Do-it-yourself door installation. How to properly install an interior door

Technological progress has replaced the once cumbersome entry gates used by our ancestors with convenient, practical doors. The need to constantly move stones and other heavy objects back and forth many times during the day in order to block the opening and protect it from the weather disappeared with the invention of canopies.

Modern doors tend to be installed for decades. How to assemble and install them correctly is an important question after all the parts are bought and laid out on the floor!

The order of work for the home master

The door is not just a plank blocking the entry hole. It is also not an archaic design. Nevertheless, after assembly and installation, it must meet a number of requirements:

Open - close without significant effort, creak and rattle;
Do not fall apart when slammed after nervous breakdowns;
Do not open on its own;
Not to be so thin, fragile that even a child will pierce it with a pen when he decides to draw on it.

We fasten the canvas to the canopies. Let's see what happened. We check the absence of distortions in the gaps. We glue the entire installed structure around the perimeter with construction tape.

We foam the free cavities between the wall and the box in several passes, first in several places (at 4-6 points of the internal gaps of the structure) we place pieces of cardboard so that the door does not jam and it can open freely.

We are waiting for complete drying, we do nothing more yet. We do not open, we do not check.

We upholster platbands along the contour of the door, hiding unaesthetic seams.

Thus, an interior door was installed with their own hands. Gained experience that can now be used to refine other doorways.

Photo of the process of installing interior doors with your own hands

Repairs in the house will have an unfinished look without the installation of such an interior element as doors. They protect the living space from external negative factors, contribute to heat and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Ordinary, at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
Preparation of the opening for the installation of a new door.
Installation of hinges and lock on the door leaf.
Assembly of the door frame.
Installation of additional elements.
Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
Connecting the door leaf to the frame.
Fixing the structure with mounting foam.
Fastening fittings and platbands.

To perform the work you will need a certain tool:

hammer;
chisels 16 and 20 mm;
roulette;
crowbar;
level;
screwdriver and screwdriver;
wood saw with fine teeth;
miter box;
drill and perforator;
if possible, a milling machine, circular.

Materials for door installation:

door leaf and door frame;
door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
mounting foam;
wedges;
nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before you install the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there is an old door, then we will dismantle it. To do this, with the help of a crowbar, avoiding strong and abrupt movements, we first remove the trim. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame, to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses, the door frame was cemented. And to take it out, you have to break the cement with a hammer.

To facilitate the installation of the door, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. At the end of the preparation, we clean the doorway from construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, then you can immediately start measuring it.

Taking measurements, choosing, buying

To purchase the desired door, you will need dimensions in height and width, as well as the dimensions of the slopes of the doorway. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and choose the smallest size.

We lay the floor covering for the correct installation of the box

Important! When taking measurements, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. The installation of doors is recommended to be done after laying the floor covering, if there is none yet, then the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door should be included in the dimensions. For a more visual measurement, you can put parts of the floor covering in the doorway. This is necessary in order to know the exact level of the floor, the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and puttied, you can order doors. As a rule, doors have standard sizes, but if necessary, you can make an individual order based on the size of the doorway.

To choose the right doors, you need to know their types and purpose. For installation in the house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - this is strapping and internal filling. The power structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and the internal space is filled.

There are several designs of doors - solid, paneled and smooth.

smooth doors, they are also panel doors, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and method of sheathing. The most practical and affordable are the doors sheathed with laminate. Painted doors can be both cheap and expensive. It all depends on the type of material and the method of painting. The most expensive are doors lined with natural veneer.

Paneled doors are distinguished by their open construction and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from a solid array of precious woods or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most affordable are made from soft woods, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from precious woods. This affects primarily their price and weight, they are very high. The doors are covered with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the desired doors and received them, we proceed to the phased installation of the doors.

After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, platbands, door frame, extensions, fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not embedded, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparation of places for fastening the lock and hinges

Installing the door leaf on the floor for easy cutting with a cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, mark and select with a cutter or chisel the place for attaching the hinges and the lock on the door leaf and vertical rack. To do this, we install the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special stands. In order not to damage the canvas, the inside of the coasters is upholstered with fabric. We attach the lock and mark the place of its installation with a pencil. To make it convenient to use the lock, we install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, we measure 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door. We attach the loops and outline the place for milling. Using a hand cutter or chisel, we select the excess so that the hinges and the lock lie flush. We put them back and drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place where the hinges are attached and the place for the tongue of the lock and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. Attach hinges and drill holes for self-tapping screws.

