Homemade carpentry and fixtures. How to make your own hand machines and domestic workshop devices

(A brief overview of machine tools and devices made in the process of building models of sailboats)

The purpose of this review is an ordering for the convenience of using the forum placed in various branches of the forum about machines and devices made by me in the process of building the models of sailboats.

Part 1

Stipel

The stapel is designed to build a set of housings up to 1 meter long, as well as for fixing the enclosures of any design. The design allows you to reliably and accurately fix the keel and the spangles in the process of assembling the case, its trim and installation on the body body.
The stapel consists of a base (laminated parquet board 1000x380x14mm), on which:

Guides for fixing the keel (aluminum corner of 40x20x2 mm) with slots for the splits (slots are made under a specific model) - photo 1- 2;
- Figure guides for which in the process of installing the spangouts moves along the keel carriage (plywood 10 mm, figured strips) with an altitude-adjustable duralumin plate 4mm, located at a right angle to a quille (for installation and fixation of the splits) - photo 3-5;
- side racks (20mm board) with the possibility of moving along the keel and perpendicular to it (for fixing the housing) - photo 6;
- Parallel clamps (oak 20mm).

Photo 1 photo 2

Photo 3 photos 4

Photo 5 photo 6

Photo 7 photo 8

Photo 9.

Circular saws

Photo 10 Photo 11

Photo 12 Photo 13

Photo 14 photo 15

Photo 16 photo 17

During the operation of the current circulars available at me (homemade "mini-factory" for thin planks and veneers, Fet Proxxon for thicknesses up to 20 mm and MJ10200J Feida for thicknesses up to 40mm) I came to the conclusion about the need to build a circular, devoid, if possible, deficiencies listed aggregates (design features, sometimes significantly imperative operation; time and effort spent on ensuring the accuracy of sawing; big noise, etc.).

In particular, at the Circular fet, the fet is an extremely unsuccessful assembly of the fastening of the saw disk - the clamping screw M4 with the head under the hexagon rod constantly encourages that I have already had to cut the head twice, otherwise the disc was not removed (the same flaw was noted by other models). This disadvantage of FET managed to pretty much overcome, replacing the clamping washer and the mentioned screw to others, with the head under the cape key 10 (photo 19-20).

Photo 19 photo 20

The initial ideas of the construction of the new circular was:

The main range of sawmills - wood thickness from 0.5 to 20 mm;
- Precision of sawing 0.1mm;
- sawing at various angles;
- adjustment of the table in height;
- a reliable attachment node of the saw disk and simplicity of its replacement;
- power reserving, excluding (reducing) engine overheating with long work;
- Reducing noise.

As a result of viewing and analyzing a large number of descriptions of industrial and homemade circulars, I came to the creation of a design shown in photo 21-24.

Photo 21 photos 22

Photo 23 photo 24

The spindle assembly that implements the direct drive is made according to the drawings developed by the modelist Boris B. Compared to the original drawings, the diameter of the semi-humull is reduced by 6 mm so that they do not perform the dimensions of the flange. Description of the Circular Boris B can be viewed here: http://www.shipmodeling.ru/PHPBB/ViewTopic.php?f\u003d10&t\u003d1421&start\u003d465. The direct drive, in my opinion, has a number of indisputable advantages in comparison with the belt transmission - reduces power loss, simplifies the assembly and adjustment of the cutting node, as well as the noise is substantially less than other types of cychers. drives.

The circular was used by a 370 watt motor (characteristics are shown in photo 25) from the water pump. Details of the drive are shown in photo 26. In photo 27, a form in which a cross-shaped gasket for a semi-suite was made of silicone. Photo 28 shows the details of the attachment to the table and move the stop (guide). A screw pair with a screw with a diameter of 12 mm with multigrem thread is used, one turnover of which provides smooth movement of the carriage with a stop by 12 mm along the table. The material of the spindle node - Article 45, the details of the fastening of the stop to the table - Dural D16T thickness of 15 mm, stop (guide) with a cross section of 16x20 mm from D16T, the cartade lock - D16T, screw in the M6 \u200b\u200block from Article 45, the fixative axis - the silver steel axis diameter 6 mm. The engine is standing on rubber gaskets with a thickness of 10 mm, rubber gaskets are also installed on the legs of the base, their mounting to the base and under the engine mounting bolts. Photo 29-30 shows the fastening of the spindle knot to the engine and the base. Rack fastening flange (central) 200х105x8 mm from D16T, screws fastening m8 flange, intermediate rack - plywood 24 mm (2x12 mm gluing), side racks - plywood 12 mm, fasteners - 2 mm steel, M5 screws.

Photo 25 Photo 26

Photo 27 photo 28

Photo 29 photo 30

In photo 31 - 32, a cutting unit is shown to which you can easily attach the saw tables of various sizes and structures depending on the needs (for example, with a fixed focus on the surface for the manufacture of lattices, etc.). Here they also show the saw disks with a diameter of 63, 80 and 115 mm (the main estimated dimensions). In general, the design is designed to use discs with a maximum diameter of 160 mm. In photo 33 shows the design of the saw table: The actual table is 380x330x5mm from D16T, the corner of D16T on the back is a guide to move and fix the back of the stop, the corner of D16T on the side part - to move the transport (rolling cutting). The table rotates on the steel axis with a diameter of 6 mm, the ends of which are fixed on the vertical steel racks (corners) with a thickness of 3 mm.

