Hydrangea: planting and caring for it outdoors. Hydrangea (Hydrangea), (Hydrangea)

The genus Hydrangea (Hydrangea Hydrangea) includes 35 species. Homeland - Southeast Asia, North and South America. Among the representatives of the genus, there are mainly deciduous shrubs with long semi-ample shoots, less often small trees. The name from the Greek words "hydor" - water, "aggeion" - a vessel, was formed in view of the obvious moisture-loving nature of this plant.

Hydrangea belongs to decorative flowering shrubs, inflorescences are mainly of corymbose shape, as a rule, consist of two types of flowers: small fruiting ones, located in the middle of the inflorescence; marginal - large, sterile, of 4-5 petal sepals, mostly snow-white, blue or pinkish. The fruit is a capsule with numerous small seeds.

Hydrangea Hydrangea arborescens - in nature it grows up to 3 meters high, forming a dense bush with large, whole leaves - about 20 cm long, with a serrated edge. It blooms with white flowers without aroma, about 2 cm in diameter, collected in corymbose inflorescences about 15 cm in size. Breeders have bred varieties with double (completely sterile) flowers, inflorescences of which are more than 25 cm in diameter, of a wide variety of shades. This hydrangea overwinters easily in central Russia, it is well formed by pruning, including cardinal. It grows very quickly.

Large-leaved hydrangea Hydrangea macrophylla is somewhat more modest - in nature it grows up to 2 meters high, has broad ovate large leaves (about 15 cm). It is this type of hydrangea that is called garden; several dozen varieties can be found on sale. Shield inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter, there are varieties with spherical extremely large inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter, sterile white, pink, red or blue flowers, each flower up to 7 cm in diameter.

The large-leaved hydrangea has decorative forms with variegated leaves, for example, the Tricolor variety - a white stripe along the edge of the leaves, the leaf blade itself is light green.

Large-leaved hydrangea is more thermophilic than tree hydrangea; in central Russia, winter shelter from frost is required (winter hardiness up to -15C).

Large-leaved hydrangea is often grown as a tub or greenhouse plant (for a winter garden). At the same time, the height of the bushes reaches a maximum height of one and a half meters, more often no more than 1 meter in height. Grows well under artificial light.

You can also decorate your garden Hydrangea paniculata Hydrangea paniculata is an oriental beauty native to southern Sakhalin, Japan and China. This is a taller, frost-resistant shrub - about 2.5-3 meters in height, in the wild up to 10 meters, has elliptical leaves up to 15 cm in length with a velvety surface. Inflorescences are dense pyramidal (panicles) up to 30 cm in length. Long bloom, from mid-summer to mid-autumn.

Hydrangea Bretschneider Hydrangea bretschneideri is a medium-sized shrub with a spreading crown up to 3 meters high, very frost-resistant (homeland - North China, adapts in Siberia and the Urals). Stems are reddish, with exfoliating thin bark on young shoots. Leaves are ovoid, fluffy on the back, 10-12 cm long. Umbrella inflorescences, about 15 cm in diameter, with small flowers that change color from white at the beginning of flowering to red at the end of flowering. Fruits form on the inflorescences over time.

Another Far Eastern hydrangea - Petiolate hydrangea Hydrangea petiolaris, native to southern Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands and Japan, is more of an ampelous form - the plant has airborne measles with suckers, which allows shoots to cling to rocks or tree trunks. Without support, shoots spread along the ground, forming a ground cover form. As a shrub, this species must be started to grow by fixing the stems to a support. Leaves are broadly ovate, long-petiolate, smooth, with a finely toothed margin. Inflorescences are corymbose, 20-25 cm in diameter. Despite the fact that the petals of the central fertile flowers do not last long, the inflorescences are quite decorative, and the shrub is a real decoration of the walls of houses, gazebos and other buildings. Despite the origin, the petiolate hydrangea is less frost-resistant than the previous species; it needs shelter in severe winters.

Location

In the southern regions of Russia, choose a place that is bright, but protected from the scorching afternoon sun (partial shade). From the eastern, northwestern part of the site of the gazebo, the wall of a house or a barn.

In the central regions of Russia and the northern regions, choose a place that is drier and more open, warmed by the sun, but keep in mind that hydrangeas do not like prolonged exposure to direct sunlight (south and south-west side). Try not to plant hydrangeas next to other plants with water loaves or large shrubs and trees - there is competition for moisture, the plants will have to be watered often.

Soil for hydrangeas

Hydrangea is considered one of the most unpretentious garden shrubs, however, only if it is planted on the soil appropriate for its needs: nutritious, with a sufficient amount of humus, containing many draining particles, well filled with moisture.

If you have an uncultivated piece of land, you need to prepare a mixture of soil consisting of 2 parts of humus, 2 parts of leafy soil, one part of peat and one sand in a hole dug for planting.

If vegetables grew in the same place, under which manure was applied, the humus part must be reduced. Hydrangea does not like dense clay soils - they are moisture-absorbing, but they dry out for a long time and are poorly supplied with oxygen, such soil must be diluted with peat. Sandy soil is poor in humus content, and it also needs to be enriched with humus and peat.

You can not plant hydrangeas on alkalized soils, with an acidity of pH higher than 6.0, the optimum pH is about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas

It is best to plant hydrangeas in the spring, when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. In the southern regions of Russia, it can be planted in the fall.

When planning a place for planting hydrangeas, it is necessary to take into account the size of an adult bush, leaving a distance of about 1 meter between plantings.

The size of the dug hole is about 50-60 cm wide and deep. Fill it 20-30 cm with soil, then put a 5 liter bucket inside (empty) and fill it around with earth. Compact the soil. Now take out the bucket - you will have a neat hole 25-30 cm in diameter and wide and deep. Place a hydrangea bush or a rooted stalk in it, without deepening the root collar. Sprinkle soil over the roots, not compacting too much. Water.

In 3-5 days, the earth will settle, after which it will turn into peat.

