Decorating the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels - quickly and efficiently. Ceiling made of plastic panels in the kitchen (38 photos) - installation features Combined plastic ceilings for the kitchen
If there is a desire to update the interior in the living room, in the bathroom, hallway or, then you cannot do without the reconstruction of the ceiling. And one of the options could be the installation of a plastic lining on it. Today, the assortment of building stores contains a lot of polymer panels made in various colors or with drawings imitating natural finishing materials - stone or wood of various species. Therefore, this cladding can be selected for any, the most sophisticated interior, made in the style you like.
How independently, so that the final result looks "professional", become an integral part of the design of the entire room? This question arises for everyone who starts repairing residential premises, and you need to try to answer it within the framework of this article.
Characteristics of PVC ceiling panels
Finishing polymer panels, as a rule, consist of two thin plates spaced at a certain distance, between which there are stiffeners that connect the outer and inner sides and at the same time make the material more durable. On the lateral sides of the panels there are elements for connecting individual parts to each other, arranged according to the "tongue-and-groove" principle. They facilitate the installation of panels and securely hold them in any position strictly in the same plane.
- PVC lining, intended for installation on the ceiling, can have dimensions in length from 2400 to 6000 mm, and the width of the strips varies from 100 to 500 mm, thickness - from 5 to 12 mm.
- The panels are produced with a wide variety of surfaces - they can be glossy or matte, ideally white or colored, in the form of tiles and strips, with or without a textured pattern.
- For a high-quality finish, PVC panels are completed with the necessary assortment of fittings, which help to give a finished look to any of the surfaces lined with this material.
- The outer corner covers the joint of the panels at the outer corners. Its design allows you to hide the joints of cut unsightly edges.
- The F-profile is used to decorate the edges of the finishing structure. You cannot do without it, for example, when facing window slopes, or when finishing a ceiling that has several tiers.
- Docking profile is used in cases when the lining changes its direction. For example, panels are first installed on the ceiling along and then across, which helps to divide the surface into different design zones.
- The inner corner is installed at the junction of the ceiling and walls, in the event that it is not planned to install a ceiling plinth in this place.
- The starting profile can be installed in different places of the structure, where it is required to close the edge of the plastic panel.
- Ceiling plinth is mounted along the perimeter of the ceiling before installing the lining panels, giving the design neatness and completeness. To connect the skirting board at the corners, you will need special connecting corners, under which the cut edges of the skirting board are hidden.
- The material from which the panels are made is environmentally friendly, recognized by the Ministry of Health as safe for the human body.
- The surface, decorated with plastic panels, is easy to clean, it lends itself to both wet and dry cleaning.
- The service life of this material, with proper installation and maintenance, can be 10 ÷ 12 years, without losing its original appearance.
- Ease of installation allows, even in the absence of experience in this work, to carry out the process of installing the material on the desired surface independently, without the involvement of specialists.
- The price of plastic lining is not too high, so if one or more panels are damaged, they can be replaced with new ones, without damaging the rest of the surface.
Selection criteria for plastic ceiling panels
When buying PVC panels, you need to rely on several selection criteria:
- Panel size: width, thickness and length.
The length of the water must be said separately - it must be chosen in such a way that as little waste as possible remains. For example, with a room width of 2400 mm, it is worth purchasing a lining with a length of 2500 or 5000 mm.
- Since the panels can be of different quality, their price also varies significantly. You should not buy cheap finishing materials, as they will last a shorter period of time than high-quality ones. Determining the quality of the panels is not so difficult, paying attention to the following points:
- Appearance: the correct geometry of the panels, the quality of the surface, its evenness and the uniformity of the pattern distribution. Stiffeners installed inside the lining should not appear on its surface.
In high-quality panels, the thickness of the outer walls should be at least 1.5–2 mm, the same applies to the stiffeners - the more stable they are, the longer the material will last. If, when pressed with fingers, the ribs bend, this indicates a low quality of the material, since they should not react to such an impact.
- To the touch, the surface should be uniform and perfectly flat, longitudinal and lateral distortions are unacceptable on it.
- It is also necessary to check the ease of joining the two panels. To do this, you need to connect them and see if a single plane is obtained without gaps, or if the surface has unintended gaps. High-quality panels should be easy to dock, the spike should go completely into the groove, without leaving visible traces of assembly on the surface.
Checking the quality of the material - when bending, the plastic should not break
- Another quality criterion is the bending test of the plastic. To do this, it is necessary to bend and unbend the corner of the protruding mounting strip several times near the panel groove. If after these manipulations there are no traces left on its surface, and it remains intact, it means that the material for the manufacture was of high quality, and the molding technology of the parts was fully observed.
