Grow a peach from a seed in a pot. How to grow a peach from a stone in a home garden

Peach (lat. Prunus persica)- a plant of the subgenus Almond of the Pink family. Where the plant came from, there is no reliable data. In any case, it is known that the peach of David grows in the nature of Northern China, which is a wild-growing form of the common peach. In culture, the tree is cultivated in warm regions, and China is the champion in the industrial cultivation of peaches.

Planting and caring for peach

• Landing: in areas with a cool climate - in the spring (before the start of sap flow), in warm regions - both in spring and autumn.
• Bloom: from mid-April.
• Lighting: bright sun.
• The soil: any well-drained.
• Watering: early varieties - an average of 2-3 times per season, late - 5-6 times. Water consumption - from 2 to 5 buckets per tree, depending on age and size. Water the peaches early in the morning or in the evening. The first watering - in late May or early June, the second - in the first half of July, the third - in the first half of August. The soil is saturated with water to a depth of 60-70 cm. For fruit quality, watering is important 3-4 weeks before harvesting: depending on the age of the tree, water consumption is from 30 to 60 liters. The next watering - only after harvest. The last watering is winter, October. Water consumption for water-charging irrigation - 90-100 liters per m² of the near-stem circle.
• Top dressing: poor soils are fed annually with both organic matter and mineral fertilizers; organic fertilizers are applied to fertile soil once every 2-3 years.
• Pruning: sanitary and formative - in the spring, between the beginning of sap flow and peach blossom. In autumn - pruning for sanitary purposes.
• Reproduction: seeds, grafting, cuttings.
• Pests: plum and oriental codling moths, aphids, scale insects, striped moths, flower beetles, fruit and mining moths, spider mites.
• Diseases: clasterosporiasis, moniliosis, powdery mildew, leaf curl, coccomycosis, scab, fruit and gray rot, cytosporosis, milky sheen, gum disease, verticillosis, gomoz (mushroom burn).

Read more about growing peaches below.

Peach tree - description

The peach root system is located close to the surface - only at a depth of 20-50 cm. Peach trees reach an average height of 4 m, and their crown can grow up to 6 m in diameter. Peach leaves are lanceolate, finely serrated at the edges. Pink or red flowers, almost sessile, open in mid or late April, before leaves appear on the peach, so from afar, peach blossoms resemble sakura. The fruit of the peach, usually velvety, may be flat, round or oblong-elliptical with a groove on one side. The fruit bone is wrinkled, furrowed, with a pointed apex.

Peach trees enter fruiting after 2-4 years from the moment of planting, the fruiting period lasts 10-15 years. Peach, just like mangoes and oranges, is one of the most delicious fruits with the finest aroma and refreshing taste. It is related to such fruit trees as almond, from which it differs only in fruits, apricot, shadberry, quince, chokeberry, plum, mountain ash, hawthorn, wild rose, cotoneaster, apple tree, pear and medlar.

We offer you carefully selected material on how to grow a peach in your garden and how to properly care for a peach, how to treat a peach from pests and diseases, how to fertilize a peach throughout the season and how to plant a peach if you have a desire to propagate it .

Planting a peach

When to plant a peach

Peach planting time depends on the climatic features of your area. The further south you live, the more appropriate it will be to plant a peach in the fall. In the northern regions, it is better to plant seedlings in open ground in the spring, so that during the spring-summer season the trees take root well and have time to grow. The conditions of the middle lane make both spring and autumn peach planting possible, but it is better to give preference to the latter.

For peach, choose an elevated and protected from the wind, but sunny place on the south side of the site. Large trees, shrubs and buildings should not cover the seedling from the sun. Keep the peach at least 3 m away from other plants. Do not plant a peach where strawberries, alfalfa, clover, nightshade and melons grew before it, as it can become ill with verticillium. After these plants, peach can be planted on the site only after 3-4 years.

Planting a peach in spring

A pit for a seedling must be dug in advance - the more time passes from digging a pit to planting a tree, the better the soil will be. If you are going to plant a peach in the spring, prepare a hole for it in the fall, six months before planting. The depth of the pit depends on the size of the root system, but, as a rule, a hole for a seedling is dug with a diameter of 50-70 cm, and its depth should be the same. A strong long peg of such length is driven into the bottom of the pit in the center so that it protrudes at least half a meter above the surface.

If the soil in the area is poor, the top layer of the soil taken out of the pit is mixed with rotted manure, humus or compost in the amount of 5-8 kg, 200-300 g of wood ash, 50 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium chloride are added and carefully mix everything. Only mineral fertilizers and ash are added to fertile soil. The soil with additives is poured into a hill in the center of the pit.

When buying seedlings, you should ask how they are adapted to the area in which they will grow. Make sure that the place where the scion grows together with the stock is smooth, without sagging. The peach bark and its root system must also be healthy - pinch off a piece of bark: its underside should not be brown, but green. Carefully inspect the roots of the seedling and make sure they are not overdried or rotting. Best of all take root in open ground annual peach seedlings.

The tree is placed on a mound in the center of the pit, its roots are carefully straightened and the foundation pit is covered with soil. As a result, the grafting site should be a few centimeters above the surface of the site. The soil is trampled down from the edges of the near-stem circle to the trunk, then the seedling is watered with two or three buckets of water. When the water is absorbed and the earth settles, tie the tree to a peg, and mulch the near-trunk circle with a layer of manure 8-10 cm thick. Make sure that the mulch does not come into contact with the trunk of the seedling.

Planting a peach in autumn

On the eve of autumn planting, they dig a hole for a seedling at least 2-3 weeks in advance, but in autumn only ash and mineral fertilizers are mixed with the soil. The soil with fertilizers, as well as during spring planting, is poured into a hill in the center of the pit around the peg. A peach is planted in autumn in the same way as in spring, but after planting and watering the seedling, when the soil dries, the tree is spudded to a height of 20-30 cm, and on the eve of the onset of cold weather, the peach trunk is wrapped in burlap, making holes in it from the south side for ventilation.

peach care

Peach care in spring

Peach care begins in mid-April: the first procedure is the processing of a tree along swelling buds from codling moth, aphids and other pests. Then you have to treat the peach with a three percent Bordeaux liquid from fungi. On a pink bud, peach is pruned for replacement and fungal treatment with preparations that replace Bordeaux liquid, since it is impossible to spray peach with copper-containing preparations during the active growing season.

After flowering, a combined treatment of trees from pests and diseases is carried out.

If the winter was snowless and the spring dry, do not forget to water the peach in May.

Summer peach care

After the excess ovary is showered from the tree, distribute the load of fruits on the tree: on each fruit-bearing shoot, leave so many fruits that there is one ovary per 8-10 cm in length, remove the rest of the fruits. Monitor the condition of the soil in the trunk circle - loosen the soil and remove weeds. A peach needs watering in the summer, especially when a prolonged heat sets in, but first wait for the stone to harden, otherwise the fruits will begin to crack. In order not to lose the crop, treat the tree from diseases and pests.

Before harvesting the fruits, it is advisable to carry out 2-3 foliar top dressings of peach with potash fertilizers to increase sugar in the fruits, which can be combined with pest and powdery mildew treatment. Not later than a month before harvesting, peach watering is carried out - this will increase the fruit in size by a third.

Autumn peach care

Peach lays and forms flower buds in August and September, and their winter hardiness directly depends on the amount of moisture in the ground, which is why peach watering is so important, which is carried out during these periods.

If you notice that your tree is often affected by fungal diseases, as a preventive measure in October, when the leaves begin to change color, treat the peach with a three percent Bordeaux liquid, and after leaf fall, with a one percent solution of copper sulfate or a seven percent solution of urea.

In autumn, organic and mineral fertilizers are embedded in the soil of the trunk circle, which should be enough for the tree until spring.

Watering peach

The number of waterings during the growing season depends on weather conditions, but on average, early varieties of peach are watered 2-3 times per season, and late ones - 5-6 times. From 2 to 5 buckets of water are spent per session per tree. Watering is carried out in the early morning or evening. The first time a peach is watered in early June, and if the winter was without snow and the spring without rain, then it is better to water the plant at the end of May. The next watering is carried out in the first half of July, and the third - in the first half of August. Try to wet the soil to the depth of the roots - 60-70 cm.

It is very important to irrigate 3-4 weeks before harvesting, which will allow the fruits to grow in mass. The amount of water for each m² of the near-stem circle is 30-60 liters, depending on the age of the tree. After that, the peach cannot be watered until harvest, otherwise its fruits will become watery and lose their sugar content.

No less important is the winter watering of peach, which saturates the soil with moisture and increases the winter hardiness of the tree. Water consumption for water-charging irrigation is 90-100 liters per m² of the near-stem circle.

Peach dressing

Growing peach involves the annual application of fertilizers to the soil. The amount and composition of fertilizing depends on the quality of the soil. For example, poor soils require the annual application of both mineral fertilizers and organic matter, and organic fertilizers are applied to fertile soils once every 2-3 years. In conditions where you have to water the peach often, the amount of fertilizer applied is increased, since they are washed out during irrigation.

The first spring peach top dressing for still dormant buds can be treating the tree with a 7% solution of urea: this measure will provide the plant with nitrogen and, moreover, will destroy pathogens and insect pests that wintered in bark cracks and in the upper soil layer. Before processing a peach, make sure the buds on the trees are still dormant, otherwise the urea will burn them. If you are late and the buds begin to bloom, instead of working on the leaves, dig up the soil in the peach circles while adding 70 g of ammonium nitrate and 50 g of urea per m² of the tree trunk under the young trees. The older the tree, the more fertilizer is needed per unit area: every 2-3 years the dose of each fertilizer is increased by 15-20 g.

In the summer, it is better to fertilize in a foliar way. How to feed a peach during the period of growth and ripening of fruits? The culture responds well to such a fertilizer composition: 100-150 g of an aqueous extract of superphosphate, 50-60 g of ammonium nitrate or 30-50 g of urea, 50-80 g of ammonium sulfate and 30-60 g of calcium chloride or 50-70 g of potassium sulfate, 15 g of manganese and 10 g of borax, dissolved in 10 liters of water. If the fruits on the peach are already ripening, exclude the nitrogen component and borax from this composition.

To achieve a more intense color and increase the sugar content of fruits in the phase of their ripening, foliar top dressing of peach is carried out with a solution of 30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water.

In the fall, 40 g of superphosphate and 50 g of calcium chloride per m² are added to the soil for digging the trunk circle. Once every 2-3 years in the fall, organic fertilizers are added to the soil - humus or compost, but instead, green manure can be grown in the aisles - oil radish, rape, lupine or rapeseed.

