What a primer for carbon film. Methods of pasting cars with film
This transparent yellowish liquid is used to increase the stickiness of a wide variety of self-adhesive materials. Speaking by technical language, enhances the initial adhesion of the adhesive layers.
Where applies.
The scope of application is not limited to anything other than the manufacturer's recommendations (3M), which is, by the way, recognized by the leader worldwide. Under the recommendations implies permissible materials on the surface of which the film is pasted. It:- Polyethylene.
- Thermoplastic resin (it is ABS).
- PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PBT (polybutylene terephthalate).
- Metals.
- Smooth concrete surfaces.
- Wood.
- Glass.
- Painted surfaces.
So, in any field where the materials are followed, this drug can be used.
For what is necessary.
Despite the fact that the self-adhesive base of the films is quite effective when applied to a flat plane, on the edges of the adhesive effect is insufficient. As a result, the edge of the film is peeled and bend. To this not happened, the primer is applied, missing them problem areas. But it is on a flat plane, but if it has bends, curvature and concreteness, then without this drug it is impossible to do without this drug.The film is not only elastic, but also the elastic. Therefore, it tries to adopt the initial (level) appearance, which means, in all concave places it tries to turn off from the surface. The same happens around the curved places.
The use of primer provides excellent adhesion of the film with the surface even in the most difficult places.
How to use.
1. It is recommended to prevent and clean the places from pollution. To do this, it is desirable to apply isopropyl alcohol in half with water.2. Give purified places to dry well.
3. How to break the contents of the cans so that the drug adopt a homogeneous structure.
4. Equally apply a layer of primer to the prepared areas of the covered surface. The layer should be thin and the same in thickness throughout. For applying, you can use any suitable tool (brush, sponge, etc.).
5. Leave 5-7 minutes to absolute drying.
Next, you can begin direct salary, but in some cases it is recommended to apply the 2nd layer of the drug before. For example, if the surface has a porous structure and the 1st layer partially absorbed inside.
Naturally, the 2nd layer should also be given to dry.
If you need to remove the applied primer layer, then this can be done with the help of all the same isopropyl alcohol.
Characteristics.
The product has amber tint and pronounced solvent smell.It is stored for 1 year, subject to the observance of non-hard requirements - so that it is in a tightly closed original packaging.
Produced in metal banks at 0.946 and 0.237 liters.
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3M 94 films primer is used to improve the adhesion of vinyl films to such surfaces like, polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, concrete, wood, glass, metal and painted metal surfaces.
We draw your attention to that initially the primer comes to our store of liter cans, and then bottling in the glass bottles of 30ml.
Price: 500 rub.
In garbage
Preparation of the surface: the surface of the application must be clean and dry. Contaminated surfaces should be cleaned with a solution of isopropyl alcohol and water in a proportion of 50/50, after wiped with a clean cloth.
Application: Shake Prica 3M primer 94 before use. Apply a thin uniform layer to the surface using the minimum amount that will completely cover the surface. Give the primer to dry before applying the film. Usually it takes 5 minutes at room temperature. Be careful, the primed surface must be kept clean before pasting film. Porous surfaces may require re-processing, for uniform coating and good adhesion. Give the primer to dry before re-applying. You can use a brush or tampon to apply primer.
Clean: 3M primer 94 can be removed from the surface with the help of isopropyl alcohol. It may take some effort.
Note: Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. Obtained precautions!
Primer 3m or In other words, adhesion amplifier is a transparent liquid with a sharp smell.
Why do you need a 3M 94 primer?!
This product, which has not yet has any analogues from other manufacturers, was developed by 3m, world leader in the manufacture of car accessories, chemistry, etc. Its main purpose is to enhance the adhesive effect of films, tape or other self-adhesive materials. Prime 3m 94 - not a replaceable assistant when pasting a car film! Without it, no serious work is done.
Why do I need primer 3m 94 when pasting a car film?!
