Compressor from the refrigerator with your own. Do-it-yourself compressors from the refrigerator - an algorithm of actions and everything about home-made compressors

An additional advantage is that such a device can be used at home, because it makes little noise. In fact, this is the same refrigerator, only without unnecessary body parts.
Compressors recommended for order are presented below:

Description and characteristics

CALIBER KMK-800/9

Compressor type - oil piston

Engine type - electric

Power - 800 W

Max. compressor capacity - 110 l / min

Min. pressure - 0.2 bar

Max. pressure - 8 bar

Receiver volume - 9 l

Drive (type) - direct

With the help of improvised tools and a standard set of household tools, any householder can assemble a homemade air compressor from the refrigerator. The field of application of such an apparatus is wide enough and justifies the expenditure of manpower and resources for its manufacture:

• Air compressor for airbrushing and painting.
• Electric pump for inflating car tires.
• Power source for pneumatic tools.
• Air pump for purging complex mechanisms during their repair.

Homemade air compressor from the refrigerator

The range of possibilities, power, durability and reliability of a home-made compressed air generation system, assembled on the basis of a compressor from an old refrigerator, depends on the correct design and installation of its elements.

Compressor selection problem

Compressor from an old refrigerator

The assembly of a functional and reliable device begins with the selection of its main part - the compressor. It is available in any household refrigerator, serves as a pump for pumping refrigerant and is a single unit in a sealed metal shell, from the outside of which a relay is attached to start it. Any similar motor in good working order is suitable for solving the problem. Further selection and configuration of all additional structural elements is determined by the shape and characteristics of a particular device.

Compressor search

If you do not have an old and unnecessary refrigerator at hand, then there is always the opportunity to purchase a dismantled unit on the market for used tools and spare parts. There you can buy a workable version for 100-150 rubles.

Dismantling the compressor with your own hands from the refrigerator

Dismantling the compressor with your own hands from the refrigerator

Removing the device from the refrigerator can be done with ordinary wrenches and screwdrivers. It is better to bite the air supply and outlet pipes, and not saw off, so as not to clog the mechanics of the apparatus. The standard start relay is also dismantled.

Features of refrigerators and their compressors

The capabilities and characteristics of the compressor chosen as the basis for the future compressed air supply mechanism should be taken into account. There are the following options:

• The simplest solution is linear motors.
• Inverter motors.

Both options are suitable for work, but their features should be taken into account. Linear machines are designed for constant working speed. Therefore, they are better suited for creating a compressor apparatus. Converter versions are designed for variable speed, which must be reduced depending on the signal from the temperature sensor.

Functional check

Checking the performance of the compressor from the refrigerator

In order to check the unit's performance, you should first ring it with an electronic resistance meter, and then connect it to the network:

• Each input pin is checked. Usually there are 3 of them on the block, configured for a standard relay connector.
• Contact with maximum resistance refers to the motor starting mechanism (approximately 20-40 ohms)
• Contact with a resistance of 10-15 ohms refers to the winding providing the operating mode (the wire on its winding is thicker).
• The third contact is phase contact.

For a test connection, voltage is applied to the working and phase contacts, after which the working and start contacts are briefly closed. The device should create a stable tone of sound when turned on, and an air flow should come out of the output tube.

Compressor station layout development

Preparation of equipment for a homemade compressor station

When developing a compressor station diagram and compiling a list of additional equipment for it, the planned area of ​​application should be taken into account. The larger the receiver and the pressure in it, the wider the possibilities for homemade products will be. The standard scheme includes the following parts and mechanisms:

• Electronic pressure sensor. It turns off the engine when the set pressure parameters in the receiver are reached.
• Pressure gauge for measuring the degree of air compression.
• Safety valve.
• Air dryer exiting the receiver.
• Air filter for installation on the inlet pipe of the compressor block.
• Filter for cleaning the air jet under pressure from oil.
• Switch button.
• Wires, high pressure hoses and fittings with the required configuration.
• High pressure cylinder for receiver.
• A ball valve that cuts off the air supply to the consumer at the outlet from the system.

Equipment acquisition methods

An old refrigerator compressor can be bought inexpensively in the used tool market

Most compressor station parts are easiest to buy at a plumbing store. There are specialized sites where all parts, without exception, can be ordered in a few clicks. Much less expensive equipment can be obtained from the used tool market. It is permissible to use cheap fuel filters, but with the help of a conventional fitting and a metal sponge for washing dishes, you can quickly make a more reliable filter for coarse air purification from oil, which is installed on the outlet pipe of the engine block.

