Instructions for bleeding air in radiators. How to bleed air from a heating radiator: step by step instructions with photos and videos We bleed air from an old battery with a plug

The Mayevsky crane, strictly speaking, is a radiator needle air valve, designed to bleed air from the heating system. Initially, its purpose was to stop the illegal and dangerous intake of coolant by residents for domestic needs. Given the lack of a normal centralized hot water supply, this was a general problem, both at the beginning of the last century and now, unfortunately. Now Mayevsky's crane is more in demand due to its ease of use and its compact size.

It is possible to bleed air from radiators and other parts of the heating system using any shut-off valve, however, a conventional ball valve is simply too large and having it on every radiator in the house will look unsightly, and their installation costs are too high. A tiny valve, for venting only, hidden in a small plug, usually no more than one inch in diameter, much more aesthetically pleasing and more practical.

Safety is also not in the last place. Any full-fledged valve has too high a capacity. Leaving the valve open from last season, you can seriously spoil the repair in the apartment by flooding it with water. With the Mayevsky crane, everything is easier. It cannot be accidentally opened, so the children will not be able to simply run past and make a flood. The small section of the channel will limit the amount of water flowing out.

Device and principle of operation

The design and principle of operation are almost completely described in the official name of the Mayevsky crane. This is a needle valve with a cone-shaped stem that closes the through channel in the device. Inside the valve there is a thin hole for air release, which opens only when you start to unscrew the stem.

To open the air vent, you will need a special key or a regular slotted (flat) screwdriver. After completing a half or full turn, a thin channel opens between the contents of the radiator or pipe and the external environment. Due to the high pressure inside the heating system, air and coolant are released outside, and not vice versa. If air has accumulated at the installation site, then it will come out first, and then water.

The Mayevsky crane is made of brass, resistant to corrosion, which ensures a long service life. More often it is a plug made with an external thread of ½ or ¾ inch, equipped with a needle valve.

Scheme of operation of an automatic crane

How to use and how to bleed the battery

The Mayevsky crane, depending on the heating design, is installed in places where air can accumulate and create an obstacle to the flow of water. When filling the heating with a new portion of the coolant or during operation, if necessary, the air should be bled. For this you need:

1. Prepare any container of 2 liters or more or a rag, sponge, anything that absorbs water. Place them directly under the outlet of the Mayevsky crane.
2. Open the faucet so that the hiss of the escaping air can be heard.
3. When all the air is out, when only water is flowing, close the faucet.

Common mistake in practice- gradually, when the air is released, the coolant begins to be sucked in, and it comes out in portions. However, this does not mean that it is time to turn off the faucet. It is possible to determine that there is no air left only if the water comes out evenly and without splashes. A container or rag will do just fine with this small amount of water before you can turn off the faucet.

It is necessary to repeat the air release procedure at all points where the Mayevsky crane is installed. In houses with two or more floors, the air descends first from the lower radiators, and then from the upper ones.

Auto

By itself, the Mayevsky faucet cannot automatically vent; this device is exclusively for manual venting of gases. However, with the same principle, automatic air vents are developed and produced, whose principle of operation is similar to the Mayevsky crane, and they do most of the work on their own.

The automatic air valve has a small chamber, oriented strictly vertically, for the accumulation of air. Inside the chamber there is a float connected by a rigid link to a needle valve located at the top of the device. As soon as the level of the air layer exceeds the permissible limit, the valve opens briefly and the air is released. Since the float also rises, the valve quickly returns to its seat and prevents the coolant from flowing out.

Automatic gas outlet is an indispensable element in an autonomous closed heating system. During the inevitable process of corrosion, the release of air bubbles from water or during the reaction of aluminum with water, if there is direct contact between them, gas pockets accumulate that can block the path of the coolant or cause an excess of permissible pressure. Air removal solves these problems, moreover, without the participation of residents.

Specifications

On sale there are Mayevsky taps for ¼, ½, ¾ inch thread. It is necessary to determine in advance the type of housing that the radiators are equipped with in order to determine the optimal size. For cast-iron radiators, as well as welded pipe registers, you will have to additionally drill a hole in the side plug or directly in the pipe and cut the thread. Separately from the Mayevsky tap, ready-made plugs for typical cast-iron radiators are sold.

For ease of use, modern models of the Mayevsky crane are equipped with a handle with a side outlet.

A conventional valve with manual air release is usually installed in a horizontal position, an automatic air valve - strictly vertically, or specified by the manufacturer in the case of an angled design.

Installation

The Mayevsky crane is installed only on the upper floors and upper radiators in the case of a vertical radiator connection, as in most apartment buildings. Air from the lower floors, with sufficient pressure of the coolant, is independently removed from the radiators, accumulating in the upper part of the entire system.

For horizontal wiring, all radiators should be equipped with air vent valves, since independent air exhaust is difficult. If a radiator starts to heat up less at a high temperature of the coolant, then it's time to bleed the air.

It is mandatory to install a Mayevsky faucet on a heated towel rail, since most of it is above the level of the radiators.

For an underfloor heating system, it is better to organize air release on a collector group raised above the floor level and using an automatic air vent, since it is difficult to guess or diagnose the presence of air in this case.

Installation of the Mayevsky crane is carried out in the off-season. It is necessary to drain the coolant from the system and only then proceed with the installation. For modern radiators, it is enough to unscrew the plug at the section extreme from the water supply connection point and screw the tap instead. For cast iron radiators, you must first screw in a plug with a prepared hole and thread.

For a heated towel rail and register radiators, it is easiest to use a Mayevsky tap, made in the form of a tee, one of the branches of which is an air vent. It is cut or screwed at the top connection point of the heated towel rail.

Dear neighbors, if the radiators in your apartment are not warm enough, just bleed the air that interferes with the circulation of hot water.

