Homemade brick shower tray. Do-it-yourself country shower

Before you make a shower tray, you should waterproof the underlying surface. This is all the more difficult because the coatings can be different. It is far from always a concrete slab or screed, as in a new building. In an old apartment, a tile pattern can already be laid on the bathroom floor. Then you stand and think: to leave it as it is means to wet the neighbors for sure; to do on top of ceramics ... with what composition? The base largely determines the degree of adhesion of building mixtures. And folding the shower tray with your own hands is not so difficult.

For construction, you will need some bricks, cement, tile adhesive, grout. And the cladding is done with mosaic or full-size ceramic tiles. Sometimes a solution is poured in the center, and this is where the process ends. Moreover, many create a removable formwork around the perimeter of wood of the desired height, and the perimeter is also made of concrete. The meaning of this procedure is that it is possible to obtain a given strength grade, on which the water permeability of the base directly depends. For example, only heavy concrete is used for the foundations of buildings.

Waterproofing

For waterproofing, mastics of various kinds and impregnations are used. The first name of unprepared users causes rejection. According to the majority, mastic is something soft, which is used to rub school parquet. To look beautiful and the beetle did not eat it. Therefore, the construction of the foundation on mastic is impossible.

Much depends on what kind of floor material in the house. Concrete is brick, wood or metal. In each case, the types of waterproofing measures will be different. And a shower tray made of tiles is not always appropriate.

Mastic: yes or no?

This is a fundamentally wrong opinion - what is voiced above. Mastic is different, but construction is specially made to withstand mechanical deformations. Most of these building mixtures are used for external waterproofing of building foundations. You can imagine what loads there are in winter. And bitumen mastic must successfully withstand the vagaries of the weather. Let's look at an example to make it more clear. On sale there is bituminous mastic Slavyanka at a price of 1500 rubles per bucket of 9 kg:

What can be said? We would also be interested in the adhesion strength with acrylic polymers and paint. For those reasons that many do not want to lay out the pallet with tiles, but prefer to buy it ready-made. In this case, the waterproofing of the foundation is carried out only in the area of \u200b\u200bthe siphon and along the path of the sewer pipe.

Many do not quite understand what tensile strength is. This parameter characterizes the ability of the coating to withstand mechanical loads on separation. Surely the given values \u200b\u200bshould be enough for a home shower tray, but you can also do calculations. Let's say the smallest adhesion strength is 0.4 MPa or 400 thousand Pa, which corresponds to 400 thousand Newtons per square meter. The area of the average pallet is from 80x80 to 90x90 cm. Let's take the smallest of these parameters.

With a pallet side of 80x80 cm, its area is 0.64 square meters. That is, the peel strength of the entire surface will be 256.000 N or approximately 25.6 tons. We believe that it is not a fact that even an elephant will be able to roll our pallet on the bathroom floor if it is glued with such mastic. Thus, all fears about the softness of the mastic are completely groundless. Ahead of the train of thought of readers, we note that mixtures are not only bituminous, but also cement. And their characteristics are no worse.

Penetrating waterproofing

Penetrating waterproofing works on a completely different principle. The substance penetrates deep into the concrete, forming insoluble crystals with the solidification products of the cement stone. This type of waterproofing is designed specifically for walls and floors. We made a reservation above that Slavyanka mastic is not the most economical material for waterproofing walls. Please note that all the characteristics are centered around mechanical strength, and only one of them relates to water pressure. This is due to the fact that frost heaving acts on the foundation of the building, and underground sources are not very powerful.

With specialized compositions for pools and containers, everything is completely different. Kalmatron manufacturers claim that the floor of the bathroom, covered with their composition, increases the waterproof rating by 2-4 units. For convenience, we will translate this into MPa to compare with bituminous mastic. Each unit corresponds to 0.1 MPa, which is an order of magnitude (10 times) higher than the parameter given above. That is, the processing of concrete with Kalmatron gives an effect up to 40 times greater than that for bituminous mastic. The hardening time of one layer ranges from 15 to 180 minutes.

What's the catch here? It is necessary to check with the manufacturer the applicability of the building mixture. According to the description, it only works for concrete. And more precisely - for cement. That is, you cannot strengthen brick and wood with it. It is a concrete base that is needed (the floor screed in the apartment meets this condition). Ceteris paribus, the Kalmatron consumption is lower (1.6 kg per square meter), and the operating temperature range is much wider. It remains to determine the price.

On average in Russia, Kalmatron is sold at 75 rubles per 1 kg. For 1,500 rubles, you can take a whole bag and process about 12 square meters of surface with it. It turns out cheaper than bituminous mastic. Because the specialization of the material is completely different. There are other mixtures on the market that operate on a similar principle.

What is the salt?

The essence of the idea is that the manufacture of a waterproofing layer can be made with different materials. The foundation plays a big role. Kalmatron is not suitable for a wooden base (judging by the description), and bituminous mastic is by and large suitable. Because the principle of operation is different. Penetrating waterproofing reacts with the products of hardened cement stone, and the mastic forms a surface layer, the main thing for it is to cling to the base.

