DIY paint box for models. Business idea: Creation of a paint box

I’ve been looking at store-bought paint boxes for painting models for a long time. In terms of functionality, if you can still somehow come to terms with it and pick something up. The prices completely discourage all desires.

That's why I also looked at homemade boxes. But what’s interesting, and rightly so, I think, is that everyone makes boxing for themselves. Someone has one aspect, well done. Someone else has it. Well, there is nothing that would be good for the soul, so to speak. That’s when I thought – well, what, I can’t do it for myself. Just what I need.

I began to proceed from my tasks.
1. The box should not be very large and not small. Such that it would be possible to paint ship hulls on a scale of 200-100.
2. It must fit freely into the dimensions of my workshop (storage room).
3. Well lit.
4. Have a rotary table for painting small parts.
5. Have a series of clamps to hold parts while painting.
6. Have intense suction from the paint spray area.
7. So that, if necessary, it is possible to remove purified air into the atmosphere.
8. Easy to replace filter.

I thought and crossed out. Figuring out what materials I have to build. The result is a rather interesting design, and most importantly, compact and easy to assemble. Maybe not exactly beautiful, but functional.

I sat down at the table and drew up the assembly radii (so that nothing would touch anything) of the paint box.

The result was a painting box with the following assembled dimensions:
Length – 500 mm, width – 400 mm, height (thickness) – 100 mm.

I needed the following materials:
1. The first piano hinges are almost 500 mm long, and the two short ones are 200 mm long.
2. Aluminum corner 10x10 mm, about 2 meters.
3. Double switch, for light and motors – 1 piece,
4. Two Tidar electric motors 120x20x25 for 220 volts - 2 pieces
5. Two connectors for connecting the cord and connecting the compressor.
6. Fluorescent lamp, I used NavigatorNEL - A2, 220 v, W 8.. But, if you wish, you can also use an LED one.
7. Narrow pieces of 4 mm plywood.
8. And several different sheets of plexiglass.
9. Handle for carrying the box.
10. Inspection hatches for plumbing 2 pcs.
11. Various fasteners. I used M3 screws and nuts of that rating.

Step 1. Assembling the case.
The assembled body should look like this.

I made the base of the painting box from 5 mm thick plexiglass, well, I had something like that. Size 500 x 400 mm. On the opposite side of the base from me I secured an aluminum corner, taking into account that the back wall made of plywood would still rise. I did the same thing on the sides of the base, only the side walls were beveled and did not reach the end of the base. But the width was the same as the back wall. I attached piano hinges to the back and side walls with screws.

I screwed transparent plexiglass (box lid) of the same size as the base to the long loop. Through an aluminum corner I attached a front plane made of 4 mm plywood to it. Equal in width to the side and rear planes attached to the base.

And, from the front surface on the sides, there are two oblique planes, made of plywood. Which, when closed, complement the sides of the base. I screwed trapezoidal side walls made of transparent plexiglass to the side piano hinges. When open, the paint box body looks like this:

When folded, the trapezoidal side walls have the following positions.

Next, a double switch is embedded into the front board under the right hand.

And, in the right oblique (small) side panel there is a connector for a plug for connecting a compressor, and a connector for a cord. In this case, I used the connector and cord from a fluorescent lamp. We bet who has what.

The case turned out to be of decent volume and quite light.

Step 2: Install fans.
I selected the fans so that they had a minimum height (thickness). Well, that’s understandable. And, naturally, the other characteristics would also satisfy me. The choice fell on TUDOR fans. I bought them.

I made markings on the box cover and started cutting out holes for installing fans.

Step 3. Arranging the box.
To make it easier to carry the box, a handle was installed on the front panel.

I installed stops on the side trapezoidal walls to hold them in a vertical position.

I installed a reflective box on the back wall of the box.

It has a dual purpose. The first repels the paint spray upward to the hood filters. The second is the enclosure housing for storing the electrical cord of the box.

Close to the plywood side walls of the box and the reflective box, on the left and right, I installed plumbing inspection hatches, making small bases to increase the volume.