Receiver problem

Homemade welded receiver

Cylinders for homemade compressor equipment cannot be found on sale. For this purpose, cylinders of various purposes and capacities are being converted under the receiver:

• Propane and methane cylinders.
• Fire extinguishers.
• Cylinders for storing compressed air, carbon dioxide, oxygen and others.
• Homemade welded structures.

Attention: When using self-made enclosures for the receiver, you must take into account the degree of risk and explosion hazard of such a device.

The simplest option is a medium diameter steel pipe with sealed plugs. The receiver housing must contain at least 3 pass-through nodes:

• Compressed air inlet from the compressor.
• Outlet.
• The condensate drain unit from the cylinder, which should be located at the lowest point.

When using steel cylinders, the inlet and outlet pipes are welded by welding. The enclosure must withstand more than 10 atmospheres.

Preparation and connection of the compressor from the refrigerator for use in the compressor installation

When connecting the compressor unit, you can leave the same circuit as it was originally provided - through the start relay. The pressure sensor wires can be connected to this relay, which will interrupt the circuit after reaching the calculated pressure parameters in the receiver. Additional amenities include equipping the entire system with a pushbutton switch and LED operation indicator. Before connecting to the block, you can change the oil. The old oil is designed to work with freon. A special compressor oil for operation in air will protect the electric motor from overheating and premature failure.

Installing the air filter on the air intake

Installing a fuel filter on the compressor inlet pipe from the refrigerator to clean the air flow

To fit on the inlet tube of an air filter, the simplest option of which is a plastic fuel filter, you can use either a soft rubber hose or a metal elbow fitting with a threaded connection. The connecting soft tube, stretched over the plastic tip of the filter and the copper inlet, is easiest to crimp with a metal tightening clamp.

Installation of oil cleaning device

The air jet from the unit contains a significant amount of oil, which can be filtered out with a homemade cutter. In its housing, a drainage hole with a tap should be provided through which it can be cleaned. It is allowed to install a cooling coil made of a metal tube between the oil cutter and the compressor block.

Line with measuring and control equipment

Preparation for the assembly of the line with instrumentation for the compressor station

It is easiest to place all control and measuring devices on one line. This will require regular metal tees from a plumbing store. On a single platform, there is a sensor for turning off the system when the operating pressure is reached, a pressure gauge, a device for cleaning air from condensate accumulating in the receiver and a safety valve, with which you can quickly discharge excess air from the cylinder. A control ball valve can be located at the outlet of the line. The main unit is connected to the storage tank either through its standard inlet, or using a homemade inlet on its body.

Instrumentation connection problem

If the diameters of the installation instrumentation do not correspond to the size of the available fitting, then in this case all the devices can be mounted using plugs in which holes of the required size are drilled and the threads are cut with the appropriate pitch. Threaded connections are sealed with fum tape.

High pressure rubber tubing problem

Thick-walled oxygen hoses are one of the most readily available materials for connecting all parts of a compressor apparatus. But it should be borne in mind that the air stream when leaving the engine compartment will contain a large amount of oil that destroys rubber. For this reason, it is preferable to use metal (copper or steel) tubing.

Serving a compressor from a DIY refrigerator

Maintenance of a home-made compressor station should be carried out taking into account the peculiarities of its configuration. The operability and tightness of all units should be periodically checked. Violation of the tightness of the locking devices is easy to detect if a pressure measuring device is installed, which will immediately show its rapid loss. The performance of the pressure sensor can be easily monitored using a pressure gauge, the readings of which can be recorded at the time of a regular shutdown of the system after filling the air reservoir. You should also regularly drain condensate and oil from filters and cylinders.

Compressors have recently gained popularity among DIY enthusiasts. They are made on the basis of almost any engine, calculating the power of the base unit depending on the number of consumers. For home workshops, home-made compressor units, made by hand, are in demand.
Refrigerator compressors often remain operational after a breakdown or obsolescence of the refrigerator itself. They are weak, but unpretentious in work. And many of them make quite decent homemade installations. Let's and we'll see how you can do it yourself.

Parts and materials

• 11 kg propane cylinder;
• 1/2 ”Female Thread Coupling with Plug;
• Metal plates, width - 3-4 cm, thickness - 2-4 mm;
• Two wheels with a mounting platform;
• Refrigeration compressor from the refrigerator;
• 1/4 inch adapter;
• Brass check valve connector;
• Copper pipe connector ¼ "- 2 pcs;
• Compressor pressure control equipment;
• Bolts, screws, nuts, fumlenta.

