Installing a steel bath: tips and tricks. How to fix the bathtub so that it does not swing: recommendations of the masters Special brackets for attaching the bathtub to the wall

1 Cast iron, steel and acrylic - what is the difference
2 Fastening baths and communications to them
3 Wall mounting options
4 Large gap from the wall - what to do
5 Videos

One of the most important elements in bathrooms is a bathtub, despite the fact that relatively inexpensive shower stalls are considered more popular today. Many people are interested in how to fix the bathtub to the wall in such a way that the water along the wall does not flow under the bathtub, and the bathtub itself does not stagger. For this purpose, special fasteners are used, they may differ significantly, given the difference in the types of baths.

Cast iron, steel and acrylic - what's the difference

Cast iron baths. During installation, you will feel that these bathtubs weigh a lot, so they need to be installed on a solid and stable base.

Steel baths are fixed on a podium, the walls of which are made of bricks. The bathtub installed inside the podium will never sway and will become very solid on its base. However, if you fix the bath in this way, then noise during its filling with water cannot be avoided.

You can reduce the sound while filling the bathtub by treating its outer part with polyurethane foam or putty. Then you will not hear the sound of water, in addition, the heat will remain in the bath longer.

Those who install an acrylic bath know that it keeps heat much better than its cast iron counterparts, besides, their surface is non-slip. Acrylic bathtubs are also known for their pleasant appearance, although, however, the degree of its strength is not so high. Considering that an acrylic bathtub has a flexible bottom, a metal frame should be made for such a bathtub, otherwise the bottom of the bathtub will bend under the weight of a person. It is also necessary to use special legs, which are part of the frame for bathtubs made of acrylic and steel.

Fastening baths and communications to them

Regardless of which bathtub will be installed, it is necessary to learn a few basic principles that will help to carry out the installation of the bathtub correctly:

It is more convenient to attach drain pipes when the bathtub is on its side. Carefully turn it on its side, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the bath coating. After that, the overflow and drain pipes are mounted to it.
The next step is to connect the siphon to pipes (usually plastic and flexible).
Legs are attached to the bathroom in its recumbent position, and it is installed on them so that it is easy to connect the siphon pipes to the sewage system.
The bathtub is placed on the legs only after the drain is installed.
Once placed in the proper place, the bathtub is leveled horizontally using a level (for this, the height of the legs must be adjusted).
After completing the installation of the drain system, it must be checked for leaks. To do this, you need to put water into the bath, and then check if it has leaked onto the floor. If there is a leak, the shortcomings must be eliminated - to seal the seams with silicone or just fit the pipes more tightly at the joints.
Then, if necessary, a plasterboard frame or a special podium made of foam blocks is arranged, which will hide the bottom of the bath.

How to install bathtubs made of different materials? Now we will analyze this in detail.

Cast iron baths are often installed on four legs. These legs are connected to the body with wedges supplied, or the bath supports can be bolted down. If a cast iron bathtub must be installed on an insufficiently strong loose surface, then metal plates should be used, which are placed under the legs and allow the weight of the bathtub to be correctly distributed over the base surface.

The diameter of such a lining must be at least 5 cm and the thickness must be 5 mm or more.

Steel baths do not weigh as much as cast iron, so it is somewhat more difficult to give them stability. It is better to install them on bricks to increase the support area. The acrylic bathtub is attached exclusively to the wall, otherwise a slight backlash or wobbling cannot be avoided. In addition, the frame is assembled, with the help of which the entire structure will be somewhat strengthened. In the video below you can see how the frame of the acrylic bathtub is being installed in the bathroom:

Wall mounting options

There are several ways to fix the bathtub to the wall.

Niche insert... If the installation of the bath is carried out in the bathroom, where there is not even a rough finish yet, then the niche can be omitted if, given the dimensions, this is not necessary. The bath is simply installed, the walls are plastered, they are finished and the joint is treated with a sealant so that it does not run along the wall. If you are going to install a bath in this way in a bathroom, where there is already a rough finish on the walls, you need to purchase a bath of the appropriate size and prepare a niche in the wall for it. The diagram shows how to properly install the bath in this way.

