Handmade wooden spoon. The road is a spoon not only for dinner: do-it-yourself wooden spoons Do-it-yourself tool for carving spoons

Everyone can and should carve a wooden spoon, according to the author.
He collected spoons from all over the world for a while (see second photo) and has always been interested in strange spoons.
At some point, he eventually started making his own spoons.

Making a spoon using the woodcarving method is a long process, but there is still room for creativity in it. This material is intended for beginner carvers.

Tools and materials:

Sharp carving knives, including at least a medium straight knife and a rounded or arrow-shaped knife;
- a piece of soft wood, slightly larger than the size of a spoon;
- Sandpaper with a grit of 80, 120, 220 and 400 units;
- grinding drum of small diameter (2.5 - 5 cm);
- a pen or marker;
- food-safe wood finish (eg wax or mineral oil);

Additional power tools:

grinding machine;
- dremel;
- jigsaw;
- table saw;

(The whole process can be done manually. The author used power tools to create the blank to speed up the process.)

Step 2: Wood

The most important thing to consider when carving a spoon is the type of wood you are going to use. While it is possible to carve almost any kind of wood with the right tools and techniques, some types are easier to work than others. Since this is spoon carving for beginners, we will try to make everything as simple as possible.

The easiest types of wood to process are softwoods, For example:

Linden
- Pine
- cedar
- Red tree
- fir

Hard rocks that are more difficult to process, are:

Oak
- maple
- Walnut
- pink tree
- exotic breeds
- Teak

Follow these general points when choosing a tree:

Cut off a piece of wood and see what kind of wood it is.
Look for a narrow fiber, not a wide fiber - a wide fiber breaks into large pieces.
For a beginner, the easiest way to try woodcarving is lime, so it's best to start with it.

Finally, it should be noted that wood, like many of the substances we live with, can be a potential allergen for certain people. Some woods, such as cocobolo, have dermal and respiratory effects. Other varieties such as cherries are known to be generally safe and inert. Wood dust from almost any type of tree can be harmful to the respiratory tract over a fairly long period of time.

Step 3: Spoon Drawing

Once you've chosen your wood stock (I'm using cherry in the example below), draw a very rough outline of the spoon you'd like to carve. This does not need to be a detailed drawing, as this outline will only be used to create the spoon blank. Drawing the profile of the spoon is desirable but not required.

Spoon size
- spoon head type
- Should it fit in the mouth entirely?
- depth of the concave part
- thickness and height
- intended purpose - salad, soup, etc.

Step 4: Create a Form

If the spoon you want to cut is smaller than the piece of wood you've chosen, use a table saw to cut the piece thinner so less material has to be manually removed when cutting.

Then use a miter saw to cut the pieces of wood to length at the ends of the outline of your spoon.

This is called creating a form.

Step 5: Cutting the Parts

Use a jigsaw to cut the spoon along the outline. It is advisable to cut as close as possible to the sketch of your spoon.

By making the stock slightly larger and thicker than the intended finished spoon, you can always remove the material later.

Step 6: Rough Sanding

This step is completely optional, but the author did it. He used a belt sander to quickly round off the edges and sand down to the contour of the spoon. Anything done with a power tool eliminates the need to do it by hand in the next step of the carving.

Step 7: Moving on to carving

Carving along the handle of a spoon is the easiest place to practice. Start with small particles, removing a small amount of material by cutting away from yourself.

Start removing small pieces of material from the tops of the curved lines. Cutting down, in the notch is more difficult.
Diving the knife downwards usually results in a larger piece of material than intended.

Turning a square block into a smooth spoon takes time - for example, several hours. So don't expect the spoon to instantly take shape. Just slowly move towards the goal.

Step 8: Add More Detail

As the spoon begins to take shape and you start rounding off some of the straight lines in the stock, decisions need to be made regarding:

Handle thickness
- how the handle should taper and fit the hand
- how long should the handle be
How wide should the spoon be?
- whether the spoon will have a curved or flat leading edge
- thickness of the spoon head

The spoon pictured below has a blunt, straight head, more like a spatula, which is good for scraping the bottom of the pot... of course, it's not a very good soup spoon.

Step 9: Back of Spoon Head

Once the handle of the spoon is carved, it's time to start working on the head. It's easier to start with the convex back of the spoon rather than the concave side.

