Step-by-step finishing of the bath inside. Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to finish, what options are there, examples with photos

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After the construction of the bath comes the turn of finishing work. Interior cladding performs an aesthetic function, and is also used as a protection for wall, ceiling and floor surfaces. The use of furniture in this room will give the interior its own style and a certain completeness. Finishing the bath inside, the photo of which can be viewed on the site, can be done by hand. To do this, you will need to prepare certain materials and familiarize yourself with the technology of installation work.

It is important to choose high-quality materials before finishing the bath inside. Photo interiors allows you to choose the appropriate option.

Materials should have the following advantages:

  • resistance to moisture and vapors;
  • hygiene and environmental friendliness;
  • durability and strength;
  • aesthetic qualities.

The lining inside cannot be varnished or painted, as such coatings will not let steam through. There should be a space of 20-30 mm between the facing material and the log house. In some cases, ceramics can be used. Such material does not absorb moisture and does not crack. Since such a floor covering is cold, it is possible to lay wood flooring on top.

Useful advice! It is better to use lining made of linden. Pine or spruce is not suitable for this room.

How to insulate and insulate walls?

It will allow you to see the features of the bath decoration inside the photo. The steam room must first be insulated. In some cases, mineral wool is used, which is laid on the crate. If the bath is built of stone or concrete, then you can do without. It is important to perform the correct waterproofing of the structure. Aluminum foil or even vapor barrier film is best suited for such purposes.

Wall insulation is carried out taking into account certain recommendations:

  • when cutting the insulation, allowances of 5 mm should be left. This will ensure high-quality fixation of the material;
  • when installing a vapor barrier material, it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the membrane and mount it with an overlap. In this case, the joints are fastened with a mounting tape;
  • when working in small rooms, heat-insulating plates can be used, which are convenient to install even for one person.

If it is made of brick, then the thickness of the insulation can be about 10 cm. If the wall is made of timber more than 20 cm, then they can not be insulated. After finishing, you need original decor items.

Particular attention deserves the decoration of the rest room of the bath inside. Photos of interesting solutions can be found on the Internet.

Knowing some of the subtleties of installation will help to carry out high-quality finishing work:

  • in the steam room, it is necessary to raise the floor level by 16-25 cm above the washing room. This will prevent excess moisture from entering the steam room;
  • you should prefer edged board or tongue and groove. Both options must be moisture resistant;
  • before cladding, all necessary communications must be carried out;
  • when installing benches and shelves, it is worth making sure that their edges are rounded;
  • there are no gaps between the boards.

Natural wood is used for interior decoration. Walls can be sheathed with clapboard, especially from cedar. The original interior can be created using a block house. These are processed boards that imitate real timber.

Windows and doors should be small to reduce heat loss. Doors must be strong and thick. For interior cladding, boards without knots are selected.

You can make a beautiful finish in the bath with your own hands. If you choose high-quality material and follow all installation technologies, you can create a functional and original cladding.

Video: ideas for finishing the steam room and sauna

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Finishing a steam room with your own hands requires a special approach, since the materials used for this must withstand not only high humidity, but also peak temperatures. In addition, the aesthetic design of the room should create a special favorable atmosphere that promotes psychological relief and physical relaxation.

In order for the sauna steam room to meet all the needs of its visitors, according to all possible parameters, it is recommended to think over and draw up a plan for decorating the room in advance.

Basic principles and stages of steam room equipment

If the structure of the bath has already been erected, the premises have been distributed, and each of them is known, then, based on this data, you can start creating a project. It would be better to make several options for a particular room so that there is a choice between three ÷ four interiors.

After it has been determined the most optimal option, it will become possible, focusing on the size of the room, to calculate the amount of necessary building and finishing materials for decorating the walls of the steam room, arranging shelves, for paro-, hydro - and thermal insulation of walls.

In addition, you will immediately need to decide on the lighting system. It should be safe and bright enough to create a special mood in the dark room of the steam room, conducive to relaxation.

All construction and finishing activities are carried out in a certain sequence, which should not be violated, otherwise it is possible that you will have to redo all the work.