The catch is that manufacturers of penetrating waterproofing do not provide tensile strength specifications. Of course, they should be acceptable, but I would like to see concrete figures. In this case, the compressive strength is given and is 25 MPa. This is less than most bricks, approximately equivalent to M250 concrete.

Based on the cost of materials, we can conclude that work should be done economically. You can often see a scheme according to which the floor is first covered with mastic, then it is applied from above under the tile. There is no logical explanation for this. Unless the bathroom floor is completely damp. This does not happen in the average house. Moisture rises through the capillaries of the brick, which affects the durability of the structure. That's why the base is processed.

Masonry or concrete?

We have already said that a concrete base is much easier to use. If only because waterproofing materials are cheaper for him. It is possible to collect fine granite, gravel or even rubble somewhere, do not neglect this. Making waterproof concrete from high grade cement according to the right recipe is not a difficult process. An additional plus is that the dimensions of the brick do not affect the design process in any way.

Generally speaking, a homemade concrete pallet can be poured in one piece. Weight is calculated according to typical formulas (depending on the brand). This is especially good on a vibration stand. The only problem here is that you need a powerful machine to shake such a hulk. After installing and covering the pallet with a layer of waterproofing, mosaic or other types of ceramic tiles are tiled. The pallet can be formed directly with a drain, leave a special side for a corner, mounting holes (for mounting on the bathroom floor, like a toilet), and so on.

You see that the question of what to make a pallet in the house is not as simple as it seems at first glance. On the one hand, brick structures have proven themselves well. On the other hand, their correct assembly is very difficult. This does not mean masonry with dressing of seams, but the complexity of waterproofing work.

What to do if the house is wooden

The strength of the board is not very high, besides, the process of decay does not bypass the tree. That is why the installation of the pallet in this case has its own characteristics. In a private house, it is better to choose a structure that is as light as possible, and make the foundation so as to provide a dry bathroom floor with simple means. At first glance, these requirements seem impossible to meet.

In fact, it is still possible to install a cabin in a wooden house with an underground floor and other delights of village life. In this case, the main tasks are:

Minimize the weight of the entire structure.
Provide a ventilated foundation.

Amateur craftsmen in order to install a shower cabin in a wooden house offer the following non-standard solution. The pallet is bought ready-made in the store, but without legs, or the legs are not involved in its installation. Instead, a frame is assembled from polypropylene pipes. It consists of two frames running along the perimeter (upper and lower). Installing a shower tray on such a foundation means solving several problems in the bathroom at once:

Easy access to the compartment with sewer pipe and drain.
The ability to build a 12 V exhaust fan into the decorative plinth panel to keep the house dry and block the growth of mold on the bathroom floor.
The pallet, if necessary, is easily relocated to a new location.

Polypropylene pipes are very simply attached to the floor and serve as the basis for hanging a decorative plinth. The corner can be bought at a polycarbonate store, which will further reduce the weight of the entire structure. You can tease for a long time about the fact that the fan is supposedly difficult to install, but readers should also be aware that special ventilation (supply) valves are sold for wooden houses for installation in walls, including those with controlled valves and other chips. It doesn't cost anything to set it up to monitor humidity levels.

In a wooden house, a tile shower does not always look the best. At least due to its large mass. Of course, no one forbids lining the plinth with mosaics. Finally, we note that when making a foundation from a polypropylene pipe, it is necessary to provide some kind of support for the center of the pallet in it. Otherwise, the product will easily be pushed through with your feet. In this sense, it is sometimes useful in a store to pay attention to deep pallets, which are equipped with a supporting metal profile. And then beat the option with polypropylene pipes.

A summer shower made of a metal profile is an inexpensive, convenient and reliable option for those who like to spend hot weekends not in a stuffy city, but among the greenery in their own country house. A profiled sheet can resist corrosion for up to 50 years, is easy to install, and, most importantly, even a complete novice in construction can build a summer shower in the country with their own hands. Detailed step-by-step instructions on how to do this can be found in this article.

Summer shower from a profiled sheet - photo of a variant with wooden support pillars and a decorative top bar

Water drainage: drainage or drain hole

Construction begins with the selection on the site of the most suitable place for a summer shower from a metal profile. Since it is desirable to maximize the use of solar heat for heating water, the shower should be located in an open area, lit throughout the day.

Performing drainage.
Organization of a drain hole.

The first method is relevant if a corrugated outdoor shower is needed only to freshen up, and is not intended for prolonged bathing. Then you can simply level a piece of land and pave it with paving stones, stone waste or rubble.

Creating drainage on clay soils

If the soil is clayey, then it is worth digging a hole 0.5-1 m deep, which then needs to be filled with alternating layers of gravel and sand 10-15 cm thick. Gravel should always act as the top layer, and sand as the bottom. To save money, gravel can be replaced with small construction debris, such as broken bricks. You can install a shower in the country directly on such a drainage.