How to care for hydrangea

Hydrangeas should be watered regularly, especially in dry, hot weather. Water for irrigation should be taken soft, preferably rainwater, hard water with a high proportion of hydrangea lime is contraindicated, if such water is in the well, just accumulate rainwater in barrels.

If the weather is rainy, precipitation often falls, you need to loosen the soil around the hydrangeas at least once a week, to a depth of 7-10 cm in order to improve aeration of the roots.

In late spring, early summer, feed the hydrangeas with a diluted mullein (ratio 1:10), and two weeks later with full mineral fertilizer for flowering plants (for example, Fertika Lux), or make up the fertilizer yourself from 1 tbsp. spoons, 1 teaspoon of potash and 1 teaspoon for 10 liters of water.

In the future, you do not need to make additional fertilizing more often than once a month, it is enough to periodically mulch the soil under the bushes with humus or peat.

Discoloration of hydrangeas

Many gardeners know that hydrangeas, when blooming, easily change the color of flowers when the acid composition of the soil changes. So, watering with alum gives the flowers a blue color, for this you need to dissolve 5 g of the product in 1 liter of water. Alum is sold in flower shops or pharmacies. For reference, the composition of alum: heptahydrate of aluminum and potassium salts.

In order for the flowers of hydrangeas to change color, you need to spill them with alum once a week for a month.

If the acidity of the soil is insufficient, then hydrangeas tend to acquire a pink tint, and some varieties simply lose their color - they fade and discolor. In sour peat, the flowers acquire a purple or blue hue, so you can water the bushes with water infused with peat.

To, on the contrary, increase the intensity of the pink color of the flowers of hydrangeas, you can water them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

Pruning hydrangeas

Hydrangeas form dense, lush bushes, and they bloom on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, the more branches a plant has, the more magnificent the flowering will be. Strong pruning should be carried out in the fall, after flowering along with the peduncle (cardinal pruning is permissible, especially in the case of diseases or pests, when it makes no sense to leave and try to cure diseased branches).

But young hydrangeas that have not yet formed many shoots, for better branching, need to be cut in the spring, before the buds open, shortening them by 2-3 buds, no more (otherwise, they are greatly depleted from abundant sap flow).

Very old bushes of hydrangeas (and they are long-lived plants) are renewed by pruning at the root. So the bushes can be preserved for decades, not forgetting to ennoble the soil under them by introducing humus and mulch (including leaf humus).

Young plants are ready to bloom profusely in the first year after planting. However, the abundant bloom can severely drain hydrangeas. Therefore, on a bush about 50 cm high, it is better to leave no more than 2-3 inflorescences, and cut off the rest.

Shelter hydrangeas for the winter

The most popular hydrangeas in our gardens - treelike and large-leaved, show good frost resistance. The most popular hydrangea of the Annabelle variety perfectly winters in the Moscow region and the Leningrad region without additional.

Some varieties of large-leaved hydrangea of Dutch origin are somewhat softer, like any young hydrangeas grown from cuttings and layering - they must be mulched in autumn with peat, leafy soil, humus or a mixture of humus and sawdust to protect them from freezing. Cover the bushes themselves with spruce branches. But do not forget to remove the shelter in the spring to avoid damping out.

In regions with harsh winters, it is necessary to additionally cover hydrangeas for the winter with film or spunbond. With the onset of frosty weather, bend the shoots to the ground, mulch, cover with a film of leaf litter. It is better not to use straw, because mice love her.

In the spring, after the snow has melted, remove the film cover, tie up the hydrangea shoots in an upright position, but before the onset of warm days (until the threat of return frosts has passed), keep the burlap cover (no damping occurs under it).

Reproduction of hydrangea

Garden hydrangea is easily propagated in a vegetative way - by cuttings and layering of the bush.

For propagation by cuttings, you need to cut off more green twigs during flowering from the ends of non-lignified shoots of the current year's growth. The size of the cuttings is about 15-17 cm. Tear off the lower leaves, dip the tip of the cutting into a root or other root stimulator and immerse it for rooting in a container filled with a mixture of vermiculite and peat soil. It is better for hydrangeas to root in conditions of high humidity (in a mini-greenhouse or under a bag).

If the cuttings rot, cut fresh ones, and sterilize the rooting substrate by frying on a baking sheet.

Abundant and lush flowering from rooted branches can be expected no earlier than in 4-5 years.

Large-leaved hydrangea is often grown as a house plant, so it can be propagated before winter - by separating small layers from the mother bush and planting it in an ordinary flower pot. It is necessary to keep a garden hydrangea in a pot in winter in the coldest place - on an unglazed balcony until frost, or on a cold window sill with a slightly open frame or window, where the temperature is not higher than 15 ° C, although the optimal wintering of hydrangeas at home is at a temperature of +2 -7 ° C.

The composition of the soil in a pot for hydrangeas: 2 parts of sod land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of coarse river sand or fine gravel.

Hydrangea grows naturally in South Asia, North America and the Far East. Its life form is represented mainly by shrubs, but there are also hydrangea-lianas. In total, there are almost a hundred species of hydrangeas in the world. They differ from each other in color, height and splendor of flowering. Large and attractive flowers leave almost no one indifferent. Therefore, this flower has taken its place of honor in landscape design and in summer cottages. In this review, we will talk about proper planting and caring for this flower.

In a cold climate, hydrangea is not able to grow to the size with which it pleases the inhabitants of southern Asia and Japan. Dense thickets of lianas braiding trees, and evergreen varieties of shrubs are also not pleasing to the eye. But compact hydrangea bushes, with proper care, will look no worse than if they grew in their homeland.

Hydrangea leaves are quite large, veins are clearly visible on them, the edges are often serrated, and the leaves are located on the stem opposite each other. Flowering begins in early summer, and ends with the onset of frost. Flowers are large, spherical or paniculate. Most varieties have white flowers. But the large-leaved hydrangea can change color depending on the level of acidity of the soil.