Wintering peach

The peach is a thermophilic plant, and for the winter it needs to be covered: next to the trunk, two pegs are driven into the ground as tall as a tree stem and the trunk and pegs are wrapped in a bag of sugar. You can make a cardboard box around the barrel and wrap it with a film. If your winters are not too cold, spud the peach trunk with earth to a height of 50-60 cm. The trunk circle for the winter is mulched with a layer of peat or humus 10-15 cm thick.

peach pruning

When to prune a peach

The best time to prune a peach is the two to three week period between the start of sap flow and the start of flowering. The easiest way for a plant to tolerate a haircut is from the beginning of the appearance of rose buds to the beginning of their opening - this is a period of time of about a week. At this time, the risk of peach infection with cytosporosis is minimal. After harvesting, sanitary pruning of the tree should be carried out.

The formation of a peach must begin from the first year of growth, and the formation will be completed only after four years. How necessary is shaping pruning? Firstly, it regulates the balance between the crown and the root system of the plant. Secondly, it allows you to maintain the health of the tree in good condition. Thirdly, it contributes to the earlier entry into fruiting of the peach, and also provides you with convenience when harvesting.

How to trim a peach

Peaches of different ages are cut differently. The crown of the tree is usually formed in the form of a bowl. How it's done? In the year of planting, the seedling guide is cut at a height of 60-70 cm. The peach branch located above all should have a wide angle of departure. Select two more growths a little lower, located at the same angle, and cut all three branches up to 10 cm into the outer buds. Cut off the rest of the shoots located on the stem and conductor immediately after the buds open.

On the skeletal branches of trees of the second year of life, it is important to maintain an optimal slope. Extension growths are shortened to 60-70 cm. Strong upper and lower growths are removed, lateral growths are thinned out, and those that remain are shortened by two buds.

On the upper skeletal branch of trees of the third year of life, two powerful branches of the second order are selected and cut off to 60 cm from the bifurcation of the main branch. The part of the conductor that rises above the upper branch is cut off. The upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches are freed from powerful growths. Annual growths that have reached 80 cm in length are cut into two buds to form a fruit link. The lower shoot is cut to 50 cm. On the branches shortened last year by two buds, the growths growing upwards are shortened for fruiting, and the lower ones by two buds. Next year, fruit links will be formed from them.

In the fourth year of a peach's life, two successful third-order branches are selected on the second-order branches of the skeletal branches and shortened by a third of the original length. On the branches of the second order, the formation of fruit links is completed, and the growths on the branches of the third order are thinned out and some are cut short - into two buds, and the rest are not touched to use them as non-permanent fruit-bearing branches.

On the fruiting links of the first order, the non-fruiting parts are removed. The branches of the lower growth, cut short last year, are cut into two buds located below. On the upper growths, 7-8 groups of buds are removed to stimulate future fruiting.

peach pruning in spring

Formative pruning, which we told you about, is carried out in the spring in order to give the crown a cupped shape that is convenient for peach care and harvesting. But peach pruning also has sanitary purposes: after spring, frozen, diseased or damaged branches can be found on the tree, which must be removed. After pruning, treat the cuts with garden pitch.

pruning peach in autumn

In autumn, trees are prepared for winter: they carefully cut off old, diseased, dry and damaged branches during harvesting, as well as those that grow inside the crown, thickening it: the tree should expend energy and nutrition only on healthy branches and shoots, which next year will give a harvest. Formative pruning is not done in the fall; there will be time for this in the spring.

In summer, a fruiting peach is not pruned unnecessarily.

Peach breeding

How to propagate a peach

Peaches are propagated by seed, grafting and cuttings. It is possible to grow own-rooted peaches from cuttings only in horticultural conditions, since it is very difficult for an amateur to create the conditions necessary for rooting cuttings.

Growing a peach from seed has some drawbacks: a plant grown from seed may not inherit the characteristics of the mother tree. In addition, finding good seed is not so easy: shops and supermarkets usually sell peaches from the stone of which it is difficult to grow something, and market peaches do not always meet the required requirements. It is best to take seed from the owners of healthy zoned peach trees, and then it remains only to meticulously follow the instructions developed by specialists for growing peach from the stone.

There are also disadvantages to the method of propagating peach by grafting. Firstly, it is not so easy to get the right rootstock, and if you grow it yourself, it will take at least a year. Secondly, it is necessary that there is compatibility between the tissues of the scion and the rootstock, otherwise they will not grow together. Thirdly, you need to meticulously follow the instructions, otherwise the slightest mistake can negate all your efforts.

Propagation of peach seeds

Seed propagation of peach, in addition to disadvantages, has undoubted advantages:

• own-rooted seedlings grown from seed live twice as long as grafted peaches;
• they are more resistant to drought, cold, gum disease and other diseases;
• in some cases, own-rooted seedlings surpass their parents in many characteristics.

If you are full of desire to grow a peach from a seed, we are ready to tell you how to do it right.

Find a site for future peaches located no closer than 3-4 m from any mature trees, large bushes and premises. The place should be sunny, but at the same time protected from cold winter winds. Planting is best done in October or November, so that the seeds in the ground undergo natural stratification over the winter.

Before planting, the seeds are not soaked, on the contrary, they are dried in the shade and, carefully opened, the kernels are removed from them. A trench is dug at the site, filled with fertile loose soil, into which peach seeds are planted every 25-30 cm to a depth of 5-6 cm. After planting, the seeds are covered and watered. Do not panic if you do not see shoots for a long time: first a root will develop from the seed, and only then a sprout will appear. That is why the soil in the trench is filled with soft and loose. At first, the site is watered daily.

When shoots appear in the spring, they are fed with a weak solution of humus, and the seedlings are also treated on the leaves with Ridomil or Thiovit preparations - also of low concentration.

Peach seedlings are transplanted three times. The first time a peach, along with an earthy clod, needs to be dug up when it has 8-10 leaves. The central root of the seedling is carefully cut 6 cm below the root collar, then the seedling is planted in its original place, after which the soil is compacted and watered around it.

The second transplant is carried out when the peaches reach a height of 90-100 cm. They do this in the spring, before the start of sap flow: the seedlings are dug around the perimeter at a distance of 25-30 cm from the stems and, taking them out together with an earthen clod, transplanted, swapping with each other.

The third time the peaches, when they grow up and get stronger enough, are transplanted to a permanent place.

peach grafting

Peach is a crop with limited winter hardiness, but it tolerates drought very well - this is one of its indisputable advantages. You can graft a varietal peach using an apricot, plum, almond or quince seedling as a rootstock. The technology of grafting on any of these rootstocks is the same: you should prepare a cutting of the variety you need in advance and plant it on a one-year-old or two-year-old seedling of one of the listed crops.

Cuttings are harvested at the end of autumn before the start of frost, they are stored in the cellar or in the garden, covered with warm material, and covered with a layer of sawdust 20 cm thick on top. As soon as it gets warmer, the cuttings are transferred to the vegetable box of the refrigerator. Vaccination is carried out in the spring, after the start of sap flow.

As a rootstock, you can use both peach seedlings grown from seed and wild game of the crops we listed, the thickness of which is at least 1.5 cm. The stock is cut to the desired height, it is checked that the bark is smooth and without buds. The methods of grafting, depending on whether the thickness of the scion coincides with the thickness of the stock, can be as follows: by a kidney, a cutting or a split.

peach diseases

Peach diseases and pests can greatly complicate the life of both him and you. Peach diseases are innumerable - this is one of the shortcomings of the culture. Let's talk about those diseases that are most common and are the most dangerous for the plant.

Clusterosporiasis- the most harmful fungal disease of peach, which also affects nectarines. All the ground organs of the tree suffer from this disease. Light brown spots with a raspberry or dirty red border appear on the leaves, the tissue inside the spots dries up, dies and falls out, leaving holes, which is why klesterosporiosis is often called perforated spotting. The bark of young shoots of annual seedlings is covered with orange varnished spots, which spread in length along the fibers, the bark cracks, and gum is released from the cracks. The affected shoots die off, the peach dries.

Leaf curl. This is perhaps the most dangerous disease for peach, which most often occurs in a long and damp spring. The leaves of a diseased tree are covered with reddish swellings, their surface becomes uneven, wavy, they swell, a white coating forms on the underside of the leaf plate, the leaves turn brown and fall off. The shoots become bare, acquiring the appearance of a lion's tail with leaves instead of a tassel at the end, bend, thicken and turn yellow. If you do not fight curly, the peach will begin to lag behind in development and eventually die.

powdery mildew forms a white felt coating on the underside of the leaves, the upper part of the shoots of the current year and fruits. Shoots begin to lag behind in growth, deform, partially die off. The first symptoms of the disease appear from late April to mid-May, and the disease reaches its maximum development in the very heat - in the middle of summer.

Moniliosis stone fruits - a common disease from which shoots and individual branches dry out, dark spots appear and grow on peach fruits, the flesh of the fruit becomes brown, rotten peaches wrinkle and dry. A healthy fetus can become infected with moniliosis from a sick person.

peach processing

Peach treatment for kleasterosporiosis is carried out for the first time with copper chloride or Meteor during the swelling of the kidneys, but you need to have time to carry it out before they begin to open. The following treatments are carried out before and after flowering with Horus or Topsin M preparations in accordance with the instructions. In the spring, before flowering, it is necessary to cut off all the affected branches and shoots, treating the sections with an eight percent solution of lime with the addition of a two percent solution of iron or copper sulfate, after which the sections must be covered with garden pitch.

If you have determined that the peach is affected by curl, after harvesting, when the leaf fall begins, treat the tree with copper oxychloride or Meteor. In early spring and during the beginning of the appearance of pink buds, the peach is treated with the same copper-containing preparations that can be replaced with Horus or Skor with the addition of Delan. Sick leaves and shoots are cut and burned before sporulation begins.

To protect against powdery mildew, peach at the end of flowering is treated with Topaz, Topsin M, Skor, Vectra or Strobi. As preventive measures, spring and autumn pruning of diseased shoots, followed by their burning, collection and destruction of fallen leaves and fruits, and digging of the soil in tree trunks are very important.

From moniliosis, the peach will have to be treated three times: with Horus before flowering, in the rosebud phase, with Topaz after flowering and Topsin two weeks after the second treatment. The areas damaged by the disease are cut off and destroyed.

In addition to the diseases described, the peach can suffer from coccomycosis, scab, fruit or gray rot, cytosporosis, milky sheen, gum disease, verticillosis, homosis or fungal burn.

Peach pests

Eastern And plum codling moth- butterflies of small sizes, using peach to feed their offspring and as a place for wintering. Butterfly caterpillars eat young peach shoots, adults feed on the seeds of its fruits. Insects spend the winter cold in cocoons in cracks in the peach bark or under fallen leaves in the near-trunk circle.

Ways to fight. Treating the tree three times with insecticides such as Chlorophos, Metaphos, Karbofos or Durban will help you rid the peach of codling moths. The interval between sessions is 2 weeks.

Ways to fight. While there are not too many aphids, it can be removed mechanically by wiping the affected areas with soapy water after that. But if you overlooked the appearance of aphids, and she managed to breed, treat the peach with Karbofos, Aktellik, or any other similar preparation. The treatment may need to be repeated. The interval between sessions is 10-14 days. The last treatment is carried out no later than 2-3 weeks before harvest.

