Grafting and regrafting of fruit trees One of the important methods of agricultural technology in horticulture is the grafting and re-grafting of fruit trees.
Grafting is one of the most common and fastest methods of vegetative (asexual) reproduction of fruit plants, the varietal characteristics of which are not preserved in most cases when propagated by seeds.
Grafting in horticulture is the transfer of part of one cutting or bud plant (graft) to another plant (stock) for their mutual fusion.
Therefore, a grafted fruit tree consists of two parts: a scion of a cultivated variety and a rootstock grown from a seed or a rooted layer. The scion belongs to the above-ground part, and the rootstock belongs to the underground (the base of the stump and the root system). When growing together, the stock and scion form a single organism and mutually influence each other.
When regrafting into the crown of mature trees, the under-howl includes not only the root system, but also the entire part of the tree below the grafting site.
Grafting allows you to propagate any variety without changing its qualities. The natural method of propagation of plants by sowing seeds does not always fully convey the beneficial characteristics of the mother plant. It is used to obtain wild animals (rootstocks), i.e., material for grafting, as well as in breeding for breeding new varieties.
Seedlings grafted with the cultivar produce high yields of good fruit. Therefore, grafting is called ennoblement or cultivation of a fruit tree.
In the old garden there are trees that need to be grafted with the best varieties or missing pollinator varieties. If there are uncultivated seedlings in the garden, then by grafting they can be turned into cultivated trees of good varieties.
In such gardens, trees with crooked trunks, one-sided or ugly crowns can be found. The only way to fix them is by vaccination. By grafting into the crown, the qualities of new varieties are tested and the merits of seedlings with cultural characteristics are determined when they are not able to grow them on their own. By grafting overgrown wildlings, we can get stable, durable and productive trees that bear fruit earlier.
By grafting on weakly growing rootstocks, we can speed up the fruiting of the tree and create dwarf trees.
Grafting can change the natural appearance of a tree, increasing the strength of the crown of this variety.
By grafting a part of the root, it is possible to obtain layering and root cuttings of those breeds and varieties that, by their nature, are very weakly or even not rooted at all.
Grafting allows you to correct mechanical damage to trees caused by rodents and sunburn.
Grafting is based on the tree's ability to heal its wounds through the increased activity of the exposed cambium from the nutrients found in both the rootstock and scion. The cambial tissue in a naked or wounded place begins to give an influx (callus) from both the scion and the rootstock. These oncoming influxes fuse together, after which common sap-carrying tissues are formed.
Before fusion, the graft lives off the supply of nutrients in its cells and part of them spends on the formation of an influx. It receives moisture from the rootstock. That is why, for successful grafting, it is necessary to use tight strapping and cover the grafting site (with cuttings) with garden putty.
Fruit trees with a healthy trunk and intact branches can be re-grafted no older than 25 years of age.
Trees over the age of 10 are re-grafted not immediately, but within two years: in the first year, half of the branches, and in the second, the rest. Up to 10 years of age, a tree can be re-grafted in one year.
Rootstocks for fruit trees In grafting, the rootstock is essential. Through the root system of the stock, nutrition and water flow from the soil to the tree are provided, and the scion supplies the stock with assimilation products produced by the leaves of the tree. This leads to the mutual influence of the rootstock and scion.
The stability of the tree, its durability, general development, attitude to the soil and even productivity largely depend on the stock. Therefore, rootstocks must be frost-resistant, resistant to excessive and insufficient moisture, well adapted to the natural climatic conditions of the area and firmly grow together with the varieties grafted onto them (compatibility).
In horticultural practice, there are many examples where some fruit varieties have poor fusion (incompatibility) with certain rootstocks and break off from them even during the fruiting period. To eliminate this drawback, trees are pre-grafted with those varieties that grow well on these rootstocks, and another variety is grafted to them above the first grafting.
To obtain rootstocks, local seed material is used. Rootstocks should be well propagated by seeds or vegetatively, have a strong root system, grow well with the varieties grafted to them, and ensure the successful development of plants.
According to the strength of the growth of the varieties grafted on them, rootstocks are divided into vigorous and low-growing (semi-dwarf, dwarf), according to the method of reproduction into seed and vegetative, and by origin into wild and cultivated forms.
Not only individual species of fruit trees, but sometimes even their varieties require certain rootstocks. For apple trees, the best rootstocks from cultivated varieties are seedlings of Antonovka, Anis and local resistant varieties.
To obtain rootstocks, you can use wild forest apple trees and seedlings of some local semi-cultivated apple trees. Grafted varieties are well accepted on them, and as a result, fruitful, durable trees are obtained.
A good rootstock for an apple tree is a Chinese tree, or a plum-leaved apple tree (selected forms with a non-falling calyx on the fruit).
Chinese has a high frost resistance. Seedlings do not need picking and develop a rich root system.
