Staircase to the second floor from the end of the house. Do-it-yourself ladder is simple (step-by-step instructions for making)

Multi-storey private construction implies the presence in the house. This architectural detail of the premises today is represented by a fairly wide range, both in terms of design and in terms of the materials from which it is made. In today's review, we will look at how staircases to the second floor are made in a private house with our own hands and what parameters require mandatory calculation.

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What stairs are

Let's start with the design features of the stairs, because it is this criterion that is the main one in choosing this architectural element.

Marching stairs

This is the most common staircase model used in private homes due to its simple design. They can be straight, that is, with one march to connect the first and second floors. Can be swivel with 90° or 180° reversal.

It should be noted that direct stairs to the second floor are the easiest option. Their assembly is quite simple, the main thing is to correctly calculate the number of steps, taking into account the angle of inclination of the structure. Because it is on these two parameters that the safe movement along it depends.

Attention! The optimal angle of inclination of the flight of stairs is 45 °. The steeper the span, the more difficult it is to move along it.

The norms indicate that the ideal flight of stairs should consist of 10 steps, no more. If the number exceeds this indicator, then you need to think about using a rotary model.

In addition to the direction of the location of the stair structures, mid-flight stairs differ in the bearing element of the structure. There are two positions here:

• on stringers;
• on strings.

Kosoura is a beam (one or two), on which steps are installed from above. If you look at such a ladder from the side, then the whole structure will be in sight. Bowstrings are also beams (there must be two of them), only the steps are attached to them from the side to the back. They are inside the structure, and if you look at the latter from the side, the steps will not be visible. They are closed with bowstrings. The photo above shows a staircase to the second floor on stringers, in the lower picture on bowstrings.

Spiral stairs to the second floor

The unusual nature of spiral staircases has made them popular. Today, many owners are trying to give the interior of the rooms a certain charm, so screw models are increasingly found in country houses. But, firstly, such structures are not appropriate everywhere, secondly, they are the most complex in terms of assembly technology, thirdly, it is inconvenient to move around them, especially for older people, and fourthly, it is simply impossible to move along them.

But in some situations, they are indispensable. For example, if the ladder is installed in cramped conditions, where it is not possible to build an inclined model. Because for her, an area of ​​​​1.5 × 1.5 m is a real option for location and placement.

Bolts stairs

First of all, let's define what a pain is. This is a special fastener that is inserted into the wall, and a step is installed on it. It can be an ordinary pin, it can be a metal corner that is attached to the wall or metal dowels. That is, the main purpose of this element is the supporting basis for the step.

Purely constructively, the stairs on the bolts do not have load-bearing beams, because the wall of the house acts as a support for the steps here. As for the opposite side of the steps from the wall, they are usually installed on top of each other using special supplies. The latter can be made of metal or. But this design is not always used. The photo below shows a ladder on the bolts, in the design of which there are no additional elements. This building looks easy and elegant.

Combined designs

This category includes designs that use two different varieties: marching and screw. I must say honestly that such models are rarely used in private homes. They are difficult to assemble, an accurate calculation is required here, especially with regard to the dimensions of the junction of the march and the screw part, where winder steps will be used. As practice shows, combined stairs to the second floor are purchased ready-made or made to order. It is difficult to make them with your own hands due to the complexity of the design itself.

It is easy to assemble the finished version according to the instructions. But we must take into account the possibility of installing the structure in the space allocated for it. That is why experts recommend not to install such ladders with your own hands. They will require adjustment, which is associated with changes in the size of the structure or room.

Materials for the manufacture of stairs

When it comes to building an interfloor staircase for a private house with your own hands, it must be assumed that the construction should not be difficult. Therefore, you should not choose non-traditional materials for staircases that are used today in finished products. The best option is a tree or.

Wooden stairs

How to make a metal staircase to the second floor with your own hands

First of all, you need to select the supporting elements. Usually, a channel No. 16-20 or a profile pipe 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm is used for this. They, as in the case of wooden stringers, are chosen in length, taking into account the angle of inclination and the height of the ceilings.

Two profiles are laid between the floor of the first and second floors and are fixed to them by any means and means. Most often, metal dowels are used for this. Although it can also be used if embedded parts in the form of corners or plates are laid in the floors.

The difficulty begins precisely at this stage, because it is necessary to form supports for the steps. In fact, two combs must be created from two profiles. There is no need to cut anything here, because this will weaken the load-bearing elements. We will increase the beams. To do this, you will have to make several supports in the form of corner structures from a corner of 35 × 35 or 40-40 mm. Their number is twice the number of steps. Because under each one you will have to lay two supports.

The dimensions of the corners determine the height of the riser and the depth of the step. After that, these elements are welded to the beams at the location of the steps. The photo below shows the layout of the corner supports.

Attention! You can collect stringers separately on the floor, and then install them at their location. And you can install load-bearing profiles, and only then weld supports under the steps on them.

Now, as for the fastening of the steps. The easiest option is bolts. To do this, two holes are made on the upper plane of the corner supports with a drill and a drill. The step (usually wooden) is installed in place and marks are made from below through the holes on it. Through the latter, through holes are made. On the front side (upper), the hole must be expanded to fit the size of the bolt head. This is done to ensure that the heads are flush with the surface of the steps. Now you need to install the steps on the supports, insert four bolts into them with the head up, and tighten them from the bottom with a nut with a laid wide washer.

