Decorating the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels - quickly and efficiently. Ceiling made of plastic panels in the kitchen (38 photos) - installation features Combined plastic ceilings for the kitchen

If there is a desire to update the interior in the living room, in the bathroom, hallway or, then you cannot do without the reconstruction of the ceiling. And one of the options could be the installation of a plastic lining on it. Today, the assortment of building stores contains a lot of polymer panels made in various colors or with drawings imitating natural finishing materials - stone or wood of various species. Therefore, this cladding can be selected for any, the most sophisticated interior, made in the style you like.

How independently, so that the final result looks "professional", become an integral part of the design of the entire room? This question arises for everyone who starts repairing residential premises, and you need to try to answer it within the framework of this article.

Characteristics of PVC ceiling panels

Finishing polymer panels, as a rule, consist of two thin plates spaced at a certain distance, between which there are stiffeners that connect the outer and inner sides and at the same time make the material more durable. On the lateral sides of the panels there are elements for connecting individual parts to each other, arranged according to the "tongue-and-groove" principle. They facilitate the installation of panels and securely hold them in any position strictly in the same plane.

  • PVC lining, intended for installation on the ceiling, can have dimensions in length from 2400 to 6000 mm, and the width of the strips varies from 100 to 500 mm, thickness - from 5 to 12 mm.
  • The panels are produced with a wide variety of surfaces - they can be glossy or matte, ideally white or colored, in the form of tiles and strips, with or without a textured pattern.
  • For a high-quality finish, PVC panels are completed with the necessary assortment of fittings, which help to give a finished look to any of the surfaces lined with this material.

- The outer corner covers the joint of the panels at the outer corners. Its design allows you to hide the joints of cut unsightly edges.

- The F-profile is used to decorate the edges of the finishing structure. You cannot do without it, for example, when facing window slopes, or when finishing a ceiling that has several tiers.

- Docking profile is used in cases when the lining changes its direction. For example, panels are first installed on the ceiling along and then across, which helps to divide the surface into different design zones.

- The inner corner is installed at the junction of the ceiling and walls, in the event that it is not planned to install a ceiling plinth in this place.

- The starting profile can be installed in different places of the structure, where it is required to close the edge of the plastic panel.

- Ceiling plinth is mounted along the perimeter of the ceiling before installing the lining panels, giving the design neatness and completeness. To connect the skirting board at the corners, you will need special connecting corners, under which the cut edges of the skirting board are hidden.

  • The material from which the panels are made is environmentally friendly, recognized by the Ministry of Health as safe for the human body.
  • The surface, decorated with plastic panels, is easy to clean, it lends itself to both wet and dry cleaning.
  • The service life of this material, with proper installation and maintenance, can be 10 ÷ 12 years, without losing its original appearance.
  • Ease of installation allows, even in the absence of experience in this work, to carry out the process of installing the material on the desired surface independently, without the involvement of specialists.
  • The price of plastic lining is not too high, so if one or more panels are damaged, they can be replaced with new ones, without damaging the rest of the surface.

Selection criteria for plastic ceiling panels

When buying PVC panels, you need to rely on several selection criteria:

  • Panel size: width, thickness and length.

The length of the water must be said separately - it must be chosen in such a way that as little waste as possible remains. For example, with a room width of 2400 mm, it is worth purchasing a lining with a length of 2500 or 5000 mm.

  • Since the panels can be of different quality, their price also varies significantly. You should not buy cheap finishing materials, as they will last a shorter period of time than high-quality ones. Determining the quality of the panels is not so difficult, paying attention to the following points:

- Appearance: the correct geometry of the panels, the quality of the surface, its evenness and the uniformity of the pattern distribution. Stiffeners installed inside the lining should not appear on its surface.

In high-quality panels, the thickness of the outer walls should be at least 1.5–2 mm, the same applies to the stiffeners - the more stable they are, the longer the material will last. If, when pressed with fingers, the ribs bend, this indicates a low quality of the material, since they should not react to such an impact.


- To the touch, the surface should be uniform and perfectly flat, longitudinal and lateral distortions are unacceptable on it.

- It is also necessary to check the ease of joining the two panels. To do this, you need to connect them and see if a single plane is obtained without gaps, or if the surface has unintended gaps. High-quality panels should be easy to dock, the spike should go completely into the groove, without leaving visible traces of assembly on the surface.