  • First thing installed all electrical wiring. In the planned places of installation of fixtures, wires are passed through the entire system of insulation and waterproofing, as well as through the lining.
  • The next step is the crate on the walls and ceiling, and the first layer of vapor barrier material is fixed to it.
  • Then a place is determined for the installation of the furnace - it will be finished using a special technology and a little later.
  • Further, the location of the ventilation system is marked, a hole for the chimney is prepared in the wall or ceiling.
  • The next step is to install insulation between the bars of the crate. Usually, stone or basalt wool is chosen for a bath, which reacts less than others to elevated temperatures and humidity.
  • Further, the second layer of the vapor barrier membrane is stretched on top of the insulation.
  • It is fixed on top of it, or one of the other reflective materials is selected.
  • Then settles down place for installation of the furnace - base and walls.
  • The rest of the floor is laid out with ceramic tiles or, if desired, covered with wooden flooring.
  • The next step is to install the door frame and the door itself.
  • Further, the steam room is sheathed with wooden clapboard - first the ceiling, and then the walls.
  • Then the installation of shelves, other elements of bath equipment is carried out, lamps are installed.

Video: a few sketches of possible options for steam room equipment

This was the general sequence of work. Now about these stages - in more detail.

Step-by-step finishing of the steam room

Electrical part

Electric cables are fixed on the wall under insulation and vapor barrier. The cable must be solid throughout, must not have terminal or solder joints, and even more so - twists. After finishing the finishing, the connection points of the lighting fixtures must be very well insulated.


Lighting devices are distributed evenly throughout the room - it can be the illumination of the ceiling, shelves or corner areas. Any lamp must be equipped with a special hermetic cover that will protect the lamp from moisture. If ordinary unprotected lamps are used in the steam room for lighting, they will fail very quickly. It is also quite likely that a short circuit will occur when moisture gets inside the device, and this is fraught with very serious consequences.


The cable is fixed on the wall using special holders or placed in a box, which will create additional protection from the aggressive environment of the steam room.

Sometimes small windows are arranged in the walls of the steam room for lighting, but you need to remember that they will always help speed up the process of cooling the air in the room. So if the window is still planned, then it should be very small in size, no more than 300 × 500 mm, and be sure to close tightly. The best option in this case would be to install a miniature with double-glazed windows.



Installation of the electrical part of the steam room is not particularly difficult, if professional electrician. If the master making the sheathing in the bath is far from this line of work, then it is best to invite a person who knows exactly how this is done to perform them.

Installation of battens on walls and ceilings

The crate on the walls can be mounted vertically or horizontally, and on the ceiling along or across - this moment depends on the chosen direction of the lining.


The crate is made of wooden bars, which should have a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation material.

The location of the elements of the crate (the interval between adjacent guides) is calculated based on the width of the insulation. The bars are placed at a distance that will be 20 ÷ 40 mm less than the size of the insulation material, since the thermal insulator should be as tight as possible.

To protect the crate, walls and ceiling from moisture, as well as the formation of condensate, a vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the bars and the surfaces between them, which will allow the insulation layer to “breathe”.

Determination of a place for the furnace

The "central element" of the steam room is always, therefore, having arranged a crate on the walls, it is necessary to determine the location of the heater and the size of the area under it. Typically, the stove is installed near the outer wall, so the easiest way is to bring the chimney through the wall to the street without damaging the attic floor and roof.


However, it is quite possible to install a traditional vertical pipe that runs through the entire construction of the bath. For it, a specially designed hole is arranged in the ceiling, it is passed through the attic, and then it is passed through the roof and the gaps between the pipe and the roofing material are closed with waterproofing. This option is more difficult in the installation of the chimney, but if you choose it, you can significantly save space in the steam room due to the indentation from the wall.


Having calculated and marked the platform for the heater, you can proceed to planning the ventilation openings.

Openings for ventilation and chimney

Already at the very first stages of the formation of an insulating "pie", it is necessary to immediately indicate the location of the ventilation and chimney openings. Their location directly depends on where the stove will be installed. Since the place has already been determined, you need to refer to the ventilation device diagram. There may be several ventilation openings, but always, one of the windows is at a height of 300 ÷ 400 mm from the floor, and the second is 150 ÷ ​​200 mm below the ceiling.


The lower ventilation window will be located next to or behind the stove, and the upper one on the opposite wall under the ceiling.


Therefore, in these places it is necessary to arrange through holes, and temporarily install a piece of plastic pipe or wooden blocks in them in order to take them into account when installing other layers of insulation and finishing cladding. A special publication of our portal is devoted to the problems.