The second case is when a country shower made of corrugated board will be used specifically for the purpose of clearing dirt using detergents, not only by you, but also by your family members. Then, to organize the flow, a small drain pit for a shower in the country is arranged.

Drain hole for a shower from a profiled sheet - a photo of an already equipped drain on the side with a connected pipe

The walls of the drain pit should be lined with stone or brick to prevent collapse, and the bottom should be left to absorb moisture. In addition, a shower drain in the country can be arranged by digging a plastic pipe or large diameter car tires into the ground.

The size of the hole depends on the soil and your needs. If a summer shower for a dacha made of corrugated board is needed for a family of 4 and will be located on sandy soil, then a depth of 1 m will be enough. If we are talking about clay, then 2 m will be the best option.

If the size of the site allows, it is better to organize the drain a little away from the shower itself, but if not, then it is possible right under it.

Do-it-yourself shower in the country: drawings and diagrams with dimensions

In order to make a summer shower from corrugated board, you need a drawing, or at least a diagram of a future building. They do not have to be detailed - it is enough to have basic dimensions, focusing on which you can plan your purchase with materials and further work with them. In addition, the presence of the scheme allows you to plan the technology with the stages of construction.

Drawing of a shower from a profiled sheet with wooden poles and a concrete floor

The country shower drawing above is a simplified version. It shows not only the dimensions, but also the schematic appearance of the shower. The diagram below shows a smaller building with the proposed installation of a tank on the roof, as well as a metal frame. Making a soul of just such a design, I will consider in this article.

Do-it-yourself scheme for a shower in the country house: drawings with dimensions

Creating a foundation for a shower from a metal profile

The foundation for a shower in a country house is usually made very simple, since the structure itself is light. Before making the floor, you need to install and concrete racks from a 60x40 mm profile for attaching the frame. This will increase the reliability of the structure and ensure that the summer shower in the country house made of corrugated board does not tip over from strong gusts of wind. The above-ground height of the racks can be from 2 to 2.5 meters, depending on the chosen shower design.

Since it is necessary to make a shower from corrugated board as reliably as possible, then to install the racks, you need to dig holes with a depth of 1-1.2 meters. This is enough for central Russia, however, for northern latitudes, it is worth additionally clarifying the depth of soil freezing in your area and deepening the racks below this value. At the bottom of the pits, a small layer of rubble should be poured and carefully compacted. Then the pillars are placed strictly vertically and the pits are filled with concrete.

Do not hurry

Before you mount a shower for a summer residence from a metal profile on racks, you must wait about a week. During this time, the concrete will have time to gain at least part of its strength. When performing concrete work and installing racks, it is imperative to use the building level.

Floor making

Making a floor for an outdoor shower is a simple process and, first of all, depends on what type of drain is chosen. If this is a drainage, then you need to bring a pipe from the drain to it, if it is located to the side, or put a wooden grate directly on top of it, which will act as a floor in the shower in the country.

On top of the pit, you can, again, install a wooden grate, or close it with a removable concrete cover with a drain hole. The remaining floor area is filled with cement mortar, having previously installed formwork from boards 70-80 mm high at the edges. To ensure a good drain for the shower in the country, it is necessary to make a floor with a slope towards the drain. Otherwise, water may begin to flow down the sides of the concrete screed.

Do-it-yourself construction of a shower in a country house begins with the installation of supports and the manufacture of a concrete or wood floor

If a summer shower for a summer residence from a profiled sheet is not located above the pit itself, but not far from it, then it is necessary to organize a drain. Again, this can be done by concreted plastic drain and pipe to the floor, or by using special plastic or metal pallets.

In the latter case, you can either pour a concrete screed under the country shower from a profiled sheet, or make a floor-platform from wooden boards. However, regardless of the material, the site should not be solid, but with a square hole in the center. Its size should be such that the chosen shower tray for the cottage can easily fit there with its deep part, while it should be held by the protruding sides. The height of the floor can be greater than the depth of the pallet if it is made of metal, and must be equal if it is made of plastic.

This is due to the fact that the plastic shower tray for the country house is not very durable, and if it is “hung” without a stop, then under the weight of a person it can simply fall apart. If the depth of the pallet is small, then the problem is solved with the help of special supports. The cheapest way to do this is to use an ordinary wooden grate.

Drain pipe rules

If you decide to use a concrete screed as a floor, then the drain pipe is concreted, if a wooden platform, then it passes under it.

Frame device

Before you make a shower from a metal profile, you need to make its frame. To do this, after the concrete foundation has hardened, we connect the installed racks with light metal profiles or wooden bars, while leaving room for installing the door. If the frame for the shower in the country is made of wood, then it must be treated with an antiseptic composition that will prevent it from rotting, as well as the appearance of mold and fungus.

There are two ways to fix the harness on the racks. If it is made of metal, then it will be most reliable to weld the profiles to the racks. If you do not know how to work with a welding machine, and therefore you cannot weld a summer shower with your own hands from corrugated board, then you can use metal screws or screw connections for fastening. For the latter, holes will need to be pre-drilled in the profile. Wooden crossbars are fastened only with self-tapping screws.