When growing dwarf fruit trees for rootstocks, they take a low-growing paradise apple tree, which is propagated by layering. The trees grafted onto them are characterized by short stature, bear fruit early and give abundant harvests of fruits that have high taste and good appearance. Semi-dwarf trees can be obtained by using stronger growth ducenas.
For pears, the best rootstocks are forest and Ussuri pear seedlings. Trees on these rootstocks are winter-hardy and long-lived.
For mountain ash, seedlings of ordinary mountain ash serve as rootstocks.
Seedlings of Vladimirskaya, Korostynskaya and other local varieties and forms or root suckers from them are considered good rootstocks for cherries in the North-West zone.
Trees grafted onto seedlings of this cherry reach full development. The rootstocks for sweet cherries in the North-West zone, as well as for cherries, are seedlings of Vladimirskaya and local varieties and forms of cherries.
For plums, seedlings of local resistant varieties of plums and its root suckers are good rootstocks.
In the south of the North-West zone, cherry plum can be used as a rootstock for plums. The rootstock for dwarf plums is the turn, which has the greatest winter hardiness.
Procurement and storage of cuttings The development of a fruit tree depends on the condition of the rootstock and scion. Therefore, the appropriate requirements are imposed on the scion, as well as on the stock. The stalk (graft), taken for grafting from a healthy tree not damaged by diseases and pests, must be strong, well matured.
Mature shoots should be taken from the outer parts of the crown of mature trees, well lit by the sun. Such shoots are characterized by short internodes (gaps between buds) and strongly developed eyes in the leaf axils.
They have a high ability to assimilate and absorb organic substances, which the stalk needs for its fastest growing together with the rootstock and the formation of new shoots.
Cuttings for grafting are cut from fruit-bearing trees tested for yield and grade.
Timely harvesting of cuttings for grafting is of great importance. Cuttings should be taken only from uterine pure-grade plantations and from trees that are characterized by high yield and stability. Cuttings should be 30-40 cm long, with well-developed growth buds. Thin, poorly formed shoots with underdeveloped buds are not suitable for grafting. In this case, it is better to use cuttings from the growth of the previous year, which has growth buds.
For winter and spring grafting, cuttings are harvested in the fall, after leaf fall, but before the onset of great frosts. After frosty winters, they can be harvested in the spring, before the buds swell.
Harvested cuttings are stored in the garden tied in small bundles, which are folded in a row at small intervals and sprinkled with earth. Temporarily (until spring), the cuttings can be stored in the snow, and when the earth thaws, they can be buried in it. At the place where the cuttings were dug, it is desirable to keep the snow as long as possible. This can be achieved by digging cuttings on the north side of any building, where the snow lies longer and water does not stagnate. It is only necessary to protect the cuttings from damage by mice.
In nurseries, prepared cuttings for winter grafting are bundled (100 pieces each), labels with variety names are tied to them and placed in boxes. In boxes, the cuttings are poured with wet sawdust and stored in the fresh air, covered with a layer of snow of 50-70 cm.
Cuttings that will be used for indoor grafting in winter can be stored in cellars at low temperatures (from 0 to -3 °). The cuttings are placed in boxes with wet sand or sawdust and covered with a metal mesh from mice on top.
When harvesting cherry cuttings, it must be borne in mind that flower buds are abundant on its annual shoots. Both for budding and for grafting with cuttings, you need to take longer shoots from young trees, on which there are fewer flower buds.
Tools and materials needed for grafting The tools used for grafting are not numerous: budding and copulation knives, a curved garden knife, garden shears (pruner), saw blade and hatchet.
Strapping material is used to fasten the grafted parts with the stock. The simplest and most affordable is linden bast. Before use, the bast should be cut into ribbons of a certain length, convenient for use (about 40 cm), and tied into bundles.
When tying, the bast should be somewhat damp, which makes it more elastic. As a strapping material, sometimes thin linen or paper packing twine rubbed with garden putty is used, as well as insulating tape used in electrical engineering, or adhesive tape, which makes it possible to do without putty.
Currently, synthetic PVC and polyethylene films are widely used for strapping. They are easy to use, tightly fit the stalk and create an impermeable layer for air and moisture, which ensures good fusion of the stalk with the rootstock. For strapping, the film is cut into strips 1 cm wide and 30-35 cm long.
When using a film, the grafting sites are not covered with garden putty. After tying with a bast or twine (thread), all grafted cuttings, with the exception of budding, are covered with garden putty (garden var). It protects the grafted cuttings from waterlogging and at the same time from drying out, creates favorable conditions for the fusion of cuttings with rootstocks.
The composition of garden putty usually includes dry tree resin or rosin. According to their physical properties and nature of application, garden putties are divided into: cold-liquid, used in a cold state; heat-liquid, requiring heating before use; hard, kneaded before use. Here are some recipes for garden putty.
For heat-liquid: a) 4 parts by weight of wood resin or rosin, 1 part by weight of natural drying oil; b) 1 part dry tree resin or rosin, 1 part wax or paraffin, 1 part vegetable oil or unsalted fat.
For cold liquid: a) 400 g of wood resin, 50 g of alcohol (can be denatured), 1-2 tablespoons of vegetable oil; b) 400 g of rosin or wood resin, 200 g of wax or paraffin, 100 g of unsalted fat, 50 g of alcohol (can be denatured).