Prices for popular types of plastic ceiling panels
Plastic ceiling panels
Calculation of the required amount of materials
In order to calculate the required number of lining to decorate the ceiling in a particular room, you need to carry out the following calculations:
- Determine the area of the ceiling and one panel.
- Then the resulting size of the surface must be divided by the area of the panel - as a result, the number of elements required for installation will be obtained.
- It is recommended to add 15% to the result obtained, and then this number is rounded up to the nearest whole.
- To determine the length of the hardware starting profile and the ceiling cornice, two lengths and two widths of the ceiling surface are added, and then 15% of the resulting total perimeter is also added to it.
- To know how much metal profile or timber is required for installation of the frame, which will be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling and on its surface, you need to carry out the following calculation:
- You can determine the length of the frame elements installed along the perimeter in the same way as when calculating the required number of the starting profile.
- Then the size of the ceiling surface between the walls must be divided into equal lengths from 400 to 600 mm. Lines will later pass through them, along which the middle guides of the crate will be fixed - this will determine the amount of timber (metal profile), and its length will be equal to the width or length of the room, depending on the planned orientation of the finishing material.
If a timber is selected for the frame, its cross-section should be 20 × 50 mm.
In the event that a metal profile is selected for the lathing, you can use the table to calculate the number of parts that may be required for mounting the frame:
Part appearance | Part name and size in mm | unit of measurement | Consumption rate per 1 sq. M |
---|---|---|---|
Ceiling profile CD 60/27 | Running meter | 3.2 | |
Profile extension 60/110. Used to extend, if necessary, the length of the main profile | PCS. | 0.6 | |
Direct ceiling suspension 60/27 | PCS. | 1.3 | |
Single-level connector (crab) 60/27 | PCS. | It can be used to strengthen the frame, for example, when installing additional jumpers or in the places where fixtures are installed. The quantity is calculated locally. | |
Self-tapping screw TN 25 | PCS. | 17 | |
Dowels for fixing frame elements to the ceiling | PCS. | 1.3 |
In addition, you will need to purchase self-tapping screws with a wide head (press washer), with which the lining will be attached to a metal profile or a wooden beam, at the rate of 1 pc. by 500 mm of the length of the lining panels.
What else needs to be done before starting the installation of the battens?
Even if the unsightly surface of the ceiling is completely lined with plastic panels, this does not mean that it does not need to be tidied up.
It is necessary to carry out certain repair work - and, if necessary, even with the subsequent priming of the surface with antifungal compounds. Recommendations for performing these operations are on the pages of our portal.
Installation of battens under ceiling panels
Ceiling markings
Whatever material for the frame is chosen, the marking before fastening it is done in approximately the same way.
- The ceiling on opposite sides of the room is marked into equal segments.
- Then a painted twine is taken, stretched along the length or width of the room, and straight lines are struck on the ceiling along which the frame guides will be attached.
- Lines are also beaten off along the perimeter of the ceiling, since the bars or profiles will first of all be fixed in these areas. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that if the ceiling drops on suspensions, then the markings for the extreme profiles are made on the walls below the joint line the distance over which it is planned to omit the entire structure.
- If the lathing is not mounted on the very surface of the ceiling, but in a suspended state, lowered to a certain distance, marks are made on the broken lines, at a distance of 500 ÷ 700 mm from each other, along which the suspensions will be fixed.
Frame installation
There are several ways to attach the frame:
1. Installation of the frame, which it is planned to lower it to a certain distance, it starts with fixing the suspensions at the marked points of the broken lines. To do this, holes are drilled through a plumb line using a drill in the ceiling, into which two or three dowels are driven. Thus, the fixation of the suspensions takes place on the entire surface of the ceiling.
- Further, on the walls, a metal profile is fixed along the outlined lines. Through it, holes are also drilled in the wall with a step of 300 ÷ 350 mm, and dowels are driven into them.
- After that, a metal profile is installed into the suspensions at the required height, and is fixed on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal.
- The ends of the hanging profile are installed in the guide profile on the walls and are also fixed with two self-tapping screws.
- If desired, instead of a suspended metal profile 60 × 27, you can use wooden beams.
- After that, in the places where the lamps will be fixed, the profile or slats are reinforced with jumpers.
They can be secured using "crabs", or by cutting the profiles at the corners and bending them at right angles.
2. Another option for securing a wooden frame is to install the timber directly on the ceiling or on pads, which are used instead of suspensions.
- The edges of wooden beams on the walls are also installed and fixed in metal guide profiles or also on a beam installed on the wall and fixed with metal corners.
- The timber is nailed to the ceiling with dowels through holes drilled through it. In this case, you need to purchase dowels of such a length that they enter the ceiling by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
- If wooden linings of the required thickness are installed between the ceiling and the wooden frame, then they are attached to the ceiling, and a bar is screwed onto them using self-tapping screws.