The risers, if any, will be used in the stairs, can be attached to the vertical parts of the supports in exactly the same way, or to the steps with self-tapping screws from the bottom to the end.

Compact staircase to the second floor

What does a compact ladder mean. Most likely, this term refers to a structure of small size, which can fit in a small area. In any case, it should not take up much space and not interfere. Both from screw and from marching types, such structures can be erected. And in this regard, screw ones are preferable, although if you make the flight stairs steep, then they will take up little space. Usually these are built from or on.

So, let's consider how you can install a compact staircase to the house on the second floor.

How to make a compact staircase with your own hands

Consider the screw version. The design is based on a support pillar on which the degrees will be attached. For a pole, it is better to choose a pipe with a diameter of 80-100 mm. That is, we will assemble a metal structure using.

1. To do this, you need to know the length of the circle that forms the outer boundaries of the steps. For example, if the diameter of a compact staircase is 1 m, then the circumference is calculated by the formula: 2πR or πD, where D is the same diameter of 1 m. From this we get that the circumference is 3.14 × 1 = 3.14 m.
2. Now this value must be divided by the number of steps, which should be no more than 10. Even if 10, then the external width of each is 3.14 / 10 \u003d 0.314 m or 31 cm. Since the staircase is compact, there will be no more than 6 steps, so the calculation must be carried out under them.
3. Next, you need to calculate the exact number of steps along the entire height of the stairs. This will require three parameters: ceiling height, floor thickness, step thickness. For example, the first is 2.7 m, the second is 15 cm, the third is 2 cm. For calculations, we take the standard distance between the steps, let it be 20 cm. The height of the stairs is 270 plus 15 equals 285 cm. Divide this parameter by 22 (this the thickness of the step plus the distance between them), we get 13 steps with rounding. In this case, the bottom step is the first floor.

So, first of all, 12 steps are made according to the obtained dimensions. They can be made of a corner or sheet iron with a thickness of at least 6 mm. Then the support post is installed and fastened. After that, steps are welded to it evenly along the length. The main requirement for them is the horizontal position.

The following drawings of spiral staircases.

And the last drawings of straight mid-flight stairs.

Prices for finished stairs to the second floor and for installation services

As for the services for the installation of stairs, they vary by region. For example, the manufacturer of the Spiral Color 160 model produces an installation for 25,000 rubles. In this case, separately 1500 rubles. take measurements. If tinting is ordered, then another 11,000 rubles are added.

It is difficult to understand the huge variety of offered stairs for private houses. And if you have any difficulties with the choice, our editors are ready to help. Leave your questions in the comments and we will definitely answer them.

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can later lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. Stairs to the second floor, made by yourself, will give you several advantages:

• the result will meet expectations;
• help save money and nerves;
• a staircase made by yourself will become your pride.

If you are limited in funds for the purchase of materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be varnished or painted.

In the pursuit of economy, quality can be overlooked. Although a cheap wooden staircase can also last quite a long time, it will start to creak very soon. In order not to encounter this trouble, the stairs must be assembled using silicone sealant, which cannot be done without first painting the parts.

In this article, we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with our own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.

For the manufacture of an interfloor staircase, concrete with a tile or marble lining, metal (a welding machine is required), as well as wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and beautiful in appearance.

In the presence of a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, preference should be given to direct structures, or with a 25% turn of the stairs. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storage. It is impossible not to note the minus: on the upper and lower floors, the free space will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters, the spiral version of the staircase is ideal, but it is also not without drawbacks:

• too steep climb;
• small width stairs.

To install a spiral staircase, you will need 3 m² of free space and a lot of work.

Another variant of the ladder device is possible, in which it is located along the wall surface. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. Thus, you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.

1. Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors together with the ceiling. Thus, you determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18-20 cm. Further dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
2. Projection of dimensions on the floor surface. To design a structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (about 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
3. Production of staircase elements. To make a kosour, you will need a 14 × 16 beam, steps - 4 cm boards, risers - 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the steps yourself, remember that the larger it is, the better.
4. Pre-sampling. If during the preliminary fitting of the parts everything came up, process each element with a grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the parts of the stairs to each other, coat all the places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or carpentry) and additionally fix it with screws.
5. Stain and lacquer finish. First, apply a stain on the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover with several layers of varnish.

As a design solution, you can consider mortise steps that are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:

1. Make markings on the stringer at the places where the steps are installed. Using a hacksaw and a chisel, cut out the grooves.
2. In the center of the groove, make several holes with a size of 9 mm.
3. Screw the turbo coupling into the holes made.
4. Install the step into the groove and tighten the bolts.

When buying planed wood, the following requirements must be considered:

• there should be no dark spots on the surface;
• the presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if steps or risers are made from the material. Also pay attention to humidity, the large mass of the board suggests that you should refuse to purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.

Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of manufacturing stairs made of wood. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual structural details. To do this, take a well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. In doing so, several factors should be taken into account:

• The strength and reliability of the stairs will depend entirely on the correct cutting of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the kosour, it is necessary to choose a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
• The board for risers can have a thickness of 15-20 mm more than allotted for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should have a perfectly flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be in the range of 30–35 mm.
• If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture must also be extremely accurate. Its thickness should not be large, 15-20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
• As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended that they be purchased ready-made with stationary mounts.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.