To make it easier to lift the hatch covers, I glued small bosses taken from used old gas lighters to their valves.

These hatches are designed to store parts holders while painting them.

On the left are holders with teeth, on the right without teeth with flat jaws. They (the holders) are made of so-called “crocodiles”. Which are fixed on an aluminum wire, allowing them to be bent in the desired position. The holders are mounted on a turntable. The design, which I will give below.

Next, I cut the lid of the box in line with the front panel, since it protruded a lot. On the inside of the front surface, where the fluorescent lamp is installed, the free areas were covered with silver foil for better reflection of light. I installed boxes for wires and wired and connected the fans to the switch. One switch works to turn on the lights, the second to turn on the fans. On the lid of the box at the top, opposite the lamp, I painted it.

On the front side, underneath, I pasted a strip of plexiglass. Possibly from plywood. It is designed to concentrate the light of the lamp on the painting table, and also to prevent the light from hitting the eyes.

I installed a holder for an airbrush on the right trapezoidal wall.

Most cars will need painting at least once during their life. For this purpose, a painting booth is used - a special room designed specifically for painting work.

To obtain an ideal result, the painting and drying chamber must be equipped with all the necessary tools and equipment. Making a room for painting a car is possible with your own hands, if strict requirements and safety precautions are met.

Features of the spray booth

A standard painting kit for cars is a box (chamber) with an air ventilation system installed in it and devices for temperature regulation. Only if such conditions are met will it be possible to paint the car efficiently and reliably. The presence of a filter for the camera is also mandatory - with its help the air mixture will be cleaned and there will be no dust left there.

A properly configured exhaust hood in the workshop will eliminate paint mist and remove toxic fumes and gases. It is important that the exhaust device removes filtered air outside, only then will the box meet environmental standards. It is equally important to have temperature sensors and equipment in the chamber that allows you to set the desired mode. Another feature of the car painting booth is excellent lighting, which allows you to complete even the most complex stages of work.

If such conditions are not met, defects will inevitably appear when painting a car in the chamber. All modern models of spray booths are equipped with carefully selected and verified equipment. If you wish, you can create such a box with your own hands, for example, in the garage.

What does the camera consist of - list of equipment

Any suitable sized room can be equipped for a painting box. After finishing the work, it is always possible to restore the camera to its previous appearance, if necessary. To make a box yourself, you need to find the following equipment for sale or rent:

• air compressor with a pressure of 8 - 12 At, equipped with a receiver, oil and water separator;
• fans - inflating, supply;
• halogen-type lighting spotlights (4 pieces, 1.5 kW each) or a heat gun for drying;
• fabric hydrofilters;
• diode lamps (minimum 3 pieces);
• extended fluorescent lamps (minimum 6 pieces);
• reinforced polypropylene film.

Some craftsmen buy industrial oxygen cylinders for their cameras instead of a compressor. In this case, applying paint will be convenient, the layer will lie evenly and thinly, and due to the use of pure oxygen, gloss enhancers of the paint and varnish material will not be required. The risk is very high, because even with a small spark, ignition in the painting chamber will be instantaneous. It’s better to invest in a compressor and use a good varnish for shine.

Types of spray booths

Depending on the type of room, cells can be walk-through or dead-end. The classification of painting booths is based on the arrangement of the ventilation system. Depending on the indicator, the paint booth is organized as follows:

• with exhaust valves around the perimeter of the room on the walls (the most comfortable and inexpensive way);
• with ventilation valves inside gaps on the floor;
• with exhaust motors on the floor in shallow trenches.

Based on the type of ventilation, chambers are divided into single-engine and double-engine. In the first case, the air flow is supplied from above, and the fog settles down and is discharged through special channels. In the second option, the first motor pumps air, the second pumps it out of the box. Single-engine models have floor and ceiling vents, while dual-motor models have wall vents.

Making a paint booth

Usually, for self-conversion of cameras, semi-professional or even less expensive devices are used, which will allow you to paint cars with high quality, but not at the highest level. For professional painting work, the level of equipment is much higher, which is unattainable without high costs.

