How to properly fold a log house from a bar: from the first crown to finishing. How to assemble a blockhouse from a bar with your own hands? House from a bar instruction

For hundreds of years, our ancestors built houses from wood, during this time a lot of new, modern building materials have appeared, but people invariably return to natural materials and the best of them is wood.

Wooden houses:

warm,
reliable,
beautiful,
durable.

But they have another important advantage, a wooden house is easy enough to build. Having 3 people who know how to use carpentry, locksmith's tools, assistants, in one season you can build a good wooden house, from profiled or glued beams, and with your own hands.

Important: You can lay the foundation in advance, while it is warm, and build the house itself when the cold comes.

What is timber

The most popular are two types. Profiled timber is a wooden product, square or rectangular section.

The beam can be even, geometrically regular shape. Or profiled, having a certain profile, which allows you to more tightly dock the product at the interface.

Glued laminated timber, appeared relatively recently, it can be called a product of new, advanced technologies.

Visually, it looks like a profiled one. But the production technology is more complex. Glued laminated timber consists of several layers of wood, bonded using a special technology. It is more durable, more durable, easier to work with.

Important: Profiled timber can shrink up to 50 mm per 1m, depending on the dryness of the timber. Glued laminated timber shrinks, on average, 10-15 mm.

The thickness of the timber ranges from 90 mm to 275 mm.

The most popular are the profile section:

100 mm by 150 mm.
100 mm by 200 mm.
150 mm by 200 mm.
180 mm by 200 mm.

With a maximum standard length of up to 12m.

Wall length

Wall width

Wall height

Bar section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Bar length

5 m 6 m 7 m 8 m 9 m 10 m 11 m 12 m

Preparing a project

You won't be able to build from a bar without a project.

It is no secret that in the vastness of the CIS, there are many countries, and the level of bureaucracy is practically the same. We provide a list of the main documents that you will need to prepare.

A drawing of the foundation is required, a detailed description for it with a full layout according to material, composition, depth, etc. As well as detailed data on soil, composition, quality, groundwater, etc.
The next number is the building plan. You prepare it based on the foundation drawing, but also with a detailed description.
After that, you need a floor-by-floor, detailed plan. In it, specify in detail partitions, stoves, fireplaces, windows, doors, etc.
Another really important document is scattering. Simply put, this is a detailed sectional drawing of the walls of a house. By scattering, you can make an order for the manufacture of a bar, it will be made and marked for you as a designer. Then just look at the numbers and collect.
Specification of every detail of the house.
Detailed drawing of the roof, with a detailed description of all layers.
The final look of the house.

Please note: take seriously the description of the bar itself, what kind of wood, what kind of profile, the level of dryness of the bar, etc. This will eliminate confusion when ordering.

The package of documents is solid, of course, you can resist, although the work is painstaking, but you can do it yourself. But - advice, do not waste time. Collecting papers can take longer than the construction itself. Trust the professionals, on our website they will be happy to help you and it will cost you much cheaper than amateur performances.

Laying the foundation

To build houses from a bar, a major, expensive foundation is not required. These buildings are relatively lightweight.

For construction

Shallow strip foundation. This type of foundation is laid in a trench and has a maximum depth of 50 cm.
Mixed or strip and columnar foundation. This type is similar to tape. But in all important nodes, it has reinforcement in the form of concrete pillars.
Columnar. This foundation is based on pillars connected by a concrete or metal grillage.
On screw metal piles or screw piles. A product of modern technology. Metal, non-corrosive piles are screwed into the ground and connected with a grillage. The foundation is convenient, also because it is easy to repair.
On wooden piles, at this time it is rarely used since the tree, no matter how you handle it, still deteriorates in the ground.
On concrete piles. The foundation is excellent but expensive. To drive a concrete pile, you need special construction equipment.

To build from a bar, the first 4 options are enough. The instructions below, with minor amendments, are suitable for the first 3 types of foundations.

Tape

Any foundation starts with a markup. For marking we use ordinary wooden pegs and fishing line. At a distance of 30-40 cm from the projected wall, we drive in the pegs and pull the fishing line.
The body of the foundation will not be indicated by hammered pegs, but by a fishing line.

Important: after pulling the line, measure the diagonals. The distance along the diagonals must be exactly the same. Even the slightest discrepancy indicates incorrect angles, and you will get an asymmetrical foundation.

We take out the soil to a depth of 50 cm. Take into account the thickness of the formwork. Control the bottom of the trench by level.
Next, we make 2 pillows up to 10 cm each. Sand plus rubble.
We proceed to the installation of the formwork.
We put in waterproofing, the most budgetary option is roofing material or thick, technical polyethylene.
We weld or knit a reinforcing, metal frame.
We fill it with concrete, it is better to fill it all at once, in a complex manner. Order a mixer, fill the foundation in one go and wait for it to harden.
Remove the formwork, and put a crushed stone pillow in its place.