After the installation of the frame is completed, electrical wiring is pulled between its elements to install lighting devices.
For safety reasons, it is recommended to pull the electrical wires through a special insulating wire, which can be fixed to the hangers or side parts of the metal profile. When installing the wiring, the cables must not be powered by electricity. The connection is carried out only after the completion of all work on securing the lining and installing lamps.
Installation of plastic panels
Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way, what on a frame made of a metal profile, what on made of wooden beams. It is worth noting that screwing screws into wood is easier than into metal elements, but, on the other hand, a frame made of a galvanized profile is in total much lighter in weight.
So, the installation of plastic panels takes place in the following sequence:
- Along the perimeter of the ceiling, a starting U-shaped bar is screwed onto a metal profile or wooden beam.
- Instead, a rail can be fixed for the installation of a ceiling plinth, if you plan to install it.
- Further, the ceiling plinth itself is installed in the strip, which, together with the strip, forms a gap for installing plastic panels in it.
- To make it very clear how these two parts are mounted, you need to carefully consider the following photo.
- Further, in the U-shaped profile or in the gap formed by the ceiling plinth and the strip, the first sheathing panel is installed.
- The lining panel is leveled and screwed to each bar or frame profile with a self-tapping screw with a wide head.
- The next panel is inserted with its spike into the groove of the previous one, thereby hiding the head of the self-tapping screw. It is necessary to ensure full entry of the mating elements along the entire length of the panel, so that there are no gaps or distortions. The inserted panel is fixed in the same way - using self-tapping screws.
- In the future, these operations are repeated with each successive panel.
- On the panels of the lining, which fall into the place where it should be installed, holes are cut out before installation, and a cable is passed through them immediately, during installation.
- The installation of the last cladding element is difficult, since this process must be carried out very carefully. The main catch here is that the panel fits into the groove of the previous one and into the opening of the starting profile or ceiling plinth. This is difficult to do, so it will be easier to attach the panel to the wall with self-tapping screws through and through, and then the heads will be hidden by the ceiling plinth.
- The last stage is closed at the joints with a special corner, which closes the sections of this decorative and functional element.
- After completing the installation of the casing, spotlights are connected to the electrical cables.
Switching the electrical wiring of the lamps ...
- Then the cable is tucked under the installed panel, and the luminaire is inserted into the hole, fixing itself on special metal "ears" - spacers.
... and fitting the luminaires into their designated receptacles.
Craftsmen who are professionally engaged in the installation of ceiling cladding from any type of lining recommend that during the installation of panels constantly monitor the evenness of its rows, since the bevel of one of them will entail a decrease in the assembly quality of the entire surface of the ceiling.
Video: step by step Video instruction for installation of ceiling panels
To make such a ceiling update, using the recommendations and choosing the right materials, every homeowner can do it. Therefore, if such a desire arises, you need to boldly take up the work and carry it out slowly, carefully performing each technological operation.
You can try other options for finishing the ceiling.
So, many people like it. True, here, most likely, you will have to face the need for careful and for its decoration.
Fashion for modern ceilings allows designers to show the most daring ideas. Very beautiful ceilings can be made without serious costs of material and money. The ceiling in the kitchen made of plastic panels is available to everyone, and it is not necessary to invite specialists to install PVC. You can do a beautiful ceiling decoration on your own, the main thing is to prepare well and have a reliable plan of action.
The advantages of plastic
An aesthetic ceiling can be beautiful enough to be considered the most modern kitchen ceiling design solution. Ceiling material can be very practical to maintain - and installation costs can be kept to a minimum.
What are the benefits of installing ceiling panels in their kitchens?