Checking the quality of the material - when bending, the plastic should not break

- Another quality criterion is the bending test of the plastic. To do this, it is necessary to bend and unbend the corner of the protruding mounting strip several times near the panel groove. If after these manipulations there are no traces left on its surface, and it remains intact, it means that the material for the manufacture was of high quality, and the molding technology of the parts was fully observed.

Prices for popular types of plastic ceiling panels

Plastic ceiling panels

Calculation of the required amount of materials

In order to calculate the required number of lining to decorate the ceiling in a particular room, you need to carry out the following calculations:

  • Determine the area of ​​the ceiling and one panel.
  • Then the resulting size of the surface must be divided by the area of ​​the panel - as a result, the number of elements required for installation will be obtained.
  • It is recommended to add 15% to the result obtained, and then this number is rounded up to the nearest whole.
  • To determine the length of the hardware starting profile and the ceiling cornice, two lengths and two widths of the ceiling surface are added, and then 15% of the resulting total perimeter is also added to it.
  • To know how much metal profile or timber is required for installation of the frame, which will be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling and on its surface, you need to carry out the following calculation:

- You can determine the length of the frame elements installed along the perimeter in the same way as when calculating the required number of the starting profile.

- Then the size of the ceiling surface between the walls must be divided into equal lengths from 400 to 600 mm. Lines will later pass through them, along which the middle guides of the crate will be fixed - this will determine the amount of timber (metal profile), and its length will be equal to the width or length of the room, depending on the planned orientation of the finishing material.

If a timber is selected for the frame, its cross-section should be 20 × 50 mm.

In the event that a metal profile is selected for the lathing, you can use the table to calculate the number of parts that may be required for mounting the frame:

Part appearancePart name and size in mmunit of measurementConsumption rate per 1 sq. M
Ceiling profile CD 60/27Running meter3.2
Profile extension 60/110. Used to extend, if necessary, the length of the main profilePCS.0.6
Direct ceiling suspension 60/27PCS.1.3
Single-level connector (crab) 60/27PCS.It can be used to strengthen the frame, for example, when installing additional jumpers or in the places where fixtures are installed. The quantity is calculated locally.
Self-tapping screw TN 25PCS.17
Dowels for fixing frame elements to the ceilingPCS.1.3

In addition, you will need to purchase self-tapping screws with a wide head (press washer), with which the lining will be attached to a metal profile or a wooden beam, at the rate of 1 pc. by 500 mm of the length of the lining panels.

What else needs to be done before starting the installation of the battens?

Even if the unsightly surface of the ceiling is completely lined with plastic panels, this does not mean that it does not need to be tidied up.

It is necessary to carry out certain repair work - and, if necessary, even with the subsequent priming of the surface with antifungal compounds. Recommendations for performing these operations are on the pages of our portal.

Installation of battens under ceiling panels

Ceiling markings

Whatever material for the frame is chosen, the marking before fastening it is done in approximately the same way.

  • The ceiling on opposite sides of the room is marked into equal segments.
  • Then a painted twine is taken, stretched along the length or width of the room, and straight lines are struck on the ceiling along which the frame guides will be attached.

  • Lines are also beaten off along the perimeter of the ceiling, since the bars or profiles will first of all be fixed in these areas. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that if the ceiling drops on suspensions, then the markings for the extreme profiles are made on the walls below the joint line the distance over which it is planned to omit the entire structure.
  • If the lathing is not mounted on the very surface of the ceiling, but in a suspended state, lowered to a certain distance, marks are made on the broken lines, at a distance of 500 ÷ 700 mm from each other, along which the suspensions will be fixed.

Frame installation


There are several ways to attach the frame:

1. Installation of the frame, which it is planned to lower it to a certain distance, it starts with fixing the suspensions at the marked points of the broken lines. To do this, holes are drilled through a plumb line using a drill in the ceiling, into which two or three dowels are driven. Thus, the fixation of the suspensions takes place on the entire surface of the ceiling.


  • Further, on the walls, a metal profile is fixed along the outlined lines. Through it, holes are also drilled in the wall with a step of 300 ÷ 350 mm, and dowels are driven into them.

  • After that, a metal profile is installed into the suspensions at the required height, and is fixed on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal.

  • The ends of the hanging profile are installed in the guide profile on the walls and are also fixed with two self-tapping screws.