When all the blanks of the structure are ready, you can proceed to the most important stage of work - the installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

• Stringers are mounted at the selected location. To do this, fix the support beam on the floor, it is on it that the kosour will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. During the installation of the kosour, be sure to check everything by level or plumb.
• Before laying the tread sheet, the risers must be screwed on.

• After that, treads are fixed on the stringers and on top of the risers with self-tapping screws in the direction from bottom to top.
• After that, the installation of balusters is carried out.

So, on top of the stairs and below you mount support drains. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.

In addition, the support posts serve as a decoration. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.

Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, sizes and fastening methods. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be closed with a decorative plug. Further work is as follows:

• On top of the installed balusters, fasten the railing to the extreme support posts. Additionally, 1 or 2 additional support posts can be installed in the middle.
• When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters between the posts, you can install several boards parallel to the slope of the stairs.
• At the next stage, you can start grinding with an emery or grinder. After that, a paint coating is applied.

The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and the appearance of mold / fungus. The design should dry out, after which you can proceed to the main painting.

The stairs are covered with water-based varnish, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. Everything depends on your desire.

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Video

We bring to your attention a video film, the main character of which is a wooden staircase.

In a two-story house, it is necessary to place a comfortable, safe and beautiful staircase. You can invite craftsmen or assemble from a ready-made kit, but we will tell you how to design and mount it yourself.

Types of stairs - classification by shape

Stairs to the second floor in a private house differ in their shape. Several designs are used: with marches and helical. The former can be straight 90°, 180° or 360° swivel. Screws are compact, but they are inconvenient to use, especially for young children and the elderly. Marches are convenient, but they take up a significant part of the usable area, especially straight ones. The space below them is often used as utility rooms. The easiest way to build a marching staircase.

It includes one or two marches with steps evenly spaced. Their number is 3–15 if there is more than one march. On average, 8–11 steps are arranged on each march, and there are platforms between them. If there are more stairs with one flight of steps, it is also recommended to arrange platforms in order to increase strength. Steps are open or closed, with risers. Open are convenient with insufficient width of the act.

Mid-flight stairs can be made with small turns, less than 90 °, and are called rotary. At the turn, winder steps are more often arranged instead of a platform.

Stairs with bolts are popular - long rods with threaded ends. They serve to fasten the steps and fencing the structure, which is mounted in the wall. They have a light and airy appearance, but are actually very strong and reliable. The design can be stretched over the entire wall, or it can be built compact. Due to the features of the attachment, it is located only against the wall. It can be assembled from ready-made elements, it is better to entrust the installation to professionals.

Difficult to manufacture, but take up little space, they can be installed anywhere, even in the middle of the living room. Many do just that: the staircase is aesthetically attractive and becomes a decoration of the room. Various versions of these products are known, but for two-story buildings, a model with a rack and wedge-shaped steps is better suited. The rack is attached to the floor and ceiling, and steps spiral to it. On the side there is a handrail repeating the screw shape of the product. Balusters are attached to the handrails and steps.

Materials used - advantages and disadvantages

In addition to the form, the material of the stairs plays an important role. The most affordable material with many advantages is wood. Fashion for him does not pass for centuries. Wood products are durable, beautiful, decorate the house for many years. To maintain the appearance, it is necessary to renew the decorative coating every few years. You can not use paintwork, but emphasize the structure of natural wood.

Between floors they are often arranged as a basis for attaching parts from other materials. For steps use wood, marble, glass. Bare metal is allowed for the whole structure, but contact with it in a cool room is unpleasant. Metal stairs with glass railings look beautiful - light and airy. Glass and metal are well combined with wooden parts made of beech, teak, maple, cedar.

A new word in the manufacture of stairs is the use of special impact-resistant glass. It can withstand heavy loads, it is completely safe to use. The design with a glass staircase only wins with its grace and elegance. It is very effective to use neon bulbs for illumination.

We select materials in accordance with the chosen interior style. Metal is suitable for classic minimalism and baroque. Modern and Scandinavian styles prefer glass. Concrete, marble are typical for the loft style, eclecticism. Concrete is exceptionally durable, specialists make amazing things of incredible beauty out of it.

Product features - what parts does the staircase consist of

The design of the stairs includes many details. Some of them are necessarily present in all products, others are specific, used only in some types. Even the simplest interfloor construction is not complete without supports and steps. The step has two parts: one of them is located horizontally, the other is vertical. The horizontal one is called the step, the vertical one is called the riser. The risers play the role of a support for the tread, but in some cases they do without them.

Marches from a number of steps are mounted on supports. Two of their types are used: bowstring and kosour - beams that differ in location. The bowstring is placed so that it fastens the steps from the end, and the stringer supports from below. Supports are made of thick material: 50–70 mm. The stringers are saw-shaped, steps are placed on the horizontal platform, and risers are placed on the vertical platform. There may be one central one, when the steps rest on the wall, or two. The grooves in the bowstrings for the deed and the risers are cut according to the template. Beams are pulled together with wooden or metal strands.