It blooms in white when the acidity of the soil is neutral; lilac and pink when alkaline. And if the soil is acidic, then the flowers take on a beautiful blue color.

The color of a plant is influenced by the aluminum in the soil, which plants are able to accumulate in themselves.

Another plant is very similar to hydrangea - schizophagma. It is also called petiolate hydrangea. But it should be remembered that in fact it is not a hydrangea and belongs to a completely different genus.

Growing features

To change the color of the inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangea, it is necessary to adjust the acidity of the soil. To obtain blue flowers, the soil must be acidified, and for pink flowers, it must be deacidified with lime or dolomite flour.

Hydrangea loves moisture very much, so you don't need to spare water for it and water it abundantly enough.

Flowers love the sun in the morning hours, and at noon they need partial shade so that the petals do not fade.
Hydrangea must be covered for the winter. This is especially true of the large-leaved hydrangea that blooms on last year's shoots.

But pests and diseases do not affect this plant very often.

How to grow from seeds

Species hydrangeas can be grown from seeds. But, as you know, during seed reproduction, the properties of the mother plant can be lost. Therefore, this method is used for the selection of new species. The seeds are sown in the fall. The soil mixture for planting should consist of four parts of leafy soil, two parts of peat and one part of river sand.

The seeds should be sprinkled with a light layer of earth and moistened with a spray bottle. Then the box with the sown seeds must be covered with foil or glass. Condensate is periodically removed from them, and crops are opened for ventilation and humidification. After all, the ground should always be moist. The most favorable temperature for seed germination is from 14 - 20 degrees. In a month and a half, shoots will appear.

After that, the glass is completely removed. As the plants grow, a pick is made twice. The first time the seedlings dive at the stage of cotyledon leaves. And in May, a second pick is carried out with the transplant of each plant into a separate container with a diameter of 7 centimeters.

After the last pick, the seedlings begin to harden. They are taken out into the fresh air during the day, protected from direct sunlight, rain moisture and drafts. At night, hydrangeas are brought into the room. For the first two years, they will grow at home. In a cool and bright room in winter, and on the balcony in summer, but you should try to take them out into the fresh air. The buds should be torn off to prevent flowering from weakening the young plants.

Transfer to the ground

After two years, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the garden. Planting is done in early spring.

In autumn, plants are planted only in areas with a cold climate.

The landing site should be sunny, shaded at midday. Hydrangea prefers soil slightly acidic or neutral, rich in organic matter and rather loose. High-moor peat must be added to alkaline soil. Trees and bushes should not grow near the planting site.

The size of the hole for the flower should be twice the size of the earthen coma of the hydrangea. Fertilizers, peat and sod land are introduced into the pit. Then you should take out the seedling, lightly shake off the ground and spread its roots. Place the hydrangea in the hole so that the roots are free in it. You need to fill up the hole with earth mixed with compost. The root ball should be slightly above the level of the site. The soil around the plant is crushed, watered and mulched with bark or needles.

Video about planting hydrangeas in open ground

Care and cultivation

The main rule is very abundant watering.

One adult plant can be poured 30-50 liters of water if the weather is hot. Watering should be reduced if the soil around the bushes is mulched. Several times over the summer, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5 centimeters to improve its aeration. During flowering, it is worth removing faded shoots.

Fertilizer

Hydrangea is fed 2 times a year. In the spring, 20 grams of urea is diluted in a bucket of water and the flower is watered with this solution. Three buckets must be poured onto one adult bush. And after flowering, the hydrangea is fed with a full complex of mineral fertilizers.... In the summer, you can water the flowers with slurry, but it is very important not to overdo it, because too large inflorescences can break the stems. To avoid breaking the stems, it is better to tie them up.

Pruning

For the first four years, hydrangeas do not require pruning. Further pruning in early spring, when the buds are slightly swollen... The panicle is cut off by a third, the tree-like one, leaving from three to six buds, but the large-leaved one should not be cut off. This type of hydrangea blooms on the shoots of the last year, so in the spring only old and growing shoots are removed. Cuttings obtained by pruning can be rooted.

Propagation by cuttings

There must be two nodes on the handle: the lower cut is made oblique, and the upper one is straight. The distance from the cut to the knot is about 2 centimeters.

Cuttings should be chosen healthy, strong, without damage.

They are planted in a small container with wet sand and peat soil. Cuttings are deepened by three centimeters, you can first powder them in "Kornevin" to stimulate root formation. The seedlings should be watered and kept moist at all times. From above, the cuttings are covered with a film, from which condensation must be regularly removed. After about a month, rooting will occur and the hydrangeas can be planted in a permanent place. In the first winters, even frost-resistant varieties need shelter.

How to prepare flowers for winter in the fall

In the fall, potted plants must be brought into the house. Garden hydrangeas mulch and huddle. The inflorescences and lower leaves must be removed. Removing the lower leaves contributes to the lignification of the shoots and the improvement of their frost resistance. Ground cover and panicle hydrangeas are the most frost-resistant and do not need shelter. Also in the central regions, tree hydrangea can do without shelter.

It is necessary to cover hydrangeas in October after the first frost.

It is enough to cover young plants with a thick layer of dry earth and foliage. Planks are placed around adult plants and shoots are pinned to them. The top is covered with foliage, spruce branches, spandbond and boards. You can also put tree branches on the bushes so that the snow on this place lasts longer. After winter, the shelter is removed gradually. Spandbond is harvested last when there is no danger of recurrent frost.

Video about the shelter of paniculate hydrangea for the winter

Thanks to the luxurious hemispherical inflorescences of different colors, the hydrangea in the garden is a wonderful design element. In Europe, the shrub, named after the sister of the prince of the Roman Empire, Karl-Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen, appeared in 1820. The Latin name of the plant is "Hydrangea" (hydrangea) - "a vessel with water": the shape of the seed pods resembles a jug, besides, the hydrangea is moisture-loving.