Shchitovka damages all ground parts of the peach: a day after the pest sucks, red spots appear on the bark and fruits. Scale insects deplete the tree, populating the skeletal branches, tops of the shoots and the trunk. At the tree on which scale insects settle, the bark cracks and dies, the foliage falls prematurely, the growths dry out, the fruits become smaller and deformed.

Ways to fight. In the fight against scale insects, peach treatments with drugs such as Actellik, Aktara, Bankol, Inta-vir or Mospilan are effective in accordance with the instructions. Of the folk remedies, pepper tincture or onion water are the most famous, but they are ineffective.

striped moth no less dangerous pest. Its caterpillars bite into the buds and young shoots, eating away the core, causing the affected areas to dry and die. Damaged in the stalk area, the fruits expire with gum. One caterpillar can damage from 3 to 5 shoots.

Ways to fight. During bud break, treat the peach with Karbofos, Chlorophos or Zolon. Recognize and cut out damaged shoots in a timely manner and burn them.

Flower weevils, fruit and mining moths, mites and other harmful insects can also be dangerous for peach.

Peach varieties

Peach subspecies

The Peach species is divided into several subspecies:

• common peach- we gave its description at the beginning of the article;
• peach (or almond) Potanin- a low-growing tree, reaching a height of 2 m, with reddish bark, large white or pink flowers and rounded fruits with an elongated bone, unsuitable for food. This variety of peach is found only in the nature of China. Since the fruits of this subspecies have no nutritional value, it is not grown in culture;
• peach david- a tree that grows up to 3 m in height. The fruits of this subspecies are small, with a dry pericarp and low-juicy sweet and sour pulp, therefore David's peach is grown mainly for decorative purposes;
• gasuan peach grows wild in China. This is a medium-sized tree 3-4 m high, it looks very impressive during flowering, when it is covered with small pink and white flowers. The fruits of this low-tasting peach are small, round, yellowish in color, with hard white flesh. This subspecies serves as the basis for breeding valuable varieties of common peach, endowing them with their disease resistance and frost resistance;
• peace peach- wild tall eastern subspecies, reaching a height of 8 m, with spherical fruits of low taste. It has no value for cultivation;
• nectarine very similar to peach. Its main difference is its smooth, slippery skin. The color of the nectarine can be yellow, white or yellow-red. The pulp of the fruit is juicy, yellow, not as sweet as that of a peach, but the seeds in the stones are just sweet, they can be used like almond kernels;
• some scientists also distinguish in a separate subspecies fig peach, or Ferghana, which is a tree up to 5 m high with a wide spreading crown. This subspecies has nothing to do with figs. The fruits of the fig peach are rounded and flattened, with a depressed top. The skin is slightly pubescent, dense, yellow with a greenish tinge. The flesh is light yellow, fibrous, sweet and aromatic. The bone is small. The advantage of the variety is resistance to freezing of buds and buds.

Peach varieties

Today, there are many varieties of peach, the fruits of which differ in shape, size, aroma, taste, color and texture of the skin and pulp.

By type of fruit, peaches are divided into four classes:

• real peaches are velvety fruits, the pulp of which is easily separated from the stone;
• pavia - velvety fruits, the pulp of which does not separate from the stone;
• nectarines - naked fruits, the pulp of which is easily separated from the stone;
• brunyons are naked fruits in which the pulp does not separate from the stone.

According to the color of the fruit, peach varieties are divided into:

• yellow (In memory of Rodionov, Solnechny, Donetsk yellow, Glo Haven and Bohun);
• red (Suncrest, Harmony, Krasnodarets);
• green (Juicy, Grisborough).

The best varieties of nectarine include Plentiful, Pink Princess, Autumn Blush, Relines, Skif, Lola. And the best winter-hardy varieties of nectarine are Skif, Krasnodarets, Fodor, Lyubimets 1 and Lyubimets 2.

According to the ripening period, peach varieties are divided into early, mid-ripening and late.

Early varieties of peach

The best varieties of early ripening peach include the following:

• Morettini- an ultra-early self-pollinating early-fruiting variety of Italian selection, which enters fruiting 2-3 years after planting. The yield of this variety is up to 30 kg per tree. Medium-sized fruits weighing up to 115 g are covered with a bright yellow, gently pubescent skin with a bright red blush in the form of spots and dots, occupying 60% of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow-creamy, fragrant, juicy, with delicate fibers. A stone of medium size is separated from the pulp with difficulty;
• Velvety- medium-sized productive variety with medium and large fruits weighing up to 140 g, rounded, bright yellow with a carmine blush, almost completely covering the surface. The pubescence of fruits is weak, suede. Very juicy flesh of golden yellow color with delicate fibers of excellent taste. A small bone is poorly separated from the pulp;
• Kiev early- an early maturing, winter-hardy and high-yielding variety of Ukrainian selection, undemanding to growing conditions. Round-elongated light yellow fruits of medium size weighing up to 100 g can sometimes be covered with a bright blush. The pulp of the fruit is greenish-white, juicy, tasty;
• redhaven- a variety resistant to frost and curl with large fruits weighing up to 150 g, orange-yellow in color with red spots and specks. The flesh is yellow, tender, very aromatic. Unfortunately, trees of this variety, if agricultural practices are not followed, are affected by fungi;
• Collins- winter-hardy and productive variety, resistant to powdery mildew and curl, with pubescent fruits weighing up to 150 g of red-yellow color, sweet taste with pleasant sourness. This variety requires careful care - frequent fertilizing, watering and timely pruning.

In addition to those described, such varieties as Early Forest-Steppe, Juicy, Fluffy Early, Memory of Rodionov, Greensboro, Novoselovsky, May Flower, Arp, Early Riversa, Domestic, Excellent, Red Bird Kling and others are popular.

Medium varieties of peach

Of the varieties of peach of an average ripening period, the following are most often grown:

• Veteran- a winter-hardy high-yielding variety of Canadian selection with rounded, slightly pubescent fruits weighing up to 130 g, yellow with a red blush covering a significant part of the surface. The pulp of the fruit is yellow, medium density, juicy, fragrant, sour-sweet. The stone is easily separated from the pulp. The variety is resistant to powdery mildew;
• Peace Ambassador- winter-hardy self-fertile productive variety with very large fruits weighing up to 220 g of yellow-carmine color with dense yellow, juicy, fibrous pulp of pleasant taste, which is poorly separated from the stone. Peaches of this variety ripen in mid-August;
• nectarine Krasnodarets- a variety with small rounded fruits with a barely noticeable seam, weighing up to 50 g of yellow color with a bright red blush, consisting of dots and stripes. The skin of the fruits of this variety is smooth, without pubescence. The pulp is yellow, juicy, tasty, with delicate fibers;
• Soviet- a variety zoned for the southern regions of Ukraine with oval-blunt fruits weighing up to 170 g, slightly squeezed from the sides. The skin is medium velvety, yellow with a carmine blush. The pulp is yellow, medium fiber, very juicy and aromatic. A medium-sized stone is easily separated from the pulp;
• friendship- a winter-hardy variety, derived from Chinese material, with rounded fruits weighing from 140 to 250 g with a ribbed ventral suture. The skin is tender and elastic, with barely noticeable pubescence, creamy yellow, with a blush of red dots and strokes. The flesh is creamy white, sweet and very juicy, easily separated from the stone.

Also of interest are the mid-ripening peach varieties White Swan, Golden Jubilee, Champion, Dakota, Tuscan Kling, Double Mountain, New Yield, Fine, Pineapple Nectarine, Salami and others.

Late varieties of peach

There are not as many late peach varieties as early and mid-ripening ones, but for a heat-loving crop, this is in the order of things. The best of the late varieties are:

• Jaminat- high-yielding variety with elongated fruits, slightly squeezed from the sides, bright yellow with marbled red. Bright orange flesh of medium density, very juicy and sweet, with a barely noticeable sour taste. The stone is well separated from the pulp;
• Irganai late- frost-resistant variety with rounded fruits weighing up to 160 g. Peel with suede pubescence, bright yellow, with beautiful red spots. The pulp is yellow-orange, sweet, tender fibrous. A small bone is well separated from the pulp. The variety is resistant to clasterosporia and curliness;
• Kremlin- a productive variety, zoned for the Crimea and the south of Ukraine, with rounded fruits weighing up to 200 g with yellow-orange skin and marble carmine-burgundy blush, which occupies a significant part of the surface. Skin with soft pubescence. Orange-yellow fragrant pulp of medium density and juiciness of a very pleasant taste is easily separated from a small stone;
• Golden Moscow- a winter-hardy high-yielding variety with fruits weighing up to 180 g of bright yellow basic color and a blurry red blush covering most of the fruit. The pubescence of the skin is weak, velvety. The pulp is yellow, fragrant, dense, medium juicy, well away from the stone;
• Tourist- a relatively winter-hardy variety, zoned for the Crimea and the south of Ukraine, with round, wide-oval fruits weighing up to 200 g, greenish-cream in color with a blurred burgundy blush, occupying up to half of the fruit surface. The pubescence of the skin is weak, suede. Greenish-white pulp is fibrous, medium density, juicy and fragrant, sweet taste with slight sourness. A large bone is well separated from the pulp.

Their late varieties of peach also have a good characteristic of Aydinovsky oblong, Champion late, Khudistavsky late yellow, Geokchay late, Oktyabrsky and others.

4.6078431372549 Rating 4.61 (51 votes)

After this article, they usually read

Growing a peach on your own plot is not difficult if you organize proper care for it. At the same time, many gardeners often ask themselves the question of how to grow a peach from a stone in the country, and how such a procedure is performed. In fact, getting a new seedling from a seed is not difficult, as well as growing it in the future.

Moreover, a self-grown sprout will be resistant to frost and many diseases. So, and how to properly organize care for him and consider below.

Optimal timing for planting peach

First of all, it is worth highlighting that the successful cultivation of peach directly depends on the timing of its planting in open ground. As a rule, if you live in the southern regions, then you can plant a crop not only in spring, but also in autumn. Moreover, autumn planting will even be preferable.

But if your region of residence is colder, then the best option would be to postpone planting to spring. In this case, the sprout will have time to adapt and strengthen its own root system, due to which the first winter will not adversely affect the crop.

As for the timing of planting, then, as a rule, in the spring, the crop is planted in April. But in the autumn period, all planting work should be completed before mid-September.

Selecting a landing site

To successfully grow a peach tree, you need to choose the right area where this crop will grow, namely:

• this plant loves sunny southern places;
• peaches should not be planted next to strawberries and nightshade crops;
• if you plant several peaches, then the distance between them should be at least 3 meters;
• the soil should not be clay or swampy.

There is one more thing that should also be taken into account. When the peach culture is mature, it should not be shaded by various buildings. The fact is that this tree loves sunlight, which is very important for its full development.

