Tool for sharpening drills with 2 nuts. Making a homemade grinder for drills

Do you need the drills to be always sharpened, and you won't find a special machine in the daytime with fire even in specialized stores? And make a do-it-yourself drill sharpener. You can easily cope with the assembly of a simple structure if you have at least a little experience in working with basic tools.

Homemade machine

The drill sharpener can be of great value in the household, as with the help of this device you can independently sharpen drills of any diameter and type. In addition to making a special unit, you will need an electric motor with a sharpening stone.

Main materials:

1. Metal plate with holes - 1 pc .;
2. Bolt or hairpin 70x15 mm long;
3. Washer set;
4. Corner - 30x30 or 40x40;
5. Plates - 3-4 mm thick;
6. Cotter pin - 30x1.5 mm;
7. Clamps.

In addition to materials, you will need tools for their machining and joining, in particular, electric welding and a grinder.

Instruments:

1. Electric welding.
2. Drill.
3. Bulgarian.
4. Hammer with percussion tips.
5. Special clips 2 pcs.
6. Spanners.
7. Pliers.

Manufacturing process:

1. Making the mounting plate

The mounting plate is made of a metal backing with holes about 3-4 mm thick. On one side, the part is cut by 3 centimeters, while during cutting it is required to save the finished hole. The cut-off part will be needed to make the next part of the sharpening device, and a large element for the lining when placing the product on the table.

2. Corner for fixing the drill

The element is designed for fixing the drill during sharpening. It is made by cutting off a part of a regular corner 30x30 or 40x40. The total length varies between 60-90 mm, while the outer part is cut at an angle of 60 degrees to give the sharpened plane the desired level.

3. Mount for the fixing angle

The cut part with a hole from the plate is connected to another metal plate, while the elements are superimposed on each other and electrically welded to the corner. For welding, an assembly cutout should be cut out on the plates to fit the parts back to back and weld.

In the connected parts, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the bolt or stud, and the parts themselves are carefully scalded on all sides to give rigidity.

4. Welding the bolt

A bolt or stud is used to fix the angle. The element is welded at a 75 degree angle to the base plate. During scalding, the bottom plane should be taken into account, if necessary, remove the slag in order to eliminate the distortion of the product.

5. Fastening the washer to the bolt

The washer is installed on the bolt at a level of 25 mm from the upper extreme part. The approximate diameter is 30 mm. The element is welded using electric welding in the desired design position, observing all levels along the plane.

6. Hole in the hairpin

In the absence of a hole for installing a cotter pin in a bolt (hairpin), it is required to make it using a drill and drill of the required diameter. Due to this technical element, the fixing angle will be fastened. The diameter can be different, but the main condition is reliable fixation.

7. Stop for drill

It is made from a metal bar and a special vise clamp. The bar is welded to the fixing angle from below. The clamping mechanism is mounted on a bar, while a special bowl-stop for the drill should be equipped on the device from the corner.

The system is mounted on the grinding table and fixed with additional clamps.

Video: how to make a drill sharpener.

Drill sharpening machine

This method is available to anyone. For this you need a drill. Perhaps not immediately from the store counter, but already obsolete and not used by you. She will act as a motor.

It must be fixed on the bed, insert a sleeve or a ready-to-install grinding wheel or a universal fine-grained disc into the chuck. All. Turning on the drill, you get a rotating abrasive, which is a pleasure to sharpen the drill.

A very simple sharpening solution. However, do not forget about the tools for sharpening the drill, which fixes the sharpened element relative to the sharpener.

Then you do not have to go to a specialist every time, and you yourself can maintain the required sharpness of the drill.

For sharpening, you need a special device that is used in professional work.

However, if it is not there, you can assemble the sharpener by hand and do all the work with your own hands correctly.

From the article, you will learn how to make a machine necessary for sharpening metal, as well as how to properly sharpen a drill for metal. The instruction on the video will help you cope with this work faster and do everything right. You will also learn how to sharpen crown, stepped and other types of drills.

