How to paint laminated mdf. The choice of paint for furniture, doors and panels from MDF

The abbreviation MDF stands for finely dispersed fraction. This material, invented in 1966 in the United States, is a board of medium-density wood fibers pressed under high pressure.

Today, MDF has gained universal recognition, for example, among furniture manufacturers. And if you have MDF furniture at home, it is quite possible to repaint them again - this is an inexpensive and effective way to change the situation. In addition, painting can additionally protect MDF surfaces from negative environmental factors.

Modern technologies and materials make it possible to paint the facade in the kitchen or other pieces of MDF furniture at home quite efficiently.

Paints that can be applied

For self-painting MDF boards, it is best to take enamels, since they form a strong opaque film, they are glossy and matte. You can use the following materials:

• alkyd, alkyd-urethane or oil-based enamels;
• based on polyurethane resins;
• acrylic enamels;
• nitro paints of the NTs series;
• professional two-component polyurethane enamels;
• specialized enamels for MDF;
• car enamels.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics. But perhaps the last two items on the list have the best properties.

It is especially worth noting that in industrial conditions today, powder coating of MDF facades is often used. This method is extremely economical, making it possible to achieve high mechanical and chemical costs. The method is based on the ability of opposite charges to attract each other. Initially, it was used for ceramics, metals and other materials that can withstand high temperatures.

It is now almost impossible to paint MDF facades in standard home conditions with a powder method. For such painting, special expensive equipment is needed, which can pay for itself only with constant frequent use, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to place it at home.

Types of varnishes

Instead of painting, you can choose varnishing. To reliably cover MDF with varnish, it is necessary to apply several layers and each time wait for complete drying. The process will take a long time and require effort.

If, nevertheless, a decision is made to choose a varnish, then they pay attention not only to its cost and composition, but also to wear resistance, resistance to humidity, and high temperature. To cover MDF boards at home, you can use several different types of varnishes.

The cheapest compositions in this segment are made on an alcohol basis, they have a short drying time (up to half an hour), that is, they are quick-drying. Among the traditional inexpensive varnishes can be attributed to oil varnishes, which not only give a beautiful appearance to surfaces, but also effectively protect them from moisture.

Note! For coating MDF countertops, two-component epoxy varnishes, which are characterized by increased impact resistance, are an excellent choice.

Acrylic varnishes are good because they are odorless, do not emit toxic substances, are not washed off and are not diluted with water. Another popular option is polyurethane varnish. It is characterized by enviable wear resistance, good adhesion to wood-based materials.

As for those cases when further polishing of MDF products is expected, here the best option would be nitrocellulose varnishes.

Grinding and sanding the surface

In paint and varnish work, home or industrial, the correct preparation of a surface is important. In order for the paint to adhere well to the MDF board (for example, on facades or wall panels), it is necessary to sand them first.

Grinding requires certain tools:

• sandpaper;
• soft abrasive fine grit;
• primer grinders.

If the product for painting is small in size, then they work with sandpaper on foam rubber gradation from P220 to P280. For cleaning large flat surfaces, fine-grained grinding mats of the 700th series are used. With the same materials, excess soil can be removed in the future.

MDF facades are sanded over the entire plane, removing the top layer of varnish. Complex bends of milling MDF facades, edges, edges and ends are best cleaned with the same sandpaper.

When grinding, it is required to follow the technology for removing old varnish, the surface should not be allowed to overheat (if working with a power tool), so-called risks (scratches) should not appear on the lamination. The wood fiber surface, as a rule, is under a decorative laminated film, therefore, when sanding, it is impossible to wipe the top layer to the holes. Chips are separately cleaned of dirt, polished edges.

After grinding, the surface will become matte, rough. Then the dust is swept away (drawn in with a vacuum cleaner), the surface of the plate is washed with a solvent. It will remove possible fatty deposits, excess moisture, pollution.

Primer coating

Before painting, it is highly desirable to treat the MDF with a primer. This processing is carried out in two steps. At the first stage, the primer-insulator is sprayed with an airbrush at the rate of 90-100 grams per square meter.

Note! If you intend to paint a laminated MDF board (LMDF), then you can do without priming and go straight to the next operation.

The primer should prevent new paint or varnish from soaking into the MDF board. The soil gets into all the loose areas of the MDF, which means that in the future the paint will not sag. After the primer dries, the surface is carefully sanded with sandpaper or sandpaper.

For the formation of the second layer, it is best to take a white polyurethane primer. Here the consumption should be as follows - 150 grams per square meter. And this layer of soil must be given a certain time to dry - up to 24 hours.

If we talk about general recommendations for priming MDF, then it is carried out with an airbrush. If there is no spray gun, then you can use a brush. First, the most complex elements of the cutters are processed, then the edge and the rest of the surface. For the first time, the part is covered along, and the second layer is made across the direction of the strokes of the first.

Paint application

After priming, it is time to apply paint directly. Here, in principle, there is nothing complicated. First, prepare the dye according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then they take the spray gun and adjust it so that its coverage area is small. This allows you to save material and paint as carefully as possible.

Painting MDF facades or other products from this material begins with the most problematic (for example, covered with cracks and scratches) areas. And only after that the rest of the area is painted over. For best results, apply several layers. Moreover, after each layer, it is necessary to take a break from twenty minutes to several hours - for drying.

If there is no experience with an airbrush, then you should first practice on some unnecessary piece of wood. Of course, you can use a roller or brush, but in this case there is a risk that the surface will not be perfectly smooth and even.

Varnishing

After staining, in most cases it is also necessary to varnish the product. The first layer of varnish prepared for use is applied at the same rate as the primer (150 g per 1 sq. M).

The second layer is applied after the first layer is completely dry. Then, when this paint also dries, it is necessary to sand the MDF panel again. First, coarse-grained sandpaper is passed along its surface, and then fine-grained sandpaper is used. To prevent lumps from rolling, the treated area is periodically moistened with water.

A week after this, the MDF must be further polished with a grinder and abrasive paste. This is the most correct technology, although at home, when working with your own hands, it is sometimes not followed, limited to ordinary varnishing.

Experts recommend using a sprayer for painting, because after applying a paint brush or roller, traces of villi will remain. Often, painted furniture stands in a place where the sun's rays fall on it from various angles. And in this case, all the shortcomings of the facial coverings will be visible very well.

Note! The least traces remain when using a roller with a fine pile - if there is no airbrush, then it is better to choose this particular tool.

It happens that you need to independently paint not only the outer, but also the reverse side of the MDF board. In this case, between these two operations it is worth taking a break - wait for drying. The time for which this or that paint dries is usually indicated on the packaging, but you need to take into account the microclimate in the room and make appropriate adjustments.

When painting MDF with your own hands, many are tempted to use an aerosol can. However, experts advise to refrain from this impulse. Aerosols are really easy to work with, but the quality of the coating in the end leaves much to be desired - professionals have a lot of complaints about it.

Paint that dries for a long time hides defects better. Quick-drying materials are clearly losing here - some cracks and bumps remain noticeable.

It happens that errors in staining or too deep damage become noticeable after work is completed. In this case, they can be masked with a self-adhesive film. You just need to select the desired pattern in the store and carefully stick the film on the furniture facade.

The pile on MDF boards does not rise, as with natural wood materials, and this must be taken into account when buying paints, primers, varnishes. The fact is that the price of a lint-free coating is more than usual, so you should not overpay for unnecessary benefits.