Fastening the frame strapping for a shower from a metal profile - a photo of a bolted connection

The lower transverse profile must be fixed at the floor level, the second from the top - along the height of the corrugated board used. In order for the frame for the country shower to be sufficiently rigid and reliable, another 1-2 crossbars are installed between them. Finally, the last, uppermost transverse profile is attached 20-25 cm higher than the previous one. It is needed for making a shower roof from a profiled sheet and installing a tank.

The subtleties of fastening the shower door

When installing the frame trim for a summer shower made of corrugated board with your own hands, do not forget about the door. Therefore, only the two upper crossbars are fastened on all four sides, and all the rest - only on three. In addition, the hinges for the door must be welded in advance, before the walls are sewn.

Thus, it is quite simple to make a frame for a shower from a metal profile with your own hands. Decking is light and does not require a strong and heavy frame. Even for installing racks, a profile of 40 × 20 or 60 × 40 mm is quite enough. Do not be afraid that this whole structure after assembly can be movable. Rigidity will be provided by the walls of the profiled sheet fixed to the frame.

This material is one of the best options for sheathing a shower in the country house is cheaper and easier. It is not only reliable and durable, but also not afraid of moisture and looks very bright and attractive.

Wall lining

The next step after making the frame is finishing the shower with a metal profile on three sides. For its fastening, again, use self-tapping screws or rivets. It is necessary to fix the corrugated board every two waves. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the bottom of the wave and always evenly, otherwise the attachment points will quickly corrode.

Sometimes, for greater reliability, the profiled sheet is fixed at the bottom and at the top with a bolted connection. However, if you are building a shower from corrugated board with your own hands, then this is difficult to implement physically - you will need help with fixing the sheet. In addition, this measure is not necessary, since self-tapping screws are reliable if done correctly.

Sheathing the walls of the summer shower with corrugated board with bolted fastening

For fastening, it is better to use roofing screws with special washers made of self-vulcanizing rubber. On the inside, the attachment point must be covered with special waterproof sealants or simply painted. Finishing the shower in the country should be done with sufficiently short self-tapping screws or rivets so as not to punch through the profile of the crossbars.

Making a summer shower from a metal profile with your own hands, the last stage of sewing is this door installation.

Production and installation of doors

Since corrugated board is made of thin sheets of steel, you cannot simply weld hinges to it and use it as a door - in this application, the sheet deforms very quickly under its own weight. Therefore, in order to make a shower door from a profiled sheet with your own hands, you need to weld a frame, on which you can then fix the metal profile.

For the manufacture of the frame, you should use a profile of the same section as for racks with crossbars. If the width of the summer shower side is 1.5 meters or less, then the width of the door should be the same. If the width of the side is greater, then it is necessary to leave 1.5 meters for the door, install an additional profile parallel to the racks, and sew up the metal shower for giving with corrugated board in the rest. The height of the frame is determined based on the height of the corrugated board.

Trimming parts of the door frame at 45º and checking the correct angle

For the manufacture of the door frame, it is necessary to measure the profile of the desired length, then cut the joints at 45 ° and weld. If you make a door to a summer shower from a profiled sheet with your own hands, then before welding, without fail, lay out the profiles on a thick sheet of plywood or OSB (at least 10 mm) and secure them with clamps. If this is not done, then during welding the frame will “lead”, as a result of which it cannot be used for its intended purpose.

After the frame is ready, two crossbars and hinges are welded to it, and then sewn up with a profiled sheet. After sewing, a handle is screwed onto the door, and two hecks are placed: inside and outside. If desired, a small latch can be installed directly into the profile, then the shower from the profiled sheet can be used to store various bath trifles. In addition, coat hooks can be screwed onto the crossbars.

Roof and tank for country shower

Finally, you have reached the last stage and almost finished the shower in the country with your own hands from a profiled sheet. All the hard work is over - it remains only to choose a suitable water tank and install it.

In any building supermarket you can buy a flat plastic tank. This shape is specially designed for a summer shower. The capacity for a shower in the country is usually taken with a volume of 200 liters - this is enough for a small family. Since the construction of a shower in a country house from a metal profile involves a light frame, it is impossible to take a metal tank for installation on the roof.

Plastic tank for a country shower with an already embedded fitting with a watering can

Plastic tanks for a summer shower for a summer residence are usually sold with a fitting already installed. It remains only to screw a valve with a shower screen into it and you're done.

If there is no fitting, then you will have to make a hole yourself. However, it is not difficult - just follow these steps:

in the right place, draw a circle of the required diameter;
drill holes around the circumference with the smallest drill you have;
with a sharp knife, simply connect the holes;
insert the pipe into the resulting hole;
clamp it well on both sides with washers with rubber gaskets.

If you do not have a small diameter drill, then you can take a medium one, only the places for drilling will need to be marked in advance, and not along the circle itself, but a little inside it.