Start removing material around the edges of the workpiece and round off the head of the spoon to make a smooth transition from the back of the spoon to the rim.

Continue rounding the back of the spoon and create an even, continuous slope.

Step 10: The front of the spoon

On the concave side of the spoon - use a rounded arrow knife or hook to begin removing material from the surface of the spoon.

Remove small pieces of wood until a small indentation begins to form. Continue removing material, picking wood closer and closer to the outer wall of your spoon.

A hook knife is useful for shallow hauling, but does not work very well at depth. This is where a dart knife comes in handy.

Step 11: Sanding Finish

Making wooden spoons is a simple and exciting process that allows you to touch the centuries-old traditions of arts and crafts. To create such products, you will need a minimum of tools and materials. Making spoons with your own hands is a great opportunity to hone basic carving skills and get a better feel for how wood and carving tools behave. You can experiment with the shape and size of the spoon, as well as the design of its handle, creating a unique utensil that is not only decorative, but also functional.

In our material, we will tell you in detail how to make a spoon with your own hands, introduce you to the basic carving techniques and answer current questions regarding the manufacture of wooden utensils.

What are wooden spoons made of?

What wood is best for carving wooden utensils? This important question worries all novice carvers. For cutting spoons best fit blanks from hard, but not prickly hardwood - aspen, ash, maple, birch, elm, walnut, cherry or maple.

Beginner carvers it is better to use lime. This wood is softer and lighter, has a uniform density and is well planed in all directions. For gaining experience and practicing basic carving skills, this is the most suitable material. Among other things, linden products are not prone to warping and do not emit tannins.

Coniferous trees unsuitable for the manufacture of spoons because of its high resin content and characteristic odor. Also avoid exotic tropical woods such as teak, which can be toxic.

As a blank, you can use planks or split the whole deck-ridge into small pieces. The first option is more practical, the second is more traditional. The orientation of the wood fibers in the blank determines the symmetry of the pattern of the bowl of the spoon, as shown in the photo.

A set of basic tools

To make a wooden spoon with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of simple tools:

1. Knife. For wood carving, it is better to use the Bogorodsk knife. Its two-sided sharpening makes it equally convenient to work both “on your own” and “on yourself”, and a narrow nose makes it possible to cut wood along internal lines.
2. Spoon cutter (staple). This is a chisel with a sharp bend, designed for scraping wood in recesses and processing the inner walls when carving dishes. An alternative to a spoon cutter can be a wide cranberry or an ordinary semicircular chisel.
3. straight chisel- used for even cutting of solid wood from the workpiece.
4. Clamp- necessary for convenient fixation of a piece of wood.
5. File for roughing and sanding paper of different grits (320, 180 and 120 grit) for perfect sanding of the product.
6. Stichel- a thin steel cutter, for creating decorative carvings on the handle.

How to carve a wooden spoon: step by step guide

1. Using the template, transfer the drawing of the top and side views to the wooden blank. Please note that the orientation of the wood fibers is longitudinal, in this case the spoon will have maximum strength.

1. Having fixed the workpiece with a clamp, proceed to the rough formation of the bowl. For these purposes, a spoon cutter is used, but you can also confine yourself to an ordinary semicircular chisel or a wide cranberry. Wood is sampled in the direction of the fibers. When deepening the bowl, do not forget that you need to leave a small thickness allowance for fine trimming and grinding.

It is much more convenient to gouge a bowl on a rectangular workpiece, since the piece of wood is rigidly fixed and maintains a stable position.

1. When the recess is formed, you can start cutting off the excess array in the horizontal and vertical plane, following the top and side contours. To do this, it is most convenient to use a jigsaw or band saw, but if you wish, you can perform all the manipulations with a straight chisel or hacksaw.

1. Using a Bogorodsk knife, we cut off the convex part of the spoon. With a wide chisel, we give the bowl a perfectly even rounded shape. With the help of a knife and a chisel, we work out the shape of the handle.

1. Using a spoon cutter, finish trimming the bowl and carefully align its edges, as shown in the picture.

1. Grinding is carried out in two or three passes, each time reducing the grain size of the abrasive.

Advice!

When in contact with water, even a perfectly sanded surface can begin to pile. Raised pile does not spoil the appearance of the spoon, but is unpleasant in the mouth. Therefore, if you plan to use your own hand-made dishes for their intended purpose, you can solve this problem in the old proven way. After grinding, the spoon is wetted and thoroughly dried, passing again with a fine-grained abrasive. This procedure is repeated two or three times.