The abbreviation MDF in the last two decades has firmly entered our everyday life, as this type of fiberboard is used in the furniture industry, and for the manufacture of doors, and as a wall material. This is a great alternative to natural wood, the price of which remains high.

Useful information about this material will be presented to your attention: how it is produced, where it is used, how MDF panels can be painted, and much more. A great addition to our story will be the video in this article on the topic: "Painted MDF facades."

Features of MDF

Most of those who plan to build a country house, make repairs or make built-in furniture on their own are interested in the question: “What is the difference between MDF and chipboard?”. In appearance, they are very similar, but the production technologies are different and, accordingly, the performance is also different.

For comparison, you are offered a small instruction:

Differences	Chipboard	MDF
Raw materials for production	Large shavings of low-value wood	Fine sawdust is waste from the woodworking industry, as well as wood intended for felling.
Technology difference	Pressing under hot steam. In production, formaldehyde is used - a very toxic substance.	Pressing under high pressure and temperature. Paraffin and woody humus, which is called lingin, are used as a binder. So, MDF is an environmentally friendly material.
Application	Only in dry rooms. As a rule, these are floors, partitions, built-in furniture. It is not recommended to use in bedrooms and children's rooms.	Can be used in rooms with humidity levels up to 80%. Since MDF does not contain toxic substances, it can be used for interior decoration for any purpose.

Since MDF has a denser structure and is able to withstand higher levels of humidity, it practically does not deform over time. That is why factories use only MDF in the production of cabinet and upholstered furniture. The technology for painting MDF and chipboard facades is similar, and we will talk about it in a separate chapter.

Note! In this case, we are talking about furniture and built-in interior facades. Neither material is used to finish the exterior walls! The facades of houses are sheathed with OSB boards, which are completely impervious to moisture. They obtain such properties due to the presence of polymer resins in the composition.

Medium-density fibreboards, namely the so-called MDF, are in demand not only in the furniture industry, but also in the production of interior finishing materials. In addition to wall and ceiling panels, these are also molded products: slats, platbands, MDF plinth for painting.

And how great laminate floors look! But what can I say: look at the picture above, and it immediately becomes clear that without this material today, nowhere.

Sizes and face covering

Manufacturers of sheet MDF offer material of various sizes and thicknesses. There are no uniform standards in the world, and each enterprise determines independently which standard sizes to produce. Ultimately, it all depends on the purpose of the sheets and consumer demand.

• If you decide to make a wardrobe, then for the back wall you can take all-pressed sheets with a thickness of only 3 mm, for the sidewalls and furniture facade, 10 mm is already required. To build an interior partition, you need a material with a thickness of 12-16 mm, and, for example, to build a rack - 24 mm.
• Here is such a wide range. The dimensions of the sheets also differ, but not so much. On average, the width and length of the sheets is: 1220 * 2440 mm; 1830*2440mm; 2070*2800 mm. As you can see, the dimensions allow, if necessary, to block the walls along the entire height.

• As for finishing their surface, the buyer always has a choice: painting MDF with his own hands or using sheets with a ready-made factory coating - and, by the way, it can be not only painted. Decorative cladding of sheet MDF is also carried out by pasting it with PVC film, laminating and veneering.
• When using such sheets, for example, for the manufacture of built-in furniture, painting MDF facades is not required at all. If you look closely at the photo above, you can see that even the edges have already been processed, and when using such a sheathing material, it remains only to decorate the cuts.

The decor of the MDF surface can consist not only in imitation of various types of wood. Wall material stylized as stone, plaster or brickwork makes it possible to create interesting compositions in the interior, one of which we see in the above example. Sheets intended for finishing wet rooms are protected by a melamine coating.

Some features of wall cladding

Before talking about whether it is possible to paint MDF panels and how to do it: with enamel or water-dispersion compositions, we will briefly talk about the nuances of installation. After all, errors can greatly affect the geometry of the skin or structural element and, accordingly, nullify all your work.

• To prevent this from happening, it is very important that the MDF be adapted to the microclimate of the room in which it will be used before installation. It cannot be used immediately after delivery from the store and unloading. In a normal dry room, it should lie down for a day. If you have to sheathe a basement or an unheated attic, it takes at least 48 hours to adapt.

Mounting options

At this time, you can start preparing the surface of the walls, the degree of which depends on the chosen installation option. Wall decoration with sheet MDF can be done in two ways: frame and glue.

In the first case, the material is mounted on the crate. At the same time, special preparation is not required, and if the walls are uneven, the frame elements are installed on direct suspensions.

• In order to be able to mount the panels on glue, the walls must be well leveled, sanded, cleaned of dust and primed. If sheet material is used in the installation, it is glued to the base base. Small format panels can also be glued to plasterboard sheathing and even to the surface of wooden battens.

• The sawing of sheet and modular material is carried out with a manual or electric cutting tool. In order not to damage the factory decorative coating of the sheets, the following nuances must be taken into account when cutting: when using a hacksaw, saw from the front side, and when using a circular saw - from the inside.

Note! During installation, it is very important to leave a technological gap of 2 cm between the casing and the ceiling. This is especially true for bathrooms and kitchens, where the temperature and humidity of the air changes several times a day. In the absence of a gap, the expanded material will rest against the ceiling and, accordingly, deform. For the same reason, in these rooms, it is better to install on the crate, since it also provides a ventilated space.

• Long and classic wall panels, as a rule, do not require any surface modification, including grouting. After sheathing the walls with sheet MDF, the joints are sealed by filling with a special compound, and then closed with plastic moldings.
• Sheets with a factory decorative coating can also be mounted with a gap, which looks very interesting. The necessary distance between the ends of the panels is provided by special cruciform plastic inserts. If the sheathing is made with ordinary sheet material that does not have a decorative coating, then its surface must also be prepared.

Since MDF has a high density and a fairly smooth surface, it is not necessary to putty it. It is simply lightly sanded with fine sandpaper and, having cleaned of dust, is treated with a pore-filling primer. But what kind of paint for MDF facades is best suited and how to apply it correctly, we will tell in the next chapter.

What and how to paint MDF

First of all, sheet MDF is a constructive material. Along with drywall, it is used for interior wall cladding of frame-panel houses. But compared to GKL, MDF is more durable and has high thermal insulation properties, so there is every reason to use it.

• Is it possible to paint MDF panels so that they are indistinguishable from a plastered surface? Of course you can! Take a look at the example below and you will see a beautifully painted half-timbered frame house interior.

In this case, the load-bearing structures of the house are involved in the design, but even if this is not possible, moldings from the same material as the sheathing can be used for decorative wall paneling. The main thing is to come up with an interesting design, and then you can already think about how to paint MDF.

MDF products for painting

Both for natural wood and for all its derivatives - whether it be chipboard, OSB or MDF, similar types of paints are used. Just before painting MDF doors or the same panels, make sure that the paint is designed for wood or is a universal paintwork. In this case, the label will say: "For all types of surfaces."

• The main thing here is not even the type of paint, but the correct primer. It is important that it be made from the same substance as the paint. That is, if polyurethane paint is used for MDF, then the primer must also be polyurethane.

