of fire - they effectively quench the sparks and foci of the open flame.

When installing such accessories for wiring, the question occurs, how to organize the mounting of the corrugation to the wall. We will look at what methods of fixation are used most often, and what are their advantages.

Connector connection

The most popular is the laying of an electrical pipe with the use of clips and clips (with a snatch or without). The simplest clips does not have specialized latches, which simplifies the extraction of the pipeline, but reduces the strength of the fastening as a whole.

The advantage of this method is its simplicity - for fixing the pipe does not need professional assistance. It is enough just to fix the clip either a bracket on the wall, and then put in it a corrugation. In the case of a clamping (or sliding) clamping, the retainer will have to manually clamp, but the clip will decrease independently, due to the natural elasticity of the material used in its manufacture.

The attachment of the corrugated pipe to the wall can be carried out using various means - for example, anchors, bolts, "Molly" and others. The selection of a particular fastener is made depending on which material is made of the wall.

If we are talking about the temporary attachment of the corrugation, you can use specialized fasteners with clamps-tie. Permanent (unbearable) fastening is represented by metal brackets. ATTENTION: On our site brackets and chommutu-ties are placed in another section - Clamps, fasteners, terminal blinds! In this section you can buy clips for electrical pipes of different modifications and sizes.

Independent connection

One of the options for fastening a plastic corrugated pipe to the wall surface is the use of metal supports represented by hooks or special platforms. The principles of laying the corrugations are very similar to the cable break between the supports of the LEP used in the electrical highways. However, in this case, it is possible to do without insulators, since plastic corrugation withstands discharges with a voltage of up to 1-2 kV.

Supports are attached to the wall with a dowel or similar clamps. It is worth remembering that the depth of penetration of fasteners into the wall is the higher, the more the load falls on the clamps. The hole must be large enough if a metal tray will be laid on the hooks or platform - this type of cable laying is used in various engineering facilities.

Fastening to the wall is considered to be indefinted using a special polymer glue. It must be used in cases where damage to the surface of the base is unacceptable or impossible. An example of a sphere of application of polymer glue for the attachment of corrugations is the laying of the PVC pipeline on a plasterboard profile. In addition, with the help of such a material, it is possible to lay pipes and other metal structures.

How to choose fastening step?

One of the most important parameters to pay attention to the organization of the attachment of the corrugation to the wall is the fixation step. Under it implies the distance at which clips will be located or other types of fasteners.

If we are talking about 20-millimeter pipes, then the distance of 70-75 millimeters between individual clips or brackets should be kept. Such an indicator will avoid the provisions of the corrugation and its deformation. In addition, with this position, the cable will be in a state of minimal tension, which will ensure its durability and resistance to physical exertion.

The distance between the fastener increases in proportion to the diameter of the enhanced pipelines. So, if the diameter of the pipes is 25 mm, the distance will be 80-85 mm, and for 40 mm products - 100-105. The maximum distance must withstand between pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters - it will be 1.2-1.25 meters.

What attachments to choose?

It is also worth selecting clamps by the type of material from which they are made. The optimal option is the metal brackets or other holders, but they are fairly road and are not always easy to handle. Therefore, many experts advise to use plastic clips. They are made of the same material as pipes - for example, from PVC. If you need to use high strength holders, then preference is worth paying products from ABS plastic. Plastic clamps, ties always (!!) you need to use only nylon.

: laying and fixing the cable to the wall, the floor or ceiling have to do in an apartment with a rough finish, when re-planning or repairing. Also, when installing new household appliances, it is necessary to pull a separate line from the electrical panel.

Consider how to fix the wires on the wall so that they do not spoil their kind of interior, corresponded to the rules of electrical safety and were protected from external influences and random damage.

Depending on how you decide to breed the wiring through the rooms - an open or hidden way, the method of fastening the wires to the wall is selected. In this article, we will consider popular cable fastening methods - dowels, ties, brackets, clips, their pros and cons.

Cable mount

All this can be performed using a wide variety of devices. We will try to consider the most common types of fastening in more detail.

General rules

In principle, recommendations are universal and easy. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, on the rotations of the track, the fasteners are installed at a short distance from the bend place - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.