Preparation for work

You don't have to be a professional to know how to sharpen metal drills. This requires a sharp attachment to help keep it in optimal working condition.

Since you have to sharpen the device for metal regularly, if you often work with this tool, some people prefer to buy a ready-made sharpening machine, rather than assemble it with their own hands.

The most effective tool for sharpening core drills is the machine on which the grindstone is installed.

It's easy to use and you don't need complicated instructions to get started.

However, it is advisable to know some of the nuances of how sharpening is carried out before starting the process: the tool is machined from the back along the edges, while the most important role is played by the angle at which the tool is located when fed to the machine.

If the angle is wrong, the tool will be damaged and it will be impossible to fix it - you will have to buy a new one.

During sharpening, the greatest attention should be paid to the edge that makes up the cutting part of the device - it should be the sharpest, since it interacts with metal parts: screws, jumpers, etc.

Watch a video on how to properly sharpen the fixtures before starting this process yourself.

After that, you need to collect the necessary tools that you will need to make a grinder. It will not be possible to make it from improvised means - you will have to visit a hardware store.

First of all, you will need special circles that are needed for sharpening.

Only one circle will need to be installed on the device itself, but they quickly deteriorate, therefore it is recommended to buy several parts at once so that later you do not spend a lot of time replacing them.

This is especially true if you use the tool constantly - then you will have to sharpen it often. The acquired circle is installed on a rotating shaft.

In addition to these parts, you will need a cooling fluid - this can be water or machine oil. You also need a container to fill the liquid with.

If you do everything with your own hands, then you must remember about the liquid, because during the sharpening process the tool becomes very hot.

If you cannot cool it, then its properties will deteriorate, and each time it will fail faster and faster.

A homemade crown tool machine must have the correct angle, and this is the hardest part of making a device with your own hands.

To make the angle correct, you need to make difficult calculations, so often consumers decide to purchase a ready-made sharpening tool in order to save time and effort.

The most important angle is at the front, it is determined based on the main cutting plane.

The clearance angle has parameters similar to the front angle, but in accordance with the rear plane.

In order to determine how the upper corner is located, you need to look at the device from the side position: in the correct position it is located between the first and second edges.

Typically, the first angle should have a slope of about 20 degrees, and the back angle - 10. The top angle is always the same on all devices: 118 degrees.

Before work, you need to prepare gloves and glasses, as this work can be traumatic.

If you have little experience in creating such machines with your own hands, then pay close attention to how the circle is located, because if its feed angle is incorrect, then the circle will simply break out of your hands.

Watch a video on how to assemble a sharpener - it will help a lot if you have little experience.

Sharpening process and machine advantages

Core drills, step drills and other drills are sharpened in the same way, in several stages. The back of the device will be most involved.

First you need to turn on the device equipped with emery, and bring a stepped drill to the circle, for example, which needs to be sharpened. In this case, the cutting part of the stepped drill should be directed towards the sharpener.

When working, the drill must be held very tightly so that it does not slip out.

If you positioned the drill correctly, it should be parallel to the mechanism.

In this position, all that remains is to sharpen it, and then you will get a quality tool that can be used again.

This sharpening method is only suitable for small drills, the diameter of which does not exceed 10 mm.

If the diameter of the drill turns out to be larger, then you need to extend the time spent on sharpening, and also pay more attention to the front of the tool.

How to sharpen drills with different diameters, see the video.

To sharpen core drills with a diameter greater than 16 mm, you need a full-fledged machine.

In this case, do-it-yourself work will be more expensive and longer, however, using the machine will make it of higher quality, since in this case you can easily set the correct inclined angle.

If you often use drills of different sizes, then the machine will quickly pay for itself, because they have to be sharpened constantly.

There are several characteristics of core drills and other drills that can only be sharpened with a machine. Read them before you get started.