All installation work on the arrangement of cameras is carried out in 5 stages:

1. Finding a room, estimating its size.
2. Drawing up plans, drawings, calculations, assembly diagrams.
3. Installation of the hood.
4. Finishing, lining of internal walls, floors, ceilings, box gates.
5. Installation of furniture, drying and heating equipment.

Up to 1/3 of all equipment is used to suck in and remove dust, combat water curtains and paint droplets (tiny suspensions in the air), because the final result of car painting depends on this. It is equally important to purchase high-quality drying equipment, because the operating principle of the box is to thoroughly dry painted parts using high-power halogen lamps or a heat gun.

Preparing to mount the camera

At the very beginning, you should create a camera design on paper. In the drawing you need to schematically draw all the main components, while simultaneously painting smaller parts and elements. Next, at the stage of preparatory work, they stock up on all the necessary equipment for the camera: ventilation system, heat gun, lamps, etc.

On sale there is equipment for equipping service stations and paint booths from well-established brands - Nordberg (separate equipment), Saima, ColorTech, Metron, Oscas, Thermoprocess (ready-made cameras), there are good brands from China.

All systems must operate automatically. It is advisable to have a generator in case of a power outage - just to be on the safe side. The room must be locked with reliable locks, because the cost of the equipment will be quite high.

Basic requirements for the construction of a chamber

There are a number of requirements for the construction and arrangement of a booth for painting cars. The dimensions of the box should be sufficient, not small - this way the master will not have problems with movement and painting.

It is better if the box is made of metal structures or concrete. There should be 2 doors - sliding or regular. The main thing is that they open easily, and in case of fire it would be possible to urgently evacuate employees. Doors should be made airtight, otherwise dust and dirt will get in from the street.

Camera material

The chamber must be made of materials that meet a number of requirements:

• tightness;
• fire resistance;
• possibility of wet cleaning;
• thermal insulation properties.

Sometimes, to save costs, craftsmen decorate walls with furniture-made materials or wooden lining. But such walls will be susceptible to fire, therefore, wood is undesirable for use. Iron and other metal parts and non-flammable insulating materials (in rolls) are suitable.

If there are steel walls near the garage, they must be insulated. Outside, sandwich panels are installed with a layer of basalt wool or other fire-resistant insulating material, then another layer of steel is installed. The joints are treated with silicone sealants. If there is a permanent structure made of concrete or brick, insulate the chamber from the inside using mineral wool and waterproof plasterboard. After the walls are primed, white powder paint is applied.

You can replace powder paint with plastic fireproof lining, which can withstand up to +500 degrees. Why is it important to make your walls white? This color will not distort paint shades when processing cars. For the same reason, walls should be painted only with matte paint - the shine will blind the master.

Often the walls of paint booths are finished with a special film with the possibility of magnetization. It attracts dust, preventing it from circulating in the air and depositing on painted car parts. One layer of film can be used to process 10 cars, then it is renewed.

When selecting materials for the chamber, you should also pay attention to the installation of the floor. The finished floor must allow air to circulate, so special multi-layer gratings are installed to ensure the inflow and outflow of flows. If there was an inspection hole on the floor in the garage, it is also covered with homemade iron gratings, under which boards are placed. An air duct pipe is removed from the pit - this will become the basis for lower ventilation. On a solid floor, dig a rectangular hole or 2 trenches one meter deep, and install a 20 cm high flooring on them.

The ceiling of a chamber in the shape of a rectangle will be convenient if corner-shaped lamps are installed along its perimeter. Otherwise, you will have to round the corners of the chamber, otherwise dust will accumulate in the corners due to air turbulence. Filters must be installed on the ceiling, which ideally occupy the entire surface.

Lighting in the chamber

The organization of lighting is very important for obtaining high-quality results in painting trucks and cars. It is necessary that the light is bright, but comfortable for the eyes, and the location of the lamps allows shadows and glare to be eliminated. According to the rules for ensuring the technological process, illumination varies from 600 to 2000 Lumens, diffused light.