When using screws, dowels and self-tapping screws try to twist them until you stop. Otherwise, the sticking hat can damage isolation.
The maximum distance between the points of attachment should not exceed 50 cm, and the folds of the fold (turns) it can be reduced to 5 - 10 cm.
Laying is carried out without humps, evenly and preferably in a straight line (horizontally or vertically).
If the stock is envisaged, it should be done less noticeable.
With a hidden laying of cables in the stroke, they are placed so that they do not interfere with the further decoration of the walls.
If you have suspended or stretch ceilings, there is no need to do shorts under them.
The main tool that should be used when installing is a drill, a perforator, a screwdriver, screwdriver and a hammer.

Fasteners for hidden gasket

If cables fit at the repair stage, they are increasingly resorted to styling inside walls, floor or ceiling. Since the result of the work is not least, the aesthetics is paid to the minimum of attention. But much attention is paid to reliability and security - access for rework is very and very complicated.

Schedules of any type - with dowels, mounting sites, etc.
You can choose a suitable size of the clip.
Make homemade fasteners.

If you make a suspended ceiling of drywall, the wiring can be mounted for suspensions or lay inside profiles. Only when installing the cables do not fit close to the profile wall - to not damage when working.

For laying large beams of wires on the ceiling it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can all the same fastener. The only thing is bad - you have to drill a lot of holes for the installation of fasteners in concrete or brick. It is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. How best to optimize work in this case is slightly lower.

If there is no suggestion of false walls or finishing gender, the wires are deepened - shoes. They put the wires, then they are smeared with a solution and after already producing finishing finish.

From the point of view of aesthetics, the option is perfect. From the point of view of operation, it is problematic, as it is practically impossible to replace or wiring, without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, the wiring is done in this way, just trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with some power margin or the number of pairs.

According to the safety rules in combustible walls (wooden, panel and frame), the cable in the non-combustible shell or in the all-metal tray is laid. If we are talking about a non-combustible shell, then it is usually a corrugation from unsupporting plastic burning. In this case, the shell actually fastens, inside which the cable is located.

It does not particularly affect the choice of fastening type, but affects the selection of fasteners - it is simply necessary that the locks can cover the shell.

The laying of cables inside the combustible walls is associated with difficulties: the requirements are very tough. They can be performed in frame or panel houses, but it is very difficult in the bars or in the cuts. It is necessary to put all-metal trays into the walls.

At the same time, it is necessary to remove a large amount of wood, which does not improve the heat engineering characteristics, and the appearance is ideal, it is not possible. Therefore, in wooden houses, they are more often resorted to the open method of installation - over the walls.

Fasteners for open gasket

With an outdoor cable laying, more stringent requirements are imposed about the appearance of the fastener. Since everyone in sight must be selected the most imperceptible options or on the contrary, the most decorative, such as retro-wiring.

Installation in cable channels. These are plastic trays that are attached along the walls. The method is not the best in terms of aesthetics, but if necessary, laying a large number of wires in wooden houses is perhaps the cheapest when installing and convenient.
Laying a certain amount of wires in special plinths.
Use the stapler brackets. The most imperceptible fastener, besides installed quickly.
Fastening with brackets and clips painted in tone with cable.
There is a choice, but all the ways are imperfect, because everyone decides for himself, how and how to mount the cable.

Wire mounting to the wall

Depending on the surface of the surface, the method of fastening is selected.

Soft and thin.

These include walls of foam concrete, aerated concrete, fiberboard, plastic, drywall, etc. Simple fasteners will not hold here. More reliable and stable will be special devices that have the end or middle part are extended. It may be dowels-butterflies, umbrellas or dowels with a drill.

Dense.

These are wooden, gypsum, plastered surfaces, OSP and chipboard. In this case, conventional self-tapping screws or simple nails are used. If the screws are screwed with a large force, you can pre-drill holes with a smaller diameter.

Solid.

Walls made of brick and concrete are the most common materials of this category. Here, even in the pre-drilled holes, it is easy to screw the screws to screw it problematic. It is in this case that a dowel should be used.