Stairs almost always have railings, although they are not required. But for older people, they are simply necessary. The railings are complemented by balusters - vertical supports between them and the steps. They are often not just a functional element, but play the role of a decorative ornament. They are made from different materials, different shapes. If there are small children in the house, balusters are required to protect them from accidental falls.

For individual structures, details are used that are specific only to them. Spiral staircases cannot do without a rack. It is made of steel pipe or wood, serves as the basis for the entire product. On some models, bolts are used to fasten the steps to the wall - special threaded pins.

Preparation for design - the choice of type, fastening, dimensions

Starting manufacturing, they first decide which type of product is better to use, taking into account the existing conditions. For a private house, options for stairs are possible:

1. 1. Straight lines - easy to calculate and install, convenient to use. Requires a lot of space.
2. 2. Rotary with two or three marches and platforms between them. Staircase turns 90, 180 or 360 degrees to save space.
3. 3. Rotary winders - similar to the previous version. The role of the platforms is played by steps, additionally up to 2 m 2 of area is saved.
4. 4. Screw - very compact, but not very convenient to use. Recommended for rooms with a small area.

We continue the construction with the choice of fastening:

• bolts - mounted on the wall, the design is elegant, but can withstand significant loads;
• rack - used in spiral structures or rotary as an additional fastening;
• bowstring - steps are installed in the internal grooves of the beam, the ends are closed;
• kosour - the upper part of the beam has a figured profile for supporting steps on it, the ends are open.

• the height of the opening between the finishing floors of the first and second floors;
• the width of the opening, which, in addition to being rectangular, can be round, oval, which is determined by the version of the product;
• height from the floor on the ground floor to the ceiling.

Calculations - building codes and formulas

We will show how to design a product using the example of a marching staircase. In order not to make mistakes, you should familiarize yourself with building codes for the construction of stairs. They have been developed over many years of practice and guarantee the safety and ease of use of the product. The main rules that should be followed when performing all calculations in the future:

• the slope of the marches is not more than 45 °;
• not less than 90 cm wide;
• the height of the steps does not exceed 20 cm, the depth is not less than 25 cm;
• the dimensions of all steps are the same;
• fence with a minimum height of 90 cm;
• the location of the balusters in a house with small children after 10–12 cm.

In rotary structures, the dimensions of the inter-march platforms are at least 75 cm, and the winder steps, if used instead of platforms, are at least 20 cm wide.

Further work on the project continues on paper. We draw a plan of the first floor with an indication of all dimensions. On it we mark various ledges, niches, windows, doors, communications. When designing, we try to ensure that they do not overlap with load-bearing structures. We indicate the place of the beginning of the march on the first floor and exit to the second. We try to put down as many dimensions as possible, which will facilitate the installation of the product in the future.

Then we work with the measurements that we performed earlier. We calculate the number of steps: the height of the opening (the distance between the floors of the first and second floors) is divided by the height of one supen. Example: opening 290 cm, step 18 cm. Dividing, we get 16 steps.

We find out the length of the product: we multiply the number of treads (we have 16) by their optimal depth - 25 cm. As a result, we get 4 meters. The length is such that in a small room there may not be enough space. If divided into 2 marches of 8 steps, it will be necessary, taking into account the minimum platform size of 75 cm, almost half the area.

Finally, we find out the length of the supports, it doesn’t matter whether it is for stringers or bowstrings. We apply the Pythagorean theorem: c 2 \u003d a 2 b 2. In this case, a is the length of the product (4 m), b is the opening (2.9 m). It is required to find out c - the length of the supports. We add squares a and b: 16 8.41=24.41. We extract the square root of 24.41, we get 4.94 m - this is the required length of one support. If you do 2 marches, the length will be 3.5 m.

All calculations are applied to the drawing.

A simple solution - a straight marching staircase on stringers

It is easier to mount it yourself on stringers with one straight march. True, at the base, its length will be at least 4 meters, and the span will exceed five. But if the size of the room allows, it will become a decoration of the house. The product calculations are given above, we will tell you how to make parts and assemble the structure with your own hands.

For stringers, we take a dry blank from a hardwood board. We draw a template on cardboard or thin plywood, taking into account the shape of the protrusion and the angle of inclination. We apply it to the beam and cut the mount. At the ends of the stringers, we cut out the grooves for fastening to the upper floor beam and the lower beam. We process the grooves with sandpaper to eliminate burrs. In a prepared place on the floor, we attach the support beam to the anchor bolts. To attach the stringers to the ceiling beam, you can install anchors on it or simply join by cutting.

For the manufacture of a deed, we use a dry board with a thickness after processing of 35 mm or more, 20 mm is enough for risers. The risers can be installed not along the edge of the step, but deepened a little, then a wider board should not be cut. Alternatively, it is possible not to use risers, the design will be easier. We select the length of the parts taking into account the width of the march plus the railing. We cut off the edges on deeds, grind the workpieces. First, a riser is attached to the stringers, then an act. We use wood glue and self-tapping screws. Glue is needed so that the stairs do not creak when walking.

Let's start making railings. They consist of handrails and balusters. For balusters we use square bars, if possible, we grind them on a lathe or buy beautiful carved ones. They are mounted on steps, usually one baluster each. We fasten with self-tapping screws, the caps of which are closed with decorative plugs.