Making with your own hands of various crafts, furniture, independent car repair, are popular not only because of the innate ability of our people to creasing. It is also a good savings of the family budget.

However, such a hobby requires special equipment. In any house there are elementary hand tools, including electrical. Drill, screwdriver, Bulgarian, manual disk saw, electrolovik.

These fixtures facilitate the work of a home master, but with their help it is impossible to perform work professionally. The home workshop should be equipped with compact machines.

Review of homemade domestic workshops - video

This technique is in abundance offered by specialized shops.

Having equipped the workplace with such arsenal, you can make anything. But the high value of the instrument negates savings in the production of crafts.

One thing remains - make machines with your own hands. Homemade equipment can work at all worse than the factory. In addition, you can make constructive know-how to expand opportunities.

Homemade Tree Workshops

Turning machine

It can be made from existing tools. A strong table, or just a massive board installed on the legs. It will be a bed.

The clamping spindle for wooden blanks is not required. As well as a separate drive engine. There is a simple comprehensive solution - electric drill.

If there is a revolver regulator - generally wonderful. A feather drill on a tree is fixed in the cartridge. It must be modified: sharpened the working edge in the form of a trident.

The next mandatory element is the rear grandmother. In turning machines for metal, it is necessary to support long duals. When processing a tree on a machine without a clamping spindle, the backstone is a fixing element. She presses a blank to the troll, and supports it on the axis of rotation.

Typical design of the backstone on the illustration.

The cutter in such a machine is not fixed in the caliper. Wood blanks are processed by a manual chisel, which relies on the girlfriend.

Homemade milling machines on wood

The complexity of the tool depends on the type of work produced. For elementary end processing, it is enough to simply install a manual milling mill under an even worktop.

The power tool is mounted upside down, the workshop protrudes over the surface. Such homemade machines are widespread among the home masters.

Important! Industrial tools are designed and created based on security measures. The rotating mill may cause serious injury, so the mount should be reliable, and the processing zone is to have protection against the extremities of the operator.

If the bracket for manual milling is provided with a height change device, you will receive semi-professional equipment.

Each master seeks to maximize their sphere, saturate the workspace with machine equipment and fixtures. Homemade machine tools and devices for a home workshop are greatly benefited.

Among homemade economic crafts and equipment can be allocated:

joinery;
crafting table;
stool;
shelves;
racks.

Crafting table

Dimensions of the workbench

The height of the countertop surface should be such that the worker standing can operate with tools and equipment. The height of the workshop master determines itself - according to its growth. The height of the desktop varies from 75 cm to 80 cm.

The size of the countertops is determined by the area of \u200b\u200bthe utility room. The table should not prevent the free passage around it.

Vistak material

Wood
Often use wooden table. The workbench makes from a bar and boards. The feet of the table for reliability fasten with diagonal cross.

The countertop is made in the form of a shield from a knocked-up bruse cuts. The shield is based on the feet of the table and fasten with nails or screws. Details of the connections are made from steel corner.

Options for assembling a wooden workbench are different, but in one one they are one - the design of the table should be stable and withstand static and dynamic loads.

If the surface of the workbench will be subjected to random impacts of cutting and sharp tools, then the countertop is frown or put a metal sheet from above.

Metal
The most reliable design of the desktop is the workbench cooked from metal products. The manufacture of the welded product implies the presence of a welding machine and experience with it.

The support frame and the feet of the table are welded from steel corner and stripes. For utility parts use segments of reinforcement.

The countertop is made of metal sheet, 8 - 12 mm thick. Thick sheet will significantly increase the weight of the workbench, which is associated with difficulties in its move.

Stool

Stool make it yourself quite simple:

From the bar of 40 x 40 mm make 4 supports, 50 cm long.
The legs in the middle of the length are bonded by cross.
In the supports of the chisel make grooves.
At the ends of the transverse strokes, the protrusions on the size of the grooves are cut out.
The protrusions are lubricated with joinery glue and insert into the grooves.
At the time of drying, the glue supports is tightened with a belt.
The seat is filled with a disk saw from a wide board with a thickness of 30 mm.
The seat of 300 x 300 mm is nailed with nails or fasten with screws to the legs of the toaster.

Shelves

Shelves make from the board, chipboard or MDF. They are open or with side walls. For fasteners, use mounted furniture loops.

In the wall, drill holes in which dowels are driven. Screws screw in a dowel not to the end so that the shelves loops can be put on them.

The loops are screwed to the back of the shelf. Shelves hang on the wall, dressing the loops on the head of the screws.

