How to make milk of lime for clematis. How to feed the regal clematis

It is widespread on almost all continents. Clematis blooms from late spring to late summer, and some species - before the onset of frost.

Clematis is ideal for decorating a personal plot. Alas, not everyone knows how to properly feed and what exactly to fertilize this flower.

In this article you can find answers to your questions.

How to feed clematis

Clematis requires a lot of nutrients, due to the fact that it blooms for a long time, and also renews almost completely the entire aerial part of the plants every year. But it is important to remember that the concentration of mineral fertilizers should not be high - apply them in small portions.

Some experienced gardeners say: if you fertilized the soil well, then clematis should be fed only in the third year after planting.

Mineral and organic fertilizers must be alternated. Before fertilizing, clematis must be watered well.

Clematis are fed depending on the phase of plant development, but no more than 4 times per season.

In September, during preparation, add bone meal (200 g / m2) to the soil. The fact is that it contains phosphorus, which is very necessary for clematis.

Without it, the leaves will begin to turn brown, the roots and shoots will develop poorly.

You can also add up to 24 kg of humus under each clematis bush just before planting.

The plant needs nitrogen during its growth. Due to a lack of nitrogen, clematis shoots may decrease, the leaves turn yellow, acquire a reddish tint, the flowers will be small, with poor color. For this type of feeding, organic fertilizers are used: slurry (1:10), bird droppings (1:15).

Organic fertilizers should be alternated with mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, nitroammophoska or urea (15 g / 10 l).

Potassium will help your plant to flower beautifully. Blackened stalks and pedicels, lighter color of flowers indicate a lack of potassium. Use potassium nitrate in spring, potassium sulfate in August. Dilute 20 - 30 g in 10 liters.

During the flowering period, feeding is stopped. By feeding the plant during this period, you run the risk of shortening the flowering period.

Top dressing in spring

Top dressing in the spring is done no more than twice a month.

After the shoots regrowth, the time comes for the first feeding. For clematis during this period, foliar spraying with a weak solution of synthetic urea (up to 3 g per liter of water) is best suited.

It is best to spray in the evening or cloudy weather. The moisture will last longer and the fertilizer will be better absorbed.

In spring, clematis is watered with milk of lime to prevent soil acidification. Use 200 g of lime diluted in a liter of water per 1 sq. M.

For the prevention of the disease, you can dilute 50 g of copper sulfate and pour the solution on the bush at the base.

Water clematis in the spring no more than once a week, but try to get the water to the roots of the plant (clematis roots reach 1 m in length). Experienced gardeners use humus during watering.

Fertilizers for clematis

Before planting clematis, the soil can be fertilized with the organic-mineral preparation "Omu Universal", which will not only feed the plant, but also retain moisture inside the soil.

Mix the fertilizer itself with the soil and then cover the clematis roots with it.

During the transplantation of clematis, you can use the drug "Zircon", which will help the plant get used to the new habitat. It is only necessary to use this drug strictly according to the instructions.

To prevent diseases, spray the soil under the bush with foundation in early spring or late autumn (20 g per 10 L).

During the active development and growth of clematis, treat the soil under the bush with a fungicide. Use 3-4 liters per bush. This will protect the plant directly from the fungus. Carry out the procedure 2 - 3 times every 14 days.

The following preparations can be used as foliar feeding: "Master", "Avkarin", "Flower solution". Your plant will receive the necessary nutrients within 5 hours after spraying.

So, if you systematize everything that has been said above, then you can draw the following conclusions:

  • you can feed clematis no more than 4 times per season;
  • if when planting the plant you used special fertilizers for the soil, then you do not need to feed clematis this year;
  • there are different fertilizers for different phases of plant development. They can either be purchased in a store or made yourself;
  • as a prophylaxis for various diseases in the store, you can buy special drugs.

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Clematis are quite unpretentious. They adapt to different climatic conditions and can withstand severe frosts and heat. But the root system of clematis does not like high humidity and overheating, so the soil around the roots must be mulched. For a spectacular flowering, clematis needs regular feeding.

Before boarding

Since clematis can grow in one place for a long time (more than thirty years), it is necessary to take care of their comfortable existence even before planting. A planting pit is especially carefully prepared for clematis.

Clematis receives the first fertilizers from it, as soon as it moves to a new "house". After laying the drainage (and the plant definitely needs drainage, since the roots of clematis do not tolerate decay), the planting pit is filled with peat and humus (2 buckets each). It is also worth adding a bucket of sand, 1/2 l of wood ash, 100 g of complex mineral fertilizer and superphosphate. Clematis prefer neutral, alkaline soil. Therefore, when planting, it is good to add 100 g of dolomite flour.

Five meals a day

In the first year after planting, clematis does not need to be fed. In the second year, the first feeding is carried out as soon as the branch shoots - in May. During the growing season, which is quite long for clematis - from May to October, the plant must be fed 5 times.

