Instructions for the installation of plastic windows by hand. Installing plastic windows yourself

Plastic windows are installed both in multi-storey buildings and in wooden houses. They are deservedly popular, as they have many advantages over wooden frames. They:

durable,
durable,
aesthetic,
environmentally friendly,
functional,
are not blown
do not take up a lot of space in the window opening, which allows you to increase the window sill.

However, some advantages, for example, durability and tightness, are achieved only if windows are installed in accordance with GOST. Not all installers follow these rules. This does not mean that the window block will fall out of the window opening. However, after the change of the seasons of the year, gaps may appear, which will become cold bridges. The window can be skewed in the opening, which will cause problems with closing and opening the sashes.

Installation seam requirements

The quality of the installation seam laying is of great importance during installation. It is he who provides tightness and protection from moisture. The assembly seam in accordance with the current GOST 30971-2012 must:

consist of at least three layers;
be sealed;
be denser on the inside than outside;
be made of those materials, the service life of which is comparable to the estimated service life of the window - at least 20 years of conditional operation.

Insulation materials used for window installation

The functions of the joint layers are different. They are designed to provide steam, sound and heat insulation:

The main one provides sound and heat insulation.
External - protects the seam from atmospheric moisture penetration.
Internal - protects against steam coming from the room.
Additional (arranged in concrete and brick buildings) - protects against moisture absorption from the wall material by the seam material.

Therefore, different types of vapor barrier tapes are used in different areas:

PSUL - is installed to seal external joints. It has a self-expanding ability, and therefore fits tightly to surfaces.
ВС (ВС +) - used for the vapor barrier of internal slopes installed by dry method, meaning drywall or plastic.
VM (VM +) - is used for finishing internal slopes, which will subsequently be covered with plaster.
GPL (GPL +) is a universal tape capable of performing the functions of steam, sound and noise insulation. It is made on the basis of polyethylene foam, on one side it is laminated with a polyurethane film.

Outside, membrane-type waterproofing tapes are also used, which serve to drain precipitation.

To improve performance, additional weather protection elements can be used. For example, cover strips and linings, as well as an ebb installed from the bottom of the window.

From the inside, the seam is plastered or slopes and a window sill are installed.

How to take measurements correctly

The height, width and depth of the window opening are measured carefully. If a building level is used, then measurements are carried out at least three times, checking all indicators, because The deviation vertically and horizontally should not be more than 4 mm per 1 m. In addition, a laser level can be used, an additional method is to measure the diagonals of the opening.

If the deviation is more than acceptable, the window unit cannot be installed. First, you need to correct the geometry of the window opening.

Preparation of a window opening

Before carrying out work, a workplace is prepared. All furniture is removed from the window, curtains are removed. Using a punch, a saw removes the old window block.

During the dismantling of the old unit and the installation of a new one, fine dust is formed, which will settle on the floor next to the window and on the furniture in the room.

Plaster is removed from the window opening. If there are sinks or overlays larger than 10 mm, they must be repaired. Relatively small shells are putty with a waterproof putty, larger voids are sealed with plaster, rigid insulating materials or wood treated with antiseptics. When using mineral wool, they provide protection from moisture.

Only those surfaces are treated with plaster that will directly affect the quality of window installation: this is part of a quarter of a window opening with a width of about 25 mm, a section of the surface of an internal wall slope, i.e. directly those surfaces with which the vapor barrier tape will come into contact.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a window block in accordance with GOST with a photo