Shrub description

There are about 80 types of hydrangea in the world. Large-leaved (it is garden, it is macrophile) is especially popular among Russian gardeners. This is a two-meter perennial with simple ovoid leaves of bright green color, the stem is erect. Large flowers (up to 3.5 cm) form lush inflorescence caps (in some varieties, 30 cm in diameter) at the ends of the shoots. The palette of colors - from the most delicate white to deep purple. Macrophile bloom time is July and August.

Dates and place of landing

Hydrangeas are planted in the spring, when the threat of secondary frosts has passed (northern and central regions). In the southern regions, autumn planting is allowed (until the end of September). Growing a garden lady requires some effort from the gardener. The plant loves warmth and light, it is demanding on the soil. Therefore, when choosing a site for landing, one should be guided by the illumination of the place and the composition of the soil.

For a macrophile, it is preferable to choose an open sunny area. It is great if the bush is lit for 6 hours a day, especially in the morning and evening. On hot days, the plant will need light shading - it grows well in diffused light. In semi-shaded areas, the hydrangea will also feel good, but it blooms later and produces fewer flowers. It should be borne in mind that drafts are not safe for her... Hydrangea should not be planted under tall trees, otherwise the "neighbors" will deprive it of a sufficient amount of moisture.

The shrub grows well on loose, moisture-permeable soil with good oxygen access, rich in humus. Dense clay areas with poor air permeability and drying out for a long time must be diluted with peat. There is not enough humus in the sandy soil - peat and humus are introduced into it. The ideal soil for hydrangea is a mixture of leafy soil, well-decomposed compost, peat and river coarse sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1.

Attention: garden hydrangea categorically does not tolerate calcareous soils - from lime, the plant develops chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves).

The soil should be slightly acidic (pH 5.2-6.0), then the color of the inflorescences will be as bright as possible.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways in which the garden hydrangea propagates. Planting it is possible with:

growing from seeds:
cuttings;
dividing the bush.

In the first method of planting, seeds are sown on the surface of heated fertile soil without embedding. Using a spray gun, irrigate and lightly sprinkle sand. This usually happens in May. Sprouts can be expected in 3-4 weeks.

A macrophile grown from seeds will delight with its flowering only in the third year. Therefore, most connoisseurs of this flower propagate it by cuttings. You can prepare the material yourself by cutting off the top of the lateral shoot with 2-3 pairs of leaves from your favorite bush. After removing the two lower leaves below the node, a cut is made at an angle of 45 °, which is processed with a root growth stimulator ("Kornevin" and the like). The top cut should be straight, the remaining leaves are cut in half.

The cuttings are then rooted in containers in prepared soil (part of coarse sand and 2 parts of peat) to a depth of 3 cm. Distance between cuttings - 5 cm... The seedlings are lightly sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with foil. Future bushes should be in a shaded place at a temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius during the day and up to 15-18 degrees at night. As soon as the length of the grown roots reaches 2 cm, the plant can be planted in separate pots. For the winter they are taken to the basement, buried in the ground so as not to freeze, and stored at temperatures up to 5 degrees Celsius.

In the spring, with the first signs of growth, they begin to water the seedlings, gradually warming them up in the sun, and then they are planted in their permanent "place of residence." The procedure for harvesting cuttings begins in late spring or summer. Hydrangea will bloom in a year... You can buy ready-made overwintered material. Seedlings of four-year-old plants are capable of blooming in the year of planting.

It is better to propagate hydrangeas by dividing the bush in the spring, even before the buds bloom: such bushes have time to take root by autumn and get stronger by winter. The excavated mother plant is carefully divided into “delenki”, making sure that each of them has a growth bud. The roots and shoots are slightly shortened and planted at a distance of a meter from each other. The hole for the bushes is made with a diameter of 50-60 cm.

For heavy soils, drainage must be done; small pebbles, expanded clay are suitable. The hole is half filled with prepared soil. "Delenki" are planted without sprinkling the root collar. Then the soil is tamped, watered abundantly and mulched with peat.

Note: when planting, hydrangea should be "fed" with nutrients. 1 tbsp is added to each well. l. urea, 2 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate, 200-250 gr. bone meal.

Hydrangea care

Macrophila is a rather unpretentious shrub. However, a number of measures are required for its normal development and dignified appearance. These procedures include:

watering;
top dressing;
pruning.

For a shrub that loves moisture, an excess of it is nevertheless harmful. Therefore, it is normal to spend up to one and a half buckets of water under the root of each plant once a week when watering. In a drought, watering is increased... Water should be soft, it is good to use settled or rainwater. It should be remembered about timely loosening around the plant for aeration (depth - 7-10 cm).

Before budding, the hydrangea is fed with potassium sulfate (30 g per bucket of water) and superphosphate (50 g) or a complex mineral fertilizer (for example, "Lux"). Before wintering, it is also fertilized with a complex of minerals without nitrogen content.

Experienced gardeners have learned how to correct the color of the inflorescences. It directly depends on the acidity of the soil. You can enhance the acidity of the soil and achieve blue and blue shades of flowers with alum (it contains heptahydrate of aluminum and potassium salts) at the rate of 3-5 pieces per liter of water. Light alkalization of the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate, on the contrary, will give a pink hydrangea palette.

To speed up the flowering of the bush by 2-4 weeks, use an aqueous solution of gibberelin. Spraying is carried out 2 times, the interval is a week, the concentration of the solution is 50 mg / l.

Hydrangeas need pruning as a beauty and wellness treatment. To form the crown, the shoots are shortened to a strong bud, the roots are mulched. In September, weak branches are cut so that the rest of the shoots accumulate strength by the spring. Overwintered frozen branches are pruned in early spring to healthy wood. In July, strong branches are shortened to lower growths.

In subsequent years, they monitor the timely disposal of the bush from dried and old branches. In varieties that bloom on last year's shoots, it is recommended to remove already faded shoots with 4 leaves in mid-summer - by August, flower buds will still form on them. With proper pruning for 5 years, a perennial will give up to 30 inflorescences.