Important! Places for a lock and loops after sampling with a cutter or chisel must be varnished. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and two hinges will be enough for interior doors.

Hinge and lock installation

When the places for the lock and hinges are selected by the cutter, you can proceed with their installation.

With loops, things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

mortise lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to become correct, it is applied to the side of the door and, as a stencil, holes for handles, valves and fasteners are marked. Using a cutter or chisel, we select a place for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and fasten it.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door bar. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

Starting to collect the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical racks and cut them with a miter box. Horizontal bars are made to the size of the door leaf.

Since the collection of the box requires a large free space, the collection process itself is carried out on the floor. In order not to accidentally damage the door frame on the floor, we lay two or three wooden slats under the racks for the entire length of the door leaf.

We attach the horizontal crossbar to the racks. The joints can be lightly tapped with a hammer for a better connection, and with the help of a screwdriver we fix the box, screwing the screws into the corner joints.

Important! There are doors with a ready-assembled door frame. The installation of these doors is very simple. In this case, the door frame is simply fitted into the doorway and fixed in it.

Fastening of additional parts

In the event that the width of the door is several centimeters less than the door slope, extensions should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make slopes, and over time chips and dirt appear on them. Therefore, the installation of extensions in such cases is the best way out of the situation.

As extensions, strips of the same color as the door are used, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges matching the edges of the wall.

Installation of the add-on is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical slats of the extension along the height of the box, as well as the horizontal slat of the extension. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then we install the trim strips in the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks to the slope with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door frame in the opening

Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We put the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each rack and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination with light strokes on the wedges. Now you can fix the box. To do this, we drill holes in the rack and wall with a drill or puncher. It remains to put the dowels and fasten the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! Wedges are best made from wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging door leaf

After installing the box, we proceed to hanging the door. First of all, we fasten the loops to the previously prepared places. For this, the so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in the hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece hinges, but they are used less frequently. In the case of a hinged rod, the door leaf can be installed or removed by just gently lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow lifting the doors, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply fix them on the box, and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable rod, you must remove the rod from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors in the air, and the second fixes the one-piece hinges with self-tapping screws or directs them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with mounting foam, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all the small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and easy to apply to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, the door frame should be protected from foam accidentally falling on it. To protect the box, it is pasted over with a film or masking tape. If, nevertheless, the foam has got on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and scuffs.

Mounting foam has the ability to increase in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between the vertical posts or thick cardboard is laid between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Shake the bottle thoroughly for at least one minute before filling with foam. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and the outside of the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

For reinsurance against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply mounting foam in two stages. For the first run, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours, you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess mounting foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! In the case when the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the foam spray tube can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, fill all voids with high quality.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we lay the free space with a suitable material (wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create a support for itself. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of platbands and door fittings

At the final stage of the door installation, the platbands are installed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same trimming at 45 degrees for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can fix the platband with small nails or universal mounting glue.

Applying glue to the trim

Installing a trim on a door frame

The ability to handle carpentry and measuring tools is already a reason to try to solve such a difficult task as installing interior doors with your own hands. The work is simple, but tricky in its own way. It will take scrupulousness, and even tediousness in marking and adjustment, otherwise it will not work to install the interior door with the box correctly.

Features of installing interior doors

At first glance, nothing complicated, but this is only a superficial impression. We are talking about not just installing the frame and the door leaf in the interior opening, but doing it beautifully, without distortions, scratches and sagging hinges. If this is the first experience, then it is best to make detailed step-by-step instructions for installing interior doors with your own hands before starting work. It's not embarrassing for newbies. Even experienced craftsmen often make notes with their own hands - what not to forget and what to look for when installing a door frame on a specific interior partition.

During the installation process, you will need to solve the two most difficult tasks with your own hands:

Correctly assemble and install the frame of interior doors, align and fix it so that the frame does not sag under the weight of the door leaf;
With your own hands, mark and cut out the mounting grooves on the vertical rack of the box and on the end of the interior door leaf.

An experienced craftsman takes 2-3 hours to install an interior door, a beginner will need at least a day to fully install the frame and hang the door leaf.

Advice! It is not necessary to stupidly follow the instructions for installing interior doors, which recommend consistently inserting lock fittings, attaching hinges, and only at the very end to solve problems with hanging interior doors. The main thing is to install the box and the door leaf with a fresh head with your own hands, and the platbands, locks and handles with platbands can be postponed for the next day.

You will have to measure and cut a lot. All cuts are made by hand with a manual hacksaw, therefore, in addition to fresh forces, you will need to stock up on high-quality tools.