Mixed foundation

It differs from the previous tape by the presence of reinforcing pillars at the corners of the structure and in the most stressed nodes. Therefore, to the above, instructions for filling the pillars with your own hands are added.

We drill a hole under each post, to a depth of 1 m.
We make a similar blend of sand and gravel.
We roll up a pipe from roofing material in 2-3 layers and fix it with tape.
We insert the pipe into the pit, mount the reinforcement cage, 200 mm high above the general level of the foundation.
Before the main fill, make the sole of the post. To do this, pour the solution into the pipe and raise the pipe, allowing the solution to spread. When the solution hardens a little, start pouring the entire foundation.

Column type foundation

The pillars in this foundation can be made from concrete as in the previous version. So go all out of bricks, in the form of a curbstone.

Just lay out the curbstone with a well, and insert the reinforcement cage inside and fill it with concrete.

Himself, the pedestals are set according to the level and the grillage is mounted on them.

The grillage can be concrete, then a formwork in the form of a bath is made on the pillars, it is waterproofed, reinforcement is installed and concrete is poured. Or it is welded from metal, which is attached to the reinforcement cage of the posts.

Making crowns

The crowns are the first row of the timber. To build a good house from a bar, carefully consider the installation of crowns.

The video in this article clearly shows the installation with dowels.

Making the floor

At this stage, you should lay the foundation of the floor, a rough version. The final finishing will be done along with the interior fittings.

If you are building a relatively small building, bathhouse or garden house. It will be quite enough for you to lay an additional belt of a bar around the perimeter, fasten it with a crown and mount logs on this belt.

But if the house occupies a large area, the approach will be slightly different.

With a large square, separate pedestals should be laid out to support the floor, something similar to a separate foundation for the floor.

Depending on the composition of the soil, we lay the columns to a depth of half a meter.
We make them square 40x40 or 50x50. The step of the bookmark is from 50 to 90 cm.
In layers up to about 10 cm, we lay and tamp the sand and crushed stone.
We make a small reinforcement cage, up to 10 cm high, install it and fill it with concrete.
Next, we waterproof this base and lay out the brick cabinet, up to the level of the beams.
Lay down the waterproofing again and install the beams.
We grab the logs to the beams with self-tapping screws.
Between the logs, using a corner, we mount waterproof plywood.
We waterproof and tape all joints.
We put insulation on top and cover with a rough floor.

Building the walls

If you did everything correctly before that, then it will not be difficult for you to build walls from a bar with your own hands.

The profiled timber already has special grooves, they will facilitate the connection.
Do the corner connection as you like, there are 3 types of corner connection:

End-to-end.
Half a tree.
By means of a root thorn.

Be sure to lay insulation between the timber.
Check each laid beam by level and fix it with a dowel.
Leave technological gaps for shrinkage in the window area.

Important: when you put a load-bearing wall or support columns under the roof in the house, you should not rigidly attach them to the roof at first. Grab with self-tapping screws and enough. When the house starts to sit down and walk you will have to adjust the height of the support. When it sits down, fix it completely.

This video will tell you about the intricacies of wall construction.

We start installing the roof

The roof is a rather important stage of construction, but you can mount it yourself.

First, knock down a template from light boards. On it you will install the rafters.
Next, we set the beginning and end of the structure according to the template.
Between the installed rafters, at the control points, according to the level, we stretch the strings from the fishing line.
Guided by the strings, controlling the level and template, we mount the rest of the rafters.
We fill the crate on top and fasten it under the bottom with a styler, overlapping the vapor barrier.
We put insulation under the vapor barrier, between the rafters, close it with another layer of vapor barrier.
Next, we finally fix it with the bottom layer of the crate; it is already possible to attach the cladding to it according to your taste and wallet.
From above, the most budgetary option is to cover the upper roofing felt lathing and on top of it slate sheets.

A popular phenomenon in suburban areas is the construction of wooden houses. Because the log house is of high quality and comfortable. Moreover, it looks quite gorgeous from the outside, you can see this by looking at the photos of wooden houses. The construction of such a house can be afforded not only by the elite. The ability to work with a chainsaw or an electric saw makes it possible to build a reliable house from a bar with your own hands.
Log house construction technology
The beam is considered a universal building material, and it is quite easy to operate. The huge demand for wood is due to its economy and environmental friendliness. The simple technology for the construction of log houses does not bode well for a large investment of time. You should catch all the nuances of the work presented in video lessons and photos, as well as in articles, and even inexperienced builders will have a chance to build a house from a bar with their own hands.
In the construction of a house, everything has to be done in stages, then the speed and productivity of construction is guaranteed, and between some stages a certain period of time must be maintained.