You need to install a shower tank in the country house on the roof. If its dimensions are smaller than the dimensions of the roof, then it is necessary to weld the attachment point for it. This can be done with a single 60x40 profile, which is welded parallel to the door so that the tank can be placed on top of it and the top crossbar at the back, but it must not protrude beyond them.

Installing a tank on a corrugated shower - a photo of two options of different sizes

Next, along the perimeter of the tank, you need to weld or fasten metal strips, a profile or wooden bars with screws. They should protrude from above, forming sides, and from the bottom of the profile by about 5-7 cm. Thus, it is possible to fix the tank on the summer shower for giving, and also provide an opportunity for attaching the insulation from the bottom of the tank. Instead of a combination of a profile and a steel sheet, you can immediately use the corners with a wide shoulder.

After the container for the country shower is installed, open openings must be closed with corrugated board. It must be installed with a slope so that the water drains without lingering on the roof. You need to fasten the profiled sheet in the same way as on the walls.

In order for the water heated by the sun to retain heat longer, it is better to insulate the tank. If the upper part of the tank and its walls are illuminated by the sun and serve to heat water, then the lower part, inaccessible to the sun's rays, contributes only to heat loss. It is she who should be insulated with the help of any material that does not lose its properties when exposed to moisture. In this case, for another 1-2 hours after sunset, a summer shower made of corrugated board will delight you with pleasant warm water.

Subtleties of tank modernization for more comfortable use of a summer shower

Usually, a shower head for a summer residence is chosen from inexpensive - often even plastic - options, since they can better withstand outdoor conditions. The same applies to the faucet - it is better to take the cheapest Chinese faucet for a country shower with the expectation that it will have to be replaced in a year or two. It is also desirable that soap dishes and shelves for shampoos and other accessories be made of thick plastic and mounted on crossbars.

Finally, let's dwell on a few subtleties:

In order for the water from the tank to be warmer, it should not be taken from the bottom, but from the surface, since warm water always rises to the top, and cold water sinks to the bottom. This is implemented using a flexible plastic tube, one end of which is attached to the nozzle, and the other to the float.
You should buy a black tank - it heats up much faster.
For faster water heating, you can use the roof. Two holes should be cut: 5-10 cm above the bottom of the tank and at the very bottom. Then insert the pipes into them and connect them with a long flexible black tube. This tube must be laid out on the roof of the shower in the form of a coil. Thus, cold water from the bottom will circulate through the tube, heat up and rise to the top.

After a hard day on earth, sometimes you want to cleanse your body of dirt and refresh yourself in warm water.

If there is a body of water suitable for swimming nearby, then it’s good. And if not, then it's time to think about arranging a summer shower in a summer cottage.

What you need to know about the summer shower

There are two types of this building:

Naturally heated by sunlight. This shower is simpler in design. But it will not work on cloudy and cold days.
With artificial heating. In this case, you will need to think about the type of heating device and take care of its proper design. But such a shower will not depend on the vagaries of the weather.

A shower cabin with a tank can be purchased at the store. Its cost varies from 5,000 to 18,000 thousand rubles, depending on the materials.

Such a shower will last much longer and the water in it will heat up faster and hold heat more reliably. For a shower design, a square-shaped tank is more suitable. It is more stable and roomy.

In addition, this form accelerates the heating of water. The size of the tank depends on the number of people who will use it during the day. But remember, the larger the tank, the slower the water warms up in it.

Now consider the stages of preparation and construction of a summer shower with heated water.

Preparatory work

It all starts with choosing a place where the shower will stand. It should be protected from the wind and as accessible as possible to the sun's rays.

The first condition is necessary to prevent the possibility of catching a cold due to a draft after taking a shower.

The second is to make water heating more efficient. Even if you are designing an artificially heated shower, a natural one will help reduce energy consumption. And an important factor - it is better to put a shower near a reservoir or a water tap.

Having decided on the place, it's time to think about the size of the structure. The standard is a square-shaped shower with walls one and a half meters long and a little more than two meters high. But if there are fat or very tall people among the potential users of the shower, this must be taken into account in the design of the cabin.

An important factor is what materials will be used in the construction. You can use a frame made of wooden beams. It is eco-friendly, but not very durable.

Therefore, the shower frame is preferred to be made of metal, and everything else is made of wood. In this case, you should prepare tool kits for working with both metal and wood.

The last point that needs to be considered before starting construction is the drain device. There are several options. The simplest is that the water goes into the soil under the booth.

This is not very convenient, because you have to leave gaps between the boards in the floor, and this in turn will lead to drafts in the shower. A more common option is to drain water into a specially dug cesspool or septic tank.

To do this, a tray is installed on the floor of the shower stall. It is specially placed with a slope so that the used water does not stagnate and does not require additional efforts for cleaning after taking a shower, and a pipe or hose is brought from below, the other end of which is sent to the pit.

Building a summer shower

Construction begins with the installation of vertical racks. If the soil in the area of \u200b\u200byour summer cottage is not reliable, then it makes sense to build a foundation under each rack.