Preparing for winter

With the end of leaf fall, the macrophile is prepared for wintering. Small bushes are tied with a cone, the tall shoots are divided into 2 parts and bent to the ground, fixing them with wire. Peat, small bark, spruce branches are added to the base of the bushes and under the branches.

To insulate the shoots, you can use agrofibre, straw mats or other non-woven material. The structure is covered with foil and tied. The plant rests until spring, with the end of the frost it can be "unpacked".

Diseases and pests

Macrophila is resistant to fungal diseases.

Its main enemies are white rot that infects roots, gray rot and powdery mildew. The presence of white rot is detected by the uncharacteristic brown color of the stems and leaves of the plant. Gray fluffy bloom, watery stems indicate gray rot. Powdery mildew appears as oily, dark spots on the leaves. They fight rot with fungicidal preparations (Fitosporin, Fundazol). Hydrangea is saved from powdery mildew by treatment with a soap-copper solution (15 g of copper sulfate, 150 g of soap per bucket of water).

Of the pests, the greatest damage is caused by snails, which with great pleasure serve young shoots, leaves and buds. Gluttonous snails should be treated with insecticides(for example, the drug "Thunderstorm"), poured into containers and placed near the bushes. With a spider mite (the leaves turn yellow, a peculiar marble-colored pattern appears on them) an ordinary soap solution copes well.

With proper care and proper care of the hydrangea, the plant will surely thank the gardener with the captivating splendor and richness of the colors of its flowers.

Due to the lush colorful inflorescences, as well as the relative simplicity of care, hydrangea is highly valued by florists around the world. Shrub varieties of this plant look extremely attractive in landscape design, decorating gardens, parks, alleys and flower beds. In turn, indoor hydrangea harmoniously complements the interior decoration of houses and apartments; it is often used in wedding decor. These flowers can be grown both outdoors and on a windowsill or balcony - in any case, their elegant sophistication will delight others throughout the warm season.

Flower features

In the botanical classification, Hortensiae are a separate family of the Tsvetkov genus. Most of them are perennial shrubs and trees up to 3 meters high, but there are also vines that can twist up to 30 meters in length. The species that grow in the subtropics can be evergreen, but the main part belongs to the deciduous group.

Hydrangea bloom lasts 5-6 months - from late spring to late autumn. A lot of spherical, paniculate or shield-shaped inflorescences appear on the bush. Most species are characterized by a creamy white color of the petals, but depending on the type of plant and the chemical composition of the soil, options from rich blue, purple, crimson tones to gentle bluish-pink and pastel-yellow overflows are possible. The palette of these flowers seems to reflect all the colors of the sky, which can be observed before sunrise on a clear day.

Types of hydrangea

Despite the fact that the homeland of wild-growing hydrangea is subtropical Japan, as a result of selection it was able to adapt to the more severe climate of Central European latitudes. Currently, there are more than a hundred cultivated varieties of this plant. Among them there are several species that tolerate frosts well: tree hydrangea, petiolate, paniculate, large-leaved. The latter is most often grown indoors, in greenhouses, winter gardens.

It is a fairly large bush with a height of 1.5-3 m, with a crown diameter of up to 2-2.5 m.This species attracts everyone's attention with luxurious spherical or pyramidal inflorescences of white, cream, pinkish-lilac, bright blue against a background of heart-shaped dark -green leaves with a jagged edge. In favorable conditions, many varieties of tree hydrangea grow for 10-15 years, but their branches should be regularly pruned, and the soil should be fed with fertilizers.

It belongs to vines, so it is ideal for vertical gardening. Weaving shoots fill any space, be it the supports of the gazebo or verandas, fences, arches and other similar structures. The petiole species is characterized by a large number of white paniculate or umbrella-shaped inflorescences. The height of the vines can be up to 10-15 m.

It is notable for its fluffy pyramidal inflorescences, reminiscent of lilacs. Their length can range from 20 to 35 cm. These are mainly white and pink varieties, the main advantage of which is abundant flowering. The stems of such a hydrangea are relatively low - up to 80 cm, so it is usually grown in flower beds.

The brightest and most colorful group of all. Saturated violet, purple, cornflower blue, light green-yellow shades often mix with each other even on one inflorescence-ball, not to mention the neighborhood of several multi-colored bushes. There are also smaller, indoor varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Their main advantage is compactness, while inflorescences are absolutely not inferior in decorativeness to garden predecessors.

Planting (reproduction) hydrangea

There are several ways to propagate hydrangeas - cuttings, dividing the bush and layering. If there was no such plant on the site before, you will need to buy ready-made seedlings. It is best to start in the spring so that the flower has time to take root well in the first year, without the threat of frost.

A hole of 30x30x30 cm is prepared for the seedling, it is covered with a mixture of turf soil, peat and sand, followed by mineral fertilizers. If necessary, dry root tips can be shortened slightly. It is not necessary to cover the root collar with earth. After planting, the young plant needs moderate but regular watering.

Cutting is only suitable for large-leaved hydrangea, as it is the most compact. For this purpose, in the fall (October-early November), the parent bush is transplanted from the street into a pot and left in a cold place (from 0 to + 2C). From January, the temperature around the plant should rise to + 10C. In February, cuttings ripen on the shoots, from which the lower leaves are removed, the cut site is treated with a growth stimulator and planted with this side in a nutritious soil mixture, covered with a jar or bottle on top to create a greenhouse effect. After rooting, the cutting can be transferred to a permanent place.

Young annual shoots are rooted by layering, dropping them into the ground in the fall without separating from the bush. Above, you need to leave a top with a length of at least 20 cm. After 5-6 months, the process is cut off from the mother plant and transplanted.

The division of the bush is also done in spring or autumn, and each part must have strong roots. The sowing method of reproduction is rarely used, mainly breeders are engaged in this. It will take 2 years to grow a hydrangea from seed to a seedling.

How to care for hydrangea?