The assembly is over, it began to apply paints and varnishes that will simultaneously protect the tree from moisture and perform decorative functions. First, we grind the assembled product again, removing the smallest burrs and burrs. For painting, we use paint, varnish or a protective colorless composition, tinting agent. Paint, varnish, we choose those that do not have the properties to create a smooth surface. It is easy to get injured on slippery steps.

Spiral staircase - a turnkey solution with drawings

A spiral staircase for self-production should be easy to install and be safe. The width of the steps plays a decisive role in the prevention of injuries. They are winder in spiral structures, there are no intermediate platforms. There are several ways of fastening: on the walls, on the stringers, on the bolts. They are quite complex for calculations and installation. The best and most reliable way for a home is to mount it on a rack.

The structure is made of wood or metal. The wooden product, varnished, looks very beautiful, gives comfort. Any solid wood species can be used. For handrails, it is better to use a combination of wood and metal. For steps, in addition to wood, metal, artificial marble, and glass are also used. A metal pipe is perfect for a rack. Steps are attached to it with couplings, bolts or welding, depending on the material of the steps. Brick, concrete, wood are also used for the central rack. The main thing is that it can withstand the load.

It should be observed so that it is comfortable and safe. One of the most important is the distance between the step on which the person stands and the one above his head. In order not to touch the head, it should be 2 meters. The width of the staircase is chosen not less than 90 cm, with dimensions of more than 1.5 m along the edge, the installation of a stringer will be required. The stairway should be 10 cm wider than the diameter of the stairs at each end so as not to scratch your hands when using the railing when exiting to the second floor. Below are the drawings for calculating the spiral staircase

The best type of spiral staircase is with a metal central support made of a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To your attention step by step instructions for its manufacture:

1. 1. We install the support vertically, checking with a plumb line and level. We fasten to the wooden floor with bolts, using fasteners, pour it into the concrete. Mounting in this way will ensure the reliability of the entire product.
2. 2. We take another pipe of a slightly larger diameter in order to cut sleeves from it. We cut them perpendicularly with a height of 23–26 cm. The sleeves should be tightly placed on the rack. If it was not possible to select a pipe of the required diameter for the sleeve, rings for sealing can be welded.
3. 3. Then we proceed to the manufacture of steps. They must be the same. To achieve this, we make a conductor from chipboard and a pipe equal in diameter to the sleeve.
4. 4. We lay the profile pipe in the conductor and connect it by welding - the base for the site has come out. Then we connect all bases with sleeves by welding at the same distance from their edge. To withstand the distance, we use a conductor.
5. 5. We weld a bracket to the lower part of the base from the front side, equal in height to the distance between adjacent steps. You can make and weld risers, which is somewhat more difficult.
6. 6. We string the sleeves with metal platforms on the rack, unfold them like a fan. We weld the bracket going from the top step to the bottom.
7. 7. We weld sleeves together, install railings with balusters. The method of fastening depends on the material from which they are made. It is possible to use metal, wood, plastic or a combination of them.
8. 8. Having collected all the elements, we clean the welding seams, cover the entire structure with nitro enamel. We cover the wooden parts with paint, if the texture is rich - with a colorless varnish or tinting agent.

It is not difficult to create interfloor stairs for a person with elementary construction experience, and the pleasure from the result will be great.

• If the number of steps in the flight of stairs exceeds 18 pieces, it is recommended to make intermediate platforms.
• Number of steps. Divide the length of the flight of stairs by the height of the step. The height of the step is the sum of the height of the riser (15-20 cm) and the thickness of the tread.

Important! Using steps with a tread width less than the width of the foot is not only inconvenient, but also not safe!

• The length of the flight of stairs. For the calculation, it is necessary to take the start and end points of the flight of stairs according to the level of floors from the first to the second floor. Having height and width, according to the formula for calculating the hypotenuse of a right triangle, we calculate the length of the flight of stairs. In this case, a safe tilt angle of 30° to 45° must be taken into account.
• The height of the spans should correspond to the height of a person plus 20 cm, so as not to lean and not be injured on the upper flight of stairs or the ceiling. The optimal height between the steps and the ceiling is 2 meters. The calculation begins with measuring the height between floors and the dimensions of the stairwell.

Material for stairs

For the manufacture of stairs with their own hands, planed wood is selected, which does not have spikes, deformations, or surface irregularities. Dry the wood before starting work. To give it a deeper color, the surface is treated with stain. After that, several layers of waterproof varnish are applied to the wood.

High-quality wood for stairs should be of the first grade and have a moisture content of no more than 10%. It is not recommended to use material with a moisture content of more than 10% for the manufacture of stairs. When dry, the wood will warp and the stairs will creak. To make a staircase with your own hands, they use both budget varieties of wood (pine, birch, ash) and more expensive elite ones (oak, cedar, maple).

Characteristics of some types of wood:

• Pine is a wood most often light gray in color. It has low strength and is easily exposed to external influences. With high humidity, it may increase in size. It is in demand due to its low cost.
  
  
• Birch - light wood, has a homogeneous structure. Demanded raw material due to low price.
  