Most often, they consist of a plastic cap and screw. The walls are drilled in the wall. For walls made of concrete and brick, the diameter of the drill must coincide with the dowel diameter (6 mm drill is a dowel 6 mm).

For less dense surfaces, the drill must be thinner by 1 mm (the drill is 5 mm - a dowel 6 mm). Caps are inserted into the holes, the end of which should not perform from the surface. Then to them, with screws, attach fasteners (clamp, plates or other).

Mounting cable to ceiling

Fastening the cables to the ceiling occurs mainly when the tension ceilings or ceilings are made of plastic panels and drywall. In the case of plasterboard, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a suspension system to which you can fix the wiring harnesses with plastic screeds.

In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because all the same clips and brackets use, and under each you need to install a dowel (if the ceiling of the concrete slab).

Using cable trays (described above).
At attaching some lines to the ceiling, hanging small wiring harnesses with plastic screeds.
Use for fastening a long perforated metal strip.

How to fix the cable in the stroke

About and laying the harnesses from cables should be taken care long before the final finishing of the room: it was when there is no furniture, no things in the apartment, neither the wallpaper, nor linoleum, nothing. In a word - naked walls, as in one well-known telecast.

On these bare walls, we define and place the track in which we will pass cable lines. Markup can be made using a construction pencil and level.

It will not be superfluous here that the cable lines should be placed not ababy as, but to go either horizontally under the ceiling (at an altitude of 2.5 m), or strictly vertically on a plunder. No diagonal transitions and horizontal segments are not allowed categorically.

By producing wall marking, we immediately determine the location of the sockets, switches and, because the holes in the wall for their installation will need to be performed at the same stage as the cable styling shoes.

The width of each shortcut is determined in accordance with the amount and cross section of the cable, which will be fixed in it.

Strobin

After completing the markup, go to the next question having a primary value. What to stroke? Choose there is from what.

Most often, the perforator with one of the special nozzles is used to perform the shrust. The first one of these nozzles is called - Strobreter. The stroker is a slightly curved blade with a longitudinal groove. The end of this blade is pointed and designed to deepen inside the punctured shoes.

Working with the strokener should be on a purely shock mode, without rotation. Strobe from it is accurate and deep. However, with the help of this device, the stroke is wider than the stroker itself only for several receptions, which, of course, is not very convenient.

Another nozzle, often used for sticking with a perforator, is an ordinary flat blade. The principle of working with it is about the same as with the stroker, but the performance is slightly lower.

Ordinary sharp peaks for the perforator or even the borants, oddly enough, are also sometimes used for sticking, - when there is nothing at hand at hand, and the volume of work is very small.

And yet, the perforator is not expected to expect much to be expected when the perforator is expected, especially if we are talking about the stroke of concrete walls. Therefore, with large volumes of work, many electrical installations are used to perform a disk cutting tool.

As such, a corner-glare machine (USM) is often suitable, or, simply speaking, Bulgarian with a diamond segment disk. With it, it is made of slits along the edges of the shortcomings to the necessary depth, and the middle part is later easily knocked out with the help of the same perforator.

Despite, it would seem, a much larger number of operating operations, the strobalization with the help of the Bulgarian is much more productive than the same job when using one perforator. The reason is that Bulgarian makes each cut very quickly for one single pass.

The most productive tool for sticking is the strokesis - very similar to the grinder to the adaptation. Two cutting disks located in parallel to each other have two cutting disks.

The distance between these discs is adjustable, which means that you can set the width of the shorter in the required limits. The position of the discs relative to the supporting surface is changing, that is, the depth of the sticking.

Disc cutting tools in comparison with the perforator there is only one drawback. Of course, when the dust perforator and dirt, the dust is a lot, but from the cutting disk this dust is not even clubs, but a solid stream.

If the electrical neglects the means of individual protection when sticking with a baccoon or stroke cutter, then by completing several objects, it risks damage the disease of the lungs and / or eyes.

Therefore, protective glasses, respirator and earplugs when performing a stroke - this is not a luxury, even if you work the perforator. Its health is always more expensive.