In this case, there is no need to pester the developer or the management company, the airiness of the battery is a common occurrence.

The houses on Sochinskaya Street are equipped with a “smart” system that can recognize the release of water from the battery as an accident - a rush and block the circulation, that is, the whole house can be left without heating!

What is battery airflow and how to determine it?

If you notice that the batteries do not heat up to full capacity, although yesterday the whole system was working perfectly and the house was warm, the problem is probably that you only need to bleed the air from the battery that is not quite hot. This article will tell you in detail how to bleed the air from the battery.

Before bleeding air, you need to make sure that this is really the cause of the system failure.

To begin with, check all the batteries: if they are all too cold or, on the contrary, too hot, there may be a problem directly in the heater, or maybe another sediment has accumulated in the batteries. Also watch for water dripping from the batteries. It is possible that there is a leak in the battery, then you just need to turn off the heating system and tighten the nut on the battery inlet valve.

If the situation does not change as a result of the actions taken, the nut may have corroded and must be replaced. There are times when on the upper floors the batteries remain cold, while on the floor below the batteries are very well heated. In such cases, it is advisable to call a master who specializes in this area.

And if, as a result of a detailed examination of the heating system, you did not find any other problems, except that some kind of battery is partially or completely cold, then you just need to understand how to bleed air from the battery.

How to properly bleed air from the battery?

In order to release air from the heating battery, use a special key that can be used to open the “air valve”.

Most often, in such cases, a special radiator key is used, which can be purchased at a hardware store. Modern batteries allow you to use a screwdriver for such purposes.

Now that you have a wrench or a screwdriver, as well as a container for draining water, inspect the battery and on either side, find a small valve, which is popularly called the Mayevsky tap.

Place a container under the faucet and wait until all excess air has escaped. As soon as the water flows, the first drop will fall - the tap should be closed. Now all the air in the batteries is deflated, and the valve can be screwed into its original position.

Special video instructions and training materials will help you bleed the air from the radiator The question of how to bleed the air from the heating radiator arises almost every year. Without this procedure, the owner of both apartments and private houses will simply freeze in their premises. At the beginning of the heating season, problems such as cold or noisy systems appear, and they can arise even in the case of perfectly carried out installation. In order to not only identify, but also eliminate such problems, it is necessary to carry out preventive work to eliminate airing.

Signs of air accumulation: how to bleed air from the battery

Determining whether your batteries are airtight is not difficult.

This is evidenced by the following signs:

• Heat transfer has noticeably decreased (radiators that were previously hot stopped heating up);
• You began to notice the presence of noise, cod, murmur and a decrease in pressure in the pipes;
• If you have autonomous heating, then an increase in fuel consumption will become apparent;
• The liquid has stopped moving in the system, the circulation is disturbed.

The presence of air in the radiators threatens not only with a decrease in the temperature indicator, but also with more global problems. For example, batteries made of steel begin to oxidize, rust and fail. Bottlenecks silt up and need to be flushed or completely replaced. If your heating is individual, then the accumulated gas in the system can lead to the failure of the circulation pump, because in the normal state the bearings are constantly in the water. In case of airing, the unit is subjected to dry friction, which causes excessive heating and shaft failure.

Why the system airs and how to air the heating system

Before you learn how to eliminate the plug from the system, you need to clarify the reason for its formation.

The most common factors are:

• Incorrect installation work;
• Incorrect heading or tilt angle
• The pressure is low, which leads to the formation of a void;
• The natural process of gas formation in the process of heating water;
• The system was not properly filled after installation;
• The tightness at the joints was broken;
• The underfloor heating system was not properly connected;
• Corrosion eats inside radiators and pipes;
• The coolant has too much speed;
• The air intakes are out of order.

It should be noted that in aluminum-type radiators, which are installed in apartment buildings, air locks are the most common problem. In this situation, it is more reasonable to install bimetallic installations, cast iron or steel. A temporary solution to the problem may be the installation of an automatic air vent.

With what and how to bleed air from a heating radiator

In order to control the gas content of the system both in an apartment and in a private house, a manual or automatic air release valve is used. They should be considered in more detail.

These include:

• Automatic air valve;
• Air separator;
• Mayevsky crane.

The automatic air valve is able to independently release the air that has accumulated in the radiator. It consists of a brass body, float, articulated arm and valve. A special cap protects against leakage, and protection under the spring protects against external contaminants.

The system works according to the following principle:

• As long as there is no air, the float keeps the valve closed;
• In the process of gas accumulation, the float begins to lower and gradually open the valve;
• The accumulation of air leaves the compartments, and the system returns to its original state.

It is important to note the fact that all automatic options are equipped with connectors that are suitable for a screwdriver or octagonal keys. Thanks to this shape, you can open the valve even in manual mode if the automatic mode suddenly breaks.

As for the air separator, this system is a little more complicated. The principle of its action is to absorb air, turn it into bubbles and bring it out. Most often, separators are combined with sludge, which is able to trap dirt, sand or rust. If we talk about the design, then it is presented in the form of a metal cylinder, which includes an air outlet at the top and a valve at the bottom, which serves to discharge foreign contaminants. Inside such an installation is a grid that creates a vortex flow.

The same method is used if there is a water circuit that is connected to the heating. The release in the water supply is carried out as bleeding. That is, through the bleeder, you can also release a stream of air or water with impurities.

Mayevsky crane: how to bleed air

Maevsky's crane should be given special attention. This is a needle type radiator unit which includes air valve, screw and cone shaped body in a unique design. All these parts are hermetically sealed to each other, which completely eliminates the flow of water. As for the air that may be in the radiator, it exits through a small hole located on the side of the tap. Such an installation can be opened using a special key, which is always included in the kit, but if there is none, then you can use a regular screwdriver, and some models provide manual opening.