  • If desired, instead of a suspended metal profile 60 × 27, you can use wooden beams.
  • After that, in the places where the lamps will be fixed, the profile or slats are reinforced with jumpers.

They can be secured using "crabs", or by cutting the profiles at the corners and bending them at right angles.

2. Another option for securing a wooden frame is to install the timber directly on the ceiling or on pads, which are used instead of suspensions.


  • The edges of wooden beams on the walls are also installed and fixed in metal guide profiles or also on a beam installed on the wall and fixed with metal corners.

  • The timber is nailed to the ceiling with dowels through holes drilled through it. In this case, you need to purchase dowels of such a length that they enter the ceiling by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
  • If wooden linings of the required thickness are installed between the ceiling and the wooden frame, then they are attached to the ceiling, and a bar is screwed onto them using self-tapping screws.

After the installation of the frame is completed, electrical wiring is pulled between its elements to install lighting devices.


For safety reasons, it is recommended to pull the electrical wires through a special insulating wire, which can be fixed to the hangers or side parts of the metal profile. When installing the wiring, the cables must not be powered by electricity. The connection is carried out only after the completion of all work on securing the lining and installing lamps.

Installation of plastic panels


Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way, what on a frame made of a metal profile, what on made of wooden beams. It is worth noting that screwing screws into wood is easier than into metal elements, but, on the other hand, a frame made of a galvanized profile is in total much lighter in weight.

So, the installation of plastic panels takes place in the following sequence:

  • Along the perimeter of the ceiling, a starting U-shaped bar is screwed onto a metal profile or wooden beam.

  • Instead, a rail can be fixed for the installation of a ceiling plinth, if you plan to install it.

  • Further, the ceiling plinth itself is installed in the strip, which, together with the strip, forms a gap for installing plastic panels in it.
  • To make it very clear how these two parts are mounted, you need to carefully consider the following photo.

  • Further, in the U-shaped profile or in the gap formed by the ceiling plinth and the strip, the first sheathing panel is installed.

  • The lining panel is leveled and screwed to each bar or frame profile with a self-tapping screw with a wide head.

  • The next panel is inserted with its spike into the groove of the previous one, thereby hiding the head of the self-tapping screw. It is necessary to ensure full entry of the mating elements along the entire length of the panel, so that there are no gaps or distortions. The inserted panel is fixed in the same way - using self-tapping screws.
  • In the future, these operations are repeated with each successive panel.

  • On the panels of the lining, which fall into the place where it should be installed, holes are cut out before installation, and a cable is passed through them immediately, during installation.
  • The installation of the last cladding element is difficult, since this process must be carried out very carefully. The main catch here is that the panel fits into the groove of the previous one and into the opening of the starting profile or ceiling plinth. This is difficult to do, so it will be easier to attach the panel to the wall with self-tapping screws through and through, and then the heads will be hidden by the ceiling plinth.

  • The last stage is closed at the joints with a special corner, which closes the sections of this decorative and functional element.
  • After completing the installation of the casing, spotlights are connected to the electrical cables.

Switching the electrical wiring of the lamps ...
  • Then the cable is tucked under the installed panel, and the luminaire is inserted into the hole, fixing itself on special metal "ears" - spacers.

... and fitting the luminaires into their designated receptacles.

Craftsmen who are professionally engaged in the installation of ceiling cladding from any type of lining recommend that during the installation of panels constantly monitor the evenness of its rows, since the bevel of one of them will entail a decrease in the assembly quality of the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: step by step Video instruction for installation of ceiling panels

To make such a ceiling update, using the recommendations and choosing the right materials, every homeowner can do it. Therefore, if such a desire arises, you need to boldly take up the work and carry it out slowly, carefully performing each technological operation.

You can try other options for finishing the ceiling.

So, many people like it. True, here, most likely, you will have to face the need for careful and for its decoration.

Fashion for modern ceilings allows designers to show the most daring ideas. Very beautiful ceilings can be made without serious costs of material and money. The ceiling in the kitchen made of plastic panels is available to everyone, and it is not necessary to invite specialists to install PVC. You can do a beautiful ceiling decoration on your own, the main thing is to prepare well and have a reliable plan of action.

The advantages of plastic

An aesthetic ceiling can be beautiful enough to be considered the most modern kitchen ceiling design solution. Ceiling material can be very practical to maintain - and installation costs can be kept to a minimum.

What are the benefits of installing ceiling panels in their kitchens?