In principle, the first method is also possible, but it is not as reliable as installation in case the tile is already lying. In this case, the bathtub is attached to the wall only with a sealant and decorative plinth.

Installation on a metal corner... Cast iron and steel baths can be installed on a metal corner, it is attached along all walls, and the sides of the bath are installed on it. Further, if desired, a plinth is installed, the joints are treated with sanitary sealant. Why can't you attach an acrylic bathtub to the corner? Because the side can be deformed, since it is not supported by anything from the inside, as a result, the sealant will move away from the wall, and water will seep onto the floor.

Installation on hooks or brackets... This is the best way to fix acrylic bathtubs. To install an acrylic bathtub on hooks or brackets, you must install the bathtub in place, leveling it. Having retreated 20 cm from its corners, they make marks. Then the bath is pushed back, the thickness of its sides is measured, this distance is measured down from the marks on the wall and holes are made for one or two dowels. Install the mounts. Then the tub is simply put on hooks or brackets with the sides. Everything - the bathtub is rigidly fixed. A plastic or ceramic plinth is glued on top of the seam, and the joint is treated with a sealant.

Large gap from the wall - what to do

It often happens that after the bath is already installed, a decent distance remains between it and the wall. Since the bathtub does not touch three walls in this case, it will wobble. To fix it firmly, it is necessary to create a frame that can simultaneously be used as a shelf for shampoos and various jars.

What do you need? First of all, the frame is assembled with the help of metal profiles. Then it is sheathed with drywall. For this purpose, a special moisture-resistant drywall is used. It is imperative to make a niche with a door so that you can get to the plumbing system.

Alternatively, instead of a frame, you can attach a bar to the wall so that its top is slightly higher than the level of the bathtub. A shelf is made on the bar, which will lie on the bath. At the same time, it should have a slight slope towards the bathtub so that water does not accumulate.

This video shows how to use the special clamps for mounting acrylic bathtubs:

Bathtub installation is quite hard work in the truest sense of the word. This is especially true of cast-iron plumbing, installing which alone is an almost impossible task.

For the installation, even of relatively light acrylic bathtubs, it is better to find yourself an assistant, since any awkward manipulations can lead to damage to the case, coating or drain parts.

Things to consider before starting work

Before you start installing the bath on your own, critically evaluate your own capabilities - whether you have enough skills to practically touch the plumbing fixtures. Although we note that even very modest skills acquired, for example, when installing a kitchen sink, should be enough for a successful bath installation.

When purchasing plumbing fixtures made of acrylic, be prepared for the fact that the work will have to be done with the utmost care - if you handle it carelessly, the bathtub can be skewed, as a result of which the coating will crack. It will also be damaged if the working tool accidentally falls into the bowl. In addition, during installation in the body of the acrylic bathtub, you will have to drill blind holes, and given that this material is drilled extremely easily, it is quite possible to overdo it and drill through the bathtub.

What you need to know about cast iron bathtubs

Before purchasing a cast-iron bathtub, you need to familiarize yourself as closely as possible with its features:

It is better to support such a bathtub on three walls at once, especially if it is installed on open decorative legs, since the latter can easily break from the lateral force applied to the bathtub.
It is advisable to fix the siphon to the drain hole in advance, while, again, the heavy bath will have to be turned over again, which can lead to various damage.
Cast iron bathtubs are quite expensive to purchase, but they are also expensive to operate.

When installing cast iron, be careful not to damage the tiles on the floor.
For this, bricks are usually placed under the legs.

Cast iron takes a long time to warm up - in order to fill the bath with warm forty-degree water, a boiler that heats water to 60 degrees will require about 100 liters of water. For comparison, the same acrylic bathtub will require only 50 liters of water heated in a boiler to 60 degrees. It should also be borne in mind that cast iron gives off the received heat much faster, therefore, in terms of efficiency, a cast iron bath is more than twice inferior to an acrylic bath.