If we take into account the modern bimetallic installation, then they already have holes for mounting cranes. The Mayevsky crane itself must be installed in such a way that the air outlet tube is located on the opposite side, and is parallel to the floor.

If your batteries are made of cast iron, then automatic air vents are best suited here. They correspond to the features of the design and composition of the material.

In order to use the Mayevsky crane to remove air, you must follow a sequence of certain actions.

Namely:

• Prepare keys or a screwdriver, a container for liquid and a rag;
• If your system includes a pump, then it must be temporarily disabled;
• Place the container under the tap and gently turn it counterclockwise;
• Air will begin to descend from the faucet, possibly including dirt or rust;
• You need to wait until water flows from the tap, and turn it off.

If the water quality is not the best, then you need to install a few additional shut-off valves. They should be located before the Mayevsky tap and protect it from possible blockages.

How to remove an airlock from the heating system in a private house

It is more difficult to get rid of an airlock in the autonomous heating system of a private house.

To do this, you will need to do the following:

1. Determine the location of the plug. A murmuring noise, a cold area, will indicate its place.
2. Move up to the nearest valve. The tap should be slightly opened and gradually bleed the air.
3. If this method does not work, you can try to increase the pressure and temperature of the heat carrier. In most cases, the plug will begin to move and can be removed through the faucet. The work must be done very carefully, as I have a chance of getting burned from steam or hot water.

If joints are not installed in your system, then you will have to drain all the fluid from the system and refill it. In addition, a common cause of airing in a private house is a warm floor, which is attached to radiators.

To blow out the plug or simply to expel excess air accumulation in the heating system, a special device can help, it is called a bleeder or a bleeder. It works on the same principle as the bleed valves, which help to expel or completely remove airiness.

Removing gas formation in batteries is a very important procedure. How exactly to vent the system, bleed the air plug, clean the radiators and restore the flow of water supply, you can also find out in the video. It will be especially useful for owners of a boiler who want to push air in a system that has been aired.

heatclass.ru

Causes of air in the system

Winter is on the threshold, the beginning of the heating season is approaching ... Finally, the long-awaited day has come when the house will become warm and comfortable, but, unfortunately, the rooms are still cool: the radiators are hot below, completely cold in the upper part.

This is due to an airlock in the heating system.

There may be several reasons for its appearance:

1. there is dissolved air in the water - in the process of heating the water, air begins to be released in the form of bubbles. They rise to the upper parts of the pipelines, accumulating there, thereby creating air locks;
2. airing occurs during the repair of pipelines and subsequent assembly;
3. incorrect filling - the system must be filled slowly, simultaneously removing air from distributors, radiators. It is necessary to act according to the following principle: the more extensive and branched out the system, the slower it should be filled;
4. poor tightness - not very large flaws in the system are difficult to notice, for example, a leak at the connecting joint is hardly noticeable, since hot water quickly evaporates. It is through such leaks that air is sucked into the heating system.

Source: stroy-aqua.com

How to determine the places of airing?

As you know, with air "plugs" in the heating system, extraneous sounds may appear (for example, gurgling in the pipeline, water flowing).

The location of the plug can be determined by gently tapping the pipes and heaters. Where the sound of impact is the most sonorous, and an air pocket formed.

Ways to remove air from water heating systems

Since heating can be both with natural and forced circulation of the coolant, the air in the heating system can also be bled in different ways.

For systems with natural circulation(upper piping is considered) the air lock can be removed through the expansion tank, which should be at the highest point relative to the entire system.

The supply pipeline should be laid with a rise to the tank. If the wiring is lower, air removal should be provided in the same way as in a heating system with a circulation pump.

For forced circulation systems an air collector should be provided - at the highest point, which will be responsible for air release.

The supply pipeline in this case is laid with a rise in the direction of movement of the coolant, and air bubbles, rising along the riser, are removed from the heating system through air valves, which must be installed at the highest point.

In any case, the return pipelines should be laid with a certain slope - towards the drain of the water, in order to speed up the emptying of the pipes during repair work.

V closed heating systems automatic air vents are provided - they are installed at several points along the pipeline line, air discharge from which is carried out separately.

If the installation of the heating system and the laying of pipes at the required slope are done correctly, then bleeding through the "air vents" will be simple and not entail any problems.

I would like to note that the removal of air from the pipes is accompanied by an increase in the flow rate of the coolant and an increase in pressure in them. In the case of airing the heating batteries, there may be poor tightness of the heating pipelines or an uneven temperature difference.

Very often, in residential buildings equipped with an autonomous boiler with an open heating system, water can be discharged directly through the expansion tank: after emptying, it is advisable to wait at least half an hour and only then open the "vent" on the tank - all the air will come out on its own when the water temperature in the system rises .

Where are air vents installed?

The main ("critical") points of installation of air vents are:

• Kinks in the piping system ("elbow", turn).
• The highest marks of the location of pipelines.

Varieties of air vents

Air vents can be manual or automatic.

Manual

This includes the Mayevsky crane, which has a small size. The place of its installation is at the end of the heating device. Adjusting the Mayevsky crane is quite simple - manually, with a key or a screwdriver.

Since the dimensions of the crane are small, its performance is low, therefore, such an “air vent” can only be used for local removal of air “plugs”.

Source: ultra-term.ru

Automatic

These models generally do not need human presence. The automatic air vent consists of:

• corps;
• float;
• rocker arms;
• spool.

Its principle of operation is based on the displacement of gas when it enters the chamber of the device.

The float mechanism moves in the chamber. If there is no air in the system, then it is located at the highest point. The spool is connected to the float using a rocker arm. The spool closes the air nipple until air enters the system. The spool is fixed under the action of a spring.

Automatic air vent valve mounted vertically. The air outlet must point upwards. As a rule, an air vent is installed at the highest point of any system, since gas (air) is lighter than water and rises.