For hard: 2 parts wax or paraffin, 1 part hard wood resin or rosin, 1 part unsalted animal fat.
When preparing garden putties, the following rules must be observed: rosin or dry wood resin is heated first (as it is more refractory), and then wax or paraffin is placed (it is better to grind these substances). When the rosin and wax form a homogeneous mass with stirring, fat or oil is added and, after stirring well, is removed from the fire; if alcohol is included in the putty, then the mass removed from the fire is slightly cooled and, stirring constantly, pour it in in small portions; heated rosin or dry resin is mixed with hot drying oil. Instead of solid garden putty, plasticine or combined putty for windows (non-drying) can be used.
Heat-liquid and cold-liquid putties are evenly applied to the bandage and wounds with a brush or spatula, and hard garden var with hands. A well-prepared hard garden pitch does not stick to the fingers, does not melt in the sun, and is held firmly in place at the grafting site. Sometimes they use strips of strong paper, smeared with a special garden pitch (400 g of rosin, 100 g of wax and 800 g of unsalted melted fat), which simultaneously replace putty and strapping.
When used, the thermoliquid putty is heated with a lamp or hot water. Heat-liquid and cold-liquid putties are used in the early spring, when working with solid putty is difficult due to low temperatures.
Vaccination methods There are different types of vaccinations. They can be divided into two main groups: grafting with an eye (bud) and grafting with a cutting (shoot). Depending on the purpose of grafting, different parts of the plant - root, stump, trunk, crown - can serve as a place for grafting on a rootstock. According to the location of the scion on the rootstock, all vaccinations can be divided into top and side.
Riding vaccinations are made with cutting off the top of the game. This includes grafting into a split, behind the bark, copulation.
Side grafting is done on the side of the scion trunk without cutting off the top or with cutting it off, but leaving a spike. Lateral vaccinations are budding, grafting in a lateral incision, and grafting by approach. All methods of vaccination according to the time of their implementation can be divided into spring, summer and winter.
Spring vaccinations are performed in April-May. Scion shoots develop over the coming summer. When grafted in the second half of summer, the scion grows well with the rootstock, but the shoots develop during the next summer.
In addition to budding with a dormant bud, this includes grafting with a dormant cutting and a cutting taken directly from a tree. Winter vaccinations include those that are performed in winter (indoors) during the dormant period. The roots of wild animals or parts of the roots dug out in autumn serve as a stock, and in the grafted state they remain until spring planting in the cellar.
In winter, grafting can be done by all means, with the exception of bark grafting. According to the technique of execution, all methods of grafting can be divided into budding (grafting with an eye), grafting with a cutting for the bark, copulation, grafting into a side cut, grafting into a split (into a split) and grafting by approach (ablactation).
Budding (eye grafting) is one of the main methods of grafting wild birds in the nursery. Almost all species of fruit trees are grafted with an eye (kidney).
This method of grafting has many advantages: it is faster, the wild is less damaged than with other types of grafting, the graft material is economically consumed (4-5 eyes are cut from one cutting, with which 4-5 rootstocks can be budded), in case of failure, the stock is saved for subsequent vaccinations. In addition to the main purpose of grafting young wild animals in a nursery, budding can be used to cultivate overgrown wild wild animals with strong stems and ready-made crowns available in a nursery or garden.
This is a valuable material for obtaining winter-hardy and durable fruit trees. Only such trees are suitable for budding, in which the branches that form their crowns are not thicker than 1 cm (grafting with a cutting is used for the thickest ones). The preparation of such rootstocks for budding must begin in the spring. All branches are removed from the lower part of the trunk, turning it into a bole, and 5-7 main branches growing in different directions are left in the crown.
The lower branches are grafted at a greater distance from the base than the upper ones. In the spring of next year, the branches are cut into a thorn, to which cultural shoots are tied. Those branches on which budding was unsuccessful should be grafted with a cutting or cut in the spring. The conditions determining the success of budding are sufficient maturation of one-year-old shoots that serve as material for grafting, and good separation of the bark from the wood on the rootstocks. They start budding when the young shoot has not yet completed its growth, but its wood in the middle part has already grown stronger. Strong shoots with well-ripened and fully formed buds (eyes) 25-30 cm long go to the cuttings. The cutting taken from the tree must be mature by the time of grafting. For testing, the stalk is brought to the ear and bent with the fingers. A mature cutting crackles with such bending, which is explained by the breakage of lignified wood cells. For budding, the best eyes are taken, located in the middle part of the shoot.
Cuttings for budding are prepared in the morning. Immediately, the unripened grassy top and leaf blades are removed from them, leaving petioles 10-15 mm long, after which they are stored in a cool or shady place, covered with wet moss, damp grass, burlap or matting.
It is desirable that the cuttings are harvested in such an amount that can be spent within 1-2 days. During budding, the cuttings are placed with butts in a bucket filled with water.
(Fig. 13)