	The place is prepared for the installation of the box, now they start pre-installation work concerning the window block. To fix the frame in the opening, it is technologically more correct to use special devices, they allow you to adjust the frame in height and width, without losing the rigid fixation of the frame in the opening, unlike wooden mounting wedges. The frame is pre-installed, aligned with the adjusting bolts, the future position of the vapor barrier tape is marked with a pencil on the protective film.
	Then holes are prepared in the frame to secure the anchor plates by drilling. The drill is inserted from the outer end of the profile. This method is optimal, because the hole is not broken in this case. It is important to first use small diameter drills, and then the required larger one.
	The PSUL insulating tape must be fixed to the bottom of the box. This tape ensures tightness after installation of the support profile - a technological element - on the box. The operation can be performed in the shop during the assembly of the structure, but it does not hurt to know about this need. Having sealed the joint with PSUL tape, the profile is installed in its regular place.
	The base profile, in turn, is covered from above with a BC or VM tape, the difference between them in this case does not really matter.
	After the tape is glued, fasteners are attached to the box. Anchor plates are considered more optimal, since when they are installed, the tightness is not broken. The distance between the anchor plates for a white PVC window and with a box width of not more than 62 mm should not exceed 700 mm, if the box width is over 62 mm, then the maximum allowable distance is reduced to 600 mm. For windows from a colored profile under the same conditions, these indicators are equal to 600 and 500 mm, respectively. Fasteners are fixed with self-tapping screws of such length that they are fixed in the lower bar of the box. Anchor plates can be misleading. In fact, you cannot rely only on latches, you must rigidly attach the anchor plates to the profile.
	All dust, shavings, remaining plaster are swept from the opening. Now you need to create the first layer of the installation seam around the entire perimeter. For this purpose, PSUL tape is glued on the outside. The master should be guided by the markings previously applied to the film. But at the moment of gluing the PSUL tape, the film is simultaneously removed from the window block. If the length of the PSUL tape is not enough for the entire perimeter of the box, you can use another piece, but it cannot be glued with an overlap, only end-to-end.
	The window unit is now fixed in place and carefully aligned.
	Holes are drilled in the side and top slopes to secure the anchor plates. According to GOST, they must be fixed with two dowel screws.
	The support blocks should be located under the vertical elements of the window and in places with the greatest weight pressure. The pads can be made of wood or polymer. Moreover, special requirements are applied to their quality: the hardness must be at least 80 units. Shore, with a length of 100-120 mm.
	Distance side blocks are installed between the box and the wall, at a distance of about 200 mm from the corners. These are optimal values, taking into account the possibility of thermal expansion and contraction of the profile.
	Next, a waterproofing membrane tape is installed, for example, Robiband NL. On the one hand, it protects the polyurethane foam from moisture from the street, on the other hand it removes moisture from the foam outside. It is necessary to calculate the length of the piece so that it would be enough not only to glue it along the entire length of the lower window profile, but also to bring it onto the side slopes from the outside. It may happen that the tape is not wide enough to cover the assembly seam. Then another piece of tape of the same length is cut off and glued with an overlap of 2-3 cm in length on the first tape, and the lower section of the tape should go under the upper one to ensure the correct outflow of water.
	In the future, the box is fastened to the bottom of the opening using two dowel screws for each plate.
	Then, VS or VM vapor barrier tapes are glued to the side vertical and upper horizontal frame profiles. The ВС tape is intended for vapor barrier of dry slopes, ВМ - for plaster slopes, it is additionally duplicated with non-woven material, which ensures the adhesion of the tape and plaster. They have a self-adhesive layer. It is important to control the adhesion of the tapes.
	The next stage - the slopes are primed, and only then the tape is glued to them. Primer treatment is especially recommended when surfaces are easily crumbling and crumbling. This applies to foam concrete and gas silicates. The GSR primer and its analogs are used.
	The low tide is tried on in place and cut to the desired size.
	Plugs are installed on the ends or bend them.
	The PSUL tape is glued to the lower plane along the length. Here it is used as a soundproofing pad. Then holes are drilled in the low tide for fasteners. The fasteners must be located at a distance necessary for fixed fixation.
	The ebb is attached to the support profile. Its angle of inclination should not be less than 100 degrees with respect to the vertical plane.
	Next, the mounting gaps are foamed with polyurethane foam. It is important to moisten the surfaces with water before this. Under these conditions, the foam expands optimally, fills the space and hardens.
	Filling with foam insulation is recommended to be done in layers, with breaks and moistening the layers. It is applied over the backing and spacers. After filling the seams, the surface of the foam is moistened again, but the areas where the tape will stick are left dry. The tape without sagging is glued to the slopes. Sections of tape that converge at the corners must ensure complete tightness. According to the technology, the overlap in these places is at least 100 mm.
	Then proceed to the installation of the window sill, the size of which is determined locally. Support pads are used to adjust the position of the window sill. They should be adjusted so that the sill rests on them, but is in a horizontal position. Their number is selected taking into account the fact that the window sill must withstand a vertical load of at least 100 kg.
	Holes are drilled through the groove on the lower profile of the box. They are needed to secure the window sill with self-tapping screws. First, countersinking is carried out with a drill of a larger diameter, then holes are made through with a drill of a smaller diameter. The shavings are swept away. Curved anchor plates or corners are fixed on the bottom of the window sill. With their help, the window sill is attached to the wall. This operation is necessary if the window sill is wide enough and there is an extension of more than 1/3 of the width.
	Before installing the window sill, you need to prepare a pillow of foam insulation. The surface is moistened. Insulation is applied in separate sections, and not in a continuous canvas.
	After installing the window sill, the gap between it and the window block is filled with sealant. The sealant layer width should not be less than 3 mm. After that, the window sill is attracted by the screws. The excess is removed with a soft spatula. Until the foam insulation has hardened, double-glazed windows are installed to provide additional rigidity to the structure.
	Side abutments of the ebb are sealed using mastic sealants. The excess is removed with a spatula.
	Then the sashes and fittings are installed. At the final stages of window installation, it is recommended to periodically squeeze the vapor barrier tape with a rubber roller to control the expansion of the insulation.