The hole for the chimney can be made in the ceiling, as mentioned above, or in the wall. For him, as well as for ventilation, they arrange a passage through all layers of insulation. If a hole is made in the wall, a pipe of the desired diameter is also temporarily installed in it. Subsequently, the chimney will need to be separated from combustible surfaces with heat-resistant gaskets.

More details from - in a separate special article of our portal.

Insulation installation

Installation of insulation material is first made on the ceiling. If necessary, it is temporarily fixed with a thin but strong rope, which is fixed with a stapler on the crate.



On top of the insulation is covered with another layer vapor barrier membranes. It can be replaced with foil film, or you can use them in combination.


The advantage of using foil is that it has the ability to reflect heat inward, thus keeping it indoors as much as possible and not allowing the walls to cool.

These layers are stretched and fixed to the walls and ceiling with an overlap, which should be at least 200 mm, and fixed to the crate with brackets using a stapler.


Then the joints of the individual canvases are glued with waterproof foil tape.


The slats of the counter-lattice will help to finalize the insulating “pie”

On top of these layers, rather thin wooden slats are often fixed (elements of the so-called counter-lattice), which will more securely fix these materials on the main crate.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Arrangement of walls and floors at the installation site of the stove-heater

Before installing in place, it is necessary to expand the hole designed to bring the chimney to the street and equip it with a heat-resistant gasket that will protect combustible walls from overheating. If the bath is built of brick or stone, then the pipe can be removed without preliminary preparation of the hole.

After carrying out these works, the walls are finished with reliable non-combustible material. Most often they are sheathed with asbestos slabs, in which a hole is made in the right place and combined with a hole for the pipe.


The walls can then be clad with ceramic wall tiles, such as natural stone or baked brick imitations.


The base for the heater must be raised above the rest of the steam room floor by 200 ÷ 250 mm, so it is used porcelain stoneware or thick floor tiles.

After that, the rest of the floor surface is laid out - either a high-quality flat board is suitable for this. Traditionally, wood flooring is used for the steam room floor, but tiles will last longer.


By the way, if a decorative coating is made of ceramic tiles, then it is easy to install special removable wooden gratings on it.

Prices for a range of floor tiles

Floor tile

Door frame installation and door trim

Next, it is necessary to carry out measures to install the door frame and. This is done before the wall cladding, so that it is possible to close the fasteners and the closed gaps between the walls and the box with a clapboard.


A poorly fitted door and its poor-quality installation can cause a room to cool down, so you need to foresee and take into account some points that will help avoid heat leakage:

  • The door should open outwards, not towards the steam room.
  • On the door, from its outer side, special slats are fixed, which will protrude beyond the perimeter of the door leaf by 20 ÷ 30 mm. When closed, they will bridge the gaps between the frame and the door, fitting snugly against the jamb.
  • The threshold is made 100 ÷ 120 mm above the floor surface.
  • During installation, the gaps between the box and the wall opening are hermetically sealed.
  • You can install a wide baguette of the door trim from the inside of the steam room, thereby creating an additional obstacle to the penetration of cold inside.
  • It is very important that the door is a reliable keeper of hot air and steam inside the steam room. Therefore, the door is often first sheathed with heat-insulating material and only then decorated with clapboard.

Very often recently, to create a tightness of the room, they use metal-plastic door options, and, although this is not at all traditional for Russian steam rooms, it must be said that they work efficiently. Moreover, it is quite possible to order a decorative sheathing of a metal-plastic structure with a wooden clapboard. Moreover, it is even recommended to do so that the metal on the door does not overheat.

Decorative ceiling and wall cladding and completion

To cover the steam room, you need to choose the “right” tree that will create a healthy atmosphere inside the room - it can be oak or linden, larch or cedar. Particularly resinous species of coniferous trees, such as pine, are absolutely not suitable. The latter, when heated, can release resin drops, which can even accidentally burn you.


Start covering from the ceiling. The lining is installed on the crate according to the "groove-thorn" system, and fastened with the help of special metal holders (kleimers). It is in them that nails or staples are hammered, then becoming invisible, since To the leimer is covered with a spike of the next lining panel.


Having installed the lining on the ceiling, they proceed to work on the walls. Sheathing goes in parallel with the installation of shelves and is carried out in a certain sequence:

  • First, using a level and a marker, the surface of the walls is marked. The stepped design of the shelves is placed in two or three levels, depending on the height of the ceiling of the room.
  • It is necessary to determine at what height the shelves will be located, their width and configuration. The width of the shelves usually varies from 400 to 600 mm, depending on what size of these elements allows you to make the area of ​​​​the steam room. The bottom shelf must be arranged no lower than 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.
  • Further, the material is prepared - the boards and bars prepared for the manufacture of shelves, as well as lining panels, are sawn.