Preparation of the cutting for budding: 1 - young shoot (dashes show the places where the cutting was cut); 2 - cutting prepared for budding.

It is impossible to establish the exact timing of budding, since the maturation of the game and cuttings depends on local climatic conditions. Approximate time of budding in the northwestern regions is at the end of July and the first half of August.
Usually budding lasts 2-3 weeks. In the North-West zone, it is impossible to be late with budding. Better to do it sooner rather than later.
(Fig. 14)

Details of cutting and insertion of the shield during budding: 1 - line of movement of the knife; 2 - cut line of the shield; 3 - shield cutting; 4 - T-shaped section and shield insert.

In case of unsuccessful budding, it can be repeated if the bark on the rootstock is still separated.
It is impossible to bud in the rain, but on hot days it is better to bud in the morning and evening. Oculation technique. With this method of grafting, a bud (eye) is separated from the surrounding bark and part of the wood (shield) from an annual shoot and transferred to a stock.
Budding can be done using the bark method. The most common is budding for bark with wood.
To cut the shield, the stalk is taken in the left hand with the butt to itself, the knife is brought 1.5-2 cm above the kidney, placed across the stalk and slightly cut into the wood.
(Fig. 15)

After that, the knife is brought 0.5 cm above the transverse incision and with a smooth movement, gradually deepening the knife, bring it to the kidney, and then gradually bring the knife to the surface at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the eye and cut off the shield from above. Sometimes the shields are removed in the opposite direction from the butt to the top. The total length of the shield is sufficient 2.5-3 cm.
The removed shield with the left hand is taken by the petiole. After that, on the bark of the wild at the bottom, at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground, transverse and then longitudinal cuts are made in the form of the letter "T". With a knife bone, the bark is slightly separated from the wood and the shield with the kidney is pushed in from above until it reaches the end of the cut.
Thus, the shield goes behind the bark and adheres to the wood along the entire length. When the entire shield fits behind the bark, it is slightly squeezed from the sides and served up by the petiole. You can first make an incision on the rootstock bark, and then remove the shield, which immediately, without drying out, falls into place.
After the introduction of the eye under the bark of the wildling, the place of budding is tightly tied with a washcloth or plastic wrap, and the kidney should remain free from the tie. The strapping should be applied from top to bottom, closing the transverse incision with it. The end of the strapping coincides with the lower part of the longitudinal incision on the bark or slightly lower and is pulled through once or twice under the last turn of the strapping.
For greater survival, budding should be carried out with two eyes on different sides of the game. Both eyes are tied at the same time. When budding, putty is not applied. With the strapping of the grafted eye, budding is considered complete.
For stone fruits (cherries), grafting of the shield without wood is used, which increases the area of ​​fusion and improves the survival of the shield. Budding without wood is successfully performed only during the period of full sap flow, when the insertion of the shields behind the bark is not difficult and the shields are easily removed from the cuttings. Grafting cuttings for the bark. Grafting over the bark, or grafting between bark and wood, is the most common cutting grafting and is used where there are overgrown wildlings after unsuccessful budding. Overgrown wild animals, to which budding is not applicable, are re-grafted by the bark. Bark grafting is also widely used for re-grafting.
Only such trees or individual branches can be grafted with a cutting by the bark, the thickness of which significantly exceeds the thickness of the cutting. Grafting with a cutting for the bark is started with the beginning of sap flow and continues until the beginning of an intensive movement of juice.
Cuttings for grafting are prepared in advance. They must be in good health and at rest or in a state of awakening. Grafted cuttings may have from one to several buds.
Bark grafting by cuttings includes bridge grafting, used to save trees damaged by frost, sunburn and rodents, as well as grafting with germinating seed. The latter is used when breeding new varieties so that the rootstock can influence the young organism of the seedling (scion) developing from the seed, in order to acquire the beneficial properties inherent in the mentor stock. The rootstock must have stable useful features.
Grafting technique. With an ordinary graft for the bark, the stock is cut into a stump with a saw or pruner. The cut is cleaned with a garden knife. On the hemp from the cut down to a length of about 2.5 cm, the bark is cut to the wood, then the cut bark is slightly turned away from the top on both sides with the end of the knife.
After that, a stalk is taken and an oblique cut up to 3 cm long is made at its lower end. The stalk prepared for grafting should have 2-3 well-developed buds, the rest of it is cut off (above the bud). The resulting cutting is inserted behind the bark.
An improved method of this grafting is that, after a vertical incision, the bark of the rootstock is slightly separated from above only on one side. On the handle, as with ordinary grafting, an oblique cut is made, at the lower end of which the bark is removed to the wood for better contact with the rootstock. Then, on the handle, on one of the edges of the cut, a narrow strip of bark is removed for its entire length from the side that will be adjacent to the inseparable part of the rootstock bark. This method provides a better fusion of the rootstock and cuttings.
After the stalk is inserted behind the bark, the grafting site is tied up and, together with the rootstock stump and the upper cut on the stalk, is covered with garden putty or plasticine. If the stump is thick, then it is not covered with a circle, but only from the side of the graft and from above. When a saddle-shaped cut is made on the handle, with which the handle, when inserted by the bark, firmly sits on the stock stump, then the grafting is called behind the bark with a saddle.
In one stump, depending on its thickness, 2-3 cuttings and more can be grafted onto the bark, using one harness common to all cuttings. Grafting with a cutting for the bark can be performed without a longitudinal section of the bark. After cutting the stock to a stump and cleaning the cut with a knife, the cuttings with the processed lower part are inserted behind the bark to the saddle, and if it is not there, then so that the upper part of the oblique cut is 0.5-1 cm higher than the stump.
(Fig. 16)