Step-by-step instructions for building a house from a bar

Material selection

The duration of construction and its technology proportionally depends on the type of timber. It is faster to build a house from dried wood, but considering the material costs, the construction will cost much more. It is cheaper to construct a building from raw timber, but construction in this case takes more time.
For the construction of housing, the following types of wood are used:
1. Profiled timber.
2. Solid timber.
The advantages of the profiled bar:
- resistance to deformation;
- minimum construction costs;
- the risk of decay is excluded;
- excellent thermal insulation;
- high-quality armor against blowing;
- no additional wall cladding is required;
- simple assembly ensures the construction speed;
- impressive appearance.

Disadvantages:
- high flammability;
- needs impregnation with means to increase biosecurity and fire protection;
- cracking at elevated temperatures;
- need additional wall insulation;
- it is impossible to carry out the redevelopment of the erected log house;
- depending on weather conditions.
The advantages of a solid bar:
- does not need to use special equipment;
- there are no problems with the acquisition, since such a bar is widespread;
- low price, makes the timber available to everyone.

Disadvantages:
- finishing costs;
- low protection against blowing;
- decent cracking of the timber;
- such a construction site requires double-sided cladding;
- they need careful selection: compliance with GOST, no fungus;
- in the presence of a fungus, the timber needs to be treated with antiseptic agents.
When choosing, you should bet on the durability of wood. Faultlessness in the choice of timber, as well as adherence to technology are the guarantor of the quality of the house.

Preparation of materials

All the required amount of material should be collected before starting construction. The purchase of materials foresees two development options:
- purchase of finished timber. When ordering a material, the customer indicates all the necessary measurements and purchases a ready-made timber with grooves, which can be used immediately;
- buying wood that you need to prepare yourself. In this case, you have to cut the bars yourself, after which it should be treated with an antiseptic. Only after that will the construction of the house begin.
When buying wood, you should pay attention to the following factors:
- the quality of the tree;
- whether the beetles have eaten this bar and whether they live in it;
- are there any through cracks in the tree;
- whether the timber is affected by fungus.

Project development

Drawing up a diagram of a log house requires carefulness and accuracy of calculations. It is quite possible to draw a project with your own hands.

Creating a plan consists of several steps, which include their own nuances:

1. Determining the size of the house and directly its scheme.
At this stage, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of the purpose of the premises and the functions that they will perform, as well as all the necessary systems (ventilation, heating, etc.). It is important that rooms with high humidity (kitchen, toilet, bathroom) are located next to each other.
2. Calculation of the amount of materials.
When calculating material consumption, you need to take into account the thickness of the tree, as well as its length. An ordinary timber is six meters long, so if the walls of the house are planned to be longer, it is docked along the length.
Many construction companies create custom projects for log houses. When drawing up drawings, all rules are followed. A house built according to such schemes will be geometrically correct and earthquake resistant. Also on the Internet you can find many photos with examples of ready-made schemes for log houses.

Laying the foundation

The foundation for a wooden house must be very solid. When choosing the type of foundation, the following circumstances should be considered:
- soil characteristics;
- design features of the house;
- the value of the load of the structure.
By the volume of lumber, designed for building a house, it is easy to calculate the load of the future structure.
Foundation options:
1. Shallowly buried tape.
2. Deeply buried tape.
3. Columnar.
4. Pile.
Pile, as well as shallow foundations are considered more economical. But shallowly buried strip foundation is more popular.

The base of such a foundation should be laid to a depth of 50 to 70 cm.

Laying the first crown

To prevent high humidity from destroying the first crown, a buffer element should be created between it and the foundation. An antiseptic impregnated lining board (50 mm thick), which is usually made of larch, acts as such an element.

Before putting the board, the side of the base adjacent to it, cover with two layers of roofing material. A layer of waterproofing will provide moisture cut-off.

Wall installation

The step-by-step laying out of rows from a bar is the construction of walls. To prevent displacement, pins are used. Rows of wood are attached to them. A tight corner connection is ensured by the presence of grooves and tenons.

They should be additionally insulated with tow or other sealant. Laying out the phalanges of the timber, the spikes and grooves alternate.
There are several methods for joining beams at corners:
- connection to a warm corner;
- connections in the bowl;
- connection in the paw.
On the video on the Internet, you can find and watch a detailed instruction for the corner connection of the bar.
In places where the installation of doors and windows is planned, the size of the timber is calculated, taking into account the size of the opening. All openings are weak points for the walls. To make the wall stronger, some of the beams are laid precisely according to its size. When the assembly of the log house is completed and it settles, the excess material is cut out.