The first feeding - in May - is given with a solution of ammonium nitrate. You can dilute the fertilizer with water (2 g per 10 l), or you can simply sprinkle it around the bush and lightly embed 200 g of granular fertilizers in the soil.

The second feeding is done in 7-10 days. This time, clematis needs organic matter. Fresh manure cannot be used categorically. Such feeding will destroy the plant. Fertilize clematis for the second time with a weak infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings diluted with water 1:15.

If there are no organic fertilizers, you can replace them with fermented herb infusion (1:10) or prepare a urea solution (10 g per 10 L of water). Fertilizers that contain chlorine in their composition cannot be used for clematis.

The third top dressing is carried out 10-14 days later - with a complete complex fertilizer ("Kemira universal"). Prepare a solution - 1 tbsp. 10 liters of water. The next feeding is necessary for the plant during the budding period. It is carried out with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, according to the instructions on the package.

The fifth and last dressing is given after the end of mass flowering and clematis pruning - 1 tbsp. complex fertilizer for 10 liters of water. Throughout the season, the soil under the clematis is watered with milk of lime.

Thank her very much!

From the magazine "BULLETIN OF THE FLOWER", 2004, №4
Lyudmila Sedun, Moscow Flower Club

"CLEMATIS. SECRETS OF Bountiful Blossoming "

Spring has finally arrived! With anxiety and hope we drive to the garden. Of course, there are losses, but not everything is as bad as expected. And we begin to loosen, dig, cut, tie, rake needles, hoping to help our pets after the next winter.