• Welding inverter;
• Screwdriver or drill;
• Titanium coated metal cutters;
• Turbine or drill with abrasive nozzles;
• Metal brush;
• Roller for copper pipes;
• Adjustable wrenches, pliers.

  We collect the compressor

  Step one - preparing the receiver

  Rinse the empty LPG bottle thoroughly with water. It is very important to remove all residues of an explosive gas mixture in this way.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  In the end hole of the cylinder we overlap the adapter by 1/4 inch. We weld it on all sides with welding, and plug it with a screw.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  We put the receiver on wheels and support. To do this, we take pieces of metal plates, bend them at an angle and weld them onto the body from the bottom side. We weld wheels with a mounting platform to the corners. In the front part of the receiver we mount a support bracket.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  Step two - mount the compressor

  On top of the receiver, we expose the mounting frames for the compressor made of metal plates. We check their position with a bubble level, and scald. We put the compressor on the hold-down bolts through rubber shock-absorbing gaskets. For this type of compressor, only one branch will be involved, through which air is pumped into the receiver. The other two, sucking in air, will remain intact.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  Step three - fix the check valve and adapter to the equipment

  We choose a cutter for metal that is suitable in diameter, and we make a hole in the body for the coupling with a screwdriver or drill. If there are protruding shapes on the body of the coupling, we grind them with a drill (you can use a regular electric grinder or a grinder with a grinding disc for this).
  

  

  
  

  

  
  We put the sleeve in the hole and scald it around the circumference. Its internal thread must match the pitch and diameter of the seating thread on the check valve.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  We use brass check valve for small compressors. We plug the outlet for the release of pressure with a suitable bolt, since a drain valve is already provided on the control assembly.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  To install a pressure switch or a pressure switch with all control equipment, we mount another 1/4 inch adapter. We make a hole for it in the center of the receiver, not far from the compressor.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  We twist the check valve with an adapter 1/2 inch.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  We connect the outlet of the compressor cylinder and the check valve with a copper pipe. To do this, we flare the ends of the copper pipes with a special tool, and connect them with brass threaded adapters. We tighten the connection with adjustable wrenches.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  Step four - install the control equipment

  The assembly of the control equipment consists of a pressure switch (pressure switch) with a control sensor, a safety valve or pressure relief valve, an adapter-coupling with an external thread and several taps and pressure gauges.
  

  

  
  First of all, we mount the pressure switch. It must be raised slightly to the level of the compressor. We use an extension sleeve with an external thread, and screw the relay through a sealing fumule.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  We install a pressure regulation sensor with manometers through the adapter. We complete the assembly with a pressure relief valve and two taps for the hose outlets.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  Step five - connect the electrics

  Using a screwdriver, disassemble the pressure switch housing, opening access to the contacts. We bring a 3-core cable to the contact group, and distribute each of the wires according to the connection diagram (including grounding).
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  In the same way, we make the supply cable connection, equipped with a plug for a power outlet. We screw the relay cover back to its place.
  

  

  
  

  

  Step six - revision and test run

  To carry the compressor unit, we attach a special handle to the compressor frames. We make it from scraps of a profile square and round pipe. We attach it to the hold-down bolts and paint it in the color of the compressor.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  We connect the unit to a 220 V network and check its performance. According to the author, to obtain a pressure of 90 psi or 6 atm, this compressor needs 10 minutes. With the help of a control sensor, the activation of the compressor after a drop in pressure is also controlled from a certain value displayed on the pressure gauge. In his case, the author set up the installation so that the compressor would turn on again from 60 psi or 4 atm.
  

  

  
  

  

  
  

  

  
  The last operation remains - an oil change. This is an important part of the maintenance of such installations, because they do not provide an inspection window. And without oil, such machines can work for a very short time.
  We unscrew the drain bolt at the bottom of the compressor, and pour the mining into the bottle. Turning the compressor on its side, fill in some clean oil, and screw the cap back on. Now everything is in order, you can use our compressor unit!
  

  

an article about using an old compressor from a refrigerator for use in an airbrush.

So chapter one: mining.
Usually, in our latitudes, the habitat of wild or feral compressors is quite small, although exceptions do occur. Most often they can be found near trash bins in the courtyards of houses or in basements where all rubbish is stored. Usually they are tightly bolted to a large white box, which the common people call a refrigerator and store beer in it. Hunting a wild compressor with your bare hands will not work, you just won't be given it. In the meantime, you run after weapons, a wild compressor may well become a home, but already a stranger.