Stellagi

Racks are a whole complex of shelves of different sizes. They are good to do from chipboard. The lattice structure is based on the pedestal or just put on the floor. For the stability of the rack, the corners are screwed to the side sides of the furniture. Free shelves of the corners with holes are nourished with a dowel to the wall.

Vertical tool holders

Each craftsman seeks to organize his workplace so that the tools are at the distance of an elongated hand. This contributes vertical holders.

Holder of wrench keys

On the wall above the workbenk fasten the wooden bar. Rake is screwed into the dowels installed in advance.
Small nails are driven into the bar with gaps equal to the width of the span keys.
The keys hang on the rail.
Hats nails hold keys in the horizontal and vertical plane.

Holder of dumping

In the segment of a bar of 40 x 40 mm, the holes are drilled by the corresponding diversion with the diameters, at a distance of 30 - 40 mm from each other.
The segment of the bar is naked to the wall of the dowels so that the holes are vertically.
Unscrewing inserted into the obtained sockets. Now you can quickly get the desired tool without leaving the workplace.

Belt for chisels

The bar is fixed with dowels to the wall.
The belt or belt is navigated with carnations to the bar so that peculiar end-to-end pockets.
The pockets are lowered by the chisels through which only steel blades pass. Handles are held with a belt.

In the device you can keep hammers, ticks, passatias and other tools.

Homemade soldering iron stand

Working with a soldering iron, the situation occurs when you need to postpone the tool. Put a soldering iron with a declared stale on a tabletop or any item - always risky. The homemade stand will solve this problem.

Example of making support for soldering iron

The holder is made of wire in the form of a spiral. To do this, the wire hanger is inflicted.
Wires are wound on a cylindrical object, a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. It will suit the chisel knob or another tool.
On the one hand, the spring leaves the free end of the wire.
The end bend the rounds into the loop.
For the base of the stand take a board of 200 x 100 x 20 mm.
Based on the end-to-end hole Ø 4 mm.
From the back side of the board, the hole is drilled by a large drill - under the screw head.
The screw is from bottom to top.
On the screw dress the springs loop and tighten the nut.
In the board, the crown cut circles under the size of the cup for candles or similar products.
The chisel makes the sample of wood in 3 recesses.
Inserted cups, which are filled with solder, tin and napkin to clean the sting.
The soldering iron is inserted into the spring.
The board make a small hole for fastening the flexible steel cord from the lamp.
At the end of the cord, the clamp is fixed, which fix various parts for soldering.

The design may have a different look - it all depends on the imagination and the author's ingenuity.

The simplest mousetrap in the world

This name can be assigned to many homemade mousetres, invented by craftsmen. They are united by one - this is a humane treatment with animals who fell into the trap. The device does not kill the animal, but isolates it. Several examples, how to make a simple mousetrap:

Plastic funnel

Cutting plastic 3 liter balloon in half. The sliced \u200b\u200bneck is turned over and insert it into the lower part of the bottle. At the bottom, the bait (seeds, grain and so on) is embroidered.

The trap put a close item by which the mouse could climb. Rodent, having fallen into a funnel, can no longer get out of the bottle.

Console

The design is a tipping platform. She is made of a piece of cardboard or plastic. The bar is placed on the plane so that its half has pissed in the air.

The bait is placed on the edge of the console so that the plank is on the verge of equilibrium. The animal, having reached the bait, overturns the bar and falls along with it into the substituted bucket.

Suspension

On the edge of the table is put a blank plastic bottle with bait at the bottom. The cord is fixed to the neck, pushing the plastic with a crochet from the stationery clips. The other end of the cord is tied to any support.

The mouse attracted by the smell of food penetrates the tank. A bottle overturns under the severity of the rodent and hangs on the cord.

Mini vice from a metal loop

When performing minor operations, it is often necessary to hold small parts. For this use mini vice made from an indefinite door loop.

The coinciding holes are drilled in both hinge sash.

They have a suitable diameter bolt. On the other hand, the bolt thread is screwed. Details are created in the opening between the sash and clamp, spinning the nut. The device can be used as a clamp.

Beer portable

Box for drinks in glass containers - a convenient tool to carry several bottles at once in the country or picnic. To make this drawer with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

Instruments

electrolovik;
saw on a tree;
schlifmashinka;
drill-screwdriver;
drill;
a hammer;
chisel;
feather drill.

Materials

edged board - 1050 x 170 x 15 mm;
planks from the fruit box - 5 pcs.;
stalk Ø 36 mm and 350 mm long;
morilka;
screws;
nails.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling box

The edged board is collected by three identical parts (bottom and two sidewalls), 350 mm long.
Two boards are cut off by an electrolybic so that from their middle of the sidewalls, the oval vertex is frightened and end.
In the vertices, the sidewall is drilled by a feather drill hole Ø 36 mm.
All wooden parts are cleaned with grinding with a sandpaper. Skyrenok sketch manually emery.
Thin drill drill 4 holes on the edges of the bottom. On the bottom of the openings of the holes are annkedy.
The sidewalls are installed on the sides of the bottom. Screws screw the bottom at the bottom. Heads of screws "hide" in the holes of the holes.
Two planks from each side of the box are nauseated to the sidewalls of cloves. They will become a vertical fence for bottles.
In three boards, they make feeds so as to arouse them, it turned out a doomer with square loops under the glass container.
The makeup laid on the bottom between the sidewalls.
Carnations are naked in those places where the ends of the roasters rest in the sidewalls and enclosing strips.
In the holes of the vertices, sidewalls do a stalk Ø 36 mm.
Driving nails at an angle, bonded sidewalls with a stalk.
The entire surface of the box is treated with a mourn.