Features of acrylic bathtubs

Unlike cast iron, acrylic bathtubs are quite lightweight, which makes it possible to carry out their installation alone. In the production of acrylic sanitary ware, enterprises do not experience any technological difficulties associated with giving products any complex shape, therefore, a variety of samples can be found on sale, but at the same time they are quite inexpensive.

The thermal conductivity of this material is rather low so that the bath does not cool down for a long time, while it is heated almost instantly. This is associated with significant savings in the operation of acrylic plumbing, as already mentioned above.

Fasten the assembled frame to the acrylic bathtub in the bathroom,
otherwise, it may not fit into a standard 60 cm doorway.

The main disadvantage of acrylic bathtubs is their relatively low strength and not as long as that of cast iron bathtubs. Nevertheless, with careful use, it can reach 15 or even 20 years. Review - read the next article.

The installation method for acrylic bathtubs is also different from cast iron, which is due to the characteristics of the material.

Installation of cast iron baths

A cast iron bath, as previously noted, is extremely heavy, and it is with this circumstance that some of the features of its installation are associated:

Installation of acrylic bathtubs

First of all, when installing an acrylic bathtub, it will be necessary to attach the guides for the legs to its bottom, which are attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws.

All markings are carried out in accordance with the instructions, while the lodgements are installed strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath.

The attachment points for the legs usually have an increased thickness of acrylic.
If this is not the case, glue the wooden blocks and screw to them.

It is necessary to drill blind holes for self-tapping screws with a drill with a stop about 3/4 of their length. After that, the legs themselves are installed, the drain fittings are mounted.

Extension of the bypass pipe should be provided.

The side of the bath is set on plastic hooks that are attached to the wall with dowels.

The bath is installed in the desired place and is leveled in height using adjusting screws.

Note. It is not necessary to adjust the slope of the bath for draining; it is structurally laid down when the bath bowl is being ejected.

All cracks are sealed with silicone, the nodules of which can be removed with a cloth soaked in vinegar solution.

There is also an option for restoring the bath - this is, read all the subtleties of this method in a separate article.

During installation, an important role is played by the height to which you can raise the bath above the level of the sewer. It should be raised higher for two reasons:

The drain from the bath will become more intense. In this case, it is not so much the speed of water removal that is important, but the fact that a powerful drain will almost completely eliminate the formation of hair lumps on the drain grid and in the siphon.
The high location of the bath will make it possible to install a siphon with a deep elbow and, accordingly, a good water seal, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of an unpleasant smell and harmful gases penetrating back from the sewer.

Deep knee - protection against unpleasant sewage odors

The choice of material is also important. In most cases, it is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polypropylene. The latter material is more expensive, but at the same time it is stronger, more durable, its walls are smoother, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

A few words should also be said regarding the choice of plum. So, too cheap models of siphons, the metal mesh of which is attached to a bolt, in fact, can be considered non-separable, and therefore not repairable. The fact is that after a few months, rust grabs the bolt so much that it is not possible to unscrew it without breaking the siphon. It does not even matter what metal the hardware is made of - steel or, for example, bronze or brass. It's just that in the first case we will observe ordinary chemical corrosion, and in the rest - electrochemical.

In conclusion, note that for overflow in the bathroom, you should not take a hard pipe at all... For this, a flexible corrugated hose is quite suitable, which, on the one hand, is extremely easy to install, and on the other hand, due to its larger internal diameter, it provides better water permeability, which reduces the likelihood that water from the bathroom will overflow.

Installing a bathtub is a responsible business, because this plumbing item has a very heavy load. An improperly installed and poorly secured bathtub can leak, and in the worst cases, roll over and injure the owners. Therefore, before installing, read our article, from which you will learn about the ways of attaching the bath and the correct procedure for the production of work.

Material features

Regardless of the type, there are basic principles for installing a bath:

Installation of various baths

As we mentioned earlier, the type of attachment depends on the selected bath.