Bones preparation

To get young and strong sprouts from this crop, you should always take into account the peculiarities of growing peaches. For example, seeds obtained from store-bought fruits are not suitable for seedlings. The fact is that they are harvested at a time when the fruits are barely beginning to ripen. Therefore, the seed of such a peach will probably not have time to fully ripen.

The best option would be to choose the fruits you like on the market, as they say, from the hands. At the same time, keep in mind that if you buy peaches from the owner, he will surely tell you all the characteristics of the fruit-bearing tree, and also give recommendations on caring for the resulting planting material.

So, the peaches are bought, and the seeds are taken out of the fruit. Naturally, the actual question arises, what to do next? First, prepare the seed material. It should be noted that regardless of how you plan to grow the crop in the future. In other words, peaches will grow in a greenhouse or in open ground, seed preparation is carried out in the same way, namely:

• the bones are taken out and washed well, so that no pulp remains;
• then, the resulting seed material should be thoroughly dried at room temperature;
• further, to carry out stratification;
• and immediately before planting, the bones will need to be soaked in water.

And now it is worth considering all the stages of preparing the bones in more detail. Today, there are many ways to get a strong and full-fledged sprout from the bone. But below we will consider the simplest and most affordable method.

So, how to get a seedling:

• well-dried peach seeds are sent for a week in the refrigerator;
• after that they are planted in a pot with pre-prepared soil to a depth of 7 cm;
• germination of the material is carried out in the light;
• the container where the bone was planted is covered with polyethylene or glass to create a greenhouse effect;
• every day, glass or polyethylene is removed for an hour to ventilate the pot and remove the accumulated condensate.

At the same time, keep in mind that this culture is moisture-loving, but it does not tolerate stagnant water. Therefore, before planting the seeds, make sure that small holes are made at the bottom of the pots to remove excess water.

As a rule, the first shoots will begin to appear after at least three months. Therefore, when you see the first leaves, glass or polyethylene must be removed. From this moment on, intensive growth of young animals will begin.

Another important point to consider when planting peach pits. First of all, the soil must be nutritious so that the sprout can fully develop. It is also very important to regularly moisten the soil so that it does not dry out.

Preparing the landing area

If you plant peach pits around October, then by April the young will be ready to be transplanted into open soil. Therefore, you should take care of the place for the future tree in advance. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a place in the front garden in the fall by doing the following:

• the area under the future peach should be cleared of weeds;
• further, it is necessary to dig up the soil and fertilize it with organic matter.

After completing all the procedures, the site is left until spring. And in the spring, when there are at least six leaves on the sprouts, it is moved to open ground.

Disembarkation process

In order to receive a crop from the grown sprouts in the future, the seedlings must be hardened off before planting. To do this, from mid-April, pots with sprouts begin to be taken out into the street. First, the seedlings are left for an hour, then gradually increase the time the plant is outside. Well, when the peaches are hardened, they are planted in open soil. To do this, you will need to do the following:

• dig a hole and fill it with warm water;
• then lay a layer of broken red brick and a layer of rotted humus mixed with the ground at the bottom of the pit;
• further, a seedling is lowered into the hole along with the earth from the pot in which it grew;
• then the sprout is carefully covered with earth and trampled down.

Having planted the future tree, it is necessary to cover it for the first time at night. You can use glass containers for this.

Care after planting in the spring

It is worth noting that if the winter turned out to be poor in snow, and there was practically no precipitation in spring, it is necessary to water the young tree abundantly in May.

Summer care

With the advent of summer, caring for a peach crop comes down to performing simple manipulations, such as:

• the soil around the trunk circle is loosened and cleared of weeds;
• if the weather is hot outside, the tree should be well moistened;
• starting from June, obligatory feeding of peach with the help of nitrogen means is carried out.

autumn care

Closer to September, peach begins to form flower buds for the next growing season. And in this case, it depends on their successful wintering whether your crop will bloom next year. And in order for the peach to overwinter and please with flowering the next year, the tree must be prepared for the upcoming winter.

Well, as for pruning, then, first of all, in the second year of peach growth, they do not cut it. Well, in the case when such manipulation is necessary, then it is better to carry it out in the spring. In general, after planting a sprout from a seed, they try not to touch it for the first two years, thus giving time to strengthen the root system.

Preparing the plant for winter

In the first year of planting a seedling, it is very important to properly cover it for the winter. Naturally, such manipulation is also important for adult trees. But for young people, it is simply vital. Therefore, insulation should be taken very responsibly.

So, what kind of care should be organized, and what is required for this. As a rule, two wooden slats and a large cardboard box are used to shelter this crop.

And perform such a manipulation as follows:

• first, planks are installed around the culture;
• then a box or burlap is pulled over them, which is more convenient;
• further, dry hay or straw is poured into the resulting space between the tree and the burlap;
• and the final stage, as soon as the snow falls, you need to cover it with snow from above.

The resulting shelter will easily keep your culture until spring. And next year, the peach will surely please with intensive growth.

By the way, it is worth noting that most beginner gardeners are interested in if the planting material was obtained from the seed, then after how many years the peach begins to bear fruit. In this case, it all depends on the mother tree and how well the care was organized.

With good care, the culture will begin to produce fragrant peaches as early as 4 years after planting the sprout. Moreover, the plant will be several times more resistant to various diseases, unlike the mother tree.

Proper and top dressing hydration of the crop

Separately, it is worth highlighting such a moment as watering a peach. The fact is that this southern resident is very moisture-loving. But at the same time, he does not tolerate stagnant water. As a rule, in order for fruiting to be generous, irrigation should be performed as follows:

1. The first moistening is carried out at the end of May, after which this crop should be fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
2. The next watering is carried out in mid-July. After abundant moisture, they are fed with potash fertilizers.
3. The third time the peach is watered by the end of August, and then phosphate fertilizers are applied.
4. And the last watering is carried out at the end of September, along with it organic matter is introduced into the soil. A tree fertilized in this way will have good immunity, which will give it the opportunity to overwinter even in the most severe frosts.

At the same time, it should be noted that the number of irrigations can be increased if the summer turned out to be very hot and poor in precipitation. In this case, the gardener must control the condition of the soil himself.

To do this, you can stock up on the so-called probe, with which it is easy to check the condition of the soil.

If the ground is dry by more than 10 cm, then peach trees need to be dealt with urgently and watered abundantly.

Well, as for the amount of water, then, as a rule, for one adult tree a minimum of 30 liters of warm, settled water is required. And one more thing, which is also very important. The start time of watering should fall in the evening so that the sun does not burn the watered crop.

Conclusion

As can be seen from all of the above, growing a peach from a seed is not difficult. But at the same time, it is very important to properly care for the seedling, and in this case, it will certainly please you with delicious fruits.

Gardeners are inquisitive people, thanks to this quality of enthusiastic people, we observe an abundance of species of domestic plants, because most modern Russian varieties have appeared over many generations. Gardeners have already mastered the process of growing peaches well, frost-resistant varieties have appeared that tolerate harsh climatic conditions on the site.

Pros and cons of growing peaches from the pit

Advantages of propagating peach with a bone:

• Getting a peach pit is easy and everyone can try their hand at growing a tree.
• Home-grown peach initially has a high adaptation to the Russian climate.

The disadvantages include:

• A peach grown from a stone is likely to lose its varietal qualities.
• There is a high risk that the tree may not bear fruit for the first few years, there are often cases when the peach does not bear fruit at all and simply performs a decorative function.

What bones are suitable for planting?

Experienced gardeners know that choosing the right planting material is half the battle. Choose only fully ripe peach. In fact, the bone is a lignified pericarp. Cleanse the pulp, rinse thoroughly and dry. Store future planting material in a dry and cool place.

Peaches are grown closer to where the tree is planned to be planted.

Store fruits are unsuitable for planting due to the following reasons:

• Peaches are brought from southern countries.
• Collect fruits at the stage of technical ripeness, for long-term transportation of products. At the same time, the nucleoli inside remain immature.
• Treated with a variety of chemicals to extend the shelf life. Substances have a negative effect on the bones, in particular, they become quite brittle and crack.
• You can grow a seedling from any fruit, but he will not adapt to the climate and will die after landing in the ground.
• They buy peach fruits grown in Russia or neighboring states, for future planting material.

Preparing the bone for sprouting

Before planting, prepare planting material.

The preparation process includes the following steps:

Ways to grow at home

At the initial stage, the main task is to get a sprout from a peach seed. Gardeners achieve the desired result in various ways. Three methods are common, which we will consider in detail.

cold way

warm way

Stages of bone germination in a cold way:

1. Before planting, place the bone in the refrigerator., for several days.
2. Planting of the bone is also carried out to a depth of about 7 centimeters, while germination occurs at normal room temperature and normal lighting.
3. The pot in which the material is planted is constantly covered transparent material, such as glass, to simulate a greenhouse.
4. Glass needs to be removed daily to ventilate the soil and remove condensation that has accumulated on the covering material.
5. Peach loves moisture, but at the same time it does not tolerate stagnation, therefore, several holes must be made in the bottom of the container into which the bone is planted.

Fast way

The method does not provide for stratification:

Caring for young peach sprouts

In order for peaches to gain sufficient strength, favorable conditions are created. Seed germination is very low, and, therefore, it is recommended to plant several seeds at once.

How to care for sprouts:

• The soil. Optimal for germination - soil from peat, humus, sand and leafy soil. At the same time, they constantly maintain sufficient moisture and do not allow the soil to dry out. Additionally loosen.
• Lighting. Like any other plant, the peach tree needs a lot of light. If sufficient sunlight cannot be provided, additional sources are used. It even gives faster plant growth.
• Temperature regime. The optimal temperature for the plant varies depending on the time of year. So, in winter they maintain about 2-4 degrees above zero. In spring, during the flowering period of the plant, the temperature is about +12 degrees. After flowering, the ambient temperature is raised to about +22 degrees. Do not forget that in winter they arrange the so-called dormant period, during which watering is significantly reduced and additional lighting is removed. Standard care is resumed after the buds open.
• Fertilizer and top dressing. For rapid growth, the tree is provided with additional sources of nutrition by adding organic fertilizers. Start in spring every two weeks. Since September, the process of fertilizing the plants is stopped.
• Transfer. In the process of growth, the plant will become short of space, and will need to be transplanted into a larger pot. It is better to do this in early spring before flowering begins, or in autumn, at the beginning.
• pruning. A point that is neglected by a fairly large number of people. The formation of the crown must begin when lateral shoots appear and the main trunk reaches a height of seventy centimeters.

Transplanting a seedling in open ground

Another crucial stage is the direct landing in the ground. As a rule, in the first year, a young peach tree seedling grows up to one and a half meters in height. In the second year in September, the trees are planted in the garden.

It is important to choose the right place where the tree will be placed, success largely depends on this:

• High-quality lighting is required sunlight, but at the same time the place is sufficiently closed from strong winds.
• Consider the size of the future tree. A peach tree is planted at a distance of at least 3 meters from other trees and any buildings.