Box is ready for use. In portable capacitance, 6 bottles of beer or other beverage are freely placed. Dooming and box fencing will not give bottles during carrying breakdown or fall out.

Modernization hammer

Frequent phenomenon is a loss of a wooden handle from a hammer nest. One of the ways to create a reliable attachment of the handle - in the upper end of the handle do the cut. The holder is inserted into the hammer nest. Propyl is filled with "moment" glue. In the groove drive a wooden wedge.

In order to do not look for nails while working, and even more so - do not keep their teeth, a round magnet is glued into the handle in the handle. Nails on the magnet will always be at hand of the employee.
Dangerly random dropping hammer from hand at height. So that this does not happen, the hole is drilled in the handle, through which the cord has been told. The worker believes in the loop.

Homemade tools and machines

Pipe bender

Fixture for flexing metal pipes is a metal rod welded to the bed. I make a rod from cutting reinforcement. The pipe is dressed on the pin, and on the other hand, a long segment of reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. Pressing the lever, the pipe bend under the desired angle. The device is suitable for small segments of round pipes.

Fixture for flexing profiled pipes

The owners of greenhouse farms know how important it is to be a device for flexing the lengths from the profile pipe. The curved profile is used as an arched construction for the formation of polyethylene coatings of greenhouses.

Pipe bender allows you to save considerable money on the construction of the greenhouse. The design consists of 3 rollers - two are guides, and the third roller performs the master function.

The profile tube is set in the opening between two wheels and a rink. The roller has an emphasis and a rotary device in the form of a lever or drive of an electric motor.

Production of pipe-bender do it yourself

Two axis from the segments of smooth reinforcements are welded to the metal bed, which dresses old car hubs.
From the hubs remove protruding chamfers so that the side surfaces of the rollers were smooth.
In the opening between the hubs put the channel shelves up.
In the channel invests the same profile less than the width of the shelves down.
To the inner profile, the axis is welding from above, to which the third hub is dressed.
To the bed welded a vertical shelf of steel sheet.
The vertical bar cut the hole and the bearing will be pressed into it.
On the middle channel, the nut is fixed with a nut.
One end of the screw rod is screwed into the nut.
The screw shank is drawn through the bearing in the vertical bar.
On the back side of the plank to the shank weld the rotary handle.
A swivel lever is welded to the axis of the leading hub.

The machine is ready to work. A profile tube is created between the rollers and clamp it with a screw. The swivel lever is driven by rollers that stretch the pipe, flexing it. The bend radius is installed by a rotary knob of the screw.

Pipe bender from car hubs is one of the variants of devices. There are many designs of bending devices. In some models, the presenter roller is coaxially connected with the motor shaft.

Shock rebreak

There are situations where you cannot unscrew the rusted bolt or screw. Impact dumping with this business perfectly copes. The tool is made with their own hands from the parts of the automotive starter:

A shaft and sleeve remove from the starter housing.
The shaft is cut off, leaving the rod with the slots.
On the sleeve we dress the cut pipe, suitable size.
By the end of the pipe, the trim of the bolt of equal diameter is welded.
The end of the shaft is calculated in the form of a quadrupleman, which dresses the heads of the desired size. For screws in the head insert the bit.

When hitting the hammer on the bolt head, the shaft slides the slopes inside the sleeve, performing a rotational movement. The stronger the blow, the higher the shaft turns the shaft.

Homemade circular saw

The cutting machine from the Bulgarian, made by their own hands, is not inferior to some samples of factory manufacture. Bulgarian is a rather powerful manual circular saw.

The brand-based machine performs precise cuts of sawn timber and metal products. For its manufacture, it will take the power tools, welding machine and metal-plastic.

Step-by-step instruction assembling machine

Two metal slats are welded to the pipe cut, in which the mounting holes are drilled.
Accordingly, the Bulgarian casing also makes two holes.
The planks are screwed to bolts to the casing.
Make a steel sheet from a metal sheet with a welded back corner.
The welding is fixed to the bed vertical segment of the corner in which the hole is drilled.
To the lower end of the lever, the segment of the corner is welded and drilled along with a pipe through.
The bolt is drawn through the holes and the nut tighten the hinge joint of the vertical rack with the lever. Additionally set locknut.
In the vertical position, the lever of the grinder takes a stable position.
In the place of contacting the saw blade with the bed, they cut the disk to completely cut the workpiece.
The handle of the power tool is rearranged at the end of the lever.
As additional devices, a cross and corner stop are installed on the bed.

If necessary, the power tools are removed from the machine and use a circular saw in manual mode.

