Installation of drywall without a frame on self-tapping screws. Plasterboard wall cladding without frame

Plasterboard has recently become one of the most demanded materials for renovation work in apartments. Large in area, even and smooth surfaces of sheets allow in a short time to eliminate the curvature of the walls, to prepare the room for subsequent finishing. In addition, if the gypsum board is attached to the frame structure, then it becomes possible to additionally insulate the ceiling as well.

But the creation of a frame is not possible in all cases, since such a structure essentially "steals" the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Therefore, for the owners of city apartments planning to carry out repairs, information on how to fix drywall to a wall without profiles is often more useful, so that the loss of space in an already cramped environment is minimal.

There are several methods for such drywall fixing. But for any of them, the wall requires some preparation.

Preparatory work

Any work begins with the preparation of a set of necessary tools and the acquisition of the necessary materials.

Materials and tools

AND. Of the tools you will need:

Drywall knife.
A building level, a plumb line, a marking line, a tape measure, a long ruler or a rule, a pencil or a marker - for preliminary marking and constant monitoring of the verticality of the surface during the installation of sheets.
Rubber and regular hammer.
Spatula or trowel
Container for mixing glue.
Screwdriver, electric drill with a mixer attachment.
Long-handled roller and soft brush.
Chamfering planer

B. Materials for work:

Drywall sheets. Depending on the room, the usual ones can be used - GKL, moisture-resistant GKLV, and if the wall is finished near the stove or fireplace, then fire-resistant GKLO will be required. The number of sheets is calculated taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls of the room minus the areas of window and door openings from it, and making a margin of about 15%.

The number of drywall sheets will help you quickly and accurately calculate the calculator below.

How to attach drywall to a wall without a frame - technologies, materials, features. Recently, drywall has become one of the most demanded repair materials for houses and apartments. They are flat, have a large area and smooth, which makes it possible to quickly remove the curvature of the walls, as well as prepare the room for further finishing.

In addition, if the sheets are attached to the frame, there will be an additional opportunity to insulate and soundproof the ceiling / walls.

But not in every case it is possible to make a frame, since such a structure will “steal” the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment. For this reason, for apartment owners who are planning renovation work, it will be useful to learn how to finish the walls with drywall without, so as not to lose usable space in an already cramped room. There are several methods for attaching the gypsum board, but each of them will require preliminary preparation.

Preparatory work

Each work begins with the fact that you should prepare all the necessary set of tools and buy all the necessary materials.

Materials required:

LGK. Depending on the room in which the material will be used, you can use ordinary sheets, or moisture-resistant ones, and if you plan to finish the wall near the fireplace or stove, then fire-resistant. The number of sheets can be calculated if we take into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls in the room, taking into account the fact that about 15% of it is occupied by doorways and windows.

The amount of material can be easily and simply calculated using the online calculator.

Surface cleaning and sealing of defects

In order for the sheets to adhere well to the wall, and in any remaining gaps between them there was no fungus or mold, the surface should be carefully prepared. Do not neglect such events, as the term of use of the finish and the base will depend on them.

If there is an old plaster layer on the wall, which has peeled off in places, then its traces should be at least partially (or better, completely) removed, especially in the place of the defect, as this can reduce the adhesion of materials to each other. If there is a thick layer of plaster "fur coat" on the wall, which consists of 2 or more layers that were applied at different time intervals, it is better to remove it completely, since it can begin to lag behind the base at any time, and sheets of drywall will begin to move away with it ... But a thin layer of plaster will not be a problem for plasterboard wall cladding without a frame.

After the walls are cleaned of the old plaster layer, cracks or even peculiar "sinks" can be found on the surface. They must be repaired, otherwise condensation may form, and this will become a catalyst for the development of mold.
First, widen the cracks, and this is required in order for the material in the seal to better hold inside. Sinks and enlarged cracks must be cleaned of sand and plaster particles with a soft brush, and then well primed.
To fill cracks, it is best to choose a repair compound that is close to the base material, or one that has high adhesion. If the cracks are large enough and cover more than 50% of the surface, you can seal them with polyurethane foam.
Gaps with a small width can be filled with a plastic sealant that will take the form of a crack both when it narrows and when it expands.
After the primer has dried, all defects can be filled in more densely with the repair compound and brought into the general surface plane. If protruding protrusions are found on the wall, then they should be knocked down or cleaned off to a general level.
After that, all walls should be primed with a deep penetration antiseptic.

Which primer is best?

The durability of the coating will depend on the quality of the material that will be applied as a base. It is best to choose reputable manufacturers, or those that are very popular, as the company will not produce bad material for short-term gain and ruin its reputation.