The shelter from clematis must be removed gradually: first, spruce branches, leaves, peat or earth. If the soil thawed, it must be loosened to destroy the soil crust and provide air access to the roots. It is better to leave the lapnik and part of the peat until the positive night temperatures
Clematis, like all buttercups, begin their growing season early, usually at an average daily temperature above + 5C. By this time, it is necessary to carefully raise the shoots, examine them, remove the damaged and weak ones, and cut the healthy ones to live pairs of buds and distribute them on the support.
The sand around the neck must be removed, the bases of the shoots and the ground around the bushes must be treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or 1% Bordeaux liquid. Then pour a fresh layer of sand (2-3cm) mixed with ash and charcoal (1-2 glasses of ash and 1 liter can of crushed coal on a bucket of sand). If there is no sand, then pour ash and charcoal into the base of the bush and loosen the earth.
Usually, the growth of shoots in clematis begins in the first decade of May, if there are no significant deviations from the average weather conditions.
Do not rush to dig out the ground and check if clematis has started to grow - you can break a single, very fragile young shoot and lose the plant.
When the average daily temperature exceeds 10 * C, intensive growth of shoots begins, they grow by 7-10 cm per day. The leaves on the shoots have not yet unfolded, the petioles are small and cannot cling to the support. So that young shoots do not break, do not intertwine with each other and do not form dense plexuses, it is very important at this time to distribute them on a support and tie them firmly.
Night frosts below -5 * C can damage the tops of the shoots. Do not be upset, in this case, two new shoots are formed, but flowering is delayed by 10-14 days.
During the growing season, clematis must be fed at least 5 times. Do the first feeding at the end of April - beginning of May with a solution of ammonium saltite. Sprinkle (salt) 2 g per 10 liters of water or 1-2 handfuls of fertilizer around the bush, followed by embedding. Usually, a bucket of fertilizer solution is consumed for 1 - 5 plants, depending on the age and size of the bush, one bucket is used for a 5-10 year old bush.
The second feeding - after 7-10 days - it is advisable to make organic fertilizers: infusion of mullein (1:10), chicken droppings (1:15), infusion of fermented grass (1:10). If there are no organic fertilizers, then feed with a urea solution - 10 g per 10 liters of water.
The third top dressing - 10-14 days after the second - make a full complex fertilizer (ideally "Kemira Universal") - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. Try to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.
The fourth top dressing during the budding period is phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Remember, you cannot use fertilizers containing chlorine for clematis!
The fifth top dressing - after mass flowering and pruning (for clematis of the second group, more on this below) with full complex fertilizer - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.
During flowering, top dressing is not recommended, it will shorten the flowering time!
In the spring, between the second and third dressings, somewhere in the middle - end of May, it is useful to water clematis with milk of lime (100-150 g of slaked lime or crushed chalk per 10 liters of water).
Foliar dressing is effective: in spring - with a weak solution of urea (1 tbsp. Spoon for 20 liters of water), in summer - with full mineral fertilizer. Every year I do 3 foliar dressings not only for clematis, but also for genus and perennials: one - with a solution of trace elements (according to the instructions), two - with a solution of potassium permanganate (2-3 g) plus boric acid (1-2 g) per 10 liters of water ... The latter solution is also prophylactic against diseases.
At the end of summer, add 2-3 glasses of ash under each clematis bush.
Clematis love not only to eat but also to drink. In the middle lane, watering is sufficient once a week. If the summer is hot and dry, after 5 days. It is necessary to closely monitor the condition of the soil - clematis love normal moist soil. In waterlogged soils, the roots lack air (water and air in the soil are antagonists) and they cannot fully provide the plant with nutrients.
In the first year after planting, the watering depth should reach 40-50 cm, further 70-80 cm. In loose, rich soil, the roots of clematis penetrate to a depth of 8-100 cm, therefore, an adult plant requires from 30 liters to 50 liters of water.
It is recommended to first water the ground near the center of the bush, then along the periphery. Do not water the center of the bush, the base of the shoots and leaves!
Drip irrigation is most effective for clematis. It is advisable for watering and fertilizing to install perforated pipes during planting or to make vertical wells with a diameter of 10-15 cm, which are filled with gravel or crushed stone.
After watering or rain, it is advisable to loosen the soil. It is best to do this after 1-2 days when the soil is still wet. Loosening wet or dry soil is useless.
Good results are obtained by mulching the soil (stepping back 10 cm from the neck) with rotted manure or compost, sprinkled with peat on top - in this case, during watering or rain, the plants will receive adequate nutrition, and the soil does not dry out.
Pruning is an important agricultural technique when growing clematis. How it is made depends on the growth and development of the plant, the timing, duration and abundance of flowering.
How to prune clematis? It depends on the group they belong to.
The first pruning group includes Knyazhiki and mountain clematis, as well as their varieties. Plants in this group are grown without pruning. After flowering, remove weak and dead shoots and thin out dense, overgrown bushes.
The second pruning group is clematis from the Patens, Florida and Lanuginoza groups, which bloom in early summer (end of May, June) on the shoots of the last year and again - from July to September on the shoots of the current year. Pruning is also done twice. In the summer, after the first flowering, the faded part on the last year's shoot is removed or, if it is weak, it is completely cut out. In the fall, flower buds are laid on the shoots of the current year, so they are only shortened (weak pruning), leaving 10-15 nodes (1-1.5 m). Only diseased and damaged shoots are completely cut out. With strong autumn pruning of all shoots (up to 1-3 knots), the varieties of these groups bloom next year on current shoots at the end of July - in August and even in September. In some varieties it is weak, in others it may not be at all.
Some varieties of the Laneginosa group bloom profusely on the shoots of the current year from early July to autumn (Silmakivi, Kullus, etc.) Such varieties can be pruned in the fall, as clematos of the Jackmani and Vititsella groups, i.e. Do strong pruning.
Large-flowered clematis of the Jacquemann, Viticella and Integrifolia groups blooming on the shoots of the current year belong to the third pruning group. It is recommended to prune all the shoots to the base or to the first true leaf in the fall before smoking for the winter. I advise you to leave 4-6 pairs of buds on some of the shoots, and in the spring to cut them to a healthy pair of buds. From these buds, young shoots develop earlier than the main ones, and since flower buds are laid on a young growth of the current year, they bloom earlier by 1-2 weeks. You can pinch the tops of the current shoots, then instead of one, two shoots will develop, and the flowering will be delayed for 1-2 weeks. Thus, the timing of the flowering of clematis is regulated. If you do not cut off the shoots of clematis of these groups in the fall, then in the spring the young growth begins to develop from the upper pairs of buds, from about 10-15, and the lower part of the bush remains bare.
If you do not know which group the acquired variety belongs to, cut the shoots to different heights - one completely, others up to 10-15 knots. Such a combined pruning will allow you to establish on which shoots, last year or this year, and at what time the flowering begins. Do not forget that in the year of planting, clematis of all groups should be cut in the fall to the first true leaf.
After the autumn pruning, treat the bases of the shoots with 1% iron sulfate, it is advisable to remove the sand from the neck before that, and then replace it with a new one.
These are the basic rules for caring for clematis: feed abundantly, water on time and prune wisely. Do not feel sorry for the time spent. Clematis will more than thank you for your care

Clematis is one of the noblest and most beautiful perennial lianas. She is able to twist the entire site with her gorgeous flowering lashes, changing it beyond recognition. Clematis is good for decorating gazebos, arches, house walls, fences. Clematis is also called: "vine", "warthog", "grandfather's curls" and "clematis". In nature, there are about 300 species of clematis. Clematis are easy to care for and respond very gratefully to good care. Subject to proper agricultural practices, they are distinguished by colorful and long flowering, great resistance to disease. Today we will tell you how to feed clematis in the summer.