Homemade Basic Pila

Great sawing a convenient tool for sawing the trunks of trees and sawn timber. The design of the saw is simple, make a hand tool with your own hands easy. To do this, you need to prepare tools and materials:

Instruments

drill;
saw-knife;
chisel;
a hammer;

Materials

cord;
wooden rail 20 x 40 mm;
slingles - 2 pcs.;
stalk Ø 10 mm;
saw blade;
morilka;
wooden varnish.

Step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of an archery saw

Rake is cut into three parts (two vertical side planks and an average horizontal bar).
In the side handles of the chisel make grooves.
At the ends of the center, the styers cut out the protrusions under the grooves.
The furnace is connected to the side handles.
In places of compounds drill through holes. They are clogged with wooden spop.
Shplops form hinged connections. This is necessary for the mobility of the lower ends of the side rails when tensioning the web.
In the lower ends of the sidewalls make feeders - parallel to the student.
In the holes of the saw blade insert short bolts and tighten them with nuts.
The canvas start to the cuts so that the bolts are outside the design.
In the upper ends of the handles cut circular grooves.
At the ends of the double cord make loops that dress on the grooves.
A stalk is inserted between the values \u200b\u200bof the cord, the long end of which rests in the furnace.
The feed of the saws is spinning with a cutter, seeking the desired degree of tension of the saw blade.
Wood is covered with a mourn and two layers of varnish.
After drying, the varnish saw ready to work.

Conclusion

Homemade devices, tools and machine tools bring not only a significant benefit to the native, garage and household, but also significantly save the family budget. In the manufacture and use of homemakes, you can not forget about safety rules.

Currently, you can buy ready-made machines, to equip your own workshop, but all this will cost quite expensive. Homemade machines will be helped by the master in his practical workAt the same time will not burden his budget. Why buy what you can do with your own hands, and even in relation to specific conditions.

Equipping your own workshop every owner chooses himself. It depends on the features of the hobby. Type of work and area of \u200b\u200bpremises. The minimum home workshop area in which it makes sense to place equipment is 3-4 m².

It can be located in a small room or on the balcony of the apartment, a separate building on its own area or in the garage. The ideal option is a secluded room in which you can make noise without interfering with other people.

In its intended home workshop may be universal. For any work, unexpectedly arising in everyday life, or have a specific directionassociated with the passion of the wizard. Most often, workshops are equipped for working with wood, i.e. for carpentry work. Quite often appears the need for metal processing ( flooring work) I. car repair.

In general, the arrangement of the domestic workshop includes such elements:

designs for placing tools and materials (racks, shelves, cabinets);
equipment for work (workbenches, desktops);
machine tools for processing materials;
adaptations for mechanization of work, relief, tool preparation, etc.

It is necessary to place the equipment so that it was Free approach, observed safety and Fireproof NormsThe minimum comfort was ensured.

Shelves for tools and materials

Homemade workshop arrangement begins from installing practical shelves For the tool with your own hands. They can be made of metal or wood, as well as having a combined design - metal frame with wood shelves, plywood, chipboard, plastic, etc.

These are allocated basic designs:

Racks in the form of a frame and shelves located at different heights.
Shelves fixed on the wall. They can be installed on brackets or attached to dowels directly to the wall surface.
Suspended shelves with ceiling mount.

Practical shields shields have such a design. The basis is a shield carved from plywood with a thickness of 8-12 mm.

It is mounted for fastenings of 3 types:

rake with slots to place a tool with a handle in a vertical position (hammer, screwdriver, chisels, etc.);
shelves with a side for installing boxes with a small tool (drills, taps, dice, etc.);
hooks for hanging a small tool (knife, scissors, measuring instrument, etc.).

Such a shelf shield is fixed on the wall with a dowel.

Carpentry workbench

Joiner's workbench is a durable table with a working surface on which they are fixed. holdfast (2 pieces), Fixators To secure the workpiece when planing, places are provided for installation mill and other manual machines.

Important. The size of the workbench is selected, based on practical considerations.

The height should ensure the convenience of working, taking into account the actual growth of the wizard. Length should be not less than 1 m (usually 1.7-2 m), and width - 70-80 cm.

Instructions for the manufacture of joinery workbench:

The working surface is manufactured in the form of a shield with tightly fitted boards with a thickness of at least 55 mm. Best suitable beech, oak, ram. Previously, they should be impregnated with oil. Hardening is achieved by a timing of 4-5 cm in size, which is attached throughout the perimeter of the shield.
Vertical table supports can be made of pine or linden. Typically, a ram with a size of 12x12 or 15x15 cm in length of about 120-135 cm is used. The reference elements are connected by horizontal jumpers from a wide board, fixed at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor.
Storage of tools and fixtures are made on the shelves, which are located under the lid. It is better to produce them in the form of a handset with the door. Shields-shelves can be placed on the wall above the workbench.
A pair of homemade or factory joinery piscses is attached to the work surface.

reference. The workbench can be mobile (mobile), folding (collapsible) or stationary. In the latter case, it is recommended to burst into the ground by 15-20 cm.