Prica 3m 94 in the original packaging.
All films for car styling have a self-adhesive basis, everyone knows. Why then primer, you ask?! Everything is simple, in those places where the film is exposed to stretching its adhesive layer also stretches and thinned, for each centimeter of the covered surface - the glue becomes smaller, the film should be helped to help hold onto the body, and here the primer 3M comes into force! This is especially necessary when pasting concave planes! Launching the previously estimated area of \u200b\u200bPRER 3m we are reinsured from not pleasures that often occur if this is not done. Especially at the edges of the details, the film under Carbon loves to spare, and in the deepening - to swear, that is why it is necessary to use the primer 3m.
What to do if the film under carbon drank?!
We often ask this question. This situation can be corrected without the need to cross the part of the car if it is noted during it. Particulary If the film dug up on the 2nd, 3rd day after pastingand you immediately noticed this - you need to carefully beatenly rejected the film (but if the location is too littered and the dust has already managed to stick or even dirt - it's late to save the situation), wipe the area under the film, and then apply primer 3m 94.and, waiting 5 minutes while Primer dries, paste the film.
Technical information Primer 94 3m:
Product description:
Prica 94 can be used to increase adhesion to such surfaces such as polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, combination PET / PBT, concrete, wood, glass, metal and painted metal surfaces.
Physical properties:
Preparation of the surface:
The area on which primer 94 is applied must be clean and dry. To clean the contaminated surface, it is recommended to use a mixture of 1: 1 isopropyl alcohol with water.
Application:
Before use, a jar with primer 94 must be shaken. Apply a thin homogeneous layer on the glued surface using the minimum amount required for uniform coating of the entire plane. Give the time to the primer 94 dry, before making a gluing. Usually it takes 5 minutes in room temperature. Make sure the area on which the primer is applied is free from pollution.
For porous surfaces, it may be necessary to re-apply primer 94 to achieve the coating homogeneity and good adhesion. In this case, it is necessary to let me dry by the first layer of PRIMER 94 and only to apply the second layer.
Primer 94 can be applied with a brush or tampon.
Cleaning:
To remove primer 94 used. *
Storage Term:
12 months from the date of receipt by the Customer, subject to the following conditions:
Primer is stored in the original packaging.
Packaging (jar) is tightly closed to prevent the solvent evaporation.
We admire the primer 94 3m when pasting cars, phones, laptops and other devices, and be sure that the film will not break off tomorrow!
From uv. Arsen Mail.
As you know, the primacy of successful color is priming. The soil is a kind of foundation, which builds all further layers of paintwork, both factory and repair.
Most mistakes allowed by masters at the stage of priming are associated not so much with the lack of painting skills (they just come very quickly), as with a lack of knowledge about the properties of various primers, with insufficient awareness of the right techniques for working with one or another product. Want you do not want, and the complexity of the modern system of repair soil affects.
Indeed, each solid manufacturer of repair materials today offers a wide gamut of soils. We will try to understand this manifold and answer the question: whether it is always necessary to use primer, and if so, what exactly to choose in each case.
Today you will find out
Soil (from the German GRUND - base, soil) - the coating base, the intermediate layer on which paint is applied.
Big Encyclopedic Dictionary
Talking about the soils used in the car repair, I would like to start with a brief excursion to the automotive manufacturer: let's see what operations are preceded by the body color on the conveyor and for which the primer needs. As they say, everything is easier to know in comparison.
Before hitting the painting shop from a tin-body, car body, first of all, carefully degreased and washed to get rid of the contamination obtained during the rolling of steel and the manufacture of the body on the conveyor.
Then the body is directed to chemical treatment - phosphating. This procedure is carried out by immersing the body into phosphating solution, after which the finest film of iron and zinc phosphates is formed on the surface of the metal, which protects the metal from corrosion and provides high adhesion both to the metal itself and the subsequent layers of the system.
