Ponds in the country with their own hands. Artificial pond - do-it-yourself device of a reservoir in the country

Let the dacha be a place where work first goes on, and then rest, we do not forget about the beauty that helps us not to lose heart and enjoy every day spent there. Therefore, today we invite you to feel like landscape designers and build a pond in the country with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself pond creation rules and material requirements

A pond in the country is not a luxury, but in some way even a necessity. As the ancient philosophy of Feng Shui says, water near the house brings financial well-being and soothes.

In addition, it allows you to maintain relative humidity in a single area, pleases the eye and allows you to create an original solution in a designated area. Therefore, more and more often summer residents create ponds and ponds with their own hands, as in the photo.

Not everyone on the territory has a reservoir that can be put in order, surrounded by stone and made into an element of the landscape. More often we create a pond in the country with our own hands from scratch, faced with many issues that have to be addressed during construction.

Let's start with the fact that it is necessary to determine the location of the reservoir. For this the following factors should be taken into account:

relief of the territory;
the location of trees and other plants with a powerful root system, as well as foliage;
illumination of the selected area.

Study the terrain carefully. You may already have well-placed indentations, pits, or ruts that you made earlier. All of them will simplify the process of digging the pond itself.

In addition, do not forget that plants tend to grow and take up more and more space underground. The roots can spoil or even destroy the bottom of your pond over time, and the foliage, seasonally falling into the water, will rot and exude an unpleasant odor. Which will require you to pay more attention to the care of the pond, but not the joy of having it. Therefore, before digging, it is worth considering how far trees and bushes are located.

Most landscape designers recommend placing a pond near your home. This will make it easier for you to illuminate it without requiring separate lights and lamps for yourself. In addition, there is always enough free space near the house with natural light, because. there are no tall trees and dense vegetation nearby, blocking the light.

If you have found a place that meets the above requirements, then you can start work.

But for starters, it’s worth stocking up on materials and an approximate design of your future artificial reservoir.

Exists several ways to create a pond with their own hands in the suburban area:

from the finished bowl;
PVC film, polyethylene or rubber;
with the help of available materials.

Besides in addition to materials for the bottom device, you will need:

shovel,
measuring tools,
finishing and decorative materials,
water.

After creating a pond, you can launch fish into it. But then the depth of your artificial reservoir should be at least a meter so that the fish do not freeze in winter.

The order of work on the arrangement of the pond

If you decide to arrange the landscape, choose a place and think about the appearance of your future pond, then first decide the main question - what will it be like? Will you choose a ready-made bowl or cover the excavated pit with foil? It's up to you to decide. And we will help you create it according to all the rules.

We dig in the finished bowl

The prefabricated mold, molded at the factory, is an excellent and simple solution for those who want to enjoy a charming and calm view of the pond after a busy summer day.

Now in specialized stores they offer bowls of different sizes, types and contents. They may be:

simple plastic baths;
containers with several levels of depth;
bowls with complex contours of the coast.

Therefore, everyone will be able to choose the form that best suits the territory and landscape without spending extra time.

In addition, there are other advantages of ready-made bowls:

the plastic form is durable and not exposed to ultraviolet radiation;
the bowl is non-toxic and easy to install;
the average shelf life of this form is calculated in tens of years, which makes the pond durable and of high quality.

The main thing is not to damage the bowl during its installation in the future pond. The form is not subject to repair and restoration. However, if you are building to last, you can pick up a fiberglass bowl, it is famous for its strength and lasts 2-3 times longer.

So, you have chosen a bowl, found a suitable place, cleared it and are ready to create a pond with your own hands in the country. What's next?

First you need to transfer the contours of the bowl to the ground so that it fits exactly into the dug pit. For this you will need:

bowl;
pegs;
shovel;
rope.

To make the contour as similar as possible to the shape of a bowl, you need to install it on the ground and step back 10-20 cm from its edge. Repeating the shape of the bowl, stick the pegs into the ground and pull the rope along them.

So you will get the outlines of your future pond, under which you need to dig a foundation pit 20-30 cm more than the height of the bowl.

Don't forget to keep an eye on the top level. It is very important that the surface of your excavation is even, otherwise the ground around the pond will be wet and viscous all the time, spoiling the appearance of the shore.

When you achieve the desired depth and shape, be sure to sprinkle everything with sand and carefully tamp it down. This sand cushion will become the foundation for your pond. After you can set the form and fill the free space between the side of the bowl and the ground with sand.

When your future pond becomes stable, you can start filling and decorating it.

You can cover the shore with a decorative stone, plant water lilies or other water-loving plants along it. Install small figurines of swans or others created by yourself.

Making a film pond

If for some reason you do not want or cannot buy a finished bowl, then you can always make a pond with your own hands without it.

Enough to stock up:

shovel;
a rope or hose to outline the contour of the future pond;
thick film.

You will need the rest (water, decorative elements and figurines) later, when the main stage is completed - creating a foundation pit for a pond.

As with creating a pond with a finished bowl, first you need to decide on the size of the future reservoir and its contour. Then apply its borders to the ground with a rope or hose, which can simply be laid along the lined border, or can be wrapped around driven pegs.

When you are sure that you like the shape and approximate appearance of the future pond, you can start digging. Here the process will always be the same, because we just need a foundation pit.

The level of the pond should be the same. Therefore, check the evenness of the banks with the help of a building level or a beam laid on both sides of the pit.

When you reach the desired depth, fill the bottom with sand, compact it well, and then lay it with geotextile so that the film does not tear over time. To do this, you can use special material sold in hardware stores, or you can do it on your own. Take, for example, old carpets, rugs, roofing material or linoleum, suitable for the area of \u200b\u200bthe dug pit.