This material is applied in 1 or 2 layers, and both must dry well. The process is carried out using a soft roller, and hard-to-reach places and inner corners should be additionally worked out with a brush. The time for complete drying of the primer is indicated on the bottle or pack, and if should be adhered to, since the installation of drywall should only be done on a clean dry wall.

Markup

When the walls are finished with a primer layer and dry, you can start marking. For this, ideally, you should use a laser level. If there is none, do it in the usual way - with a building level or plumb line, a rule, a square and a tape measure. The easiest way is to use the first option.

During the marking, deformation gaps should be taken into account, which should remain at the junction of the gypsum board with the ceiling and floor. During shrinkage at home, they will prevent the sheets from being damaged on hard surfaces.
The gaps must be between the sheets of material for finishing from 0.3 to 0.5 cm, and the sheet is raised from the floor by 0.8-1 cm.For this, a horizontal control line should be beaten off from above, and on the floor it will be easier to observe the gaps by placing a piece of plywood of the required thickness under the sheet ... Later, when the glue hardens and the drywall is attached to the wall without a frame, the stands can be removed, and the gaps at the top and bottom can be filled with foam.
If the gypsum board does not fully cover the height of the wall, then you will have to beat off two lines - along the height of the whole sheet and along the upper edge of the wall. This area will be covered with a cut-off piece of a piece of the required size. Such elements are capable of additional solid sheets only on top, but most professionals recommend placing them in a checkerboard pattern, namely alternately.
The corners in the room are not always even, and for this reason, using a plumb line, you can measure and accurately beat off a vertical line along the joint on two walls. It is required in order to complete the installation and fix the first sheet along it, which should be perfectly level. The evenness will depend on how it is fixed.

After that, you can proceed to the study of glue for gypsum board.

Which adhesive is best?

Installation of gypsum board sheets on the wall without using a frame structure is performed on different surfaces according to the degree of evenness. For this reason, different adhesives can be used for work. To do this, we divide them into three conventional groups: installation on flat walls, on brick walls and on uneven walls.

Adhesive for flat surfaces

Plaster stone and concrete monolithic surfaces can be attributed to smooth walls. Naturally, they are not always smooth, but usually serious alignment is not required. It may be necessary to expose beacons or gypsum slurry or gypsum mixtures if the surface has a slope to one side. On a corrected or even wall, glue drywall to any composition - it can be a cement / gypsum-based composition, as well as polymer mastic. But the easiest option is to use polyurethane foam.

If the surface is smooth and even, you can also use glue, which is made in the form of mastic and is sold in special plastic cartridge tubes, as well as squeezed out using a construction gun or syringe. Gypsum or cement based formulations are sold dry and must be diluted with water before application. All proportions are indicated on the package. If you use just such a composition, then before installing the canvas, you should sprinkle it a little with water.

Features of installation work on brick walls

The walls that are made of brick have to be aligned with the help of gypsum boards. If the masonry is even and of high quality, then installing the gypsum board on it will not differ much from fixing it on a flat surface. But still on such a wall there are defects in the form of seams between bricks and differences. So, the glue will be unevenly distributed, and the canvas may not be installed reliably.

In this case, the preparation of the brick surface is performed as follows:

Determine the vertical wall using a plumb line. If there are drops that are more than 2 cm, a substrate should be made of strips with a width of 10-12 cm. Smooth strips should be fixed vertically from ceiling to floor or parallel, depending on the location of irregularities. Such scraps will become figurative beacons in order to secure large canvases.
Occasionally, instead of straight stripes, rectangles are used, and their size is 10 by 15 cm. They must be glued to the wall at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, depending on the need.

Any glue can be used when leveling a brick wall, but a cement / gypsum-based adhesive is the best and most economical option. If you use polymer mastics or foam, then a lot of such material will be required and this does not guarantee that it will be attached securely.

You should also take into account the material from which the bricks are made in the masonry. If it is red brick or foam concrete, then any type of glue can be used, and for cinder blocks and sand-lime bricks, a special approach will be required, since some formulations should be strengthened. Ready mixes in dry form are universal, but this is not always confirmed in practice, and many pros improve them by adding special components. For example, for 10 kg of cement glue add 500 ml of PVA and 1 kg of gypsum, and for gypsum glue add only PVA for 10 kg (the same 500 ml). Whatever you choose, you should fix the drywall with dowels "fungi",

Installation on uneven ground

In this case, glue, which is sold as a dry mixture, will help out, since a lot of it will be required. Attach drywall to the wall without a frame, if there are large differences, it is possible, and this method will be like mounting to a brick wall. Only in certain areas, instead of one layer of substrate, it will be necessary to glue 2-3. This method is time-consuming, since each layer in the substrate must dry before another layer is glued to it.