Our version of making a spoon is more of an adapted technique. It is designed to use a modern tool, which, although it simplifies the workflow, but at the same time moves away from the age-old traditions of carving art.

The secrets of the original Russian carving of a wooden spoon - see the video below:

How to cover a wooden spoon for food?

The final touch of creating a wooden spoon is its processing with a finishing compound. And here, as a rule, many questions arise. If you cut out a decorative spoon, then everything is simple: it can be painted with paint, applied with any varnish or waxed. With products that are planned to be used for their intended purpose, everything is more complicated. When choosing a composition for impregnation, it is important that it be practical and safe.

In the Russian tradition, they used and continue to use for processing wooden spoons. This impregnation is environmentally friendly, has antibacterial properties, emphasizes the texture of wood, and is easy to apply. But it will have to be updated periodically. However, using raw linseed oil as a finish, over time, it can begin to transfer an unpleasant rancid smell to food.

A more practical solution is to use special mineral oils to finish wooden utensils. Such impregnation gives the surface water-repellent properties, while it does not form a film - the pores remain open and the wood continues to breathe. Mineral oils do not affect the taste of food and are more persistent.

We spoke in detail about the practicality and food safety of finishing compounds in ours.

The process of making a spoon is simple and unchanged for many centuries.

There is enough information about the spoon business, both in carving textbooks and on the Internet.
However, we can't help but highlight how we make our spoons.

The description of this process will be a kind of "master class" for those who have never made spoons themselves, but want to try to learn how to do it.

So, we choose the material. In our choice of material for spoons, we have so far settled on linden (very soft and pleasant wood for carving) and birch (harder, harder to cut, but very beautiful glossy cut and expressive texture). Spoons can be made from different types of wood, be it oak, alder, cedar, beech, juniper, bird cherry, apple tree, etc. Each breed is good in its own way. Some spoons are very light, some are stronger, some are more fragrant. The choice is yours.
Our blanks are dry linden or birch sticks 5 cm by 2.5 cm and 24 cm long (this is for a large spoon) and 17 cm (for a child's one). On them we apply with a pencil a drawing-outline of the future spoon.

After that, we cut off everything superfluous with an ax, first in one plane, then in another. Here is a nuance. You can do this right away with a knife, but the process will be physically more time-consuming. The ax is faster and more efficient. The more we process with an ax, the less effort there is to refine with a knife.

With a knife we ​​bring the future spoon to an almost full-fledged look (the same rule - the better we bring it with a knife, the less grinding).

The next step is to choose "scooped". It is important not to overdo it here. If you choose too deep (beginner's mistake), then after grinding the walls of the "scoop" will turn out to be too thin, and this will reduce the durability of the spoon.

Well, here is a spoon, only unpolished. If you wish, you can even eat this, but we go further. We grind in several stages. First with large sandpaper, then medium, then fine and finally superfine. The most difficult thing is the scoop, so the purer it is chosen, the easier it is. Here it is, a beautiful, completely ready-to-use, little white spoon. It is not for nothing that spoons at this stage are called “underwear”.
When we started carving spoons. we immediately planned that this work would not become routine, but be as creative as possible, so we began to make our spoons as some kind of carved miniatures. To do this, a drawing is applied to the finished polished spoon (here the imagination is limitless at the level of skill) and cut out. It makes no sense to describe the carving process, since this is a separate topic.
Each spoon has its own style, its own image. And accordingly, various types of carving: embossed, planar, geometric, ornaments, mini sculptures, etc. It depends on the type of carving, respectively, on the image of the spoon itself, whether to grind the carved elements or not. Sometimes you need gloss, and sometimes you want to see, on the carving, traces of how the master's knife was wielding.
Well, now the "Starodubovskaya Spoon" is ready. Now she began her own life, given to her. It remains to be treated with oil.

We take linseed oil, heat it slightly and put a spoon there. After soaking for a short time, dry. Some of the villi on it rear up. All this is polished. The last stage, in its effectiveness, is rather relative. Non-oiled spoons serve just as reliably (if the material is dry), with the only difference being that during the first use they are rougher, but even this is polished over time by the very process of use. So if someone likes pure white spoons, they can safely use them (by ordering untreated with oil in advance).