When to start feeding clematis

If the land was well filled with fertilizers before planting, then additional feeding begins only after two, or even three years. But when the soil is poor, it is necessary to sprinkle humus or well-rotted compost mixed with wood ash on the bases of the bushes in the first spring or autumn - 1 - 2 handfuls per bucket. This is especially true of young specimens, whose root system is not yet sufficiently developed. Over the summer, clematis grows a huge mass of shoots, leaves, and then flowers, so nutrition for them is in the first place. You need to feed these vines twice a month, in small portions. And the fertilizer must be in liquid form!

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How to determine if clematis lacks fertilizer

If you look closely at the flower, it is easy to independently select the type of fertilizer that is necessary for the flower:

  • in clematis, young shoots have decreased, the leaves have acquired a yellowish color, and the flowers have become much smaller - it needs fertilizing, which is based on nitrogen. To do this, you can use rotted poultry droppings diluted with water or manure from cows;
  • the plant has a peduncle that has become dark, and the color of the flowers has become much lighter - the plantings need potash fertilizers. With the onset of spring, such top dressing may consist of potassium nitrate, and at the end of summer it is recommended to feed clematis with potassium sulfate. To obtain the nutrient composition, you need to use 10-12 liters of settled water and 25-30 grams of fertilizer;
  • with the onset of autumn, experts recommend introducing a top dressing under each clematis bush into the top layer of soil, which will be based on bone meal. One square meter will require 200-250 grams of flour. This feeding will provide plants with phosphorus, the lack of which leads to poor growth of young shoots and a change in foliage color.

Types of summer fertilizers for clematis

The abundant and prolonged flowering of clematis leads to the active absorption of nutrients from the soil. The plant needs mineral and organic fertilizers, which alternate.

If, when planting a young vine, the soil was well fertilized, this year it is better not to overload the bush with additional feeding. To ensure an even intake of nutrients, the plant is fed up to 4 times per season. Necessary feeding for clematis:

  • Bone flour. The source of phosphorus is introduced at the beginning of autumn at the rate of 200 gr. for 1 sq. meter.
  • Humus. Used when planting a bush, for each plant 20-23 kg of humus.
  • Nitrogen. Feeding the vine with nitrogen compounds is important for the uniform development of shoots and rich color of flowers. For 10 liters of water, 1 liter of slurry and 15 gr. nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate.
  • Potash fertilizers. Applied in early spring (potassium nitrate) and late summer (potassium sulfate) 25 g. fertilizers per 10 liters of water.

Pest Control Articles

To protect clematis from pests, fungal diseases, especially during the period of active development of shoots, the soil is treated with fungicidal agents. You can feed the plant through the leaves with "Flower solution" or "Aquarium". In summer, at the end of August, clematis needs potassium and phosphorus. It is best to use potassium sulfate, which is diluted in water and fed to the vine. For ten liters of water, thirty grams of the substance are needed. In the warm season, clematis like spraying with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and boric acid. Liana is sprayed once a month in the evening.

Top dressing of clematis in summer for lush flowering

Clematis are quite unpretentious. They adapt to different climatic conditions and can withstand severe frosts and heat. But the root system of clematis does not like high humidity and overheating, so the soil around the roots must be mulched. For a spectacular flowering, clematis needs regular feeding. When the first buds begin to form, the vines simply need additional nutrients. During this period, the plant simply needs phosphorus and potassium. It is best to use complex mineral fertilizers that do not contain chlorine. Also, during the budding period, the soil is additionally fed with a tincture of cow dung. The lush development of clematis can be achieved by increasing the power of the root system: in a 2-3-year-old bush dug and washed from the ground, pinch all the white tips of the roots by 0.5 cm. Thanks to this operation, the volume of the root system more than doubles. The next year, the plant blooms two weeks earlier and has larger flowers.

What other care is needed for clematis in the summer

Clematis do not tolerate overheating and drying out of the soil. It should always be slightly damp and loose. Therefore, after each watering and rain, the soil around the plants is loosened. Near novosadki - shallow (2-5 cm) to destroy the soil crust and the first weeds.

A good result is obtained by mulching the soil, which partially replaces watering and loosening. For clematis, it is best to use semi-rotted manure as mulch, sprinkling it with peat. When watering or raining, this mulch retains moisture longer and gives the plant additional nutrition. In winter, protects the root system from freezing, especially in ice. Thanks to the mulch, many worms appear, which, making holes in the soil, help to improve its structure.

After the end of flowering, at the end of August - September, it is useful to feed with monopotassium phosphate, complex autumn fertilizer or wood ash. On well-aerated cultivated lands, the root system of clematis extends up to 1 m wide from the base of the bush and up to 80 cm deep, which allows the plant to choose from the soil minerals and trace elements that are missing for vital activity. Properly planted clematis, feeding of which is carried out competently and in full, always blooms profusely and tolerates winter well.