To increase strength and fire resistance, the walls are treated with special substances. To increase wind protection, all seams should be capped (capped). Many builders of their wooden cottages post a video on the Internet in which they step by step represent the installation of a log house.

Roof construction

The high probability of repairing the roof after building a house is guaranteed by its complex geometry. Therefore, the roof construction technology should be simpler. Therefore, it is better to build a gable roof.

After the construction of the walls, ceiling logs are placed on them, so that they protrude beyond the wall by 50 cm.The gap between them should be equal to the width of the insulation used 60 cm or 90 cm.
Next comes the assembly of the rafter system. To strengthen the rafters, crossbars and racks are used. Then the fronts are sewn up. The lathing is made with a maximum pitch of 400 mm, and is attached to the rafters.

Finishing work

You can watch the video how the houses from the timber look like, and how they are finished with all the nuances.

Floor arrangement

During the installation of log cabins, a preliminary floor covering is created along the floor beams. The floor itself is installed in two steps:

1. Laying the floorboard.
2. Laying the sub-floor.
The floor needs to be insulated; for this, mineral wool or other heat-insulating material is placed between the subfloor boards.

For flooring, in addition to the floorboard, you can also use laminate, as well as other materials.

Ceiling arrangement.

To reduce heat loss at home, the ceiling must be insulated with at least 200 cm of insulation. It is placed between the ceiling beams and protected with special vapor barrier and moisture protection films. The ceiling of wooden houses is sheathed with clapboard. Large beams, if desired, can not be sheathed, they will serve as decorative elements.

Internal and external finishing

Sometimes you just need to paint the house. This applies to those cases where profiled timber was used.
While the house is being built with their own hands, a long time passes, and the quality of the wood surface changes characteristically. Therefore, the timber should be re-sanded before painting.
Communication networks are being laid inside. In the photo on the Internet, you can see the result of finishing work in wood houses with a variety of design styles.

Installation of windows

In places intended for windows, special openings (window) are created. For this, grooves are cut out, a bar is placed in them, preferably not end to end. It should be smaller in length, so that when the walls shrink, it is possible for the timber to fall. Thanks to this, the shrinkage passes calmly, and at the end of it, windows are mounted.

It is not necessary to install wooden windows, you can also use plastic ones.

Installation of doors and partitions

For the installation of doors, the same technology is used as for the installation of windows.
Partitions are installed, exclusively after the assembly of the frame. If a two-story house with an area of \u200b\u200bmore than 60m2 is being built, then the first floor, which is not equipped with partitions, makes the building structure dangerous. For safety and strength, at least one partition is required.
In principle, building a house from a bar with your own hands is not at all difficult. You can watch video lessons in which all the nuances of construction are considered step by step. The very technology of building a house is simple and if you follow it, then the built house will be durable for many years.

Video. Detailed film about the construction of houses from a bar

After preparing the tools, you can start purchasing timber.

What material is better to choose

For construction, you can use solid and profiled timber. The advantages of the first option:

One-piece is several times cheaper than similar building materials.
It is not a problem to buy it - it is sold in any construction market.
Such a bar does not lose natural moisture, therefore, the preparation time of the wood is greatly reduced.
Where solid timber is used, there is no need to use special construction equipment.

The disadvantages when choosing a solid bar are as follows:

Additionally, you will have to spend money on finishing. Since a solid bar in itself is not beautiful, it is sheathed with clapboard or siding.

The tree in this version does not undergo a special drying procedure, therefore it can be affected by a fungus. To avoid this, treatment with special impregnations should be carried out in advance, and this is an additional cost.
If you use the timber in one piece, the room will be less warm, since the seams between the joints are well ventilated.

Attention! A bar without a profile cracks after shrinkage. Solid wood dwellings need cladding on both sides.

Profiled version - as the name implies, such a bar provides for the presence of a profile. Connections (spikes and grooves) are installed along its entire length.

The advantages are:

The walls during construction are very flat.
The profiled timber does not need cladding - it looks great on its own.
Mezhventsovy seams during construction are very tight, and the room from the inside, respectively, warm.
Water from precipitation will not be able to get into tight seams, which will prevent the tree from rotting.

Attention! The profiled timber has a small percentage of moisture, therefore it burns easily. Before construction, it must be treated with special fireproof impregnations.

Of the obvious disadvantages that this option has, it can be noted:

In the warm season, such a bar can crack.
Walls made of this material are quite thin and need additional insulation from the outside.

Design and foundation laying

It is quite possible to build a beautiful house from a bar cheaply. An independently made project will help to reduce the construction budget. It looks like this approximately:

The house itself is rectangular.
The roof is gable, maximum five. Corners and skylights increase the cost of work by about 40%.
There is no basement. This provides significant savings, since its presence increases costs by at least 30%.
The foundation is shallowly buried.
The building has 1 floor and some window openings.
There are no columns, balconies and bay windows.
The walls are decorated very simply.
The windows are of a standard size.
The facade is traditional.