On a curved wall, an extremely reliable fixation of the canvas to the surface with dowels and tight filling of the space between the wall and the wall, in particular at the edges, is required. If using underlays, they can be fixed to the wall with foam, and for gluing the main canvas, use an adhesive solution made from two different compounds.

Installation of gypsum board without frame

Here are the techniques for applying different glue to the sheets, and they differ from each other.

The most popular material is gypsum-based glue. The composition on cement is often used, but both options are applied to the canvas according to the same principle.

Before installing, the edges at the joint should be cut at a certain angle, namely, chamfering, so that a gap appears, which will be filled with putty. But keep in mind that it is not necessary to apply the composition to a sheet of material, but you can do it right on the wall. there is no fundamental difference, but in this case the wall must be prepared with a primer.

Synthetic finish

The second installation method is the use of a synthetic compound, and it can be done in two ways:

Apply mastic or foam to the surface of the gypsum board.
Fill the space between the installed and aligned sheet and the wall with foam.

The method using polyurethane foam is more interesting.

Bonding on polyurethane foam

This option is used when installing the sheet on a wall that does not require alignment. Foam is applied to the gypsum board sparingly than glue from a dry mixture. It will be enough just to foil stripes around the entire perimeter of the sheet and diagonally. After the composition is applied, the sheet should be glued immediately. Since the foam has good adhesion to any surface, it will set quickly, and after 24 hours the sheet will already be firmly attached to the wall.

Similarly, all materials are attached to the wall and allowed to dry for a day. If polyurethane putty has been used, it should be applied to the sheet in frequent stripes and around the entire edge. Inside the sheet, the glue should be applied in different ways, but so that the lines run at a distance of 15 to 20 cm from each other. In this case, when pressing the sheet, the glue will be evenly distributed (provided that the walls are even). Since all mastics dry for a long time and for different times, pay attention to this when buying.

Bonding and void filling

This method is the most difficult, but gives excellent results when leveling far from the most even surfaces. Note that only foam can be used for this and in large quantities. Consumption depends on how curved the wall is, i.e. what will be the size of the cavity between the GCR and it. Additional materials will be required to install the frame to the wall without using this method.

Before filling, adjust the foam dosage to use the material as economically as possible. This should be done in advance, as the gluing will be done blindly.

Sealing of seams

When everything is over, you can perform a joint seal. Prime the joints of the sheets, let them dry. In places where the chamfers are cut, apply the primer several times. After that, carefully apply the putty with a spatula, and until it dries, stick the serpyanka or sealing tape and slightly drown in the composition. When the seams are dry, you can proceed to the final finish.

Repair and decoration of any room is not complete without drywall. The material is a layer of gypsum covered with cardboard on both sides. It is used for the device of partitions, finishing the surface of the walls. With its help, they create complex multi-level suspended ceiling structures, arches of complex configuration, trim niches in the walls and make built-in wardrobes with open shelves.

Plasterboard is classified as a universal building and finishing materials that are used in all structural planes of a building. For ceiling work, thinner plasterboard sheets are used, 9 mm thick, their size is 1.2 x 2.5 m.Wall sheets 12 mm thick, 1.2 x 3.0 m in size.

For work under normal conditions, drywall of a standard beige color is used, for the device of moisture-resistant partitions, sheets of a green tone are used, and the execution of structures in fire-hazardous rooms will require a gray shade of the material surface.

Sometimes fastening drywall with a frame is not possible due to the small size of the room, for example, on the balcony, loggia, in utility rooms, during the reconstruction of plumbing units in the apartment. If the frame device "steals" such necessary centimeters, then it is allowed to attach the sheets of material directly to the wall.

Features of fastening drywall without a profile

What you need to prepare for work

Instruments

Drywall knife, spare blade unit.
Plasterboard saw or electric jigsaw.
Strong thread for creating level plane, nails or screws for fastening to the wall.
Construction level, plumb line, pencil, scraper for cleaning the edges of the sheet.
Drill and whisk for mortar, mixing bucket.
Spatula, hammer, rubber mallet, pliers, Phillips screwdriver.

Materials for work

Wall drywall sheets.
Dry adhesive for drywall work. It is allowed to use a starting putty with the addition of plaster of paris or PVA glue in the amount of 10%.
Water and primer for surface adhesion.
Dowels from 80 to 120 mm in size.
Grid for gluing seams "serpyanka" and glue.