Degreasing and phosphating must both for galvanized sheets, which are increasingly used in the manufacture of body and its parts.
After phosphating, the body is washed again and dried, after which a layer of water-fastened primer with anti-corrosion additives is applied. Application is carried out by the method of cathode or anode deposition. In the first case, the process is called cataphoresis, in the second - analogue.
Cataphoresis is better than Anathoresis - it provides more reliable anti-corrosion protection of welds and hidden cavities. The thickness of the cataphoresis of the soil reaches 20 microns, and the coating of electrodeposition ensures the formation of a uniform coating on both horizontal and vertical surfaces, and hard-to-reach places, hidden cavities, gaps are perfectly drunk.
To date, the analog buildings for the color of the bodies are practically no left, they are all ousted by cataphones.
Next, the cataphorous layer passes a high-temperature drying (180 ° C), after which another one, the last primer is applied - leveling. It performs a double function: first, fills and smoothes micronether, creating a homogeneous substrate under enamel, and secondly, it serves as a peculiar damper that protects the paint from chips and cracks. From corrosion, unlike cataphoraous, leveling ground does not protect.
Finally, after drying and grinding, a decorative coating is applied to the primed surface.
Body at the factory (BMW 7 series)
Conveyor technologies are not better illustrated by us the fact that it is impossible (at least yet) in one material at a sufficient quality level to combine and anti-corrosion, and leveling, and depreciation and decorative functions. Even the most modern auto-emails will not provide a qualitative and durable result without careful surface preparation, without the formation of a reliable basis for a decorative coating.
And now it's time to move to the main theme of our conversation - repair primers.
Primers for car repair
Like the soil used on the conveyor, all primers for repair color are divided into two large groups:
- primary - the so-called primers (from Agl. Prime - the main, main),
- secondary - Fillers (from the English. Fill - fill, fill).
Materials used in repair painting differ from the plant used at the factory (according to the application method, drying modes, viscosity, method of surface preparation, etc.). But the functions are exactly the same. Primary are needed to protect the metal from corrosion and ensuring a durable grip of a paint coating with the surface of the part. Secondary - to level the minor irregularities of the painted surface, creating a homogeneous substrate under the enamel and protection of the LCP from chips.
There are soils that have properties and primers and fillers at the same time. Naturally, various materials also use different materials for applying for metal and plastic.
But first things first. Let's start with primary primer for metal.
Primary soils (primers)
The primary soil is Herb, he is an anti-corrosion, he is adhesive. The zones of its use are plots of bare metal, places that are most susceptible to corrosion.
Such primers have excellent adhesion to the metal, because it is not necessary to forget that in addition to the protective, the primary primer performs another, no less important function: on it, as on the foundation, the entire repair system is built, the main requirement of which is a good adhesion of each subsequent material. with the previous one. Therefore, the replacement of this material or its exception can cause the whole system to scatter as a card house.
Providing good adhesion - only half of the task that the primary primer solves. His anti-corrosion properties are equally important.
It would seem that today, when most cars are painted along a two-layer system (base + varnish), and the lacquer layer is durable and practically moisture reform, the anti-corrosion soil is not so necessary.
Indeed, if modern authermal is painted with iron fence, the metal will continue for long-to-years. But we are painting with you not fences, but a car body, but with them the situation is much more complicated.
The fact is that thin steel sheets from which the body is manufactured is subject to constant alternate loads, especially in places of compounds, where mechanical stresses are maximal. And since the upper layer of varnish to avoid abrasion and formation of scratches should have a high hardness, it is sooner or later microcracks are formed, which, gradually developing deep into the metal, reach the metal surface.
Further case is for small: water under high capillary pressure penetrates the metal and on, it would seem, without a disturbed enamel layer, there is no ugly red-shaped layer ... And if such places are divided, foci of rust is found in size up to several centimeters.
It is completely different things when used on the naked metal of anti-corrosion soil. Now the development of the crack will be stopped at its border, because in the soil the cracks are not formed - by virtue of its very small application thickness (about 10 microns).