• Paint for MDF doors, as well as molding material, which are called "for painting", is selected in accordance with the type of primer already applied at the factory. Most often, this is a white acrylic primer paint, which replaces not only the adhesive impregnation, but also the first layer of paint. So, for finishing painting, you also need to purchase acrylic paint.
• But its color can be any, and not necessarily white. In general, doors primed for painting are a budget option. They are chosen mainly because of the lowest cost. In such a situation, the question arises before a person: “How to paint MDF doors so that the coating looks no worse than in the factory version?”.
• If you want to get a high-quality surface, you need to forget about brushes and rollers, and use an airbrush. Painting MDF panels, facades of home-made furniture and door blocks will turn out in this case the most uniform and accurate.

• This is especially true for doors - it is generally better to paint them first, and then install them. Firstly, door hinges, fittings and, especially, glazing will not get dirty with paint. And secondly, when the door is installed, it is much more difficult to paint over its ends, layout, panels.

It is good if white paint is applied on white ground. And if it is a different color, in some places bald spots will still be visible.

With a brush, it is generally difficult to paint even a smooth surface with high quality - what can we say about such a design as a door. On request: "MDF: painting technology" you can watch one or two videos, where this process is explained and shown in an accessible way.

The nuances of painting work

It is much easier, of course, to paint an MDF product that is already prepared at the factory for painting. And if you have to ennoble sheet sheathing that does not have a decorative coating? We have already mentioned that such a surface is polished before painting.

Why is this done if the surface of the MDF is already smooth:

• The fact is that during the production process the material is covered with a protective wax layer. This is what needs to be removed, otherwise the front surface will not have any adhesion to either the primer or the paint. Grinding of sheathing material is best done not with sandpaper, but with a machine - but it all depends on the amount of work.

• It is very important that this be done with high quality, over the entire plane of the sheet. Otherwise, when painting, it will turn out that in some places the paint does not stick to the base. If you decide to apply a relief to the panels using a manual router, special attention should be paid to these places when grinding and priming.
• In general, before painting MDF facades, they first apply primer to the relief or overhead elements, then prime the edges, and only after that they begin to cover the entire plane of the product. When working with the spray gun, the nozzle should move in parallel rows, with a fifty percent overlap on each other.
• First, longitudinal rows are applied, then transverse ones. Coatings are applied in the same manner. If you need to paint the facade of built-in furniture, then this is done on both sides. First, the back side is painted, and after it dries, the front side.

• Next, you need to let the product dry completely, then it will have to be sanded again to remove the pile that has risen during the primer. In this case, the most important thing is to correctly calculate the effort and not completely remove the soil layer, having reached the MDF. At the next stage, a covering paint-primer is applied.

For painting furniture facades, polyurethane-based paints are used. They create the most durable surface, and the furniture is subjected to constant mechanical stress. Well, for wall cladding it is best to use water-based paints - especially since they do not have such a toxic smell as polyurethane enamels.

In every home there is furniture that is of paramount importance in the interior of the room. Wherever she stands, no matter what she is - a closet, a chair, a table, a soft corner, she stands in front of everyone. In addition to the main purpose, the furniture should have a pleasant appearance, and it can serve as a decoration for the room.

Metamorphosis in white is a great way to extend the life of old interior items.

Unfortunately, it does not happen that a favorite piece of furniture remains for a long time as if it was brought from a store. After time, any thing loses its former attractiveness, grows old. It is necessary to regularly repair and reconstruct the furniture. A chipboard cabinet has turned into junk, this cannot be an excuse to take it to a landfill. It can be easily updated, you just need to paint it. With good care, old furniture will last for many, many years, because it is much stronger than modern furniture.

Yes, and the budget will not suffer, since the expenses will be negligible if you were buying a new cabinet.

Anyone who decides to paint furniture on their own, probably thought about how to do it right. Interior items made of chipboard absorb moisture to a lesser extent than wooden ones. It takes a long time for them to dry.

Chipboard will require less primer than wood.

So how do you paint the closet? What paint to apply? The best option would be to use a water-based alkyd or acrylic paint. It has many advantages - it has a juicy shade, no smell, which is of great importance when you work indoors, it is easily diluted with water. It is easy enough to wash off to correct inaccuracies during painting. Working with her is a pleasure. Once the paint dries, it will become stronger. Keep this in mind when you apply layers. Ordinary paint on wood or aerosol is also suitable.

There is a wide variety of acrylic paints with a metallic or mother-of-pearl effect.

To thoroughly paint, use varnishes. They will give the furniture the effect of antiquity. She will look great. The plane needs to be painted in several layers, first let each layer dry. This is not their only property.

Varnishes help to fix the color and protect against minor defects.

You can paint the cabinet in different colors, such as a light base and multi-colored details. For the desired color, add a tone to the white paint. When decorating a children's room, use all the fiction. Having decided what shade you need, apply paint on a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furniture, so you will understand what color the paint will need, what its brightness will be.

Each manufacturer produces an appropriate primer for their paint, and it is better to use this particular primer.

Necessary materials and tools

Before you start painting, you need to stock up on the necessary materials: construction tape; napkins or rags or sponges; sandpaper of various grits to remove the previous layer of paint; degreaser; primer; putty (automotive is quite suitable); solvent or white spirit - will remove the remnants of the old paint; glue; dye; varnish; gloves, for painting it is better to take rubber.

Materials and tools for work.

Of the tools you will need: stationery and carpentry knives; building hair dryer to dry the painted surface; flat brush - it’s better not to save on brushes, buy high-quality ones so that the villi do not remain on the surface; roller; putty knife; screwdrivers; hammer; nails; drill.

From the furniture you need to remove the fittings, remove the shelves, remove the doors. Then get to work.

Close up the cracks

The appearance of cracks on pieces of furniture made of chipboard, as a rule, contributes to the ingress of moisture, they are also formed due to exposure to heat or frequent opening and closing of doors, without holding them, slamming the doors. You can remove this defect yourself without resorting to outside help.

To work, you will need a syringe with a needle, clamps, PVA glue.

We fill the syringe with PVA glue, put on the needle. We fill the entire gap of the crack with glue. We attach a clamp to the plane from the side where the crack appeared, and tighten it. Excess glue is removed with a napkin. We leave for a day or two. After the time has passed, we continue the restoration work.

You can get rid of cracks with putty.

We apply the mixture on the plane with a spatula in two layers. The first layer is distributed equally evenly on the surface. We are waiting for it to dry, apply a second layer of putty, also let it dry.

Create a rough surface

Before painting, it is necessary to remove the old layer of paint. We will do it with sandpaper, after wiping the surface with a rag or sponge. Sand in circular motions. First, clean with coarse sandpaper. We carry out the work carefully, removing the old coating cleanly. Be careful not to rub off the veneer layer.

After the procedure, remove the dust with a flat brush, the dust will not be completely removed from the rag and may clog into the surface or cracks. This may affect the paintwork.

We clean again, but with fine-grained sandpaper. We remove dust in the same way. Upon completion of this stage of restoration, it is necessary to carry out a thorough cleaning of the premises.

This is necessary so that in the future dirt does not get on the surface to be painted.

Remove grease and dirt

Chipboard furniture must be cleaned of dirt and grease before painting. For this procedure, fat-dissolving agents are used.

Wash with a sponge or soft cloth, rinse, let dry, wipe with a cloth.

Primer - the main character

The primer is an important part in the process of furniture restoration, with its help you will paint the cabinet with high quality. Also, it will contribute to the rapid drying of the paint, because it does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the surface. A positive point is that after priming, the color saturation of the paint will remain the same as when painting.

If you chose acrylic paint for painting, then you need to take an acrylic-based primer.