Being a perennial shrub, hydrangea tolerates weather changes well, is resistant to pests and diseases. Even after a little freezing, its vegetative system quickly recovers. Of course, like most cultivated plants, hydrangeas require timely careful care. Many varieties should be covered with mulch for the winter or dug up and stored in the basement. But in the end, the hydrangea generously repays for the attention rendered with truly royal beauty and record-breaking long flowering.

Lighting

In order for the hydrangea to develop normally, it is necessary to provide good lighting in the morning and evening hours. At the same time, the bush should be protected from the scorching dining sun by the shadow falling from the tree, hedge or the corners of the building. In open areas, it is advisable to choose the east or west side.

Watering

The official name of hydrangea - Hydrangea - indicates the moisture-loving nature of this plant. This means that the ground underneath it should always remain moist, but not too much. For irrigation, settled or filtered water at room temperature, always without lime admixture, is suitable. In hot weather, or if there is dry air in a room with a flower, it should be humidified by spraying water from a spray bottle.

Fertilizers

Fertilizing hydrangeas with minerals is carried out only in summer, during flowering, and ends in mid-August. For this purpose, mix 40 g of superphosphate + 30 g each of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate, dissolve the powder in a bucket of water and water the ornamental plant twice a week.

Pruning

Depending on the method of forming future flowers, hydrangeas are divided into two groups. The first includes almost all large-leaved varieties, petiolate (climbing), oakleaf and prickly. They have flower buds forming at the ends of last year's branches. For this reason, pruning is desirable in the spring, when both new buds and dry, dead parts are clearly visible, which should be removed.

The second category is treelike and panicle hydrangeas. In this case, the laying of future flowers occurs on new branches, and all last year's just need to be cut off, leaving only one pair of buds. This procedure will contribute to the rejuvenation of the plant and the appearance of large, beautiful inflorescences. The right time for a "haircut" is late February - early March.

Although many varieties of hydrangea have their own specific color, its intensity, as well as the unique play of colors, largely depends on the acid-base balance of the soil under a particular plant. The introduction of certain elements into the soil makes it possible to adjust the shades.

Under the influence of an acidic environment, the petals turn purple-blue, alkali gives them a reddish-pink tone, and the neutral base gives them a pastel cream or beige.

To obtain a blue color, experienced gardeners water the hydrangea with a solution of aluminum sulfate (15 g / l). Additionally, high-moor peat, spruce and pine mulch are introduced. For a houseplant, you can purchase a ready-made acidic substrate (for conifers and rhododendrons).

To add brightness to the pink, lime, chalk, dolomite flour are mixed into the ground. When growing indoor hydrangea in the color of dawn, it is best to choose a universal peat mixture without any fillers.

Hydrangea is a bright, voluminous and delicate plant that can be settled in the house or planted on the site. She is quite unpretentious in care, and following simple tricks will give her an incredible color. More photos and interesting solutions for a country house - in our photo selection. Happy viewing!

Hydrangea, blooming with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Nursing and growing homemade varieties is, of course, different from growing hydrangeas in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas in the room.

A beauty loving water

The Latin name for hydrangea - hydrangea - literally translates as "a vessel with water". This name was given to this plant for a reason: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves for the winter and retires.

Main characteristics of hydrangea:

there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrub;
some species are frost-resistant;
garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and lianas even up to thirty;
hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, they use large-leaved hydrangea, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can grow up to 1.5 meters in size. New indoor cultivars usually range in height from 50 to 100 cm.

hydrangea leaves serrated, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10-15 cm in length. In autumn they turn red and fall off by winter;
inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be monochromatic, of different color or change as it develops and depending on the acidity of the soil;
small petals are located inside the sepals;
flowers can be sterile or fruiting. The seeds are very small;
the shape of the flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
sepals of different types and varieties have a varied shape, can be double;
hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
The number of inflorescences on hydrangeas increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will certainly delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, and the color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color from the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of an ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on dried, extra shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been bred, in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both the past and this year. These are called remontant.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species grow in Russia in the Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate intense heat, therefore it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of hydrangea paniculate and tree-like are used for medicinal purposes and make various medicinal preparations from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's consider a few of the most popular ones, dividing them by color categories.

Light

Sister Teresa (Soeur Therese):

diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint by the end of flowering change color to greenish-pink;
blooms until September on the shoots of last year;
dense, spreading shrub.

Mme E. Mouillere:

diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then take on light pink or light blue hues;
blooms profusely on the shoots of the past and this year until October;
the leaves are narrower than those of other varieties.

Blue

Early Blue:

diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
blue inflorescences with blue-violet hues initially have a greenish coloration;
blooms profusely until October on the shoots of the previous and current year;
has a strong root system and a compact bush.

Nikko Blue:

diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
inflorescences are bright blue, to maintain color, an acid reaction of the soil is needed at 5.5-7.0 pH;
abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
fast-growing, medium-sized shrub.

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
inflorescences are pink-crimson with a white edging, which turns green over time;
compact bush.

Miss Saori:

diameter of inflorescences 18 cm;
inflorescences are dull white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
dark green foliage has a purple tint.

You & me Love:

stem height 100 cm;
blooms continuously from May to September;
in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in sour, with a high aluminum content - in blue;
leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
frost resistance -29 o C.

Red

Admiration:

diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
flowers are bright red;
abundant flowering in October on the shoots of the last year;
the bush has a dense crown.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
profuse flowering until October on last year's shoots;
compact bush.

Hot Red:

diameter of inflorescences 15 cm;
red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
blooms until October on last year's shoots;
lush bush, does not lie down from massive inflorescences.

Schloss Wackerbarth:

diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
inflorescences are pink with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
flowering on the shoots of the last year until October-early November;
flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety.

Often beginners are looking for a variety of "hydrangea mix". You should know that there is no such variety, this phrase means multi-colored hydrangeas in the composition or in the assortment of the store.