The device is mounted simply. For this you will need a wrench. With its help, the air vent is screwed into the threaded connector using sealing means. It is necessary to tighten directly behind the hexagon on the tap body, otherwise the device may be damaged.

When installing the automatic air vent, the air valve closed with a cap to avoid damage.

In order to further conveniently operate the device, it is recommended to install it after the shut-off valve. In this case, the air vent can be uninstalled without draining the fluid from the system.

Source: flamcorus.ru

How to bleed air from a heating radiator using a Mayevsky tap?

When bleeding air from the radiator, it is necessary to unscrew the valve with one hand, and hold the rag with the other so that water does not get on the floor. First, hissing will go, and when water appears in the form of a small trickle or drops, depending on the pressure in the system, you need to screw the valve back.

There is no need to be afraid that your entire apartment will be flooded, since the hole in the tap is very small.

Unscrewing the valve in most cases is enough for one turn, is no longer needed, since the flow of air and water is limited by the opening of the tap itself. And if you unscrew it completely, then there is a chance that you will hardly screw it back in due to the high water pressure. That is, the principle of operation of the Mayevsky crane is quite simple.

It is better not to install Mayevsky automatic taps on old cast-iron radiators when using a central heating system, since the water in it is most often dirty and with a tap opening of only 2 mm, you will often have to remove it and clean it with a sewing needle or pin for its normal functioning.

Mayevsky taps are most often installed either on the upper parts of heating radiators, in other words, batteries, opposite the upper connection of a pipe or thermostat, since air always tends to the highest point, or on a heated towel rail.

The Mayevsky crane is installed by screwing it into the radiator cap. You just need to choose the right thread size 1 inch, ¾ inch or ½ inch. If there is no tap hole, the plug must be replaced.

Buy faucets with a rubber or silicone gasket, but for better reliability, you can also use linen or a special tape to seal the threaded connection.

When installing or replacing a faucet, it is necessary to hold the plug itself with a key, since it must be remembered that left-hand threads are used on all plugs and radiator plugs.

As a result, by screwing in the air vent, you loosen the heating radiator plug and, conversely, when the air vent is unscrewed, the plug is tightened.

Source: eurosantehnik.ru

Problems of aluminum radiators

Aluminum of even the highest quality heating devices can react with the coolant, followed by the release of hydrogen. The intensity of this process depends on the quality of the coolant (its pH level), the heating temperature, and also on the presence in the heating system of individual parts and elements made of steel, which is the cause of the process of electrochemical corrosion of aluminum.

To protect against corrosion, the metal is covered from the inside with a layer of protective film, the effect of which weakens over time, and then completely stops. This means that when installing aluminum radiators, the process of hydrogen evolution, which can also create air pockets and block the movement of the coolant is inevitable.

It's all about time: the appearance of hydrogen can begin literally from the first days of operation of the heating device, or it can be "late" for several years, or even decades.

The danger of aluminum radiators is also that the process of hydrogen evolution can proceed at a high speed, at which the gas does not have time to rise up and forms high pressure zones that can completely disable the heating system.

Pipes and radiators burst and cannot be restored.

To remove air pockets from single-pipe heating systems, as well as from heating systems with aluminum radiators, air vents of various designs are used, which are installed in places where air pockets are most likely to form.

Source: aquagroup.ru

How to remove an airlock from an aluminum heating radiator?

To date, radiators are most often changed according to one simple standard scheme.

Two taps are installed on the radiators to turn off, and a jumper is mounted in front of them, or as some call it, a bypass. By the way, it is not recommended to install a crane on a jumper. If you install it and have no idea how the heating system works, then you can regularly block the circulation of water in the pipes on all floors of your house.

For these actions, you can quarrel very strongly with local plumbers from your management company. Instead of installing a faucet, the jumper is made with a pipe of a smaller diameter than the main pipes suitable for the radiator. Thus, the main flow of hot water passes through the battery, heating your room as much as possible.


In those cases when the room becomes hot, the radiator can be turned off, shut off any (upper or lower) faucet, thereby stopping the circulation of water in it. You can also close both taps at once, nothing bad will happen, but more often this is done when they want to remove the radiator.

How do you bleed air from the radiator? The procedure is quite simple, for this there is a Mayevsky crane. A small "pimpochka" located on top of the radiator on the opposite side of the incoming pipes. The air faucet comes with a small plastic wrench. If there is no special key, you can use an ordinary screwdriver.

How to understand that you need to bleed air and how often to do it?

It is very easy to determine whether there is air in the radiators or not; during the heating season, if you notice that half of the radiator is warming up and half is cold, then there is air in it.

Most often, airing occurs after turning off the heating in the house, for repair work.

The procedure for airing the radiator is as follows: the upper shut-off valve on the radiator is closed, the lower one is open. Some kind of container, for example, a mug, is substituted for the water drain spout, and the Mayevsky tap itself opens.

We wait until water flows from the spout in an even stream without admixture of air. Flowed? Spill a small amount of water, perhaps more air will come out and you can close it. When finished, do not forget to open the tap on the battery.

Source: goldhands-blog.ru

What to do if it doesn't help?

There are situations when even after the air is released, the battery does not have the necessary heating. Or the radiator heats up, but not for long. In this case, the batteries must be flushed or purged.

If the heating system installed offline, then it is necessary to check its full filling. If water acts as a heat carrier, then it expands rather quickly. When the temperature drops, the water may not be enough.

Often in houses with an autonomous heating system, it is necessary to drain water through an expansion tank. It is always located at the highest point of the heating system. But before draining the water, you need to open the valves and turn off the house from heating.