The frame of the three walls can be reinforced with cross beams. So you can be sure that the structure will not fall apart in a couple of years under the weight of a tank or something else. And on top you need to equip a platform for a tank of water.

Sheathing is carried out with already prepared material in two layers (external and internal), between which insulation is optionally laid.

This extra layer is necessary if you plan to use the shower in spring or autumn when the weather is not warm enough. After completing this part of the work, the door is hung.

In conclusion, the installation of the tank is to be done. First, a heating element (heater) is installed inside on metal brackets, and so that it does not touch the walls. Then a hose equipped with a water tap is connected to the tank, and an electric cable is connected to the heating element.

All this should now be installed on a prepared platform on the roof and secured with metal cables. From above, you can build a semblance of a greenhouse: stretch a film (preferably dark in color) on wooden bars.

So the heat will be attracted and at the same time not go outside. At the final stage, it is worth once again checking the tightness of the system, if necessary, use rubber gaskets or silicone seals.

With limited time or funds, you can arrange an endowed version of the shower. It settles down near the wall of the country house, to which a water tank and a shower head are attached. The walls of the shower room are replaced in this case with curtains made of tarpaulin or cellophane, attached to a light wooden frame.

The dacha always combines a place of both work and rest. Therefore, make sure that the working conditions are comfortable, and the place of rest is pleasant. A summer heated shower will help you with this.

Photo ideas for a summer shower at their summer cottage

For a small bathroom, where literally every cm of space counts, building a shower tray with your own hands will be a good solution. Firstly, you can make a pallet of the size and shape that the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom allows. Secondly, the absence of walls in the shower will leave more free space, and while taking a shower, a waterproof curtain will be enough to protect the bathroom from splashes. Thirdly, if the ceilings in the apartment allow, or the shower tray is arranged in the bath, you can allow yourself to make a model of the tray without a barrier with your own hands (Fig. 1).

Figure 1. Scheme of installation of the built-in drain.

The durability of a pallet made with concrete and ceramic tiles exceeds that of acrylic and metal pallets.

Preparation for work

When installing a shower tray, you will need to raise part of the floor in the bathroom in order to install a drain ladder and bring the pipe to the building's sewer system. This requires concrete work and related materials:

Scheme of assembly and installation of a shower cabin.

cement;
sand;
waterproofing material (polyethylene, roofing felt, etc.);
bituminous mastic;
drain ladder, sewer pipe of the required length;
boards;
nails or wood screws for formwork from boards;
plaster beacons, profile PN 27x28 or wooden slats;
ceramic tiles;
waterproof tile adhesive, white;
trowel;
notched spatula;
drill with a nozzle-mixer for mixing the solution.

Figure 2. Shower tray installation diagram.

It is necessary to prepare the surface of the subfloor for the installation of a shower tray: dismantle the existing coating, clean the surface of debris and cover the floor and part of the wall from below with bituminous mastic. This is necessary in order to prevent capillary absorption of moisture into the ceiling (Fig. 2).

In the event that a do-it-yourself shower tray is arranged in the washing department of a bathhouse or in a wooden house, you should take into account the weight of the concrete system and take care of a suitable foundation for the tray. The shower tray is isolated from the wooden walls with a double layer of roofing material so that its width is greater than the estimated height of the tray along with the board.

The sewer pipe in the bathroom of a city apartment is usually at floor level.

In order for the water to leave the sump without delay, the outlet pipe from the drain to the sewer must run with a slope of about 3o towards the sewer.

To do this, you will need to fill in a new screed on the area that the pallet will occupy, or completely raise the floor in the bathroom, if possible and desire.

Shower tray installation

Figure 3. Diagram of a do-it-yourself shower tray.

Shower tray installation diagram.

A layer of water-resistant concrete contact can be applied over the waterproofing for better adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Using a notched trowel, first apply the tile adhesive to the floor of the shower tray. Laying tiles is best done starting from the drain hole so that the cut tiles are against the walls of the pallet. The thickness of the joint between tiles should not exceed 2 mm.

Lay the tiles in the same way on the sides of the pallet and the walls of the room.

After the glue has hardened for at least 3 hours, rub all the seams between the tiles with the same glue using a rubber spatula. Remove excess adhesive with a damp cloth and clean the tile surface. For a complete setting of the glue, it takes from a day to three. After that, you can take a shower.

How to save money on concrete

If it is not possible to buy ready-made mixtures or sand and cement for preparing a mortar in the amount necessary to make a monolithic pallet with your own hands, it is easy to build a brick shower tray with subsequent tiling.

Would need:

silicate or red brick - about 40 pcs. for a pallet 100x100 cm;
cement and sand for masonry mortar.

Other materials and tools, as for the method of manufacturing a monolithic pallet.

Substrate preparation and waterproofing treatment is carried out similarly to the previous method:

Figure 4. Shower cabin assembly diagram.