Professional strokesons, by the way, are equipped with not only a protective casing for disks, but also a regular pipe for connecting an industrial vacuum cleaner, which can absorb most of the dust produced.

Mounting cable in the stroke

And here the shtrtoba is made, dust and fog dissipated, and you can start the installation of cables. Unfortunately, the requirement to replace the hidden wiring when laying a cable in the stroke most often have to neglect. Performing large and wide strokes in which the cable wiring pipe can accommodate is not always possible.

Therefore, as a rule, the cables are stacked by harms, without any additional protection. Isolation of the most popular cable for home installation - Vggling is quite reliable and does not fail with this method of laying.

Secure the same cable in the stroke can be one of the following ways:

With the perforated strip.

It is these nylon perforated bands that were used in their mass during the construction of our "favorite" panel "Khrushchev". The strip was attached across the ships using a dowel and securely kept the entire mass of cables regardless of their quantity.

How to fix cable in the stroke through the mounting aluminum strip.

Sold by such in any electrician store. Actually, it is not necessary to buy it: if there is free time and patience, you can make it, cutting any thin and plastic metal.

For installation, the strip makes itself in the middle and is screwed to the bottom of the shortcut with the help of a popular pair "Self-dowel". Cables fit on the strip from above, and its ends are bended to the passage, forming a dense and reliable castle. The method, of course, time-consuming, but still very popular.

It is quite possible to mount the cable with alabaster.

I pull the cable line on the stroke and immediately fix the solution, which is kept at hand. The disadvantage of this method is that the alabaster solution cannot be breeding in large quantities due to the fact that it dries very quickly.

The most "advanced" and productive way of fastening the cable in the stroke is the fastening with the help of a dowel-clamp.

Dowel-Homut is a 6 mm installation dowel. At the end it has a special loop, allowing to keep the harness of cables. Thus, the installation using a dowel-clamp is simple: it is enough to break a row of holes only, and then insert a dowel-clamp with a fixed harness in them.

Types of fasteners for cable and wires

With the forehead type of electrical wiring and cable, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected on the basis of the existing conditions, the possibilities and tastes of the owners.

The main task is to provide high-quality fixation and not disturbing isolation at the time of installation, nor during further work and operation. And pick the type of fastening from possible options.

There are quite a lot of them - there are special, which are produced specifically for cables, there are borrowed from other areas, there are homemade.

Dowel-Homut.

Plastic dowel Clamps for fixing the cable are designed to fix a single cable. Fasten the cable dowel Clamp is very simple. To do this, we will just need a perforator and a drill on concrete with a diameter of 6 mm.

From the side of the clamp at an angle, notches are made, which prevents the fallout of it from the wall. If the drill and clamp size is chosen correctly, the dowel will never fall out of the hole.

First, the hole in the concrete is drilled on the necessary depth (depends on the length of the dowel itself), then the clamp is revealed and the cable is laid in it, after which the clamp is pushed into the hole.

The dowel clamp for fastening the cable can be in two versions: for flat and round cable.

Positive moments are low cost, fast installation, reliability of fixation (you can be sure that the cable does not break under its own weight).

With the help of a dowel, the cable fastener can be performed to concrete, brick, foam block, decorative stone. It is suitable for both open and hidden fixation of the wires.

This type of attachment is sometimes called a dowel clip or a dowel-bracket.

Dowel Clips

A more imperceptible when installing is a dowel clip. This is a curved band of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which by the force of elasticity will keep fasteners in the wall or ceiling.

The form of these products is for round and flat cables of different sizes. But they will not secure serious cables - are not enough. But very carefully look at the conductors of small sections, including television, telephone and for the Internet.

They are installed simply: the hole of the suitable diameter is drilled, the conductor will start in the clip, the ends are refilled into the hole and the effort is inserted there. A really good option - quickly mounted, you look neat. Used mainly for open wiring.

Another option for quickly fastening the cable is a dowel screed. It is performed from non-combustible self-tapping plasticates, allows you to quickly mount cable lines. It can be used for both open and hidden installation.

Dowel-screed is a fast and convenient way to fasten the cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces.