  
• Ash - characterized by a light color and a specific structure of the fibers. The process of working with it is not difficult, it is a well-bent material, but the strength indicators are even higher than those of oak.
  
  
• Oak is one of the hard varieties of light yellow color. It is generally accepted that products made from this tree are the most durable and strong, which is reflected in the price.
  
  
• Maple - due to the lack of pores, it is highly durable. This grade does not absorb moisture, as a result of which products from it can be placed outside buildings. Along with this, maple is very difficult to process.
  
  

Do-it-yourself installation of a single-flight wooden staircase

This method is considered a reference, since the installation procedure, regardless of the number of spans, is the same. The kit includes stringers, railings, treads, and risers. Treads and risers are called the horizontal and vertical parts of the steps, respectively. Kosour - the main bearing part, in which special grooves are cut for mounting steps.

Preparing the stair parts

Do-it-yourself staircase assembly

For installation of stringers in the upper part of the flight of stairs on the floor beam, it is necessary to make cuts for installation. Alternatively, instead of cuts, metal stops are used, which are attached to the vertical ceiling with anchor bolts.

In the floor of the lower floor, a support beam is mounted on the line of the lower step and locked with anchor bolts.

Installing steps is not difficult. It is necessary to apply a layer of glue on the cutouts in the stringers and attach the risers. Then the risers need to be aligned along the edges and secured with screws. Treads are laid on top of them. Do not be too lazy to use thin polymer strips in the form of tape. This simple secret will help to avoid friction of one wooden part against another, thus preventing unpleasant creaking during operation. The steps are fixed on the risers and stringers.

Advice! To make it more convenient to work, the installation of steps must begin from the bottom of the march.

When installing balusters with your own hands, you must maintain one level. To do this, the upper and lower balusters are installed, the thread is pulled and all the rest are installed according to its level. Balusters are fastened with screws or self-tapping screws, which are subsequently closed with plugs or smeared with special grout. Handrails are mounted on balusters and fixed on them. At the same time, handrails can be made from any material, not just wood.

Finishing

The assembled staircase is sanded again, paying special attention to butt joints and ends. After grinding, the stairs are covered with varnish, paint, wax solution or other protective agents. Each new layer is applied 2-3 times after the previous one has dried. Before painting, the wood can be given some kind of peculiar shade with the help of wood stain.

Do-it-yourself spiral staircase to the second floor, installation features

Spiral staircases are more beautiful, but their manufacture and installation are more difficult than marching ones. As a rule, screw structures are installed in places with limited space, where it is simply impossible to install a mid-flight ladder.

Do-it-yourself installation of a spiral staircase with a central support post is the most acceptable option, in which steps in the form of a trapezoid or triangle are put on the central pillar. For stability and reliability, the pole, with a heel pre-welded to it, is set exactly vertically and concreted at the base. In the narrow part of the steps, holes are prepared in advance. Then they are strung on a support pipe, interspersed with cylindrical inserts, which determine the height of the steps by their size. The upper step is rigidly fixed flush with the interfloor ceiling and is an additional supporting element of the entire screw structure.

When calculating the heights and the number of steps, it must be taken into account that there must always be a clearance of at least 200 mm above the head and the height of the people living in the house must be taken into account when designing. To avoid discomfort, the vertical distance between the rows of steps should be about 2 meters. The width of the flight of stairs is about 0.8 meters. Regardless of the type of stairs, these are the optimal dimensions that provide comfortable movement.

The most convenient tread depth at the support is from 15 cm, at the end of the step at least 35 cm. The average height of the riser is about 20 cm (if any). It is often recommended to abandon the risers on spiral staircases. This has a number of significant advantages:

• there is an opinion that without them the rise is more convenient;
• the weight of the entire structure is significantly reduced;
• saving money on materials.

Handrail for spiral staircase

Wooden stairs to the second floor are equipped with railings made of glued wood. They easily take the form of a spiral staircase if they are thoroughly soaked in hot water, held in the shape they should have, and allowed to dry.

Bending wood with subsequent fixation is a rather troublesome process and requires certain skills.

We make curved railings:

Curved railing processing:

It is considered normal to consider the height of the railing about 1 meter. They are attached to balusters, the height of which is selected individually for each specific project. Not every craftsman has access to a woodworking machine, so if you want to have turned balusters, you can just go to the nearest hardware store to get them. They are inexpensive.

With all this, it must be remembered that spiral staircases to the second floor have limited functionality, since it is almost impossible to transport furniture and bulky materials along them. It cannot be used by 2 people walking in different directions at the same time. But in any case, a handmade staircase is a kind of achievement and pride.

Ksenia Skvortsova. Chief Editor. Author.
Planning and distribution of responsibilities in the content production team, work with texts.
Education: Kharkov State Academy of Culture, specialty “Culturologist. Lecturer in History and Theory of Culture. Experience in copywriting: From 2010 to the present. Editor: since 2016.

A staircase is a rather complex and very responsible structure, but it is within the power of every home craftsman who has at least minimal experience working with wood to make it. The main thing is to first familiarize yourself with the basic rules, requirements and nuances of its manufacture, which will be discussed further.