Three types of lamps are used for car painting booths:

• incandescent;
• luminescent;
• LED

A convenient option for installing a lighting system would be fluorescent lamps or fluorescent lamps, which have a high heat transfer coefficient and are quite economical. The devices are placed along the ceiling, and to view the lower part of the machine - on the side walls (for example, model K 1339). Their disadvantages include low environmental friendliness and the need for disposal, because there are mercury vapors inside.

Incandescent lamps are more common and very cheap. For the painting booth, you can use those with a vacuum flask. It is best to buy devices with a mirror or tinted surface. Unfortunately, incandescent lamps have a low luminous efficiency, but high thermal radiation, and the products do not last long.

LEDs are the most acceptable option for installing a lighting system in a box. Electricity consumption is very low, safety is high, and the service life is up to 50 thousand hours. High-quality diodes do not blink or flicker, are resistant to high temperatures, are reliable and durable, although they are more expensive than other devices.

Chamber ventilation

The ventilation system plays a key role in high-quality car painting. A properly installed system performs the following functions:

• removal of fog caused by the use of a spray gun or that occurs when painting using electrostatic spraying;
• maintaining the frequency of air exchange and the desired temperature;
• filtration of dirty air, its reverse circulation;
• air purification before painting.

The design of the chamber requires the use of high-performance ceiling filters, which will prevent foreign substances and dust particles from entering the working area. It is better to buy two-phase filters, which in the first phase purify the air from large pollutants, and in the second – from small ones.

It is necessary to clean the exhaust air - this is an important requirement of environmental supervision services. At high humidity, additional compressed air preparation units are used, which have the ability to dry and clean air flows.

Ventilation must operate in painting and drying mode. For painting, it is important to supply clean air with a temperature of 25 - 27 degrees; it is necessary to take air and dust from the chamber. When drying, air is supplied at a temperature of 45 - 90 degrees, for which it is important to install a special heat exchanger.

In the ventilation system, it is important to correctly design the outlet openings that discharge exhaust air outside. Otherwise, “dead zones” with paint suspensions will appear in the chamber. This disrupts the quality of the machine’s painting, so additional devices are installed in the trenches on the floor to extract air from the chamber.

Temperature

A heating system is required in a garage or other room from which a painting box is made. If you use the camera frequently, you need to buy a heat generator. For work performed only a couple of times a month, you can limit yourself to a household-type infrared heater. Such a mini-heating element will be more economical to use.

Another option for installing air heating is a heat generator made independently from a cast iron boiler for liquid fuel. The device can operate on waste oil or diesel fuel.

Ready-made models purchased from specialized companies often run on gas. Such devices will also be responsible for drying the car. The main thing is that the heat supply is uniform and continuous, eliminating overheating. Powerful halogen lamps (spotlights) can also be used for drying.

Camera interior

Inside the chamber there should be a separate corner or room for storing equipment, paint, burners, clothes and other things and tools. This will help avoid inconvenience and damage to equipment and personal protective equipment. Directly for the painting process, you should buy conventional spray guns, low-pressure pneumatic spray guns, airless spray guns or combined systems (the most expensive).

Automatic process control greatly simplifies the work. Automation will require significant costs, but professionals prefer not to save. The control panel has manual and automatic mode. The built-in timer will allow you to accurately paint and dry, and the result will be no worse than at the factory.

Pros and cons of homemade boxing

Is it worth installing the camera yourself or is it better to buy a ready-made one? Advantages of homemade boxing:

• the ability to create a project yourself at your personal discretion;
• saving money, including cheaper camera maintenance;
• the opportunity to save on some components of the system, for example, buy used devices.

The camera also has many disadvantages. There is no guarantee that all systems will work for a long time - breakdown is possible. There is a risk of design errors, because calculations may be made incorrectly. In this case, you will have to spend additional money on repairs and reinstallation of equipment.

Cost of paint box

The price of the box will depend on the selected materials, the number of motors, the type of ventilation, and the presence or absence of automation. Typically, the cost of a fully equipped camera is at least 0.5 million rubles.