In everyday life, all people use spoons, perhaps except for representatives of some Asian countries who prefer wooden sticks. And when the question arises in choosing this cutlery, many, without much hesitation, go to the store and buy them, focusing on their taste and budget.

A wooden spoon most often has a decorative function, but can also be used for its intended purpose.

Increasingly, people are attracted to wooden utensils, they have a special flavor and it is very pleasant to eat from them. This article will discuss how to make a wooden spoon with your own hands, without much experience and with a minimum number of tools.

Required Tool

First you need to decide what should be at hand for the manufacture of wooden spoons:

• Bar- not all breeds are equally good for making spoons, it is best to use aspen, birch, cedar or juniper. The log itself should be well dried;
• Marker- or a pencil, it will be needed to mark the contours of the future spoon on the workpiece;
• Axe- it is best to take a small hatchet, with its help the initial preparation of the bar is carried out;
• Knife- should be comfortable and sharp, it will be needed for finer processing of the workpiece;
• Clucars- a special figured chisel, it is distinguished by a modified shape of the working tip. For the manufacture of do-it-yourself spoons, cranberries with an arcuate tip are used;
• Sandpaper- for polishing a spoon;
• Flax oil– coating with linseed oil will serve as protection against the negative effects of water;
• Drill- a special spherical nozzle for grinding rounded surfaces is sold on it. You can also use a drill to drill a hole for a hook in the handle of a spoon.

DIY step-by-step instructions for making a wooden spoon

Choice of wood

In order for the spoon to be comfortable and practical, it is important to choose the right type of wood. You should stop your look at hardwoods so that the future spoon lasts longer.

For a spoon, you should choose cedar, aspen or juniper.

An ideal option would be a pre-prepared and dried birch or aspen log. If you make a spoon from raw wood, then over time it will bend.

Preparation for work

In order to make a wooden spoon with your own hands, drawings and templates for its manufacture should be prepared in advance. Clarity of the process is the key to success in any business.

The place for hand-made wooden spoons must be freed from unnecessary items, leaving only the necessary.

Workpiece characteristics

When making a wooden spoon from a bar, it should be remembered that it must be of a certain size. For a tablespoon, a bar measuring 300x100x60 mm will fit, where the first digit is the length, the second is the width, the third is the thickness.

If you are using a log, then cut it in half and approximate it to the dimensions above.

markup

Using a marker or pencil, draw the outlines of the future spoon well according to the template. There are many options, although you can come up with them yourself.

Primary processing

With a hatchet, chop off excess wood around the drawn contours of the spoon. Process the workpiece without reaching the edges of the spoon outlined with a marker about 8-10 mm. This step is due to the fact that the fibers of the tree can be twisted after drying, and you will chip off the excess, thereby ruining the workpiece.

Cut the workpiece a little more than the markup, taking into account the final grinding of the product.

It is important to observe safety precautions! Working with an ax in the process of making spoons with your own hands is the most dangerous, carelessness can lead to injury. Watch your fingers before the ax strike!

At the same time, try not to make a margin of more than 1 cm, the process of processing with a knife is more laborious. The more accurately you prepare the workpiece with a hatchet. The less work there is.

Cavity in a spoon

Arm yourself with cranberries and without a hammer, and relying only on the strength of your hands, begin to gradually choose a "hole" in the workpiece. For more accurate work, it is better to draw the wall thickness. The best handmade craftsmen have very thin walls, 4-5mm thick, if this is your first work, then it is better not to risk it and make the walls 7-8mm. You should go deeper, focusing on your own preferences and the thickness of the workpiece.

If there is not enough imagination, then you can draw a circle of the recess by making a template taken from the finished wooden spoon. You can see the solution in the video attached to the post.

Knife processing

Secondary processing will give the wooden spoon an almost final look. The knife should have a short but sharp blade. Carefully cut off any excess. As mentioned above, you can give the shape of a wooden spoon whatever you want, only the imagination and abilities of your hands will become a limitation.

Comment! If you make a spoon with your own hands in nature for urgent purposes, then processing with a knife will be quite enough, eating an ear from roughly processed dishes is even more pleasant.

Many people make the mistake of cutting wood by pointing a knife at extra sections and hitting it with a hammer. This is not worth doing, because of the same twisted fibers. By doing this, you run the risk of ruining the spoon.