You must have a special set of weapons with you - pliers, flat screwdrivers and a cross, 2 keys for 12X14. If you find a large white box, you need to carefully examine it, usually the compressor is hidden in its lower part at the back. If the compressor is found and you have the necessary set of weapons, you can start mining.

Extraction of a compressor is a simple process, but you need to approach it carefully and carefully, otherwise there may be problems later. The first thing to do is to bite off the copper tubes that go to the cooling grate with pliers or side cutters, with an allowance of at least 10 cm, or better - to the maximum, then the extra tubes will come in handy (on some types of compressors, a metal plate with embossed numbers is fixed on the tubes - don't throw it away, it might come in handy too). And the pipes must be bitten off! In no case should you cut, the shavings will definitely get inside, then your compressor can get very sick and die. When biting off, the tubes will flatten, you can not be afraid of this, and it will help you not to splash with oil during transportation.

At this stage, I can recommend pouring a drop of oil from the compressor onto a piece of clean paper and looking at it for metal particles. If you notice specks of silver in the oil, you can not continue further, and honor the bright memory of the lost unit with a minute of silence.

The second and most important thing is that the compressor consists not only of a piece of iron, it has another and very important organ - a starting relay. The relay looks like a small black (sometimes white) box, separately screwed with screws next to the compressor, wiring goes into and out of it. It is necessary to carefully unscrew the relay from the refrigerator, and in the same way carefully disconnect the connector that goes from the relay to the compressor carcass (this applies to old pots, for other types of compressors the relay may be non-removable). The incoming 2 wires will most likely have to be bitten off, they still do not go straight to the plug. There is one more important point - you need to remember or mark in which position the relay was screwed on, where the top and bottom are, it happens and is signed, but not always. Why it is important - more on that below.

And finally, the third - using 2 keys for 12, we unscrew the compressor carcass from the refrigerator. It is usually bolted with 4 bolts and nuts through rubber grommets. It is advisable to take this whole set of fasteners and rubber bands with you, it may come in handy in the subsequent preparation for work.

Chapter two: preparation (domestication).

So, you just got your compressor, smeared with mud and oil, with your hands scratched and stretched to your knees, tired but satisfied, you finally reached his house. Now you can start preparing the compressor for operation. The first thing to do is a test run. We put the relay connector on the contacts in the compressor housing. We orient and temporarily fix the relay on a horizontal surface, you can even stick it with tape. The main thing is to fix the relay as it was in the refrigerator, it works on a trailer of gravity and heating the plates. If you orient it incorrectly, or just throw it on the weight, it will not work correctly, and this can end fatally both for the relay and for the compressor motor windings.

Carefully and with the help of electrical tape, we fasten a temporary wire with a plug to the wires entering the relay. I strongly recommend wrapping the place of twisting with electrical tape, your safety and life depends on it. There are so few modellers, let's cherish them and ourselves. The flattened tubes must be squeezed with pliers, they will disperse to the sides and free the passage of air.

When everything is ready and secured, you can plug the plug into the outlet. This is usually accompanied by a slight sparking and popping, but the load is still considerable. If everything is in order, the compressor should turn on and rumble quietly. Air should come from the tube, you need to mark which of them is "inhale" and which is "exhale". You don't need to drive for a long time, the main thing is to make sure that the assembly is working properly. If it is not in order and the compressor does not start, or it starts up and turns off after a while, this is not good enough. For a small survey, you need to be friends with an electrical engineer and a tester. If you are not friends with these things, I do not recommend poking around further.

Well, if you are friends or have an idea, we will continue. It is necessary to remove the relay connector from the compressor and ring the motor windings. They should ring with little resistance among themselves in any combination. If one of the windings does not ring, we are holding the body of the dead unit in our hands. If you call, then you need to inspect and clean the relay. Carefully open the box, and clean the contacts with fine sandpaper. The main thing is not to bend or break them off, you don't need to rub much either.

Then we put everything back together, fix it as expected and try to turn it on again. If it does not start again or turns off - alas, no luck ... (This is provided that the relay is native and came with this compressor. An emergency shutdown can also occur due to the fact that the motor is more powerful than the one for which the relay is designed, then you will have to look for another relay, and a sign on the tube will help with this.) However, let's not talk about sad things, we hope that everything worked.