Vice

For homemade vice, a long screw rod will need with a diameter of at least 20 mm With a threaded length of at least 14-16 cm, metal studs and wooden bars.

The manufacture is carried out in the following order:

A wooden bar (can be made of pine) in size of about 20x30 cm and a thickness of at least 5 cm, in which the screw hole is drilled in the center, and at the bottom 2 holes for the guide spills. This first sponge of the vice is inpatiently fixed on the working surface.
The second sponge is cut from a similar board and has 20x18 cm sizes. It will be a mobile element.
Through the sponges skipped a screw pin. To eliminate the displacement of the elements, the studs are fixed with a diameter of about 8-10 mm. A knob is installed on the screw rod.

How to make a plumbing workbench from metal with your own hands?

For fitter work, a metal workbench will be required. Standard size: length 1.8-2.1 m, width - 0.7-0.8 m, height - 0.9-1.2 m. Manufacturing includes such steps:

Build a workbench frame with the attachment of longitudinal stiffness.
Assembly and fixation of 2 Tumbas in the form of a frame, covered with a metal sheet.
Installation of the working surface - a wooden shield, covered on top of a metal sheet.
Installation of a rack for a tool that is fixed on the back of the workbench and additionally strengthens it.

rack beams - profile pipe with a wall of at least 2 mm in size 4x6 cm. Needed - 4 pcs.;
5x4 cm beams for horizontal ligaments racks providing longitudinal rigidity. Quantity - 3 pcs.;
profiled pipe (9 pcs) for the manufacture of a carcass of the Tumbas size of about 4x3 cm with a thickness of the walls of at least 1 mm.;
corner 5x5 cm for vertical racks with a height of 1.5-2 m. For horizontal linking, you can apply a 4x4 cm corner;
board for tabletops with a thickness of at least 5 cm;
metal sheet for a working surface with a thickness of at least 6-8 mm.

Features of the creation of a lathe on a tree

A homemade lathe for working with wooden blanks includes the following items:

Stanina. It should have sufficient strength. It is better to make it from a metal profile (tube, corner), but you can also from a wooden bar. It is important to securely secure the frame on the floor of the workshop and dragging the design at the bottom.
Front grandmother or clamp spindle. As this element, the machine can be used the head from the drill of high power.
Rear grandmother. In order to provide longitudinal billet feed, it is better to use a standard factory spindle with 3-4 cams.
Caliper or focus for cutters. It must ensure reliable fixing and the possibility of moving towards the workpiece, which is provided by a screw rod.
Tool table. On the face you should form a working surface on which you can decompose the cutters and another tool.
Drive unit. To create a torque, an electric motor is used at a speed of rotation of 1500 rev / min with a power of 250-400 W. You can apply the engine from the washing machine. A belt transmission is used as a transmission, for which the pulleys are installed on the shafts.

Cutters

Even in a homemade lathe is better to use factory cuttersthat will provide high quality. However, if desired, you can do on this issue on your own. Homemade cutters Wood can be made of the following materials:

Steel fittings. The best option is a square section with a size close to the size of the factory instrument.
Foods. The worn tool is selected, but without significant defects.
Automotive springs Rectangular (square) sections.

Prepared billets of rubber attached. For draft work, a semicircular cutting edge is used, and during finishing, you need a cutter with a straight blade. In addition, the shaped and passing cutters with a specific sharpening may be required. Next, cutting part requires quenching. For this, it is heated, and then lowered into the engine oil.

Instructions for creating a stationary circular saw

The most important element of the stationary circular saw - reliable table with work surface. For it, the most suitable metal sheet, strengthened rigid ribs from the steel corner. On the working countertop there are such details: cutting disk, guides, stubborn and regulating elements.

The drive is provided electric motor Power of about 0.8 kW at a minimum speed of 1,700 rpm. Transmission - belt transmission.

Make a circular saw can be from the Bulgarian in the following order:

Mounting frame and manufacturing work surface. Slowing space to install the disk.
Fixing parallel stops from a wooden bar.
Installation of the scales for adjusting the cutting process.
Installation of clamps for fixing guides and blanks.
Fastening the grinder from the bottom of the table top with the direction of the disk into the slot.

Build homemade drilling machine

Procedure for assembling homemade drilling machine shown in the video below. Its base is an electrode, which is fixed on the bed with the possibility of vertical movement.

Main elements of the machine:

Electric drill.
Metal base with locks for the workpiece (clamp).
Rack for fastening a drill. It can be made of 2-2.5 cm chipboard. A good option is the base from the old photographer.
Mechanism feeding the cutting tool. Racks are installed on the rack, providing strictly vertical movement of a drill. The easiest way tooling the instrument is lever for manual pressing and springs. Adjustable stops are mounted for monitoring depth.

CNC milling machines for wood and metal

With milling of wooden parts software Allows you to significantly expand the capabilities of the machine and the quality of processing. For its formation, such elements are installed as lPT port and CNC unit. For the manufacture of the copier, you can use the carriages of the old matrix printer.