There is a screed with a detachable and in-point lock. The plug-in lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The method of installation is the same as an ordinary dowel. The difference is that the dowel here is also plastic.

Skobe

Cable brackets are plastic and metal.

Metal brackets for fixing the cable

As a rule, this method is used to attach cables laid in a metal sleeve. Metal brackets have a hole for fasteners from one or both sides. The size of the bracket can be selected depending on the diameter of the metalwork. Perfectly confront mechanical impacts, suitable for "holding" heavy cables.

Plus is a "reusability." You can easily replace, shift, add-remove the cable, just unscrew the screw.

In this method of attachment, the fixation of the cable to the surfaces is performed using pre-prepared fastening structures, it is traditionally used to fasten the wiring.

Reliable fixation, due to which the cable can be very tightly pressing to the surface.
Fixing several parallel-running cables, for this you do not need to drill a bunch of holes, and capture and fix it at once 3-4 (and even more) the cable can be a long bracket-fastener.

Two-housing aluminum noodles or PTPG is a more rigid wire, usually applies as a bracket. To the wall, the fastening of the bracket itself is performed using the "quick installation" (6 x 40 or 6 x 60) or with the help of construction nails (if the walls are lined with gas-silicate).

As a rule, it is used for open installation of single cables. The plastic bracket is equipped with a nail for fixation, respectively, suitable for mounting on soft surfaces, such as a tree, chipboard, plastic (you can't throw such a carnation to the concrete).

For my practice, it was often necessary to see the attachment of television and telephone cables. Plastic brackets are very like to use providers for fasteners of an Internet cable.

In general, if the repair is already completed and it is necessary to carefully dilute the cable over the plinth - this is the perfect option - easy and cheap.

Clip

With the help of the clips, you can fix the cable on the wall, the ceiling, on the floor. You just have to choose the correct design, and there are a lot of them. Cable mount Clips is a very popular method - it can work very carefully and almost imperceptibly. This is if an open wiring laying is assumed.

These fasteners are pretty in demand when the cable laying. Clips after installation look quite carefully. They can be of various sizes, shapes and be metallic or plastic,

Clips for mounting cable are metal and plastic, with different shapes. The simplest people have a form of a handicuit, from one and on the other hand there are holes for a self-tapping screw or dowel. They all are good, but two holes must be drilled for installation, and it takes a lot of time.

There is an option that allows you to withstand the fire gap when installing the power cable on the combustible surfaces (in the photo on the left). This fastener is fixed with one self-tapping screw to the surface. It is good because, if necessary, you can add threads to the same fastener. To do this, you will not have to shoot it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding the upper part of the clips.

The third option is a peculiar loop of a metal strip. To install it first, you need to start the cables inside, then combine the holes and fix on the surface.

All these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large amount of threads on the ceiling, they are uncomfortable - too much required holes for mounting. They are made of metal, the part is then stained - so that with the outer gasket the fastener has been released less.

Plastic clips are used mainly for fixing cables in corrugated hoses. They are different sizes for various diameters of corrugations. It can be installed both one to assemble in the ruler - for more accurate installation of large wiring bundles.

This type of clips is used mainly for hidden gasket, but if the corrugation is laid outside, it is more convenient to fix it with their help.

Excellent option for fastening the cable to dense surfaces: wood and its derivative, plaster - clip with nail. On the side of the plastic bracket there is a hole in which the carnations is inserted. In the form of nail brackets there are round and rectangular - under different shapes of the conductors.

The cable fastening with such brackets is fast and not striking. Most often, also fasten small wire sizes - television, telephone, for the Internet.

Another option for quick installation. It consists of a dowel with a thread and a platform with a screed attached to it. First, the dowel is installed, the platform with a screed is screwed. The wires are attached to the finished track.

SSP - cable screed with mounting platform under a dowel

Material - non-combustible plasticity, color - gray, use temperature - from -45 ° C to + 85 ° C. Can be mounted on concrete, brick and wooden surfaces.

Even the smallest brackets and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make fasteners practically invisible, in any case in some cases. If there is a construction stapler to wooden surfaces or plaster, the wires and telephone cables can be attached to special brackets.

