How to install a toilet with side holes. Fixing the toilet to the floor: an overview of possible methods and step-by-step instructions

The toilet is an integral part of the plumbing unit in any apartment or private house. Installing a toilet is not a difficult process, but it requires some accuracy and some skills. To understand the mechanism of the cistern and how it is assembled from separate parts is only half or even a third of the matter. In addition to this and connection to utilities, the plumbing must be securely fastened to the toilet in the toilet. Do you want to know how it goes to the floor, like the rest of the operations for its arrangement? Here's how you can do it.

Varieties of toilets

Before proceeding directly to the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor, consider what types of this sanitary ware exist. Among themselves, they are classified according to a number of characteristics:

• bowl and tank design;
• direction of release;
• material of manufacture;
• dimensions and weight of the product.

Let's start with the design of the cistern and toilet bowl - the main types of plumbing that differ in this regard are presented in the table below.

Table. The main types of toilet bowls by design.

Tank type	Description, advantages and disadvantages
	The most popular design among older toilets. The bowl and the cistern are spaced a considerable distance from each other, the latter is usually located under the ceiling of the toilet. Advantages: good water pressure when flushing, the cistern located under the ceiling does not take up the useful space of an already small toilet. Disadvantages: loud noise when flushing. In addition, access to the reservoir for repairs is difficult.
	To date, the most common toilet design - the tank is attached to the rear edge (where the ledge and bolt holes are located) of the bowl and is adjacent to the toilet wall. Advantages: ease of maintenance and repair, less noise when flushing compared to a separate toilet. Disadvantage: slightly lower water pressure during operation.
	Both the cistern and the toilet bowl are made in the form of a single piece, they do not need to be fastened to each other. Dignity: reliability - missing connections of the tank and bowl cannot become places of leaks. As with the compact toilet, easy to maintain. Disadvantage: any damage to the tank or bowl will require a complete replacement of the product - it will not be possible to install new parts separately.
	To install the toilet, a metal frame is used, fixed on a concrete or brick wall. A tank is installed inside, and a bowl is attached outside. Then the frame is closed with a decorative plasterboard and tile wall. Advantages: attractive appearance, compactness. Disadvantages: when arranging it, a lot of time and effort is needed, and repairing the tank will require dismantling the false wall.

Varieties of toilets by the type of connection to the sewer. The horizontal outlet is suitable for toilets where the drain is hidden behind a plasterboard wall. The vertical structure is considered obsolete today, but earlier it was used in those houses where the sewage system was laid in the floors. Oblique release is often used in panel apartment buildings

Toilet bowls are made from the following materials:

• faience - cheap and fragile, service life is about 15 years;
• porcelain - more expensive than faience, but stronger, more beautiful and more durable;
• reinforced acrylic - lightweight, strong and durable, but does not survive contact with high temperatures in the best way;
• steel - sturdy material, suitable for a toilet in a public place.

Now let's move on to the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor:

• fixing the toilet with dowels;
• fixing the toilet with glue or sealant;
• installation on cement;
• fastening the toilet bowl to taffeta;
• installation of plumbing fixtures on a frame hidden behind a false wall.

Toilet prices

Fixing the toilet to the floor with dowels

The most common way to install the toilet on the toilet floor is with wall plugs and bolts. This is a practical and relatively simple method, but it has two problems. First, you need to drill the tiles. This event requires special care and accuracy - any mistake will lead to damage to the flooring. The second problem of fixing plumbing fixtures to dowels is that this method of installation is designed for relatively light products. Therefore, if you have a heavy toilet, it is better to use glue.

But back to the dowels and screws - in order to use them to fix the toilet on the floor yourself, you will need the following tools:

• tape measure;
• marker or pencil for marking;
• electric drill;
• drill for concrete (it is desirable to have a spare tool as well);
• microfiber rag or napkin;
• ammonia.

In some cases, you may also need a sealant and a glue gun, or a small sheet of linoleum. And now we will outline the process of attaching the toilet to the floor on the dowels step by step.

Step 1. "Try on" the toilet, making a preliminary installation in the place where it should be. Evaluate how convenient it is to use it, and the points of connection of the water supply to the tank. Try wobbling the toilet bowl to see if the floor is even underneath.