The base of the pallet is laid out of bricks using a masonry mortar of cement and sand 1: 3 (Fig. 4).
In the same way, the board of the pallet is laid out from the brick. The brick can be placed flat or on a long edge. This makes it possible to vary the height and thickness of the side.
A few days later, after the masonry has dried, a layer of bituminous mastic or other waterproofing composition is applied to all surfaces of the pallet. A layer of concrete contact is applied over the waterproofing, the required slope is formed at the bottom of the pallet with the help of a cement-sand mortar, the sides are plastered with the same mortar.
After the cement mixture has set, you can decorate the shower tray with ceramic tiles or tile mosaics, as indicated above.

Shower tray without barrier

If the installation of the pallet with your own hands is done during the overhaul of the bathroom, you can build a shower tray without enclosing it with a board, flush with the floor in the bathroom. This requires raising the floor level over the entire area of the bathroom by an average of 15 cm from the original, taking into account the necessary pipe slope from the drain to the sewer and the slope of the pallet bowl to the drain hole. In addition to the materials specified for the installation of a pallet with sides, you will need:

hydraulic level for beating the horizontal;
building level for installing beacons.

The basic steps for surface preparation are the same as above. After applying a layer of waterproofing over the entire floor area of the bathroom and installing the primary floor screed with the installation of the ladder, it is necessary to give the concrete time to set for several days. Then follow the next steps.

To beat the horizontal with your own hands, put a mark on the wall and attach one hydraulic level vessel to it. Place the second vessel against another wall and, having achieved the coincidence of the marks on the scales of the vessels, put a mark on the wall. In the same way, apply several marks around the perimeter of the room. Connect the marks with a long ruler, marking the horizontal.
Determine the level of the finished floor, taking into account the fact that the floor in the bowl of the pallet will have a slope towards the mouth of the drain. To do this, set aside the distance from the level of the filled screed that will be needed for the slope device. The mark on the wall will indicate the level of the clean floor of the bathroom without taking into account the finish coating - the zero level. Measure the distance from the mark to the horizontal line.
Set this distance down from the horizontal along the perimeter of the room several times. Connect the labels, indicating the zero level of the floor.
Set the first beacon so that its top exactly coincides with the zero level line. You can strengthen the lighthouse with a thick mortar or gypsum mixture. Install the rest of the beacons, aligning them at the building level with each other.
Install beacons in the bowl of the pallet with a slope towards the drain.
Apply the solution over the beacons, first in the bowl of the pallet, then over the entire floor area, pulling it in the direction from the far corner to the exit. After setting the solution, after a day, remove the beacons and level the surfaces. Leave the floor to dry the screed for a few days.

Then the entire floor surface is treated with waterproofing compounds and concrete contact. Next, the flooring is laid, as indicated above.

This do-it-yourself design option for a shower tray is used in Scandinavian countries and is convenient because even the sides of the tray do not interfere when moving around the bathroom.

When installing any version of the pallet, you can supplement it with walls made of impact-resistant glass or plastic, creating a shower stall, or limit yourself to a curtain made of film.

The owners of summer cottages are trying to bring water to the house and equip basic amenities. You can build a summer shower in the country with your own hands, both temporary and capital - the type of future structure is selected depending on individual needs.

Before you build a shower in the country with your own hands, you need to correctly design, determine the location of the future building, and select materials. The room should be not cramped, as comfortable and convenient as possible for use.

Location selection

In order to ensure a quick drain of water, it is best to install the shower on a flat or slightly elevated area. You should not choose a site located in a strong lowland or in a pit.

To avoid stagnant water, choose the right place for building a summer shower

Optimal for a country shower would be an open area, well lit by the sun, which is located at some distance from other buildings. In this case, the barrel will naturally heat up under the sun, providing a supply of warm water. This condition can be neglected only if it is planned to build a shower with heated water.

At the same time, the site where construction will be carried out should not be too far from home - after water procedures, it is desirable to get out of the shower into a warm room as soon as possible.

Size calculation

When building a country shower, the following parameters are used as standard:

height - 200–300 cm;
length - 190 cm;
width - 140 cm.

An example of drawing up a drawing of a summer shower

The indicated dimensions are very convenient in that, taking into account the thickness of the walls, the building will ultimately come out with an area of 200x150 cm - this is a completely waste-free option when using boards of standard sizes. As a result, 100x100 cm will be allocated for the shower stall, and 600x400 cm for the locker room.

Necessary tools and materials

You will need the following tools:

roulette;
corner;
level;
hammer.

In addition, you need to stock up on nails and a skein of twine. Separately, you need to purchase a tank, as well as pipes, a couple of taps and a shower divider. Brick, iron or plastic sheets, wooden boards are suitable as building materials for building a cabin, and pipes are suitable for building a frame.

Tools needed for building a shower in the country

For the foundation pouring and the erection of brickwork, a certain amount of cement, sand and concrete will be required, and for the final finish - insulation materials, paint, plaster, hooks for clothes, shelves for bathroom accessories and other accessories.