Grown houses in a hydrangea pot in the photo

The hydrangea plant is named after a princess of the Roman Empire named Hydrangea.
Archaeological excavations in the northern regions of America have shown that hydrangea grew 40 thousand years ago. Large-leaved hydrangea can be successfully grown both in the garden and on the home windowsill. since they found out about this plant after the first French round-the-world expedition There are about 80 species and a huge number of varieties and hybrids of hydrangea The owner of this hydrangea is a clear original

Hydrangea care at home

From too bright sunny color, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, it should be placed on the east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from the window, especially from the southern one. For flowering, diffused light hydrangea is enough.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

The hydrangea thrives best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then regularly ventilate the room, and at high temperatures place it on the northern windows.

Try to take the hydrangea out into the fresh air as often as possible.

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, like drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

it is necessary to spray the hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry hot weather;
in the heat, be sure to place vessels with water next to it;
a good humidification option: put the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition for growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as the plant is badly affected by excess lime. To do this, you can boil tap water, wait for the sediment to accumulate at the bottom, and drain the clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use coniferous litter or chopped pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

coniferous litter;
chopped pine bark;
coniferous sawdust;
high-moor peat;
sphagnum moss.

In the fall, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only in order not to dry out the earthy clod and plant roots. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water, it needs good drainage.

It is necessary to acidify the soil once or twice a month during watering. You can use lemon juice, citric acid for this.

juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
citric acid consumption: powder at the tip of a knife per liter of water.

It is necessary to feed the hydrangea from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Dissolve granular nitrogen fertilizers in warm water and water the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

For spraying, it is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia), this will also be an additional prevention of pests. They can also water the plant. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of acidity and alkalinity of the soil change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, then there are special feeding for this.

You can use other methods: adding aluminum sulfate or a little liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, necessarily controlling the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral, if the value is lower, the soil is acidic, with a higher value, the soil is alkaline.

acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content maintains blue, blue and purple shades of inflorescences;
neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6-7) maintains light, white colors;
more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content gives pink and red color.

The optimum acidity for hydrangeas is in the range of 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate strongly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a strongly alkaline reaction of the soil, the hydrangea cannot absorb iron, it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
strongly alkaline: pH 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by coniferous litter, pine bark, high moor peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity supports the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after depositing funds. If it "falls short" of the desired value, the application should be repeated.

Inflorescences of red color can be "repainted" in lilac and purple shades, change the pink color to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.

When using such products, make sure that they do not get on the leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

To change the pink color to blue, red to purple-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
We change the blue color to pink, stopping feeding with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly dig into the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7–8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). 1-2 times a month when watering, add potassium permanganate to the water: 5-7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect instant changes. The color can only begin to change from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: Do's and Don'ts

If the variety is growing slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the growth of hydrangea is fast, then you will have to prune more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so you cannot cut them off. You can cut off shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting), or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea gives an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers, they stand in the water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give life to new plants.

Faded inflorescences are cut as they dry above the uppermost bud.

Hydrangea pruning principles:

if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be cut;
old, thickened and small shoots are cut off on hydrangeas;
shoots for thinning are cut in the spring, and sick and dry shoots can be cut off in the fall;
do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

How to prune a hydrangea:

Select dry, excess or too small shoots and trim them with sharp, sterile scissors or pruning shears.
Treat the slices with turmeric, herbs or activated charcoal powder.
You can water the hydrangea one day after pruning, when the cuts are a little dry.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4–5 branches are left on each trunk.

Dormant period

At the beginning of the leaf fall, so that the roots do not rot, watering the hydrangea is reduced. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet commercial soil when you first open the package.

After dropping hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure the temperature is less than 10 ° C.

The hydrangea winters best at a temperature of + 5–8 o C. Therefore, the best option is to take the plant pot to a dry basement. We must not forget to water the ground a little at this time in order to prevent the death of the root system.

If you don't have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She does not need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, the hydrangea should be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Season	Lighting	Watering	Temperature	Humidity	Top dressing	Acidity
Spring Summer	Diffused light	Abundant, the soil should always be moist	+ 17-22 ° С	50-60%, spraying in the morning with warm soft water	2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas, azaleas, or for flowering plants	Acidify water when watering 1-2 times a month: 5 drops of lemon juice or citric acid on the tip of a knife for 1 liter of water
Autumn. Shedding leaves	Diffused light	Moderate, shrinks towards winter	+ 9-12 ° С	Not less than 50%	Do not fertilize	Acidify water 1-2 times a month
Winter. Rest time	Can be kept without light	Very moderate, so as not to dry out the soil and roots	+ 5-8 ° С	Low	Do not fertilize	Watering with water without acid

Diseases and Treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakening of immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases, and be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangeas:

if the hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, then powdery mildew may form on the plant (fungal disease);
in very dry and hot weather (more than + 27 ° C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
in extreme heat (more than +30 ° C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
on alkaline soils (excess lime, an indicator of more than 8 pH), hydrangea forms chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves;
with insufficient air and soil moisture, the hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, the roots can dry out;
with poor drainage and abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, as a result fungal diseases are formed.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solution