After the approval of the project, you can start laying the foundation.

A house from a bar is built on a concrete or wooden base. The first option is most often used. First, concrete is poured, then a brick base is built on it. Only on top of this structure do they begin to lay the timber. Several types of foundations can be used as a basis for a wooden house:

recessed;
shallow;
tape type;
columnar.

In most cases, shallow and tape options are prepared for a wooden building. At the same time, the depth of laying is sufficient 50-70 cm.

How to build walls, a roof, arrange a floor and decorate a house

On the finished foundation, the timber is laid in rows one on top of the other until the walls of the required height are obtained. The grooves are made on the tree, with the help of which the logs fit tightly to each other. To make the walls stronger, it is imperative to use the spikes intended for connection.

Attention! All seams must be caulked. This will make the walls windproof.

It is better not to save on materials when arranging a roof. There are a lot of options for different budgets. Experienced builders advise equipping different sections of the roof with boards of different sizes. For example, a board of 140x40 mm is required for rafters, and 100x40 mm for braces and racks.

When arranging the floor, you should also be guided by your own preferences. There must be a waterproofing layer under the screed, for which several material options can be used:

jellied composition;
coating materials;
roll waterproofing;
penetrating moisture protection.

The interior design of the floor also needs to be approached with all the details carefully considered.

Council. For housing built from beams, wood-based coatings, that is, parquet and laminate, are best suited.

The next stage of construction is the arrangement of heating, power supply, sewerage, water supply. At the same stage, the doors are installed between the rooms, the finishing covering of the floor and ceiling is mounted.

Exterior wall decoration is also selected based on the preferences of future residents. Siding, lining, paint will do. In the case when the timber has an excellent appearance, you can leave the outside without finishing.

Photo and video materials attached to the article will help you get more information about construction. Of course, self-construction of a house from a bar is not an easy task. However, if the technology is maintained, you can get a reliable, beautiful and inexpensive home for yourself and your family.

Diy house from a bar: video

The technology of assembling a frame from a bar for a house or a bath

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To make the work work, the beams are laid out in a pile at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is placed on pads made of boards.

Next to the stack, a workplace is equipped for marking and cutting beams. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to cut the bar with a chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, which with their upper end rest on the upper crown of the frame. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make the lifting of the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow small forces to be dispensed with. Even one person can, if necessary, raise the bar, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar with a team of four people. You can also work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper rims of the frame and the roof, scaffolding is erected.

Three-tiered scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1 - extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped rack of the first tier scaffolding on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 - central racks; 5 - cross braces (shown conditionally); 6 - lugs

The assembly of the upper rims of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of erecting the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the device of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made of the same boards.

It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from stairs - do not forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical experience in construction shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before the start of work, a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house is drawn, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking the corner joints of the timber and the joints of the parts of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. AND and FROM - longitudinal walls; D and B - transverse walls; E - internal wall from a bar - a partition; 1 - the joints of the bars.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main bar with a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and on the right - doborks. At the next crown, laying begins in a similar order, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.

To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, pos. 1, are performed by making vertical cuts "into the floor of the tree" with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The bar in the corners of the crowns is connected in a ligation with a root spine (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark out spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identity of the size of the timber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is placed on the bar and the contour of the template profiles is transferred with a marker to the surface of the bar.

It is more convenient, faster to mark up and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part being marked. I put the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, you will need to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. Two mirrored wall details are marked with one template.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).

Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the timber of longitudinal walls. 4 - groove for the root spike; 5 - groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6 - template; 7 - a bar of additional.

The figure above shows the template for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall marking scheme, these are the crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main bar in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos. 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places of the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the details of the add-ons. To do this, on templates in points b and from through holes were drilled, and in points and and d incisions are made.

To mark the finish, the template is placed on the timber and dots are punctured on the surface of the workpiece through the holes and cuts.

Remember this technique with the device of the holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.

The templates are made of a planed "inch" board.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now consider how templates are used. To mark the first bar of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the bar and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection "in the floor of the tree". The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatching) is cut with a chain saw.

How to mark out spiked parts? Obviously, the tenon and the groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a part with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5 × 5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with a mezhventsovy heater.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the timber using a square. Neat cuts are made according to this marking.

How to assemble smooth walls from timber of different widths

Technical conditions (TU) for the manufacture of a bar allow for a deviation of the size of the bar in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard bar sizes, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will be different from the standard.

Each bar in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking the timber and assembling the walls.

How to assemble smooth walls if the timber is different in width and length?

b - the minimum width of the timber; delta b - the difference between a narrow and a wide beam.