Coloring will be of very good quality, because the elements of materials for painting are perfectly combined with each other. Before priming, it is important to read the instruction manual, find out how long the primer should dry, since only a dry surface needs to be painted.

Apply it with a roller in a very thin layer, leave for the time indicated in the memo.

The technology of applying paint and varnish on furniture

After the above preparations, we proceed directly to painting. There must be several layers, so the structure of the plane will not be visible. First, paint a tone lighter than the selected color.

The paint needs to be diluted with water from time to time, otherwise it may thicken.

Then we work with the main color, moving the brush in one direction, so the paint lays down evenly.

The number of layers is determined visually, to achieve the desired effect.

If you're painting in multiple colors, use painter's tape around the edges to keep the colors from mixing. It takes a certain time for the furniture to dry completely - about 2-3 days. After we cover the surface with a transparent varnish, this will protect it from external influences.

When the work is completed, we collect the elements of the cabinet.

Applying paint or varnish is necessary not only for beauty, but also to prevent the release of hazardous substances, in particular, formaldehyde. If there are children at home and it is of great importance for you that the finishing materials are odorless, use water-based acrylic varnishes.

After painting, your furniture will not only change its appearance, it will become a highlight of the interior.

Another acceptable option is NC varnish. Dries instantly, dusty coating is not noticeable on it. It is better to apply it in two layers. If the furniture already has a certain coating, it would be ideal to use PF-283 oil varnish.

The lining will become strong and sound, will last a very long time.

If you want the coating to be tinted, use a tinted alkyd varnish, especially since the color palette is quite diverse. To add gloss, use yacht varnish, the furniture will look just perfect.

Yacht lacquer is a good means for protection, as well as decorative finishing of wooden surfaces.

Of course, the preparation of furniture for painting takes a lot of time. If you ignore them, the desired effect may not be, and the coating applied to the furniture will quickly fall off. Everything must be done according to the rules. Updating outdated furniture is not difficult, as it might seem.

A little imagination and patience, and a luxurious piece of furniture will appear in the house.

How to artistically paint a closet and make a gradation of colors

Painting is widespread at the present time. People want their apartment or house to be unique, without monotony. And many furniture manufacturers are trying to release products specifically without any embellishment, so that everyone can decorate on their own. Many approach this process in different ways - using the original style or decorating with copies of famous paintings.

You can give uniqueness to absolutely any furniture, whether it be a chest of drawers, bedside table, wardrobe, table, chair, armchair, change the appearance of the room so that no one recognizes old furniture in the new interior.

Artistic painting is an exciting thing, the furniture will play in a new way. If you love and know how to draw, it will not be difficult to make a real work of art out of an ordinary closet, using all your imagination. For creative work it is worth using acrylic paints. The image must be applied to the base. The main thing is that the theme of the drawing is in complete harmony with the interior. Flora and various patterns will look unique. Furniture painted with craquelure looks very unusual.

Cracks will give the piece of furniture a very old look.

If the cabinet has a lot of drawers, gradation is better. You are transitioning between shades of the same color, or you can use different colors. For example, you make a phased transition from green to yellow, or from lilac to pink or blue. In order for the transition to be without sharp boundaries, a colored pigment should be added to the paint each time. You can draw a rainbow or whatever you like.

Particularly original gradation will look in the children's room.

Now there are many ways of alternating colors, all of them deserve sufficient attention. You can use any of them you like. Don't be afraid, create! You just have to want, and everything will work out.

VIDEO: We give new life to an old closet.

Options for updating old cabinets - 50 photo ideas:

Inexpensive racks and cabinets made of laminated chipboard and MDF were conceived as items that can be easily replaced with analogues of a different size, shape and color. But now home craftsmen can easily repaint such furniture.

- and share their experience in the open spaces of repair forums. We've rounded up the most common color refresh tips, thoroughly tested them, and now we're ready to pass on to you: paint boldly, you'll be fine!

1. Remove grease and dirt

3. Primer - the main character

Important: at this stage of work, carefully seal all the unremoved fittings with masking tape!

4. Seal cracks

6. Lacquer finish

If you have repainted the fronts of a wardrobe or kitchen cabinet - that is, furniture parts that are subject to a lot of wear - it makes sense to cover the painted surface with a water-based varnish. It will protect the paint from external influences, scratches and abrasion. True, there is a danger that the varnish will turn yellow over the years - but you already know how to repaint your furniture again!

Any person sooner or later has an irresistible desire to change something in the ordinary interior of his house or apartment. Often the usual rearrangement of furniture does not bring satisfaction and does not achieve the desired effect. In such cases, a radical change in the appearance of interior items helps out by painting them. Given the fact that most modern furnishings are made from inexpensive and commonly available materials, today we will learn how to paint MDF furniture at home without the help of specialists.

What can be useful for painting MDF furniture?

The fact is that changing the color of the entire piece of furniture or its individual parts allows you to transform and completely change not only their appearance, but also all the rooms as a whole, give it some new feature, zest. I am also glad that the painting of MDF furniture does not require the performer to possess any special skills and the availability of complex factory equipment. It is enough to prepare the necessary tools and buy suitable paints and varnishes.

What tools and materials are needed for the job?

To radically change the appearance of your favorite furniture, make sure that you have at hand all the necessary tools and materials in the required quantity before starting work.

To finish furniture elements from MDF, you will need:

• Depending on your idea, one or more cans of paint of the desired colors.
• Wood putty, which is used for sealing joints and partial repairs.
• Container for dilution of paint.
• Masking tape of the desired width.
• Flat brush.
• Roller with a long fine pile.
• Gloves to protect hands.
• A respirator to protect the respiratory tract from toxic secretions of paint.
• Protective glasses.

Important! A primer may be required to create a protective layer, but if you intend to paint a laminated surface, then you will not need it. It is advisable to prepare a piece of sandpaper to clean the end surfaces and putty.

What paint is best for furniture?

Before you start working, you need to figure out how to paint MDF furniture at home. First you need to decide in advance what result you want to achieve. Depending on this, it is recommended to choose the appropriate coating. Paints and varnishes used for decorating furniture are conventionally divided into two types:

• Transparent.
• Opaque.

Important! Opaque compositions, due to the presence of special pigments in them, are used to create a protective layer and enhance the natural shade of wood.

Opaque materials include:

• Drying oil.
• Azure.

Such coatings are much more expensive than pigment paints, in particular due to the fact that they are used to work with the most expensive furniture made from expensive wood. If you will paint ordinary MDF furniture, then you can use the usual products based on latex, acrylic or polyurethane.

Important! If the furniture you want to update is quite old and has minor scratches, then it is best to paint it with oil-based or water-based compounds. Interior items coated with water-based paint look incredibly beautiful and last a very long time.

Universal options:

• Alkyd mixtures have recently been in great demand, due to the fact that they are easy to apply, they dry quickly and last longer than water and oil paints.
• Polyurethane formulations are no less actively used, but it should be noted that during operation they emit substances harmful to health. Therefore, you need to constantly ventilate the room.

How to prepare for surface painting?

Studying general information, many are interested in whether it is possible to paint MDF furniture without prior preparation. In principle, yes, but experts say that it is better not to neglect this moment. It is necessary to prepare furniture for painting carefully so that in the future there will be no problems with it due to mechanical stress and temperature changes.