Options for shower designs for summer cottages

The easiest option for giving is a compact portable shower, which is suitable for one-time water procedures, has a standard volume of 20 liters and is designed to supply water for 10 minutes. The principle of operation is reduced to filling the reservoir with water and subsequent heating in the sun, after which the portable shower is attached to a height of 2 meters and is ready for use.

Portable shower

An open shower also has a simple design, the installation process of which boils down to the following steps:

fastening to the wall of a branch of a water pipe;
connecting a pipe and a watering can with a hose;
fixing the watering can holder;
screen installation.

A common option for a summer cottage is the so-called change house with a shower, the design of which assumes the presence of a one-piece modular container or a frame-collapsible block.

Options for a stationary summer shower for a summer residence

The installation of this design is quite simple - the territory is marked, the upper ball of soil is removed and leveled, a cushion of sand and gravel is created, on top of which the boards are laid. On the soil prepared in this way, a block assembled on site or a ready-made structure is installed.

Of course, a stationary shower will become the most solid, but it will take more time and effort to build it.

Foundation preparation

It is much easier to build a frame structure than a capital building - depending on the type of structure chosen, the stages of preparing the site for construction will differ.

For a temporary structure, it is enough to simply remove 10-15 cm of the top layer of soil from the site to level it, and then fill it with sand.

For a country capital soul, a foundation will be required, the depth of which is determined by the materials used for its construction. For example, for a brick shower, a foundation will be quite enough, the depth of which will reach 30 cm.

Foundation for the construction of a capital summer shower

The foundation is laid in the following sequence:

pegs are driven into the outer corners of the future soul;
a cord is pulled around the perimeter;
a place is being prepared for pipes (a log or a branch wrapped in roofing material is laid);
concrete mortar is poured.

Advice! The formwork equipment will allow extending the period of operation of the shower - it is recommended to raise the level of the entire foundation by 10 cm, raising it above the ground with the help of boards reinforced with stakes and spacers.

Drainage pit equipment

The volume of the pit is usually more than 2 cubic meters. m, while its walls must be strengthened in order to avoid possible scree. The drain is located a few meters from the shower, but not under the structure itself and not at its walls - this will lead to the destruction of the foundation in the future, as well as to the appearance of unwanted odors.

An example of equipment for a drain pit for a summer shower

The drain must be laid with a waterproof layer - roofing material, hydrostekloizol, PVC film or concrete screed (reinforced with a metal mesh) are used.

Attention! A common mistake is to use clay as an insulating material, which erodes and soon clogs the drainage ditch.

Installation of a frame for a temporary shower stall

If brickwork is performed for a capital structure, then a frame is usually installed for a temporary one: metal or wooden. In the latter case, the tree should be treated with special impregnations that will protect it from insects and moisture, preventing the formation of fungus and mold.

Wooden frame for summer shower

Marking is done - a rectangle is indicated right on the ground, the sides of which correspond to the dimensions of the future country shower.
Wooden bars are installed, the width of which reaches up to 10 cm.
Ligation is performed - starting from the top, the structure is securely fastened with bolts, after which the beams-basis of the shower walls are connected.
Walls are equipped, for the construction of which you can use both boards and slate or plastic panels.
Piping is in progress - the plumbing is installed so that the outlet of the pipe under the shower hose is higher than the level of the head (this will provide the necessary pressure for the movement of water). For runoff, a conclusion is made to a sump or to a specially equipped septic tank.
A tank is installed - a tap is made with a thread, a tap with an appropriate nozzle is placed, after which the barrel rises and is fixed.

As a tank for a country shower, a plastic container, which can be purchased at a specialized store, or another barrel available on the farm, is suitable. It is desirable that it be flat and proportionate to the area of \u200b\u200bthe building, so that the weight is evenly distributed on the supporting structure. Its volume is selected at the rate of 40 liters per family member, but the barrel should not be too heavy - its maximum volume is not more than 200 liters!

solar water heating tank

Advice! So that the owner of the cottage does not have to carry water into the tank on his own every time, you can equip it with automatic filling.

Country shower lighting and ventilation

When doing the wiring yourself, it is important to follow all the rules of electrical installation and adhere to safety precautions. Separately, due to high humidity, care should be taken to insulate the wiring.

Ventilation window for outdoor shower

The interior shower finish should be made of moisture-resistant materials: plastic panels, pieces of linoleum, oilcloth, etc. If wood is used, then each individual board is covered with hot drying oil.

The concrete floor is usually covered with gratings made of plastic or wood, rubber mats are laid on top. It is quite convenient to equip a small locker room directly in the shower room. In order to prevent water from getting into it, the floors in it rise slightly by a couple of centimeters - this is easy to achieve by additionally placing a pallet.

Summer shower interior

As for the exterior finish, similar materials that have already been used to decorate the country house and other buildings on the site will look harmonious.

To use the shower not only in the summer, but also in the colder season, it is recommended to insulate it with polystyrene foam, which fits into the interior and is upholstered with PVC film on top. The walls are usually painted or plastered, sheathed with clapboard or siding.