In general, the following steps can be distinguished on how to install a bathtub to the wall:

the bath is laid on its side, and a drain pipe is mounted to it;
a floor siphon is connected to pipes, most often, these are flexible plastic pipes;
legs are attached to the bathroom, and it is installed so that the siphon pipes can be connected to the sewer;
check the tightness of the connected sewer;
if necessary, construct a drywall frame, a podium from foam blocks and install spacers.

How to close a large gap in a wall

Usually, after installing the bath, there may be a large distance between the end and the wall. This will not allow the bath to be securely fixed on three sides, and it will shake. In this case, you can turn a disadvantage into an advantage, and create a skeleton. As a result, you will have a shelf between the bathroom and the wall, on which you can put shampoos, powder and other accessories.

There are several ways to close a large gap:

Create a frame from profiles, then sheathe it with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Do not forget to make a hatch for access to plumbing.
Fix a block to the wall and make a shelf. One side of it will hold on to the bar, the other on the bathtub or frame.
If you don't have a punch, you can use another solution - cut a strip of extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam and insert it tightly into the slot. This is necessary so that the mortar does not fall off during embedding. Make a layer of plaster on top and cover up all the cracks. You can also use polyurethane foam for this. Thus, in literally 15 minutes you will close up a large gap, get rid of the rumble and banging on the walls. If you already have tiles installed, cover them with masking tape so as not to stain the surface.

When creating a shelf near the bathtub, make it with a slope so that water does not accumulate there, but flows down. In addition, it is important to install the bath itself with a slope towards the drain so that the water does not stagnate.

Installation on the podium

To install the bathtub on a podium made of bricks or foam blocks, an elevated platform is created. The bath is placed on the podium, while the legs remain on the floor. Before laying, the podium, walls and bottom are abundantly coated with polyurethane foam.

Instead of a brick podium, you can fill plastic bottles with water, close them tightly, and lay them on the floor. They will serve as a space filler when you need to create a "thick pillow". Treat them generously with polyurethane foam and lay the "belly" of the bath on them. This method is much cheaper and faster than a brick podium.

Homemade podium made of polyurethane foam and bottles.

Another option is to create a wall that will support the board and hide the internal communications. This method is especially suitable if you have glue feet, as they will not be able to reliably support the weight of the water and your body.

Tiles are laid on top of the wall, or choose another finish.

If you have any questions, watch the video instruction on installing and attaching the bath to the podium:

After installing and fixing the bath, be sure to make sure that the seal is secure so as not to accidentally flood your neighbors.

Old-style cast iron bathtubs are quite difficult to move. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are rather unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble during use or budge at the slightest shock, spoiling the wall and floor finish. Let's talk about how to fix the bathtub - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.

The stability of the bath depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing. In order for the bathtub to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5-3 centimeters on each side. Under these conditions, it will be easier to fix the bowl to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case, there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably enter during use.

Features of the device of steel baths

Of all the types of bathtubs, steel models are the most difficult to install fixedly. This is due to two features of their design:

low weight of the bowl;
lack of mounts for the legs.

On cast iron and acrylic models, special fasteners are usually located on the outside of the bowl, to which the legs can be securely screwed. The steel bath manufacturers have dropped these parts. Since steel is a rather soft material, there is a high risk that when using the bath, under the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it, it may bend. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.

Feet for steel plumbing are usually a kind of trestle or support. It is assumed that the bathtub simply rests on them. Some models of legs can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for a more secure fit with the bottom of the bowl. But this does not improve the situation too much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.

How to fix a steel tub so it doesn't wobble

There are several ways to install a steel bath in a stable position. Most often it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not for everyone. Firstly, the execution of brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner will be able to build a reliable stand with his own hands. And in this case, rather high requirements are imposed on the quality of the masonry, since moisture and serious weight will constantly affect it.

Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old foundation, interfloor floors may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can turn into a communal accident for you and your neighbors below. Plus, not everyone wants to wait a few days until the masonry mortar dries up and acquires the strength necessary for installing plumbing. Therefore, it is better to use simpler options for fixing the bath.

Advice: if you still want to install a steel bathtub on a stand, do it not from brick, but from aerated block. This material weighs much less and is more convenient to mount.