Custom assembly and installation of all equipment increases the cost, as does maintenance with the involvement of specialists. After completion of installation, it is necessary to register a new type of activity according to OKPD 2 and register with the regulatory authorities.

With the arrival of winter, the number of painting jobs I do has sharply decreased. Before that, I used the airbrush exclusively outdoors - on the loggia. I didn’t want to deal with paint in the room, and the line of models for painting grew longer. At some point I decided to make a painting box with my own hands, which would allow me to carry out work in the apartment.

The basic requirements for boxing were as follows:

• ease of manufacture from scrap materials;
• possibility of extracting air from the working area;
• built-in interior lighting.

As a basis for the box, I used a ready-made corrugated cardboard box, which was purchased at the Leroy-Merlin store. Two sockets along with light bulbs, an electrical cord with a plug, as well as a sewer corrugation, which I planned to use for air extraction, were also purchased there. To create air flow, I initially wanted to use a fan of suitable size, but then I came up with the idea of ​​​​using a vacuum cleaner for this. It already contains a set of filters that should theoretically retain the paint suspension. The most important thing is that aerosol paint vapors will be removed from the work area and will not enter the respiratory system. All that remains is to figure out how to pair the vacuum cleaner hose and the purchased corrugation. We will also need adhesive tape, electrical tape and a utility knife.

Let's start making the paint box. We assemble the box.

We assemble the lower part of the box completely and secure it with tape.

We cut off the short flaps of the upper part and one long one. We shorten the second long flap - we need it to create an exhaust area.

Tape all corners with tape for strength.

We strengthen the ceiling of the box with one of the cut flaps and cut out a hole for the corrugation in the center of the roof.

We install the corrugation and secure it by winding electrical tape.

We assemble a garland of two parallel-connected light bulbs. The length of the wire between the lamps should be slightly less than the width of the box.

The paint box is ready.

We connect the vacuum cleaner hose and check the efficiency of the hood. To do this, you can use matches or a burning candle. Advice: do not stretch the corrugation - it creates an unpleasant whistling sound when the vacuum cleaner operates.

Checking the box in operation.

As I already wrote, I made a mistake with the initial installation location of the light bulbs. I had to move them to the front part of the roof box. I sealed the holes in the back wall of the box with tape.

Now everything is great - you can paint it.

In the future, you can cover the inside of the box with white paper - this will improve the lighting.

Greetings to all. Happy New Year and Merry Christmas!!!

I don't know if this topic is needed, if not, delete it.

Since painting my first model, I have used a regular delivery box. The option is cheap and cheerful, but... the problem is that the suspension did not go away and settled all over the glazed balcony. I worked in a respirator mask with Jeta Safety 5000 filters.

The mask is gorgeous. There are no smells, but... even with the balcony door closed, all the cocoa eventually seeped into the apartment, which caused righteous anger in my wife and caused me a lot of problems myself. And even then I began to think about a full-fledged paint box, but the price tag and the quality of workmanship thereof could not overcome my toad and I started looking for options for homemade boxes on the Internet.

As a result, I found drawings that suited me and based on these drawings I sculpted my own version. Drawings of the original source are attached. I can't say exactly where I found them, since quite a lot of time has passed. I can only say a big thank you to the author.

Save to AlbumSave to AlbumSave to Album The concept remains the same, but I changed the dimensions a little. To be more precise, I increased the width to 60 cm. I did this for the simple reason that 24 scale trucks can be quite long.

A sheet of white plastic, 5 mm thick, was used. The dimensions, in fact, are designed for the same thickness.
The fan installed Awenta WGB 125, using a flexible air duct, brought the emission of poop out of the window through a sandwich panel.
In addition, I added LED lamp LLT SPO-108 18W 160-260V 4000K 1440Lm 600mm IP40. It turned out pretty good. Lighting and ventilation are turned on simultaneously using an old switch from some kind of lamp.

I hope my experience will be useful to someone to save a normal amount of money.

Let's see what happened on the slides.