How to transplant correctly so that the peach tree grows actively:

Subject to the rules described above, the peach tree will take root in the country and will delight with delicious fruits.

Care after landing

Peach will require special attention in the first few years after planting in open ground. This is due to low adaptation to harsh climatic conditions.

We summarize the following tips:

• For the period of cold weather, a young peach shelter burlap and other non-woven fabrics. The trunk is insulated with glass wool.
• It is recommended to constantly trim dried and cracked shoots.

Let's dwell on some points in detail.

Regarding watering the peach tree, we note:

• During the season the peach tree is watered about five times.
• For one approach pours out about two to five buckets of water.
• It is recommended to water the plants in the early morning or evening. The first time watering is done at the end of May, the second in July, the third is mandatory in mid-August. Other waterings are done as needed.
• Additional watering carried out about twenty days before harvest, this is done so that the peaches can gain sufficient weight.
• Final winter watering- about ten buckets of water are poured per square meter near the trunk.

Fertilizer

Peach requires organic and mineral fertilizers. During periods of drought, when watering is plentiful, much more fertilizer will be required. This is due to the fact that top dressing is washed out when watering.

Fertilizer application instructions:

Pest and disease treatment

The most common diseases:

• Clusterosporiasis- a dangerous fungal infection. When it spreads, the living tissues of the leaves die off, and cracks appear on the bark.
• leaf curl- the disease is fatal for the plant. Actively develops in dampness. The leaves are covered with red-brown swellings and soon begin to fall off. The tree stops growing and dies.
• Moniliosis- the disease is widespread among stone fruit crops. A characteristic feature is the drying of shoots and the appearance of brown spots on the surface of the fruit.

A serious drawback of the peach tree is its low level of disease resistance.

To combat diseases, drugs are used:

• "Horus";
• "Topaz";
• "Topsin M";
• "Vectra";
• "Strobe".

If we talk about pests, then, as a rule, the peach tree is attacked by mites, aphids and thrips.

To combat them use:

• "Karbofos";
• "Aktellik";
• "Fitoverm";
• "Zolon".

Conclusion

Growing a fruit-bearing peach tree from a stone is quite difficult, and requires a certain amount of knowledge and experience from the gardener. By listening to the tips listed in the article, growing will be much easier and more productive.

Growing exotic tropical trees such as orange, kiwi, pomegranate is becoming more and more fashionable among amateur growers. They are trying to "domesticate" other crops, such as peach. But going to the store for such a tree is useless. The only way to acquire them is to grow them from the seed yourself. There is nothing difficult in this, the grower will only need desire, a little patience and the ability to follow the rules and recommendations exactly. The process is laborious, but very interesting.

Selection of planting material

There is hardly a person who would not like peaches. That is why more and more flower growers, partly following fashion trends, are trying to grow a fruit-bearing tree on their windowsill. But just sticking a peach pit into the ground and expecting a harvest would be at least naive. The procedure is much more complicated, it requires preliminary preparation, the ability to act according to these recommendations, the availability of free time and, of course, desire.

Growing a fruit-bearing peach tree at home is quite a task even for a not too experienced gardener.

Extracting seeds from store-bought peaches and planting them is useless. There will definitely be no shootouts. The fact is that these fruits are grown very far from Russia (Spain, China, Thailand, Turkey). In order for the harvest to safely endure transportation, the fruits are harvested long before the onset of not only biological, but also technical maturity, almost green. In addition, for better preservation and extension of the shelf life, peaches are treated with chemicals. The seeds inside the seeds simply do not have time to ripen, it makes no sense to talk about germination. And the drugs used contribute to the fact that the shell becomes very fragile, breaks easily, bursts in half. By the way, such fruits are not recommended.

Shop-bought peaches cannot be used to obtain planting material.

Only peach seeds grown on local farms in private garden plots have a chance to germinate. Therefore, for planting material, you need to go to markets, agricultural fairs, to neighbors in the country, and so on. But even the “right” fruit does not guarantee success. Practice shows that, on average, one seed out of four sprouts, and a significant part of the seedlings die within two to three months after germination. Therefore, it is advisable to stock up on planting material in excess.

Seedlings at home give only peach seeds taken from the tree after reaching full maturity.

It is also advisable to ask the seller if the peach tree has been grafted. In own-rooted plants, "descendants" fully inherit the varietal characteristics of the "parent". And the germination of seeds extracted from grafted peaches is a kind of lottery. Until the first harvest, no one can tell what the fruits will be.

Even if you can’t get peach fruits at home, you will get a wonderful interior decoration - this tree blooms very beautifully

In principle, peaches of any variety ripen at home. But if you have a choice, you should give preference to those that are characterized by short stature, early maturity and the ability to self-pollinate. Of those cultivated in Russia and the countries of the former USSR, the varieties Pineapple, Krasnodar, Kiev, Mignon early, Redhaven fully correspond to these characteristics.

Redhaven peach is an old well-deserved hybrid bred in the USA, it is quite suitable for growing at home

Video: is it possible to grow a peach from a stone at home

Planting seeds and preparing for it

Peach seeds definitely require pre-planting preparation. There are several ways, differing in duration, labor costs and efficiency. The fruits from which the stones are removed must be overripe, but at the same time absolutely healthy, without the slightest suspicious symptoms indicating the development of pathogenic fungi, viruses, bacteria or traces resembling damage left by insects.

Stratification

Stratification or the so-called cold method is the most common type of preplant preparation. Its essence is to simulate "winter" for seeds, creating conditions as close as possible to natural ones. In this case, the natural mechanism for preparing the seed for germination is launched, chemical reactions begin, in the process complex organic compounds decompose into simple components that the embryo is able to use for nutrition and assimilate.

In order for the stratification to be successful, the peach pits must be thoroughly cleaned of particles of pulp.

In addition to low temperature (2-5ºС) in order for stratification to be successful, peach seeds need to be provided with good aeration and high humidity (70% or more). You can put them, for example, in the refrigerator, in a special compartment for storing vegetables and fruits. And also a good solution - a cellar or basement. If the winter is expected to be warm and snowy, the container is simply added dropwise in the garden. They begin preparations in mid-autumn, calculating the time so that by the time the seeds sprout, it is still quite cold outside.

The temperature in the vegetable and fruit compartment is optimal for peach pit stratification

The stratification procedure itself looks like this:

1. Shallow containers are filled with coarse river sand or peat chips. Previously, the substrate must be thoroughly washed and disinfected by steaming, calcining in the oven, holding in the freezer. Some flower growers recommend sawdust or sphagnum moss as a "primer", but when using them, it is very difficult to provide the required humidity.
2. Peach pits, carefully cleaned of lumps of pulp (the latter can cause the development of rot), are planted in the ground, deepening by 7–9 cm.
3. The container is placed in a paper or transparent plastic bag, having made 3-4 holes in it with a knife, and placed in the refrigerator. The condition of the soil is constantly monitored, moistening the soil from a fine spray gun as it dries. If condensation appears, the bag is opened for 5–7 minutes to ventilate.
4. After 10-12 weeks, the seeds will sprout, their shell will open. When this happens, the container is removed from the refrigerator, the peaches are planted in individual pots with a diameter of 7–9 cm. The soil is prepared independently, mixing peat chips, humus and universal soil for indoor plants or leafy soil in approximately equal proportions.
5. Peaches are provided with enough light by placing them on a south or southwest window sill. Do not allow a sharp change in the microclimate. The temperature is raised gradually. For 5-7 days, the seedlings are kept on a glazed loggia, at 10-12ºС. Then they can be brought into the apartment, providing coolness (17-20ºС). All this time, peaches are watered very sparingly, only when the soil dries out.

Seed extraction

The existing bone is simply gently split, removing the seeds. If everything is done correctly, seedlings will appear much earlier than with stratification. But due to the complete lack of hardening, such peaches are especially demanding on the conditions of detention, they need perfect care. Plants do not tolerate even slight fluctuations in temperature, humidity, and so on.

The peach pit is split very carefully so as not to damage the seed, even its shell.

You need to act like this:

1. Peach pits are thoroughly washed and dried for several days, spread out on linen napkins or paper towels. Then they are very carefully broken using a knife and a hammer. Seeds (“kernels”) that have received at least the slightest damage in the process can be immediately thrown away.
2. The extracted seeds are kept in water heated to room temperature for 3-4 days, changing the liquid every morning. They should swell, noticeably increasing in size.
3. When this happens, peach seeds are planted in individual pots, deepening by 4-5 cm. They are created "greenhouse" conditions by tightening the containers with plastic wrap, covering with glass.
4. Future peaches are provided with bottom heating, darkness, temperature 26–28ºС. Every day for 5-10 minutes, the "greenhouse" is opened for ventilation, while at the same time erasing the accumulated condensate. Moisten the soil very moderately and only when it dries out. High humidity often provokes the development of rot.
5. As soon as sprouts appear, the "shelter" is removed, the containers are exposed to light, providing a "day" lasting at least 12 hours. Requirements for temperature and watering do not change.

The "greenhouse effect" is absolutely necessary in order for the peach seeds extracted from the pits to sprout.

Germination of seeds in natural conditions

The easiest option, requiring minimal time and effort. The so-called warm method does not require the creation of a special microclimate for seeds. Normal household conditions are enough. The bones extracted from the fruits are simply planted in pots filled with soil and hope for the best. With luck, sprouts will appear in 3-4 months.

Peach seedlings obtained from seeds that have not undergone any preliminary preparation are extremely rare.

You can increase your chances of success by:

1. The bones are placed in the refrigerator for 7-10 days, providing at least a short-term stratification.
2. Then they are soaked for 3-4 hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. The most common remedies are Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate, succinic acid, aloe juice.
3. Bones are planted in cups filled with universal soil for indoor plants, deepening at least 5 cm. There must be several drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay (or other suitable material) at the bottom, 2–3 cm thick. The soil must be well moistened beforehand.
4. Bones provide the same conditions as described in the previous method. Particular attention should be paid to watering - peach categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture. When sprouts appear, the containers are transferred to the brightest place in the apartment, providing protection from any drafts and direct sunlight.

Biostimulants used in the process of seed germination have a positive effect on seed germination and strengthen the immunity of future plants

The peach tree does not differ in growth rate. Sometimes it even seems that the seedlings do not develop at all. First, the tree forms the root system, and only then - the aerial part. But then it rapidly starts growing, stretching 45–60 cm in height in 8–10 weeks. The first harvest can be expected 4-5 years after emergence.

A young peach tree does not grow very quickly, but you should not worry about this, it is completely normal for it.

Transplant procedure

The first time a peach tree is transplanted when it reaches a height of 15–20 cm. The soil is prepared independently by mixing peat chips, humus, river sand and ordinary garden soil in a ratio (1: 1: 1: 2).