The surface preparation process includes the following steps:

1. First, the products are processed with sandpaper to create a rough surface. If there are large scratches, cracks, they should be filled with putty on wood, then sanded again to eliminate bumps and drops. The main purpose of this treatment is to eliminate smoothness, which adversely affects adhesion.
2. Then a primer is applied to the treated areas, which will provide them with additional adhesion and reduce the overall paint consumption. In addition, the primer allows you to create a barrier between the natural substances of the wood and the paint to prevent poor adhesion of the layers.

Features of painting MDF surfaces

We have already covered several important stages of work. It remains only to understand how to repaint MDF furniture with your own hands. This process is incredibly simple, but, nevertheless, it has certain features:

1. Surfaces should only be painted in one direction. There may be several layers of paint, preferably two.
2. The last layer is recommended to be applied along the canvas to be painted.
3. The second coat should not be applied until the first is completely dry.
4. All surfaces must be completely dry, free from grease and marks.
5. Avoid covering furniture with more than two coats of paint.

So we found out the answer to the question of whether it is possible to repaint MDF furniture in a different color. The main thing is to stock up on the necessary equipment and materials necessary for work, carefully prepare all surfaces, and strictly adhere to the above recommendations during painting.

Are you rearranging furniture from room to room and worrying about color mismatch? Do you want to make the living room brighter, but it's a pity to throw away the furniture? Cabinets and chairs can be repainted - we'll show you how

Inexpensive racks and cabinets made of laminated chipboard and MDF were conceived as items that can be easily replaced with analogues of a different size, shape and color. But now home craftsmen can easily repaint such furniture - and share their experience in the open spaces of repair forums. We've rounded up the most common color refresh tips, thoroughly tested them, and now we're ready to pass on to you: paint boldly, you'll be fine!

1. Remove grease and dirt

From the surface of laminated furniture, you need to wash off all dirt and degrease it. Use grease-dissolving detergents, rinse and wipe the laminate flooring thoroughly, and dry it with a tissue.

Many of the home craftsmen recommend disassembling the furniture. But here it all depends on the complexity of painting - if there are a lot of drawers and platbands in a rack or cabinet, then, of course, it is better to disassemble. If the shape of the furniture is very simple, and you want to paint, for example, only the facades, you can leave the cabinet "as is".

2. Create a rough surface

The coating on modern chipboard and MDF is made of PVC, and therefore, like any plastic, it is poorly wetted even with water, not to mention paint. For better adhesion (adhesion of the paint layer to the laminate layer), it is necessary to treat the surface with the thinnest emery cloth (“zero”). It is best to work in a respirator - the dust from the laminate layer is very harmful.

3. Primer - the main character

To ensure that the paint lays evenly, without rolling, and does not bubble in the near future, be sure to prime the surface of the furniture. Look for a primer that sticks to everything - even glass and tiles: almost all manufacturers of modern paints and varnishes already produce such primers (usually they are based on polyurethane). The cost of such a primer is quite high, but you should not save on it - its quality may be even more important than the quality of the paint.

Motorists share a secret: you can use a primer for bumpers from a can. A respirator wouldn't hurt either. In any case, the primer layer must be dried. And it's good if you allocate at least 12 hours for this.

Important: at this stage of work, carefully seal all the unremoved fittings with masking tape!

4. Seal cracks

The item is optional, but many of those who have successfully repainted chipboard furniture regret that they did not use putty before painting. It is recommended to fill dents and scratches in two ways: either using latex putty or using epoxy-based compounds (there are even tips for using a gel coat).

In any case, after puttying, it is necessary to prime and dry the surfaces again.

5. Paint: what to choose and how to apply

Alkyd enamels and polyurethane paints are suitable for repainting over PVC film - it is best to buy a special paintwork material marked “for furniture” so as not to disturb the overall ecology of the apartment. Epoxy enamels usually give a good result, but they take too long to dry and retain a smell. There are many reports of home repainting of MDF and chipboard with acrylic latex compounds - provided that a special primer is used (sometimes even two coats).

For painting work, the craftsmen recommend a velor, rather than a small foam rubber roller - it will paint the surface evenly, neatly, without extra air bubbles. If you decide to paint your shelves or fronts in two coats, let the first coat dry completely.

Treat corners and hard-to-reach nooks and crannies with a bevelled brush.

Professional approach - painting with a spray gun with paint consumption from 60 to 200 grams per square meter. The nozzle diameter and pressure will have to be calculated independently, taking into account the type of paint.

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MDF - fibreboard - is a relatively young material. Its production began in the USA in 1966. In a short period of time, this material has almost completely replaced wood in furniture production.

Furniture fronts have become a common sight in our kitchens, our offices and many other places.

MDF is a medium density material, which is made by pressing (under high pressure and at high temperature) fine chips. Lignin acts as a binding material - a substance of natural origin contained in wood.

Of course, in terms of its strength characteristics, this material is significantly inferior to wood, however, as a material for surface finishing, it is a worthy replacement for it (wood). The main advantages of MDF include the following:

• Good resistance to moisture;
• Heat resistant;
• High surface strength;
• Very technologically advanced and easy to use;
• Low cost;
• Resistant to various microorganisms and fungi.

The use of MDF for finishing furniture facades gave a new impetus to the flight of design ideas and made it possible to significantly expand the possibilities of decorating furniture.

But DDF facades, like facades made of other materials, lose their luster over time. During operation, they may require replacement, or the furniture facades have ceased to harmonize with the respectable appearance of a freshly renovated kitchen. Whatever the reason, there are two possible solutions. Facades need to be either changed or repainted.

Painting MDF facades is a relatively simple matter and does not require any special knowledge from the performer. If you have the desire and the necessary materials and tools, this task is quite capable of being handled by an ordinary person who is not experienced in modern building technologies.

In this article, we will talk about how to paint the facade of MDF with your own hands.

Wood fiber boards lend themselves perfectly to painting. This fact once again confirms the high quality of this material and its high manufacturability. To understand the reasons for such a loyal attitude of the material to the products of the paint and varnish industry, you should pay attention to the main advantages of MDF:

• Due to the homogeneity, naturalness and solidity of the surface, the material does not require additional surface preparation for painting, unlike most existing materials. If there is a layer of old paint on the surface of the fiberboard, then all surface preparation will consist in removing this layer, which will not be difficult and will not take a lot of time;
• The surface of MDF is very resistant to mechanical deformations. Due to this, the surface can not only be painted, but even make minor changes to the surface texture.

We paint MDF on our own

The algorithm for painting a furniture facade from MDF with your own hands includes the following steps:

• Surface preparation;
• Primer;
• Choice of type and color of paint;
• Applying paint.

In the process of performing these operations, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Roller and paint brush;
• Scotch masking;
• Building hair dryer;
• Latex gloves;
• Primer for wood;
• Fine-grained sandpaper.

Surface preparation

First of all, in the process of surface preparation, it is necessary to remove all fittings from it.

As mentioned above, the MDF surface, provided that it does not have mechanical damage, does not require preparation for painting. The layer of old paint must be removed with a building hair dryer. Do not attempt this operation manually - it will take a long time and may cause significant damage to the surface of the material. If there are noticeable mechanical damages on the MDF surface, they can be removed with wood putty. At the end of the preparation process, the surface must be carefully treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

Surface primer

As a primer for an MDF surface, a wood primer is best. The method of applying the primer is entirely up to you. You can use a paint brush, roller or sprayer.

It will take a day for the primer to dry completely.