In addition to grafting with a complete cut of the top of the stock, there is a lateral grafting on the bark with a thorn left, in which, at some distance from the ground, the wood is cut into the rootstock in the form of a saddle or a figurative incision is made on its bark, as in budding.
(Fig. 17)

For the separated part of the bark, a cutting with a saddle or with a regular oblique cut is inserted. This grafting can be done with a cutting with one kidney or with many.
Sometimes a shield carrying a shoot is inserted into a figurative incision in the bark.
Overgrown wilds with their own crowns are grafted into the bases of skeletal branches or at some distance from them.
(Fig. 18, 19)

If the grafted trees have already reached fruiting, then the grafting should be done not in one year, but in two or three, so as not to drastically violate the relationship between the crown of the tree and the root system. Grafting is usually started from the top and ends with the lower branches.
Branches at the grafting site should not be thicker than 3-4 cm. With this thickness, two cuttings should be inserted. Intermediate thinner branches are left ungrafted.
In case of circular damage to the bark by rodents or frosts, auxiliary grafting with a bridge is used to save adult trees.
Before grafting, the damaged area must be protected from drying out, for which purpose it should be covered with garden putty, thick paint on natural drying oil, or wrapped with plastic wrap and tied.
(Fig. 20)

Scheme of regrafting the crown of a fruit-bearing tree with cuttings for the bark, leaving ungrafted branches.

Then, before the start of sap flow from the tree, you need to cut 2-3 tall annual shoots and bury them in the ground to keep them dormant.
Shoots should be significantly longer than the height of the damaged area. In the absence of such cuttings, cuttings with the growth of the previous year can be taken, as long as they are not branched.
(Fig. 21)

With the beginning of sap flow above and below the wound, longitudinal cuts up to 4 cm are made on the healthy bark and the bark is separated from the wood with the help of a budding knife bone. After that, they take the prepared shoots, remove the buds on them, and make oblique cuts at both ends in the same way as when grafting on the bark. The length of the cutting should be somewhat greater than the distance between the ends of the longitudinal cuts on the trunk of the tree.
It is desirable that the stalk inserted into the cuts behind the bark be slightly curved outward. After the cuttings are inserted, the grafting site is tightly tied and covered with putty. When grafting with a bridge, instead of tying, nails are sometimes used to fasten the cuttings to the wood of the affected tree.
To save trees damaged by rodents, roots from the same tree or trees of the same species can be used instead of shoots. The roots should be as even as possible, about 1 cm thick. They fuse perfectly with the wood. You can also use top growth or growth from a stump for this purpose.
Copulation is applicable to thin rootstocks on which other grafts are difficult to perform. This makes it possible to quickly use wild animals and get cultivated trees from them much earlier, which is especially important when propagating new varieties.
Copulation differs sharply from bark grafting not only in terms of its technical methods, but also in terms of execution time. If previous graftings can only be performed with a good separation of the bark from the wood, then copulation is carried out when the rootstocks are in a state of complete rest. This method is usually used when grafting game birds in early spring before bud break or indoors in winter.
Copulation can be done before bark grafting. It is convenient to apply it to overgrown wild game, grafting thin branches and thus creating a new cultural crown with a strong fusion. In the garden, copulation begins in early spring, as soon as the temperature conditions allow for outdoor work.
Therefore, you should not be late with this vaccination. This is especially important for cherries and sweet cherries, grafting which before the start of sap flow gives the best results. This grafting is valuable for cherries and sweet cherries when grafting them into the finished crown to thin branches before the start of sap flow. It works just as well on thin game, if it is done about two weeks before the swelling of the kidneys.
For thicker branches, copulation into the butt on the side of the stock and into a simple butt with a saddle is well applicable. Using copulation, you can collect many varieties on one tree, grafting them onto the ends of thin branches and shoots without disturbing the appearance of the crown. Cuttings grafted in advance, before the start of sap flow, are well accepted and can bear fruit the next year. (Fig. 22)

Copulation is of great importance in winter grafting, in which not only specially sown wilds can be used, but also parts of the roots from uprooted trees, as well as cuttings and roots of old wilds.
Indoor winter grafting is the only one in which rootstocks are dug out of the ground in autumn to be grafted in in winter and planted again in spring. In winter, when there is free time, you can plant a large number of plants. This is the main advantage of winter vaccination.
This method turned out to be of little use for cherries, but successful for plums. One-year-old plums take root well, which is associated with active uropoiesis on the roots of stocks characteristic of plums.
(Fig. 23)