Next, you need to wait half an hour, and only then you can open the tap on the expansion tank. You will hear the flow of water by the characteristic noise. Usually the airlock comes out on its own when the temperature rises. If its exit is difficult, bring the water in the heating system to a boil. So the air will definitely come out.

Source: livelibru.ru

qualityvolife.club

We release air from the battery - what needs to be prepared

Before performing the procedure, prepare everything you need:

• radiator key. Sold in a hardware store. It must fit the size of the battery. You can explore your toolbox. Take a small wrench of a suitable size, wrench, or other tool from the kit. An ordinary screwdriver is suitable for bleeding air from modern radiators;
• large wide basin or bucket. You will pour water into the container;
• rags. Spread them on the floor near the radiator so as not to flood the neighbors, you never know what happens.

Lightly tap the radiator with a hammer before bleeding. If you hear too loud a sound in some place, the cork is here.

We lower the air from the battery with the Mayevsky crane

Mayevsky's crane is located on the battery at the top. Some models have a plastic handle, no tools are required to open the faucet. Before venting air in the radiator with a Mayevsky tap, do not block the entire riser of the heating system and do not wait until the coolant has cooled down. This work is useless and reduces the effectiveness of the fight against traffic jams, as the pressure in the system will drop.

Procedure:

• substitute a basin under the tap to collect the coolant;
• put rags on the air vent. The liquid will be absorbed into the rags and will begin to drain smoothly;
• smoothly unscrew the tap with a key or by the plastic handle. Hear a whistle or hiss, it's air coming out;
• wait until a steady stream of water begins to flow. This indicates that you have broken an airlock. This will take 5 to 7 minutes. Experts recommend draining up to two buckets of water;
• close the valve.

We bleed air from the battery with an automatic air vent

This device operates in stand-alone mode and is mounted horizontally or vertically on a battery. Removal of air congestion occurs without your participation. A special float is installed on the air vent. It hermetically covers the tap if there is enough water in the system. As soon as air accumulates, the float lowers, the hole opens and the gas escapes. But the device has a drawback. It is very sensitive to water quality. If there are impurities in the coolant, the mechanism breaks. Therefore, use filters and periodically change the o-ring. Also, clean the valve regularly, otherwise water will leak from the battery. If you take care of the device, you won’t have to deal with air jams on your own.

We bleed air from the old battery with a plug

Old cast-iron batteries usually have plugs, if you have not changed them to Mayevsky taps. The work ahead is difficult, the plugs are fixed with tow and paint. First you need to turn off the heating system. For work, prepare an adjustable or gas key. Your next steps are:

• put a rag on the floor;
• put a bucket under the tap;
• slowly and carefully unscrew the plug with a wrench. If it doesn’t work, apply a special lubricant or a little solvent to the thread;
• after the air has escaped and the water has drained, wrap the thread of the plug with flax or FUM tape and tighten it. This will prevent possible water leaks.

We bleed air from the battery in a private house

In the heating system of a private house, air is released using an expansion tank. It is located at the highest heating point. After draining the water, wait a little and unscrew the tap on the tank. The cork will come out by itself, because the temperature rises. If there is no positive result, bring the water in the circuit to a boil and the air will definitely come out.

Timely removal of air pockets from the batteries improves the efficiency of the heating system. After the right actions in your apartment will noticeably warmer. The work is simple, but if you have any difficulties, call the experts.

sovetclub.ru

Why is an air lock in a radiator dangerous?

If there is air in the battery, nothing good will come of it. Excess air is an obstacle to the normal functioning of the system. And it can also cause corrosion on the walls of the radiator.

If a circulation pump is installed in the circuit, an air lock can also disrupt its operation. When the system is functioning correctly, the plain bearings on the shaft of the pump unit are constantly in the water. And in the presence of air, the effect of "dry friction" occurs, which negatively affects the sliding rings, and can damage the shaft. Therefore, it is important to know how to expel air from the heating system at home. Measures taken in time will help prevent damage to the heating network.

How to understand that there is an airlock in the battery?

Before you release air from the heating system, you need to figure out why it is formed in the circuit and how to understand that there is an air lock in the radiator. Most often, excess air accumulates as a result of improper filling of the system with water. The reason may also be the result of errors made during installation. Low pressure in the circuit, low-quality coolant with the presence of dissolved oxygen can also lead to airing.

Air lock can also occur under such circumstances:

The following signs may indicate that excess air has accumulated in the system: hissing and gurgling sounds in the battery, the quality of heating decreases, heating becomes uneven, and the radiator may be cold in areas where air is present.

Such situations are not uncommon. Surely every owner of an apartment or a private house faced a similar problem. Therefore, it is important to figure out how to remove air from the heating system at home, especially since it is not at all difficult to do it yourself. It should be noted that most often an air lock is formed in batteries that are installed on the upper floors of the house.

In this case, no matter how much you bleed excess air, it will form again. And the reason lies in the fact that the material from which the battery is made contributes to the formation of gases. There is only one way out of the situation - to buy a new radiator. Therefore, it is better to immediately purchase heaters from conscientious manufacturers.

How to remove excess air from the battery?

Before you bleed air from the heating system, you need to understand the features of this procedure well and prepare all the necessary tools and materials. Consider how to remove air from the heating system in more detail. For such work, you will need a special key with which you can open the air valve on the radiator.

A radiator wrench is best. It is sold at any hardware store. If a modern battery is installed, you can take a simple screwdriver. It is also necessary to prepare a container into which the coolant will merge. And also have a couple of rags nearby in case of unforeseen situations.

The algorithm of actions on how to properly bleed air from the heating system is given below:

In addition to Mayevsky taps, automated air vents for heating systems are often used, which bleed excess air on their own. Such automatic units are compact and reliable. But at the same time, you have to be extremely careful. After all, the valve works without supervision. And the slightest violation in the process can cause flooding of the attic or riser.