- PVC plastic panels can be of various shapes and sizes. The dimensions and the number of sections per panel allow you to choose from a wide range of exactly those panels that can decorate your kitchen, taking into account the wall decoration and the color scheme of furniture;
- The PVC finish is very easy to clean and practical to maintain. Cleaning is very simple, without the use of special cleaning agents. Soot and dirt on the ceiling can be removed very easily, and restrictions in this regard exist only for glossy or mirror surfaces - abrasive substances in this case are prohibited;
- High moisture resistance PVC panel can withstand even real flood. The ability to dry independently, without cracking or damage, is a very important factor, and the material does not require third-party intervention. You may need to remove the plastic ceiling only if there is really too much water;
- The cladding of a bathroom or balcony can also be carried out with such panels, and it is moisture resistance that plays a decisive role here. And for the kitchen, such characteristics of the material are especially relevant;
- Installation of panels helps to hide wires, communications from pipes, and it is very convenient - you do not have to make special recesses in the surface of the ceiling, and the wiring with pipes is kept quite freely;
- Ceiling defects can be hidden behind PVC panels. Even serious irregularities in the ceiling do not constitute difficulties for the installation of panels, and the panels themselves, in aesthetic terms, are an excellent way to hide defects and irregularities, without the need for additional plastering or finishing work on the ceiling;
- Temperature drops do not affect PVC, the shape of the panels remains stable, as well as its stability, which is very convenient;
- Installation of spotlights is carried out without problems - these are the ceilings that are ideally designed for this type of lighting. You can mount them anywhere, but they look very beautiful;
- Maintenance work, repair and maintenance of plastic ceilings can be done on their own, which does not cause absolutely any difficulties or problems. The frame is assembled initially, then plastic panels are attached to it. A perfectly flat ceiling surface is not needed;
- By including sound-insulating materials in the frame, a high degree of sound insulation can be obtained, and such work is also very simple;
- The environmental safety of plastic ceilings is very high. From temperature or moisture, the coating does not create an unpleasant odor and does not decompose. In this way, this ceiling is qualitatively different from a similar type of suspended ceiling;
- The price of a PVC panel is very affordable, you can do the installation yourself, all these factors in the configuration can significantly affect the economy of your home budget.
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Material calculation
The very first stage of work when installing a ceiling in a kitchen made of plastic panels is to calculate the number of profiles and consumables. This process must be performed first. Knowing how much of what is required, you can stock up on material in advance, and at the same time not overpay or buy it again in the process.
- Calculation of the amount of panel masonry. After calculating the area of the kitchen ceiling, the resulting number is divided by the area of one PVC plastic panel. The size of such a panel can be found on its packaging. The ceiling area is obtained by multiplying the length by the width. 10-15% for the stock can significantly simplify the work, eliminating the possibility of a shortage of material for the coating;
- The number of profiles for installation should also be calculated in advance. It is best to do this by first drawing a ceiling plan in compliance with all sizes and scales. The number of required profile should be equal to the total length of all lines drawn around the perimeter, 50-60 cm from each other and parallel to one of the sides. A stiffer profile should be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and a softer material of the CD category is suitable for the transverse strips;
- Fasteners must be purchased in advance, the calculation in this case is not very difficult - one dowel is required for 0.5 meters of the profile;
- Self-tapping screws, which are necessary for fastening the profile. Such self-tapping screws should be on wide caps. 0.5 meters of panel length is equal to one self-tapping screw. Fasteners are bought with a margin in any case, this helps to simplify installation work;
- The ceiling plinth is the last thing you need to stock up on before starting work. He is always ready to decorate the panel ceiling, and according to the standard its length is from three meters. The length of the perimeter of the suspended ceiling is divided by three, then the amount obtained as a result is increased to a number that is a multiple of three.
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Required tool
What tools will be needed to carry out the work on the cladding of the kitchen ceiling? Preparing the tool is very important - having stocked up in advance with everything you need, the work can be done quickly and in the shortest possible time. Among the component parts, you need to stock up on:
- Frame profiles;
- PVC baguettes;
- L-shaped profiles;
- Mounting corners;
- Wooden slats or metal profile;
- Fasteners made of metal type P, for plasterboard ceilings.
You will need the following tools:
- Plastic dowels and screws;
- Metal staples and stapler;
- Drill and screwdriver;
- Pliers and hammer;
- Hacksaw or scissors for metal;
- Square and knife;
- Marker and pencil.
All work will be carried out in the kitchen. This place has a high level of humidity. In order to avoid frequent repairs, the wooden crate is treated with a special solution. This will increase the resistance of the wood to water. Neglect of this point can cause the "maintenance" of the plastic PVC panel.
Panel mounting
Installation of panels includes some types of preparatory work. The base must be prepared before hanging the panels on the ceiling. After the assembled frame, finishing continues. The strips are attached to the metal with self-tapping screws. The panels are cut based on the width of the frame. Controlling the deflection in the middle, the first panel is installed in the side fillets and pressed until the side also falls into the gap made for it.
Further, the panel is reinforced with a wide shelf. The stapler and nails are used at this stage. The second and the rest of the panels go one after the other, following the same method. Following the recommendations, there will be no problems in finishing the ceiling with panels. If you have additional questions, the training material on the video can help answer them, and a visual representation of the work will simplify the perception of information.
Wireframe method
The second way to install a panel ceiling is frame. The assembly of the frame is the very first point at the beginning of work. Such a frame can be made of wood, metal or plastic. Most often, this method is used with high humidity in the room. It is also suitable if the plan is to install mortise lamps. Wooden bars can work as well as plastic profiles.
The frame method involves removing excess plaster before creating a timber frame from beams. Flaking plaster parts are removed, as they are completely useless in further work. Then a frame is created for the panels.