Installation of a fence from a chain-link mesh. Chain-link fence: types for different soils and purposes, how to make and install

A chain-link is a good option for arranging a fence, and in a short time and without using any special tools. The end result will not disappoint the owner of the site, since such a fence is simple, practical and reliable enough. In specialized stores, the net is offered to consumers in rolls, which are easy to deliver to the work site.

How to make and where is it in demand?

Undoubtedly, before any summer resident and owner of a private courtyard, the question arose: how to make a fence from a chain-link with your own hands? This material is in demand in every subsidiary farm.

Such fences are most appropriate to arrange in summer cottages; ponds, poultry houses, livestock pens and other small areas that require fencing can be fenced with a net.

Tip: In order to extend the life of the mesh, try to purchase a galvanized version of it.

Types of fence from the chain-link

A fence made of such a mesh can be of 2 types:

Tension;
Sectional.

Tension fence

The device of the first option does not present any difficulty, since complex tools are not needed here or welding is not required, the possibility of using wooden supports (pipes) is not excluded.

It is enough to dig pipes into the ground, and what they will be, round or square, does not matter in principle.

Sectional fencing

In this case, the situation is different, since it is supposed to install the mesh in metal frames, after which the sectional installation of the fence is carried out.

If you need to build a fence in a short time, then use the first option.

Installation of a pull fence

Let's start by telling you what actions you need to take to build a tension fence from a chain-link mesh.

Materials for work

At the initial stage, you should decide on the amount of material that will be required to carry out the work;
It is necessary to measure the perimeter of the fenced area, and for this purpose, you should install four corner posts and pass a cord along them, the length of which will allow you to obtain the necessary data.

Knowing the required amount of mesh, it is easier to calculate how to correctly make a fence from a chain-link mesh, how many support posts and other auxiliary materials are needed, such as:

Poles made of wood or metal;
Fastening materials (rope, strong wire);
The netting itself is a chain-link.

On the construction market, such a mesh is presented in several varieties.

It is distinguished by its shape of the cells and their size. But, if the first parameter does not play a special role, then in the second case the large size of the cells will not work, for example, in the case when the yard where the poultry is kept is fenced off. Since chicks will be able to crawl through such meshes.

The height of the future fence from the chain-link mesh is equal to the width of the roll.

Install the columns

As already mentioned, the posts can be wooden or metal, the second material is more durable in use due to its high strength.

But wooden posts are also a good material, because the netting does not differ in windage, only one end of the wooden post (which will be dug into the ground) needs to be pre-treated with special mastic with waterproofing properties.

A short instruction will allow you to describe all the steps:

To make recesses for installing posts, it is optimal to use a special drill, which can be either mechanical or gasoline.
The height of the post depends on the width of the netting roll, the chain-link, that is, if this parameter is 2m, then the post must be at least 2.95m.
The pillars should be installed at a distance of no more than 2.5 m, with a depth of their digging into the ground from 70 cm to 1 m, so that the submerged part is 10-15 cm below the level of its freezing.
As soon as the pits are prepared, their bottom should be covered with small stones and rubble to prevent the pillars from sinking.

Advice: If we are talking about metal pillars, then it is also permissible to carry out concreting. For these purposes, you can prepare a concrete mixture yourself. The standard version requires the combination of ingredients such as cement, sand, crushed stone, taken in a ratio of 1: 3: 5, or use a ready-made brand of mixture No. 150.

If concreting is carried out, then it takes time for the mixture to dry - it takes 2-3 days.

Installation of mesh netting

After the pillars have taken their place, you can safely proceed with the installation of the chain-link mesh.

If it is supposed to be fastened to wooden posts, then in this case nails or special staples are used.

And the mesh is attached to the metal pillars with hooks, wire and welding.

It is necessary to pull the chain-link in such a way that it does not sag later, that is, as tight as possible.

All the details, if desired, can be viewed on the video.

Tip: Start tensioning the mesh from any corner post, and to prevent sagging, you can pass strong wire or reinforcement through the top mesh and secure it over the posts.

Sectional fence

In this case, almost the same materials are required as for the first option. It is necessary to add corners for the manufacture of fence sections and equipment such as a welding machine. In this regard, both the complexity of the installation work and the total cost of the fence increase.