How to fix drywall to a wall without profiles

Surface preparation

If the wall is made of brick or concrete, then the preparatory work includes cleaning the surface from layers and splashing mortar. Next, the surface is primed with an impregnating compound. The impregnation should be diluted according to the instructions on the package, since each manufacturer makes a different composition of the soil concentration. If it is written that the soil is ready for use, then it is not required to dilute it.

With the old plaster on the wall, you need to inspect it and identify weak, lagging spots that can be knocked down and repaired with a solution. Then treat with soil.

Plasterboard should not be fastened to the walls in rooms where the walls are constantly damp, moisture is transmitted from an uninsulated foundation or gets from the roof. Frameless fastening is not allowed on walls that are subject to constant formation of condensation due to non-observance of the wall thickness according to the thermal engineering calculation.

Before fixing the drywall, inspect it using a level and a plumb line in order to identify the greatest deviations from the vertical and in alignment. If possible, convex places are knocked down, and large depressions are reduced by applying a layer of solution.

All markings with a pencil or chalk are applied to the walls after priming, otherwise the impregnation will blur the marks and everything will have to be repeated again. Drywall sheets are also covered with soil from the side of the wall attachment. Sliced \u200b\u200bbeacons from sheet waste are primed on both sides and left to dry.

If necessary, install electrical wiring, which will be hidden by reinforced sheets from above. If the wire runs on protruding sections of the wall, then a furrow is made to drown the wire.

Fastening drywall without beacons to a relatively flat surface

Dilute dry glue with water in a container using a mixer. Stirring by hand is also allowed, but it will require more effort and time. First, water is poured, and then the dry mixture is poured into it.

If there is a need to add PVA glue to the putty mixture, then it is first stirred in water, and then putty is poured. It will not be possible to add polyvinyl acetate glue to the ready-mixed putty, since the solution will quickly harden and turn into stone.

The glue is applied to the edges of the sheet along the entire perimeter in a continuous strip. In the center, cakes are made from the solution at a distance of 0.4 m in a checkerboard pattern. The total area of \u200b\u200bglue or putty applied to the surface should be more than 1/10 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe sheet for reliable attachment.

The sheet is installed vertically and pressed over the entire area. It is better to do this with an assistant. After that, the level of fastening is checked. If it does not meet expectations, then the material is pressed harder in certain places. For this purpose, sufficient solution is applied to the sheet to take into account such adjustment. It is possible to remove an already rooted sheet from the wall for laying the solution, but it is fraught with a violation of its integrity, in other words, it can break when it comes off.

Some installers hold the sheet in a verified position for about 20 minutes to set the mortar, others grab it in this position with dowels, trying not to break the level.

Fastening drywall to a curved wall using the installation of beacons

If the wall is tilted or has a turn in the plane, then to fix the drywall, you need to make a special layer in the largest depressions. The curvature of the wall is measured first. A sheet of material is attached to the wall and drilled through with self-tapping screws in the places of the depressions, so that they make a mark on the wall. The sheet is removed, and the screws are unscrewed.

A net is made with a strong thread, which will show the desired verticality and plane. Further, in places of marks on the wall from self-tapping screws, one or more layers of rectangles from drywall waste are fixed with glue. All of them must be pre-primed with impregnation. These overlays are placed so that they touch the thread frame from above.

An adhesive mixture is applied to the sheet, placing it, as in the previous version, along the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, only special attention is paid to placing the cakes on the places from drilling the self-tapping screws, which will coincide with the overlays on the wall.

The sheet is raised to a vertical position and pressed against the wall, combining all the required places. Fix for setting and move to the next sheet. A frame of threads and overlays are made simultaneously for the entire wall, and not for each sheet separately.

After fixing problem areas with dowels, the seams between the sheets are sealed with putty and serpyanka.

Installation of drywall without a frame on a wooden wall

To perform this type of work, the use of putty or glue is not required; sheets of material are attached to a wooden surface without gluing with simple screws or wood screws, made with countersunk heads. Places from the drilled heads in drywall are sealed with putty.

If the curvature and unevenness of the wall is observed, then it is leveled with additional wooden linings of different thicknesses. The bulges of the tree are cut with a plane or saw.

Of course, the best option is to mount drywall with a frame, but, having figured out the intricacies, they attach the material directly to the wall, trying to maintain the required level. There are many videos showing the mount without a profile. If you miscalculated, and the curvature still appeared, individual places can be corrected by applying small layers of putty through the putty mesh.