Obviously, from a beam of different widths, only one wall surface can be made even - either outside or inside the building.

If you want to make a flat wall of the house outside, then all beams in the wall are aligned to the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(The difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment to the outside edge will increase the gaps in the gusset of the beams (see illustration).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will be already on the outer surface of the wall. The outside wall is usually sheathed. And if the beams are chamfered from the outer edges, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. The corner joints of the bars are denser, "warmer".

How and what to connect the crowns of the log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden pins. The pins are placed at a distance of about 250-300 mm from the end of the bar and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the bar.

Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two pins. The length of the dowel should be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the bar.

cm., pos. 1.

Round steel pins with a diameter of 6-8 mm. - pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the bars of the crowns, option a on the picture.

The upper ends of the pins made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log shrinks, the pins will be higher than the timber and raise the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason it is impossible to make driven pins from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the bars of the crowns from moving when the log shrinks, even if the dowel is buried in the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such pegs.

Small diameter steel driven dowels cannot always provide the required wall stiffness, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install pins with an increased diameter.

Steel pins with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden pins, are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly less than the diameter of the pin.

With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the stiffness of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm convenient to cut from round tool cuttings. These cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer from the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from a regular board "inches" square pins 25x25 mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively "soft" coniferous wood are crumpled when driven in, the wood is compacted, ensuring a sufficiently tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in a bar for pins

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing the dowels should be at least 4 cm. length of the dowel. Moreover, the hole should be free of chips.

To drill holes in a bar that are deep enough and of large diameter, a slow-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of the power tool usually indicates for what drilling diameter in a particular material the drill is designed. Considering the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The stop, in the form of a wooden bar, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill cleans the hole from shavings, rubbing in and, then, easily gets out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar, which is already installed on the wall in the design position on the inter-crown insulation. But here usually a problem arises - the inter-row gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.

You have to install the timber on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed against displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for pins. Then the beam is moved from the wall and the inter-crown insulation is laid.

At drilling sites the gasket is cut with a sharp knife... Then, the removed bar is put back in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with pins.

Drilling holes in the timber laid on the wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", the powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a straight wall from a curved bar

In the timber brought to the construction site, some of the bars may turn out to be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, then it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other less critical places.

A small amount of beams with curvature in one plane can be used for wall mounting. You should not lay such a bar into the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the bar will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower rims.

The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in the horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with pins

A curved bar is drilled, aligning it at the drilling points with a straight bar. After laying the mezhventsovy insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and unbending sequentially fixed with dowels at the other points.

To unbend the bar, much effort is not required. The lever and bracket will help facilitate the work.

Mezhventsovaya gasket - insulation, seal

For the cold, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or linseed tow was used for this. Currently, there are special liners on the market based on flax or flax. The material is sold as a roll of tape 20 cm.

The strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the bar in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then from the outer edge of the timber the gasket should be 1-2 cm.otherwise it will get wet.

Some masters lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after shrinkage of the log house, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this version, we have a lower consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking the joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the sealant thicker, in several layers (three layers), in order to eliminate the need for caulking the horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correctness of the assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

The verticality of the corners.
Height of corners and walls.
The horizontality of the rims and upper edges of the bar.
The straightness of the walls.
The quality of laying the mezhventsovy insulation.

For vertical angle control apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown. 1 - bottom harness; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - base.

A vertical line is drawn on each side of the crown at the same distance from the corner edge.

With the correct placement of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of the corners and walls is measured tape measure. Measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

The horizontality of the crowns and top faces the timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determine visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

The verticality and height of the corners should be checked especially carefully and constantly. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the bar in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the spacer between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock on a bar in a high corner with a sledgehammer.

The quality and thickness of laying the mezhventsovy insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in crowns in the area of \u200b\u200bopenings has its own characteristics.

and - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. in - the scheme of cutting a bar, where c is the remainder of the cutting. r - a variant of the device of an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos. 7. d - the option with installation in the opening of the decks, pos. 6 - we immediately get the opening ready to install a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.

One option is “ r " on the picture. The opening is done in a draft version, only preparation is made to create the opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the frame. This work is left for later - usually done after the log shrinkage.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall to the frame, pos. 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the piers can "take away" inward or outward. To prevent this, the timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - “ d»In the picture, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. For this, decks (windows) are installed in the openings - a vertical bar with a groove, pos. 6 in the figure. The groove includes the spike of the partition bar. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed against displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also act as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.

Option for installing a window in a wall from a bar: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical window with a spike rail, enters the groove of the wall bar; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - PSUL sealing tape

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, a deck (window) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the beams of the pier from displacement.