  • It is also necessary to have a special device (measurement), which will be measured gaps between boardswhich the seats and side walls of the shelves are assembled.
  • If necessary, additional bars are attached to the wall, which will form a reliable base for the shelves.
  • When installing the lining, you must not forget to drill holes in the right places to bring the electric cable out, as well as cut openings for installing ventilation doors or other devices.
  • The next step is to install the lining on the walls under the frame for the shelves, it is fixed in the same way as on the ceiling.
  • Next, the side and front of the shelves are sheathed, while not forgetting to measure the distance between the sheathing boards. Such gaps are necessary for the free circulation of air in any direction, as well as for the speedy drying of the wood after the next “session” of using the bath.
  • Sheathing boards are fixed above the frame bar exactly to the thickness of the boards from which the seat of the element will be assembled.
  • Next, a seat is assembled, the boards of which are also fixed at a certain distance, which is controlled by a measure. The boards are fixed on slats laid perpendicular to them, having a thickness of 8-10 mm, then they are laid and screwed to the stepped structure.
  • After laying the seat, a lining is installed on the wall, which is located behind and above the seat.
  • When the shelves are mounted, and a lining is fixed around them on the surface of the walls, the remaining walls are sheathed.

Before the final lining of the clapboard on the walls, there should be such a “pie”
Prices for lining, timber imitation, block house

Clapboard, timber imitation, block house

  • The penultimate stage in the design of the steam room is the fixing of floor skirting boards. If necessary, these elements are also installed in corner joints. It should be noted that these cladding details are used only as a last resort, if the lining at the junctions of the planes is adjusted inaccurately. However, it must be remembered that it is better to do without them, since moisture will accumulate in the gaps between the baseboards and the main skin, which over time will contribute to the emergence of fungal or mold colonies.

At the end of the work, ventilation doors and lighting fixtures are installed. It is important to remember that the wire connections to the fixtures must be carefully insulated.

After installing lamps and ceiling lamps, electrical cables are connected to the power supply and switches, which are recommended to be provided outside the steam room.

The last step is to install the furnace and connect it to the chimney.

Seen: a visual lesson on the equipment and decoration of the steam room

In the presence ofinstructions for the process of finishing the steam room, the necessary tools and high-quality materials, it is quite possible to carry out such work on your own. However, I would like to remind you that it is recommended to entrust electrical work to a specialist who will make reliable insulation of all luminaire connections, as well as professionally perform cable connections to the power supply system.

Something similar can be noted about the system for removing combustion products from the furnace. The chimney also "really dislikes" the amateurish approach, because often the safety of the building, the health and even the life of the owners of the bathhouse will depend on the quality of the work performed.

The steam room is the most important room of the bath, because there is no bath without a steam room. Traditionally, for convenience, additional spaces are designed around this small room, which can be quite a lot: a sink, a shower room, a relaxation room, a pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to finish the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will be not just an external decoration of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of tasks:

  • walls are being prepared;
  • thermal insulation is applied;
  • thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
  • external finishing is carried out;
  • design developments are brought to life, which give the interior completeness and aesthetics.

Finishing the steam room is divided into several important stages and takes place sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. So the first two important steps are:

  • the choice of a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless with temperature changes;
  • selection of the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

Baths are built from century to century, the ancestors used natural materials for their insulation: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and as environmentally friendly as possible, they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. For warming the steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the manufacture of which rock waste is used as a feedstock. Such material is produced both in rolls and in plates. It is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms, environmental, durable.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply indispensable for thermal insulation of those places of the wall and ceiling, which are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rot, withstands the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to the location of the steam room.

Basalt wool - technical characteristics of the insulation

As for the most effective at one hundred percent humidity and maximum temperatures, foil films become.



Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

The choice of material for finishing

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, they take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but operational qualities are considered the main ones:

  • hygiene,
  • resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
  • safety and complete absence of toxins,
  • durability and reliability.

Attention! In the production of a steam room, it is forbidden to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various kinds of wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances emitted by artificial materials can seriously harm health.

The most suitable for finishing the steam room are lining, wooden boards, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used to build Russian baths and Finnish saunas. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwoods, as they do not emit resin when heated.