Thus, windows are installed in accordance with GOST. It takes a professional 2-2.5 hours to install a standard double-leaf unit. A layman will spend much more time on installation, and it is necessary to carefully follow the instructions at every stage, which is not always possible due to a lack of skills.

With the emergence of innovative technologies, ordinary residents were able to equip their homes with greater comfort, coziness and warmth. Plastic windows play a significant role in this process. Finally, we can get rid of wooden windows that dry out in summer, dry out in winter, retain heat poorly and become sources of drafts.

A glass unit of a modern type absolutely does not have the listed disadvantages. It is durable, durable, safe for the human body, has a beautiful and attractive appearance. PVC windows will delight you with their functionality for a long time, but with only one condition: the installation of double-glazed windows must be in accordance with GOST and all the nuances and rules of installation technology must be observed. How to install plastic windows correctly if you have never done this before?

Trying to do the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands is quite problematic, especially if you live in a multi-storey building. This will require the skill of a climber, which you will not have. Therefore, the easiest way out is to hire specialists. But even in the event that workers who deserve numerous good reviews and recommendations come to you, you should check whether they are installing your window correctly. And for this you need to know the main points of installing plastic windows, which, for your part, you must control.

Window installation

The technology for installing a plastic window in accordance with GOST involves the step-by-step implementation of a number of measures and measures according to specified criteria, and in strict sequence each stage.

Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST begins with dismantling the old window: workers must completely remove it, clean the opening to the brick or concrete base of the frame. Further workers must prime the surface of the slopesinto which the new frame will fit.

Please note that the installers use a primer when working, but not water. The primer will ensure good adhesion of the materials, which will then be used to seal the resulting voids.

How is the special tape attached to the PVC frame? The compacted compressed tape is attached around the perimeter frames from the outside. Its main purpose is to remove residual moisture that remains in the window opening. Such a device restrains the penetration of moisture in the opposite direction.

Then to the window frame attach the diffusion tape... As a rule, it is white, dense fabric structure on a rubber basis. It adheres well to wall openings, and also protects the seam from moisture.

After attaching all tapes, the installers fix the anchor plates to the frame... They are placed around the entire perimeter with a distance of 70 cm from each other. After that, the window block can be installed in the window opening.

Now the installation of a plastic window in accordance with GOST goes to another stage, including it fastening to the window opening.

Important! The glass unit should not be placed on concrete, but on wooden blocks that have been treated with an antiseptic compound. These blocks help to adjust the clearances between the frame and the concrete slope. According to existing standards, the gap should not exceed 2 cm.

When the anchor plates are attached to the wall opening, the resulting gap must be fill with polyurethane foam.

Foam is additional thermal insulation... It should fill all gaps and crevices to prevent excess moisture from entering. In addition, it is the polyurethane foam that helps reduce noise. After filling the cracks with foam from the inside, the seams must close with a dense diffuse tape.

Before installing the window sill, workers should use metallized tape, which takes part in the thermal insulation of the bottom seam.

Remember! Professional installers should lay the protective tape over the outside of the window, i.e. from the street. And the foam from the side of the facade should not be visible at all.

Sill mount

- this is the final stage of installation of PVC windows.

A cement screed is laid on the concrete base, which will help ensure the stability of the window sill. Only on this solution it will not sag and even can support the weight of a personwho wants to sit on a comfortable base.

Internal slopes are applied to the initial profile, and each subsequent step is performed using measurements of the building level, which helps track the level of inclination of the frame... If it exceeds the norm even a little, then the window will be bad both to open and close. Therefore, the construction crew must be closely monitored.

Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2002 should be done in this sequence. And finally, we note that before dismissing the workers and signing the acceptance certificate, check the window, open and close the flaps and ensure correct operation in all directions.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of how the installation of a plastic window according to GOST should look like:

If you have ever installed plastic windows, and the workers who served you performed the installation strictly according to the instructions and in accordance with GOST 30971-2002, leave your feedback in the comments.