Tools for installing interior doors

A day or two before the start of work, it will be necessary to assemble a working arsenal for working with lumber. It can be collected from friends or rented. Why two days before installation? Because ahead of time before the start of work, you will need to check with your own hands the serviceability and performance of each tool:

Building levels - small, 70-100 cm, and large, 150 - 200 cm, with a working bubble indicator. Usually, they do not pay attention to the condition of the camera and the beacon, considering them to be in good condition, but at the box office, it happens that there are bent and even broken specimens, this is the most important tool in installing interior doors;
Marking tool - a carpentry corner with a ruler, a tape measure and a meter metal ruler. We check the presence of marks of angles of 90 o and 45 o;
Screwdriver or electric drill with a bit nozzle for cross heads of self-tapping screws. We check with our own hands how the cartridge holds, and the serviceability of the wiring - batteries;
A cutting tool, you can cut the timber of interior doors with an electric jigsaw, but it is best to stock up on a pair of hacksaws - carpentry and metal. The first is used for cutting the details of the box, the second is used for thin cutting of the platbands.

In addition to the tool, you will need a hammer, a clamp, a carpenter's chisel, mounting foam in a can, adhesive tape and gloves. There is little dust and waste when installing interior doors, but you still have to periodically clean it with your own hands so as not to spread it throughout the apartment.

In addition, it would be right to have a puncher with a spatula-bayonet in stock, because when installing the interior door frame, there may be problems with the doorway in the wall. Ideally, the gap between the racks of the box and the ends of the opening should remain 10-20 mm, for normal alignment and foaming of the cracks. In reality, the opening may be uneven, and you will need to use your own hands, a perforator or a hammer with a chisel, to knock down part of the concrete or stone.

How to assemble an interior door frame

The best option would be to buy a ready-made door kit, which usually includes:

In this case, the entire process of mounting the interior frame box comes down to transferring the second parts of the hinges to the frame parts with your own hands, assembling the loot with self-tapping screws and installing it in the opening.

The entire job will take less than two hours. One of the options for installing interior doors with your own hands on video

The only drawback of the above scheme is that not all manufacturers of modern models of interior doors produce their products in kits designed for do-it-yourself installation. Most often, the customer buys a door leaf, and platbands and frame parts are purchased in order to install an interior door with a frame on their own.

How to install an interior door with your own hands

First of all, it is necessary to lay out the door leaf on a flat area. Next, the selected pair of beams is laid to the left and right ends of the sash. With a tape measure, we measure the width and estimated height of the future carrier frame. Then, with the help of a building level and a tape measure, the dimensions of the interior passage are checked.

Important! This is done in order to determine whether the platbands will close the edges of the gap in the wall, and how thick the additional elements should be used.

If you “miss” with the height or width of the frame, you will have to redo the trim with your own hands or, even worse, you will need to raise the interior door in height.

We assemble the frame of the door frame of arbitrary size

In order for the installation of the interior door to turn out without distortions, it is important to choose the right distance between the left and right pillars so that the door leaf enters the frame with a small gap, no more than 2 mm per side. In this case, the door will open freely without wedging in the loot.

The easiest way is to assemble the frame with your own hands using a clamp, a saw and two blanks. Vertical racks, as in the case of preparation, are attached to the ends, aligned and fixed with clamps.

From the side of the upper and lower edges of the web, an allowance equal to the thickness of the beam is left on the blanks. At the same time, a cut line is applied to the left allowance with their own hands at an angle of 45 ° for further docking with the horizontal crossbars of the frame. Without disassembling the structure, they apply markings for cutting grooves for awnings, locks and handles.

If the interior door is too wide or of a complex shape, then usually at this stage the conformity of the frame configuration with the door to the shape of the interior opening is checked. To do this, a pair of nails is hammered onto a wooden plank at a distance from each other equal to the outer width of the frame. The bar must be fixed above the opening, and a couple of construction plumb lines are hung on the nails. If the gap between the frame and the wall is 10-15 mm, then the calculation is correct.

Installing hinges on an interior door

After all checks have been completed, it is necessary to cut mounting grooves in the canvas for canopies using a chisel or a carpenter's knife and a hammer. The easiest way is to mill a niche with a manual router, but, as practice shows, you can do the work yourself and without expensive power tools.

If this operation is difficult, then overhead hinges or models for drilling can be used for interior doors. For installation, you only need to drill holes for screwing fasteners.