Manufacturing technology

A frame is welded from a steel corner;
Inside the frame, the mesh is stretched and fixed;
The prepared sections are attached to metal posts, since there is no question of wooden options here, which requires welding.

According to its parameters, it is more durable, reliable and durable in comparison with tension.

In order to exclude the possibility of water and excessive moisture getting inside the columns, it is recommended to close them from above with special plugs. This can be done using self-made elements, or using industrial designs that, in addition to protection, also play a decorative role.

If a chain-link with an anti-corrosion coating is chosen for the fence, then its service life can reach 20 years. An ordinary mesh without a protective coating can become unusable after five years, but this is one of the ways to save money if you need to make a temporary fence.

Conclusion

The netting chain-link as a fence allows you to quickly and reliably enclose a site with a minimum cost of money and time. The price of such a fence is low, it protects the site well from intrusion, perfectly transmits light without restricting the view, and is great for fencing adjacent borders between neighbors.

Mesh is widely used for fencing summer cottages. Anyone can install a fence from a chain-link mesh, having a minimum of tools at hand. Subject to the installation technology and the choice of quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the mesh, as well as study the instructions in detail in order to avoid mistakes.

The mesh is made of black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link is different. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the service life of a non-galvanized chain-link using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before installing it, and then periodically renew the protective layer.

The galvanized wire mesh is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but it does not need a protective treatment at all. from a galvanized chain-link they look neat and attractive.

The plasticized chain-link is becoming more and more popular. This metal mesh is covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosive polymer, due to which it has increased resistance to weathering. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such a chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.

In addition to quality, the netting is distinguished by the size of the cells, the thickness of the wire and the height of the roll. Cells can have dimensions from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The roll height is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. The standard length of the mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the mesh, the more expensive the mesh cost, because this increases the material consumption ...

Chain-link mesh view	Wire diameter, mm	Mesh width, mm	Live section of the mesh,%	Estimated weight of 1m2 mesh, kg
	1,20	1000	55,0	4,52
braided mesh with rhombic mesh	1,20	1000	61,0	33,73
braided mesh with rhombic mesh	1,20	1000	69,8	2,78
braided mesh with rhombic mesh	1,40	1000	65,5	3,8
	1,20	1000,1500	75,3 (78,9)	2,20 (1,94)
braided mesh with a rhombic or square mesh	1,40	1000,1500	71,5 (76,2)	3,00 (2,57)
braided mesh with a rhombic or square mesh	1,40	1000,1500	76,3 (77,0)	3,24 (2,74)
braided mesh with a rhombic or square mesh	1,60	1000,1500	73,3 (77,0)	3,24 (2,74)
braided mesh with a rhombic or square mesh	1,80	1000,1500	76,0 (78,9)	3,25 (2,75)
braided mesh with a rhombic or square mesh	1,60	1000,1500	77,5 (80,9)	2,57 (2,17)
	1,4	1000-2000	83,6	1,77
wicker mesh for fencing	1,4	1000-2000	87,0	1,33
wicker mesh for fencing	1,6	1000-2000	85,7	1,74
wicker mesh for fencing	1,6	1000-2000	88,0	1,39
wicker mesh for fencing	1,8	1000-2000	87,0	1,76
wicker mesh for fencing	1,8	1000-2000	89	1,46
wicker mesh for fencing	2,0	1000-2000	87,9	1,81
wicker mesh for fencing	1,8	1000-2000	91	1,1
wicker mesh for fencing	2,0	1000-2000	90,7	1,36
wicker mesh for fencing	2,0	1000-2000	91,7	1,23
wicker mesh for fencing	2,5	1000-2000	90,7	1,70
wicker mesh for fencing	3,0	1000-2000	89	2,44
wicker mesh for fencing	2,5	1000-2000	92	1,41
wicker mesh for fencing	3,0	1000-2000	92	1,74
wicker mesh for fencing	2,5	1000-2000	94	1,10
wicker mesh for fencing	3,0	1000-2000	93	1,53

Prices for mesh netting

Rabitz

Types of mesh fences

Fencing made of a chain-link mesh can be sectional and tensioned. The first option provides for the manufacture of rectangular metal sections, inside which the mesh is fixed. For sections, metal corners, profile and round pipes of small diameter are used. Connect them by welding or bolting, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, the metal frame prevents the mesh from sagging.