PVC windows, which are often called double-glazed windows in everyday life, are extremely popular today. Which is not surprising. Such structures have a lot of advantages over the old standard wooden windows, which today, for the most part, not only have a rather unsightly appearance, but are also unable to perform the functions assigned to them. So apartment owners are striving to replace outdated structures in order to make their home warm and quiet inside, and beautiful and modern outside.

Today, the cost of the services of professionals in the field of construction and repair is extremely high. Perhaps this explains the fact that nowadays many are trying to carry out such work on their own, without seeking help from specialists. Of course, not everything can be done by hand, especially in the absence of appropriate skills. However, there are works that are quite within the capabilities of a home craftsman, despite their apparent complexity. Among them is the installation of PVC windows. Almost every homebrew craftsman can independently carry out such a procedure. The main thing is to correctly follow the technology of the process, carefully observing all its requirements. Which, in fact, is quite simple to do if you have instructions for installing PVC windows before your eyes. Competent and detailed. And if there is none, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with our article, in which we want to tell you in detail what a procedure such as installing a PVC window with your own hands is.

Stages

Installation of PVC windows is a job that many home craftsmen are afraid to carry out because of the seemingly extreme complexity of the process. It should be noted, completely in vain. It is not as difficult as it seems to some from the outside. Moreover, when installing double-glazed windows, no special tools are required. So, almost the usual set of a home master, which is available in every home (we will dwell on it in more detail below). The procedure itself includes several stages, including a preparatory one. To summarize, it looks like this: first you need to carry out all the measurements correctly in order to acquire the "correct" double-glazed window; then you need to prepare the opening for installation, install the window and the accessories attached to it; then refine the slopes. All these procedures (except for the last one) take only two to three hours from professionals. The home craftsman, of course, will have to work longer, but during the day he may well cope with the task. But PVC is still half the battle, because after installation you still have to tinker with the slopes, then it's better to count on a few days. Let's say, devote a weekend to this business.

So let's get started. From measurements.

Calculations

To install a PVC window with your own hands went smoothly, you need to correctly calculate the dimensions of the structure. The fact is that double-glazed windows will have to be ordered, since you will hardly be able to just go to the store and buy them. You can, of course, call the specialists of the company that produces and installs windows, however, firstly, you will have to pay for this, and secondly, such companies, as a rule, provide comprehensive services - from measurement to production and installation every PVC window ordered from them. Prices for almost everyone today, due to fierce competition, are the same, and usually about 30% of the cost is taken for installation. Typically, this is around $ 50 on average. And if you decide to save money, you will have to do everything yourself. Including calculate the dimensions of the future glass unit. And in order to do this correctly, you first need to study the old structure and the opening itself, because there are two types of it - with the so-called quarter and without it. This is a special design that is present on the sides of the opening. To find out, you must first remove the cashing from the old wooden window. And then measure the width of the old frame, first from the side of the room, and then from the side of the street. If the result is the same, there is no quarter. If there is a difference, then there is a similar construction. From here and dance.

If there is a quarter, the height of the future window will be the same as the opening itself. But three centimeters should be added to the existing width. In its absence, the glass unit should be shorter by five centimeters and already three. This difference constitutes the so-called gap. When installing PVC windows, it is necessary, since the installation of such structures is carried out using foam, and it requires space between the opening and the frame itself.

Well, in the event that we are talking about a new building, then at the moment the technologies for the construction of houses do not provide for the presence of such a structure as a quarter. That is, you will have a clean window opening available. Feel free to measure its dimensions vertically and horizontally and go with them to a PVC window company. There, specialists will carry out all the necessary calculations themselves.

Optional accessories

Since the correct installation of PVC windows is impossible without the presence of additional elements, then when ordering a structure, you should definitely pay attention to this. In addition to the glass unit itself, you should additionally be provided with accessories, a special seal, an installation profile and a window sill with an ebb. As for the last two additions, here you need to know some nuances.

These elements are available in several standard widths. Therefore, it is enough to measure the existing old structure, and then choose the one that suits you. As for the length, it is better to take elements with a margin of at least twenty centimeters. All unnecessary you can cut off when the installation of the PVC window sill is carried out directly. Well, the ebb, respectively.

After the design has been ordered and the terms agreed, you can start preparing. Of course, you can free the window opening from the old frame only immediately before installing the new glass unit. There is no need to explain that it is impossible to sit in an apartment without windows for a week. The installation time for a PVC window, as we have already mentioned, is about three hours for specialists. Even if you are busy, without experience, all day, but the old frame must be removed, of course, only before starting the installation of a new one. But you should prepare everything you need for the process in advance.

So what do you need?