Copulation technique. With simple copulation on a rootstock and a cutting (scion), having the same thickness, oblique cuts of the same length (up to 3 cm) are made. Then the stalk and stock are applied to each other in slices.
After that, a strapping is applied and the vaccination site is coated with putty.
Grafting cuttings are taken with 2-3 buds. Another method of this grafting is called improved tongue copulation.
Its advantage lies in the strong connection of the stock with the scion, which is achieved by pinching the tongues on both with the same oblique cuts as with ordinary copulation.
(Fig. 24)

On an oblique cut of the cutting, stepping back 1/3 from the edge of the sharp end, a split is made with a knife a little further than the middle of the oblique cut and exactly the same split, subject to the same order, on the rootstock. After that, the cutting is connected to the rootstock so that the tongue of one of them goes into the split of the other.
When copulating thicker wilds, contact between the rootstock and the cutting is achieved by grafting into the butt from the side. On the side of the wild, a cut of one kind is made (in a simple butt, with a saddle, with tongues or with a ledge). The cutting is also prepared.
(Fig. 25)

When copulating thin rootstocks, almost the same thickness as the cuttings, the cambial layers always coincide. With the same grafting of thicker rootstocks, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the bark on the game, so that there is no gap in the cambial layers.
In addition to copulation with a cut of the top of the stock (on a stump), there are types of this grafting with a spike left, copulation into a simple butt and copulation into a butt with a small notch at the bottom.
In winter, grafting can be performed by all of the named methods of copulation, in accordance with the thickness of the rootstock (root), but it is more expedient to use two of them: for thin rootstocks, improved (with tongues), and for thick rootstocks, on the side with tongues.
Stocks harvested from autumn are cut off along the root neck and the roots are stored in a suitable frost-free room in wet sand.
(Fig. 26)

Long side roots are shortened. For grafting, a sufficient length of the root will be 10-12 cm, so the lower part of the root is removed. If the root of the core structure with good fouling with lateral roots, then the lower part of the root can be used for grafting.
In this case, the length of the roots can be reduced to 7 cm. The upper part of the root is cleaned of small roots so that it is smooth and convenient for grafting. Before grafting, the roots are freed from the ground and washed so that the knives do not become dull and the cuts are not contaminated. For the convenience of work, thin roots suitable for grafting with an oblique cut must be separated from thicker ones. Graft cuttings with 3-4 buds.
After inserting the cutting, the grafting sites are tied and washed with garden putty. When tying with a film, the coating is not used.
After grafting, the plants are placed in boxes or roots in rows in an inclined position and covered with wet sand, peat or sawdust so that only the upper parts of the cuttings remain uncovered.
(Fig. 27)

The first three weeks, boxes with grafted plants are kept in a room with a temperature of 10-12 °. During this time, the cutting grows together with the rootstock. Subsequently, the temperature is lowered to 0 +3 and the plants are kept in this position until the start of planting in the nursery.
To prevent mold from appearing on grafted plants, charcoal dust is mixed with sawdust, and the room is pre-fumigated with sulfur.
A good way to store grafted plants in winter, in which their germination is excluded, is storage in the snow. To do this, boxes or baskets with planting material, after the fusion of cuttings with rootstocks, are taken out of the room and covered with snow. Snow is covered with manure or straw so that it does not melt.
Winter vaccination begins in February and continues until March-April.
Grafting in the side cut. This method consists in grafting the cutting on the side of the rootstock into a notch or a pinch. At the same time, the top of the stock can remain intact or be cut into a spike. Grafting into the side cut is used on rootstocks of any thickness. When grafting, a greater strength of fusion of the scion with the stock is achieved.
They are grafted into the cut: in the winter at the root (indoors), in the spring with a cutting, in the summer with a cutting taken directly from a tree, as well as a root to a growing branch or trunk to obtain layering and jigging during spring and summer.
Lateral grafting can be performed with a cutting with one bud instead of budding, grafting over the bark, copulation, grafting into a split (split) and is indispensable when grafting fruit-bearing branches to a wild game and when changing an obsolete old crown to a new one. Despite this, side cut grafting is not widely used in production. It is of interest to amateur gardening (grafting with large branches, hanging cuttings to obtain shaped trees and propagation by layering).
Grafting into the side cut with a small cutting with an oblique and short wedge is applicable for rootstocks of various thicknesses (before the start of sap flow). It gives a strong growth. It is also used for regrafting in fruit-bearing orchards.
Another type of grafting, characterized by a large notch (pinch), can be widely used in practice. For example, summer grafting with a cutting taken directly from a tree. Grafting with a "green cutting" can replace budding.
By grafting branches with emerging flower buds, next year we can get the fruits of the variety that we grafted. This makes it possible to quickly get acquainted with a new variety, choose a good pollinator, and replenish the collection of varieties.
A fruiting branch, grafted onto a thin and flexible rootstock, can be easily turned into a slate (creeping) form.
Grafting a branch to the base of a growing tree makes it possible to change the top of a fruit tree affected by diseases, mechanically damaged or destroyed by old age. Using the strong root system of the old tree, you can soon get a new one that starts bearing fruit early.
In this grafting, branches taken from particularly hardy and productive trees growing in the garden and with good fruit quality should be used.
Grafting with a hanging cutting is done in order to obtain low-growing trees on ordinary rootstocks. Trees grafted with hanging cuttings grow well in the first summer. Normal fruiting, depending on the variety, occurs in the 3-4th year. With this grafting, a broadly branched crown shape is obtained, more prostrate in width. The bases of the branches of the crown extend straight down from the trunk, and therefore they are insured against breaking off under the weight of the crop. Such a crown in this respect has an advantage over other forms.
By grafting the wild game with a hanging handle at a short distance from the ground, we can get crowns that are spread directly above the ground. This makes it possible to use them as "creeping" crowns, which have a positive value in northern gardening. Grafting with a hanging cutting is also used to obtain wall shaped trees, for which the cuttings are grafted in the same plane. The technique of their formation is simple, which is facilitated by the growth of branches to the side.
This makes it possible to use the walls of buildings for planting them with shaped trees and to have decorative fruit trees.
Fruit trees hardly reproduce by layering, with the exception of dwarf rootstocks. Reproduction by layering can be widely used in home gardening and indoor fruit growing, using parts of the roots of the same plant for grafting. The advantage of this propagation method is that it can be done during the growing season and does not require pre-harvest roots.
In those cases where part of the tree cannot be bent to the ground to obtain layering, you can get "jigging" from it by grafting the root to one of the lower branches or even to the stem.
(Fig. 28)