Installing a stretch fence is faster and easier; its structure consists only of support pillars and the net itself. The mesh is fastened with steel wire, clamps or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete posts, wooden beams are suitable for pillars.

Installation of fence posts

For both sectional and tension fence, marking, preparation and installation of pillars is carried out using the same technology, but only in the first case, the pillars must be stronger. This is due to the additional stress from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence is bound to tilt.

To work you will need:

roulette;
wooden pegs;
a coil of thin rope;
building level;
hand drill;
crushed stone and sand;
solution;
shaped pipes 60x40 mm;
Bulgarian;
primer.

Step 1. Installing corner posts

The allotted area is cleared of vegetation, if necessary, leveled, the location of the extreme pillars is determined. Experienced builders recommend making corner posts from pipes of a larger cross section than intermediate ones, and digging them in deeper. For example, if a 40x40 mm profile pipe is taken for intermediate supports, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.

Proceeding to the installation of pillars:

When the solution hardens a little, you can remove the spacers and start marking under the intermediate posts.

Step 2. Markup

A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span width for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the mesh will sag. They retreat from the extreme pillar to the desired distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on to the opposite corner. All pegs should be in contact with the taut rope and be equidistant from each other.

Video - A new way to install support pillars

Step 3. Installation of intermediate supports

In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is covered with sand. To make it easier to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertical, sprinkled with rubble and soil and tamped tightly with crowbar. Concrete is poured on top and the surface is leveled.

If it is planned to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is dense enough, the intermediate supports can simply be driven into the ground and not concreted. For this, holes are drilled half the required depth, pipes are inserted there and hammered with a sledgehammer. To protect the upper edge of the posts from deformation, take a piece of a larger pipe, weld a steel plate on one side and put it on top of the post. After driving the supports, the pits are covered with crushed stone and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and thoroughly rammed.

Step 4. Welding hooks

After about a week, when the concrete has hardened enough, you can continue with the installation. You can fasten the net to the posts with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to attach it to hooks. There are profile pipes with hooks already welded on sale, but if you have a welding machine, it is cheaper to make them yourself. For this, pieces of a steel bar, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - everything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.

Video - Do-it-yourself fence from a chain-link

Step 1. Attaching the mesh

A roll of chain-link is placed near the corner post, unwound a little and put the cells on the hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After that, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when pulling the roll, the net will not bend. Having secured the end of the net, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.

Having departed from the junction of the chain-link with the pipe 10-15 cm, a steel rod is again threaded into the cells. This time, you don't need to weld it on, it just helps to pull the mesh evenly. When the mesh is put on the hooks, the rod is taken out, the roll is unwound for one more span, reinforcement is inserted again and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two canvases, wire from the extreme vertical row of one of the rolls is used.

Step 2. Fixing the web from sagging

Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, therefore, at the installation stage, you need to take care of additional fixing of the chain-link between the posts. You will need a wire with a cross section of 6 mm and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. In the places where the mesh adheres to the posts, the wire is welded. Then, in the same way, the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened, and at the end, the hooks are folded. Now the fence is securely fixed on the supports and will not bend and sag.

Step 3. The final stage

When the fence is installed, you need to complete the finishing touches:

put plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
paint the posts;
twist the upper antennae of the chain-link in pairs by 2 turns and bend down.

At this, the installation of the tension fence is considered complete.

Video - Connecting the chain-link in one roll

Sectional fence installation

Making sections

Step 2. Prepare the racks

Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. Take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the post at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, stepping back from the edge 15-20 cm. The plates are fixed on the remaining supports in the same way.

Step 3. Installation of sections

The first section is placed between the posts, lifted and set in level. Then the sides are welded to the plates and go to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that the top crossbars of the frame form a single line. After installing all the sections, the welding points are cleaned, the fence frame is primed and painted.

Read step-by-step instructions on how to do it in our new article.

Video - How to make a fence from a chain-link mesh

Owners of country houses, summer cottages, as well as residents of the private sector in cities often face the problem of installing a fence. A high-quality fence on a concrete foundation requires a significant investment of effort and financial resources. This can be justified if you have a large area outside the city, where you want to reliably protect yourself not only from neighbors and passing vehicles, but also from stray animals. Small plots within the city or in a summer cottage village are most often fenced off with a netting, which does not shade green spaces, and its installation takes a little time even without the involvement of professionals.