Tools and materials

When the PVC window is installed with his own hands, the master should have a certain and, most importantly, a mandatory set of tools and materials, without which the installation process cannot be carried out. Therefore, you should attend to the acquisition:

Drills.
An assembly gun, which will be needed when carrying out the procedure for foaming seams.
Construction level.
Chisels.
Rubber mallet.
Stapler.
Hacksaws for metal.
Professional foam assembly.
Waterproof tape.
Construction screws, the length of which must be at least 12 mm.
Laminated foil waterproof tape.

This is a basic set that is required when a simple installation of PVC windows is carried out. If you plan to mount the structure using, then, of course, you need to attend to their acquisition. In this case, you should pay attention to their strength. It is advisable to buy fasteners made of thick metal, since the installation of PVC windows will still be carried out, which have a fairly large weight, and not some lightweight suspended structures.

Preparatory procedures

So, new double-glazed windows have been delivered to you, which means you can start preparatory work. First of all, you need to free the room from furniture as much as possible. Do-it-yourself PVC window installation is a procedure that requires a large amount of free space, so we remove everything that is possible from the room. Then you can start dismantling the old structure. Naturally, it is quite possible that PVC will be carried out in a newly built house with new window openings. In this case, we naturally omit this stage. However, most often, home craftsmen are interested in exactly how to install a PVC window instead of a wooden frame that has served its time. And for them the information presented below will be extremely valuable. Although it is argued that it is much easier to break than to build, nevertheless, everything must be done wisely so as not to damage the window opening. By the way, he will suffer quite a lot without this, so try to carry out the dismantling procedure as gently as possible.

Removing the old window

If the wooden structure is so dilapidated that the glass literally almost falls out, then they must first be removed. To do this, it is enough to first remove the glazing beads holding the glass. If it is still quite strong, then you can try to remove the existing doors from the hinges along with the glass. However, be careful. Better still get rid of the glass, so as not to accidentally damage your skillful hands. As a result, a frame without sashes and a window sill should remain in the window. Equip yourself with a hacksaw or, even better, a grinder equipped with a concrete circle, and saw through the old frame in several places. Then use a pry bar to remove it piece by piece. As a result, there will be a window sill. Do the same with him. First, cut it out, and then break it off. The problem can be caused by a window sill made not of wood, but of concrete. In this case, of course, you will have to tinker. And best of all, a jackhammer will help to cope with the problem. In the absence of the latter, wield a grinder and a punch.

After the old window is removed, carefully examine the opening. Remove all protruding pieces of reinforcement, pieces of plaster from it. In general, make sure that, although somewhat unsightly, it will be a solid foundation for a new design. Well, of course, remove all dust and dirt.

Preparing a new window

Professionals install PVC windows almost always without dismantling them. Which is quite understandable, because they already have a lot of experience. It is better for a home craftsman to play it safe and remove the opening doors from the hinges, and remove the double-glazed windows themselves from the deaf ones. Many are afraid of this procedure, nevertheless there is nothing difficult in it. To remove the sash, you just need to remove the pin located in the upper hinge. To remove it, it is enough to have only pliers (picked up and pulled). And then remove the sash from the lower hinge. As for glass, there are no difficulties here either. It is only at first glance that a PVC window seems to be a monolithic structure. In fact, in it there are exactly the same as in the wooden glazing beads. This is a plastic frame over the glass. It is enough just to pick them up with a knife and push them out of the grooves. Then get the glass.

Of course, the installation of large structures is not always required. In private houses, a single-leaf small window is sometimes replaced. In this case, you can not be puzzled and proceed with the installation without disassembling it.

After the window is prepared, you need to remove the protective film from the outside. All. You can proceed directly to the installation.

Installation types

There are two of them. The simplest is to attach the frame directly to the opening using dowels. The second is installation using anchoring elements, which are first mounted to the inside of the frame, and then attached to the opening. Professional craftsmen in some cases combine both methods presented, which does not contradict the requirements of technology. We will try to tell you in detail about both options.

Technology

First, construction wedges are laid out on the lower surface of the opening, that is, in the place where the window sill will be located. The prepared frame is inserted into the opening, leveled with a building level and marked. That is, they mark on the wall itself the location of either the holes for the dowels or fastening anchors. Then the frame is retracted. Further, the sequence of actions depends on the chosen installation method. If you plan to fix it with dowels, then a hole of the corresponding diameter is drilled at the place of the marks. In the same cases when installation using anchor plates is provided, professionals recommend first hollowing out recesses under them, and only then drilling holes for self-tapping screws. Why is this needed? Yes, so that these same plates do not protrude very much above the surface of the slopes. If this happens, it will significantly complicate the finishing process.