  1. Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength, such a tree does not rot or crack.
  2. Clapboard made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give relaxation.
  3. Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, this breed is very durable.
  4. The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Deciduous species dry out quickly and therefore the fungus does not threaten them. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots that can be harmful to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause severe burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, be sure to check the pine boards for the presence of so-called "tar pockets".

The decoration of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.



Prices for lining

Preparation for finishing work

Installation work begins after the supply of electricians, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.




For finishing you will need such materials and tools:

  • building level,
  • bonding device,
  • perforator,
  • screwdriver,
  • hammer,
  • lining under the crate,
  • clamps and screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, they start work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To avoid heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled with wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently appear at different heights.



Installation of the crate and insulation

No. p / pIllustrationA comment
1 To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which was previously leveled.
2
And then a crate of timber is attached. Well-dried beams of 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm are used without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The distance during installation should not be more than 1 m. It is great if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3 First, guides are mounted on the wall according to the level. After that, according to the principle of racks, the extreme bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4 Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that is formed between the floor plane and the rack provides for the "movement" of the tree during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is closed with a plinth).
After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach smaller bars to them.

This method of fastening is called floating, it will help to avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire crate is adjusted to the level and fixed, if necessary, linings are used.

For semicircular or curved surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole bar, but parts of it.
5 A heater is placed in the constructed frame.

Over time, mineral wool can slip or deform, so it is fixed with polypropylene twine.

6 Then, with a rough side, a second layer of vapor barrier is placed to the insulation, it is fixed with a stapler.
7 So that the tree is not subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing a wood preservative

The acquired wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, pathogens and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When buying, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Of the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, they can be fire-retardant and protect the affected areas of the tree. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for the steam room and protects the wood from decay.


Neomid 200 - impregnation

100% natural linseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the most successful ecological choice.



Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Due to the high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensate, prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stain, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

SATU SAUNAVAHA - wax

Prices for antiseptics for wood

wood preservative V33

Treating wood with an antiseptic

For work you will need:

  • short-haired brush or brush,
  • White Spirit,
  • warm water,
  • soap.

The surface to be treated must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will lie more tenaciously.

It is necessary to impregnate the timber and lining from all sides, after which the tree should dry out (48 hours). It is recommended to heat linseed oil TM "GreenTherm" before use in a steam bath to 40 ° -45 ° C. It can be applied to the surface with a brush or a rag.

Attention! The brush should only be shorthaired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a brush with long hair is not suitable for work.

Excess oil, which the wood has not absorbed, is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between the application of 2-3 layers, technological breaks are observed for at least 12 hours. Especially carefully process the ends of the boards and timber. Drying takes 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of no more than 65%. Excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as you like, in accordance with the artistic design intent. But when finishing a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unequally, because at the top of the room - the highest temperature, and at the bottom - the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is uneven, the boards will very quickly "lead" high humidity. The logical choice is the horizontal placement of the boards.

If the lining is fixed horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along the entire length, bending deformation does not appear. Of course, different trim elements, depending on their location, will be in completely different conditions, but this will not affect the overall appearance of the skin at all.

Lining fastening

Before starting work, you need to measure the steam room and cut the lining of the desired height.

The choice of type of fastening depends on the air temperature in the room.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps, not nails. Finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so you can get burned from them. Kleimers are completely invisible, while the lining fixed by them can be dismantled and mounted several times.

The lining of the steam room is made from the stove and bypasses the room around the perimeter. The correct mounting direction is from top to bottom.

The board is fastened with a groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The boards of the lining are assembled "groove into thorn", like a designer.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will drain freely, without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from decay. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws, in which case they can be easily dismantled and replaced without disassembling the entire sheathing structure. On the doorway, the trim is nailed using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the lining and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the wood will begin to rot on the reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One smart solution is to lay out a row of tiles where the walls meet the floor.

Video - Finishing the bath

Choice of tiles or stone

For a good bath, with the smell of natural wood, steamed broom and aromatic oils, tiling with natural stone is suitable: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials withstand the highest temperatures, have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for flooring and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic decoration is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made of clay have been considered the standard of environmental cleanliness; they do not emit any odors and fumes at all. For finishing the steam room, products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient are chosen. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors, it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video - Finishing inside the bath + ceiling insulation

Tile installation

For an area of ​​about 6 square meters, you need to prepare:

  • level and tape measure
  • 6 square meters of ceramic or stone tiles,
  • three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
  • one pack of Terracotta grout,
  • drill for stirring with a nozzle,
  • construction gun,
  • hammer,
  • putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant glue from the Terracotta company is used in those areas where the temperature will not exceed 400 ° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic, it is used in places where heating is up to 1100 ° C.