They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special brackets for a stapler, intended for mounting a cable with plastic limiters (average drawing). They do not allow the wire to transmit the wire, which happens when working with conventional brackets, if there is too much effort on the trigger mechanism.

It is good way to high speed - just one press on the staple lever and the bracket is already installed. For an hour, you can fix a decent metrah. Another positive moment - fasteners are minority, with a dismantling in the wood there are very small holes, which are also practically invisible.

With plaster and chipboard, OSP is somewhat more complicated - damage can be more, however, they are still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest.

The lack of fastening the cable stapler is significant limitations in size. Such staples are not large. The maximum size in the width of the bracket is 12.5 mm, and it is not in all kinds.

This is more than enough for the installation of telephone "noodles", the Internet cable or other similar conductors, but already a VVG or NYM in this way to fasten is far from always. In addition, these cables are isolation is tougher, which requires more frequent installation of the bracket.

This cable fastener is made in the form of a square platform. May be square or more oblong. I prefer to use the second option, as they are more durable. Inside there is an mounting hole for fastening. Sometimes in stores you can meet an abbreviation as a PMO (platform with mounting hole).

Installation is also not much difficult. To begin with, the hole in the concrete with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, an ordinary dowel is inserted into it, and the site is attached to the base (wall or ceiling) with a screw.

Then we take the usual nylon screed and secrets with its help cable to the site. This method allows you to fix multiple wires and cables to one platform. And this means that drilling holes need less, which accelerates the installation process accordingly.

A positive aspect is easy to use, quick installation, the ability to mount to the site of several cables at the same time.

Fastening clips for corrugations is carried out by a dowel and self-tapping screw. Clips are selected depending on the diameter of the corrugations. The advantage of the clip is that they can be collected in the blocks (there are special locks for the side) and put several cable tracks at the same time.

Assembly tape

Metal mounting tape is designed to fasten the cable with the desired laying step. It is very convenient to use when fixing large groups of conductors. It has 21 mm in width and distance between flexible fixation points in 25 mm. There are two species - copper and steel galvanized. Each tape clamp has a bend tongue and petal. The petal protrudes over the surface of the tape, which facilitates its bend, such as a screwdriver. A small bend at the end of the tongue provides a reliable fixing cable "in the castle".

In this technical box, the wires are stacked and closed with a one-sided or two-sided lid.

outdoor;
trunk;
plinth;
parapete.

When installing the channel cable, first placed on the wall, then fasten with the help of self-tapping screws, dowel of nails or "liquid nails".

Not always wires must be fixed inpatient. In some cases, it is just necessary to streamline bundles - so that they are not confused. For example, a considerable amount of wires usually comes to the desktop.

To fixes them hard to anything - after a while they may need to be alterated, and the holes remain from the driven nails, which on the table do not disguise anything on the table. Here for these purposes there are various devices. They are more often called wire holders or cable.

For example, the same brackets, but another building. On the right in the photo above you see a cable clips, which is attached to the back of which is attached double-sided sticky tape.

For fastening on furniture or plastic panels - it is very convenient, the glue can then be washed, and the surface remains intact. In the center - the second option with the same idea, and on the left the so-called mounting area for fastening cable ties.

At first, these sites are attached to the surface - they also have velcro on the back. Then the beam of the wires is attached to the holes with a conventional plastic screed. Not so convenient and neatly (tails of the screeds will hang around), but can also be used.

Homemade devices

It often happens that there are no suitable brackets, platforms or clamps for fixing the cable. All these elements can be made and yourself.

Of course, in its design, they will most likely give way to the factory elements, but in some cases it is not so important. And if the hands grow from there, from where it is necessary, then fasteners can be quite a worthy substitute for branded fasteners.

Cut the foxes of the wire, the length is selected depending on the stripping wire. In the middle of everyone, we have told the self-tapping screw.

The same, but single-core pieces wrap around a dowel or self-pressing cap.
Cut the tin strips. In the middle we pierce a nail or self-tapping screw.

simplicity in manufacturing and installation;
there is no need to search for fasteners and its purchases in stores;
the ability to use (install and replace) homemade many times;
you can edit, both one and several wires at the same time.