When everything is ready, the frame is reinserted. Just before that, you need to glue it on the sides with a waterproof tape. Then the frame is fixed on the sides with construction wedges, carefully aligned. After that, the anchor fasteners are finally fixed (either directly with dowels, or with self-tapping screws). Moreover, experts do not recommend tightening these elements too much. It is even better if the head of the anchor or dowel protrudes a millimeter above the surface. As soon as it becomes clear that the structure is solid and set exactly in level, the removed glass and sashes are returned to their place. After that, with the help of polyurethane foam, the gaps on the sides and on top are filled, without forgetting to remove the wedges.

As for the foam itself. It should be filled carefully so that no voids remain. However, it is not recommended and do it in excess. Therefore, it is best, especially given that this is the debut of a home master, to carry out this procedure with short breaks. Filled half a meter - a little adored, at least twenty minutes. Foam tends to expand over time. And if you made a mistake the first time, then later it will be much easier to regulate its supply.

From the outside, after the installation of the window is completed, an ebb is installed. For the same foam. And for greater confidence, they are also screwed to the construction wedges with self-tapping screws, which, as you remember, remained with us at the bottom of the structure. As for the window sill, first it is measured in length, and the excess is cut off. Then they are inserted under the lower edge of the frame. It is enough to bring the window sill under the window just two or three centimeters. From below the window sill foams.

Important! If there is a very large gap between the window sill and the lower edge of the window opening, then it is not recommended to fill it all with foam. It is best to lay wooden blocks. Or even bricks. And after that, fix the structure with foam, while not forgetting, of course, to set it in level.

This completes the installation process. Now it is better to forget about the double-glazed window for a day and not touch it, so that by slamming the sashes of the new window for no reason, not to violate the integrity of the structure. After that, you can start removing excess foam and finishing the slopes.

Installation of a PVC window in a wooden house

There are some nuances here, which are due to the fact that wooden buildings, due to the peculiarities of the material from which they were built, are capable of shrinking. Logs are able to practically move at a temperature drop, contributing to deformation of window and door openings, walls, etc. That can cause all kinds of flaws in the glass units. It is for this reason that they are not installed at all in the first year after the end of construction. PVC windows in a wooden house, in addition, are not mounted directly in the window opening itself, but in a special structure. It is called casing. Simply put: first, a special wooden frame is made from a well-dried material. Then it is inserted into the window opening, aligned and secured. After that, a PVC window is already installed in it. This will reliably protect the glass unit from deformation and flaws. That, you see, is very important, especially when you consider the cost that PVC windows have. The prices for even the simplest designs, albeit not exorbitant, are still impressive - on average, a small window costs about two hundred dollars. And under such protection, the window is not afraid of any shrinkage. The only thing to consider is that experts recommend leaving a larger gap between the window and the casing - at least 5 centimeters on each side. In all other respects, the process of installing a double-glazed window is the same as described above.

Installation of PVC windows on the balcony

The glazing of the balcony also has some specifics. If an integral structure is inserted into the window opening, then on the balcony the PVC frame consists of several parts that need to be fastened together. This is done with the help of anchor rails, and some experts additionally recommend smearing the joints with liquid nails. Since the lower part of the windows is installed directly on the railings, it is necessary to carefully check their integrity and strength before installation. And, if necessary, carry out the necessary repairs. After that, a frame is built from a wooden beam, firmly fixing it around the entire perimeter of the balcony. Then a visor is attached from above from the outside. Next, PVC windows are mounted, which are attached directly to the timber. First, the front group is installed, after which they proceed to the installation of the side ones. With regard to the method of attachment, use either of the two described above at your own discretion. The only thing to consider is that it is better to make at least four attachment points on the sides, and at least three on top of one window. The gaps are also foamed, after which an ebb is installed on the outside, and a window sill from the inside. As you can see, everything is pretty simple.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible about how to install a PVC window in a concrete opening, in a wooden house and on a balcony. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the procedure. With skillful hands, it is quite easy to deal with. We hope that now, after you have read the detailed instructions, the installation process will be quick and easy.

Before starting installation work, you must completely free the window opening and the space next to it:

remove everything from the windowsill,
remove the curtains,
clear the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters away from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with a cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through the extension cord, prepare garbage bags.

Dismantling the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The sashes are removed from the window. Dismantle window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock off) the slopes.

The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you want to use old windows, for example, in the country, you should agree on the option of keeping old windows when ordering.

The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed on anchor bolts or mounting plates. In this case, it should be strictly observed that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be level vertically). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. The foam serves both as an insulating function and as a fastening element. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam should be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, taking into account the expansion rate of the foam.