Firstly, if a stepped or other device is designed to work with a blind hole, where the axial cutting force is reduced, then such a tool must be sharpened on the machine.

This is also the case with drills designed to work with strong metals, or tools that have a small point and are designed to drill deep holes.

A straightening machine must not only sharpen the drill, but also orient the tool to the work surface relative to the grinding wheel.

That is why the machine is equipped with a sharpening plate that allows you to do this.

The device itself is fixed on the grinding plate, as well as the shaft and motor, thanks to which the machine is started.

The drill of the machine is installed on the turntable, which is also located on the base plate.

The stove is easy to turn the way you want and convenient - this is another plus in using a full-fledged device.

The machine is started with the help of a motor, so the column can be made from any bearing assembly equipped with a shaft.

You will need to fix the mount on the shaft, where the sharpening drill will be installed. You can fix it with ordinary bolts - they will give the tool the necessary reliability.

After you have installed the drill, you can turn on the machine: after starting, the column will automatically move to the circle and turn it around with the back, which needs sharpening.

Such a system is very convenient, since it allows you to independently correctly set the angle that is needed for high-quality tool processing.

Large machines are used to process twist, core and other drills, which have a diameter of more than 16 mm, for smaller tools, compact nozzle machines can be used.

It is more convenient to work with such devices, because they can be moved or installed wherever you want.

The device of such a machine is similar: on one side there is an attachment unit responsible for installing the drill on the spindle, and on the other there is a hole in which the drill is installed.

It is much easier to work with this device with your own hands: you need to fix the drill until it stops, and then start the machine.

The easiest, but least effective way to sharpen a tool is to do it with a grinder, or a device on which a movable wheel is installed.

This method can only be effective if you can fix the drill in the correct position, which is quite difficult.

This method is traumatic, since the drill can easily slip off the circle during operation.

It makes sense to use a grinder only if you need to process a drill with a minimum diameter, and there are no other devices for this.

In addition, sharpening with a grinder does not imply the creation of debugging, which is a very important part of the process. Finishing is needed in order to make the tool even and smooth.

With professional sharpening, fine-tuning is done necessarily, since this increases the service life of the device.

If you have a silicon carbide circle, then the finishing process can be done with your own hands at home.

Despite the fact that the process of sharpening a drill is not too complicated, without specialized devices, although it is not recommended to do this with your own hands, because you can not only damage the tool, but also injure yourself if you do not follow the technology of work, or use tools not intended for sharpening , for example, a grinder.

It is impossible to perform high-quality metal processing (including drilling a hole in a metal part) without using a tool whose mechanical characteristics and geometric parameters correspond to the required values. That is why the question of how to sharpen a drill for metal correctly is relevant for DIYers who often work with such a tool that wears out (which is natural) during operation.

Sharpening a drill for metal using a special tool greatly simplifies the task

Drills designed for metal work have to be sharpened much more often than those with which woodworking is performed. When processing such a soft material such as wood, the drills are practically not dull and can be successfully operated for a very long time, fully retaining their original characteristics. The situation is completely different with drills, with the help of which holes are made in metal parts. It is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of such drills and immediately take measures if their working part has undergone wear.

The fact that a drill for metal needs to be sharpened is evidenced by a number of signs:

• creak and hum from a worn-out instrument;
• intensive heating of the drill during its use;
• poor quality of holes created.

Working with a worn drill bit is not only ineffective but also unsafe. At any time, such a drill, on the working part of which is subject to significant loads, can break, and its individual fragments flying in different directions at high speed can cause serious injury.

Drill sharpening parameters

Both in production and at home, drills for metal can be sharpened on emery machines equipped with a grinding wheel of appropriate hardness. It is best to use off-the-shelf equipment in such cases. If it is not available, then you can sharpen drills on hand-made devices. It should be borne in mind that the characteristics of this equipment, as well as the tools for sharpening drills used with it in the kit, largely determine the quality of such a procedure.