Choice of paint type and color

When choosing the type of paint for an MDF facade, it is recommended to give preference to auto enamel. Representatives of this relatively new family of paints and varnishes are characterized by high heat and moisture resistance, and are able to create a durable coating.

Modern manufacturers of car enamels offer consumers a wide selection of products in rich colors. There is no doubt that in this kaleidoscope of colors and shades you will be able to choose the best color option for yourself, which will allow furniture facades to harmoniously fit into the interior of your room.

Paint application

Paint selected. The primer is dry. You can proceed to what you started all this for, to apply paint. Seal the areas not intended to be painted, if any, with masking tape and proceed to paint the surface. The method and method of applying the paint is up to you. Paint must be applied in one direction.

As a result, you will get a durable, lacquered or matte coating, depending on the texture of the paint, that will give the furniture facades a new look and will reliably protect them for a long time.

The video shows the painting of MDF facades:

If you are skeptical about your abilities and do not want to take risks, then you should seek help from specialists. But in this case, the price of painting MDF facades will be significantly higher and will range from 1200 to 2000 rubles per square meter of surface.

Furniture facade painting - the second life of your furniture

Furniture in the house is a kind of visiting card of the owners, which presents their taste, financial well-being, and the ability to create comfort.

They select cabinets, sideboards, bedside tables and much more very carefully, paying attention to the smallest details. And if the functionality of furniture has been tested for years, its appearance - color, finish, decorative details, fall in love with at first sight.

But what if the color of the facade does not really fit the design intent, or you need to update the look of your favorite chest of drawers? Then the most correct solution is painting the furniture facade.

Approaches to the choice of paint for furniture facades

Facades made of MDF or solid wood are best suited for painting. The quality and achievement of the desired effect depends on the choice of paint. The paint for painting the facade must be of high quality and meet the requirements for operating conditions.

For furniture, paints are produced with various chemical composition and performance properties:

• oil;
• latex;
• alkyd;
• water-dispersion.

Auto enamels are often used, which are moisture resistant, form a film when coated and do not deteriorate from temperature changes. Such paints are well suited for coating the facades of kitchen furniture.

A wide range of colors and types of coatings (matte, semi-matte, semi-gloss, glossy) for painting furniture is offered by TIKKURILA, MILESI, NEKNOS, SADOLIN, PINOTEX, ALPINA trademarks.

The products of these manufacturers are resistant to moisture and to many chemically aggressive detergents.

The easiest way to change the tone of a light base. If you apply a tinted varnish or stain, you can get a darker color and, at the same time, retain the original structure of the coating.

Advice! For light furniture, a decorative and protective composition is suitable. When applied in several layers, it will change the color of the coating.

When painting a dark facade, you need to be prepared for the fact that the structure of the tree or other base will not be preserved, especially when changing the color to a lighter one.

The possibilities of color solutions are not limited, since the palette of coatings consists of more than 200 colors that can be combined, mixed, and tinted with each other.

Advice! If the palette does not have the required tone, mix the dark and light colors several times in different capacities and proportions. And then check the result on a test surface.

After drying, you can make a choice.

How to paint the furniture facade yourself

The video shows how to paint the furniture facade:

The technology for painting furniture facades is a time-consuming process, but from the point of view of execution it is not very complicated and you can do it yourself.

It is necessary, firstly, to purchase the necessary consumables and tools, secondly, to study all the recommendations, instructions and strictly follow them, and thirdly, to have a clear idea of ​​the desired result.

What tools and materials are needed

How to choose paint has already been determined.

But what about applying it to the surface? You can use spray guns, rollers, brushes. Depends on personal preferences and ability to work with a particular instrument.

Choose rollers and brushes strictly for the type of paint that will be used for painting furniture facades. This is indicated on the packaging.

Advice! A velor roller is suitable for water-based emulsion, and brushes made of natural or combined bristles are suitable for varnishes, acrylic, stain.

You will also need a primer that matches both the type of paint and the surface to be painted.

Painting mdf cabinet. Is it possible?

You also need to prepare masking tape, gloves, sandpaper, felt, a piece of wool, a building hair dryer, a screwdriver, a drill, a marker.

The main stages of painting furniture facades

It will not be difficult to paint the furniture facade on your own if all the work is divided into four stages:

• dismantling;
• surface preparation;
• painting;
• assembly.

Stage one

The entire facade is completely disassembled: doors are removed, fittings, canopies, fasteners, glass inserts are unscrewed.

All surfaces that will not be painted at all or will be covered with a different color are covered with masking tape.

Markers make marks of correspondence between the parts, so as not to confuse them in the future and put everything in its place. Dust and any dirt is removed from the painted parts of the furniture. Places for fastenings and new fittings are determined. To install them, holes are drilled with a drill.

Stage two

The whole result of painting the furniture facade depends on the quality of surface preparation.

This stage is carried out in several steps until a completely smooth surface is obtained:

• if there is an old coating, it is removed with a paint dryer;
• when chips, cracks are found, everything is puttied and sealed;
• polishing is carried out with a material with a grain size of 180;
• the surface is primed with an insulating mixture - a primer;
• after drying, it is polished with a brush with grain 240;
• applying the main soil, which should fill all the pores and completely cover the surface;
• after drying, sanding with 400 grit material.

Stage three

The video shows how the furniture facade is decorated:

The very painting of furniture facades with your own hands is carried out with the selected paint is very simple.

If the coating is applied with a spray gun or from a spray can, care must be taken to protect the respiratory tract. All work is carried out in one direction. After drying the first layer, you can cover the second, then the color will be more saturated.

Both painting and priming can be done with an airbrush, spraying the substance from a distance of 15-20 cm.

If it is supposed to be painted in several colors, then the already painted parts are covered with masking tape. And new ones are painted in a different tone.

The stages of painting the MDF furniture facade are complemented by decoration.

This can be varnishing, glazing (application of glazing), polishing.

Advice! It is better to apply varnish in several layers on the paint and one on the glisal. Each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Stage four

It is started no earlier than the last coating is completely dry.

For example, glisal dries for about a week. All adhesive tape is removed, hinges, handles, fasteners are installed and the facade is mounted in accordance with the marker marks.

After all the work carried out, you will get unique furniture that perfectly suits the interior and design of the room.

It's no secret that the kitchen is the center of every home. And our task with you is not only to plan it competently - in order to spend a minimum of effort and time when cooking - but also to operate it so that its presentation will please us and household members for many years. Most often, the consumer opts for furniture made of chipboard with MDF facades covered with PVC film.

This choice is explained, first of all, by a relatively inexpensive price, as well as a wide choice of configurations and colors. That is, there is an opportunity to satisfy almost any, even very demanding, taste.

Care rules

So, here your beloved and long-awaited kitchen was brought and installed, or you, after poring over the project for a long time, assembled it yourself.

What should be done or what should not be done so that in a couple of months you will not be disappointed with the purchase.

MDF painting technology: materials and nuances

After all, the production technology of such facades, unfortunately, does not have the best effect on their wear resistance: the film may begin to peel off over time, especially along the perimeter. We will announce a few simple operating rules relating specifically to MDF facades covered with PVC film.

1. You can wash the kitchen only with “soft” detergents.

   Never use scouring powders containing abrasives. Well suited for this are various sprays for surfaces (possible for glasses) and a soft sponge, napkin.