What is needed

To install the fence took as little time as possible, you need to prepare in advance and calculate the amount of material and tools required.

To install a fence from a chain-link mesh, you will need:

Mesh chain-link in a calculated quantity with a small margin.

Pillars.

Wire for fastening the chain-link to the posts.

Fasteners (plates, brackets, clamps, nuts, bolts) - depending on the selected installation method.

Hammer.

Pliers.

Bulgarian.

Welding machine.

Materials for the preparation of concrete (if necessary, concreting of pillars).

To determine the required number of chain-link, pillars and other fasteners, the first step is to measure the perimeter of the enclosed area. The simplest and most reliable way of measuring is along a stretched cord.

To do this, you need to drive the pegs in the corners of the area that will be fenced off, and pull on a strong thread, fishing line or wire, the length of which is subsequently measured. The measurement result will be equal to the required number of running meters of the grid.

However, it is imperative to add a couple of meters of headroom. Fence posts are installed on average at a distance of two and a half meters from each other, but not closer than two meters.

Knowing the size of the perimeter of the enclosed area, it is easy to calculate the required number of supports and, accordingly, the approximate number of fasteners, which, however, varies depending on the selected type of fence structure.

Types of structures

The main types of fence structures from the chain-link:

Tension fence without guides... The easiest to install and affordable option. To install such a fence, it is enough to dig in the posts and cover them with a net, attaching them to the supports with wire. For such a fence, pillars of any shape from any material are suitable. This design is perfect for a temporary fence or fences inside the site.

Tension fence with guides... This type differs from the previous one by the presence of two longitudinal guides, which can be either wooden (timber) or metal (pipe). This design looks more solid and keeps its shape better, however, it is not recommended to install a fence with metal guides on heaving soils due to possible ruptures when the ground moves.

Sectional fence... This type of fence is a series of metal frame sections welded to the posts, into which a chain-link is mounted. Mesh frames are made by welding from a metal corner. The installation of the mesh is also carried out by welding. Such a fence is the most stable, outwardly more presentable, but also more expensive option.

Net

Today, the chain-link mesh is produced in several types:

Non-galvanized... The cheapest and most short-lived. Such a mesh requires mandatory painting, since after a short time after installation it will surely begin to rust. Service life unpainted - no more than three years. Suitable for temporary barriers. For more solid structures, it has practically not been used recently.

Galvanized... Does not corrode, durable, easy to install, does not much exceed the cost of a non-galvanized chain-link, is ubiquitous and firmly holds the lead among other types in terms of sales.

Plasticized... This type of chain-link appeared relatively recently and is a wire mesh with a special protective coating. Combines all the positive qualities of galvanized mesh with greater aesthetics. Very durable, but also more expensive.

Plastic... This mesh is made entirely of plastic and is available in different colors with different mesh shapes. It can be used for boundary fences between neighbors or for fences within the site. As a fence from the street, plastic mesh will not work due to its insufficient strength.

Important! When choosing a plasticized chain-link, you should familiarize yourself with the quality certificate of the goods for sale, since a poor-quality coating may not withstand weather tests, as a result of which it will crack and rust.

Another criterion for distinguishing between types of chain-link is the size of the cells. Basically, the mesh size ranges from 25 mm to 60 mm. However, there are also grids with a mesh size of up to 100 mm.

The most suitable size for an external fence is considered to be 40-50 mm, but it is better to protect the poultry yard with a net with smaller cells, through which even the smallest chicks cannot crawl.

Having decided on the type of chain-link and choosing an option that is suitable for all parameters, it is imperative to carefully examine the roll for damage and deformation.

Even slight curvature or curvature in the wire when installing the fence can result in a serious problem.

The edges of the chain-link must be bent. Moreover, the "tails" of the wire should not be shorter than half the length of the cell.

Did you know? The grid was invented and patented at the end of the 19th century by the bricklayer Karl Rabitz, and at first it was used for plastering walls.

Pillars

The basis for the fence from the chain-link is the pillars, which, depending on the type of structure and the soil under it, are either simply dug into the ground or concreted.

The following types of supports can be used for the installation of a chain-link fence:

Wooden... Since wood is a short-lived material, such supports are only suitable for temporary fence. Their undoubted advantage is their low cost. Before installation, the wooden poles must be leveled in height and the underground part must be treated with water-proof mastic. The above-ground part of the support must be painted in order to extend its service life. The desired size of the wooden post is 100x100 mm.