Now that the bottom is ready, measure your future pond and calculate the size of the film you need to create it. Usually, it is enough to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe pit and its depth. After that, add an allowance of 50 cm on each side to strengthen the film along the shore. And you can go shopping.

The film must be very strong and dense in order to withstand the weight of the water that we eventually pour into the pond. Therefore, do not save on this primary material and choose it wisely - the film thickness must be at least 300 microns so as not to tear under constant pressure.

So, as soon as the film is laid out on the bottom:

Flatten it so that there are no folds and swelling.
Line the shore with stones so that when filling it does not gather at the bottom.
Prepare the plants if you want the pond to be with water lilies or other living decor.

The trick of how to arrange plants and flowers in a film pond will be shared with us Maxim Maximov in my master class:

The film pond is quite economical and allows us to create it in any shape and depth, which is impossible to do with a finished mold cast at the factory. That is why many choose this option to create their own reservoir in the country with their own hands.

But do not forget that the deeper you want to make the pond, the more likely it is that the shore may crumble. That is why we recommend that you, after the pit is dug, strengthen its walls. Depending on their height, you can use tiles or slate. And how best to do it, he will tell us Talla Khukhrianskaia in my master class:

When all technical issues are resolved, the pit can be filled with water. To do this, just throw a hose connected to the water supply into it.

In addition to the stone, which has an important function and holds the film on the shore, you can put decorative figurines, flower pots and handicrafts that you have made for giving your own hands. Decorate the pond so that it reflects your creative nature and is pleasing to the eye.

Do not get carried away with decor, because periodically the pond needs to be cleaned so that the water does not fade in it and does not turn a beautiful country pond into a large puddle. And for this, be sure to leave a place on the shore so that you can go to the pond. Better yet, provide a stream that will drain the water.

We create a pond in the country from improvised materials

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to find the right and high-quality building materials, but if the desire to create a pond with your own hands does not go anywhere, do not despair. Simple improvised materials will also come to the rescue, which any summer resident has enough of.

A pond can be made from a variety of things:

from an old car tire;
from an old bathtub left after repair;
from a barrel, basin or bucket.

Bathtub pond...

... from old tires ...

...and from an old barrel

If you really want to create an unusual and original pond, then the lack of capacity will not stop you.

Using old containers

As we have said, a pond can even be made from an old bathtub. After all, in fact, it is no worse than the finished form.

The process of creating such a pond will be similar to the previous ones:

dig a pit under the form;
fill it with sand and make a cement screed;
insert bath;
fill with water.

Due to its weight, the bathtub will sag heavily in the pit, which is why it is recommended to tighten its bottom with cement - to strengthen it. So that over time the pond does not go deeper.

Also, do not spare sand and earth to stabilize the tub inside the pit. For a snug fit of our handy bowl to the shores, fill in all the voids.

And do not leave the side of the bathtub open, it will not look aesthetically pleasing and will spoil the appearance of the future artificial reservoir.

And how to dig a bath and arrange it in a pond with your own hands will clearly show and tell Vitaly KIY in your video tutorial:

However, if your summer cottage is not large enough to have a full-fledged pond on it, do not be discouraged - you can also make a pond with your own hands in the country from small containers, as in the photo.

Take an old metal or wooden basin, a small barrel or tub. All of them can become an original decorative reservoir, which does not even have to be submerged below ground level.

At the little pond from an old basin there are many benefits, so do not deny yourself the joy of creating a modest artificial reservoir, if the area of \u200b\u200bthe site does not allow more:

does not require excessive costs - everything you need for its device is at hand;
it will take a little time to arrange it - from several minutes to a couple of hours, but not a day or more;
it can be placed anywhere;
if you installed the pond on the surface, and did not dig it in, then you can always rearrange it to another place by simply pouring out the water and refilling it after being carried;
it does not require special attention to care - it is enough to change the water from time to time and wash it from the inside so that the bottom is clean.

Ponds from a basin or a small barrel can be installed on a reinforced, flat surface, filled with water and decorated with decorative figurines or flowers.

But if your pelvis has long lost its decent appearance and there is no way to restore its former gloss, then simply dig a small ditch to fit its size, install it there according to the principle of an old bath and overlay it with pebbles along the shore.

As you can see, old containers allow us to fantasize and create incredible ponds with our own hands in a country house of any size. And it helps us realize our creative potential.

Pond to the cottage from the tire

However, if repairs are not planned in the apartment, and the old basins have long been worn out or turned into flower beds, do not despair, you still have a chance to get your own pond.

And for this you will need the most indispensable and affordable material - a car tire. Tires in modern dacha society have long become a universal substitute for building materials.

And no wonder - the strength and shape of the tire allows you to make anything out of it, including a pond. And the size of the future reservoir will depend only on the size of the tire you choose.

First you need to prepare your future container - cut it off along the top edge so that only the sides remain. To do this, you will need a jigsaw or a sharp knife (if you chose a tire from a car).

After you can go to the pond itself.

Installation steps:

Outline the tire and dig a pit along the height of the prepared bowl.
Fill the pit with sand and tamp the bottom.
Insert the cover inside.
Cover the tire and the bottom of the future pond with a thick film.
Fill the edges of the film with sand, and then decorate with turf, stone or embankment so that the film is well fixed.
Fill the pond with water and decorate with pre-designed decor.

Your tire pond is ready. And it will not yield in beauty to either ready-made bowls or large film ponds located in large spaces.

In addition, it is easier to care for and keep clean, and it does not require a lot of water or effort to arrange it.