  1. PVC plastic panels can be of various shapes and sizes. The dimensions and the number of sections per panel allow you to choose from a wide range of exactly those panels that can decorate your kitchen, taking into account the wall decoration and the color scheme of furniture;
  2. The PVC finish is very easy to clean and practical to maintain. Cleaning is very simple, without the use of special cleaning agents. Soot and dirt on the ceiling can be removed very easily, and restrictions in this regard exist only for glossy or mirror surfaces - abrasive substances in this case are prohibited;
  3. High moisture resistance PVC panel can withstand even real flood. The ability to dry independently, without cracking or damage, is a very important factor, and the material does not require third-party intervention. You may need to remove the plastic ceiling only if there is really too much water;
  4. The cladding of a bathroom or balcony can also be carried out with such panels, and it is moisture resistance that plays a decisive role here. And for the kitchen, such characteristics of the material are especially relevant;
  5. Installation of panels helps to hide wires, communications from pipes, and it is very convenient - you do not have to make special recesses in the surface of the ceiling, and the wiring with pipes is kept quite freely;
  6. Ceiling defects can be hidden behind PVC panels. Even serious irregularities in the ceiling do not constitute difficulties for the installation of panels, and the panels themselves, in aesthetic terms, are an excellent way to hide defects and irregularities, without the need for additional plastering or finishing work on the ceiling;
  7. Temperature drops do not affect PVC, the shape of the panels remains stable, as well as its stability, which is very convenient;
  8. Installation of spotlights is carried out without problems - these are the ceilings that are ideally designed for this type of lighting. You can mount them anywhere, but they look very beautiful;
  9. Maintenance work, repair and maintenance of plastic ceilings can be done on their own, which does not cause absolutely any difficulties or problems. The frame is assembled initially, then plastic panels are attached to it. A perfectly flat ceiling surface is not needed;
  10. By including sound-insulating materials in the frame, a high degree of sound insulation can be obtained, and such work is also very simple;
  11. The environmental safety of plastic ceilings is very high. From temperature or moisture, the coating does not create an unpleasant odor and does not decompose. In this way, this ceiling is qualitatively different from a similar type of suspended ceiling;
  12. The price of a PVC panel is very affordable, you can do the installation yourself, all these factors in the configuration can significantly affect the economy of your home budget.

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Material calculation

The very first stage of work when installing a ceiling in a kitchen made of plastic panels is to calculate the number of profiles and consumables. This process must be performed first. Knowing how much of what is required, you can stock up on material in advance, and at the same time not overpay or buy it again in the process.

  • Calculation of the amount of panel masonry. After calculating the area of ​​the kitchen ceiling, the resulting number is divided by the area of ​​one PVC plastic panel. The size of such a panel can be found on its packaging. The ceiling area is obtained by multiplying the length by the width. 10-15% for the stock can significantly simplify the work, eliminating the possibility of a shortage of material for the coating;
  • The number of profiles for installation should also be calculated in advance. It is best to do this by first drawing a ceiling plan in compliance with all sizes and scales. The number of required profile should be equal to the total length of all lines drawn around the perimeter, 50-60 cm from each other and parallel to one of the sides. A stiffer profile should be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and a softer material of the CD category is suitable for the transverse strips;
  • Fasteners must be purchased in advance, the calculation in this case is not very difficult - one dowel is required for 0.5 meters of the profile;
  • Self-tapping screws, which are necessary for fastening the profile. Such self-tapping screws should be on wide caps. 0.5 meters of panel length is equal to one self-tapping screw. Fasteners are bought with a margin in any case, this helps to simplify installation work;
  • The ceiling plinth is the last thing you need to stock up on before starting work. He is always ready to decorate the panel ceiling, and according to the standard its length is from three meters. The length of the perimeter of the suspended ceiling is divided by three, then the amount obtained as a result is increased to a number that is a multiple of three.

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Required tool

What tools will be needed to carry out the work on the cladding of the kitchen ceiling? Preparing the tool is very important - having stocked up in advance with everything you need, the work can be done quickly and in the shortest possible time. Among the component parts, you need to stock up on:

  1. Frame profiles;
  2. PVC baguettes;
  3. L-shaped profiles;
  4. Mounting corners;
  5. Wooden slats or metal profile;
  6. Fasteners made of metal type P, for plasterboard ceilings.