The most important parameters that should be considered in order to properly sharpen a metal drill with your own hands are:

1. the angle at which the back of the tool is to the drilling plane;
2. angle of sharpening of the front surface of the cutting part;
3. the length of the transverse bridge on the cutting part;
4. angle at the tip of the cutting tool;
5. length of cutting edges.

To sharpen the drill to be of high quality, it is necessary to ensure that it is fed into the processing zone at the required angle. To solve this problem, various devices are used with which grinding machines are equipped.

It should be borne in mind: if the sharpening of the drill for metal is performed incorrectly, this can lead not only to a poor-quality result, but also to tool breakage.

What is needed for the procedure

To sharpen a drill for metal yourself, you must first determine what tasks it will be used for. In production conditions, for sharpening drills, as a rule, special devices are used to ensure maximum accuracy and productivity of such a process. When sharpening drills at home, you always have to look for ways to make the result of this process of high quality.

The minimum set for sharpening drills for metal should include:

• emery machine;
• grinding wheels of various hardness, selected depending on the material of manufacture of the drill to be sharpened;
• a container for a coolant and the liquid itself, which can be used as ordinary water (or machine oil);
• tools to maintain correct sharpening angles.

When sharpening drills with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

• the angle between the plane of the front of the drill and the base of its cutting edge (this angle, measured in the main cutting plane, is called the front);
• clearance angle, which is measured in the same way as the front angle, but along the back plane of the drill;
• tool nose angle, measured between two cutting edges.

To sharpen metal drills in accordance with all the rules, you must adhere to the following values \u200b\u200bof the above parameters:

• cutting edge rake angle - 20 °;
• back angle - 10 °;
• apex angle - 118 °.

If you need to sharpen a drill for metal in a production or at home, you must strictly follow safety precautions. This process is accompanied by the formation of a large number of sparks, from which it is necessary to protect the organs of vision. In addition, since this procedure is performed with sharpened metal tools, it should be carried out using gloves to protect the hands.

An emery machine equipped with a grinding wheel is a universal device that allows you to sharpen a drill for metal with high quality even at home. Using such a device, the technological operation should begin with machining the flank of the tool. The drill to be sharpened is held in relation to the grinding wheel so that its cutting part is parallel to the surface of the wheel. This sharpening technique is ideal for metal drills with a diameter of less than 10 mm.

To sharpen drills with a diameter greater than 16 mm (including those equipped with carbide inserts), it is best to use an emery machine with a special device. The use of the latter allows not only to control the sharpening angle of drills of significant diameter, but also to carry out such a process with maximum safety.

Grinding machines equipped with accessories are recommended for use in cases where it is necessary to sharpen drills of the following categories:

• used for drilling blind holes, which is characterized by a decrease in the axial cutting force;
• universal, characterized by increased strength;
• used for drilling deep holes and characterized by a small amount of undercut.

The main task solved by devices that allow high-quality sharpening of a drill for metal on a grinding machine is the correct orientation of the cutting part of the tool in relation to the surface. That is why there is a special base plate in the design of such a device. The machine itself, the motor that drives the grinding wheel in rotation, as well as the turntable, on which the tool being processed is fixed, is installed on it. The use of such a column allows you to sharpen drills in almost any spatial position, positioning their cutting part in relation to the surface of the grinding wheel at the required angles.

Benefits of using special tools

A big advantage of using grinding machines equipped with special devices is that the movement of the tool being processed on them is provided by a drive connected to an electric motor. The structural diagram of such a drive includes a bearing assembly and a shaft. At the end of the latter, a drill is fixed, which must be sharpened.

Before starting the procedure, the tool is fixed on the device at the required sharpening angles. After the metal drill is fixed on the movable column of the fixture, it itself is brought to the rotating grinding wheel. Thus, all corners that need to be formed on the flank of the cutting part are automatically maintained during the sharpening process. Among the main disadvantages of such a drill sharpening machine, its large size is usually noted.