Important! If the floor is not even enough and the toilet is shaking, then before fixing the plumbing on the dowels, you need to put a sheet of linoleum under it, cut along the contour of the bowl support. But there is an alternative option - processing the joint with silicone sealant. And in some cases, the problem may not be in the floor, but in the toilet itself. In this case, the product support is cleaned and leveled with an emery cloth.

Step 2. Using a tape measure, determine the place where the toilet should be, more precisely. Make preliminary marks in the holes for the fasteners.

Step 3. Remove the toilet from this place and make sufficiently large and noticeable marks in the form of crosses from the previously applied dots.

Step 4. Prepare a drill with a drill bit for concrete. First, drill holes in the tiles. In this case, the drill should work at low speeds, and all work should be done extremely carefully so that cracks and other damage to the tiles do not occur in the process.

Step 5. Then finish the holes, but in the concrete floor. Either set a higher RPM on the drill, or replace it with a hammer drill, which will do much better for this task.

Step 6. Clean the tiles at the installation site of the toilet from dust and other contaminants formed during the drilling of the holes for the dowels. Also, do not forget to degrease the surface with ammonia.

Step 7. Insert dowels into the previously drilled holes.

Step 8. Check if the screws from the toilet kit fit properly into the wall plugs. If for some reason their quality does not suit you, replace the fasteners with your own.

Step 9. Replace the toilet. Check that the holes in the tiles are aligned with those in the bowl support of the sanitary ware.

Step 10. Insert the screws into the wall plugs through the holes in the toilet support. Do not forget to have plastic or rubber washers. Tighten the bolts, but be careful when overtightening there is a risk of damaging the toilet itself. The last thing to do is to cover the fastener caps with decorative plastic overlays. After that, fixing the toilet to the floor on the dowels with your own hands can be considered complete.

You may be interested in information on how to replace

In terms of popularity, this method of installing a toilet bowl can compete with the installation of plumbing fixtures and screws. Here, specialized building adhesives are used, purchased in the corresponding stores, or mixtures based on epoxy resin, prepared independently. Also, very often, ordinary silicone sealant is used to fix the toilet.

The popularity of this method of installing a plumbing product is due to some of its advantages.

1. Installation cleanliness - no dust or dirt will form when the toilet is placed on the glue. There is no need to spend energy later on cleaning the bathroom.
2. Safety - in the process of installing the toilet with glue, there is practically no risk of damaging the sanitary ware or the tiles on the toilet floor.
3. Simplicity - in the previous method of fastening, for successful drilling of tiles, you need to have some experience in the repair business. Here he is not required - you just need to be able to handle a glue gun.
4. Reliability - the toilet, installed on glue or sealant, will not wobble.

At the same time, it should be understood that this method of installing plumbing will require some patience - after the toilet is placed on the glue, it will not be possible to use it for 12-20 hours.

To fix the plumbing to the floor, you will need the following materials and tools:

• tape measure and square;
• marker or pencil;
• glue gun;
• narrow spatula;
• small rag;
• spray bottle with soapy water;
• emery cloth;
• ammonia;
• glue or silicone sealant for fixing the toilet.

Let's imagine to the floor with our own hands in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Perform a preliminary "fitting" of the toilet bowl in the toilet - put it on a cardboard so as not to accidentally damage the tiles and imagine how to mount this sanitary product in the best way. Consider how comfortable it is for you to sit on it, how difficult it is to provide access to the sewer and connect the water supply to the tank.

Step 2. Center the toilet using a corner or tape measure. Note how many centimeters the plumbing should move away from the left and right walls of the toilet, respectively.

Step 3. Remove the cardboard box from under the toilet and re-align it against the toilet walls. To do this, use, as in the previous step, a tape measure or corner.

Important! When aligning the toilet bowl with the toilet walls, do not forget about the cistern - it should also be positioned as level as possible. Check if the holes are coaxial, with the help of which both parts of the sanitary ware will connect to each other in the future.

Step 4. Use a marker or pencil to trace the part of the toilet bowl that is adjacent to the floor in the toilet.

Step 5. Using a knife or emery cloth, clean the edge of the toilet seat so that it becomes perfectly flat and provides a better "grip" with the adhesive.