Now you have to assemble your unit into a more adaptable and compact device. Of course, I do not pretend to be true, everyone has their own capabilities and means to achieve this goal, but I will outline my approach to assembling the entire device. To do this, you need to visit the nearest auto parts store, car market or stall with spare parts. There you need to purchase:
A liter of engine oil for replacement, 10w40 or other mineral or semi-synthetic. usually a liter is the minimum container, but if you're lucky - it can be draft, 500 grams is enough. At worst, you can lubricate all the squeaky hinges in the house.
A rubber reinforced oil-and-petrol resistant tube, about a meter long and 4mm internal diameter. It is not bad to have a piece of copper tube from the compressor with you, you can try on the necessary rubber tube to it.
Metal clamping clamps, 6 pieces. They must be tried on with a freshly purchased rubber tube. They should be slightly larger in diameter.
PVC tube for glass washers. They are translucent, there are also reinforced ones, but we do not need them. The length must be chosen depending on the location of the compressor and the comfort of work, but not less than 2 meters.
2 fine filters - one for gasoline, the other for diesel fuel. Visually different - for gasoline there is a paper accordion inside, for diesel there is a synthetic mesh inside.
A tube of oil and petrol resistant silicone sealant, better thick and gray, thinner and black worse.

After purchasing all this, you need to direct your steps to the nearest hardware store. In it you must purchase:
Cord with a plug at the end, for powering the compressor into the network. At least 1.5 meters long, preferably double-insulated.
One-button light switch in a closed housing, for external mounting.
Furniture screws for wood 3.5 x 16 or 3x16.

Now all this heap needs to be combined together, and we will get the coveted unit.

The first and most important preparation point on which the further operation and durability of the compressor depends is the oil change. A lot of copies were broken on this occasion, it is necessary to change, it is not necessary, which oil to pour and which not.

There may be many opinions, but the correct one is mine! So that there are no empty questions like "and it works well for me on sunflower!", I will write down my point of view at this point.

At the factory, the compressor is filled with clean "spindle" (freon, compressor - as it was not called) oil. In fact, it is mineral. It does not contain any additives, because the compressor in the refrigerator works in a closed and airless (oxygen-free) space, and is not exposed to any influence of the external environment. When we start to use it for our purposes, the situation changes dramatically. Oxygen of the air, micro-particles of dust, moisture, etc. begins to affect the oil. Mineral oil clogs up and oxidizes rather quickly, loses its properties. This leads to strong heating of the compressor during operation, noise, wear of the piston system and, ultimately, to seizure.And this despite the fact that there was enough oil.Moreover, due to the small binding and wetting properties of mineral oil, it will intensively fly to the exit, clogging air vapor and reducing the operating level in the compressor.

Automotive (motor) oil is free from most of these problems, primarily due to the content of additives in it, which compensate or completely eliminate bad factors affecting the quality and durability of the oil. Moreover, it is designed for much more severe operating conditions than those that will be in your compressor. For example, I use motor semi-synthetics 10w40, because it remains after changing the oil in my car. You can use both mineral and semi-synthetic oil with other indices, but I do not recommend using synthetic oils. Firstly, they are much more expensive, and secondly, they are more liquid and less durable.

I hope I wrote it convincingly, although of course there will be unbelievers who will stubbornly fill in any oil they can get their hands on, well, and a flag to them.

Let's return to our iron friend. Here a certain technical point arises, namely, what type of compressor fell into your hands. Visually, they are divided into 2 main types - a cylinder and a pot (reminiscent of a night vase covered with a convex lid). The first is an almost extinct species, used in very old types of refrigerators, ceased to be produced in the late 70s. But if you managed to get this type of compressor alive - you are very lucky. They can give much more pressure at the outlet than others. Most often, it is the second type of compressors that falls into the hands - pots.

The main difference for us at this stage is where to change the oil. In the cylinders, a huge bolt is most often screwed on the side of the body, it closes the filler neck. You need to unscrew it with a wrench, drain the old oil from the compressor into some disposable container. It is advisable to measure how much of this oil was. Depending on the type of cylinder, it is necessary to fill in from 300 to 500 grams of oil in them. Then carefully screw the bolt back, preferably smearing it with oil and petrol resistant sealant.

The pot is a little more complicated. 3 tubes usually stick out of it - inhalation, exhalation and a sealed filler tube. It is advisable to change the oil through it. To do this, we need to open this tube, you can cut it a little with a needle file in a circle below the flattened place, but in no case cut through. Then, along the incision, the tube must be broken and completely broken off, swinging to the sides. The burr formed along the edge must be lightly hammered with a hammer. Then simply drain the oil from the pot by tilting it towards the tubes into any disposable container. Remember - after draining the oil, never turn on the compressor!