2. Avoid extreme temperature fluctuations.

   Try to maintain from +10 to +35 degrees. Lower or higher temperatures may cause peeling of the film. Sooner or later, an open oven, a closely located heated stove, too intense ventilation (especially in winter), and heaters will lead to the same result.

Operation features

Think about it, because PVC film is glued at a temperature of 120 - 180 degrees, and if your oven gives out at least 60 -100 degrees, this already poses a threat to cabinets located nearby.

Install the heat shield.

It protects the ends of the cabinet from heating by the stove and avoids delamination of the edges. Its installation is made to the ends of the cabinet. In care, it is very unpretentious: to remove dirt, it is recommended to wipe with a damp cloth, but it is not recommended to use any cleaning products.

1. Avoid high humidity. If you are still in doubt whether to install a hood or not, then I think now your choice is obvious. Steam from pots, grease from pans will also not have the best effect on your furniture.
2. Water is the enemy of any furniture.

   Make sure that it does not fall on the facades.

3. Close doors and slide drawers carefully, avoiding sudden movements. Do not expose them to mechanical stress (contact with sharp objects, friction, impacts).
4. The close location of lighting devices can lead to excessive heating of the facade and, as a result, deformation of the film, as well as to a change in the color of the cladding. The luminaire and the facade should not be closer to each other than 15 cm.

Do-it-yourself MDF facade repair

What to do if you notice that the PVC film is peeling off.

First of all, if the kitchen is still under warranty, report this unpleasant incident to the seller. He is simply obliged to replace defective kitchen facades with new ones. Perhaps the marriage is related to the quality of the glue with which the film is glued, or its insufficient quantity. Simply put, the manufacturer saved on you. However, the seller may also ask how correctly you exploited the furniture.

If the warranty has already ended, then you can try to fix the defect yourself. Type PVA glue or Moment-type superglue into a medical syringe, you can also use “liquid nails” and carefully glue it under the film.

However, this method can be used if the film has simply peeled off. If it “shrinks”, which most often happens as a result of overheating, then there is little that can be done.

Try to mask it with putty that matches the color. But, despite all your efforts to restore furniture in this case, I cannot guarantee you a good result. The best way out is to order new facades, but keep in mind that they must either be ordered for the entire kitchen at once, since film facade manufacturers do not guarantee an exact match in the color of films from different batches; or discover the designer in you and "play" with the colors of the facades.

For example, if your kitchen is light green, then you can order facades for cabinets on which they need to be replaced in yellow.

As the technology of manufacturing MDF furniture facades in PVC film is mastered, one should not forget about alternative directions for the development of the enterprise, for example, such as painting MDF facades.

The situation in the furniture market is constantly changing and the demands of consumers do not remain unchanged. Therefore, sooner or later, manufacturers of MDF furniture may face the question of how to paint the MDF facade, what equipment and materials will be required, and what technology for painting MDF facades is best suited for this particular enterprise.

Equipment for painting MDF facades

To paint MDF facades, you will need a room with an area of ​​​​at least about 40 square meters.

m with a separate chamber for painting, a place for grinding parts, for drying and for storing blanks and aging finished products. The room must be heated with a temperature of at least 20 degrees. The painting booth should be suitably equipped with an exhaust hood and preferably a rotating table, a drying room with racks, and a sanding area with powerful vacuum cleaners.

To apply coatings and primers, you will need a pneumatic spray gun with a nozzle from 1.5 to 2 mm and a compressor with a receiver of 80-100 liters to it.

For grinding parts, you will need an eccentric vibration grinder, and for polishing, an angle grinder (grinder) with the appropriate nozzles.

Preparing MDF for painting

When choosing MDF for painting, special attention should be paid to the quality of the board, primarily the rise of the pile during processing and the presence of embossing from the molds used in its manufacture.

Milling of MDF facades should be carried out at the highest possible speed of the tool in order to reduce the likelihood of raising the pile.

Since the paint layer of the finished MDF facade remains very fragile, sharp corners should be avoided on the parts, which can be knocked down by careless handling. To do this, they are processed with an edge cutter with a radius of 2-3 mm.

Grinding the details of the MDF facades must be done over the entire plane in order to remove the top protective layer of wax.

For this, an eccentric sander with P 180-240 sandpaper is used. The complex curves of milling MDF facades are easiest to handle with an emery sponge.

If it is planned to paint MDF facades consisting of several components, the gaps formed in the joints must first be puttied with a pore-filling primer.

After complete drying, its residues should be carefully removed with a rag or spatula, and then cleaned with P240-320 emery cloth.

Priming of MDF facades for painting

First of all, complex reliefs of milling or overlaid elements of the surface of the MDF facade are primed.

Then the edge of the part is primed. Further, the entire plane of the MDF facade is covered with soil.

Paint for MDF - a quick way to transform the interior

The movement of the gun is carried out first along and then across the part. Each subsequent layer should overlap the previous one by 50%. All subsequent stages of applying primers, paints and varnishes are carried out in a similar way.

If it is required to paint the MDF furniture facade on both sides, then LKM is first applied to the inside of the facade. After it dries, you can cover the front side.

As a rule, the primer of MDF facades for painting is carried out in 2 stages.

At the first stage, with the help of an airbrush, a layer of insulating primer (80-100 g/sq.m.) is laid down, which should provide protection against the absorption of subsequent layers of paintwork materials and raising the pile. After complete drying, grinding is performed with an emery sponge or P320-400 sandpaper.

It is important that during active grinding do not wipe the soil layer to the MDF.

At the second stage, before painting the MDF facade, a layer of white polyurethane primer is applied 150-200 g/sq.

m. The drying time of this layer can last from 8-10 to 24 hours, depending on the composition of the paintwork used. After drying, sanding with P320-400 sandpaper is performed.

Milling bends and hard-to-reach areas of the MDF facade are polished using Scotch-brite abrasive material.

Painting MDF facades

Painting of MDF facades is carried out with the help of an airbrush with a consumption of paint (enamel) from 60 to 200 g/sq.

m. Setting the nozzle diameter, air pressure, method of spraying, the number of layers and the interval of their application, as a rule, depends on the type of paint used. Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with one or another paint (enamel), you should carefully study the instructions for its use.

Complex ready-made compositions of paintwork materials with various special effects should be thoroughly mixed beforehand, since the decorative component of the paint can settle in a solid suspension at the bottom of the can.

You also need to make sure that the decorative additives will pass freely through the nozzle of the gun.

During painting and varnishing, it is important to exclude all possibilities of dust, debris or insects getting on the surface of the MDF facades. If this still happened, you must have tweezers or a needle on hand.

Significant and highly visible smudges of paint (primer) are removed after drying by cutting with a clerical knife, and then carefully cleaned with sandpaper.

Patination of painted MDF facades

As a rule, patina is used on matte colors of MDF facades with complex elements of surface and edge milling.

The patinating composition is applied without prior priming over the paint layer using an airbrush, roller, brush, foam rubber, swab or other tool. After drying, excess patina is removed by sanding with P320-400 abrasive materials or Scotch-brite sandpaper.

After a thorough cleaning of the MDF facade from dust, the paint layer and patina are covered with acrylic matte varnish (130-150 g / sq. M) and sent for drying. After 12-24 hours, the matte MDF facade can be packed and sent for storage.

Covering the facade of MDF after painting with varnish and polishing.

In order to give the surface of the MDF facade high resistance to mechanical damage, and freshness and depth to the paints, it should be coated with acrylic transparent glossy varnish.