The simplest and most reliable methods for installing a steel bath include:

fastening to walls on metal corners;
installation on a frame made of a metal profile;
use of special fasteners.

How does the installation of the bath begin?

Whichever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - the installation of the bath begins with a fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on the legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage system. After that, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of the water drain. As you know, the bathtub should be at a slight angle: only in this case, the drain will work correctly.

Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. In the future, you will use these marks to install fasteners for the bath: steel or acrylic. After applying the marks, disconnect the plumbing device from the communications and take it out of the room.

Important! The final installation of the steel bath, regardless of the methods of its fixing, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely tiled or other material.

Installation of a steel bowl on corners

A fairly reliable option for attaching the bath is in addition to the legs, support it with the sides on wide corners of metal bolted to the walls. This method will suit you if the walls of the room are made of a sufficiently strong material and leveled with plaster or tile glue. It is better not to attach the bath to plasterboard structures: they will not withstand such a weight.

Important! The installation of the corners should be done after the finishing of the walls of the room has been completed.

You can hang the corners only on two walls, which will then abut the short edges of the bowl, or on all three vertical surfaces with which it will be in contact. In order not to damage the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, through them, you can drill directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill with a victorious soldering or a perforator.

The place of attachment of the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bathtub will rest on them with bumpers, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.

Installing the bath on the frame

If you plan to cover the space under the bowl, the best way to reinforce the steel tub so it doesn't wobble is to place it on a metal frame. The structure is made of UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor with dowels as a base for the frame. The upper frame and supports for it are assembled from the second. It is also possible to manufacture a welded support structure from:

metal corner;
steel pipes of a suitable diameter.

Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, and the bath itself stands firmly on its legs.

Corner posts from the profile are fastened to the upper and lower frames, and also, for greater reliability, attached to the walls of the room. The frame should be erected after finishing the walls, or at least after tiling that part of them that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of the installation, the frame can be sheathed with plastic panels or drywall, which is then tiled.

Important! When trimming, do not forget to leave an inspection hatch for access to the utilities located under the bathroom.

Using special fasteners

If the bath bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can limit yourself to fixing it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing the walls. In the future, the fasteners are hidden under, which contributes not only to an increase in the aesthetics of the room, but also to an increase in the reliability of fastening.

Acrylic baths today are gradually replacing other types of similar plumbing. They are made from lightweight, practical material. At the same time, the cost of acrylic bathtubs remains acceptable for buyers. In order for them to last a long time, you need to properly mount the bowl. You can do this procedure yourself. How to mount an acrylic bathtub to the wall will be discussed below.

Features of acrylic

Installation of an acrylic bathtub can be done independently. This is due to the peculiarities of this material. It is lightweight and practical. Therefore, products made from it are much easier to install in the bathroom than, for example, cast iron or steel bowls.

The advantage of acrylic bathtubs is the variety of their shapes and sizes. If desired, you can purchase a straight, angular, curly bowl. You can choose the right option for any style of interior. Therefore, wishing to carry out repairs and replace the bath, the owners of houses and apartments most often opt for acrylic plumbing.

It is also worth noting that bathtubs of different sizes are on sale. They can be quite small. In this category, acrylic bathtubs with a frame of 150x70 cm are most often purchased. However, other sizes are also in demand. The choice depends on the size of the bath.

Acrylic has a high ability to retain heat. The water in such a bowl will not cool quickly. At the same time, the inner surface is easy to clean and does not turn yellow during use. This is true for high quality acrylic products. Baths in this case serve for several decades.

During the installation process, it is important to correctly fix the bath in the place intended for it. If this work is done incorrectly, the bowl will deform. This is a flaw in the material presented. However, it can be easily fixed by performing the correct installation.

Sustainability

Installation of an acrylic bathtub does not have to be trusted by professionals. This work, if desired, can be done independently. To do this, you need to take into account that the stability of this product in different planes is not the same. Thus, in the vertical direction, the legged structure is stable. Manufacturers create supports that can support the weight of a bowl of water. It is easy to feel if you stand inside the bathtub.