The recess in the spoon is most convenient to “choose” with cranberries.

The shape of the handle can also be any, if you want to make a set of wooden spoons, then all typical elements should be in equal proportions, especially handles. To do this, draw templates or download drawings from the Internet. Although a self-made original template will please the eye much more.

Processing the back of a wooden spoon is one of the most crucial moments. Many amateurs, when making their first sample by hand, try to make the spoon too elegant and remove the extra layer in the process of processing.

Important to remember! Wood is a specific material, it is heterogeneous, knots can be found in it, or there may be hidden cavities. When cutting the back side with a knife, be very careful, you can ruin the spoon in the final stage of processing.

Interior surface treatment

For this, a special nozzle on a drill is best suited, they are different. The essence of processing is to grind the concave surface of the spoon without damaging it.

If you do not have a round nozzle, you can replace it with a rubber one with a mount for a sandpaper petal. But in this case, be very careful during the grinding process, you can’t put pressure on the drill, otherwise the fastening bolt, located in the middle of this nozzle, may leave deep grooves on the surface of the spoon.

To fix the spoon should be placed in a vise, holding it in your hands is very dangerous, because the drill can come off and injure you. But it is necessary to fix it with the help of gaskets, this will avoid damage to the surface of the spoon with the vise jaws.

Spoon grinding

One of the most enjoyable processes in making a spoon with your own hands. If you have little experience in working with wood, most likely after processing with a knife, the spoon remained far from ideal. Sandpaper grades from P240 to P280 will help remove irregularities; it is ideal for working with hardwoods.

Grinding is the final stage of manufacturing, performed with sandpaper.

Finer grinding should be done with grades P400 - P600, with their help you can prepare the surface for painting or varnishing.

Water protection

A handmade wooden spoon will serve its owner for a long time if he takes care of its protection from water in a timely manner.

As you know, when regularly wet, wood deteriorates! A variety of oils are used for coating, linseed, tung and others. The choice lies with the manufacturer.

Processing a spoon with oil is not difficult at all, especially if you have made a hole in its handle. In this case, you can completely process the spoon suspended by the hook. After drying, apply another layer of oil on its surface.

We hope the question of how to make a wooden spoon with your own hands is completely settled. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this process, and perhaps making wooden utensils will become your new hobby.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden spoon

Today I want to talk about how to carve a wooden spoon. Six months ago, I suddenly really wanted to make something out of wood. And to do it not just like that, but with benefit. Of course, one of the most popular items in this case is the wooden spoon. Before getting down to business, I read various articles, but many of them seemed too complicated and after reading them it was not entirely clear from which side to approach the manufacture of a wooden spoon. In fact, everything turned out to be much simpler and you need to read less and try more. So let's go.

To make a wooden spoon, we need the following items:

• Material (wood)
• Ax (optional)
• Spoon cutter
• Sandpaper

Training

Material

The very first mistake I made when making the first spoon was the wrong choice of wood. I took a piece of pine board of unknown age and began to cut from it. Pine is a soft tree, I thought, so it should be fine. But in reality it turned out to be not normal, but damn difficult, and I never finished the first spoon. In general, no dried wood, boards from the store, etc.

To make a spoon, we need a fresh (not dried) tree, preferably a soft breed. There is a lot of information about tree species, so you can familiarize yourself with and choose the soft wood species that is most available in your area. Oak makes very strong and beautiful spoons, but first, take something softer. I really like spruce or pine, their smell and pleasant feeling when cutting.

An important point is the tree search itself. I urge you not to cut down the first live tree you see, but to take the time to look for a tree that has been recently felled, cut down by others, and is abandoned or dying. It is rather sad to see good trees thoughtlessly cut down to make natural and eco-friendly crafts. For me, the search for material is also a kind of process and can take several hours, or maybe days. In general, take care of nature and use its resources wisely.

Tool

Saw

To make a spoon at home, absolutely any hacksaw is suitable. But when searching for material or cutting a spoon in field conditions, it is best to have a compact folding hacksaw. An excellent choice for reasonable money is the Bahco Laplander saw, which I can safely recommend for purchase.