But an attempt to apply anti-corrosion soil with a thick layer, on the contrary, will reduce its strength and adhesive properties. This is just one of those cases when porridge can be thoroughly spoiled by oil. Therefore, only one thin layer, grinding which is also not worth it.
Acidic
The best combination of anti-corrosion and adhesive properties today possess primary soils based on polyvinylButiral (as it sounds!). They can be one-component (1k), but two-component (2K) PVB-soil are used more often (what is single and two-component LMKM, read).
A mixture based on orthophosphoric acid is used as a chemical reaction catalyst for these soils. That is why such soils are also called acidic or acid-containing, as well as reactive (because they enter the chemical response with the surface), brisk primers (from the English - clean), phosphatizing, etc. (lovers of elegant literature should be delighted).
Such primers will quickly dry, have excellent adhesion to any alloys used in the automotive industry (ordinary and galvanized steel, non-ferrous metals, etc.), and perfectly protected from corrosion due to the formation of insoluble phosphates on the surface of the metal (almost like the factory).
The process of adhesion of acid soil with a metal surface occurs quite aggressively, it can be said at the molecular level. Therefore, its use can be especially recommended on metal areas with hard-to-reach corrosion sites. To some extent, the "acid" acts as a rust converter that does not require watering with water.
It is strictly forbidden to put the surfaces treated with acidic soils, since in the process of curing polyester putty, an active chemical reaction occurs that destroys the soil film. At the same time, the opposite operation, when the "acid" is applied to a hardened putty to protect the bare metal around the repair area - it is possible without problems.
By the way, can we do without grass anti-corrosion soils? Sometimes you can, but about it later.
In the meantime, let's talk about the soils imposed immediately after the anti-corrosion.
Secondary soils (Fillers)
Secondary soil is the same filler, he is a poroid, he is an alignment. From the very name, the ability of these soils is obvious to fill small irregularities on the surface of the repaired elements.
The level of alignment is more relevant precisely for the car service than for the plant - in factory, it goes smooth metal, here and in a terrible dream, such thickness of the soil, which is necessary for equalizing the irregularities on the surfaces covered with putty, will not be dismissed. Therefore, in the auto repair shop, where mainly it is necessary to deal with swipe parts, the secondary soil and becomes in full meaning of the alignment: it must hide all the pores and crater present on the putty, the risks left by the abrasive treatment, the location of coating transitions from one to another and T ..
In this case, the filler also performs the role of an insulator of a non-uniform resected surface from aggressive solvents, which are part of the coating enamels, and also provides high adhesion both with a renovated surface and with paint. Each system of repair LKM has the main acrylic two-component (2k) primer, decisive all these tasks.
And even after the priming on the surface and some shortcomings remain, but, firstly, they are not so clearly expressed, as in paint (due to the high density of the soil-equalizer) and, secondly, it is grouped before painting. The large thickness of the soil-equalizers allows them to produce their grinding to a depth of 30-40 microns, which makes it possible to significantly improve the flatness of the repaired element. The surface is flat, uniform and with the desired roughness - beauty!
Grindable and unlimited
All secondary primers can be divided into two types:
- traditional grinding - intended for finishing alignment of sheplicated areas with subsequent grinding;
- unfurred - intended for work "wet wet" when the entire part is ground from the edge to the edge and almost immediately, without grinding, decorative coating is applied.
The second is indispensable when preparing for the color of new elements or already exploited, but not having defects (that is, unrepreted). Allows you to exclude drying and grinding of the soil filler, and, accordingly, to reduce the costs of time and materials for these operations.
The main technological characteristics of the "wet" soil are, firstly, excellent spreadability: they form a very smooth surface suitable for enhancing enamel without prior grinding, and secondly, the minimum exposure before applying paint. In such materials it is usually 15-20 minutes, after which it is possible to apply coating enamel on the primed surface and finally dried it together with the primer.