Cleft grafting At a high height from the ground, you can use a flower pot or a box filled with earth for this.
Grafting in the side cleft is the only grafting that allows you to propagate fruit trees with branches of considerable size.
Grafting technique. Grafting into an oblique lateral incision is carried out by cuttings with two well-developed buds. It can be performed on wilds of various thicknesses and gives good intergrowth with the stock. It has been successfully used in the regrafting of fruit trees.
When grafting into a pinch, a straight deep incision is made and cuttings of various sizes are used.
For this grafting, it is more convenient to use a knife with a long blade, sharpened on one side for better cutting into the wood. On the rootstock, from top to bottom, by moving the knife through the bark into the wood, a pinch up to 3 cm long is made. After that, identical cuts are made on the handle on both sides into a straight wedge.
The end of the cutting should end sharply. The stalk prepared in this way is inserted into the slot (snap) to failure so that the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock are in contact at least on one side, after which the grafting site is tied and covered with putty. The upper transverse section of the cutting is also covered. Instead of bast, threads 1.5-2 mm thick or the same paper twine, rubbed with hard garden putty or plasticine, are used. The strapping is not applied completely, but at intervals of 2-3 mm, which improves the fusion of the components. The end of the harness remains free.
Grafting in a snap gives a very strong fusion. It can be performed as a small cutting with 1-2 buds, as well as large branches. Accordingly, the length of the latch can be different from 2 to 10 cm.
For summer grafting with a cutting taken directly from a tree, a part of last year's shoot is used with a slight increase in the current year. The leaves and top of the growth are cut off. When cuttings are used directly from a tree, in addition to 2-3 buds, on the growth of the last year, the growth of this year, which is still beginning to lignify, is left. The grafting site and the cut of the cutting are covered with putty (plasticine).
During the summer, the cuttings grow well with the rootstock. The upper bud usually germinates and forms a rosette of leaves or a weak growth, but the rest are completely dormant until spring, and then, after trimming the top, they give a strong growth.
Grafting to the base of a growing tree is done in early spring before the buds swell. Branches for this take a length of up to 3 liters.
When starting grafting, it is necessary to clean the trunk of old bark and whitewash from any grafted side. On the grafted tree, remove all branches that will interfere with the grafting or obscure the graft. Leave the top of the tree.
On the lower part of the tree trunk, a pinch is made with a large knife to a depth of 10 cm and a wedge-shaped butt of the branch (scion) is inserted into it to failure, controlling at least a partial coincidence of the cambial layers by slightly retracting the scion away from the trunk and looking into the gap formed.
Having specified the position of the wedge, the branch is attached to the stump with the help of thin carnations, under the caps of which small (1 sq. cm) pieces of birch bark, leather or plywood are strung. The grafting site is covered with hard garden pitch or plasticine. The grafted branch must be tied to the tree.
(Fig. 29)

Summer grafting with cuttings taken directly from the tree.