Options for fixing gypsum cardboard without profiles

Today, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and demanded materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. It is very often referred to for leveling the floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to the walls, as well as get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before embarking on the study of such a finishing material as drywall, it is worth figuring out what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard plaster and special fillers inside. It is used for a wide variety of purposes. For different jobs, sheets are produced with different thicknesses. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose the materials of the appropriate category.

Features:

Today, in stores of building and finishing materials, you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. For leveling the walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose "dry" material for such works - drywall.

Today, the problem of uneven walls is familiar to many.It is faced by both the owners of private houses and city apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a brigade of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many finishing materials cannot be applied to them. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpapers. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not hold reliably, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials do emphasize irregularities on the walls.

In such cases, you cannot do without a perfectly flat and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat appearance. In addition, sheets of this popular material are extremely easy to process and can be coated with almost any canvas and paints.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider to be more complicated.

When choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which is fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, then it will hardly be possible to return it to its original appearance. That is why, for the manufacture of, for example, arched structures, ordinary drywall is not suitable, since it will simply break with slight bending.

Another distinguishing quality of drywall is its multitasking ability. It is used not only for leveling different bases, but also for making interesting multi-level ceilings, shelves with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Pros and cons

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

First, let's get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of drywall sheets:

They are distinguished by an even and smooth surface, because of which they are chosen for leveling various substrates.
The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. The room where the walls are sheathed with this material will always be warm and cozy.
Drywall is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It contains no dangerous and harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, such material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew.
Often, consumers buy exactly drywall, since it has an affordable price, and is used for a variety of purposes.
Plasterboard walls can be supplemented with various insulation materials (more often they prefer foam and mineral wool).
Working with drywall is quite simple. You do not need to buy expensive tools for this.

Using this finishing material, you can bring to life any bold design ideas. That is why many designers use drywall in their designs.
Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
GLA does not emit an unpleasant chemical odor.
It handles seamlessly. To do this, you can use almost any material, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. This can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter, it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvases.
Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
With the frame method of fastening drywall, the rough walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and scrupulously using special compounds. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the multiplication of harmful microorganisms.
Many consumers purchase drywall for repair, because it can be used immediately after purchase, allowing them to lie down for 2-3 days without subjecting additional preparation.
Today, the choice of drywall sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

Plasterboard is not recommended for installation in rooms with high humidity levels. For such conditions, it is worth choosing exclusively moisture resistant types of material. However, according to experts, even such drywall in humid conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
Drywall sheets can begin to crumble, especially when exposed to heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, hanging sinks in the bathroom, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects of considerable weight on gypsum walls. Otherwise, these things will not stay in their places for long, and then they will simply fall off and damage the drywall.

You need to work with drywall very carefully so as not to damage it. Do not fold this material unless it is arched.
Drywall on the frame will "eat up" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all areas.

How significant are the listed disadvantages - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly adhere to the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install drywall on the partitions in your home, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will need:

a special knife for cutting plasterboard sheets;
special glue (for frameless mounting method);
a building level, a plumb line, a special marking cord, a tape measure, a long ruler (you can take a rule instead), a pencil / marker - you will need these tools to mark the walls and to correctly control the verticality of surfaces;
normal and rubber hammers;

spatula (you can take a trowel instead);
a separate container for mixing the adhesive;
screwdriver;
puncher;

self-tapping screws;
dowels;
screws;
electric drill with mixer attachment;

long-handled roller;
soft brush;
plane (needed for cutting a chamfer);
putty (for applying the finishing layer after all work).

From the materials you will need:

gKL sheets (ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the sheets are planned to be installed);
galvanized profile or wooden beam (to form a frame with an appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is a versatile material. It is used in a wide variety of conditions and fixes seamlessly on a variety of substrates.

This material is simply indispensable when it comes to a wooden house or a log building.In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that wooden houses always shrink and gypsum plasterboards can be installed in them only after the completion of this process. Otherwise, the sheets may be damaged or deformed under such conditions.

To install drywall on walls in wooden houses, you must:

provide space for the installation of insulation (if, of course, you plan to additionally insulate the room);
have free space for laying communication systems.

Aligning walls in wooden houses is not easy. In this case, frame installation will be the best option. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to boards and bars, and then glue drywall onto them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces, it is not at all necessary to make a complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such substrates using special glue. Such adhesives are very common in stores today. For example, the high-quality composition "Perlfix" is offered by the well-known company Knauf.

Plasterboard is often used to level brick walls.Here you can also refer to the usual gluing of the material without making the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level how curved the floors are, after which any dirt, dust and greasy spots are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be completely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion to drywall cannot be achieved even with high-quality glue.