Fasten the frame in the doorway

We mark the level of the upper horizontal cross member of the frame with a marker on the steppe, this will help to perform the correct installation horizontally and vertically;
With the help of wedges and a building level, we align the frame vertically and horizontally with our own hands. We fix the position of the frame in the opening with wooden plugs and wedges.

Advice! If the frame and door leaf are light, then the frame can be fixed with mounting perforated petals to the wall of the interior partition.

Next, it is necessary to blow out the space between the frame and the wall with mounting foam, while installation on the PPU is being carried out, it is necessary to check again and, if necessary, finally align it vertically using a long building level. We apply a small building level to the upper mark and, if necessary, knock the frame to the desired height.

Door leaf installation

After the loot is firmly fixed with hardened foam, it is necessary to install the mating parts of the canopies. To do this, initially the door leaf is lifted with wedges so that a gap of 1-2 mm is obtained between the threshold and the lower edge.

It remains only to install the sash on the awnings, and you can proceed to the decorative trim of interior doors.

Installation of platbands on the interior door

Facing the frame with platbands is not particularly difficult. First of all, install the vertical strips of the platbands. The height of the bar is measured according to the mark made earlier, after which the casing is applied to the frame and the line is washed down at an angle of 45 °.

Advice! It is best to make an undercut with your own hands using a thin hacksaw blade for metal. Preliminarily, adhesive tape is glued to the cut line. The bar is nailed with wallpaper nails or put on glue.

In a similar way, install the second vertical platband. After the vertical parts have been installed, you can mark the cut line on the horizontal bar, and install it on the door frame in the same way.

What are the sizes of extensions for interior doors

Additional strips are used as an additional element to increase the width or thickness of the door frame. Most often, the installation of extensions on interior doors is required in a situation where the wall is much thicker than the canvas, and there is a gap between them that needs to be closed.

The width of the additional rails ranges from 10 mm to 200 mm, for interior structures, the most common size is 10-20 mm, and often, due to the non-standard profile of the slot, the extensions have to be ordered or cut out with your own hands from the trim strips.

How to install extensions on an interior door

If, after installing the box, the unpleasant fact is revealed that the vertical plane of the frame is recessed into the space of the interior opening relative to the wall surface, then the only way to correct the situation is to use additional strips.

It is first necessary to determine the size of the extension, for this the building level is applied to the wall and the distance to the front edge of the box is measured with a ruler. Thin planks are nailed with wallpaper nails, wide extensions are glued to the frame.

Professional advice on how to install interior doors

Among the features of installing home doors, the following problem areas can be noted.

Before mounting the platbands, you need to make sure that the frame or additional plank is located in the same plane with the surface of the interior wall. Otherwise, even if you make the edges washed down with your own hands perfectly, a gap will definitely appear between the platbands.

The second problem that one has to face is the sagging of the doors when installed incorrectly. To correct the situation, it is necessary to remove the canvas, put washers, or cut the edge and install the door in place.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors will require a little practice in installing canopies and extensions, but in general the work is simple, and with proper skill, the canvas can be hung in a few hours. Masters claim that with each installation, the quality of work with their own hands doubles.

We will tell you how to properly install an interior door. You will learn about the intricacies of choosing components and how you can understand the professionalism of the master. Interior doors must stand in their original packaging for at least 5 days in the room in which they will be installed.

Preparing boards for the door frame

To begin with, we will check the height and width of the opening and make sure that the doors with the frame will easily enter them.

Using a laser level, we estimate the difference in floor height on each side of the doorway. In our case, it was 2 mm, and we need to take this distance into account when making the door frame. Let's say a few words about the wizard's tool:

For a quality installation, we can not do with one hammer and chisel. We need a circular saw with a turntable. Now with its help we will trim the door frame blanks. It would be very difficult to cut a beautifully veneered blank with a conventional hacksaw. Let's start marking the door frame. With a sharp knife, mark the places for trimming the upper part.

The plate allows you to immediately take into account the gap of the door in the box. Usually it is 2-3 mm. In the arsenal of a real master, there should be such a device that allows you to keep the door in a vertical position:

We make a serif of places for loops. Usually it is 20-25 cm from the edge.

We put one of the boards of the door frame on the door and set the bottom gap. Usually it is 8-10 mm. As a rule, interior doors are assembled without thresholds. With a sharp knife, we make notches for the hinges on the board of the door frame. Mark the top edge of the board. We lay the left and right boards of the door frame together, set a slight shift of a few millimeters to compensate for the difference in floor height marked by the level.