Installing a plastic window in most cases means that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when the apartment (house, room) is being renovated and the window sill can be installed on its own.

If the window to be mounted opens onto the balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of an ebb (from the outside of the window).

If you have a good old ebb tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will need to be restored (restored) - a paid service, the cost of which is slightly different from the cost of a new ebb tide.

The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the support profile). If the opening under the windowsill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, it is necessary to masonry or seal the opening with mortar. When installing a window sill (window sill), control that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is no more than 60 mm.

When installing the window sill, it should be borne in mind that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice:when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be borne in mind that the window sill is "recessed" by 2 cm under the window frame, therefore the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and after it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from moisture penetration into it, as well as from damaging solar exposure.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, for the finishing of the opening there are not enough slopes (which are both a decorative addition, under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element that increases the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, moreover, it is the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day with a window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

Either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the picture) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable platbands are used as slopes.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. The choice of VEKA plastic slopes is justified for more accurate gluing of wallpaper with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden underneath.

Advice: if you have a renovation in your apartment, then it is better to install the trims on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing accessories on windows

At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation of additional accessories, fastening of additional fittings and components, such as: a stepped ventilator, retainer, mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an acceptance certificate is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing PVC windows.

In terms of functionality, a plastic window is much better than old wooden windows. If you follow simple instructions for its care and use, it will serve you forever.

Don't forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removal of the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be carried out after the installation of products and the finishing of the mounting opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If repair work is still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties under heat and UV exposure and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General requirements for installation in accordance with GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of assembly units for joining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions ”was put into effect by the order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.

Due to the need to adjust the design documentation for design and construction organizations, the transition period for the development of GOST was established until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan have joined the Russian norms.

What's new?New standards bring significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have "Instructions for the installation of windows", approved by local authorities, the need to develop assembly assemblies of windows for each facility under construction and coordination of assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze the thermal fields, as well as the registration of delivery certificates - acceptance of window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acts of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.

Of particular interest in the standards are the Appendices:

Appendix A (recommended) presents drawings with examples of window installation;
Appendix B (recommended) sets forth requirements for fastening windows in openings;
Appendix B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows in general and, in fact, is the main working document;
Appendix D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (isotherm analysis).

In general, the Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires a large number of formalities from window firms and has more requirements for testing joint structures and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

The testing of materials and seams as a whole is justified by the fact that so far in Russia there have been no detailed installation standards at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, for the consumer there is no need to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the duty of professionals.

Without delving into the intricacies, we can talk about three basic principles of installing windows, which should be paid close attention.

Three layers of joint

The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings on the basis of the principle "from the inside is denser than from the outside." Each assembly unit must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection against climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. You can use different materials for the outer layers and different polyurethane foams, but, in one version or another, these three embedding planes must be present.

Outer layer is designed to protect the insulation layer from moisture penetration into it, and must be vapor permeable so that there is ventilation of the insulation through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. In the best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing strips). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before installing it in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the leaks of the quarter in the opening.

With serious advantages: optimal construction physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction when the opening has good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plastering, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not apply to the PSUL.

Limited use of silicone outside is possible. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint to be filled, and the silicone should be glued only on both sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.

A sealant can be used when insulating an assembly seam. Although, it is not clearly spelled out in the GOST, but there is no ban on its use, no matter how much the supporters of mounting tapes want. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anoint with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.

Central layer - heat insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams made specifically for window installations. These foams fill the joint evenly and do not need to be trimmed once they have set. Other foams, after the installation is completed, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

The inner layer - vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from moisture vapor penetration into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes, mainly based on butyl, are used, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture-resistant drywalls. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

Lack of cold bridges

The assembly seam is a knot where the joining of wall and window structures with completely different properties, including in terms of heat engineering, takes place. And it is important to execute the nodes in such a way that cold bridges do not appear on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of past years (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low resistance to heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, there are high heat losses, and secondly, condensate falls out on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then later on these places may form a fungus (mold). The same applies to quarter-cut openings. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here you should especially carefully consider the heating technology of the junction nodes.

An important recommendation is to use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm in the absence of quarters. With a narrow window frame, high-quality seam sealing is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the casing are possible only if there is external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.