Flowering and fruiting greatly deplete the plant, so the soil for it must be nutritious, one of its essential components is humus

Too frequent transplantation of the peach tree is not needed. Once every 2-3 years is enough. Some tightness will even benefit the roots, stimulating more abundant flowering. The optimal time for the procedure is early spring (before the start of the active growing season) or the first half of September (when fruiting ends).

For a peach, choose a pot that resembles a bucket in shape. This is still a tree, so its root system is developed. It is best to purchase a ceramic container - it is more stable and provides proper aeration.

In a shallow flat pot, there is simply not enough space for peach roots.

Further care

In nature, peach grows in the tropics. This is what you need to focus on, creating a suitable microclimate for the tree. It is worth listening to its “requirements”, because flowering and fruiting is possible only in optimal or close to them conditions.

Creating the right microclimate

Peach is very photophilous. The plant needs to provide daylight hours lasting 12-14 hours. In most of the territory of Russia, natural light cannot be dispensed with, so you will have to use simple fluorescent or special phytolamps for additional illumination. They are included not only in autumn and winter, but also in summer, in cloudy cool weather.

The LED phytolamp does not consume so much electricity, but it allows you to provide peaches with daylight hours of the desired duration.

A pot with a peach tree is placed near a window facing south or southeast. As a rule, this is the brightest place in the apartment. But a plant, especially a young one, can suffer from burns, therefore, during the period of maximum solar activity, it must be shaded by covering it with tulle, gauze, and a paper screen.

The plant is very positive about fresh air, but categorically does not tolerate cold drafts. This must be taken into account when choosing a place in the apartment. In summer, the peach feels great on the loggia, veranda, balcony, in the garden, if it is protected from rain and wind.

Peach loves fresh air very much, so if the temperature is right, it is quite possible to take it outside

The optimal temperature varies depending on the stage of development of the plant. He definitely needs a dormant period at 2-5ºС. It lasts from November to early March. Then the temperature is raised to 12-15ºС. Higher rates can cause bud drop. After flowering, the plant needs warmth, but not heat (22-26ºС). The peach tree will not survive negative temperatures.

Air humidity is not a critical indicator for a peach. He will be quite satisfied with the standard 50-60%, to maintain which in modern apartments you do not need to make any effort. However, in hot weather, the peach won't mind a daily spray. It is also useful for sanitary purposes to wipe the leaves from time to time with a damp sponge or soft cloth, getting rid of dust.

Peach is a moisture-loving plant, but categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture in a pot. The soil is moistened regularly, allowing it to dry 2–3 cm deep. This is easy to check by sticking a toothpick into the substrate. The intervals between waterings vary depending on what the weather is like outside. In the heat, the peach will have to be watered daily or every two days, the rest of the time - 2-3 times a week (during the ripening of the fruits, you can get by with one). Half an hour after the procedure, be sure to drain excess moisture from the pot.

The plant needs the most abundant watering after leaving the dormant period, when leaf buds begin to “wake up”. As soon as flowering ends and fruit ovaries form, it is reduced. Waterlogging can cause the ovaries to fall off and the fruits to crack. During the wintering period, the peach is watered very rarely and moderately, once every 2.5-3 weeks.

Water for irrigation is used soft, heated to room temperature. The one that flows from the tap must be defended for at least a day. Or you can speed up the sedimentation process by adding a few crystals of citric acid or 2-3 drops of apple cider vinegar to it.

Rain water, as well as melted spring water, is ideal for watering peach

After each watering, after about half an hour, the soil is loosened. It must not be allowed to turn into a crust on the surface of the soil. This prevents normal aeration of the roots and provokes moisture stagnation.

Flowering and fruiting take a lot of energy from the tree. Therefore, top dressing for peach is strictly required. To do this, you can use organic fertilizers based on biohumus, and complex mineral preparations. But natural remedies are also suitable - infusions of wood ash, nettle leaves, dandelion. Fertilizers are applied every 12–14 days throughout the growing season. At the time of wintering, top dressing is stopped.

Nettle leaf infusion is a natural source of nitrogen and phosphorus, before use it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8

When using garden fertilizers (carbamide, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc.), when preparing a solution for irrigation, the concentration recommended by the manufacturer is halved. The volume of soil in the pot is limited, because of this, top dressing is not washed out of the soil. Moderate "overfeeding" for a peach is not dangerous - it will only stop bearing fruit, "concentrating" on building up green mass (sometimes such plants are called "fatty"). But regular excess of doses of fertilizer is already intoxication and quite likely death of the plant.

The macro- and microelements most needed for the plant are phosphorus, potassium, calcium and copper. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied only in the spring, they help, after the winter "hibernation", to stimulate the peach to intensively build up green mass. Experienced flower growers, in order to provide it with everything necessary, advise spraying a tree once a month and a half, dissolving soda ash (4–5 g), copper sulfate (1.5–2 g), 2–3 crystals of potassium permanganate and a drop of iodine.

A home-grown peach tree is sensitive to copper deficiency, a solution of copper sulphate will help to fill it

A neglected peach tree does not look very attractive and almost always refuses to bear fruit. Therefore, it needs regular pruning. Formation begins in about a year and a half, when the seedling reaches a height of 65–70 cm and several side shoots form on it.

It is on them that the fruits ripen. Therefore, the growth of the tree upwards must be slowed down. In principle, the grower is limited only by the height of the ceilings in his own apartment, but practice shows that the optimal height of a peach is 1.5–1.7 m.

The first peach pruning is pinching off the top at the desired height. They do it in the fall. Next spring, last year's lateral shoots are shortened by 2–3 buds, stimulating more intensive branching. And they also get rid of all poorly located branches directed inward and down the crown. It is recommended to leave annually 6-8 of the most developed side shoots, and cut the rest to the point of growth. Branches older than ten years are also removed; they will no longer bear fruit.

Video: peach pruning rules

How to properly vaccinate

A peach seedling obtained from a stone, if its variety is known, can be used as a graft for a garden tree. And sometimes, on the contrary, it is grown as a stock for a varietal cutting. Vaccination is carried out in several ways, but, in any case, the tool used in the process must be disinfected and sharply sharpened. Sterility is also very important. The less the grower touches the cuts, the better.

The most common method, including among gardeners. The best time for the procedure is the beginning of spring. The graft (the part of the plant being grafted) and the rootstock (the plant being grafted) should roughly match in diameter. At the first, the presence of at least three growth buds is mandatory.

Scion and rootstock should be approximately the same diameter, this applies not only to peach

The rootstock tree is cut at a height of 25–30 cm. Perpendicular to the cut plane, a vertical incision is made about 5 mm deep. The base of the scion cutting is cut at an angle on both sides, forming a V-shaped wedge.

To speed up the process, the scion base is soaked for several hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. In addition to store-bought preparations (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin), you can use, for example, succinic acid, aloe juice. Practice shows that powder products give much worse results.

Split grafting is the most popular method among gardeners and flower growers, you can graft one or two cuttings at once

The scion wedge is inserted into the split on the rootstock. He must enter there with some effort. Then the entire structure is fixed by wrapping it with plastic wrap, adhesive tape, electrical tape, or coating it with garden pitch. If you do not wrap it tightly enough, the moisture from the tissues will simply evaporate, and the stalk will dry out. When a characteristic “influx” appears on the bark around the graft, called callus by botanists, the film can be removed.

One of the main conditions for the success of vaccination is reliable fixation of the structure.

There are other methods of grafting - combining oblique cuts on the scion and rootstock, grafting on the bark (if it is thick enough). The procedure is not fundamentally different from splitting, but the first method at home gives the best results. The latter method is used extremely rarely at home - the process takes a long time, it is highly likely that the grafted cutting will simply break off after removing the polyethylene.

Budding

Budding is a slightly more complicated method that requires a certain experience from the grower. In fact, this is the same vaccination, but not a whole stalk is used as a scion, but only one growth bud. You can carry out budding at any time.

The kidney is cut along with a layer of tissue 2–3 mm thick and 2.5–3 cm wide (the so-called shield). It is advisable to do this in one motion. In the process, try to touch it as little as possible. The tool used is a scalpel or razor blade.

It is advisable to cut the kidney for budding in one motion, touching it as little as possible with your hands.

Further, on the bark of the rootstock tree, an incision is made in the shape of the letter X or T, 1.5–2 mm deep. If you gently bend the bark, something similar to a pocket is formed. The cut kidney is inserted into it, securely fixed with a strapping. It can be removed when callus forms, indicating that the procedure was successful.

Fixing a kidney on a scion requires the grower to have certain skills, if part of the bark sticks out of the "pocket", this is normal

The result of the procedure will become clear in about 25-30 days. In addition to the formation of callus, the success is indicated by the activation of the growth of the cutting or the "awakening" of the kidney. If this does not happen, the winding is carefully removed, the scion is removed, the vaccination site is disinfected by washing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and covered with garden pitch.

A growth bud that has taken root on the rootstock “wakes up” about a month later

What could be more interesting than growing some unusual and exotic plant for our places at home. For example, nectarine. However, it is not so difficult to do this. This is not an exaggeration, it really is. But there are a number of specific subtleties.

We will tell you in detail how to do everything right so that a real nectarine tree grows from a small bone in your home.

Preparation of nectarine seeds

The first step is to find a suitable planting material. To do this, select a well-ripened nectarine fruit, and, after cutting the pulp, remove the stone. Leave it for two or three days to dry.

After that, you need to get an almond-shaped seed from it. Taking a hammer, put the bone on the edge, and gently break it. It's like breaking a nut shell.

Gently breaking the bone with a hammer, remove the nectarine seed

Take a half-liter jar and fill it with fertile soil. After that, shallow bury the nectarine seeds in the ground, compact a little and water. Then cover the jar with a lid and put in a cold place. It is better to put somewhere away to the back wall in the refrigerator.

The fact is that the nectarine seed requires exposure to cold in order to germinate. That's the nature of this culture. Sometimes it takes two or three months, and sometimes all four. Moreover, all this time they do not require any care, and they do not need to be watered at all.

Periodically take out the jar and see if sprouts have appeared from under the ground. As soon as you see them, then the nectarine can be planted in a different container.

Another variant

Sometimes you can find advice not to put the nectarine seed in the soil at this stage, but, wrapping it in paper, just put it in the refrigerator for four months. A simple cooling is enough for the seed to wake up and grow. After the refrigerator, it is advised to keep it for a day in water at room temperature, and then plant it in the ground.

Planting a nectarine

Select the strongest seeds with the strongest and longest sprouts. If you want to limit yourself to one plant, then leave one seed, since you will need to plant exactly one seed per pot.

The container should be taken of medium size, with a volume of about two liters. Fill it with good quality soil, and plant the germinated seed to a depth of three to four centimeters. Now the pot should be put in a warm place.

Nectarine care at home

Pretty soon, literally in two weeks, a sprout should appear.

Remember the basic conditions necessary for the successful growth of nectarine:

this crop requires at least six hours of sunshine per day during the summer. This means that you need to keep the plant in a well-lit room, or make up for the lack of light with the help of artificial sources. In winter, there is no such need for light, so sometimes it is even advised to take the nectarine to the cellar in a cool place.