Metallic... The most optimal type of support for chain-link fencing. They are characterized by strength, reliability and durability and most often represent a hollow profile of a round (from 60 mm in diameter) or square section (recommended size 25x40 mm). The recommended metal thickness is at least 2 mm. The processing of such pillars consists of priming and painting. Any fasteners are easily welded to them. You can also buy ready-made poles with hooks to secure the mesh.

Concrete... Such supports can be made independently or purchased ready-made, especially since they are relatively inexpensive. The disadvantages of this type of supports include the inconvenience of their installation due to the severity and complexity of attaching the mesh.

Step by step installation

The installation of a chain-link fence is carried out in several stages.

Territory marking

To mark the territory for the future fence, it is necessary to drive in the pegs in the corners of the fenced area and pull the construction thread. At this stage, the required materials are also counted.

Then it should be noted the places for the installation of the supports, which will stand at a distance of 2-2.5 m from each other when installing the tension fence. When installing a fence with sills or a sectional fence, the step between the posts can be up to 3 m.

Installation of pillars

The installation of the supports should start from the corner ones, which are recommended to be dug in deeper, since they will bear the main load of the entire structure. To install the pillar (we take metal as a basis), it is necessary to dig or drill a hole in the previously marked place.

The depth of the pit should be 15-20 cm more than the depth of freezing of the soil. On clay and loamy soils, it is recommended to increase the depth of the hole by another 10 cm. At the bottom of the hole, 10-15 cm of gravel must be poured to drain water, and another layer of sand on top.

Then a post is installed in the pit, pre-treated with an anti-corrosion compound. If the structure of the fence is light, and even more so temporary, the supports can be installed without concreting.

In this case, after placing the pillar in the pit, the free space is filled with alternating layers of stone and soil, each of which is carefully compacted. In the case of installing a sectional fence or stretch fence with guides that will increase the load on the supports, it is better to concrete the pillars.
For this, a cement mortar is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 2, into which, after mixing, two more parts of crushed stone are added. When all the free-flowing parts are added and mixed, water is poured.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the solution does not turn out to be too liquid. The finished solution is poured into a hole around the pipe. The concrete must be compacted and compacted with a bayonet shovel and left to harden, which usually takes up to seven days.

After installing the corner posts, the rest are installed in the same way.

Important! It is necessary to control the verticality of the support installation using a construction plumb line. To make it easier to adjust the height of the posts relative to each other, it is recommended to pull the cord at a distance of ten centimeters from the top between the corner supports.

Tensioning the mesh and securing it to the supports

Different types of fasteners are used for different supports. The mesh is fastened to metal pillars using hooks and welding, staples and nails are suitable for wooden pillars, and the chain-link is attached to concrete supports with clamps or wire.
Let us consider in detail the option of pulling the mesh onto a fence with metal posts. It is necessary to start pulling the chain-link from the corner post.

It will be more convenient to do this if a reinforcement is threaded into the mesh cells at a distance slightly greater than to the support, for which two people will pull - one closer to the upper edge, and the second to the lower.

A third person can secure the netting to the support hooks. After that, the mesh can be welded to the post using one or more threaded rods.

In the event that the roll ends between the supports, it is enough to simply connect the two canvases of the chain-link by taking out the extreme spiral-shaped element of one web, then overlap both parts of the net and insert the removed element again.

Important! To reduce the load on the corner supports, it is better not to bend around them with a mesh, but, having disconnected the cells, fix the chain-link with a welding machine and pull it further with a separate cloth.

After tightening the chain-link in the above way, in order to avoid sagging of the upper edge of the mesh, it is recommended to pass thick wire or reinforcement through the extreme cells, which should also be welded to the posts. The same can be done with the bottom edge. Such a fence will turn out to be stronger.

At the end of the installation of the chain-link, it is necessary to bend and weld all the hooks on the supports, as well as paint the pillars to avoid metal corrosion. If you are installing a fence using a non-welding method, then painting the supports can be done even before they are installed.

Installation of a fence with guides is not much different from a simple tension fence. The only difference is that in addition to the mesh, guides are also welded to the supports.

Important! It will not be possible to install a tension fence from a chain-link on a sloping section, since in an inclined position it is very poorly attached. The way out of this situation will be terracing the site or installing a sectional fence.