Axe

Above, I indicated that the ax is optional. This is because when making a small wooden spoon, you can easily get by with a saw and a knife. The ax becomes relevant when it is necessary to make a large spoon or mug (kuksu) and greatly saves time during the primary (roughing) processing of the workpiece. I use a Fiskars X-7 axe.

Knife

Perhaps most of the work when carving a wooden spoon is done with a knife. The knife should be fixed blade, short in length and moderate in width. Carbon steel blades have excellent cutting qualities. Do not think that a good knife will be expensive. For 400-500 rubles you can buy a wonderful Morakniv Basic carbon knife, which is best suited for woodworking.

Spoon cutter

Although a spoon cutter gets a slightly smaller amount of work than a knife, it will be very difficult to cut a spoon without it. You can do without it and use only a knife. But in this case, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make a rounded spoon, and the process itself will not be easy. Somehow, for the sake of experiment, I tried to make a spoon without a spoon cutter and it turned out to be a rather convenient spoon for coffee or spices. But to make a real spoon, so that you also enjoy the process, the presence of a spoon cutter is a must.

I wasn't sure if I would enjoy carving spoons, and doubted if I wouldn't give up on the first try. Therefore, I decided to save money and bought an inexpensive Tatyanka spoon cutter. My first mistake was the wrong choice of material, but the second was the purchase of this spoon cutter. I somehow made a few spoonfuls for them. It blunted very quickly, sharpened badly, and was small in size. In general, I suffered pretty much and in the end it broke down, could not stand it. To replace him, a Morakniv 164 spoon cutter was purchased. And then I realized that this is happiness. After Tatyanka, I had the feeling that Mora was cutting wood like butter, which was an incredible pleasure when making the first spoons with Mora's help. I highly recommend purchasing a Morakniv 164 even if you are just starting out, as a bad cutter can simply discourage you from doing anything further. You can also look at the Morakniv 162, which features a double-edged blade, which is sometimes very handy.

Process

Finally, we got to the very process of making a simple wooden spoon, which is very convenient to use for sugar, salt, coffee and other spices.

We will not immediately try to make a large spoon, let's start with a small one, 15-17 cm long. To do this, we need a bar of the appropriate length and a diameter of 4-5 cm. Saw it off and remove the bark with a knife.

Now you need to make one of the sides of the log flat. To do this, we cut off an extra tree with a knife about ⅓ along the entire length.

We give a rounded shape to one of the ends of the log (where it will scoop). While rather rough, but as symmetrical as possible.

It is time to take the spoon cutter and begin to make a recess with gentle circular motions. Not all the way yet, but not quite superficial either. I usually do the deepening in several passes, alternating with the processing of other parts of the product.

Having achieved a result approximately as in the photo, you can proceed to give the workpiece a final look by gradually chipping with a knife.

Now it looks like a spoon. You can proceed to the holder (handle) and, if desired, make a decorative pommel.

Now it is no longer something similar, but a real spoon that you can take and use. But somehow she is all rude and clumsy. Having a bite to eat in the field will do, but giving one like this is somehow not very good. To give the spoon an attractive look, we will use sandpaper (skin). It is advisable to have a skin of different grain sizes in your arsenal and start processing the largest one and finally fine-tune it.After 10 minutes of processing, the spoon takes on a completely personal appearance and it is no longer a shame to give one.

A small wooden spoon usually does not require special conditions for drying and dries normally even at fairly low humidity in a city apartment. Do not deliberately place a freshly cut spoon in a very dry place, this will speed up its drying and can cause cracks. When making a large spoon, the risk of cracking increases, so I recommend immediately after use, wrap the product with a dry cotton cloth and put it in a plastic bag. Once a day, change the fabric to dry and repeat this for several days. The more massive the product, the more demanding it is to the drying conditions. So, for example, when making a wooden mug (kuksa) of a large size, drying in this way can last from three weeks, but one and a half months!

You can stop there, but if you plan to use a spoon for liquid foods, then it is best to soak it with linseed oil. Impregnation is done after complete drying. You can also use ordinary vegetable oil, but it goes rancid and the smell from the spoon will not be very pleasant. If the spoon is small, then it will be enough to smear it with heated oil several times with a brush. If the product is quite large or if there is a desire to make the impregnation more thorough, then you can hold the spoon in oil in a water bath for 20-30 minutes. Perhaps I will cover this in more detail in another post.

On this I will finish. Good luck making your first wooden spoon!