Nectarine is very fond of water and needs frequent watering. First of all, this applies to the summer season. However, moisture should not stagnate in the roots. Therefore, at the bottom of the containers where it will grow, it is imperative to lay drainage and make holes in them to drain excess water. In winter, watering can be done less frequently so that the ground is only slightly moist.

give nectarines regular and frequent feedings, especially with phosphorus-containing fertilizers. This can be done once every ten days, it is good to alternate mineral supplements with organic matter. This will promote flowering and fruit formation.

cut off the branches of the nectarine tree, forming low horizontal branches. This will create a bushy tree shape that is most advantageous for the space.

Subsequently, as the nectarine grows, it must be transplanted into larger containers. A transplant is done every year or two. As a result, you can reach a large tub with a volume of 40-50 liters. But when growing nectarine in a container, you have to accept that your tree will not be as big as if it were planted in the ground.

There are dwarf varieties, which will be enough for 10-12 liters of land volume.

Nectarine is a very fast-growing crop, and in nature, a nectarine tree begins to bear fruit in the third year. It is difficult to say whether this will happen at home, since a lot depends on the variety and many favorable factors are required.

When growing nectarines from a stone, trees with the same fruits do not always grow ...

Nectarine in your garden

Nectarines are propagated mainly by grafting (budding). At the same time, they retain all varietal characteristics.

The best rootstocks for nectarines – peach and almond. And on heavy waterlogged soils with close (less than 1.5 m) groundwater standing can be used as a stock seedlings of cherry plum or domestic plum. However, they are not compatible enough with some varieties of nectarines.

To grow a nectarine from a stone it is necessary, if possible, to pay attention to the nectarines growing on your site or on the plots of your neighbors, and see which ones are more stable and productive.

Planting nectarine seeds it is possible in summer, autumn and spring away from adult trees (3 - 4 m) and the shadow of the house. The landing site should be sheltered from cold winter winds with sufficient sunlight.

In the conditions of the south, in order to grow nectarine from the stone, nectarine seeds without shells can be planted immediately after removing the fruit from the tree. To do this, the seeds are separated from the fruits of nectarine and soaked for at least three days. The water in which the nectarine seeds are located must be changed at least twice a day. After the bones have been soaked in water, they must be dried so that direct sunlight does not fall on them.

In order to grow nectarine from seeds, they are planted in a kind of school. To do this, they dig a trench, fill it with fertile, fertilized soil, plant nectarine seeds to a depth of 5–6 cm with a distance of 20–25 cm and water abundantly. They are well covered for the winter (sawdust, leaves, grass, etc.).

In order to grow nectarine from a stone, you can also plant them before winter, during the cold period the bones will undergo stratification (keeping) and self-reject. At the same time, nectarine seeds should not be soaked.

It is better to plant nectarine seeds in October or November and also well cover for the winter.

Spring need take off covering layer, leaving a few centimeters so that the soil does not dry out. From the seed of a nectarine, a root is first formed, and only later a stem is formed. Therefore, the earth needs loose, soft and fertilized.

Watering nectarine stones are needed daily.

Desirable feed seedlings with diluted humus and sprinkled with special preparations (Ridomil or Thiovit), small nectarines, like peaches, are very painful.

If you decide that you will start growing nectarine from the stone in the spring, and there is a risk of damage to the seeds by rodents, then store the nectarine seeds until December - January indoors, and then stratify. To do this, one part of the nectarine seeds is mixed with three parts of the substrate of sawdust, sand or a mixture of sawdust and sand, moistened and placed in a plastic bag or clay pot, placed in a cool room or put in a refrigerator with a temperature of plus 3 - 5 °. During the winter, they are periodically moistened so that they retain a constant moisture. Sprouted nectarine seeds are sown in the ground.

Nectarine seedlings are well looked after and must be watered. Already in the third year, seedlings can bear fruit.

At the same time, it should still be remembered that when growing nectarines from a stone, trees with the same fruits from which the stones were taken do not always grow.

Pruning and shaping the nectarine crown. When pruning, a nectarine, like a peach, forms a cup-shaped (vase-shaped) crown that does not have a central conductor. Nectarine is a photophilous plant and this type of crown allows most branches to get better access to light.

The nectarine stem is 40 - 50 cm and usually has 3, less often 4 skeletal branches of the first order, which can be removed from adjacent buds or placed at intervals of 5 - 10 cm from one another.

Nectarine is a delicious fruit brought to us from southern countries. Many prefer nectarine for its beautiful smooth shape and taste, a bit reminiscent of a peach.

It turns out that this marvelous plant perfectly takes root and bears fruit in our country. These are, first of all, the varieties "Ruby 8", "Fantasy", "Stark Delicious", their fruits are among the most delicious.

Nectarine fruits do not cause allergies, with proper storage they can be stored for a long time, the skin is dense, so they easily endure transportation.

Summer residents propagate nectarine in two ways: seedlings and seeds. Seedlings are grafted onto a peach tree and the first fruits are harvested the next year. Reproduction with the help of seedlings requires some skill and dexterity, but reproduction with the help of seeds is within the power of any "beginner" summer resident.

How to grow nectarine from seed?

Bones for planting need to choose the strongest and most “reliable”, that is, they must be extracted from the latest nectarine fruits that have reached maturity. Bones collected at the end of summer have the best germination percentage.

The bones for drying are placed in a dry room for a couple of days. Then they are soaked for a week, and the water must be drained daily and replaced with fresh water. After soaking, the seeds must be planted in a small flower pot (in winter).

During the winter, some seeds should sprout and gradually several shoots will grow from them. They need to be watered (if necessary) like a regular houseplant, young shoots are picky.

In early spring, the strongest ones are selected from the sprouts and planted in their summer cottage. The main care for seedlings is as follows. It is necessary to water and “feed” a couple of times in time (the first time during planting, the second - a month later). There should be no weeds and country "waste" around the tree.

Nectarine perfectly adapts and grows in loamy and sandy loamy soils. For planting, you must choose the southern part of the garden plot. The plant should receive the maximum amount of sunlight during the day. A peach tree should not grow near the nectarine; this threatens the nectarine with infection with various diseases, the main of which are fungal.

In the first years, a plant grown from seeds will begin to bear fruits, the quality of which will be low, but gradually the tree will get stronger and begin to fully bear fruit. If the nectarine is grown in an area where the summer is damp and cold, then the tree will not bear fruit.

For many of us, the peach is still an exotic fruit that can be enjoyed only by buying it in the market. But there are gardeners who have already tried to grow a peach on their own. Someone succeeded, but someone violated agricultural technology and the young peach disappeared.

If you also want to grow a peach, then you will need valuable experience in successful peach cultivation from experienced gardeners. Especially since peach can be grown even from the seed, so you don't even have to buy seedlings or do grafting. The first thing you have to do is to buy several large ripe, but not spoiled peach fruits at the point of sale.

It will be very good if these are fruits from a rooted, and not grafted, tree. We also advise you to buy peaches "by hand" from gardeners. Since, their fruits will be taken from trees that bear fruit in your area, and not brought from abroad.

A zoned peach pit is more likely to germinate and survive in your climate. So, after you have enjoyed the juicy pulp of a peach, carefully inspect the bones. Select those that do not have defects.

Secrets of growing peach from the stone

Peach pits should be planted in open ground before winter (October, November). If you do this in spring or summer, young seedlings may not have time to get stronger and freeze in winter.

The most optimal for planting are the bones of late, medium-late and medium varieties of peach. It is recommended to plant the seeds immediately after removing them from the fruit, while they are not yet dry. If this is not possible, they will have to be stratified.

To speed up germination, some gardeners recommend soaking the seeds in clean water for a couple of days. Water must be changed 2 times a day. Then the bones should be removed from the water and allowed to dry, after which, by hitting them with a hammer, remove the seed.

But doing this is not necessary at all. And now let's figure it out. Peach pit should be planted in loose, soft and well-fertilized soil. The distance to the nearest trees should be at least 3 meters, because the peach loves the sun very much.

Make several rows at a distance of 50 cm from each other, in each row, after 10 cm, lay out the bones and sprinkle the holes with earth, then mulch with grass (the thicker the layer, the better). In the spring, after germination, start watering the sprouts abundantly with water. It will not be superfluous to feed young trees with humus and spray them from pests and diseases. By the end of summer, if everything goes well, your trees will be about 1.5 meters high, and they will begin to grow side branches. If you want to transplant a tree to a new place , you need to prepare a hole for him at least 1 meter deep in the fall.

The place should be sunny and protected from the wind. Next spring, you can already transplant the young tree to a new place. After transplanting, the peach should be thoroughly watered with settled water and mulched with manure or peat.

But before that, remove all diseased and frozen branches. It is necessary to cut peach branches every spring, forming a cup-shaped crown.

When can we expect the first peach harvest?

peach grown from the pit You will see already at 3, maximum 4 years. But be prepared for the fact that you will grow a semi-wild variety of peaches, and not an exact likeness of the ones you bought. But your peach will delight you with disease resistance and abundant harvests. That's how easy it is!

Landing Features

We have already told how and when to plant a peach. Now let's figure out how to choose the optimal area and calculate the distances between the trees. So, question number 1: Where is the best place to plant peach trees? Choose the most illuminated place on the site.

The tree is southern and grows well only if it is saturated with sunlight. The more light gets on the plantings, the more juicy the fruits will be. It is desirable that cold air does not stagnate in the chosen place.

And remember about moisture, with its lack of skin on the fruit will crack. Mulch the near-stem circle (if the groundwater is too deep) and water the plant periodically. Before planting a peach orchard, be sure to calculate the minimum distance between the trees.

It is equal to the sum of the heights of adult peach plants. Don't trust the schemes that roam the internet. They suggest the possibility of planting the maximum number of trees on the site. There is no mention of harvest.

Understand that the quantity and quality of fruits directly depends on the conditions created for the growth of plants. The more acceptable the environment (sufficiency of sun, water, proper care, etc.), the higher the fruitfulness.

Agree, it is better to collect 10 buckets of fruits from one tree than 6-7 bowls from three plants. You can find more detailed information about the distance on our website in the garden care section.

Having decided to grow this crop from a seed, you should know how to properly plant a peach seed, because the success of the work largely depends on this: good rooting, full growth, subsequent yield. For planting, it is recommended to take the seeds of ripened fruits of grafted and own-rooted trees.

Seedlings grown from the seed of the fruit of an own-rooted tree will receive 70 - 80% of the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. A peach obtained from the seed of the fruit of a grafted plant is grafted when the thickness of the trunk at the root collar is about 1 cm.

Landing can be carried out at different times of the year. Experienced gardeners prefer to plant the seeds of this tree before winter (in October-November), since during the cold period they will undergo natural stratification, while only the strongest of them will sprout.