Some nuances

There are situations when the masters, when installing the heating system, do not install special valves to release excess air. Let's consider how to release air from the radiator in this case. To work, you will need an adjustable or gas wrench. Use it to open the cap. This must be done very slowly. Sometimes the plug won't open. Most often this happens if the battery is cast iron. In this case, it is necessary to apply a special lubricant to the thread and after a while try again.

When the plug is unscrewed, the same algorithm of actions is performed as with a conventional tap. When the cork is screwed into place, one must not forget to wrap either FUM tape or linen on the thread. This will avoid leaks and give the connection a tight seal.

If air has accumulated in the heating system of a private house, the water will have to be drained using an expansion tank.

This container is always located at the highest point of the heating system. When the water is drained, you need to wait a bit, and then unscrew the tap on the expansion tank. Usually, when the temperature of the battery rises, the cork comes out on its own. If such actions turned out to be ineffective, then the water in the circuit should be brought to a boil. In this case, the cork will definitely come out.

How often do you need to bleed air?

Knowing how to bleed air from the heating system can prevent and solve many problems. But how often should such a procedure be carried out for prevention purposes? As a rule, this should be done at the beginning of the heating season. Twice is enough (the first time for verification, the second for control). Of course, if there are defects in the system or it is faulty, then the number of descents can be large.

If aluminum radiators are installed in the apartment, then before starting the system, it is necessary to drain the water. This will help increase battery life significantly.

Preventive measures

Of course, knowing how to blow out a heating battery is important and necessary. But it is better to air the system as little as possible. It is better to prevent this situation and install an air vent.

At the moment, the air collectors of heating systems can be of two types: manual (represented by the Mayevsky crane) and float (or automatic). Each of the above types can be installed in various places where there is a risk of air entrapment. The Mayevsky crane configuration is traditional. Auto air vents can be angled or straight.

In order not to puzzle over how to ventilate the heating system, it is imperative to install an air vent on each battery.

Manual air vent type

Manual type air vents are usually mounted on the front side of the radiator. With their help, you can easily bleed excess air. It is enough to have only a special key. The performance of such devices is small. Therefore, such an air collector for the heating system is installed only for use at home.

Automatic air vent type

As for automatic air vents, they operate offline. You don't need to unscrew or open anything. The device does everything on its own. Mount them strictly in a horizontal or vertical position. But I must say that such a valve for bleeding air from the heating system has one drawback - high sensitivity to pollution of a different nature. Therefore, it will also be necessary to additionally install a filter that will clean the device from mechanical impurities.

Important! If air has formed in the heating system, you should find out the reason for this situation. Especially if there were no such problems before. It is important not only to remove the airlock, but to take all measures so that it does not reappear. Therefore, it is necessary to check the device for tightness. Perhaps somewhere you should change the nuts or tighten the bolts, better seal the joints. Or perhaps the air vent is installed incorrectly or the automatic air separator for heating is out of order.

spetsotoplenie.ru

The formation of an air lock in the heating system is characterized by partial cooling of radiators or sections of a water-heated floor. Sometimes a murmur is heard in pipes and batteries, indicating the location of accumulated air. Interested in 2 questions: how to remove it from there and prevent similar troubles in the future. We propose to consider the reasons for the airing of heating appliances in private homes, and then we will show you ways to remove air bubbles from the heating network.

Where does the air in the system come from

Practice shows that it is impossible to ideally isolate the water heating network from the external environment. Air penetrates into the coolant in various ways and gradually accumulates in certain places - the upper corners of the batteries, the turns of the highways and the highest points. By the way, the latter should be equipped with automatic drain valves shown in the photo (air vents).

Varieties of automatic air vents

Air enters the heating system in the following ways:

1. Along with water. It's no secret that most homeowners replenish the lack of coolant directly from the water supply. And from there comes water saturated with dissolved oxygen.
2. As a result of chemical reactions. Again, not properly demineralized water reacts with the metal and aluminum alloy of the radiators, releasing oxygen.
3. The pipeline network of a private house was originally designed or installed with errors - there are no slopes and loops are made, facing upwards and not equipped with automatic valves. It is difficult to expel air accumulations from such places even at the stage of refueling with coolant.
4. A small fraction of oxygen penetrates through the walls of plastic pipes, despite the special layer (oxygen barrier).
5. As a result of repair with dismantling of pipeline fittings and partial or complete draining of water.
6. When microcracks appear in the rubber membrane.

When cracks occur in the membrane, the gas mixes with water.

Note. Water taken from wells and shallow wells is prone to chemical reactions, since it is saturated with active salts of magnesium and calcium.

Also, a situation often arises when, after a long downtime in the off-season, the pressure in a closed heating system decreases due to air ingress. Lowering it is quite simple: you just need to add a couple of liters of water. A similar effect also happens in open systems, if you stop the boiler and the circulation pump, wait a couple of days and restart the heating. As the liquid cools, it contracts, allowing air to enter the lines.

As for the centralized heating systems of apartment buildings, air enters them exclusively together with the coolant or at the time the network is filled at the beginning of the season. How to deal with it - read below.

An example from practice. From the open heating system, air congestion had to be expelled daily due to a completely clogged sump. A working pump created a vacuum in front of it and thus drew oxygen into the pipelines through the slightest leaks.