You will need the following tools:

  1. Plastic dowels and screws;
  2. Metal staples and stapler;
  3. Drill and screwdriver;
  4. Pliers and hammer;
  5. Hacksaw or scissors for metal;
  6. Square and knife;
  7. Marker and pencil.

All work will be carried out in the kitchen. This place has a high level of humidity. In order to avoid frequent repairs, the wooden crate is treated with a special solution. This will increase the resistance of the wood to water. Neglect of this point can cause the "maintenance" of the plastic PVC panel.

Panel mounting

Installation of panels includes some types of preparatory work. The base must be prepared before hanging the panels on the ceiling. After the assembled frame, finishing continues. The strips are attached to the metal with self-tapping screws. The panels are cut based on the width of the frame. Controlling the deflection in the middle, the first panel is installed in the side fillets and pressed until the side also falls into the gap made for it.

Further, the panel is reinforced with a wide shelf. The stapler and nails are used at this stage. The second and the rest of the panels go one after the other, following the same method. Following the recommendations, there will be no problems in finishing the ceiling with panels. If you have additional questions, the training material on the video can help answer them, and a visual representation of the work will simplify the perception of information.

Wireframe method

The second way to install a panel ceiling is frame. The assembly of the frame is the very first point at the beginning of work. Such a frame can be made of wood, metal or plastic. Most often, this method is used with high humidity in the room. It is also suitable if the plan is to install mortise lamps. Wooden bars can work as well as plastic profiles.

The frame method involves removing excess plaster before creating a timber frame from beams. Flaking plaster parts are removed, as they are completely useless in further work. Then a frame is created for the panels.

The kitchen area is constantly exposed to high humidity and temperature fluctuations. This affects the ceiling the most, as vapors, soot, and hot air rise upward. So that you do not have to do repairs every year, you need to do the ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands, taking into account these factors, choosing the appropriate materials.

What ceilings are suitable for the kitchen

The ceiling in the kitchen must withstand high and low temperatures, be water-repellent, and wash well. Do not use flammable materials or materials with a porous surface. Additionally, one should take into account the possibility of flooding from above and choose a structure capable of retaining a large volume of water. Or vice versa, choose the type of ceiling that is easiest to restore.


The easiest way is plastering and painting. and the painted ceiling does not lose its original appearance for a long time, does not warp when exposed to moisture, is not afraid of temperature fluctuations and is easy to clean. If there is a water leak from above, the damaged area can be restored in a matter of hours. Both paint and putty are quite affordable, and all the finishing can be done by yourself.


Plastic panels are considered a viable option for a kitchen ceiling. They do not burn, have a very low hygroscopicity, and are easy to clean. To avoid deformation from high temperatures, the panels should be fixed with movable fasteners - clamps. It is better to give preference to seamless panels with a glossy finish, on which less soot and dust accumulates. In addition, the plastic ceiling is not afraid of flooding: water almost does not pass through tight joints and flows out at the corners of the structure.


Stretch ceilings made of PVC film are also good for kitchens. They look great, they are not afraid of moisture and heat, they are easy to wash, and most importantly, they retain water when flooded. This coating also has its drawbacks: it is easy to damage the film with any sharp object, the cost of the canvas is quite high, it will not be possible to carry out the installation on your own.




The described methods are the most practical and easy to carry out. It is easy to care for such ceilings, they retain their attractive appearance for a long time. Of course, a lot depends on the intensity of use of the kitchen and the quality. The less vapors, the less impact on the ceiling, and vice versa.

Video - DIY ceiling in the kitchen

The choice of finishing the kitchen ceiling should be approached with special care, because the coating should be not only beautiful, but also practical. The ceiling surface in the kitchen is often contaminated with grease and soot, subject to temperature extremes and the negative effects of moisture. Plastic cladding materials are suitable for ceiling decoration because they are resistant to moisture, easy to clean, beautiful, inexpensive and durable.

If you decide to install PVC panels on the ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands, then the installation sequence given in our article will help you make an attractive and durable ceiling covering.

Which ceiling is best for a kitchen, rack or panel?

When choosing a ceiling finish for a kitchen, home and apartment owners often find it difficult to choose between slatted and panel structures. To understand which is the best ceiling for the kitchen, rack or panel, it is worth considering the features and advantages of each material.