However, in the horizontal plane, the material cannot boast of stability. Bowls made of acrylic and steel go out of balance in this direction quickly. If, during installation, the ability to move in a horizontal direction is left for the bath, the sewer connection may be damaged.

It is also worth noting that an acrylic bath 170 cm long in a bathroom with dimensions, for example, 180 × 200 cm, can only adjoin one side of the wall. In this case, its side parts remain unlocked. The tightness of the joint between the wall and the bathroom will surely be broken over time, if you do not provide for other fastening options.

For a bowl made of acrylic, it is important to choose one of the correct installation options. This will allow you to securely fix the bowl in a horizontal plane, avoiding trouble in the future.

Wall mount

If you need to fasten an acrylic bathtub 170, 180, 150 cm wide or of another size, you can position it in one of four positions. The following options are possible:

It is believed that the most durable installation option is to install the bath in a niche. This can be done in typical Khrushchev buildings. In such apartments, the bathroom is very small. Therefore, by purchasing an acrylic bathtub 150x70 with or without a frame, you can ensure a reliable fixation of plumbing between three walls. If the room is spacious, such an installation will be more difficult. You will need to build another partition to create a niche of the required size.

However, there are many ways that you can firmly fix the bath. It may not be in contact with the walls at all. True, it is much more convenient when the plumbing is not located in the center of the room. This option is only suitable for owners of very spacious premises.

To perform a correct installation, you need to use special clips. The fixing material must firmly hold the bathtub in the wall. Its main element should be bent upwards. This will allow it to move closer to the wall below. The bath rim is put on the fasteners. So he can snuggle against the wall from below.

In order for the clamps to perform the functions assigned to them, it is necessary to carry out accurate marking, as well as control the position of all components during the installation process.

Factory fasteners

How is an acrylic bathtub attached to the wall? There are several options for this fixation. A reinforced steel frame may be included in the delivery. This is a prefabricated structure, which is made of a steel profile (square section). This frame is attached to the bottom of the tub. The design takes on the weight of the bath, water and a person, evenly distributing the load on the support posts, horizontal structural elements.

Do-it-yourself installation of an acrylic bathtub on a frame is simple. The design allows the bowl to be rigidly fixed. It can be installed even in the center of the room. She will not loosen. However, such a frame is not always included in the delivery set. Sometimes, in order to save money, the manufacturer replaces it with two cross bars. They have short legs. In this case, the installation of an acrylic bathtub on a frame with your own hands should be done next to the wall.

It is worth noting that simply supporting the bowl against a vertical surface will not be enough. Over time, it will begin to move away from the wall. A gap will appear between it and the bathroom. To prevent this from happening, the fixation of the acrylic bath is carried out using special brackets. These can be purchased from a specialist store.

Before fixing the bath with brackets, it is recommended to glue the side with double-sided tape or sanitary sealant. After that, the product is attached to the wall using brackets. This option is also suitable if the owners want to decorate the outer side of the plumbing with tiles.

Niche insert

Considering the existing methods of attaching the bath to the wall, it should be noted such an option as an insert into a niche. It is suitable for a room in which there is not even a rough finish yet. To perform such an installation, a groove is cut into the wall. It needs to be created at the correct height.

For this, the structure is assembled, installed on the legs. Then she is placed against the wall. The height of the bath is determined. A line is made according to the level of its side. Moreover, it must be taken into account that tiles can still be laid on the floor, because of which the height of the base will rise. The edge of the bath rim will have to go into the strobe and rest on its edge inside the wall. The depth of the cutout must be at least 5 cm.

When the bathtub is installed in the place intended for it, the tiles are installed on the wall. The joint is coated with sealant.

Metal corners

If the decoration in the room has already been completed, metal corners can be used. First, the height of the bath is determined. Holes are created at the required level using a punch. Dowels are inserted into them. Next, corners are applied to the wall (if necessary, holes are also made in them). The retainer rod is screwed into the prepared seat.