The thermogram shows the area of ​​the heater where the air bubble usually lingers

Remove the airlock without draining the water

You probably know how to remove air from the heating system in standard ways. Having found a non-heating radiator, you need to open the Mayevsky tap in it with a screwdriver and release the air bubble. If old batteries are installed where there is no such valve, you can try removing them in other ways:

1. The so-called pumping of the pipeline network is used in apartments of multi-storey buildings, provided that a tap is embedded in the radiator to discharge water. Connect a hose directed to the sewer to it, open the valve to the maximum and drain until the flow moving at high speed entrains an air lock.
2. In a private house, Soviet steel batteries can be de-aired with a self-tapping screw. Wrap it at the base with FUM tape and screw it into the wall of the heater with a screwdriver (closer to the top). Then unscrew the self-tapping screw a couple of turns with a screwdriver, release the air and tighten it until it stops. In the summer, embed Mayevsky's crane in this place.
3. Removal of air from the cast-iron batteries of a country house that are not equipped with air vents can be done in two ways: by completely refilling the system or by increasing pressure (up to 2 Bar) with simultaneous heating. Unscrewing the side plugs "on the go" is not recommended, then it will be difficult to pack them.
4. Poor circulation and heat dissipation may be due to air accumulation in the network pump housing. Loosen the large screw at the end of the unit a couple of turns. When water drops come out from under the rubber ring, tighten it back.

Advice. To avoid air pockets during operation, install air bleed valves on all radiators. If the thickness of the metal wall does not allow cutting 3-4 threads, weld a boss on top with a hole of the required diameter. In cast-iron accordions, the valve is embedded in a side steel plug.

The self-tapping screw trick has also been successfully applied to improperly designed up or down hinged lines (for example, to bypass doors and other building structures). How to remove the air bubble in an unfavorable place in the pipeline by tightening the self-tapping screw, see the video:

Recommendation. If you constantly bleed air from the heating system through the batteries and do not find the cause of airing, temporarily put automatic valves on the heaters until you figure out what's wrong (perhaps there is a chemical reaction with the release of oxygen).

We fill the system correctly

The easiest way is to pump water or antifreeze into pipelines connected to an open expansion tank. To do this, open all the valves (except for the drain) and, by connecting the hose to the make-up fitting, fill the lines and radiators with coolant. In this matter, it is important not to rush and allow the air to leave the system on its own through the expansion tank.

Advice. After filling, turn on the circulation pump and the boiler, and then warm up all the heating devices. Then release the remaining air from them through Mayevsky's taps. Don't forget to bleed the pump before starting as described above.

Now about how to bleed air from the batteries and pipelines of a closed heating system of a private house. The proposed technique, constantly practiced by ours, is performed in the following order:

1. Open all shut-off valves of the main circuits (except for the drain).
2. Close all radiator taps, except for the very last radiators at the ends of the loops, so that circulation can flow through them.
3. Get an assistant to work. Its task is to be in the boiler room and maintain the pressure in the network at the level of 1 bar using a pressure test pump or through a feed branch from the water supply.
4. After opening the water supply, fill the main lines, expansion tank and boiler tank. Air must be vented through the safety group valve and air vent at the highest point (if present).
5. Go to the first radiator from the boiler and open both taps at the same time (slowly). Release the air through the Mayevsky valve and close the valves again. The assistant at this time does not allow the pressure to fall below 1 bar.
6. Repeat the operation on all batteries, then turn on the circulation pump and start the heat generator. When the lines begin to warm up, open all the radiator valves one by one and again remove the remaining air from them.

An important point. Before squeezing air locks out of the radiators, be sure to bleed the air from the circulation pump and turn it on for 5-10 minutes to pump the pipelines.

After the heaters have completely warmed up, the pressure in the system should be within 1.3-1.6 bar. This completes the procedure. If there are warm floors in the system, then they must be filled last, using the same algorithm (on a cold one!). That is, having pumped up pressure in the main line, you need to alternately open and close the floor circuits, letting air through the manifold valves, and then warming up and adjusting the coolant flow.

A note regarding the installation of automatic . Such a device should always be in the boiler safety group, and the second, third, and so on - only if the lines pass above the radiators. With the lower wiring in a one-story house, air accumulates in the batteries, since they are higher than the pipelines, and it is not necessary to install valves on them.

Conclusion

Releasing air from radiators is not difficult, but expelling it from the entire heating system, including underfloor heating, is a laborious task. If you make a mistake while filling the heating circuits and a stray air lock appears, it can take up to several weeks to eliminate it. So take your time and do this work thoroughly.

From the author: Hello friends! Surely many of you have experienced a situation where the battery suddenly becomes cold. Sometimes completely, sometimes in places. There are also cases when the battery in one room becomes much colder than in another, or all the radiators suddenly begin to hiss and gurgle in displeasure.

The reason for this is always the same - the formation of an air lock in the system. Special equipment - Mayevsky's crane - will help to cope with this scourge. And the procedure is quite simple. We will talk about what Mayevsky's crane is, how to bleed air with it, and what is the principle of airing batteries in general, in today's article.

Causes of an airlock

To begin with, let's figure out where air comes from in a closed radiator, and even in an amount that can affect the performance of the entire system. There may be several reasons for this:

• incorrect procedure for supplying heating to the house. In a good way, this should be done slowly, and the air should be bled repeatedly in the process;
• violation of the tightness of any part of the heating system. In this case, air enters it constantly, and the only way out of this situation is repair;
• radiator replacement. After removing the old battery and installing a new one, there is always some air in the system. If you do not bleed it before launching, then it will become the very plug in the way of water. This, by the way, is the most common cause of the problem;
• poor quality of the coolant itself. The air content directly in the water can be excessively high, and over time the whole thing is collected in the same cork.

The most unpleasant consequence of this phenomenon is the lack of heating, especially if the problem occurs in the middle of winter. The heating radiator just stops working. But the troubles are not limited to this.

For example, air has a very bad effect on the metal from which batteries are usually made. In such cases, there is a high probability of corrosion, which can quickly destroy the equipment.

Another factor is the temperature difference. As a result of the appearance of an air lock, one part is under heating, and the second is cooled. Such differences, again, lead to the destruction of its elements.