Lacquer is applied in two layers 120-150 g/sq. m, in two doses with an interval that ensures the drying of the first layer (according to the instructions).

Varnished MDF facades are sent to dry. After 1-2 days, you can start grinding, and after 5-7 days, polishing and finishing the product.

Grinding the dried layer of varnish using an eccentric sander begins with the processing of the facade with P1200-1500 sandpaper and ends with P3000-4000.

At the same time, the surface of the facade must be periodically sprayed with water to prevent overheating and rolling of varnish particles. At the end of grinding, a uniform, uniform matte surface should be obtained.

For polishing MDF facades, an angle grinder with a hard (Novol white) foam rubber wheel and Bril-852 abrasive paste are used.

After applying the paste to the surface of the facade, it is necessary to rub it over the area with a machine at low speed. Then, increasing the speed of the machine to 1500-2000, proceed directly to polishing. It is important to smoothly move the circle from one edge to the other, first horizontally and then vertically.

The polishing wheel should be slightly moistened. In addition, for a greater effect, experts recommend applying a little furniture wax to the circle.

To finish the gloss, you will need SiashineFINISH non-abrasive paste and a soft (Black Novol) foam pad for polishing. The result should be a facade with a mirror surface.

Packaging and storage of painted MDF facades

The best option for packaging painted MDF facades will be polyethylene foam plus corrugated cardboard.

On the one hand, they will well protect products from mechanical damage. On the other hand, some coatings continue to emit vapors of chemical compounds for some time, which condense on the surface of the facade when packaged in ordinary polyethylene and leave spots on the gloss.

This combination of packaging material makes it possible to dissipate the vapors accompanying the drying process even after storage.

The effectiveness of painting MDF facades

It is quite difficult to determine the benefits from the manufacture of painted MDF facades if the manufacturer is not exclusively engaged in their production and sale.

According to various sources, the average cost of 1 square. m glossy facade is 60-80 dollars. The main share of the costs falls on the wages of skilled workers, since the technology for painting MDF facades is based on manual labor (priming, grinding, painting, polishing), and the entire production cycle sometimes reaches 10 or more days.

In conclusion, I would like to say that the technology for painting MDF facades may differ at different enterprises, since a huge number of primers, paints, enamels, varnishes and other materials are presented on the modern market, which are strikingly different from each other in their technological properties.

For example, recently it has become fashionable to use automotive primers and enamels when painting MDF facades. But before you paint the facade of the kitchen, it is worth remembering that the car and the kitchen have completely different functions, and it’s not a fact that car enamel is so harmless that it can be “consumed” with food.

Therefore, before painting the MDF facade with an unknown paint, it is still worth exploring the paintwork market.

Fortunately, there are plenty of companies producing primers, paints, enamels and varnishes for working specifically on MDF. Here is a list of some well-established brands:

• Paintwork: Sayerlack, Votteler, Sivam, Tikkurila, Teknos, Sirca, PaliWood UM;
• Patina: Sayerlack, Borma, HesseLignal
• Polishing pastes: 3M Perfect, Bril-852, Menzerna, Siashine FINISH.

Almost every owner or hostess periodically has a desire to change something in the ordinary interior of their apartment or private house. However, only by rearranging furniture and other interior items, unfortunately, it is not always possible to achieve the desired result.

In such cases, not only moving objects usually helps, but also changing their appearance by painting them in other colors. Since the vast majority of furniture is made from commonly available and inexpensive materials such as MDF, the question often arises of how to repaint MDF furniture yourself without involving third-party specialists.

Changing the color of all furniture or its individual components can radically change the appearance of the room and give it a new twist. In order to do this work with your own hands, it is not at all necessary to have special practical skills or sophisticated factory equipment. It is enough to purchase the necessary paints and varnishes, prepare the tool and you can get to work.

Tools and materials needed for painting

To change the appearance of furniture, you will need to prepare in advance all the material and tools in the right amount, as well as set aside a little time so that the work goes without haste and hitches.

For the interior you will need:

• paint, one or more colors depending on your idea;
• putty on wood, for partial repair and sealing of butt cracks;
• container for paint;
• masking tape of the required width;
• roller with a small length of pile;
• flat brush;
• protective gloves for hands;
• respirator to protect the respiratory tract from toxic secretions of fresh paint;
• protective glasses.

In some cases, laminated MDF may come in handy, then a primer on a laminated surface is not required. Before you paint MDF furniture, also prepare sandpaper, it may be needed to clean the putty and end surfaces. It is important to approach the process of surface preparation with special responsibility, since the final result of painting depends on this stage of work.

What paints and varnishes to choose for work

Before proceeding with the painting work, it is necessary to accurately determine the desired end result in advance. Based on this, choose the appropriate coverage.

The substances used for decorating furniture can be divided into two main types:

• transparent;
• opaque.

Opaque substances are used to create a protective layer and enhance the natural color of wood through the use of special pigments in them.

These substances include:

• azure;
• drying oil.

The price of these coatings is significantly higher than that of pigment paints and they are mainly used for expensive furniture made from pure wood of expensive species. If the furniture is made of ordinary MDF or other similar materials, then products based on acrylic, latex or polyurethane can also be used.

Tip: If the pieces of furniture are old enough and have minor scratches, then water or oil-based compounds are used to finish them.
Painted MDF furniture using water-based paints looks very beautiful, and is quite expensive.

Recently, alkyd mixtures have become popular, since they are easily applied to the surface, dry quickly, but, unfortunately, have a relatively short service life compared to oil or water.

Polyurethane-based substances are also actively used, which are easy to use, have a long service life, but emit toxic substances during operation and require ventilation of the room. It is important to remember that each composition has instructions that indicate how to properly apply the composition to the surface and under what conditions it can be used.

Surface preparation for painting

This is the most important part of the whole event, on which the whole final result depends. Many people often ask the question, is it possible to paint MDF furniture without prior preparation?

It is possible, but not recommended, since in this case the paint may adhere poorly to the surface and, when used under conditions of frequent mechanical stress or temperature changes, such a coating will very quickly become unusable, crack and may completely peel off.

1. For preparation, it is necessary to treat the surface with sandpaper to create a rough surface. If there are large cracks or scratches, then it is advisable to fill them in and sand them again to eliminate differences and irregularities. The purpose of sanding is to eliminate the smoothness of the surface, which negatively affects adhesion.

1. After preliminary preparation, a primer is applied to the treated area. The primer will provide the surface with additional adhesion and significantly reduce the consumption of paints and varnishes.
2. Also, the primer allows you to create a kind of barrier between the paint and the natural substances of the wood itself, which, when released, can affect the quality of the adhesion of the layers and lead to sad results.

The process of applying paint to the surface

The process of applying a decorative composition is as simple as possible, but it has its own characteristics:

• it is recommended to apply layers to the surface strictly in one direction;
• the last layer must be applied along the processed web;

• do not start applying the second layer until the first is completely dry;
• the surface to be treated must be completely dry and free from grease;
• try not to apply more than two coats of paint.

Tip: If the wood is used with high voltage appliances, then Zinga conductive paint is used in such cases, which will provide additional insulation from electric current.

Conclusion

If the furniture is located in close proximity to the fire, then fire-retardant paints for metal Polistil can be used, which fit well on the prepared wooden surface and protect against deformation and damage when exposed to high temperatures.

You will find even more interesting information in the video in this article.