In case you want to align the walls of foam blocks, then you should turn to the frame installation method. This is due to the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before that, the foam block must be prepared - finished with soil or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require leveling. In such cases, you can use both frame and frameless mounting methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases with a deep penetration primer. In such cases, the glue must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with overlappings from foam blocks. Experts recommend using compounds from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall will be able to make the walls even, even in adobe houses.Such structures are full-fledged composites built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such building materials, there is no need to talk about perfectly flat partitions. For this reason, leveling sheets such as drywall are simply necessary in them.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that gypsum plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or frameless. The choice of one or another installation option largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

On profile

This type of drywall installation is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, the gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame consisting of metal profiles fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some of the nuances of this common installation method:

Insulation can be placed between the wall and the profile, if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, penoplex or polystyrene for this. However, we must not forget that the rough walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
Various engineering communications can be hidden in the cavity behind the frame. These can be water pipes, radiators, or electrical wiring.
Do not forget that in rooms with a high level of humidity, it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets in such conditions will not last long.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame has several advantages:

with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
frame installation allows you to align even ugly curved walls;
before installing the frame and fastening the drywall, the rough partitions do not require preparation (just walk over them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on the frame:

First, you need to measure the walls and make markings on them for the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
The layout for the guides must be started from the top profile. In this case, the necessary indent is made from the overlap, then a line is drawn and, using a plumb line, is transferred to the floor.
The vertical profiles must be spaced at least 60 cm apart. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard sheet rests on three racks.
As for the installation of suspensions, here it is also necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, you need to fix the guide profiles around the perimeter. To screw them to the ceiling and floor, you need to use a hammer drill, dowels and screws.
At the points marked during the measurements, suspensions must be attached.
Carriers should be inserted into the guide profiles and secured with hangers.
Fasten all the parts as securely and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

Before installing the plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
When the frame is ready, you should proceed to installing plasterboard sheets on it. They must be fixed in an upright position. To do this, you can use special metal screws 25 mm. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly "recessed" into the drywall.
After installing all sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using a reinforcing tape.
When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely putty. After that, the surface of the wall decoration will be perfectly flat and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it should be borne in mind that such a design will take away part of the area in the room, therefore, in a very small room, it is better to use a frameless method, if, of course, overlapping allows this.

Profile-free constructions

Frameless fastening of drywall is called glue in another way, since with it the sheets are fixed on the ceilings using a special adhesive.

Choosing this installation option, you need to comply with the following conditions:

there should be no fungus or mold on the rough floors;
crumbling areas should also not be;

walls should not be exposed to freezing;
they must be protected from dampness and excess moisture;
old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contamination must be removed from the surface of the walls.

Frameless drywall fasteners can only be used if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

You can glue drywall to the base in different ways.

The best option must be chosen based on the technical condition of the floors:

The first method of installation is designed for smoother surfaces. With it, the fixing of gypsum plasterboard sheets occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
If the floors have irregularities on their surface, then it is recommended to glue the drywall onto them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length of the reverse side of the plasterboard (maintain a distance of 35 cm between the piles of glue), as well as along its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering in more detail the instructions for the non-profile installation of drywall sheets:

First, you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of drywall boards.
Then you need to competently prepare the surface of the base. If the wall has a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
Now you need to cut the sheets of gypsum board, since you will need not only whole panels, but also prepared inserts.
To make a straight cut, it is best to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make curved cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

Prepare the glue. For this, you can use modern gypsum solutions, which harden for a long time.
If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend its drying time, then add wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the dilution water.
Now you can start gluing drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive. It directly depends on the area of \u200b\u200birregularities on the base. If the overlap is sufficiently even, then the mixture can be applied immediately.
To eliminate significant curvature, beacons should be installed. They can be built from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued along the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

Right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the extreme beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
Line up the beacons with the rule.
Plasterboards must be pressed using the rule set in the various positions. Tap the panels with a rubber mallet and correct their position.
When the glue is dry, the seams between the drywall panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is a lifeline for wall alignment. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called unbearably difficult and energy-consuming.

To give you a more aesthetic and reliable design, consider the following tips and tricks from professionals:

The installation of gypsum plasterboards in the room is permissible only after laying the flooring. Also, by the time of leveling the floors in the room, all issues regarding the laying of communications and heating systems must be resolved.
When gluing drywall (with a frameless method), try to avoid cross-shaped joints. It is better to lay out sheets with an offset.
Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets for non-profile installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
In order for the drywall to reliably hold onto the floors, you need to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling or crumbling areas in the walls.