The length of the log (box) or slats should be 5-7 less than the opening height cmso as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A bar for a house, a bath in your city

How to correctly install windows in a wall from a bar

If the opening in the wall was made in a draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting the opening to the desired size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, pos. 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.

Correct installation of the window in the timber wall. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall timber above the window; 7 - mezhventsovy insulation; 8 - shrinkage gap over the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall timber (wall); 11 - deck; 12 - a nail.

Then with a circular saw, spikes are cut out at the ends of the beams of the wall (wall). On the thorns, pos. 10, a deck is inserted with a groove, pos. 11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

A window box is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house... Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with a soft insulation material.

The expansion gap must also be left above the top end of the deck.

In a similar way, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.

After the completion of the assembly of the first floor of the house, the blockhouse is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the structure is one-story) overlap.

They can be a structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the construction of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the load-bearing frame of the attic roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology of installing a log house from a building bar.

Profiled wood with the proper quality of processing gives a gapless connection. The shutter made of groove elements - the tongue of the labyrinth-type double cup lock has been tested for decades. Fitting gapless corner joints can turn the frame of a log house into a thermos without significant heat loss.

Cold bridges blocked

It is profitable to order a ready-made standard project for the construction of a cottage from a bar with reference to the region. Select from the savings in the network and adapt the technical project to the request by the designer. What is the advantage of the project:

Get a detailed cost estimate for material, components, cost of work;
Issues of lack of material or the sale of the remaining surplus will not arise;
Detailed drawings and subassemblies will lead you out of the maze of errors;
Transport costs are optimized;
Laying pipes and cables will not cause difficulties;
The maximum cost of a standard project is 20 thousand rubles.

But the implementation of the idea runs into the need to hire a team of qualified carpenters. The level of responsibility, skill of specialists and the seriousness of hidden defects will become clear during the first winter.

How to be inexperienced in construction for the layman who has conceived to build a warm house from profiled timber with his own hands? Order a house kit at a local house-building plant and save a substantial amount by this step and bring the settlement date closer.

In fact, a house kit is a constructor for a builder. The profiled timber is cut to size, the dovetail type connecting locks are made without gaps on precision factory equipment, which excludes the appearance of cold bridges.

In the attached video, craftsmen use a chainsaw with jewelry for this purpose. But are they capable of replicating the precision of a machine tool production line? It can be seen that the cuts are made approximately, with a margin. They will surely caulk or foil inconsistencies in the cuts? Doubt pushes to engage in self-construction. And the cost of work will result in no less amount than factory processing.

Do-it-yourself house made of profiled timber

Benefits of purchasing a house kit from a profiled bar

Technological worker replaces carpenter - that's what machining means

The developer is limited in time, he is looking for an opportunity to reduce the cost of building a log house. Let's figure out whether the costs for cutting and sampling are reasonable:

You get kiln-dried wood with 10–16% moisture content in sealed bags;
End-face treatment with INDULINE film-forming stabilizer. This means that the main channel of moisture absorption is blocked, the web of cracks will not disfigure the cut;
Each part is numbered, the instructions will indicate the place of assembly;
Adjustments and modifications are excluded, time is spent only on the assembly process at home;
Check prices at wholesalers for a cubic meter of long profiled logs. It turns out that the cost of a similar unit of a house kit is the same or more expensive by up to 10% - this is where the benefit is hidden;
A set of timber for a house with an area of \u200b\u200b120 m 2 will cost about 650,000 rubles, for 190 m 2 - about 950,000 rubles;
The cost of assembly is averaged 25% of the cost of the timber. Dispose of the reserve fund at your own discretion;
The thickness of the log house will be offered according to the climatic zone: the common size of the timber is 150 x 150 mm, suitable for Voronezh. In Siberia, wall thickness less than 220–250 mm is unacceptable;
Installation will be accelerated twice;
The material is treated with 100% antiseptic and fire retardant.

Complete set 100% from base to ridge, such is the construction service

Ready-made home kits from the manufacturer

Laying the foundation

The weight of 1 m 3 of dried coniferous timber is 0.5 tons. Roofing, interfloor floors, furniture, wind and snow loads will be added. The total weight will not exceed 40 tons for a two-storey house 10 x 10 m. The depth of groundwater and the type of soil affect the choice of the basis.

The pile will speed up the start of the assembly of the frame. Columnar and shallow foundations are laborious: the volume of excavated soil is large. To prevent the concrete from getting wet, a compacted sand bed of 0.3 m is made, on top of a gravel pad.

The concrete foundation is poured in advance, at least six months before the start of construction. Box-shaped reinforcement with a metal period Ø 12–14 mm will strengthen the monolith. After the concrete has polymerized, the base must stand so that the swelling of the soil during freezing and thawing reveals weak points or confirms strength.