Build a milling mill for wood is carried out in the following order:

The table top is made of chipboard or plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm.
A cut for cutter and its installation is done.
The drive, transmission and spindle machine are fixed.
Mounted stops and limiters.

Metal milling complex requires strong foundation For machine:

Installation of columns and races in the form of the letter "P". Elements are made from steel chapeller. In the P-shaped design, the jumper forms the base of the tool itself.
The guide elements are performed from the steel corner and on the bolts are installed on the column.
Guide consoles are made from a rectangular pipe. The screw pin is inserted into them. The console movement is provided with the help of a car jack to a height of up to 12-15 cm.
The working countertop is made of chipboard or plywood.
The tabletop is fixed by vice guides from a metal corner, pin locks.
The rotating part is installed so that the shaft is located vertically.

Raysumovoy Machine

The homemade paysmus machine on a tree includes such elements:

Stanina. It is made of 2 frames welded from angle 40x40 or 50x50 mm. The frames are connected by studs.
Broach. Well fit the frills rollers from rubber from the washing machine. They dressed on bearings, and rotate manually using the handle.
Working surface, table top. A wide board, impregnated with oil, is used, which is fixed on the bed with bolts.
Drive unit. We need a three-phase electric motor with a capacity of 5-6 kW at a speed of rotation of at least 3000 rpm.
Casing. To protect the rotating parts, the casing of their steel sheet is 4-5 mm thick, fixed on the frame from the steel corner of 20x20 mm.

note

You can use the worker electrolabanok..

It is fixed by clamps on the working surface with the formation of the required clearance. This gap should be adjusted with the help of pads and exhibit taking into account the thickness of the workpiece.

Creating a grinding machine on a tree

Homemade grinding machine has drum design. Rotating cylinder with bowed on it sandpaper (grinding) skirt. It can be made such varieties:

planeShlyliform type that provides grinding only in one plane;
planetary type capable of processing the item in different directions, creating a flat plane on it;
circular sloping Type for processing cylindrical blanks.

When fixing the abrasive canvase, recommendations should be taken into account:

The width of the tape is selected about 20-25 cm.
The connection of the bands is made, without clearance.
To harden the docking seam under it the dense tape is stacked.
Use only high-quality glue.
The shaft for the emery strip has a side of 2.5-4 mm on the edges.
As a substrate for an abrasive element, it is recommended to use fine rubber (for example, a bicycle camera).

The rules of operation of the fugoval machine on wood

The homemade fugoval machine will help when repairing furniture and apartments. During its operation, such rules should be followed:

The setting of the Fugank is made so that such maximum errors are provided - vertical (perpendicular) - not more than 0.11 mm per 1 cm; In the plane - not more than 0.16 mm per 1 m.
When processing billets of less than 3.5x35 cm, the pushers should be used to hold them.
The wear of the cutting element indicates the fasteners and mossiness on the surface of the part.
An uneven surface after processing indicates the inaccurate location of the cutting edges.

Homemade garage fixtures

In the conditions of a domestic workshop, equipped in the garage, you can repair your car with your own hands. In particular, interest represent the following homemade devices and machines.

Hydraulic jack press

He will help when extracting and crimping silent blocks car. With it, it provides a load of several hundred kg.

The design consists of a frame and a hydraulic jack. The frame is welded from a rectangular pipe of high strength.

After lifting the car, it becomes stationary, reliable support for the car.

This allows you to safely empty the jam with the use of internal subsidiaries From the bearing.

Embrellator of ball support

It can be made in a different way:

Lever type. This is 2 levers connected in the center. On the one hand, a hole bolt is installed on them. When exposed to support, it is twisted, bringing the ends of the levers. At the same time, one end starts between the support and an eye, the second is under the finger.
Option "Wedge". A blank is cut out of a metal plate in the form of a wedge. From the side of the upper angle is made strictly vertical slot to 70% of height. Such a wedge is established between the ball support and the eye. Next it is clogged until the finger comes out of the nest.

Many home masters are thinking about how to independently make a lathe for metal. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of a similar device, it will be at all inexpensive, it is possible to effectively perform a large list of turning operations, giving the required dimensions and shape to harvests from the metal. It would seem that much easier to purchase the simplest tabletop and use it in your workshop, but considering the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time to make it with your own hands.

Homemade lathe - it is quite real

Using a lathe

A lathe that one of the first appeared in the line of equipment for processing parts from different materials, including from metal, allows you to make products of various shapes and sizes. With the help of such an aggregate, you can perform the sharpening of the external and internal surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and clean them to the desired size, cut out the outer or inner thread, perform the pump in order to give the surface of the product of the desired relief.

The serial lathe for metal is a dimensional device, which is not so easy to manage, and its cost is very difficult to name available. Use such an aggregate as desktop equipment is not easy, so it makes sense to do it yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn the turning on the blanks, made not only from the metal, but also of plastic and wood.