With the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for a better sealing of all finishing seams). It is recommended to use a special edge planer for this.
It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distraction or wasting time on unnecessary actions.
Adhesives must be diluted based on the instructions. It should be printed on the packaging.
Do not overtighten fasteners on drywall as this can deform the fragile material.
To work with drywall, you need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

Pay attention to temperature conditions during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
It is recommended to install gypsum plasterboards on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after it has been lying in your house for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

One of the rough finishing methods is surface shaping, when plasterboard is installed on walls without a frame. In the article, we will consider effective technologies involving the installation of plasterboard directly on the wall surface, as well as designate a list of materials required for this.

Frameless GKL installation - what are the pros and cons?

The main method of forming a wall structure from gypsum plasterboard sheets is their installation on a pre-built frame. This technology is a priority, as it allows you to quickly create an ideal surface, regardless of the quality of the base wall. The space between the profile and the wall is convenient to use for hidden laying of various communications: electric wires in a protective corrugation, water and heating pipes.

But the frame method of installing gypsum board has several disadvantages:

hiding the useful space of the room (the minimum distance from the base surface to the back of the profile is 5 cm, the thickness of the drywall sheet is 12.5-15 mm);
to obtain a rigid structure that is resistant to possible mechanical influences, it is necessary to sheathe the lathing in two sheets or significantly compact the pitch of the supporting elements of the frame;
problems with securely fastening heavy hanging furniture;
the complexity of the construction of the supporting frame, which requires professional skills and an impressive set of tools;
the relative high cost of the process of creating false walls from gypsum plasterboard.

If you need to level the walls in a small room (bathroom, toilet, corridor), "steal" up to 7 cm of usable space on the cladding of each wall is an unaffordable luxury, especially when no hidden laying of complex communications or additional insulation or sound insulation is expected. In this situation, it is wiser to create a surface for subsequent finishing by fixing drywall to a wall without profiles. The sheets are attached directly to the wall using glue solutions, foam or dowel screws.

Sometimes these materials are used in a complex manner, for example, foam plus dowels, or assembly glue plus foam. This does not mean that one way to attach drywall excludes the use of another. In addition to compactness, the frameless method of installing drywall on the wall has several more advantages:

relative ease of installation at its high speed;
lower material costs for a complex of installation activities;
the ability to make a solid structure using one-sheet sheathing.

The lack of rough plasterboard finishing of walls without a frame and profiles is the impossibility of high-quality installation with a large longitudinal or vertical curvature of the base wall (more than 6 cm within one sheet). Another feature is the high requirements for the GCR itself. Sheathing sheets should be minimally deformed. If the slight curvature of gypsum plasterboard sheets does not matter when mounted on a frame to which they are rigidly attracted, then the frameless method involves a floating installation, therefore it is important to store and transport the material correctly, preventing its deformation. GCR purchased ahead of time cannot be stored in wet rooms, especially in a standing position, leaning them against the wall. Sheets are supposed to be laid out on a flat floor or rack.

What is the fixing of drywall - glue, foam or dowels?

To attach the gypsum board to the base surface, several materials are used, which are specialized and universal. The first group includes special compounds designed for installing drywall to a wall without profiles. These are dry packaged mixtures based on polymer-cement or gypsum. The most demanded representative of specialized compounds is gypsum glue. Knauf Perlfixpreferred by most professionals. It is packaged dry in 30 kg bags.

The advantages of this glue:

sufficient time for installation and correction of the sheet position (30-40 minutes);
high strength and reliability of the wall / plasterboard connection;
high elasticity of the prepared solution, which allows installation on a surface with a curvature of up to 3 cm without gluing additional stops;
there is no need to wait for the glue to dry - immediately after it has set, the plasterboard surface is suitable for subsequent finishing (processing);
adheres even to materials with increased moisture absorption (wood, porous building materials).

The second most frequently used material is polyurethane foam, which belongs to universal clamps used not only to secure drywall. Polyurethane foam is often used to fix small fragments of gypsum boards, when refining door and window slopes, or in combination with gypsum glue to fill large voids and better adhere sheets to walls with a large curvature.

Less commonly, polymer adhesives are used - liquid nails. The use of such glue is justified only in cases of mounting small fragments on a reliable and even base. Liquid nails do not make it possible to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the base surface. Dowel screws are sometimes used as auxiliary fasteners. They additionally attract gypsum boards with the main use of the adhesives listed above. Instead of dowels, you can take black self-tapping screws of the required length with a base surface made of wood or loose porous building materials (shell rock, aerated concrete, foam blocks).