First, prepare the base. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is laid, then a mesh, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

In the photo - waterproofing and mesh for applying the solution

A cement screed is made on the floor, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and a drain should be organized. Twine or fishing line is pulled along the perimeter of the floor or wall, and it will be possible to check the correct installation.

Before starting laying, ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

In the production of a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed well, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from the bottom up, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely chopped drywall instead of crosses. When arranging a drain hole on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

The floor tiles are mounted on glue with sand, glue without sand can shrink. All other rows are placed on the level already created with a bias.




On the reverse side of each tile, the mortar is applied in such a way that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed to the floor. Then it is seated with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant grout "Terracotta" is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400 ° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is poured with water and mixed with a mixer. After that, the solution can be filled into the tube of the gun, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! Grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only after that it is easy to remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work was completed, it is already possible to carry out the first firebox.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room

Russian bath is an excellent way to get rid of all everyday problems and relax your body and soul. But how complete the bathing process will be, first of all, depends on the interior decoration of the bath, that is, how comfortable it is and meets all the wishes of the owner. Further, in the material with photos and videos, we will talk about how to make a bath inside, and what materials can be used for this.

First of all, it is worth saying that the process of interior decoration includes its complete arrangement, starting with the installation of vapor barrier and ending with the assembly and installation of furniture and decorative elements. If you have construction skills, you can do all the finishing work of the bath yourself, otherwise, it is better to use the services of professionals.

Decoration Materials

Any internal work in the bath begins with the selection of suitable materials. Finishing the bath with wood is one of the most common options, especially for the steam room. However, there are a number of restrictions for this room, so not every material can be used in it.

This is due to the operating conditions of the steam room - an increased level of humidity and high temperature indicators. In such a microclimate, a number of materials begin to release toxic substances that are harmful to health.

For finishing the steam room, you can not use the following types of materials:

  1. Pine board, which, with increasing temperature, begins to release resins that can be dangerous to humans.
  2. Chipboard or chipboard. In addition to the fact that such materials begin to swell at high humidity, they also begin to release toxins that are part of the adhesive mixtures for their production.
  3. Linoleum is also prone to release toxins, and is also prone to decay and deterioration.


But the decoration of the bath inside in the dressing room and the rest room may well be made of such materials. The dressing room trimmed with pine boards will be especially comfortable. They will give the air in the room a light coniferous aroma and a real Russian flavor.

Optimally for wall decoration in the bath, it is in the steam room that larch and linden are suitable. Preferably, of course, larch, which is resistant to high temperatures and humidity, and is very durable. However, in the absence of such, linden wood can also be used.

It is better to use a tree for lining a bath with your own hands in the form of a lining. These lightweight panels can be attached conveniently, are breathable and can be easily replaced if damaged. And since a heater will be located under the lining layer, it can be considered an almost ideal material for finishing the steam room.

Bath decoration technology

Whatever materials the construction of the bath is made of, the finishing is carried out using approximately the same technology. Although it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the nuances of the process before starting work.

You need to move in the process of work from the bottom up, that is, from the floor to the ceiling.


The need for vapor barrier is directly related to what types of bath finishes were used. So, if inside the bath is sheathed with wood, then a vapor barrier is not needed, since the wood "breathes".


But if the bath is brick, then vapor barrier will be required if special ventilation holes are not provided. In any case, it is better to consult with experts on this issue.

Finishing the bath with ceramic tiles

The main advantage of the tile is its functionality and low cost. It is optimally suited for flooring in a dressing room or rest room. It is very durable, not affected by moisture and temperatures, does not collapse, and is easy to maintain. In addition, tiles allow you to create an original interior.

Tiles can be divided into two categories:

  • with glaze, that is, enamelled;
  • without glaze.

Ceramic bath tiles should be glazed, as they are better able to withstand fluctuations in temperature and humidity, unlike unglazed ones.


It is worth remembering that it is better to tile the floor in the bath with tiles with a rough textured surface, which will prevent slipping and avoid injury.

This rule also applies to wall cladding, as condensation accumulates on them. Be careful not to slip or fall.