As you can see, if you have been wanting to feel like a landscape designer for a long time in order to turn your dacha into a beautiful vacation spot where you can not only work, but also enjoy nature away from the noisy city, you can always create a pond with your own hands at no extra cost.

If you like our ideas, check out the other articles in the series!

In the process of creating a pond at your own dacha, many questions arise, and general recommendations are indispensable. Let's consider these questions.

How to make a natural pond?

First, let's define what is meant by this phrase:

How to choose a place and what to provide:

distance from trees, tall shrubs. Water should not clog leaves, branches;
good lighting, direct rays of the sun throughout the daylight hours are unacceptable;
correctly positioned in the lowland so that rainwater does not spill over the territory, but flows into the pond;
the site is chosen flat, with a slight slope.

What to consider so that the reservoir is “alive” and does not rot:

Making a pond

A properly made pond occupies at least a 10th part of the site. Deep - weakly warms up and simply dangerous, shallow - blooms. On the forums of summer residents, they recommend the optimal size of the reservoir 2.5 - 3 m in diameter, 1.5 depth. The pit is dug by hand or with the help of machinery. Next is waterproofing.

Ecopond - involves natural waterproofing, called clay castle. Only this natural material contributes to the life of a living ecological system. This is a good way to make a film-free pond:

How to make a small pond?

There are several simple ways to arrange miniature reservoirs on the site.

Since the shape is a wave-like configuration, transitions are taken into account during instillation. Special steps are made, one wider than the other. After installation, the voids are filled with earth.

The form is set slightly above ground level, a layer of sand of about 20-30 cm is poured under it, but first they make markings on the ground. Then you can start digging a pit. How to do this is clearly visible in the figures below.

How to make a big pond

First mark the contours. For an irregular shape, a regular rope is suitable; for a rectangle, square - pegs are hammered, a twine is pulled between them.
Digging a pit with an excavator. You can calculate its dimensions using the formula for calculating the volume of a truncated cone. This can easily be done on a site like fxyz.ru. It is only necessary to substitute the numbers in the desired line.
Farther - align the walls of the dug bowl and make them flat. Provide terraces around the perimeter of the reservoir. They do not allow the earth to crumble, serve as convenient steps when laying waterproofing. In the future, they will be useful in the design of the pond.

Important! In the bowl of the pit, three zones are provided: deep, 1.8-2.0 meters, (below the freezing level of the earth). She is prepared so that she successfully winters. Medium - for plants. Small - in summer such places warm up well, fry, living creatures accumulate here, microflora multiplies.

If you are digging a swimming pond, you do not need to deepen the bottom, it is made even.

Next you need:

remove stones, snags from the bottom;
prepare waterproofing material.

The company "Landscape Constructions" recommends that you first fill the bottom with sand, lay it on top geotextile.

Among the existing options for waterproof coatings, usually choose butyl rubber film. The main argument is durability. She serves up to 20 years.

Laying out the film

How else can you waterproof a pond?

For your information! In specialized stores, you can buy a ready-made plastic mold for a reservoir of 1000 liters or more.

How to build a dam?

A pit is not required for a pond, it is enough to make a dam using a stream or a catchment area where water flows. Running water fills the reservoir constantly. Block it in the narrowest place. First, a ditch is dug, the bottom is laid out with greasy clay, and it is rammed. Then they build a wall of clay, deepen into the bottom and edges of the ravine. The crest of the dam is raised a meter above the future water level, the rapids are made steep.

Dams are built from natural materials: stone, gravel, logs, sometimes they are concreted. The base is supposed to be wide so that the structure can withstand water pressure.

When building such structures, remember about floods, consider water drainage in extreme situations.

The embankment is covered with a width of half a meter to 4 meters, a height of at least 0.5 m. The dam is filled only after the dam has settled.

Concrete dam. It is reinforced with rods, a corner, a steel mesh. For concreting, waterproof cement is used, liquid glass, PVA glue are added.

If there is a ravine

The ravine next to the site, along the bottom of which a stream flows and overflows in high water, can be turned from a potential enemy into a friend and helper. The ravine is blocked from coast to coast by an embankment. In front of it, rain, spring, or river water gradually accumulates, a water surface is formed.

Here is a similar positive experience step by step:

Dig a bypass, temporarily direct a stream into it so as not to interfere with work.
Make shields from boards, cover them with a film, on top - with roofing material.
Make gaps in the ravine, insert shields into them, lay out a dam from stones.
The bottom of the proposed pond cover with clay, compact, lay a layer of sand on top, level. At the end of the pond lay out with a film, the walls - with a stone.
In order to keep the water at a certain level, set overflow pipe. Excess water goes further along the diversion channel, into the ravine. To avoid silting, a sump is dug just above the course of a natural stream.

Such a water oasis practically does not require costs, it will avert the threat of flooding, decorate the place of rest.

How to make sure that the pond does not freeze in winter?

In autumn, especially tender and valuable plants are removed from the pond, and ornamental fish are moved to the aquarium. The pond will freeze at low temperatures, it is impossible to counteract nature, but it is possible to facilitate the wintering of fish in the reservoir, to ensure the flow of oxygen.

Reeds, cattail placed vertically. Oxygen through the hollow stems penetrates into the water.
Styrofoam, bundles of straw on water will slow down freezing.
Do products, pouring boiling water over ice.
In severe frosts cover insulation (straw, burlap, roofing material). Such flooring cannot be kept for a long time, natural light is needed. A wooden or foam box is placed above the hole, an incandescent lamp is hung, the hole does not freeze.

Used here floating aerator, however, its action is effective only at low sub-zero temperatures.