Plasterboard wall cladding without frame - pre-assembly preparation

The use of glue allows you to create a plasterboard surface that is practically not inferior in quality to that when installing the gypsum board on the crate. For work, you will need the following tools and materials:

aluminum rule;
bubble level;
thread (fishing line);
a set of spatulas;
a drill equipped with a mixer;
container for making glue;
wide paint brush;
smooth wall (12.5 mm thick) gypsum plasterboard sheets (ordinary or moisture resistant);
gypsum glue for gypsum board;
primer.

When you have stocked up with everything you need, proceed to surface preparation. Gypsum glue adheres perfectly to any building and finishing materials (various bricks, classic and porous concrete, cement-sand and lime plaster). The main requirement for high-quality adhesion of the adhesive to the base is the absence of dust and many unreliable areas. The latter are removed, after which the wall is primed. Before priming, we recommend knocking down areas of masonry material or plaster (if any) that are sharply protruding above the total surface with a hammer or perforator. This will facilitate the work and significantly reduce the consumption of glue.

To prepare the glue solution, pour water into a container (plastic bucket) at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6-1.7 kg of dry mixture (this is according to the instructions). It is easier to do this: pour water a little more than a third of the bucket, gradually pour the dry mixture into it. When a hill of dry glue appears above the surface of the water, mix with a mixer. If the resulting mass does not leave a depression after removing the rotating mixer, add the dry mixture. If, with thorough mixing, areas of non-wetted solution remain, and the mixer is rotated with a load, add water.

How to attach gypsum plasterboard to gypsum glue - step by step algorithm

Having selected and prepared one of the walls for work, first "probe" its relief and deviation from the vertical with the rule and level, during which a "picture" will be formed, giving an idea of \u200b\u200bwhere the greater and where the minimum layer of glue is needed. Then you need to decide on the general direction of the future drywall surface. To do this, it is convenient to pull a thread along the wall along the bottom (5-7 cm above the floor), which will be a guide for installing the outer surface of the sheets.

The thread is stretched taking into account the surface relief so that the installed sheet does not rest against the existing protrusions of the base wall.

If the wall is not very curved ("walks" no more than 3 cm within the area of \u200b\u200bthe fixed sheet), installation is carried out without preliminary installation of additional supports. In the presence of significant concavities, strips or squares of plasterboard scraps that remain after cutting the sheets are pre-glued. If there are none or few, you will have to donate a whole sheet for this, cutting it into the necessary substrates. When the glue fixing the wall-trimming pads has hardened, proceed to gluing the whole (or cut to size) sheets.

Gypsum glue is applied to the base surface over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe installed gypsum board. It is inconvenient to apply the solution to drywall. First, it greatly increases its mass, which makes it difficult to move. Secondly, by forming slides of glue on the wall, it is easier to control their required size and the degree of protrusion above the common surface. The glue is applied randomly, but evenly and in such a way that a fourth or fifth part of the sheet is glued. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe plinth and the intended fastening of the attached objects, it is more expedient to make the glue pad solid. Now that the glue mass is already on the wall, we do the following:

1. Under the GKL installation site on the floor, we put stops up to 10 mm thick (after the glue hardens, the lining is pulled out and a deformation gap is formed between the drywall and the floor).
2. We start the sheet inclined from the top from the wall by the stretched orienting thread and gradually completely lean the drywall against the wall.
3. If the sheet to be installed has even slightly adhered to the glue, it will not fall, so you can release it and analyze the position and possible actions to correct it.
4. We begin to gradually press the drywall into the glue. First, we set the bottom along the thread, then, under constant control of the level and the rules, we seat the entire sheet in the intended place. The drywall is moved to the base surface with blows of the palm or a rubber hammer.
5. Pressing drywall? it is important not to overdo it. It is problematic to return the areas planted deeper than they should be. Often for this you have to "rip off" the entire sheet and expose it again.
6. In the same sequence, the next GCR is installed next. It is important here to control the formation of a beautiful seam between the sheets and their location in the same plane.

The rest of the walls are also closed, after which further finishing is performed on the surface, which is no different from that on drywall, which was fixed on a frame made of profiles.

Installation on polyurethane foam - simple and fast

Polyurethane foam is a versatile construction adhesive and sealant. The polyurethane material adheres reliably to almost all surfaces. This property of construction foam is sometimes used for local installation of gypsum board. How to fix drywall to a wall without profiles using polyurethane foam?

It is necessary to apply foam on a piece of sheet material cut out to size in strips or pointwise (taking into account the space left for its expansion) and tightly adhere to the base surface. The desired position of the plasterboard fragment is regulated by dowel screws or self-tapping screws. They will not allow the drywall to move under the pressure of the expanding polyurethane. After 2-3 hours, the plasterboard is securely fixed and ready for subsequent finishing.