Another point regarding the choice of tiles for the bath concerns its base. It is advisable to purchase a material with a smooth base that will fit snugly to the floor and will not cause mold to spread.


The shape of ceramic tiles for a bath can be square, rectangular, and complex geometric shapes. However, in the absence of much experience, it is better to stop at a rectangular tile, which is the easiest to lay.

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to determine the exact amount needed for cladding. And you need to purchase 5-10% more material in case of scrap, trimming or damage.


The sequence of laying ceramic tiles is as follows:

  1. The tile is soaked in water for several minutes, so that the glue sets better with its base. This minimizes the consumption of adhesive during installation.
  2. Having determined the most noticeable corner in the room from the entrance, the tiles begin to be laid from there.
  3. Glue is applied to each tile using a notched trowel. Having applied it to the floor, the edges of the tile are tapped with a mallet so that the glue is evenly distributed and excess air comes out.
  4. Crosses will help to ensure uniform seams between the tiles.
  5. As the glue dries, the crosses are removed. And when everything is completely dry and the tiles have set, the joints can be filled with the grout of your choice.

It is noteworthy that ceramic tiles look equally good on the floor and on the walls. The mosaic looks especially advantageous and original. If the tiles need to be cut when laying, then special tools will help to cope with this task.


The final stage of finishing the bath inside will be the selection of furniture suitable for the interior.

If you have already completed the construction of the bath, then it's time to decide what will be its interior decoration. It is worth noting that the design should be not only functional, but also beautiful, and more importantly, durable. Given this circumstance, you should find out how best to line the interior of the bath, starting from the ceiling and ending with the floor. Finishing work should be taken seriously, because your comfortable rest will depend on their quality.

Material selection

Now on sale there is a huge amount of building materials with which you can decorate different rooms with your own hands. It is best to stay on wooden materials. Why? It's simple, because it is wood that is a natural material that meets the sanitary and hygienic requirements for finishing rooms with high humidity and temperature.

In the implementation of internal cladding, the main role is played by the choice of material for the ceiling and walls of the bath. You don't have to limit yourself to just one type of tree. Combinations of different types of wood will look more harmonious. In addition, it is worth considering the individual properties of this environmentally friendly natural material. Unlike its synthetic analogues, wood does not emit harmful substances during the heating process. It has excellent characteristics, is a durable material, retains heat and has a small coefficient of thermal expansion. In the old days in Russia, only certain types of wood were used for interior decoration of baths. Among them were cedar, linden and larch. Today, many experts have begun to recommend the use of the abachi tree. It has excellent properties and is ideal for interior decoration. A significant drawback of the material is the high cost, so not everyone can afford such a luxury.

In order to save money, you can use more inexpensive varieties for finishing work in the dressing room and rest room. There are no high temperatures, so pine is quite suitable here. The texture of the material is attractive, pine is processed very easily and is relatively inexpensive. The use of pine in the steam room is impossible for the reason that when the wood is heated, resin is released from it, which causes a lot of inconvenience. Most often, as practice shows, washing and steam rooms are lined with larch and linden. These types of wood perfectly retain color and do not heat up much when temperatures rise. If you touch such a skin, you will not get burned.

It is also important to think about how to make shelves in the bath. They are needed so that you can arrange all the necessary accessories and accessories. If the bath room is small, then do not clutter it with a large number of these items, because this way, you will only increase the possibility of injury when taking procedures in the bath.

  • Cedar resistant to moisture and heat. In the process of heating, the wood releases the aromas of essential oils, which are so beneficial to the human body. But if you decide to choose this material, then pay attention to possible resin smudges.
  • Abashi native to the West African tropics. The material has low thermal conductivity, practically does not heat up at high temperatures. Color is a pleasant yellowish. The texture is not pronounced, homogeneous.
  • Linden when heated, as most masters know, it releases essential oils that have a pleasant delicate aroma that has a beneficial effect on a person. Linden does not darken even over time. It is often used for finishing washing and steam rooms.
  • Larch perfectly tolerates extreme changes in temperature and humidity, present in the steam room and washing. Differs in a rich tint palette and natural gloss. If you need to sheathe the ceiling, then edged or tongue-and-groove larch boards are best suited for this. If you choose needles for this purpose, then it is likely that when heated, resin will be released from it, which, when drained from the ceiling, will burn the skin.
  • Aspen does not rot, is not affected by fermentation fungi and mold. This tree species has a positive effect on health: it relieves discomfort in the joints and headaches. She most often trim the ceiling in the bath.