If you are looking for an answer to the question of how to properly sharpen a drill for metal without performing complex manipulations with the tool being processed, you can recommend more compact devices. One of these devices is a packing machine. It is installed on the spindle of a conventional electric drill, from which its main working element, the grinding wheel, is driven into rotation. One end of such a device is equipped with a special coupling that connects the device with the rotating spindle of an electric drill, and the other end with a cover with holes of different diameters, into which the working parts of the sharpened metal drills are inserted.

It is very easy to teach someone to use this tool, which allows you to quickly sharpen a drill at home. At the same time, you don't even have to show such a process on video or live, everything is clear without demonstration. To sharpen a drill for metal using such a device, it is enough to insert the tool into the hole of the corresponding diameter until it stops and turn on the electric drill, which will rotate the grinding wheel. A tool sharpened with such a simple device has all the required geometric parameters.

It would seem that you can sharpen a drill using any device that can rotate the grinding wheel. Meanwhile, without the use of devices for fixing the tool in the sharpening process, such a procedure cannot be performed efficiently. In addition, serious injury can occur. You can turn to this simplest sharpening method only if you need to sharpen small-diameter drills that are easy to hold in your hands during processing.

When sharpening manually, a corner fixed on the support will help to maintain the required parameters

It is convenient, efficient and correct to work with a good tool! Today we have a useful homemade product for the home and garage - a homemade drill sharpening machine. Correctly sharpening a drill presents some difficulties without experience. Moreover, drills of large diameters (somewhere from 6mm) are still amenable to sharpening control and, at the very least, they can be sharpened after some time. Drills of small diameters, especially demanded by masters of radio and electronic equipment, have to be sharpened literally by touch and under a magnifying glass and without the use of mechanization using corundum sticks. By the way, recently we published an article "" who has not read, be sure to read it!

Using my deposits of illiquid assets and conducting a survey of the Internet, I havetily assembled a simple device that allowed sharpening drills from 2.0 to 6.0 mm without much difficulty. Further improvement of the adaptation is possible and is a task for the near future. General view on photos 1 and 2.

As, of course, it is known drills for metal have a sharpening angle at the top of 120 degrees. (Less for wood and soft metal.) The photo shows a yellow square lying between the sharpener and the fixture, providing this angle, i.e. the drill is located at an angle of 60 degrees. to the working end of the abrasive disc. The desired angle of the drill head is provided by the initial inclination of the drill relative to the disc.

The principle of operation of the device is not new and has been repeated many times and published on the network. The difference between this device is the use of so-called jewelry vise, available for sale and inexpensive, to fix the drill. I had these very old, altered and worn out over 30 years of use. Photo taken from the network.

The principle of operation is simple - by turning the handle, we push the jaws apart and by reverse rotation we clamp something, for example a drill.

These dots have been revised. The rivets were drilled out and plates were installed on these seats and re-riveted with longer rivets. Further it will be clear why this is done.

The drill is clamped in a vice so that the cutting edges are parallel to the jaws.

Along the edges of the riveted plates, coaxial holes are drilled at the same distance from the center and lying on a straight perpendicular to the axis of the vise (that is, to the drill). An axis will pass through these holes on which this "rocker" will swing alternately when sharpening one and the other face. With an ideal marking of the rocker, equality of the cutting edges will be achieved when sharpening.

The rocking chair is fixed on the posts (the bodies of the mortise door latches without internals fit. In turn, the posts are screwed to an oak plate. There are also four support legs for adjusting the desired height.

The rocker with a drill is placed between the posts on the axis, the axle is removable.

Sharpening the first face (the jaws are painted over with a blue marker).

The sharpening of the second side-rocking chair is turned 180 degrees. (the painted side is not visible). Top view of this node.