Pond from a quarry

Such reservoirs are called quarry ponds or gravel pits. Usually these are old neglected quarries in which peat or stone was mined. The water in them stagnates, fish is found, mainly, a trifle. Used for breeding fish when it is possible to provide a constant flow of water. Specialized farms on quarry ponds produce up to 2 centners of fish per hectare. Such reservoirs are of interest to entrepreneurs.

If there is a well

The easiest way is to feed the reservoir from the well. Here is such a scheme, with the help of which a good idea was realized, the owner of such a pond shared at the dacha forum. Water performs a cycle, its consumption is small.

Water from the pond flows to the filter. In this case, it performs the function of a skimmer.
The water cleared of debris falls into the waterfall that oxygenates the water. The pump in the well turns on only when there is a need to raise the water level.
The relay works, turns on the pump in the well, water enters the pond, fills it up to the required level. Next comes the filter's turn. All mechanisms enter in turn. Such a scheme automatically maintains the water level necessary for the operation of the filter and waterfall.

How to make a flowing pond

The bridge as a decoration of the reservoir

Straight, curved, hanging over the water surface - the bridge can be anything. Wood, concrete, stone, metal and their combinations are suitable for structures. Even the smallest bridge will enliven the site, become a continuation of the path, add an unusual line to the landscape.

A simple bridge is easy to make:

pond filter

Alexander Pizanets tells how to make a filter for a pond in the video below.

One of the brightest tools in landscape design is a decorative pond. Of course, most of the suburban areas are limited to the traditional six acres, and the owners simply cannot build a large pond, but because of this, you should not give up the dream of acquiring an artificial pond. As for the technical part, it will not become an obstacle, but subject to good instructions and desire. So, today we will find out how to make a pond in the country with our own hands step by step.

First, you should find out what purpose the construction of the pond on the site will pursue. From this point of view, water bodies can be divided into four large groups.

Table number 1. Classification of artificial reservoirs by functionality

Group name	Short description
	They are an element of landscape composition and are intended, first of all, to decorate a particular area of the garden. Near such reservoirs, active recreation is not provided.
	They are deeper and often decorated with fountains, bridges, sometimes equipped with lighting. Similar ponds are built near the house or gazebos, benches with awnings are placed nearby. Therefore, it is quite obvious that such reservoirs are the heart of the recreation area for residents of the house.
	This option is suitable not only for avid fishermen, but also for families with children - the latter will enjoy watching bright fish while relaxing in nature.
	They also belong to artificial summer cottages and not only perform an aesthetic function, but also provide an opportunity to freshen up or even swim (it all depends on the size).

Then, based on the goal and our capabilities, we proceed to the choice of style, location, size and shape.

Second phase. Deciding on style

An artificial pond can be made in one of two possible options, each of which also has a great many modifications.

Table number 2. Styles of artificial reservoirs

Name	Short description
	This name accurately reflects the essence - these are structures that differ in clearly defined outlines. The shape of the pond, correct in terms of geometry, is suitable for those areas that are decorated in the style of minimalism, high-tech, modern or classic. But, characteristically, the shape can be not only rectangular, but also square, round, oval, broken.
	They are more popular, because they are characterized by naturalness and irregular outlines of the coast, which means that they bring a person closer to nature. The shape of the reservoir here depends only on personal preferences, but the more complex it is, the more difficult it will be to lay the film (more on this later).

The relief of the site also plays a big role in choosing the style. So, if the surface is sufficiently even, then the shape of the pond can be any. If there are irregularities and drops on the site, then they need to be given special attention, but they make it possible to additionally equip a cascade or waterfall. In addition, against the background of all this, say, an artificial slide will look great.

Also, the reservoir can be slightly raised above the ground. In this case, the construction technology will differ only in the arrangement of the foundation, which will prevent possible distortions of the bowl.

When creating such a reservoir, earthwork is minimized, and it will be much easier to take care of it.

Note! If the reservoir will be built with a fountain, then preference should be given to a high design.

Third stage. Choose a place

Let's start with the fact that we place the reservoir in the most suitable place, so that it is possible to admire our creation from anywhere in the site. That is why when choosing we take into account several important factors.

Land area. Not only the size of the pond, but also its shape directly depend on it.
illumination. It is preferable to place an artificial reservoir in a shady place where exposure to direct sunlight does not exceed five to six hours a day, otherwise some of the water may simply evaporate. Moreover, in sunlight, biological activity can develop, which is unlikely to beautify the pond. Therefore, having chosen a specific place on the site, we observe the solar regime for several days.
Relief. The shape of the pond depends on it, and it also simplifies the installation of additional elements (for example, fountains).
Groundwater level, soil composition. These indicators affect not only the depth of the reservoir, but also the complexity of the work and the need for additional consumables.

Note! The greater the depth of the pond, the more illuminated the place it should be placed. If the reservoir is intended for fish, then we take the location even more responsibly, since the oxygen content in strongly heated water decreases.

Expandability. Do not forget about the perspective, so on the one hand we leave free space.
Visibility. It is desirable to arrange the reservoir so that it can be seen from the house and places of rest.
Power supply. If a fountain or lighting is additionally equipped, then we think over electrification in advance. It is better to lay wires even during development, and underground and in a reliable protective corrugation. There should be small access hatches at the junctions.
Reflection. The pond will look more attractive if the surface reflects the sky or beautiful buildings, and not some kind of outbuilding.
Landscaping. The vegetation near the pond is, of course, beautiful, but the leaves will pollute it and form silt. Moreover, the root systems of trees can lead to damage to the waterproofing layer.
Compatibility with general decoration and other objects.

We begin work in the spring - so we will have enough time for the reservoir to "take root" on the site.