The soils for the color of the "wet wet" method are usually marked as "Wet On Wet", "W / W", "Non Sanding", etc.
Many secondary primers depending on the proportions of mixing with a diluent can be applied to equal success both in the grindable and in the "wet wet" version.
Tolsti-Layer (High Build)
Standard soil equalizers are applied in 2-3 layers, while providing a total thickness of the coating within 100-150 microns. In most cases, this thickness is quite enough.
For comparison, the maximum depth of the risks left by the abrasive grain of the graduation of the P180 is 8-10 microns.
But there are products on the market, allowing to seek even greater thickness - up to 250-300 (!) Micron for three passages, which is commensurate with liquid putty.
Such thick-layer soils are conveniently used with complex replacement repairs when large areas are restored and damaged parts.
In such cases, the use of "thick" soil makes it possible to completely exclude a liquid putty from the technological chain, and not only with the unconditional improvement of the quality of the resulting surface, but also with a significant reduction in temporary and labor costs: because before painting the item on which a liquid putty is applied, its It is necessary to first dry, put it out to be pinned and superior to the top. And the soils of High Build do not need it.
Colored (tinted) soils
I would not like to bypass the side of such an interesting feature of modern secondary soils as the possibility of tinted. Tining allows, firstly, increase the shelterness of coating enamels and reduce their consumption, secondly, getting shades as close as possible to factory soils, which means the repaired part cannot be distinguished from factory even in the chipsery that appears during the car operation. Such requirements are presented by the owners of serious, expensive cars.
In addition, when using the substrate approximated by a shade to the coating enamel, these chips will not be as noticeable and will not cause significant damage to the appearance of the vehicle (such as using white or yellow soil on a dark car). So the repair of these chips can be postponed to a more convenient time for the owner.
Also, the painted primer can be successfully used to simulate the factory painting of the boost space and the inner cavities. After all, the pursuit of savings has already led to the fact that many manufacturers have ceased not only to cover the rapid space, but also do not apply in paint there, limited to color soil (the so-called Under-Hood coating). This is especially common among Japanese and Korean cars (for example, Nissan - Blue Metallic, and under the hood blue matte "non-metallic"). AvtoVAZ recently also moved to similar technology.
In this case, the soil toned into the desired color eliminates us from the loss of time and excessive consumption of materials, since without it we would have to put the ground-filler first, and then - enamel with a matting additive.
It is carried out by adding both enamels or pigment pastes and mixing the soils of different colors among themselves (naturally, the soils must be one manufacturer).
For example, proportional mixing of soils of white and black color makes it possible to obtain material of any gray shade (on the VALUE SHADE scale), which will help reduce the number of layers of color, and therefore reduce its consumption and reduce repair time.
Some manufacturers offer whole color soil systems. One of these is the development of Sikkens - ColorBuild colored primer system, including soils of six colors (red, blue, yellow, green, black and white). Mixing these soils can be obtained by a substrate 46s and different colors without the addition of expensive caloring components of coating enamels.
In the canopy
Another interesting material is a single-component primer, which is produced in aerosol cans. He deserved a special sympathy of masters when used in the case when the detail on several points was ready for painting at several points struck the ground. In this case, the aerosol primer allows you to save a lot of time that would have to spend on breeding the soil, his refueling to the paint and washing after work. After that, the apparent soil must also be dried.
With the help of the soil in the cannter, this work can be performed per minute, then in 5-10 minutes, the soil dries, then light stubbing - and defect as it did not happen.
Epoxy soils
Continuing the conversation about the soils, we, as promised above, will answer the question - is it possible to do in a paint business without grass soils?
It turns out that it is possible if the primary use of epoxy resins is used as primary. Epoxy soil can also be attributed to the category of anti-corrosion materials. Only in contrast to acid-containing soils that protect the metal through a chemical reaction, epoxid soil performs physical protection: due to its rigid and rather thick film, it reliably covers moisture and oxygen access to the metal.