Design, or how to make the stairs comfortable and safe

It is necessary to decide on the design of the future stairs. It can be of the following types:

• spiral - the steps of such a staircase are winder (rotary), located around one axis. The main advantage of the screw design is its compactness. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of use and the complexity of manufacturing. Therefore, if you are going to make a staircase for the first time, it is better to refuse the screw structure;
• marching - has even flights of stairs (one or more), as a result of which it is much more convenient to use. True, the marching stairs take up a lot of space.

Next, we will consider how marching wooden stairs are made, and we will start with calculation and design. To make the design comfortable and safe, when performing the calculation, it is necessary to take into account the following rules and requirements for it:

• steps cannot be made of different widths and heights - this is one of the main rules, failure to comply with which can lead to injury;
• you can not make steps below 160 mm and above 190 mm;
• the step should not be narrower than 220 mm and wider than 330 mm;
• the width of the march should not be less than 900–1000 mm;
• the number of steps must be odd, which will allow you to start and end the movement on the stairs with the same foot;
• for the stairs to be comfortable, marches should have 11-15 steps;
• between the march and the ceiling (the ceiling of the second floor), the distance must be at least 2 m, however, this rule applies more to the size of the opening, and not to the design of the staircase itself.

We begin the calculation of the structure by measuring the height between the floor of the first and the floor of the second floor. Then be sure to measure the width and length of the site.

For example, the ceiling height is 2500 mm. take the average - 170 mm. To calculate the number of steps in a march, you need to divide the total height by the height of the steps. The result is 2500/170=14.7. So the number of steps should be an integer, we will correct their height - 2500/15 = 166 mm. Please note that in fact the march will have not 15, but 14 steps, since the function of the last step will be performed by the overlap of the second floor.

Now you need to decide on the width of the treads. To do this, we use the following formula: step height tread width = 430–450 mm. As a result, we get 450-166 \u003d 284 mm, round it up and get 280 mm.

If necessary, adjust the height of the step or its width, within the allowable values, so that the design matches the dimensions of the platform. The only thing is, when changing one parameter, recalculate the other parameters of the stairs, as they are interconnected.

If you do not have room for a staircase more than four meters long, it can be divided into two flights. They should be separated by a landing. The depth of the latter is always equal to the width of the span.

Even more save space allows the use of turning steps instead of landings. But in this case, the ladder becomes less convenient to use. As for the marches, they can be arranged L-shaped if the staircase is angular, or at an angle of 380 degrees, i.e. parallel to each other.

Finally, you need to calculate the length of the beams. Knowing the height of the stairs and the length, this can be done using the Pythagorean theorem a 2 b 2 \u003d c 2. Our legs are the length of the stairs (the projection of the march onto the floor) and the height of the stairs. Accordingly, we need to calculate the length of the hypotenuse.

Now you should decide on its main structural points. The fact is that flights of stairs are of several types:

• on bowstrings - treads are attached between the beams, while the beams (strings) themselves are even, i.e. no cutouts for stairs. Therefore, to fasten the treads in the face of the beams, grooves are milled or bars are attached - supports for the treads;
• on stringers - they are distinguished by the presence of cutouts under the steps, so the treads are not located between the beams, but are placed on top of them. This design provides the stairs with greater strength, and also looks more attractive. But in terms of manufacturing, the stairs on the stringers are more complicated.

Then you need to decide on the method of installing the beams. If the staircase will have one span, then it will not need supports: the march rests on the floor and the ceiling of the second floor. Two-flight stairs require the installation of support pillars on which the upper part of the lower flight, the landing and the lower part of the upper flight rest. Each bowstring or kosour requires its own support. An exception is the beams located near the wall - they can be fixed to the wall without supports.

When you decide on all the main points of the stairs, draw the design on paper, even schematically, and indicate the dimensions of all the elements of the stairs in millimeters.

We make the details of the stairs - the subtleties of the calculation

Start by cutting the boards to the length of the stringers. Then you need to mark the kosour - this is the most difficult and responsible operation. We begin the marking by marking the points from which the cutouts for the steps will be made. You can determine the distance between the cutouts on the stringer using the same Pythagorean theorem. Since the legs are the width of the tread and the height of the step, the distance between the edges of the steps in our case is 280 2 166 2 = 105956. We extract the square root and get 325 mm.

Thus, points with a step of 325 mm must be applied to the edge of the future kosour. Then you need to use a square and draw lines of tread and riser through the obtained points, which form a right angle. As a result, rectangles should be obtained, the hypotenuse of which is the edge of the stringer, and their vertices, respectively, are points located on the edge with a step of 325 mm.

In the same way, the marking of bowstrings is performed. Then bars are attached to it under the steps or grooves are milled.

Now you need to make cutouts for the steps according to the markup. To do this, you can use a jigsaw or a regular hacksaw. The edges of the stringer must be cut at an angle to provide maximum support to the floor and landing beam or ceiling.

Use the resulting kosour as a template for marking the reciprocal beam. Then make cutouts in the same way. According to this principle, complete the stringers for all flights of stairs.

Then prepare racks for supports from a bar of 70x70 or even 100x100 mm. Their height should correspond to the height of the lower march. To calculate it, multiply the number of steps of the first march by their height. If the staircase is L-shaped, then four racks for the landing will be needed. In this case, the landing itself will turn out to be square, as mentioned above, its width is equal to the width of the march, most often it is 1000x1000 mm.