The procedure for marking the territory and installing supports for a sectional fence is the same as for a conventional stretch fence. Metal plates with a cross section of 5 mm (width - 5 cm, length - 15-30 cm) are welded to the installed pillars at a distance of 20-30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the support.

The sections are formed from rectangular frames welded from metal corners (30x40 mm or 40x50 mm), into which a part of the chain-link of the required size is welded with the help of rods.

The sections are installed between the posts and welded to the plates. After the completion of the installation work, the fence is covered with paint.

This article was created in order to provide information about the features of installing a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands. Here you will find out what the netting is made of, what determines its quality and cost.

We will provide a step-by-step manufacturing technology for conventional and sectional.

Learn how to install supports and what material is best for this purpose.

A chain-link fence is the best option if you need to fence off a site. As they say, cheap and cheerful, and in a short period of time, with minimal effort.

The chain-link mesh is a very flexible material with which you can make rounded sections of the fence. The service life depends on the quality of the material, and ranges from 5 to 30 years, or even more.

Installation of a fence made of a chain-link mesh can be carried out by pulling between supports or sectionally between piles.

The material for the posts can be anything: metal, wood.

Types of mesh-netting

Installation of a fence from a mesh-chain-link by the sectional method looks pretty attractive. At equal intervals and at the desired height, the support pillars are installed.

A stack is attached between them. This method is expensive but more reliable. Suitable for installation on uneven terrain.

Reduce the cost of installing a fence from a chain-link it is possible if you use reinforcement as a frame. There is no need to make separate elements. You can stretch it into the mesh cells at the top and bottom, and weld it to the posts.

The best performance characteristics are possessed by fence posts made of metal mesh-netting. To install them, you just need to treat the metal with a primer and paint the part that will be sunk into the ground.

Any fastener can be welded to metal posts... You can buy such poles at any point of reception of metal products, having decently saved money.

Also, on the metal industry market there are already painted support posts with special hooks for the construction of a sectional fence. Their price is higher, but less fuss with them. It is recommended to use a rectangular profile in work, which is particularly durable due to stiffening ribs.

Wooden supports are also popular due to their availability and low cost. But very often, the saying “the miser pays twice” is triggered. Wood tends to be negatively affected by atmospheric precipitation; various insects are very fond of it.

Asbestos cement pipes are also used as fence posts. They are sturdy and not very expensive. The cost ranges from 400 rubles per 1 m.

Pillars for a fence made of a chain-link brick made of bricks are rarely used as supports. These two materials look very awkward together. The monumentality of the brick and the lightness of the grid are not a very attractive combination.

To install brick supports you need to fill in a solid foundation. But, after all, as you know, the netting is used primarily because of its cheapness, and brick pillars only contribute to an increase in the cost of the project.

The same goes for the pillars from. Yes, they are strong and durable, they can last for many decades. But they are also inconvenient to install; pouring under the supports is required.

Do-it-yourself work on installing a fence from a chain-link mesh begins with clearing the territory.

Markup. Pegs are placed at the corners and a string is pulled between them. Then, the locations of the columns are marked, at a distance of 2 - 2.5 m. This prevents the mesh from bending.

You can count the number of posts by dividing the length of the fence section by 2 - 2.5. The total length is divided by the average. Example: side 35: 2 = 17.5 posts, 35: 2.5 = 14. Choose a round number 14.37 m: 14 racks = 2.5 m.

Marks are placed along the line of the stretched cord and recesses are dug, the level of which should be 15 - 20 cm lower than the freezing point of the ground. These are approximate indicators that differ in each individual area.

However, the deepening must be at least one meter. The mass of the mesh-chain-link fence is large, and if the pits are not deep enough, the structure may tilt.

Metal supports hammer with a sledgehammer, after placing a board or plywood. This is done to avoid deformation of the metal. The installation of supports must be carried out in a uniform manner, in order to build one line.

After the concrete base at the posts hardens, you can start stretching the netting. A cord is pulled over the pillars, defining the upper level of the fence. The mesh is installed in such a way that there is no contact with the ground, which will quickly cover the material with rust.

Fastening the chain-link to metal posts produced by welding, to wooden ones with nails every 15 - 20 cm. A mesh is attached to asbestos-cement supports and concrete using wire or plastic clamps.