So, their protective functions two of these soil are performed alone in different ways, but it is equally well. What is the advantages of epoxy soil in front of the acids? When and why apply it?
As is known, the usual anti-corrosion soil can be applied only on top of the putty, but not for it. But in this case, it turns out that the metal will be protected only around the covered site, and under the putty there will be no additional protection.
And then enough in the metal presence of microcracks, like water due to capillary effects, seeks to get under a layer of putty on the inside. And since the putty is a hygroscopic, then absorb this moisture, it begins to swell, and the fresh-colored machine will in a short time literally blooms with ugly bubbles, the size of which can exceed the diameter of the five-tone coin. So painted so painted!
How to protect the putty from moisture falling from the inside? Here and comes to the aid of epoxy soil: first, a layer of epoxy soil is applied to the metal, and putty work is carried out on it.
Epoxy primer - the only anti-corrosion material that makes applying under polyester putty - now no bubbles! Such a technology is used in the painting systems of the highest quality and allows you to bring the warranty on painted elements up to seven or more years!
Epoxy soils have not only excellent adhesion to a wide variety of surfaces (galvanized, galvanized steel, aluminum and all its alloys, stainless steel, fiberglass), they are also a good substrate for coating enamels (due to their good filling properties and good spreading). Therefore, you can cover the wrappers still by a pair of layers of epoxy - and after grinding the part is ready to paint. Note that this is not the only possible option in this case, read the others in the priming article.
Liquid putty is also recommended to apply it precisely on epoxy soil and overpower it with another layer of epoxy soil - like a sandwich. Also, this primer works well on fiberglass, and also - as an insulator of old problem coatings.
And if you handle these grounds and ends ends - you can forget about chips and dyeing in these places, as well as their premature corrosion. After all, it is exactly the ends of the doors often rust faster than the rest of the surface. This is because the modern LKMs to increase the decorative properties (decrease in shagreen) have a high surface tension coefficient, which leads to the stretching of the paint at the edges and the ends of the elements with a corresponding decrease in its thickness.
It is impractical to the use of two different anti-corrosion soils during the repair process on one element. At the same time, most manufacturers categorically prohibit apply epoxy soil over acid.
Nevertheless, these soils and some flaws caused by their properties themselves - increased strength and shock viscosity. Because of this, epoxy primers are processed with great difficulty than ordinary fillers. Also, epoxy soil can sometimes cause protrusion when repairing the spot - again, by virtue of its increased rigidity.
Yes, and the maximum thickness of their application is significantly lower than that of acrylic soils, which requires very high quality surface treatment of parts, achievable far from each "Puff". Therefore, the best epoxy soil manifests itself when using it as primary, followed by applying the soil filler.
Soil-insulators of incompatible coatings (Siller)
With restorative repair, in most cases, we have to deal with already painted parts, including those previously visited repair, perhaps more than once. And there is a question about the compatibility of old and new coatings, since the origin of the materials of the old repair coverage is unknown to us. And although nitroemalums have been collected for a hundred years, as, however, and cheap repair "CADOLINES", in the auto repair practice there can still be covers that in their properties relate to thermoplastic materials (soften when heated or contact with solvents).
For insulation of such coatings and there are so-called soil-insulators or silers (from English. Seal - seal, isolate). They will help reinforce and avoid problems associated with the conflict of old and new coatings (swelling, loss of adhesion, contouring).
To check the coating on thermoplasticity before starting work with the details "former in use", it is enough to carry out one simple test. Take a rag impregnated with solvent and leave it on the old coating or in the area of \u200b\u200bpaint damage. If after a couple of minutes, the coating softened (the nail leaves traces on it), then it should be removed or isolate.
In many systems, the properties of insulators have soils that are intended for coloring by the "wet wet" method. Some of them are transparent and can be tinted, can be used both as substrates directly under enamel and followed by applying the filler.