The finished drill is in the photo below. Errors that occurred when working "on the knee" and old worn vise did not allow sharpening drills from 1 mm. Shown here is a 1.5 mm sharpened drill. At high magnification, the difference in the lengths of the cutting edges is visible (small, but there)

A drill is, perhaps, one of the most common both in everyday life and in the production of devices for mechanical processing of materials, which allows you to quickly and accurately make a hole in a surface with a very different structure. Whether it's a hand-held brace, an electric drill, or a large radial drilling machine, they all use a drill as their cutting tool. It is a hardened carbide metal rod of various diameters, with a shank and a working part in the form of two or more cutting edges, which, when rotating, extract material.

Drill angle: individual approach to each material

Depending on the type of surface, requirements for the quality of processing and a number of other conditions, it can have a very different appearance. The most common option is when its working part consists of two cutting edges twisted together in a spiral, forming a cone at the end of the drill, the height of which determines the angle of sharpening of the drill. Its value depends on the hardness of the material being processed and for each material it can have its own values:

• carbon steels, cast iron and hard bronze alloys - from 116º to 118º;
• soft bronze and copper - from 120º to 130º;
• aluminum and wood surfaces - 140º;
• polymers and plastics - from 90º to 100º.

Conditions for a long and active drill life

If we exclude the thoughtless (or hopeless) option of using a drill without victorious soldering for working on concrete or stone (when the tool fails in just a minute), then the most actively blunt cutting edges when drilling hard metals. The service life of the drill in this case depends on the hardness of the work surface, as well as the speed of rotation, feed force and the presence of cooling of the cutting tool. It is extremely easy to determine the moment of deterioration of the cutting qualities of the drill by the characteristic sharp whistle and the need for more pressure on the drill. As a result, the drill heats up very quickly, the drilling time increases significantly with a simultaneous decrease in the quality of the hole obtained, and the drill needs to be replaced to continue normal operation.

Better to lose an hour, and then drill in five minutes

Since drills are considered consumables and are relatively inexpensive on small sizes, many simply throw them away, replacing them with new ones. However, this approach can be justified only with a small amount of work, a low cost of a part and the proximity of a hardware store. It is much more economical and faster to sharpen a drill for metal with your own hands. There are a lot of devices for this operation, and, as a rule, the price of such equipment directly depends on the speed, versatility and quality of processing of the cutting tool.

The correct form of sharpening is the key to effective work

As a result of processing, the cutting edge of the drill is given a certain geometry, priority for a particular drill diameter and the structure of the surface to be machined. To obtain the required shape, respectively, different methods of sharpening the cutting edge are used. There are single-plane, conical, two-plane, screw and cylindrical types of sharpening. At home, the first two methods are most often used as the simplest ones, and drills with a diameter of up to three millimeters are sharpened in one plane, providing a thirty-degree slope of the clearance angle. The disadvantage in this case is the high probability of destruction of the working part of the edge due to its thinning, therefore, for drills of a larger diameter, sharpening in the form of a cone is usually used, forming an angle at their tip within the range of 118-120º.

Ways to achieve the desired sharpening quality

In principle, having certain skills, sharpening can be carried out without an auxiliary tool. The main thing in this case is to observe the required machining angle, as well as the equal length of the working surface of the cutting edges and their symmetrical inclination relative to the drill axis. However, this is not so easy to achieve in practice, a very small error for any of the listed indicators is enough, and your drill will not work properly. The use of special devices simplifies the process, but you must admit that it is inexpedient to purchase an expensive machine to put in order a pair of metal drills. In addition, a homemade drill sharpener will help to cope with this task, albeit with less comfort, but also not bad.

With all the variety of options, the principle of operation of all devices of this type is based on the formation of a rigid template or guide along which the sharpened tool is fed to the emery wheel in a certain plane.