If the marches are parallel to each other, 8 racks will be needed. In this case, the depth of the site should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. 1000 mm, and length 1000 1000 distance between marches.

You also need to make beams for strapping racks. You can use the same beam from which the racks themselves are made. The length of the beams is equal to the distance between the uprights of the landing.

At the end of the work, you need to make steps and risers. For their manufacture, use boards 30x300 mm. The length of the treads should correspond to the width of the march or be a couple of centimeters longer so that the tread hangs a little from the stringers. The risers are made of the same length, while their width should be less than the height of the step by the thickness of the riser, i.e. in our case - 166-30 = 136 mm.

Please note that the treads should hang over the lower steps by about 1 cm.

We assemble a ladder from finished parts

Now we begin the installation of the stairs. First of all, you need to apply markings to the floor and the walls adjacent to the stairs. This operation requires accuracy and care, since the assembly quality of the entire staircase depends on it.

Then, according to the markup, you need to install the supports of the stairwell. If the floor is concrete, special glasses can be used for these purposes, corresponding to the section of the racks.

Glasses are attached to the floor with dowels. Then the racks are inserted into the glasses and fixed with self-tapping screws. During the installation of the racks, be sure to ensure that they do not deviate from the vertical.

Tie the installed racks with horizontal beams. If you have a milling cutter, you can make a tongue and groove connection, for this you need to cut grooves in the racks, and make spikes for these grooves in the beams. If such a tool is not at hand, the connection can be made using steel corners and self-tapping screws. To give the structure rigidity, coat the joints of all parts with carpentry glue.

Now we install the stringers. If the march is adjacent to the wall, fix the beam on it according to the markup. In a wooden house, screws can be used to attach the beam to the walls, but if the wall is brick or concrete, fix the stringer with anchors. Use fasteners in pairs, placing them vertically 10 cm apart. Make the step of each pair of fasteners 20–25 centimeters.

The reciprocal kosour usually relies only on the rack of the landing. It is advisable to fix it on the rack with a tongue and groove method and self-tapping screws. If this is not possible, use self-tapping screws, and also fix another horizontal beam under the stringer, on which it will also rely. According to this principle, stringers are mounted for all flights of stairs. When installing the beams, be sure to use a level to make sure that the cutouts under the steps are opposite each other in the same horizontal plane.

Then we mount the treads and risers. The treads are laid on the cutouts in the stringers and fixed with self-tapping screws. To later hide the heads of the self-tapping screws, drill under the holes to a depth of several millimeters.

In order not to fasten the risers with self-tapping screws in the steps above and below them, a groove can be milled. The width of the groove must match the thickness of the riser. As a result, the risers will be fixed only with treads. If it is not possible to make grooves, fix the risers with self-tapping screws. In the process of installing treads and risers, also use wood glue.

So that the space under the stairs does not go to waste, you can make a locker under it. To do this, you just need to install the walls between the stringers and the floor, as well as install the doors.

Installing the stair railing

Now you need to install the fence (railing). It can be anything - forged, chrome-plated from stainless steel or even glass. But as an example, consider how a wooden fence is mounted.

The design of a wooden railing consists of figured posts (balusters) and a handrail. If you have a lathe, you can make figured columns yourself. If there is no such equipment, balusters can be purchased ready-made - the cost of a pine vegura column starts at an average of 150 rubles apiece.

Keep in mind that balusters will need two types - intermediate and extreme. The latter differ in size - they are larger. In addition, you will need dowels for fastening, which can be purchased at a furniture store.

The step-by-step instructions for installing the fence are as follows:

1. 1. Mark the location of the fence: draw a straight line above the stringer on which the balusters will be installed;
2. 2. Drill holes in the treads according to the diameter of the dowels. Holes can be positioned in the center of the tread;
3. 3. Lubricate the holes with glue and hammer dowels into them;
4. 4. Drill holes in the bottom end of the posts according to the diameter of the dowels, then coat the holes with glue and put the balusters on the dowels;
5. 5. Cut the intermediate baluster at an angle corresponding to the inclination of the march. To do this, fix a flat board on the edge of the posts, located parallel to the stringer. On this board, cut off the edges of the posts.
6. 6. Fasten the handrail to the balusters by screwing in the screws from below at an acute angle.

Finishing - the finishing touch

Now that the staircase is assembled, you need to finish it. First of all, the surface should be carefully sanded. Doing this work with your own hands is quite difficult and long, so use an angle grinder.

Then you need to putty all the cracks, cracks and caps of the screws. If you plan to subsequently open the stairs with varnish, match the putty to the color of the wood. After the putty dries, be sure to sand it with fine sandpaper.

Now you can cover the stairs with paintwork material. It is best to use a water-based varnish - it has good resistance to abrasion, while it dries quickly and has no smell. The only thing is that after applying the first layer of varnish, the stairs need to be sanded again, because under the influence of moisture, the wood fibers rise, as a result of which the surface becomes rough. After that, you need to apply another 1-2 layers of varnish.

In order not to spoil the surface of the stairs, apply varnish with a high-quality paint brush that does not climb out the pile.

On this, ours is ready. As you can see, in general, there is really nothing super complicated in its manufacture.