The ceiling laths are made of aluminum panels. The material is highly durable and reliable. On sale there are mirrored, chrome, gold and silver, matte and glossy products. There are also panels imitating marble and malachite. The main advantage of such structures is that there are many options for their joining, which allows you to create unique artistic compositions on the ceiling and complex multi-level structures with clear and smooth outlines.

Important! The main advantages of slatted ceilings are beauty, strength, fire resistance and durability, ease of maintenance. But due to the high cost of the material, this finish is not often used.

The ceiling made of plastic in the kitchen can withstand high humidity conditions and is easy to clean, like aluminum slats, but its durability and strength are somewhat lower. Plastic panels cannot be bent to create curved surfaces and transitions between levels. However, their main advantage over aluminum slats is at an affordable price.

The common thing between slatted and ceiling systems is that they are all mounted on a wooden ceiling lathing. To install the structure, you do not need to carefully prepare and level the base ceiling surface. It is possible to carry out local repairs and replace one panel, or dismantle and reassemble the covering in another room. With the help of suspended panel and slatted ceilings, you can level the base surface, hide its defects and utilities.

Important! The disadvantage of any suspended ceiling system is that it lowers the height of the room by a few centimeters, which is not suitable for low kitchens.

Advantages of PVC ceiling panels in the kitchen

The main advantages of these ceiling structures are in the beauty of the plastic ceiling in the kitchen, confirmation of this is the photo on the network.

Other advantages of these ceiling coverings include the following:

  1. The reasonable price of the material makes many consumers make a choice in its favor. At the same time, both the panels themselves and the materials for the manufacture of the frame are inexpensive. Some people hesitate to sheathe the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic due to the prejudice that PVC panels are a budget option for a cheap finish. But in fact, there are both inexpensive and not very beautiful panels on sale, as well as better quality beautiful products that will give the kitchen a respectable look.
  2. Fastening a false ceiling made of plastic is quite simple, so even a person without experience can cope with the work. The time spent on installing the ceiling is also short. This usually takes from several hours to one day.
  3. Plastic is resistant to moisture, it is easy to clean, so the ceiling is not threatened by high humidity and dirt in the kitchen.
  4. The material will last a long time while maintaining all its performance characteristics.
  5. It is convenient to hide engineering communications behind the suspended structure - ventilation ducts, wiring and even protruding building structures (ceiling beams, crossbars and purlins).
  6. The basic ceiling surface does not need special preparation and leveling. Moreover, the suspended ceiling will hide all the flaws and defects of the base.
  7. On sale there are white and multi-colored panels, products that imitate stone, marble, wood, textiles and other surfaces. This allows each consumer to choose a material that matches the style and color of the interior.
  8. In the suspended ceiling, you can install built-in lamps, which will additionally illuminate the work or dining area.

The disadvantage of the material is that over time, colored products fade, and white ones turn yellow. In addition, the disadvantage is that due to temperature changes in the kitchen, the seams often expand between the panels. But this usually only applies to low-quality cheap material.

Material calculation and panel selection

Today, the range of plastic panels has expanded significantly. There are white and colored items, elements with a pattern, pattern, embossed surface, gold, silver, matte and glossy coatings, with imitation of other materials.

The width of the slabs also differs. Standard products have a width of 25-30 cm, but there are covers with a width of 37, 60 cm.The length usually fluctuates around 2.7-3 m. lining of the ceiling surface. The thickness ranges from 5-10 mm.

To calculate the required number of panels, the ceiling area is divided by the area of ​​one product. Add 15% to the resulting number for trimming the material and round up.

In addition to the slats, you will need materials for making the frame. It is usually made from metal profiles or wooden bars. To calculate the components for assembling the lathing, we draw a diagram of the suspended structure on a sheet. We consider wooden slats or profiles on the basis that they are mounted over the entire ceiling area with a step of 600 mm. Also, along the perimeter of the room, you need to install a guide profile to fix the transverse rails or an additional bar.

In addition, you will need plastic skirting boards or PVC guide profiles to secure the edge of the panels and hide the interface with the walls. To count their number, you need to know the perimeter of the room.

Attention! Do not forget to stock up on hangers on which the entire structure is attached to the base ceiling. Their consumption is calculated as follows - for every half meter of the lathing, one suspension is taken.

PVC panel mounting technology

Since no special preparation of the base surface is required, installation begins after removing the previous finish, which does not hold well and may fall on the suspended ceiling. If there are areas with mold damage on the base surface, then they should be treated with special antifungal compounds. Before starting the installation of the suspended structure, it is advisable to lay all communications and wiring under the ceiling, as well as prepare the bases for lighting fixtures.