Fourth stage. Deciding on sizes

It is difficult to say that a large pond will cost more than a small one, since there are a lot of nuances here. So let's look at the key points.

1. Dimensions. They depend on the location of the reservoir. Many say that the pond should be an average of 3-10% of the total area of the site, although there can be no clear recommendations in this case. As for the specific length and width, they depend not only on the area of the land, but also on our capabilities. After all, we will dig a hole under the reservoir by hand.

2. Depth. It depends on the purpose of creating a reservoir, as well as its size.

3. The difficulty of the content. The larger the pond, the easier (no matter how paradoxical it may sound) to take care of it.

4. Zoning. The reservoir is divided into the following zones:

coastal (from 10 cm to 40 cm), which will serve as an entrance and for planting a plant;
shallow (from 40 cm to 100 cm), where crops that grow deeper will be planted (for example, winter-hardy water lily);
deep-water (more than 100 cm) - it is required only in those reservoirs where fish breeding is planned; the area of this zone depends primarily on the number of fish, but on average it should be more than 20% of the total area of the reservoir.

5. Biological balance. In any case, living creatures will settle in the pond, which means that it is necessary to provide such conditions so that it can clean itself. No oxygenation or chlorination of water is provided here. It is worth remembering: no more than ½ of the entire area can be allocated for plants.

Note! The lowest point should be lowered below the freezing line of the soil, especially if you plan to breed fish - so they can survive the winter in non-freezing water.

Fifth stage. Choosing materials

The next issue to be dealt with is the choice of consumables. There are many options on the market today that can be used to create an artificial reservoir. Let's consider them.

concrete pond

The most expensive option, which, nevertheless, allows you to operate the reservoir for quite a long time. Although concrete pouring is more suitable for arranging a pool.

Finished plastic container

This option is more suitable. A form made of fiberglass or PVC allows you to build a pond in record time and use it for up to 30 years (the specific period depends on the quality of the container).

The procedure itself will consist of only four steps:

dig a pit;
set the form;
fill the remaining voids with sand;
we plant plants, fill the reservoir with water.

The disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of transportation (if the volume is large) and the need for basic installation knowledge (otherwise the bowl may be damaged). Moreover, plastic containers degrade over time under the influence of UV radiation.

Note! It is preferable to use a fiberglass bowl, which is reinforced with rubber - this design is more reliable and suitable for repair.

Polymer film

In terms of the shape of the pond, this option provides simply unlimited possibilities. The most affordable material is plastic film, although it will not last long.

PVC film has a longer service life, with proper installation it can last up to ten years.

Perhaps the most reliable option. For ponds with rocky bottoms and great depths, it is recommended to use a butyl rubber (EPDM) membrane, which has a service life of up to 50 years. In addition, this material is able to withstand repeated frosts.

There are several folk ways to make a reservoir that use improvised materials. Let's get acquainted with the most popular of these methods.

Pond from an old bath

A great option, because the bath is a container that was originally intended to hold liquid. The bath can be painted in bright colors and placed in a picturesque corner of the site or, alternatively, deepened into the ground.

Tire Pond

An easy way to create a mini-pond on the site. The manufacturing process is shown in the photo below.

Pond from a basin

An even easier way. The basin is able to retain water well, so it can be installed in the same way as a bath. With proper decoration, such a mini-pond will be an excellent decoration of the yard.

Note! Not only the aesthetic characteristics of the pond, but also its service life depend on the choice of material. It is desirable that the selected material is environmentally friendly.

Sixth stage. We prepare the equipment

To create a simple artificial reservoir, we need a level, a cart with a shovel, a cord, a hose that is used for watering, and pegs.

If the pond is more technologically advanced, then you will need the following equipment:

cleaning filter;
sterilizer (it will remove algae so that the water is clear);
pump for pumping / pumping water;
aerator for oxygen saturation (especially important when breeding fish).

Seventh stage. We create an artificial reservoir

There are plenty of materials that can be used to create a reservoir, but we will focus on PVC film. The fact is that it is cheaper, takes the desired shape better, it can be repaired, and specific knowledge or skills are not required for work.

Step 1. First, choose the color of the film. There are several possible options here.

Black film - it will turn the bottom into a mirror (plants, clouds, etc. will be reflected).
Cream, blue- so the reservoir will look more like a pool, and the fish on a light background will be more clearly visible.
brown- will imitate the soil of natural reservoirs. Great option for a landscape pond.

Also, when choosing a film, we pay attention to the composition (PVC is more durable than PE) and thickness (for a pond, material thicker than 0.5 mm is required). Moreover, the greater the depth of the reservoir, the greater should be the thickness of the film. No less important is resistance to UV radiation and mechanical damage.

Note! If the depth of the pond exceeds 1.5 m, then we use butyl rubber. Such a film is resistant to stretching, deformation and UV, moreover, it can withstand temperatures of 40-80°C.

pond width + (depth x 2) + margin (55-60 cm) = material width;
pond length + (depth x 2) + stock (55-60 cm) = material length.

For gluing, we will use a special glue (for example, "Tagnit") or adhesive tape (Quick Seam 3).

Step 3 The next step is to create a schema.

First, draw it on paper, and then transfer it to the ground. We indicate the dimensions of the steps or "shelves" for plants - this will avoid possible problems. For marking, use sand or a flexible garden hose (preferably a bright color).

After that, we cover the marked area with a piece of light film and examine it from different angles. We make adjustments if necessary.

Step 4. Roem a pit. To do this, perform the following steps.

First we remove the sod.
Then we dig the pit itself. At the same time, we move from the edges to the center, delving into the required places - it’s more convenient. For laying stone and decorating, we equip a ledge with a depth of 60-70 cm.
We remove the soil, and with it the roots, stones, debris and everything that can damage the film. By the way, you can make an alpine hill out of the excavated earth.