Interesting! In some cases, it is justified to sand the part of the tile to which the toilet bowl support will adjoin. But at the same time, be careful - do not go over the edge of the line marked in one of the previous steps with an abrasive and do not ruin the tile.

Step 6. Treat the tiles in the place where the toilet is installed with ammonia to degrease the surface. Then wipe dry with a microfiber cloth.

Step 7. Gently apply adhesive or silicone sealant (as in this case) to the edge of the toilet bowl support. The composition should be exactly as much as necessary - if there is a shortage, the fixing of the sanitary ware to the floor will be fragile, and in case of excess, there is a possibility of staining the tiles.

Step 8. Transfer the toilet with the adhesive on the bowl support to the toilet and gently lower it to the spot marked in one of the previous steps with a marker. It is advisable to do this work not alone, but with an assistant - otherwise, there is a great risk of smearing the tiles next to the plumbing with glue or sealant and fixing the product in the wrong way.

Step 9. Spray soapy water from a spray bottle around the toilet seat. This is necessary so that when cutting off excess sealant, the latter does not stick to the tile.

Step 10. Moisten the spatula with the same soapy water that was discussed in the previous step of attaching the toilet to the floor. Then use this tool to remove any remaining glue or sealant.

Step 11. Wait a while, from 12 to 24 hours, for the glue, sealant or other compound you used to fix the toilet to set and dry. Until this time, it is undesirable to somehow move or even touch the plumbing. You can read in our article.

Step 12. After the adhesive composition finally grasps with the tiles, continue the installation of the toilet - connect the plumbing to the sewer, and bring the water supply to it, fix a seat with a lid on the product, etc.

Important! As mentioned above, you can make your own glue for attaching the toilet to the floor. To do this, warm up to + 50 ° C 20 parts of epoxy resin, then add 4 parts of solvent and 7 parts of hardener to it. Stir them and then add 40 parts of cement. Stir everything again until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Use the product as an adhesive as soon as possible - after 1.5-2 hours the mixture will lose its properties and begin to harden.

Video - Mounting the toilet on silicone

Other ways to install the toilet

In addition to those mentioned in the previous sections, there are other ways to secure the toilet to the floor. However, for one reason or another, they are less popular. Let's make a brief overview.

Previously, a very popular way to fix the toilet was bricking with concrete - a small depression was made in the floor, plumbing was installed there and its lower part was covered with mortar. Very often, products assembled in this way can be found in old multi-storey buildings (if the residents did not carry out). Fastening in this way is quite reliable; it is relatively easy to carry out.

But the method has two extremely serious problems. The first is the unattractive appearance of the joint between the toilet bowl installed in this way and the floor. The second problem of fixing plumbing fixtures to concrete is the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the product without damage. In fact, to remove a toilet installed in this way, it will have to be broken. Therefore, with the advent of modern building bites and sealants, the method has lost its relevance.

Another outdated way of attaching the toilet to the floor is with taffeta. It consists of a wooden substrate, about 5 cm high, installed in a recess with concrete mortar. On the underside of the taffeta, a large number of nails or anchors are installed. With their help, a wooden substrate immersed in a recess is fixed in a concrete solution. And only then, a toilet bowl is installed on the taffeta itself and fixed with screws.

Important! When installing plumbing fixtures on a wooden substrate, remember that the toilet and bathroom are rooms with high humidity. Do not forget to treat the taffeta with linseed oil or varnish so that it does not get damp and worn out too quickly.

And the last method of attaching the toilet, but not entirely related to the floor, is suspended installation. In this case, a metal frame is erected near the toilet wall (most often included in a set with hinged plumbing fixtures). The toilet bowl is connected to it and produced. At the same time, the frame itself and the sanitary ware tank are hidden behind a false wall made of plasterboard and tiles. The result is a compact and attractive mount. But the implementation of this method requires a lot of time and money.

The choice of the above methods of attaching the toilet to the floor depends only on your personal preferences. In order for your toilet to last longer, we advise you to purchase one. In any case, with a smart approach to business and competent installation, your plumbing will last for many years and will firmly stand in its place.

Toilet fixing scheme with taffeta

Epoxy is the best toilet glue

Modern technologies for the manufacture of plumbing fixtures allow us to fill the building materials market with a variety of models of toilet bowls.