You will have to fill the compressor with a syringe, gradually pouring oil into the filler tube, you can put on a rubber tube in the form of an impromptu funnel. Oil in a pot requires about 250-350 grams. After refueling, the tube must be muffled, otherwise the air will leave through it (or vice versa - enter past the filter, depending on the type of compressor). You can, of course, flatten it, but this is not convenient, because then the oil will have to be changed. I recommend screwing in a small self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, under the head of which there will be a rubber washer-washer.

As is the case with oil, there are desperate or lazy comrades who will try to feed the compressor with oil on the go, adding it to the suction tube - I highly recommend not doing this. Firstly, it is advisable to change the oil all at once, and turning on the compressor with the drained oil means killing it. Secondly, there is such a phenomenon in piston devices - water hammer. This is when liquid enters the space above the piston, in a volume larger than the volume of the compression chamber allows. Fluids, as we know, are hardly compressed, and the compressor motor will try to do this. As a result, we can get the destruction of the piston system. I hope that I have convinced of this too.

And so we will continue. Now we will put everything in a heap, according to the given scheme.

This scheme is intended for single-action airbrushes, such as our beloved "Eton" - aka Belarusian, or double-action airbrushes converted to single action.

You can, of course, put it all together and leave it hanging, but this structure will constantly break and fall apart. I think if you spend a little effort and combine everything on a platform or in a case, it will be more reliable and will bring more pleasure from work. I do not pretend to be standardized, but my type of assembly absolutely does not require the use of machines, welding or special tools. All materials are also available, and their cost is low. For the simplest and most reliable result, you can assemble the structure on a sheet of plywood or chipboard. The dimensions of this sheet mainly depend on the type of receiver selected or obtained. The receiver is needed for at least two functions - it smooths out the pulsations of air pressure, which are inevitable during compressor operation, and serves as a trap for vapors and oil droplets. For inexpensive single-action airbrushes, which include the widespread "Eton" - aka Belarusian, a large-capacity receiver is not needed at all, a volume of about 1-2 liters is enough.

As practice shows, almost any hermetically sealed containers are used as a receiver - from plastic bottles for drinks and beer to industrial receivers from trucks and equipment. In my opinion, it is somewhat unsafe to use plastic bottles, and even more so glass bottles, these materials do not have good mechanical strength, and even a slight pressure in the receiver can rupture it if damaged and cause injury. You can, of course, use such things as a balloon from a fire extinguisher, but this somewhat enlarges and makes the whole structure heavier.

The most optimal containers for the receiver are small food cans for water made of translucent white polyethylene, or, as in my example, an expansion tank from a Zhiguli. The polyethylene from which these containers are made is rather thick and viscous, is not afraid of mechanical damage from falling small objects and retains its properties for a long time. Even if a rupture does occur, it does not produce fragments or scraps of material. For those who do not want to use such materials under pressure, I can advise you to take a closer look at small welded metal fuel cans with a volume of 5 liters.

It is quite simple to adapt a canister or tank for a receiver - you need to take 2 tubes, for example copper, cut off from the compressor, each about 15 cm long. Remember to leave at least 10 cm long tubing on the compressor. In the lid of the canister, 2 holes are drilled into which these tubes should fit tightly. Then, from the inside of the lid, the place of entry of the tubes is filled with epoxy resin, it is not necessary to completely fill it, you need to leave more space for screwing the neck. When everything dries up, you need to lubricate the neck and plug with sealant and tighten tightly. At this point, it is important to place the tubes correctly - their ends should not be close, and the outgoing tube should be higher than the incoming one (as in the diagram).

Now that everything is ready, you can figure out what size a sheet of plywood is needed. It is not worth assembling very tightly, it will be more difficult to maintain, and the compressor should also have some space around it for blowing air and cooling. In my case, a piece of 30x40 cm was enough. Plywood should be taken with a thickness of at least 9 mm, a fiberboard sheet - 15 mm. Trimming corners and processing with coarse sandpaper - this already tastes. But splinters in the fingers will not give pleasure.

At the corners of the sheet on its future lower part, it is necessary to fix the legs, rubber or, for example, corks from plastic bottles, with screws (a good reason to take 4 "polish" beer). The main thing is not to screw it through to the floor or table with screws. The legs are necessary to reduce the noise during operation of the compressor, prevent it from "crawling" from the place, and it is also unpleasant to scratch the floor.