In the places of subsequent cutting of the door frame boards, we need to carefully remove the wrapped veneer with a chisel. If this is not done, then when cutting on the machine, the board will stand up skewed and we will not be able to perform a perfect gash at 45 °. We install the board on the saw machine, and turn the saw itself for sawing at 45 °.

The chipped veneer board fits snugly against the machine at the rear. Carefully cut at 45°. Three parts of the door frame are ready:

We mark the loops. This process has one feature - the loop is installed with the logo up.

Marks for hinges on the board of the door frame are best done with a sharp knife. If you are not sure of yourself, do it with a pencil, but remember that it has a certain thickness, which can give an error. When using a knife, notches are applied at an angle towards the future sample. This will allow you to tightly and beautifully install the hinges in the future.

Another necessary tool for the master is a manual milling machine. We set the sample width to the width of the loop. The sampling depth is adjusted according to the thickness of the loop. With the help of a manual milling machine, work on making samples in the door frame board is completed in a minute.

A properly adjusted cutter will not remove anything superfluous:

During work, the master must pay attention to his extreme notches and not go beyond them. The same work done with a chisel and a hammer will not always be neat, and it will also take more time.

Since the loops have rectangular edges, we need to remove the roundness at the corners with a chisel. To do this, we will make two or three notches in the corners. So we are guaranteed to remove the excess and not touch the wood behind the sample. This work must be done carefully and slowly. It depends on it how beautiful the hinges in the door frame will look.

An important point - the loop must enter the sample with effort. It is recommended that before screwing the hinge, drill holes of a smaller diameter compared to the screws. In order not to drill through the floor, place a stop under the door frame board.

We drill holes for the second loop.

Door frame installation

Now we need to make holes for the screws with which we will fasten the door frame from the hinge side.

There is a rule here: the holes are made in the middle of the longitudinal and transverse axis, that is, for the upper loop they should be made a little lower, and for the lower loop a little higher. By this we achieve uniform fastening of the box to the doorway. The recess should be deep enough so that the twisted screw does not interfere with the installation of the hinges.

We will make potai in places where we will fasten the elements of the door frame to each other. Depending on the thickness of the bar of the box, we will make a sweat either higher or lower.

The main rule is that the sweat is performed at an angle of 90 ° with respect to the cut. In the upper element of the door frame, we sew in the center. Thus, the fastening of the door frame will be carried out on each side in three places.

We twist the wood screws into the elements of the box. Here it is important to accurately combine the parts and prevent their mutual displacement. If everything is done correctly, we will get the perfect angle. On the other hand, we will perform the same operations.

We will install the assembled box in the doorway, and so that the box does not fall, we will put a few pieces of cardboard. Set the laser level and check the verticality of the door frame from the side of the hinges.

Now we need wedges with which we will adjust the door gap and level the box. They can be made from scraps of box bars using a circular saw. First of all, we need to install wedges in places where we will fasten the door frame to the walls.

Additionally, we hammer one wedge into each of the upper corners of the box. We check the verticality of the installation with a laser level. If necessary, knock out or change the wedges.

Expose the door frame should be flush with the outer wall of the room. We carry out the fastening of the box through the made sweat in the loops.

Be sure to install wedges in places where we fasten the box. They should stay there forever. The door frame on the hinged side is fixed in two places and has three wedges. But the feigned side of the box has only one wedge on top. We will exhibit it after hanging the door. Do not forget to use the level to check the horizontal installation of the box. Since we took into account the unevenness of the floor when trimming the box bars, our level now shows the horizon.

While we are working on the door leaf, the pre-installed door frame must be partially foamed.

It takes some time for the foam to set a little before we hang the doors. First, the foam is applied in small portions from the inside of the room. The feigned part of the door frame is partially foamed, in a dashed way. This is necessary so that we have the opportunity to move the feigned part of the door frame, aligning it with the door leaf. Too much mounting foam should not be laid.

Installation of door hardware

Now the door is again placed on a special stand. We will be installing door hardware.

And again we mark the hinges, but already on the door leaf. We make marks with a sharp knife at an angle with respect to the loops. Using a milling machine, we carry out sampling under the hinges on the door leaf.

We also align the corners with a chisel. We get the perfect selection for the hinges in the door leaf. It is ideal because our loop is inserted inside with force, which means that there will be no gaps.

Consider how to properly drill holes for screws.