Sanitary appliances differ in modifications of cisterns, material of manufacture (porcelain, faience), fastening device, location of water supply and drain outlet. In most cases, bathrooms and toilets are tiled.

The walls and floors are covered with tiles. How to fix the toilet on the tiled floor so that it stands firmly on its base? In this article, we will provide the reader with information on how best to do this.

Preparatory work before installing the toilet

Get a comfortable toilet tube length

The drain sink is installed when the wall and floor tiles are finished.

If you install the plumbing first, and then proceed with the installation of ceramic flooring, then you will have to deal with a rather complicated cut in the slabs to bypass the base of the pedestal of the plumbing fixture.

This will cause the risk of deterioration of the cladding if the selection of cut tiles is not correct.

When tiling walls and floors with ceramic tiles, you need to achieve a convenient length of the protrusion from the wall of the water pipe.

The outlet of the water pipe must be such that a stopcock can be fitted.

The drain can protrude both from the wall and from the floor. The sewer socket must ensure a tight connection with the corrugation.

Required tools and materials

To successfully complete this task, you should acquire patience and prepare the following set of tools:

• puncher, drill;
• marker;
• drills for glass and ceramics;
• screwdrivers;
• sealant;
• spanners;
• adjustable wrench and collar heads;
• dowels with self-tapping screws;
• pliers;
• corrugated pipe;
• crane;
• core;
• grinder with an abrasive wheel;
• connecting hose.

Related article: Electrician style interior. Stylish furniture and soft fabrics.

Installing a toilet bowl on a tiled floor

Toilet installation

The installation of a toilet bowl on a tiled floor is done in different ways, depending on the position of the mounting holes in the sink pedestal.

There are three options for attaching a plumbing fixture to a ceramic floor covering:

Installation of a toilet bowl with vertical fastening

Most models of sinks are made with mounting holes for vertical fasteners. The installation of the sink is carried out in several stages:

Before installing the toilet, check the horizontal position of the installation site. If no deviations are found, then the cleaning of the base of the pedestal and the tile along the contour of the support of the sink is not done.

Lateral fixation of the toilet

Installing a toilet with side mounting holes is slightly different from installing a washbasin with vertical fasteners.

The difference is that the mounting parts are hidden under the instrument pedestal.

Install such a model of the device as follows:

Bonding the toilet bowl base

This installation method is used if the base of the floor is equipped with a heating system. There is a risk of damage to the heating equipment when drilling the mounting holes. For more details on the work, see this video:

In this case, cleaning the base of the pedestal and the surface of the ceramic tiles along the circumference of the toilet bowl support is required. This is done to increase the adhesion of the bonded surfaces.

Press the toilet firmly to the floor

The toilet is glued to the tiled surface with liquid nails. The surfaces are covered with glue, then they are pressed against each other.

The toilet is removed from the installation site and placed on its side. Withstand the time specified in the instructions. Then they put the sink in place, press it to the floor.

The rest of the installation work is performed in the same way as in the previous cases.

You can start installing a toilet bowl on a tiled floor yourself only if you have the skills and experience in this type of work.

Implementation means: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet bowl; 2. Dismantling the old toilet bowl; 3. Preparation of the surface for fastening; 4. Installation of a toilet bowl; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Pressing
All these points are interconnected, they can be said not separate.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You should carefully read and apply in practice, and what the result will turn out to be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and buying a toilet

Toilet bowls are divided:

By appointment

- for children (small size, painted in various colors, common use in preschool institutions)
- for people with disabilities (added handrails, armrests, have a wide bowl, adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- suspended
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By release

- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (into the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
- hi-tech

By body material

- sanitary faience
- san porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

By installing the tank

- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
The tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
And also with a water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally by color

Here, as the saying goes, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can find at least a burmaline gray.

I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important in my opinion for this article, namely: the direction of release of the toilet bowl, and the double mode of flushing the tank.