When carrying out earthworks, we pay attention to ensuring that the banks of the future pond are located on the same line. If a waterfall is created, then we maintain the required height difference.

Note! If a large level is required, we can make it ourselves. To do this, lay the usual level on a long, flat board.

Step 5 We lay the underlay. We carefully tamp the bottom of the finished pit, after which we proceed to the waterproofing layer, which will prevent the penetration of water into the soil.

The substrate can be made in several ways:

we cover the bottom with stones and fill it with sand (this kind of waterproofing will lose its properties in a few years);
we lay a layer of geotextile, which we fill up with sand (it will cost a large amount);
we lay PVC film (the most reliable way, so we will focus on it).

Step 6 Next, we lay the film, preferably on a sandy “cushion” (the latter will prevent damage by stones and other dangerous objects). It is advisable to lay on a hot day - heating up, the film becomes more pliable.

This may cause problems with the formation of folds. We try to make one large fold, and not a large number of small ones, and then glue it or press it down with stones. The film must be loose, loose.

For its fastening, a swarm along the perimeter of an additional trench. We lay the film there, after which we fall asleep crushed stone. Next, we fill the trench with large stones with a flat bottom (so that the film does not tear). We lay the walls with round stones (flat ones will slide). At the end, we fill the pond with water - we serve it without pressure, directing it to the center of the pit. After two days, cut off the excess film.

Step 7. We strengthen the coast. Their slope depends on the type of soil: if it is sandy, then the walls should be sloping, if we are talking about clay or black soil, then vertical. The optimum slope angle should be approximately 45°.

The fortification itself depends on the type of coast.

If they are gentle, then you can use:

geomat;
geogrid;
polymer geogrid.

You can also use a regular chain-link mesh, filling its cells with soil with seeds of perennial grass (for example, clover). There is another option - to strengthen the coast with shrubs or plants.

If the coast is steep, then we can use:

piles;
gabions;
retaining walls.

It can also be effectively strengthened with the help of biological methods (planting). Ideally, biological amplification methods should be combined with engineering ones.

Eighth stage. Making an artificial pond

There are several ways to decorate a pond. To make it a full-fledged design element, use one or more of the following methods.

As a conclusion. Features of care

As a result, a few words about the further care of the artificial reservoir.

Video - Creating a pond from a film

A small pond is able to decorate and diversify any suburban area. And it will be even more pleasant if you build such a pond with your own hands. It may seem complicated, but with quality instructions, there should be no problems.

A floating flock of ornamental fish is the best decoration of the pond

Traditionally, work begins with preparatory activities.

Stage 1. Decide on the place and size

First, we determine the place in which the decorative pond will be located. To do this, we take into account the following points:

there should not be trees near, because their roots can damage the bottom of the structure, and the leaves can clog the water;
the place should be open, as well as illuminated by the sun for at least 6 hours a day (this will increase the intensity of algae reproduction without infringing on terrestrial plants);
if possible, it is desirable to leave room for future expansion of the pond;
the area of the reservoir should not exceed 3% of the total area.

In a word, the smaller the area, the easier it is to carry out construction work. In terms of depth, the reservoir is divided into three levels:

for plants near the shore;
shallow water for winter-hardy water lily;
a deepening in which fish will winter (if we breed them).

Note! It is undesirable to make the reservoir too deep - it is quite enough to make a deepening of 1.6-1.8 meters (that is, below the freezing level of the soil). The area of deepening should not exceed one fifth of the entire pond.

Stage 2. Decide on the material

There are a lot of materials that can serve as the basis for a decorative pond, but the most popular of them are the options below.

Due to the fact that the construction of a decorative reservoir from a mold can hardly cause any difficulties, we will consider the second construction option in more detail.

Prices for finished ponds and bowls for ponds and fountains

Ready-made ponds and bowls for ponds and fountains

Stage 3. We prepare consumables

The work will require:

PVC film;
ruberoid;
stones are round;
rope;
stone slabs;
shovel;
sand;
bricks;
fine gravel.

Having prepared everything you need, proceed to the next step.

Stage 4. Dig the pit

Step 1. First, we create a sketch of the future reservoir on a scale, indicating the dimensions and width of the curtains (shelves for plants, that is, the upper step of the structure). This will help to avoid possible difficulties not only during construction, but also when planting.

We also think over the accent of the composition - a large original stone, for example, a sculpture or just a tree.

Step 2. With the help of a rope or sand, we outline the intended contour of the reservoir. Be sure to check that all the banks are at the same level, after which, using a shovel, we cut the turf along the perimeter of the pond.

Step 3. Now let's start excavation. First, we dig a pit to a depth of the first level (about 30-40 cm) and mark a line from which it will be buried to the second mark (90 cm). Next, we create the deepest level (up to 1.8 meters if we plan to breed fish), extract the last portion of the soil.

Note! It is recommended to regularly check the level of the banks during the digging of the pit. In the absence of a water level of the appropriate length, you can take a simple long board and attach a 50-centimeter device to it.

Step 4. To dig a reservoir, it is advisable to use the services of specialists in this kind of work, accompanied by a small excavator, because this work is quite difficult. But if it was decided to do this stage of work with your own hands, then you should be prepared for the fact that moisture will accumulate in the pit and you will have to dig in dirty slurry. A pump can be used to remove water (but only specially designed for pumping liquid with solid particles). Nearby, you can dig another hole to dump water into it.

Step 5. Carefully inspect the bottom of the finished pit for branches, sharp stones and anything that can damage the film. We check the horizontality of the banks, if necessary, align them.