Drilling starts at an angle, leaning on the edge of the hinge, then the drill is set vertically, and we drill exactly in the center. This simple technique makes it easy to drill holes in the center of the hinges. We apply the markup for installing the door latch. Usually it falls in the middle of the door.

When drilling a hole for the latch, be careful not to damage the excess veneer. To do this, set the rotation of the drill counterclockwise and apply a central marking with a drill. So the drill will not jump off and tear the adjacent veneer. Then we set the drill to normal drilling mode and drill the required hole. The depth of drilling can be adjusted by a special marker that you put on the drill. The marker in this case is the usual electrical tape.

The hole is ready, and we insert the latch into it.

Please note that the diameter of the hole must exceed the internal thickness of the latch. Mark with a knife.

And again we will use the milling machine, then with a wide chisel we will sample the corners.

As usual, we will make a few notches, and then clean up the corners. Now insert the latch and fasten it with screws.

Door leaf installation

Our foam has partially set. Now it will provide us with the elastic state of the box. We install a stop under the door and twist the upper loop.

A lever may be required to set the bottom hinge well. Don't forget to put a stop under it.

When the loop has exactly entered the groove, you can screw it onto two screws. In a suspended state, the vertical installation of the doors is checked.

Let's check the operation of the door frame seal. If it squeaks, coat it with a small amount of VD-40. We proceed to the alignment of the feigned side of the door frame. When the door is hung, we can appreciate how perfect the door leaf is. And right now we have the opportunity to align the feigned part of the box with the door. As in the previous case, we align this part of the box with wedges.

Slightly hardened polyurethane foam allows you to smoothly shift the feigned part of the box in one direction or another. After finishing the alignment, mark the center of the latch on the feigned bar of the box. When choosing door latches, give preference to those that have a ledge on the counterpart. With it, you can adjust the strength of the adjoining doors.

Having made a mark, we use the milling machine again.

This time we are making a recess for the door latch.

If necessary, the rounded edges can be corrected with a chisel. We drill the attachment points of the mating part of the latch and fasten it with screws.

Now we will drill a hole in this cavity for the third fixing screw. Regardless of whether an anchor bolt or self-tapping screw is used, it will be hidden inside this cavity. It is also necessary to install an additional wedge in this place.

We twist the self-tapping screw, which will fix the feigned part of the box through the drywall to the inner bar of the load-bearing wall.

Installation of door handles

Now you can collect door handles. Tighten the inner pin on one of the handles with a hexagon.

After inserting the handle, fix it with three self-tapping screws.

Insert the handle on the other side and do the same. Let's check the operation of the handle.

Finishing the assembly of the handle, we fix the second handle with a hexagon. We put on decorative caps on each side.

Now is the time to apply the foam between the wall and the door frame on the outside of the door. Do not forget to tighten the remaining screws into the door hinges.

Installation of extensions

The foam on the inside of the doors has already dried, this will allow us to move on to the next stage of installing the doors.

We need to install extensions from the inside of the room.

We determine the distance by choosing the most protruding part of the wall. Having made measurements from above and below, we will choose the largest. If there is a rounding in the inner groove of the box, it must be carefully cut with a knife. This will allow you to put the extension in this groove quite tightly without gaps.

We perform this operation on the other side. If the foam sticks out, it must be slightly cut off.

Now a circular saw with a top table is very useful to us. Having set the emphasis to a given width, we ideally cut the extension boards. Trim off the bottom edge.

We place the dobor board, resting it on the upper groove of the door frame.

We'll do the same on the other side. And again, we cut the extension boards to the final dimensions.

The groove of the door frame, into which we insert the extensions, is cleaned of foam with a small piece of board. We will do this around the entire perimeter of the door frame.

Install the dobor boards in the freed groove. To fix the extension, it is necessary to wedge it in the upper corners of the door frame.

Using a level or a straight board, it is necessary to ensure that the extension is either flush with the wall, or, if the wall is uneven, protrudes slightly.

The extension will hold perfectly if it is fixed with mounting foam. In this case, there is no need to make holes and fix it with screws to the wall. As the foam expands and hardens, it can be cut flush with the wall.

So, we installed the extensions and foamed them with mounting foam to fix them. If you do everything according to this technology, then the door can be used in 20 minutes. We just have to wait for the foam to completely harden, cut it off, plaster and level the sections of the wall adjacent to the door, glue the wallpaper or paint the walls, and only then nail the casing. When plastering a doorway, wet plaster should not be allowed to come into contact with the door frame. Use masking tape here, remove the plaster immediately. To make the door fit more tightly, bend the protrusion on the mating part of the latch.

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