In such equipment, it is processed by parts having a round cross section: axis, handles of tools, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products of any other destination. In such devices, the blank is located in a horizontal plane, with it the rotation is attached, and the excess material removes the cutter, reliably fixed in the machine caliper.

Despite the simplicity of its design, such an aggregate requires a clear coherence of movements of all working bodies so that the processing is carried out with the utmost accuracy and the best performance.

Example of homemade lathe with drawings

Let us consider in more detail one of the working options collected by your own lathe, a rather high quality of which rightfully deserves close attention. The author of this self-causing did not even shake the drawings for which this device was successfully manufactured.

Of course, not everyone needs to be so a thorough approach to the case, often more simple designs are built for homework, but as a donor for good ideas, this machine is suitable as it is not better.

Exterior view of the machine Basic nodes Caliper, Merzhetel and Cartridge
Side view Back Grandma View from below to the backstone
Guide Shaft Caliper Design Drive from Engine
Drawing №1 Drawing №2 Drawing №3

Construction knots

Any, including homemade, the lathe consists of the following structural elements: the carrier frame - the beds, two centers - the leading and slave, two bars - front and rear, spindle, caliper, drive unit - electric motor.

On the bed there are all elements of the device, it is the main carrier element of the lathe. The front grandmother is a fixed element of the structure on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front of the frame there is a transmitter mechanism of the machine, with which its rotating elements are associated with the electric motor.

It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the processed billet receives the rotation. The rear grandmother, unlike the front, can move in parallel to the processing direction, with its help fix the free end of the workpiece treated.

A homemade lathe for metal can be equipped with any electric motor not even too high power, but such an engine can overheat when processing large-sized blanks, which will lead to its stop and possibly failure.

Usually, electric motors are installed on the homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800-1500 W.

Even if such an electric motor is characterized by a small amount of revolutions, the problem is solved by selecting the appropriate transfer mechanism. For the transmission of torque from such electric motors, belt transmissions are usually used, friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

Turning mini-machines that are equipped with homemade workshops may not even have in their design of such a gear ratio: the rotating cartridge of the unit is fixed directly on the motor shaft.

There is one important rule: both center of the machine, master and slave, should be located strictly on one axis, which will avoid the vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for logging models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is solved with a cam chuck or a tablet.

In fact, the lathe can be made with their own hands with a wooden frame, but, as a rule, for these purposes, profiles from metal are used. The high stiffness of the lathe frame is obligatory in order for the accuracy of the location of the lead and the slave center, the mechanical loads have an impact, and its rear grandmother and the caliper with the tool were easily moved along the axis of the aggregate.

Collecting the lathe for metal, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, necessarily taking into account the loads that they will be subject to during work. On what dimensions will be at your mini-machine, and from which structural elements it will consist, it will be to influence both the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the billets that it is planned to be processed. From these parameters, and the magnitude of the planned load on the unit will depend on the power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive.

To equip turning machines for metal, it is not recommended to choose collector electric motors, characterized by one characteristic feature. The number of revolutions of the shaft of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force, which the processed workpiece develops, increase sharply with a reduction in the load, which can lead to the fact that the item simply crashes out of the cartridge and can seriously injure the operator.

Such electric motors are allowed to be used if you plan to handle small and non-heavy parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, it is necessary to equip a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

It has already been proven by practice and design calculations, which for turning units, which will be treated with metal blanks up to 70 cm long and a diameter of up to 10 cm, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a capacity of 800 W. The engines of this type are characterized by the stability of the rotational speed in the presence of the load, and when it decreases, it does not occur its uncontrolled increase.

If you are going to independently make a mini-machine for carrying out turning on metal, then it is necessary to take into account the fact that not only transverse, but also longitudinal loads will affect its cartridge. Such loads, if not to provide for belt transmission, can cause the destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not calculated on them.

If you use the belt transmission there is no possibility, and the leading device center is directly connected to the motor shaft, you can provide a number of measures that protect its bearings from destruction. Such a measure can be stopped, limiting the longitudinal movement of the engine shaft, which can be used in the ball, installed between the electric motor case and the rear end of its shaft.

In the backstart of the lathe is located its slave center, which can be fixed or free to rotate. The most simple design is a fixed center: it is easy to make on the basis of an ordinary bolt, sharpening and polling the cone of the one part that will come into contact with the workpiece. Due to screwing or unscrewing such a bolt moving along the threaded hole in the backstone, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the equipment centers, thereby providing reliable fixation of the workpiece. Such a fixation is ensured and due to the movement of the backstone itself.

In order for the detail being processed freely in such a fixed center, a pointed part of the bolt, which comes into contact with it, it will be necessary to lubricate with machine oil before starting work.

Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of turning machines for which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos demonstrating the process of their manufacture. It can be a mini-machine with a CNC or a very simple device, which, however, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor costs to make metal products of various configurations.

The stands of the simplest lathe for metal can be made of wood. They will need to securely fix on the unit of the unit using bolted compounds. The Bed itself, if there is an opportunity, it is better to make from metal corners or a channel, which will provide her high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also choose thick wooden bars.

The video below shows the process of self-making caliper for the lathe.