If there is an effective insulation in the wall (mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam), the window should stand either in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not arise due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window unit in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when the windows are heated by the sun's rays, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As the calculated values \u200b\u200bof thermal expansion for white windows, 1.5 mm per 1 running meter should be used, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the extreme fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from the inner corners of the frames. The rest of the fasteners are placed along the entire perimeter with a step for white profiles no more than 70 cm, for colored ones no more than 60 cm. Near the imposts, fasteners are also placed at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due to both thermal expansion of the windows and the fact that it is very difficult to fill a thinner seam with foam insulation evenly.

Carrying blocks are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The pads are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one pivot sash, the pads are placed on the side opposite to the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two flaps, respectively, four pads are placed.

Schematic diagrams of nodes of junction of window frames to walls

1 - window board;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block for the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - a dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower unit);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant in a thin layer

1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - interior slope finishing panel;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, showcases, glazing to the entire floor height. These are three basic principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on the various wall designs and on the materials used for sealing the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - the responsible and high-quality work of the installers.

When can you install windows

With the entry into force of Moscow Law No. 42 "On Silence", disturbing the peace of the neighbors is an administrative violation. Please carefully read our instructions for conducting noisy work in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much is the installation of windows in accordance with GOST

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The assembly seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, using both expensive and economical materials. The use of this or that will affect the staging (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.

Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows

If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. It takes about 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure, if you have no experience in this matter. For an employee of the company who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.

Window system complete set

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First you need to find out all the names of the parts and materials. The main supporting part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more cameras

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles that are manufactured in the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to opt for good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood-like, brown. Products from a colored profile will be more expensive than white.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of the window block is the frame

The plastic window structure includes the following details:

frame - the main structural part;
if you have a large window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the part that opens is called a sash;
double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed down with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
fittings are always used - this is a special set of swing-out mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
on the inside of the frame, ventilated drainage holes are made, which are covered with caps. Moisture generated by the temperature difference on the street and inside the room gets through them outside;
another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Can I install the window myself

It is believed that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. I must say that this is not the case. What do you need to know when installing? To carry out these works, no special professional tools and equipment are needed, a huge experience. The procedure includes two main points:

dismantling the old window block;
installation of a new window.

Dismantling an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself windows installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to make a choice in favor of the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.

If you have installed the tilt-and-turn windows yourself, this voids your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from a manufacturer who has been working on the market for a long time and has good reviews from customers. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a warranty for the fittings of about 5 years. If you install it yourself, you can get a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order for the installation of windows in a brick house, cinder block, gas-block or apartment to be done, you first need to make an order for a swing-out or deaf structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step by step instructions for correct measurement

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the structure

Before proceeding with the measurement, do not miss an important point - what kind of opening you have: with a quarter or without. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then there is a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will need to be measured in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.

Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with a quarter or without

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For the ebb, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the battery.

In addition, when making an order, you need to decide from which components your design will be made: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows you need, how they will open, on which side the wood grouse is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.... In apartments, from floor to window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of that part of the balcony, on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance is required for the installation of the corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or on the loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.

How to correctly measure windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during dismantling, the structure will simultaneously extract part of the materials that filled the space.

Preparation for the installation of a window structure

After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. In the presence of large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.

Before installation, you will need to clean the base

After finishing work with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, the installation of which is to be done. To do this, it is necessary to remove the sash of the window, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame is small, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes... The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is positioned vertically and fixed in this position with spacers.

Installation of both fixed windows and those with opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without design cuts. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and most reliable.

When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where the anchors are then driven in

Anchors and support blocks fastening points

If the installation is carried out without unscrewing the frame, the window is fixed using special ones, which are attached to the profile, and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it should be borne in mind that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may be skewed or it may sag. If the decision is made to mount on a plate, thick, wide options are worth choosing. Please note that if the region in which you live is distinguished by a strong wind load or the installation of windows at a height is to be done, then it is worth using the option with unscrewing the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances for placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed at a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening... If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done before the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to select the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be observed:

having inserted the frame, set it to a level using support and spacer pads;
then attached to the wall;
after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
then you need to check the normal operation of the sashes and all mechanisms, for this open and close the window;
after everything has been checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this they are used.

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, it is necessary to create, it can be a special film that must be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam dries, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing foam into the gap.

In order for the correct installation to be performed both on windows and, follow the simple rules:

we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or attach it to screws;
the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
the level is leveled with the help of special pads, after which the space under the windowsill is blown out with foam or filled with a solution.

According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Errors that can be made when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing a structure so that it has a long term of use:

it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the anti-burglar resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the glass unit can be removed;
you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures in the level during the installation of the window, otherwise it will be difficult to open and close the sashes;
it is imperative to protect the polyurethane foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam would be wrong: it is imperative to fix it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

Observing all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.