Step 6. Along the perimeter of the pond, we dig a ditch 20 cm deep to fix the film. Then, using a rope, we measure the dimensions to determine the required size of the film, add 0.5 m on each side.

When carrying out earthworks, you may encounter the problem of where to put the earth from the pit. An excellent solution to this problem is to raise the level of the site by evenly distributing the soil over the entire garden area. Another option is also possible - to use the land for the construction of an alpine slide.

Stage 5. We lay the film

Step 1. We cover the bottom of the pit with a 15-centimeter sand "cushion", carefully tamp it down.

Step 2. To protect the PVC film from damage, we lay a layer of roofing material (we overlap).

Step 3. We cover the bowl of the reservoir with a film. We do it freely, with a small margin along the banks. We press the ends of the film with bricks.

Note! To increase the elasticity of the film, it is advisable to carry out laying on a sunny day - under the influence of temperature, the film will stretch better and easily bend around all the protrusions of the pit.

Step 4. We fill the pond with water, but we are in no hurry to cut off the excess film. It is necessary to wait approximately 24 hours for the PVC coating to take its final volume. Then we cut the film, lay its edges in a pre-made trench, turn it up and fill it with rubble.

Note! Often the width of the film is not enough for the whole pond. In such cases, several pieces are interconnected by soldering.

Prices for various types of pond films

Pond film

Stage 6. We equip a decorative pond

Step 1. In order to prevent the earth from shedding into the bowl of the reservoir, we strengthen the edge. This can be done with:

stone blocks;
plastic pipes nailed to pegs.

We lay out the edge with natural stone (although brick, tile, and other materials can also be used), decorate with a group of boulders or one large block.

Step 2. We lay out the bottom of the reservoir with rubble or stones. Then we place the pre-prepared plants in plastic containers and arrange them in curtains. It is advisable to use plants that saturate with oxygen (such as hornwort, water lily, swamp, etc.). After that, the pond can be finally filled with water.

Note! For the correct selection of hydrochemical preparations and the pump, it is necessary to measure the volume of the reservoir. To do this, when changing the water, read the water meter readings before / after the filling procedure.

Step 3. We can make a small stream for the permanent circulation of water - this will prevent the latter from stagnation. To do this, we raise the source slightly above the level of the reservoir and set it to supply water from the bowl. We plan to decorate the mouth of the stream, for which you can use:

stones;
containers made of glass or clay;
vegetable planting.

Step 4. Install at the bottom of the reservoir, stretch the pipes to the source and connect them to the cleaning filter. The latter must be pressure, that is, with the provided reverse cleaning, since it is much more efficient than usual.

Everything, ready! It remains only to regularly clean it of dirt, use special products that revitalize the water and prevent the excessive spread of algae, and also remove plants for the winter.

When building a pond, it is difficult to avoid some mistakes, especially the compositional plan. For this reason, you need to be aware of the common mistakes gardeners make.

Plant growing zones	Plants
coastal zone	Conifers, elderberry, ferns, meadowsweet, lilies of the valley, bergenia, etc.
Coastline	Gubastik, fluffy, marigold, veronica handrail, highlander snake, forget-me-not, etc.
Plants for decorating shallow water (up to a depth of 5-20 cm.)	Calamus, reeds, umbrella susak, cattail, arrowhead, etc.
Deep water plants 30-150 cm	Water lily, jug
Plants for decorating the surface of the water (floating on the surface of the water)	Duckweed, water paint, telorez

Finally, having planned the independent construction of a pond, first practice - make, for example, a miniature pond, and only then move on to larger compositions. This will greatly increase your chances of success.

Good luck with your work!

Video - Creating a pond in the country

Immediately you need to warn those who want to have a pond for fish and swimming in their country house. This is a rather complex structure, its construction should be taken in a balanced way, the desire to “create a magnificent landscape design” is not enough. This refers to a rather large reservoir, and not decorative.

What will be needed for construction?

Availability of special earth-moving equipment and trucks for earth transportation. There will be a fairly large amount of it, specific volumes depend on the size and depth of the pond. For swimming and breeding fish, the depth must be at least two meters, multiply this figure by the length and width and find out the volume of soil.
Possibility to continuously supply fresh water to the pond and think over the way of draining the stacks. Without a constant change of water, the most beautiful pond in a few years will turn into a green, fetid puddle, cleaning it out or, in extreme cases, filling it up is a big problem.
Significant funds. They will be needed not only for the construction of the reservoir, but also for maintaining it in proper condition.

If you have no problems on all counts, you can begin construction. We will tell you in as much detail as possible about all the existing rules and requirements, each owner of a suburban area must independently decide what to do: take into account the existing requirements and be guaranteed to have a real functional pond or act at your own peril and risk, build "at random".

The pond in the country for breeding fish and swimming is quite large, and this is already a real hydraulic structure in its complexity, requiring a competent approach.

Before the actual start of construction work, the following problems must be solved:

When the preliminary questions are clear, you can begin to sketch the reservoir, draw up a water supply and drainage scheme.

How to draw a sketch

When you do not have the slightest experience and knowledge, it is better to seek help from specialists. Their services will cost much less than correcting mistakes.

Scheme of a film pond
Show on page View in full size

If there is a certain preparation, then with the help of our tips you can make a sketch yourself. What should be shown in the picture?

FOUNDATIONS OF BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES. C O D R A V I L SP 22.13330.2011. SNiP 2.02.01-83. Download file

Water treatment measures, filtration prevention

Filtration protection is carried out when the pond is digging in light soils. In addition, the issue of the removal of melt water should be resolved if it can enter through the sides or from a spring at the bottom. The internal surfaces of the reservoir can be protected using a traditional compacted clay screen or concrete with special additives. Today, there are newer materials in the market: rubberized films, synthetic mats with dry clay powder inside, etc. The specific choice must be made taking into account financial capabilities and soil characteristics.