The layout of the foundation of the house is carried out in accordance with the drawing. The corner base points of the outer and inner fillets require special attention. Precision is required in the location of the threaded inserts. After removing the formwork, the walls and the upper edge are coated with a waterproofing agent. Insulation with expanded polystyrene will extend the life of the foundation. Backfilling of clay is done with a bevel outward.

We raise a house from a profiled bar

We level the upper edge of the foundation according to the level, lay 2 rows of roofing material for waterproofing. We lay antiseptic and treated with bitumen mastic boards of fifty of a larger format: logs will rest on them.

The bottom row is prone to decay. Let's donate boards - it's easier to replace them. We put the first crown on the layer of insulation. We pay special attention to the coincidence of the angles. We do not let go of the level, plumb line, and the cord for checking the diagonal.

An insulation tape is inserted into the sinuses of each row of the profiled timber and the corner joints of the outer walls. Wooden dowels, hammered in with interference, strengthen the connection of the elements of the frame. Steel screeds will cause dew point in the thickness of the material, provoke delusion and decay. Therefore, they are used only to connect the log house with the foundation.

There is no loophole for the cold: the barrier is reliable

The installation of the log under the subfloor is consistent with the size of the mineral wool slab insulation with a step of 0.6 m. Fastening to the timber with reinforced corners and on suspensions stabilizes the spatial laid log.

Splicing is allowed by overlap or by overlapping a cut with a fixation zone of at least 0.6 m of each end. On both sides, the logs are sewn up with 9 mm OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood. Laying a vapor-conducting membrane is mandatory.

The floor slab is analogous to the subfloor. The only difference is in the amount of insulation, which has become a sound insulator. Partitions are mounted in one axis - partial unloading of the load-bearing walls is needed: in addition to its own weight, the roof transmits wind load.

The skill of assembling walls from profiled beams and partitions according to the drawing and instructions comes quickly. An important concern, while the roof is not covered, is to protect the log house and unclaimed workpieces from precipitation and air humidity in bad weather.

In the heat and frost, cracking of a tree saturated with moisture is inevitable. Cracking will worsen the thermal conductivity of the wood. Eliminating damage is a long-term “pleasure” for more than one day.

Let's give the floor to the Scandinavians

There are a lot of heaters that are superior to wood in terms of heat conservation. And profiled timber of a large format is expensive due to the abundance of waste unsuitable for processing into building materials. Swedish builders decided to reduce the cost of processes by including paired parts with a thickness of 70 mm.

Using a smaller section wood reduces costs by up to 40%. The breathable foam insulation seals the joints and reduces the power of heating devices even in the Arctic zone. Penoizol is ideal for cost and thermophysical properties on the market.

A variant was tested with the replacement of a wooden beam with a laminated chipboard analogue from chips. A heat insulator of 100 mm carries the main load in terms of heat saving. The resulting monolith is not afraid of warping and cracking. Shrinkage also decreased. It often makes sense to adopt such a novelty.

Progress does not stand still

Can you build, learn to wait

After you have brought the house under the roof, closed the windows and doors and left only cracks for a draft (let it blow out excess moisture), you need to wait for shrinkage. Under their own weight, the spikes of the timber will cut deeper into the grooves of the structure. The pause lasts up to six months. Windows, door frames are waiting in the wings, otherwise the structure will warp.

Now is the time to carry out additional insulation from the inside. It should be noted that in this way the costs for profiled timber are reduced: reducing the size by 50 mm in thickness and width brings savings of 2–2.5 thousand rubles. per cubic meter

The only condition: natural and artificial materials with steam conductivity are used. Let's turn the dwelling into a foam box - we will destroy the tree, we will arrange a bathhouse in the room. We'll have to invest in forced ventilation.

No matter how good the profiled beam is, the smoothness of the walls is relative. If you like the interior of the hut, leave it as it is. The texture of the timber under the varnish layer looks attractive. But, of course, the design of a modern stylish home requires a different approach.

As an option, drywall, fixed along vertical holders, will hide flaws. A heat insulator will be arranged between the guides and the house will not be afraid of the cold. While one floor is being finished, the other will already become residential.
Protecting the facade of a house from profiled timber, as a regular event, will drive you crazy. Varnishes, paints, impregnations fade under the sun and lose their protective properties. Perhaps sooner or later you will have to think about a ventilated facade. But the house, assembled from a bar, under the plastic cladding will lose the charm of natural material.

Bottom line: your own roof over your head

Conclusion

Building a house from a bar on your own in the summer season is a feasible task. Do not make adjustments to the finished project - this is perhaps the only wish of the manufacturer. The implementation of a large-scale project by the customer and the contractor in one person ensures that your expectations are met.