Next, 4 holes are drilled for mounting the compressor, I hope you did not forget to take the bolts with you? Perhaps, when using a thick sheet of plywood or chipboard, the length of the standard bolts may not be enough, then you will have to buy longer ones, complete with nuts, in a hardware or auto store.

The hardest part is fixing the receiver. It must be installed first, so that the other parts of the unit do not interfere later. It is not worth poking through the receiver with fasteners, you need a creative approach - for example, use a rubber tube or strip, durable fabric or leather, perforated tape for packing heavy loads, etc. One edge of the fastening tape is screwed to the plywood, thrown over the receiver and screwed with an interference fit on the other side.

The compressor is secured with bolts, preferably with pipes, to the edge of the plywood sheet, so it will be easier to change the oil in the future. When screwing in, it is advisable to lubricate the thread of the bolts with a sealant, so they will not subsequently loosen due to vibrations. Next to it, screw the starting relay with screws, orienting it correctly. Next is a light switch, we connect a relay and a power cord to its contacts. It is advisable to fix the cord itself with a clamp or a loop to a sheet of plywood, so it will not break out of the switch.

When the electrical part is finished, we proceed to the installation of the rest of the pneumatic system. At the compressor inlet, using a piece of rubber tube and 2 clamps, we fix a fine filter for gasoline. Perhaps this part will seem superfluous to someone, but it's not expensive, and all kinds of dust will not get inside the compressor, then it will no longer be removed from there. The main thing for all subsequent operations is not to fill this filter with oil, it will lose its properties from this. Next, with a piece of rubber tube and 2 clamps, we connect the compressor outlet to the receiver inlet. You must act carefully so as not to break the tubes out of the lid. We also pull a rubber tube with 2 clamps to the receiver outlet, fix the diesel filter. This filter can be filled with silica gel, then it will perform 2 functions - a moisture trap and an adapter for fixing rubber and PVC tubes. You can, of course, do without it, pull the PVC tube directly onto the receiver outlet, but such a connection will not be completely sealed and strong, the hose will break off from a smooth copper tube.

PVC tubing is usually smaller in diameter than the fitting of the filter and airbrush, does not stretch very well, and is rather difficult to fit. There is a little trick for this - the tip of the tube is immersed in solvent 647 for a few minutes. Shallow, not more than 5 mm, otherwise it will be too flexible, and there will be no support for pushing it onto the fitting. It is advisable to fix the filter and PVC tube on a sheet of plywood, so it will not dangle and loosen the receiver tubes.

Well, that's practically all. You can turn on, listen to the hiss of the air. Just don't rush into work right away if you used silicone sealant - it needs to dry out for a couple of days.

Chapter three: exploitation.
There is nothing complicated here. The main thing during the operation of the compressor is to prevent it from overheating. Typically, the compressor heats up to a temperature of 40-45C for 25-30 minutes of continuous operation. It is not worth working longer, this may already have a bad effect on its resource and the quality of work.

During further operation, it may be necessary to adjust the air pressure. For example, some types of compressors can produce much more air than is needed for an airbrush, or this is due to painting moments. In this case, the compressor will create unnecessarily high pressure in the pipes, filters and receiver, and it will itself work with overload and quickly heat up. In this case, we need a reducer. The most important thing is that the reducer in this system must be installed at the INLET of the compressor, if it will be installed at the outlet - this will also cause overload of the compressor and its rapid heating.

By installing a reducer at the inlet, we limit the amount of air passing through the compressor, thereby also regulating the pressure. The simplest and most affordable reducer are calibrated tubes, which can be attached to the filter inlet through a rubber tube, for example, from fountain pens, or thick needles from syringes. You can drill yourself with different drills. Or you can visit your nearest pet store, in the aquarium supplies you can find very suitable small faucets and reducers. And according to the landing diameters, they just cost a penny. Unlike calibrated tubes, they will allow you to regulate the pressure within certain limits during operation.

Chapter four: service.

Compressor maintenance is not difficult, although some parts will have to be removed. You can, of course, not service the unit at all, but believe me - it will respond in kind.

The service includes:
Change of oil.
Replacing filters.
Draining the accumulated oil from the receiver.

Oil, no matter how good it is, still loses its properties over time and becomes dirty. In the compressor, regardless of the mode and the amount of time it has been in operation, it is advisable to change the oil at least once a year.

To do this, it is necessary to remove all the tubes from it, unscrew the screw plug from the filling tube, and tilt the compressor to pour out all the oil from it. Remember - after that you can not turn it on in any case! Further, as with the first oil change, fill in the required amount of oil with a syringe. While the tubes are removed, you can at the same time remove the old filters, pour out the accumulated oil from the receiver. Do not pour this oil back into the compressor.