As already mentioned, an excellent insulator of old coatings is also epoxy soil.
Adhesive soils for plastic
Conducting parallels with anti-corrosion soils, for metal and creating strong adhesion links with it, in the case of coloring plastic parts, special adhesive primers are used for these purposes.
Such a soil is, as a rule, a very liquid transparent substance with small supplements of "silver" (to control the application). The thickness of the layer is minimal - just a few microns. These are mainly ready-made single-component materials.
As a rule, such soils are universal and applicable if not to all, then most types of plastic used in the automotive industry. You can clarify this in the instructions for the product, and find out the type of plastic from which the item is made, you can marking on its inner side.
Most often it is plastic polypropylene group, first letters always designating as PP. For example:\u003e PP / EPDMC<, >PP / PD.< и т.п. Можно с уверенностью утверждать, что около 80% всех пластиковых деталей автомобиля (бампера, капоты, крылья, детали салона) выполнены из пластмассы этого типа. Использование праймера по пластику на таких деталях носит обязательный характер.
New original plastic parts can be already primed. Such details do not need re-priming.
The spectrum of all soils is of course not limited to the specified materials. To consider all their types and subspecies within the framework of the article - the task is probably unreal. But it was said enough to understand how flexible and universal system of modern repair primers - with their help, you can solve any task that stands before the malarious.
Many novice pastors are interested in: what is needed for successful detail tightness. Since newcomers, as a rule, take a small amount of vinyl to cover one detail, we recommend buying primer 94 3m 10 ml.
Why do you need a 3M primer?
The primer is necessary for reliable fixation of the edges of the film. The fact is that the vinyl is used to be tightened back. First of all, the edges can open. So that the work does not go scamp must use the adhesion amplifier Prica 3m. This liquid enhances the adhesion of the film to the body parts. Since the autowinyl has its own adhesive layer, the primer is missing only the edges and "complex" places with deep transitions.
Car primer 3M 94 with a capacity of 10 ml.
The capacity of the vial 3m 94 is 10 ml. This is quite enough to wake the roof or hood. On the cap there is a brush for convenient application on the edges of the film. The bottle itself is transparent, so it is easy to control the flow of liquid. For masters who decided to cover a few details or all the car, we recommend paying attention to the primer 100 ml, since it is more economical.
On which surfaces you can apply 3M 94 primer?
The adhesion amplifier primer 3M 94 is universal, so it can be applied to almost any hard surfaces. For example, this composition is used for better clutch with plastic, which occurs inside the cabin. The primer will help better consolidate the material on the tree and metal. The most wide adhesion amplifier is used in the pasting of machines, that is, it is applied to the paintwork surface around the perimeter of the part.
In what places the body is used primer 94?
Prime 94 is used in strictly defined bodies. This fluid is designed to help the adhesive layer of the film, and not as its replacement.
Fixation of edges of film primer.
The main task of the primer is not to give vinyl to start shrinking. If the adhesive in the film is strong enough, then they make a big converor, which prevents the material from tightening. However, it is sometimes difficult or impossible to wrap the edges of the vinyl on the opposite side of the part. In this case, the edges of the film are wicked by primer at the final stage of pasting. In addition, this fluid provides additional tightness: water and dust will not fall under the bushinyl, which increases the reliability of the new coating.
Adhesive amplifier in body deepening.
In addition to fixing the perimeter of the covered element, primer 94 is required when working with details having sharp, deep transitions. Such a complex geometry of the body is found everywhere: on the roof, doors, hood. If you do not use the adhesion amplifier, the film in these places will be closed and the appearance of the car is irrevocably deterrent. That is why it is so important to apply a primer in the deepening of the body.
We especially recommend fixing the film using a primer when tight bumper. This item is very low in relation to the road. The bumper is constantly exposed to water, reagents, dirt and dust. The adhesive amplifier will significantly extend the life of the past bumper.