They begin to fix the mesh from the corner post, since it is not very convenient to bend around it in the future. The net roll is placed in an upright position and secured by any convenient method.

For the convenience of work, you can stretch the rod and fasten it by welding with hooks. This will allow the mesh to be stretched evenly. It is more convenient to work in several hands: one person holds, the second unwinds, the third fixes.

In order to connect the edges of the chain-link together, you need to pull out the wire from one edge.To avoid sagging of the fence from the netting of the chain-link, reinforcement or wire is passed through the cells and fixed on the posts. Straight antennae on the chain-link are bent to avoid injury.

Technology for assembling a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh

The preliminary work is the same as described above. The first step is to install supports from the selected material. To install the mesh, unroll the roll and select the desired piece by pulling out the wire.

To stretch the mesh between the supports:

twigs with a thickness of 4–5 mm are pushed into the extreme holes of the mesh;
welded on one side inside the corner;
put from below and above;
by welding, they connect the reinforcement from the side of the mesh fixing;
the mesh is pulled and fastened inside the frame made of pillars.

Reading time ≈ 5 minutes

Today, with all the variety of fences, few types of structures could replace a do-it-yourself fence made of chain-link mesh.

Advantages of a chain-link fence

Do it yourself very quickly and easily;
Low cost;
Ease of construction, does not require a reinforced foundation;
Transmits light, will not create conflict situations with neighbors due to the created shadow;
Austere and unobtrusive appearance that fits perfectly into any landscape.

Installation methods

A do-it-yourself fence from a chain-link mesh can be installed in two ways:

1. Normal as in the photo above, when the mesh is stretched between two support posts. This method is many times cheaper and easier. It is recommended to use in cases where the goal is not to pursue an impeccable appearance, but you just need to quickly and cheaply install a fence.

2. Sectional, as in the photo above, when ready-made sections of the fence are produced, in which a fragment of the chain-link mesh is fixed. This method will cost a lot more, because you have to acquire metal corners, the price of which is higher than the mesh itself, but at the same time the fence itself will be much more attractive and practical (for example, you can hang a carpet on the top of the fence, dry something, etc.)

Materials (edit)

To install such a fence, we need the following materials:

Metal pillars 50x50x2x3000 mm;
Mesh netting (not galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
Fasteners (nails, galvanized bolts);
M200 concrete.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chain-link fence

So, how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands?

I. Territory markings.

We start by driving in the pegs in the corners of the site and pulling the laces between them. We measure the length of the lace - this is the length of the required netting, you also need to take into account + 5-7% of the additional length "in reserve". Next, we mark the places of the supports, the optimal step is 2.5-3 m.

II. Installation of pillars.

In the event that after the construction of the house there is a sufficient amount of wooden beams or other material that you can use as future support posts of the fence; when the price of "wood" in your region is several times cheaper than a metal profile, or if you just need a temporary fence - then you should use just wooden supports. The surface of a wooden beam should be cleaned of bark, and it is also advisable to treat it with antiseptics and waterproofing mastic, which will protect the material from decay and pests. The pillars should be trimmed based on the desired height of the fence, as well as the depth of the base to be dug in (the hole should be 100-150mm more from the depth of soil freezing, therefore, if you count on a two-meter fence, and the depth of soil freezing is 800 mm, then you should prepare pillars with a height of 3 m). But such supports will not stand for a long time, so it is better to use metal poles!

If you decide to build a solid and durable fence - take care of buying metal poles. The installation of such supports requires concreting of the base. The depth of the pit to be concreted should be 1/3 of the height of the fence. For example, if you have planned to put up a fence with a height of 2 m, the depth of the hole should be at least 1 m (you should also take into account the depth of freezing and heaving of soils).

III. Stretching the netting of the chain-link.

It is most convenient to nail the mesh to the wooden base of the fence.

Do-it-yourself sectional fence from a chain-link mesh

The main difference between this method and the usual one is the presence of a frame.

To install a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh, we need the following materials:

Metal posts 50x50x2x3000 mm;
Galvanized or plasticized mesh netting;
Bent metal corner 40x40x3 mm
Metal rod and strip for welding
M200 concrete

The marking and installation of the posts of the sectional fence from the chain-link is no different from its simpler counterpart, but you will have to sweat with the welding of the frames. If you do not have good welding skills, then it is better to consult a professional.