Problem	Cause	Solution
Flowers and shoots wither	Roots are poured or gnawing pests have appeared in the soil	In the absence of drainage, an urgent plant transplant with soil replacement is needed: Check roots and prune rotten roots if necessary. Treat with Fitosporin or another fungicide. Dry the roots without watering for several days. Then water as usual. If the hydrangea was not poured, check the soil for the presence of pests (they are clearly visible in the soil after watering). Treat the soil with Thunder-2.
The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The leaf itself is yellow, the veins are green, then it dries	Chlorosis - from excess lime in the soil, too bright light and lack of iron in the soil.	Move the plant to diffused light, you can even remove it from the windowsill. Measure the acidity of the soil, if the indicator is higher than 8 Ph, you need to replace it. Do not water the hydrangea with hard water and excess lime. Feed the plant with iron chelate: dissolve 4 grams of ferrous sulfate in a liter of filtered (or distilled) warm water, add 2.5 grams of citric acid
Leaves dry around the edges	Lack of moisture	Provide timely watering, spray the plant in the morning with warm boiled water without sediment
Spots appear on the leaves. Whitish bloom on the leaves, then holes form in the place of spots and plaque	Fungal or bacterial disease. Whitish bloom - powdery mildew	Treat with a fungicide (for example, Numberflor + Fitolavin) in three steps every other week. Check if the conditions of detention correspond to the necessary standards: temperature, humidity, watering, lighting. Feed with complex fertilizer
Hydrangea does not bloom	The plant did not observe the winter dormancy period. Too high temperature	Place the hydrangea in the coolest and most sunny place. Spray with the addition of an immunostimulant (Epin, Zircon) and feed with fertilizer with phosphorus: 2g Superphosphate per 1 liter of water. Epin for 1 liter is enough for 7-8 drops
Hydrangea does not bloom	Root container too large	Transplant into a smaller pot that matches the size of the root system
The trunk began to blacken below	Black leg - rot from stagnant water + low temperatures	Cut healthy cuttings and root to preserve the variety. Check the root system and soil. If there are healthy roots, then the plant can be saved. Remove anything that is blackened and rotten and replace the soil. Treat the plant, especially the roots, with Fitosporin (paste) and an immunostimulant. For 1 liter of water, a paste on the tip of a teaspoon and 7-8 drops of a stimulant. Spray leaves and shoots with nitrogen fertilization + Fitosporin + green soap: half a teaspoon of ammonia + paste on the tip of a teaspoon + a teaspoon of green soap in 1 liter of water. Treat additionally with Metronidazole (Trichopol), alternating between means: 1 tablet per liter of water. Carry out treatments 2 times a week.
Shoots dry up and break	Overdried root system	To soak an earthen ball, spill the earth in several steps. Trim dry runners. Keep the soil dry and spray the plant. Do not drain the water from the pallet, pour gravel, expanded clay or large perlite into it and add water when it dries.
Growths on the leaves, white "fluff", cobwebs	The presence of pests: growths - scabbard; white "fluff" - mealybug; cobwebs - mite	Treat with a comprehensive pest control. Scabbards and scale insects must first be cleaned off, then spray the plant with a preparation
Leaves in holes, flower buds wither and fall off, leaves and shoots wither	Pests: weevil, aphid	Treat with pest control. For example, Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin
On the leaves, passages from microworms are visible.	The soil is infested with nematodes	Treat the soil and leaves with Nematophagin. It is advisable to replace the soil (after transplanting, treat it for prevention two or three times)
Circular or multi-colored spots on the leaves. Leaves dry out and deform	Viral disease	Insects carry viruses. Check the flower for their presence, remove the affected parts of the plant. Treat the soil and the plant for two months 2 times a week with the following composition: Phytolavin on the tip of a teaspoon + 8 drops of Epin + one dose of ExtraFlorN1 + Boric acid on the tip of a knife for 1 liter of water. First, dilute boric acid - it is diluted only in water with a temperature of more than 40 ° C. This complex is antiviral, against pests, fungicidal and immunostimulating. The plant must be kept in quarantine separately from others, in the absence of signs of cure it will have to be destroyed, the soil is thrown away, and the pot is treated with boiling water

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-agent based on beneficial bacteria to the soil when watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: soil selection, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in all types of soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, sour and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: sod land 2 parts, coniferous litter 1 part, peat 1 part, chopped pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in the swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1–2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots have completely filled the space, then repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Hydrangea roots grow shallow, but densely.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

new pot;
land;
drainage;
mulch: coniferous litter, chopped coniferous bark, coniferous sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until a slightly pink color (for watering);
spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).

Landing rules:

When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
The root collar can be deepened by 2-3 cm;
The soil is not dried out during transplantation, part of the land remains on the roots;
After planting, the earth must be tamped so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
When planting, the roots should be spread down and not bend;
After transplanting, some of the leaves may fall off the hydrangea - this is normal.

Planting stages

We take out the plant from the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.

We shake off excess soil from the roots and examine them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.

We pour drainage and a little earth on the bottom of the pot, put a hydrangea in the center and cover the roots with earth 2-3 cm above the root collar.
We tamp the earth, if necessary, fill up the soil and spill it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.
Lay a 1-1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing a potted hydrangea

Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing a bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is grafting. Hydrangea propagated in this way blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings occurs easily both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For grafting you need to prepare:

sterile secateurs;
the drug Kornevin;
planting substrate (clean sand or infertile soil);
small low pot;
shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
a spray bottle with warm water;
turmeric or charcoal powder for processing slices.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step process of grafting:

Cut off the selected green stalk.
We make a cut under the lower kidney.
We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud.
Cut off the excess lower leaves.
Cut the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation
We dip the lower cut into Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting slightly at an angle into a dry substrate by 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil and each other.
We moisten the substrate abundantly from a spray bottle with warm water.
Powder the slices with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and put them in a shady, cool place for a month.

it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
the optimum temperature for rooting is + 18–25 o С;
a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
for winter, cuttings are prepared for rest, like ordinary hydrangeas;
in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June 1 time per week;
in May of the following year, after planting, the cutting can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea by cuttings

Water rooting option

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to the water at the tip of a knife. You can add Methylene Blue (available from pet store aquariums). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to tint the water a little with it to a blue tint.

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the cutting in water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

The roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To split a bush:

we get the hydrangea out of the pot;
shake off excess soil;
we check the roots, cut off the dried ones if necessary.
we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
we plant delenki according to the usual scheme.

Seed propagation

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus;
You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination into the water, with which you will moisten the soil from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7–8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

Sow seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
Sprinkle a little (!) With sand on top. Moisten with a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
We put it in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 o C). But not in direct sunlight!
We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be planted again.

Small sprouts need to be fed with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium 2 times a month (watered or sprayed).

The composition of the fertilizer: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for hydrangea is quite difficult, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea in either the size or the brightness of the inflorescences.