Then install all the new filters in place, return the tubes back to the compressor. Metal clamps help well with this, they allow you to repeatedly carry out such operations.

Well, that seems to be all, good work. I think the additional questions that have arisen can be resolved on the forum.

When a refrigerator breaks down, a person prefers to immediately send it to a landfill and purchase a new unit for freezing food. The compressor from the refrigerator should still be left, because this part of a household appliance can be very useful to a person. You can use a compressor from a refrigerator to inflate tires, to pump out water, and even in airbrushing, this tool will come in handy. But before talking about the nuances of using the unit, it still needs to be obtained. To do this, you need to find a unit that looks like a large black pot at the bottom of the refrigerator. Next, you should unscrew the bolts and nuts, with which the part is attached to the refrigerator itself. Using a hacksaw, the compressor must be sawed off from the refrigerator radiator. Now all that remains is to test the functionality of the compressor. To do this, it is connected to the network, and if the part begins to emit characteristic sounds, then it is working.

The extracted compressor from the refrigerator can be used to repair other large household appliances. So, for example, if a person's compressor on another refrigerator fails, the part can be safely replaced and continue using the technology. However, craftsmen often find completely different areas for using this unit. For example, very often a compressor is used in garages for pumping tires and pumping out oil. But just before you start using it, you will have to install a special receiver. The receiver itself is required in order for the unit to work normally and without interruption, without overloading the network. Also, this nuance should be observed so that during operation, the compressor does not spray oil. The receiver should be fixed on the compressor pipes, additionally checking the tightness of the connection. After that, you can proceed to the operation of the compressor for your own purposes.

The old refrigerator compressor finds its most widespread use in the garage. It was already mentioned above that the technique can be used to inflate tires, due to the fact that the compressor itself is capable of distilling air. To inflate the tires, the unit only needs to be plugged into an outlet and connected to the bus. That's just to pump up in this way no more than two tires will turn out, since the compressor from the refrigerator works quite slowly, but at the same time it can significantly overload the network. The compressor from the refrigerator has enough pressure to inflate car tires. To inflate a bicycle wheel, you can use, for example, an air conditioner part. Another use for a compressor in a garage is to pump out excess oil. Here it is required to unscrew the oil filter, and use a compressor to pump out the required amount of oil. The process itself usually takes no more than 2-3 minutes, but the oil level must be monitored all the time.

One of the most popular uses for an old compressor is for airbrushing purposes. The art of airbrushing involves the use of a special apparatus for drawing a picture within the framework of a special technique. The compressor will just become such a unit, and quite powerful. To assemble the airbrush, you will need an old compressor, a receiver, a rubber tube, fine filters, a PVC tube, fastening clamps and furniture screws. Before starting the assembly of the airbrush, it is necessary to replace the oil in the compressor with a simple automobile, as this will positively affect the operation of the equipment. Next, you should connect the receiver, connect the start relay and the filling pipe to the compressor. The gasoline filter should be fixed on the compressor itself, the diesel filter on the receiver. By connecting the entire structure using the existing pipes, you can connect the airbrush to the network and use it to create original drawings.

The old compressor can also be effectively used for pumping water from the water supply system. For example, when replacing or repairing a water supply system, it is often difficult to pump out all the liquid from the pipes, and this complicates all further actions. That is why experts recommend using a compressor. To create a water pumping system, you will need a simple glass bottle, two suction tubes and liquid in a special container. One suction tube must be connected to the compressor, leaving the other end in the bottle. After that, it is recommended to close the bottle itself in order to create a vacuum. The second tube should also be taken into the bottle, and the end should be left in a container of water. In fact, the unit for pumping water is ready, and you can start using it. With the help of another hole on the compressor, you can safely pump out liquid from the water supply system, making the repair process much easier for yourself.

All of the above methods of using the compressor are real, but, of course, they should only be used with special technical knowledge. If the person himself has a poor idea of ​​what a compressor looks like, and how to create a unit for inflating tires from it, then it is better not to tackle this part of the refrigerator. On the Internet, you can find many instructions for converting a compressor for a variety of purposes, and here it is very important to consider the scope of the unit. Also, when working with it, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, monitoring and the fact that the network is not under too much voltage. An old and rusty compressor can serve a person for a long time. That is why, if the owner of the refrigerator does not plan to use it, it is better to immediately hand over the equipment for disposal, where the old compressor will certainly find its use in various fields.