Over time, the water in the reservoir is polluted with various mechanical deposits. The maximum damage is caused by clay particles entering through the active aquifers of the soil. In the most difficult cases, silting can be up to ten centimeters per year. To eliminate such negative consequences, gravel-sand cushions can be poured onto the bottom or non-woven synthetic filter materials can be used.

The percentage of oxygen in the water is very important, to maintain the values \u200b\u200bin the recommended parameters, aeration should be used (if there is no other way to exchange water). There is another option for aeration - to make a decorative fountain, but this method can significantly increase the estimated cost of construction work.

Additional facilities for water recharge of the pond

For reservoirs that are built on a river or stream, this problem is solved by nature. It will only be necessary to put up a small dam to retain the water flow and discharge the excess. In order to prevent pollution from the river from entering the surface, ordinary grate filters should be installed. If there is fish in the pond, then the same gratings must be installed on the drainage system, they will prevent the fish from leaving. Dams simultaneously release maximum water flows during floods or spring snowmelt. As spillways, metal or concrete pipes can be used, the diameter is selected taking into account the maximum debit of the water flow.

Significant problems can arise during the need to clean the bottom of the pond. It will not be possible to completely drain the water, it will have to be pumped out with powerful pumps. Again, issues need to be resolved. The pumped-out water should not heat the buildings and neighbors existing in the summer cottage.

An important characteristic for any pond is the frequency of water exchange. The indicators depend on the hydrological features. Scientific data indicate that for large reservoirs, the frequency of water exchange can be reduced, the system is able to cope with the cleaning on its own. No effort is required for reservoirs into which water comes from a river or stream (dammed). For all other ponds, it will be necessary to make forced water exchange systems with pumps or purify water by biological and mechanical methods. The power of the pumps and the amount of water depends on the volume and purpose of the facility.

Table of water exchange coefficients

When it is impossible to provide a natural change of water for various reasons, then mechanical and biological methods of water purification will have to be used, we will talk about them below.

How to purify water without water exchange

If the pond is quite large, then the purification of water to a large extent occurs naturally by microorganisms and plants. But there are times when these cleaners do not have time to cope with the tasks set, the owners have to solve the issue by other methods.

mechanical filters. The most common and cheapest way. In most cases, they can be cleaned in several stages from various types of contaminants. They consist of washed crushed stone and several fractions of quartz sand.
Chemical filters. Modern devices that absorb chemical compounds that are unusual for ponds. Additionally, a special installation for saturating water with oxygen can be used, it provides an increase in its amount in water. And already oxygen accelerates the processing of organic pollutants by bacteria.
Water sterilization. The ultraviolet irradiation unit treats the water and destroys all types of bacteria. For fish ponds, it is used only as a last resort when pathogenic bacteria are found in the water.
microbiological method. Bacteria specially settled in the pond at times accelerate the decomposition of organic impurities.

If you do not follow the requirements for maintaining water in proper condition, then in a few years a beautiful stocked pond will turn into a pit with fetid water.

Special hydraulic structures

At the beginning of the article, we already said that it is necessary to provide for the exclusion of flooding of the foundations of existing buildings at the stage of planning the location of the pond. But there are cases when the landscape features of the suburban area, the physical characteristics of the soil or the proximity of groundwater do not allow to avoid flooding with "little blood", it is necessary to build special hydraulic structures.

Support for the water regime of the summer cottage and the removal of seepage water outside the site is done by drainage - a rather complicated structure from a technical point of view. Ponds can have a low water level (the mirror is located below ground level) or high. In the first case, drainage water can be diverted back to the pond, and the excess is removed using an ordinary catchment area. The disadvantages of this method: a rather large distance between the ground and water levels and very extended systems. The issue can be resolved by installing intermediate wells. In the second case, it is necessary to make a separate annular drainage of the pond, it will intercept the seepage water and divert it to the collector. Used on heavy heavily waterlogged soils.

We specifically tried to give the most complete information on the construction of ponds in compliance with all the requirements of building codes and regulations. Each developer has the right to independently decide whether to build a pond taking into account the developed recommendations and not worry about its functionality or simplify some technologies.

Information about the construction technology is available, there is no problem to choose and familiarize yourself with the desired pond option. We will give some general practical advice that will be useful in all cases.

We strongly recommend that you engage in the construction of a pond even before the construction of the main summer cottages begins. Firstly, the fertile layer of the earth can be usefully used in another area. Secondly, the work of earthmoving equipment and trucks will cause less damage to the landscape.

If the lands are sandy, then it is better to concrete the bottom, flexible waterproofing materials do not have sufficient physical strength and cannot prevent the banks from crumbling. During concreting, it should be borne in mind that two types of efforts will act: the earth will crumble from the outside, and from the inside the bowl will burst with ice in winter. It is highly desirable to use metal mesh reinforcement during concreting.

The place for swimming should have a reinforced strengthening of the coast. If various films are used for waterproofing, they can be damaged by bathers. In places of entry / exit from the water, special ladders must be installed.

It is necessary to provide places for installation of additional equipment and drains during work with the bowl. Exits are installed in technological places, more thorough waterproofing is done, etc.

The fish in the pond will have to be fed, natural food is not enough for her. Top dressing is an unnecessary burden on the ecology of the pond; it will not be possible to accurately calculate the amount of feed. This means that water treatment systems need to be more powerful and efficient.