Nut, screw, direction - that's all adaptation

Perhaps one of the fastest and most affordable options would be to make a drill sharpener from a nut. Its six edges form an angle of 120º on adjacent planes and can serve as an excellent template for setting the desired angle of sharpening of the cutting edge of the drill. The manufacturing procedure for such a device is quite simple and does not take much time. The nut is clamped with the flat side upwards in a vice and, using an angle grinder (grinder), longitudinal cuts are made along the line connecting the opposing corners of the hexagon. On one side of the hardware, you can make six grooves (according to the number of vertices), thus forming three guides.

The size of the nut, as well as the width and depth of the guide recess, are selected based on the diameter of the sharpened drill. After that, the entire outer surface of this simple device is carefully processed with sandpaper or a file to remove burrs.

That, in fact, is all, the simplest tool for sharpening drills with your own hands is ready. Now the drill requiring sharpening is placed inside the guide (between two opposing corners) so that the edge to be machined protrudes slightly beyond the top of the hexagon. The device is clamped in a vice, tightly fixing the drill in the nut groove with the tip up, and using the same grinder, they carefully grind the protruding cutting edge using the side surfaces of the hardware as a guide, forming a sharpening angle of 120 °.

If necessary, the drill in the groove can be fixed with a clamp, and instead of angle grinders, they are used with an emery wheel.

There are never too many hardware: modernization of the nut tool

This design can be slightly improved by making deeper (depending on the diameter of the sharpened drill) V-cuts in the opposing vertices and welding a smaller nut on the same side of the fixture. In this case, the drill can be fixed with a clamping screw screwed into a nut welded from above.

As a result, there is no need to use a vice and a clamp (the main thing in this case is not to pinch the screw so as not to bend the drill). Such a device allows you to successfully cope with the sharpening of drills, even of small diameters (up to three millimeters), when it is almost impossible to maintain and control the sharpening angle without special tools.

Wood guides for sharpening drills

Now let's look at how to make a device for sharpening drills from bars or thick plywood. The structure is a wooden rail rigidly attached to the base. The base part of the device is made of a flat rectangular board (thick plywood) with a rectangular cutout on one side of which, providing access to the side surface of the emery wheel. Then a lining is prepared from plywood in the form of a right-angled triangle or trapezoid with a side inclination at the base of 60º (from the top - 30º), which guarantees a sharpening angle of 120º. The dimensions of the guide should ensure free placement of the sharpened drill along it, both in length and in height.

The finished pad is attached with self-tapping screws to the far edge of the base board with an acute angle towards the emery wheel. Sharpening drills for metal with a device of this type requires its precise fixation along the outer (wide) surface of the abrasive. Each cutting edge is formed separately, by smoothly rolling the drill against the rotation of the circle, then the same procedure is repeated for the other side, achieving perfect balance. With frequent use, wear and tear can occur on the wheel, and you will have to either move the tool along the emery or replace the abrasive. This method is good in that it allows you to easily obtain the required slope of the cutting edge by quickly replacing the upper guide to the required size.

Using guide bushings for sharpening

Another option for processing drills, actively practiced at home, is a wooden vertical rack with hollow metal bushings of various diameters, which are placed in a bar at the angle required for sharpening. As a result of machining, a taper is formed at the back of the cutting edges, but without the correct clearance angle.

Professional solutions: great results for little money

All homemade devices provide acceptable, but alas, imperfect results. Even without taking into account the high probability of error in the independent manufacture of sharpening devices, there are still a number of parameters, non-observance of which leads to a rapid failure of the drills. This is why large manufacturers are developing sophisticated devices and even machines to bring cutting tools into working order.

One of such mechanisms is the drill grinde, which makes it possible to return the sharpness to the spiral drill bits for metal with a diameter of three to nineteen millimeters. The device easily copes with the task of forming a cutting edge of any inclination, while having a scale with standard sharpening angles (98, 118, 136 and 176 degrees, as well as for countersinks). Perfect sharpening quality is guaranteed by precise drill positioning thanks to the clamping screws. The heel (clearance angle of the cutting surface) is formed due to the small axial tilt, which sets the arc motion of the drill during machining.