Note! Wood for interior cladding must not be varnished or painted. Otherwise, when heated, the chemical coatings will evaporate, poisoning the air.

Wall and ceiling decoration in the steam room

For a steam room, you should not skimp, here the interior decoration of the bath should be carried out from the highest quality wood, because it is in this place that the highest temperatures and humidity are. As a rule, the steam room is upholstered with clapboard. Boards are fastened with flush nails. Steam insulation work is necessary to keep steam and heat in this room. This is done using modern materials that are widely available on the market. It can be glassine or foil, and jute and cotton wool are most often used as insulation. It is possible to replace these standard materials with their combined analogue, for example, foamed polypropylene covered with foil. It combines vapor barrier and thermal insulation properties. Another option: foil penofol. With it, you can seal the room, in addition, the material is convenient and practical for installation.

Note! The lining should not be adjacent to the layer of foil with insulation closely. There must be an air gap between them. This is usually achieved due to the fact that the lining is mounted on a timber crate installed in advance.

The crate is mounted on the walls parallel to the floor. The distance between the slats is approximately 50 cm. All work must be carried out on a level in order to obtain a perfectly even structure. After the frame is ready, it should be covered with an antiseptic. It is also necessary to process the lining, this is done before the start of its installation. Laying lining starts from the corner. Not only nails, but also clamps and staples can be used as fasteners.

The material that is used for wall decoration is also used for upholstery of the ceiling. It is worth noting that the maximum temperature is under the ceiling, so the wall paneling for it should be made of rock that contains the least amount of resin. Otherwise, as mentioned above in the article, dripping resins will burn people. You can not use pine and spruce for the steam room. They can upholster a dressing room, for example.

Floor arrangement. Wood or tile?

The temperature at floor level very rarely exceeds 30°C, which means that such floors can remain clay, earth and concrete. The main thing is that a quick outflow of water from the bathhouse is organized. For safe movement, it is necessary to cover the subfloor with plank flooring, fiber matting or a cork safety cover. A sanded board and tile can also be used for this purpose.

Note! If we compare the properties of tiles and boards, then the first material, of course, is more durable than the second. Tiles are not afraid of high humidity. In addition, the wooden floor will look dirty, as it is difficult to clean.

The technology of wood flooring is very simple. First, you should lay the logs, and then install the wooden boards. Logs are laid on brick columns installed on a concrete or sandy base. The size of these logs can be 20 × 20 or 25 × 25 cm. The laying step can be close to one meter, because the floor will not be subjected to heavy loads. For the floor, a cut or tongue-and-groove board can be used. In order to keep the heat in the steam room, the floor covering in it must be at least 15 cm above the floor level in the washing room. The thickness of the floorboards is approximately 30 cm. Both the boards and the logs must first be treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent growth of mold and fungus.

Note! The wooden floor is appropriate in the rest rooms and locker rooms. However, it is better to lay tiles in the washing room and steam room, because the wood will quickly deteriorate.

To lay tiles, you must first make a floor screed. The surface should be as flat as possible. The tile is laid on a special glue. Moisture-resistant grout is used to process the seams. This will protect the tile from mold. However, on such a floor, you will still need to put low wooden shields or gratings, which should be taken out after the bath procedures so that they dry out. This is necessary so that no one slips. The floor should be made with a slight slope for draining. In this case, excess moisture will not stagnate.

Wash room finishing

The modern washing compartment is a shower cabin, which is equipped with several shelves for folding small accessories. For the arrangement of the washing room, moisture-resistant finishing materials should be used, for example, tiles, self-leveling floors and tiles. They are durable and strong. In order to prevent visitors from slipping on the tiles, rubber mats or wooden slatted supports should be used in the washing room.

If you are an admirer of the classic Russian bath, then the washing room can be finished with wood that has undergone special processing. The temperatures here are not as high as in the steam room. Therefore, coniferous wood can be used for the washing room and dressing room.

You can carry out interior decoration on your own, without the help of specialists. After you have done the ceilings, floors and walls, you will also need to make furniture for the bath and think over the lighting. And then proceed to the bath procedures, enjoy ablutions, enjoying the rest with family and friends. If you have any other thoughts or questions on this topic, then write comments on this article. The specialists working on the site will be able to pay attention to you and answer all your questions.

Video

See how the bath is sheathed inside with an unedged board - an inexpensive, but nice option:

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