The third problem concerns the circulation pump bearings. Their operation requires the presence of water around. Air provokes increased friction, so the circulation pump can quickly break down.

From the foregoing, it becomes clear that it is necessary to deal with air jams. The easiest way to do this is with a Mayevsky crane.

The device and varieties of the Mayevsky crane

A source: housechief.ru

The Mayevsky crane consists of several parts:

• cone shaped needle valve. When it is closed, water is successfully retained in the battery. An open valve releases air that has accumulated inside the system;
• adjusting screw - a part with which the needle valve is opened and closed;
• square key - needed in order to be able to turn the adjusting screw. However, in the absence of a special device, you can get by with an ordinary screwdriver;
• housing in which the needle valve is hidden. As a rule, it is made of alloys using brass, which gives it excellent anti-corrosion properties.

These elements form the basis of the design. But there are some differences inherent in certain varieties. In general, Mayevsky cranes are divided into three groups: manual equipment, automatic and with a built-in fuse. Let's take a closer look:

• manual is the very simple design described above. If necessary, the adjusting screw is turned with a screwdriver or a square wrench, the air is released, then the screw is screwed back. The device is absolutely simple and reliable;
• there is no needle valve in an automatic faucet, the role of this part is played by a float made of plastic silt. There is also no manual control system, as such, but if necessary, you can still adjust its operation manually. The principle of operation is quite simple: inside the brass body there is a float that moves depending on how much air has collected in the system. When moving, it opens the recluse. Through the latter, air is released. Then the float rises back, thereby blocking the corresponding hole;
• a device with a fuse not only relieves the system of excess air, but also controls the pressure in it. In the event of an increase in this indicator to 15 atmospheres, a special valve is activated in the equipment, through which the excess is bled. It is optimal to put such a device on pipes made of, since by themselves they do not withstand too high pressure.

To choose the device that is most suitable for your case, you need to take into account some nuances, in particular, the type of heating. If it is centralized, then it makes sense to install only Mayevsky's manual crane. As a rule, in such heating systems, the water is very dirty, so automatic types of equipment will either fail quickly or require constant cleaning.

But for private houses, automation is perfect, because there the quality of water in radiators is of a completely different level. In addition, the crane will automatically save the situation in cases where it has to be installed in a hard-to-reach place: for example, in a niche, the walls of which will not let you get close to the manual control screw.

For old cast iron batteries, there is also a special Mayevsky crane with a manual control system. But the best option is to install a brass air vent with an automatic principle of operation. These products are highly durable and easy to use.

Installation and operation

A source: teplodvor.ru

The most important thing in the Mayevsky crane installation procedure is to choose the installation point correctly. You need a section in the upper segment of the radiator, and located on the side opposite to the place where hot water enters the battery. It is here that large accumulations of air occur.

Most modern heating radiators already have a special place for installing a Mayevsky crane. Before installation, it is closed with a plug. It must be removed, after draining all the water from the heating system, and then fix the tap in the appropriate place.

In order to make the connection the most reliable, special rubber seals are used. In addition, the thread must be slightly sealed with FUM tape or linen tow.

In old cast-iron batteries, there is usually no space for a Mayevsky tap, so the installation procedure will be somewhat more complicated. There is a large plug on the side of such a radiator. It is necessary to drill a hole in it, while its diameter should be slightly smaller than that of the tap thread.

Then, with the help of special dies, a thread is made inside this hole. Finally, the Mayevsky faucet is installed and sealed in the same way as in the case of modern radiators. Do not forget that all work is carried out only in the absence of water in the heating system.

Let's move on to how to use the Mayevsky faucet to bleed excess air from the radiator. Naturally, we will talk about the manual variety, since the rest work without human intervention.

1. As a preparation, place a bowl or other empty container on the floor under the place where the work will take place. Also prepare a rag. When you release air, water will flow at a certain stage, so you should prevent it from falling onto the floor.
2. If the performance of your heating system is ensured by the use of special pumps, then they should be turned off at least 10 minutes before you open the tap. During the operation of such pumps, air does not have time to accumulate at a certain point, instead it is carried along with water throughout the system, so there will be no sense in bleeding.
3. After the preparation is completed, you need to very carefully unscrew the locking screw. This is done either with the help of a special key that comes with the kit, or simply with a screwdriver. You need to rotate counterclockwise, about ¼ or ½ turn. Let's talk about accuracy again. You need to turn the screw very smoothly, especially if you are doing the initial start-up of a new radiator.
4. As a result of turning the screw, air will begin to escape through the valve. You can determine this moment by a specific hiss. You need to keep the faucet open until water flows out of it instead of air. At first, the trickle will be intermittent - this means that the process has not yet been completed. But when the jet becomes continuous, you can close the Mayevsky tap.

If, after the procedure, the batteries did not start to heat up, this means that the problem is not the presence of air. Most likely, there is a blockage in the heating system. You will not be able to cope with it on your own, so you will have to call the plumbing team.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the process of bleeding air from the radiator using the Mayevsky crane. But two problems may arise. Firstly, sometimes it happens that the hole through which the air is supposed to escape becomes clogged. In this case, you can simply fix the problem with a needle or something else thin and sharp.

Secondly, if you rarely bleed air from the battery, the adjusting screw can simply rust. It is clear that turning it in such a situation would be problematic. In this case, you will need a special lubricating spray, which can be purchased from the appropriate stores.

Spray the screw threads with this agent and wait a few minutes. After that, the unscrewing procedure should be painless. To prevent such situations in the future, each time after Mayevsky, treat the adjusting screw with a special silicone-based lubricant. This will help protect it from exposure to water and air in the heating system.

Even the simplest and most inexpensive Mayevsky crane is able to faithfully serve for many years with proper operation and care. So don't forget to periodically clean and lubricate this equipment. In this case, the batteries will always reliably heat your home. Good luck!