When planted in spring and summer, weak, immature seedlings may not endure winter frosts. Planting peaches in the fall will be most successful if you use varieties of medium, medium-late and late ripening.

Before embedding in the ground, the bones must be dried in the shade in the fresh air. If planting will be done after a few days, the seeds should be placed in a container with warm water for several days. Water change 2 times a day.

After stratification, the seeds are dried and carefully pierced in such a way that, without damaging the seed, it can be removed from the hard shell.

How to plant a peach seed: site selection

If there is an opportunity in the garden to choose a site for planting a peach, it is recommended to place it in a sunny place, since light and heat are necessary for the ripening of fruits, the proper growth of shoots and the laying of flower buds of this crop. A peach can withstand a little shade, but it will negatively affect its fruiting.

A thermophilic fruit plant cannot be planted where stagnation of cold air occurs. During flowering, a temperature of 1 - 2 °C below 0 °C can ruin the future crop. Before planting a peach from the stone into the ground, it is necessary to prepare the soil in advance.

Despite its whimsical growing conditions, the tree can grow well in almost any soil with good drainage. You can get an idea about the drainage of a garden plot using the following observations.

If the soil is poorly dug up, strongly compacted, and puddles remain on it after rain, this indicates a high content of clay in it. In such soil, moisture is absorbed very slowly and also slowly leaves.

You can improve its condition with peat, manure or compost. Soils in which water is retained for a long time must be drained, otherwise the roots will rot after a while, and the tree itself will die.

If the soil is too loose, loose, dries quickly, this indicates an excess of sand or gravel in it, or a lack of nutrients. In this case, organic fertilizer should be applied to help retain moisture longer and enrich the soil with essential nutrients.

The ideal soil for planting peach is slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5. In excessively acidic soil (pH below 5.8), lime is applied. This work is carried out a month before fertilization or a month after that.

When preparing the site where the tree will grow, the soil is cleared of weeds. For severe infestations, herbicides are used. Before planting, organic fertilizer is applied to improve soil structure. The amount of fertilizer depends on its condition and composition.

The prepared peach seed is immediately planted in open ground to a depth of 6 - 8 cm at a distance of at least 2 - 3 m from other trees and nearby buildings that cast a shadow. Some time after planting a peach, roots begin to form from the seed, then a stem.

In the first month after planting the seeds, the soil must be kept loose and moderately moist. During the summer, the seedling grows up to 130 cm, after which the crown begins to develop, which must be properly formed in the first year of the plant's life. In autumn, strong side branches are left, they will form the skeleton of the crown, the rest are cut "under the ring".

Planting and transplanting peach

In the second year in the spring, you can transplant the plant to a permanent place. Peach planting in the spring should be carried out as early as possible, immediately after the soil warms up.

On the day of transplanting the peach, you need to dig a hole of such depth and width that the roots of the seedling fit freely in it. At the bottom of the pit, mix rotted sod, manure, peat or compost with the soil. When placing the plant in a hole, use a pruner to remove roots that are too long.

When placing a tree, it is important to ensure that the root collar is at ground level. After placement, you can fill up the hole. First, the roots are sprinkled with the top layer of soil, then the rest of the soil, constantly shaking the seedling so that the earth passes between the roots.

At the end of the planting, the soil should be crushed and the surface leveled. Cover the trunk circle with a layer of mulch using rotted manure, peat or compost. It is recommended to tie a one-year-old seedling to a stake with a plastic bundle, folding it in the form of a figure eight. Two-year-old seedlings need a stronger bond, but a spacer should be placed between the stake and the trunk to prevent damage to the bark.

Planting a peach from the stone (with video)

The first 2 - 3 years, until the young plant gets stronger for the winter period, it must be insulated with sawdust, grass or fallen leaves. Trees growing near the walls can be protected from frost by covering them with straw or burlap. In central Russia, this crop often suffers from lack of moisture, frostbite and infection with fungal diseases. To successfully grow a tree, you need to choose varieties with increased winter hardiness and carry out full-fledged peach care, which includes annual crown pruning, fertilization, spraying on dry, hot days, watering and pest control. Knowing how to plant a peach and following all recommendations in practice, after 3-4 years, the gardener will receive the first harvest of fruits. A video of planting a peach can be viewed below:

Enjoying juicy peaches, some people think: is it really possible to grow a peach tree in your own garden? Yes, it’s real, and it’s not even necessary to buy peach seedlings for this. The country of the Soviets will tell how to grow peach from seed. Suitable for growing bones of ripe, juicy, but not spoiled fruits. It is best to take for this purpose peaches of varieties typical of your area. "Alien" varieties will either grow poorly or not take root at all. It is also good if you can find out on which tree the fruit grew - own-rooted or grafted. Preference should be given to the first. Carefully inspect the bones selected for planting: they must be intact, without defects. Bones are planted in open ground in October-November (before winter). If you try to grow a peach from the stone in summer or spring, the seedlings will not have time to get stronger, and may not survive the winter. In addition, the seeds of early ripe varieties may not germinate at all; for planting, it is better to take the seeds of varieties of medium, mid-season and late ripening. Seeds should be planted as quickly as possible, without allowing them to dry out., otherwise they will have to be stratified. Sometimes, before planting, the bones are prepared by soaking for several days in water (the water must be changed twice a day). Then the seeds are allowed to dry and pricked with a hammer to extract the seed (this must be done carefully so as not to damage the tender kernel). However, this preparation is not mandatory. Peach pits should be planted in soft, loose, well-fertilized soil. at a distance of at least 3-4 m from adult fruit-bearing trees. Seed planting depth is about 5-8 cm (not deeper), in a row, the distance between planting should be about 10 cm, the distance between rows should be 50 cm. It is better to plant more seeds than you want to get peach trees, because not all of them will sprout , well, if half. After planting, you need to mulch the crops with a thick layer of grass. In the spring, when the shoots sprout, they will need. It is advisable to feed the peach with diluted humus and spray it with special preparations for the prevention of diseases. Over the summer, the peach seedling will reach a height of about one and a half meters, side branches will begin to appear on it. When the main trunk reaches a height of 70 cm, you can start practicing. However, the main pruning is performed next spring, removing diseased and frozen branches. In the future peach pruning is done annually, in spring, between the appearance of rose buds and flowering. The crown of the tree is formed in the form of a bowl. Every year, shoots for fruiting should be left along the axes of skeletal branches of any order (the distance between shoots is 15-20 cm), the rest should be cut “on the ring” (i.e., on the entire branch). Also next spring you can transplant a peach to a permanent place. For transplantation, it is necessary to dig a hole at least a meter deep in the fall in the sunniest and most wind-protected place on the site. After planting, water the peach with two or three buckets of settled water and mulch with peat or rotted manure. Usually a peach begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year.. Please note that there is no guarantee that you will be able to grow an exact copy of the peach you like from the seed, most likely, a “semi-savage” will grow. But peaches grown from the stone on their own plot are usually more resistant to diseases and the vagaries of the weather, they freeze less in winter and give more abundant harvests. As you can see, it is quite possible to grow a peach from the stone, the main thing is to follow simple rules above. A little patience - and you will be able to feast on peaches grown in your own garden.

How to grow nectarine from seed at home? (1 of 2)

Everyone at least once in their life has tried some exotic or human-made fruit by crossing. An example is the nectarine. Therefore, you need to tell how to grow nectarine from a stone at home. You will need:

• Drainage

Often, some people have the idea to grow a nectarine at home. The article will reveal several secrets of growing nectarines. The nectarine is a well-known peach, but its distinctive feature is its smooth surface.

There is a myth that nectarine is a mixture of peach and plum. But in fact, a mutation led to the appearance of this fruit. It is because of it that on a peach tree you can find both the fruits of nectarine and the peach itself.

However, having almost the same origin, they still differ in composition. Compared to peach, nectarine is richer in microelements such as organic acids, compounds of phosphorus, potassium, iron, fructose, glucose, etc. Nectarine also contains twice as much provitamin A.

How to grow nectarine from a stone at home in order to always have fruits with therapeutic and prophylactic properties on hand? After all, these fruits not only improve the digestion process (allow you to speed up the absorption of "heavy" food), but also have a positive effect on the vascular system of the human body.

Nectarine is also used to remove toxins and other harmful substances from the body. In addition, nectarine is used by cosmetologists. On the basis of this fruit, balms, creams, aromatic oils are produced.

Fruit helps keep the body in good shape. It should be noted that it is not so easy to grow a tree that would bear nectarine fruits, and in order to implement this idea, you will first need a positive attitude.

Cultivation of P E R S I C A and A B R I C O C A

First you need to purchase at a retail outlet or, if possible, pick a nectarine fruit from a tree, which should be ripe enough, fragrant and tasty. In this case, preference should be given to later varieties, since it is they who have the ability to retain the taste properties of the mother tree.

Before you grow a nectarine from a stone, you should get these seeds. That is, the next step is to separate the stones from the selected fruits. It should be remembered that they must also be of high quality - without cracks or other damage.

After thoroughly cleaning the bones from the pulp tissue, they should be subjected to a slight heat treatment (maximum a couple of hours) to dry them.

The next step is soaking the prepared bones, which should last from 4 to 6 days. In this case, a prerequisite is the daily change of water in the vessel. At the end of the specified period, the stratification process is carried out.

It provides for the location of the seeds in a box filled with river sand and sawdust. In the box (it can be a pot) there must be drainage holes, the presence of which allows you to adjust the amount of moisture (obtained during watering). After all, excess moisture can lead to rotting of the bones.

After the above steps are done, the container with the hidden bones should be placed in the ground. The box or pot should be level with the ground.

After watering the buried container, you need to cover this place with several layers of grass and sawdust. It should be remembered that the protective so-called blanket should be at least 10 cm in height. And the fallen snow can also be used to cover this area.

As you know, snow is an excellent protector against sudden and uncontrolled freezing of the soil. How to plant seed nectarine at home in order to enjoy their taste in the future?

It should be taken into account the important circumstance that all of the above actions should be carried out at the end of autumn. The seeds planted in this way overwinter, and with the advent of spring, after they germinate, it is necessary to produce their seedlings in a permanent place.

But that is not all. The attention of the owner is important, because its further fruiting depends on the quality of care for a young seedling.

It needs fairly frequent watering and feeding, and also from time to time it is necessary to give it special treatment, as small pests can destroy a nectarine tree. Although, it is interesting to know that the peach tree is much weaker in relation to such diseases. It is recommended that selection be made only after the first harvest, because it is then that it is possible to reliably assess which seedlings should be selected.

Bone mango.

Therefore, in the spring, the right decision would be to give a chance to all the trees that managed to survive in the cold season. Thus, if you take into account all the subtleties mentioned in the process of growing a nectarine tree, you can achieve good results.

Soon, the seedlings will acquire immunity, which will allow them to develop quite actively in the future. And after a few years, the nectarine tree will bear the first fruits. Most likely, they will be slightly smaller than usual sizes, but in terms of taste they will not differ from those bought in the store.