A bath rim is put on this corner. He will lean on her. Next, you just need to coat the joints with a sealant.

Step-by-step instructions for fixing to brackets

Fastening the side of an acrylic bathtub to the wall is most often done using brackets, corners or brackets. Installation in this case takes place according to the same technique. It is worth considering in more detail.

First you need to do the correct markup. A line is drawn on the wall, which corresponds to the location of the edge of the bath rim. To do this, the structure is assembled using a factory frame or transverse strips with legs. The adjusting screws of the latter must be set to the middle position.

To mount the acrylic bathtub to the wall, the bowl is placed against a vertical surface. On the side, markings are made on the wall. It is important to find out the features of the horizontal adjustment of the legs. Subsequently, it will be necessary to adjust the height to the height of the fasteners. The markup is checked using a level. It should be flat. Otherwise, the bathtub will be skewed.

Completion of installation

Next, the selected type of bath fixture is installed. The clips cut into the wall. For this, a perforator or a powerful electric drill is used in the work. After that, the assembled bath and frame structure is installed on the brackets. The collar must engage with the catches.

After that, using the adjusting screws on the legs, the height of the bath is adjusted. Its position is checked using a building level. Only after the bowl is in the correct position can the siphon be connected. Also water supply lines are supplied. After that, the finishing can be done in the room (if it was not created earlier). The joint between the bathroom and the wall is treated with a sealant.

It should be noted that similar recommendations are applicable for conventional acrylic bathtubs. If the design provides for hydromassage, it is better to entrust the installation to professionals. In this case, the operation of the system requires correct connection not only to water supply lines, but also to electronics. Therefore, it will be difficult to perform such an installation with your own hands. Experts will be able not only to correctly connect all elements of the system, but also to firmly fix the bath near the wall.

Brick frame

In addition to attaching the acrylic bathtub to the wall with brackets, corners, you can resort to a more radical method. It allows you to firmly fix the structure, eliminating the possibility of its loosening. This method involves the construction of a brick frame.

In this case, a wall of the required height is erected from blocks and cement mortar. In this case, it must be borne in mind that there must be a distance between the bottom of the bath and the floor. should not be monolithic. It must have an opening to provide access to the siphon.

With the help of bricks and cement mortar, a niche is built in the bathroom. A bathtub will be installed in it. You can start construction work only after purchasing a bath. The niche is created specifically for the specific dimensions of the plumbing. This method involves cutting bolts into the wall, on which the bathtub will rest on the opposite side.

It is recommended to place a layer of polyurethane foam between the bottom of the bathtub and the base of the room. In this case, it will be almost impossible to damage the back of the bowl. Also, a special mounting film is laid down. When installing the bath in the prepared space, you need to draw water into it. So it will sit better in a niche.

The bath is installed in the created niche only after the solution and polyurethane foam are completely dry. All seams are then treated with sanitary silicone.

Some beginner mistakes

Inexperienced craftsmen can mount an acrylic bathtub to the wall. To install the bowl correctly, there are a few simple tips to follow. Some beginners make mistakes while fixing plumbing to the wall. As a result, the bath staggers, the joint, sealed with a sealant, begins to let water through. Failure to take action could damage the drain system or bath body.

To avoid problems later, you should not think that by moving the bath close to the wall and covering the joint with a sealant or a special solution, you can achieve good fixation. To achieve this, you need to use brackets, brackets, or other appropriate fasteners. You can also cut into the wall, creating a strobe. However, ordinary mortar or sealant will not be able to firmly fix the bath against the wall.

It is also worth noting that many craftsmen cover the joints with gypsum-based solutions. Of course, such compositions are distinguished by whiteness. But gypsum mixes are absolutely not suitable for wet rooms. Therefore, when creating the finish, you need to use special white or transparent sealants. They should include antiseptic components. Thanks to the use of sanitary sealant, mold and mildew will not form at the joints.

Having considered how to mount an acrylic bathtub to the wall, you can do it yourself correctly. In this case, plumbing will last a long time, will not loosen and collapse.