Tools and materials for work

If you decide to mount the PVC panel ceiling in the kitchen with your own hands, then stock up on the following tools and materials:

  • PVC panels;
  • plastic baguette;
  • profiles for the frame or wooden slats for lathing with a section of 5x2.5 cm or 4x2 cm;
  • mounting angle;
  • suspensions;
  • dowels and screws;
  • construction stapler and staples to it (if a wooden crate is mounted);
  • short self-tapping screws for metal work (if a metal frame is used);
  • puncher, drill, screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • pliers;
  • tape measure, ruler, square, pencil;
  • construction and laser level;
  • hacksaw for wood;
  • scissors for metal;
  • stationery knife;
  • ladder.

Installation of wooden lathing

First, the ceiling lathing is made for plastic panels.

Adhere to the following batten assembly sequence:

  1. First, find the lowest corner in the kitchen. From it we measure down the distance to which our entire ceiling structure descends. When calculating this distance, take into account the presence of built-in lighting fixtures. If there are any, then the height of the lowering of the ceiling is equal to the height of the base of the device plus 1 cm.
  2. Using a laser level, transfer the resulting mark to other corners of the room. We connect all the marks in the corners with horizontal lines on the wall.
  3. According to the markings on the walls, we attach a wooden beam or a guide profile. For fixing, we use self-tapping screws with dowels, which are installed in increments of 30-50 cm.
  4. We apply markings on the ceiling for the longitudinal profiles of the frame. We attach the hangers according to the markings with a step of 500 mm. If the kitchen area is small or the frame is made of wood, then the suspensions may not be used at all.
  5. Next, we install longitudinal profiles or slats with a step of 600 mm and attach them to the hangers and guides on the walls.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling

To fix the panels along the perimeter of the room close to the frame, we attach plastic skirting boards with a groove for finishing. For fixing we use screws or staples. After that, we cut the finishing material to the required length so that it is half a centimeter less than the width of the room.

We begin installation from the window. We unfold the first panel with a spike away from ourselves and put its short ends into the groove of the plastic baseboard. We advance the slab to the wall so that its spike goes into the groove of the PVC baguette on the wall. We securely fasten the shelf of the panel groove to the crate.

The next element is similarly inserted with its short ends into the grooves of the plinth and we move it to the previous panel so that the spike goes into the groove. We also attach the element to the crate. We cut the last plate to the required width from the side of the groove and also fix it to the frame, inserting the spike into the groove of the previous product.

Attention! If necessary, during the installation process, we cut holes in the facing material for built-in lighting devices, heating pipes or ventilation grilles.

This article discusses issues that are designed to help a common man in the street to mount a ceiling made of pvc panels in the kitchen with his own hands. It is described in detail what building materials and tools are needed for the production of work. The principle of calculating the required amount of building and fastening materials is shown. The main stages of work and construction operations are indicated.

A kitchen is a place where high humidity, temperature changes are constantly present, and fatty fumes are released from the food being cooked. All this negatively affects the elements of the kitchen interior. Several years after the repair, gray-brown stains appear on the walls, furniture and ceiling, consisting of fatty deposits mixed with dust adhering to them. Therefore, all finishing materials for the kitchen must withstand adverse factors well, be easy to clean and at the same time have an aesthetic appearance. Plastic panels meet all these requirements as well as possible. The ceiling made of pvc panels in the kitchen will serve for a long time, it is waterproof, easy to maintain, plus it is the least expensive option.

This article will be useful to those who decide to decorate the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels.

The main stages of work

The whole process of arranging the ceiling in the kitchen with PVC panels can be divided into 3 main stages:

  • preparatory;
  • mounting;
  • final.

Let's consider them in more detail.

Preparatory stage

This stage includes drawing up a preliminary installation scheme, calculating the quantity and purchasing all building and fastening materials, as well as preparing the necessary tools. But first things first.

Installation diagram of ceiling plastic panels and calculation of the required materials

To equip the ceiling, we need: PVC ceiling panels 250x3000 mm, wooden slats 40x25 mm (for lathing), a dowel-nail 6x40 mm, a self-tapping screw for wood 25x3.5 mm, nylon thread, ceiling plinth and liquid nails. In order to calculate the required amount of materials, it is necessary, first of all, to calculate the perimeter and area of ​​the ceiling.