The survival rate of grafted branches is related to air humidity in early spring, and therefore, by using polyethylene film to cover them, you can get the best results of grafting.
Grafting with a hanging cutting can be started before the juice movement and continue until the buds open.
The top is cut off from the rootstocks.
Grafting is done to obtain low wide crowns of shaped and creeping trees on ordinary rootstocks.
(Fig. 30, 31)

The second stalk is grafted at the same height on the opposite side of the rootstock and, along with the first, is tied and covered with hard putty or plasticine. The upper sections of the cuttings are also covered.
On the same trunk, you can graft a second pair of cuttings slightly lower than the first, or you can graft the cuttings next, imitating the natural arrangement of the branches. It is more convenient to start the vaccination from the top.
To obtain trees in a backyard garden in a shape close to a fan (palmette), the cuttings are planted in pairs on the same line on both sides, keeping a certain distance between them.
When grafting with a hanging cutting to obtain creeping crowns, the stock can be cut to a height of 40 cm. For this, wilds that are not suitable for obtaining standard crowns can be used. Trees grafted with a hanging cutting should be adequately lit. To protect against breakage, grafted cuttings are tied to a trunk.
Root grafting to obtain layering can be done in the spring, when there are good conditions for the root to grow together with the layer. Roots for grafting can be harvested in the fall or freshly dug. Pre-harvested roots must be protected from frost. Roots for grafting are better to take more fibrous, up to 1 cm thick.
To obtain layering of branches low from the ground, a pinch is made on the branches for a length exceeding the thickness of the root by 2.5 times, from bottom to top from the side facing the ground. The place of vaccination is tied up and covered with var. The root is held with a wooden butt in previously prepared nutrient soil.
Receiving layering is possible in any part of the crown, if the grafted root is in appropriate conditions in boxes, pots, bundles of birch bark and roofing, etc., filled with moist earth.
Parts of roots 8-10 cm long and about 1 cm thick can be grafted without soil anywhere in the crown on thin branches (up to 1.5 cm) with careful plasticine covering both the grafting site and the entire root.
Grafting in a split (into a split). Grafting into a split, or into a split, is characterized by cutting off the top of the stock and splitting the stump, followed by insertion of the cutting into the slot.
Split grafting, used in the past, was of great importance and was called "clothespin". This is one of the old methods of grafting. Split grafting is most often used where other methods of grafting are of little use due to the coarsening of the bark or the mutilation of the rootstock by other unsuccessful graftings.
(Fig. 34)

Grafting by the bark, for example, is possible only with the beginning of sap flow, and grafting into splitting can be done long before that, when there is no such hasty work that usually begins with complete thawing of the soil. Cuttings grafted into a split before the start of sap flow develop well in the summer.
Another positive side of splitting grafting is the possibility of using overgrown wilds and fruit-bearing trees as rootstocks, where other graftings are less effective due to the poor condition of the rootstocks.
Grafting into a split can be performed both on a wild game, almost equal in thickness to a cutting, and on a stock several centimeters thick.
When grafting into a split, larger cuttings are used than when grafting over the bark and when copulating.
Split grafting is most often applied to wildlings already relatively mature, with a strong root system, so this grafting produces resistant cultivated trees that can endure colder winters.
(Fig. 35)

They start grafting into splitting from the second half of March and stone fruits are the first to be grafted, and after two weeks they are seed.
Grafting technique. Rootstocks intended for grafting into a split (split) are cleaned of contamination and excess old bark. Wild birds are cut down on a stump at a height of 10-12 cm from the ground or slightly higher, the cut is cleaned with a garden knife. Along the proposed split, on either side of the wild, from the transverse cut straight down, it is better to make a longitudinal section of the bark so that when the hemp is split, the bark does not turn out to be torn.
After that, a stump is split with a garden knife or a hatchet and a wooden wedge or blade is inserted into the gap formed at the end of the hatchet so that the gap is open. The gap is widened with a blade by turning the hatchet a quarter of a turn. When splitting the hemp, you can use a mallet.
The cuttings are taken in various sizes. If the presence of graft material allows, then preferably with 3-5 eyes, not counting the part of the handle that will be processed into a blunt wedge. The wedge is introduced in such a way that the cambial layers of the handle and the game come together.
The lower part of the cutting is cut into a wedge so as to ensure lateral contact of the cuts of the cutting with the wood of the rootstock and the coincidence of the cambium. A wedge length of 4 cm is quite sufficient.
On rootstocks with a thickness of 2-3 cm or more, 2 cuttings are usually inserted, one at a time on one and the other side of the split. After the cuttings are inserted, the blade, with which the gap is widened, is removed, and both halves of the hemp will tightly squeeze the cuttings. With such a thickness of rootstocks, strapping is almost never used.
When grafting into a split, the use of putty is mandatory. She covers all the wounds: a gap on the stump, a cross section of the stump and a cut above the upper buds of the cuttings. The gap on top is covered with plasticine or hard garden putty.
When grafting into a split with one cutting, the stump is usually cut so that one side of it is higher than the other. The cutting is placed on the higher part of the stump.
When grafting to thick rootstocks, the number of cuttings per cut can be increased to four. In this case, the stump is split crosswise. Noteworthy is the half-split grafting, in which the stump is damaged to a lesser extent than with full splitting.
With a garden knife or hatchet, with this grafting, the stump is split along the radius only on one side to a length of about 4 cm (without bringing the split to the opposite side).
In addition to the described grafting into a full split through the core of the stock or into a semi-split along the radius, there are graftings into a split on the side of the stump
(Fig. 36)