Many factory devices have a relatively low price, but when they are required hundreds, the amount falls a considerable one. And if the wiring is hidden - it is required, for example, fasten the cable in the stroke, why inspire extra money, if you can do with underloading means. This is what self-made cable fastening.

Strips of tin + nails or dowels - depending on the material of the wall. Tin is preferably galvanized, and it can be "mined" from beer cans. Cut into strips with a thickness of 7-10 mm, in the center make a hole in which a nail has been done.

First, along the route with a step of 60-100 cm, fasteners are fastened, then cable or wire clamp with tin strips. To secure the cable to be reliable, the ends are preferably clamping into the castle.

From a galvanized metal, cut into strips with a thickness of about 1 cm. You can make the simplest U-shaped bracket. At the ends, nails, use as conventional brackets - grabbing the conductor every 50-80 cm. You can use for fastening wires to walls and ceiling.

Also, the strip of the tin can be used to mount the cable in the loop. The strip covers the cable after which the strip is attached to the wall (see photo on the right).

This option can also be used to fix the conductors in the stroke. From the usual outdoor attachment it will only be distinguished by the step of installing the clamps - they can be rated less often, as the task of them is to hold the cables until the solution is forged that the shroud is close.

In the same way, the wires in the protective sheath - corrugation, pipe, etc. can be fixed. Only bands will be required greater length and, possibly widths - for more reliable fixation. For wood, a nail or self-tapping screw is suitable for bricks and concrete a dowel.

Punching facilities can be fixed and beams of wires. A longer strip of tin can be mounted somewhat located one near other conductors. It is more convenient for this to use perforated metal (for example, mounting suspensions for suspended ceilings), but you can do the usual stripes of tin.

These are the main types of fasteners for a cable that can be made with your own hands. Surely there are other options - fantasy cleaners are inexhaustible, but these are the most common.

Cable trays - for hidden laying of large beams

When the ceiling backlight device, a large amount of wires have to be ladered, and they are fixed to the ceiling overlap. If we are talking about apartments, then the overlaps most often - a concrete slab.

To drill holes in it hard and long, mounting alone or small groups of wire slightly easier. For such cases, suspended cable trays are used. Make them usually from galvanized wire or perforated metal.

They have different sizes, there are several different types of fastening - on studs attached to the ceiling, on the suspensions "T" or "g"-shaped form.

The installation order is: First, the design is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then cables are thrown into it. If you wish, they can be consolidated with screeds to lattices, but usually there is no need.

In addition, there are metal trays from perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are needed when laying cables inside the combustible walls - in frame houses, for example.

The same trays can be used when laying cables in the underground space. But then you can apply a perforated option. It also wonderfully protects from rodents and accidental damage.

Fastening the tray to the ceiling and ceiling designs

Recommendations for fastening tray on ceiling racks
The method is similar to the mounting of shelves and brackets to the wall with the only exception that the brackets are attached not to the wall, but to special ceiling racks or to precast structures from ceiling supports and a mounting profile.
Fastening the trays using brackets to the ceiling is carried out using the team of the unit - the ceiling bracket.
The ceiling bracket assembly is attached to the ceiling with anchors-bolts or clogging anchor.
Anchor clogging with a special tool for an anchor clogging, and then bolts are wrapped in it. Anchor installation makes it easy to go through or dismantle the mounting structures.
The ceiling bracket must be installed in 1-1.5 meters (i.e., as well as with any other installation method: in the locations of the docking and in the middle of the cable tray).

Similarly, the installation of trays is carried out using free-standing (without support to the wall) floor racks.

The punching attachment is the cheapest solution, but due to insufficient stiffness, it has limited use: a small load, a small suspension height, a small width of cable trays, difficulties with the expansion of the mounting design.
Perflector is attached to the ceiling with bolts in anchors.
Channels are attached to a perfidule with screws, nuts and washers.
The distance is selected as well as when attaching brackets - in places of trays and in the middle of the tray (1-1.5 m).
As a more convenient, practical and reliable alternative to this method, it is proposed to mount the trays to the ceiling with C-shaped suspensions.