Based on the area, we first determine the required number of PVC panels. To do this, divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​one panel. Round up to a higher number and add 15-20% to the cuts.

For example: for a kitchen 3 m long and 2.5 m wide, you need 12 plastic panels with dimensions of 3000x250 mm. When calculating the required number of wooden slats, take into account the following points:

  • firstly, we need to put the slats around the kitchen perimeter;
  • secondly, the rest of the frame slats will run along the length of the kitchen ceiling with a step between them of 500 - 600 mm;
  • thirdly, we need about 2 - 3 m slats for arranging suspensions and linings.

The number of dowel-nails is determined from the calculation of their fastening of rails along the perimeter with a step of at least 700 mm, as well as for fastening pads for suspensions. We buy enough wood screws to be enough for fixing the internal rails to the perimeter rails and to the suspensions, as well as suspensions to the linings.

The ceiling plinth needs to be purchased slightly larger than the perimeter of the ceiling. After purchasing building materials, we are preparing the tool.

Installation tools

  • hammer drill or hammer drill;
  • jigsaw or hacksaws for metal and wood;
  • screwdriver;
  • screwdriwer set;
  • hammer;
  • roulette;
  • marker or pencil;
  • pliers;
  • level;
  • square;
  • miter box;
  • furniture stapler with staples 10 mm;
  • a stepladder (although you can do without it).

After all the materials and tools are collected in the kitchen area, you can proceed to the second, main stage.

Installation of a plastic ceiling

Lathing

We begin installation with the installation of a wooden frame. To do this, using a pencil, a level and a tape measure, we draw along the walls, along the perimeter of the kitchen, a line parallel to the window and doorway. The distance of this line from the ceiling itself should be taking into account the distance by which you decide to lower the ceiling. At the same time, keep in mind that the upper border of the wooden frame slats, launched along the perimeter, will be aligned along it.

After that, using dowel-nails, we attach the slats to the walls of the kitchen. We attach the rail to the wall so that its upper part coincides with the drawn line. Then we drill a hole for the dowels right through it with a puncher and screw them in. The step between the dowel-nails is 600-700 mm.

Next, we mark the slats, attached along the width of the kitchen, for fastening the internal rails of the frame. The distance between these slats can be in the region of 700-800 mm. We pull nylon threads between the slats along the length of the kitchen at a distance of 600-700 mm. The thread can be fixed with small screws. With the help of the plane brought out by means of these threads, the entire frame will be built.

The next stage in the installation of the lathing will be the installation of pads and suspensions. First, we cut small blocks (100-150 mm) from a wooden lath. We attach them to the ceiling using 2 dowels at the intersection of the threads with the middle strips attached to the frame. When marking the place of attachment of the lining, it is necessary to take into account that suspensions will be attached to them from the sides, which will act as stiffeners for the middle battens of the battens. Following the linings, using wood screws, we fasten the middle battens of the battens to the perimeter battens along the length of the kitchen. Here stretched threads are the yardstick. Then, by fastening the suspensions prepared in advance, we ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. At this point, the question of installing the frame can be considered complete.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling

First, using a jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal, we cut the plastic panels to the width of the kitchen ceiling. We begin the installation of the first panel from the corner of the kitchen. To do this, we attach it with a spike to the wall and fasten this spike with the staples of a furniture stapler to the battens of the crate. Insert the next panel with a spike into the groove and again, using a stapler, fix it to the frame panels.

We cut the last panel according to the distance remaining to the wall, carefully insert the spike into the groove and fasten it to the crate.
Attention! It is best to lay pvc panels perpendicular to the window. In this case, the joints are less noticeable.

Installation of ceiling plinths

If no further cladding of the walls of the kitchen is planned, then the final chord of the installation of the plastic ceiling will be the installation of a foam ceiling plinth. First, they must be measured in accordance with the perimeter of the ceiling, and then the corners must be cut with a miter box. Using liquid nails or other adhesive solution, glue the ceiling plinth to the ceiling and wall.

You can temporarily use masking tape to make gluing easier. The joints between the skirting boards can be covered with white mastic or alabaster.

The final stage

After installing the ceiling from pvc panels in the kitchen, you can collect and take out garbage, remove unused materials, and also clean and hide the tool. Now enjoy your work by inviting your family members to share the joy of transforming your kitchen.