Discharge direction from the toilet

Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or out of the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the bell, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom.
In the photo, visually what I'm talking about:
Agree that in this case, a toilet bowl with an oblique outlet is more suitable, the wall would have approached two or three hundred millimeters, at least. I have encountered such situations more than once, and not even two, I installed a "carriage and a small cart" for my activity. You come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is completely impossible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not think. What to do in this case? He really can't run to change. You have to sacrifice something, as in the photo - a useful area.
But then, since you are reading the article, do not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and cistern for cracks and chips.
Examine carefully the internal cavities of both the cistern and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the toilet bowl outlet, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: a seat, anchorage to the floor (wall). If the package does not have a seat, match the shape.
If you have delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

In case of visual detection of a defect, refuse to purchase, believe me it is very offensive, after installing the device, ascertain the puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for smarky.
Buy a flexible hose (hose) to connect to the water pipe here. If you do not have a faucet separately shutting off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend purchasing and installing it.

Toilet cistern

Basically, the cisterns come with a toilet, I think you yourself will decide which option is most acceptable to you - hinged, either installed on the toilet, or hidden.
Let me just focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can adjust the water drain. I see no reason to explain when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide for the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The efficiency of water consumption is evident.

Dismantling an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, so it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if it is necessary to purchase any part, the stores work up to a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing - we make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilet bowls, the CD can not be removed, but as it is, we will send it to the trash. We inspect the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the outlet of the toilet bowl is usually embedded in concrete, make sure there are no cracks, if they are present, then dismantle it with caution.

We unscrew the fastening of the toilet to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. It is impossible to loosen, we break the neck with the sharp end of a hammer in the immediate vicinity of the bell, the blows are not to say that they are strong, but there is no hell to be liberal either.
We split it, removed the pot, we take out all this economy. In order to avoid injuries by fragments of faience, sweep the bathroom.

Second step - embossing the cast-iron socket, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Wearing safety glasses, we get rid of foreign materials without tricky manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the flare is cleaned, the less chance of leakage in this place when using a newly installed toilet.
We strive for the following result:

But what if we are waiting for this - "surprise" - an additional insert? And it is necessary to remove it, well, "bleeding from the nose", but we are pursuing the goal of installing the toilet professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Attention

In no case do we grab the hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where it would be desirable. Breaking this rule is fraught with costly and time consuming problems.

To help we take a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the "hollow-drill" mode we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the insert pipe.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow drilling freely, in this case we cut off the insert in the immediate vicinity of the socket with a grinder, but remember: cutting off you are deprived of the possibility of loosening, so to speak, therefore we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn out.

Burning out is appropriate if the cavity was caulked or filled with sulfur, if filled with concrete or lead - the method does not work.

Before proceeding with the burning out, we ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and the absence of flammable agents and materials nearby. The video will clearly show how this is done:

If that doesn't work, there is only one way to get rid of that fucking insert: cut. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the insert at the very bell, visually find a thin place of the “residue” and aim at it. We put on the grinder a small (already ground off when performing other work) circle and make cuts from the inside. Two closely spaced cuts in the thinnest place you make trying along the entire length of the "remainder", that is, there, inward. You can cut out a fragment of the type - kerchiefs, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then, by tapping with a hammer, tear off the remaining piece from our "familiar" place. If there are further difficulties with removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the stamp is behind.

Guys, if anyone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills in using a grinder, then here is a link to a photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Disassembling cast-iron waste pipes turned out to be a problem
And waiting for us next step.

Surface preparation for fastening

The toilet was installed on a solid surface - great, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - to taffeta.
Taffeta is a board, fifty millimeters thick, embedded in the floor; in the old days, it was on it with screws or nails that a toilet was fastened. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will figure this out. Remove the taffeta, clean the liberated cavity. The involved tool to the side.

We mix the mortar from a mixture of sand with cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement for four parts of sand, my advice to you is dilute one part of cement into three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening ...
We fill the cavity with the solution, even with the floor surface, but we have no time to wait until it grabs, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed practically every hour.
Each apartment has a stove, let it be electric or gas, we take out the baking sheet from the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.

Is the broom close at hand? We sweep out the trash. Remember, workplace mess leads to injury.
We pass to the next stage.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close to the sewer as possible, and with the minimum use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). It does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings with which you can "play". For now, let's look at the connection directly.
We will connect with a pipe that is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the branch pipe with technical vaseline or elementary water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the branch pipe has sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and use our imagination to draw the trajectory of the coaxiality of the outlet of the toilet bowl and the inlet sewer. Moving further or moving closer the device, we achieve the best comparability - actually when - the bell at an angle. Have you got it? Throw on the tank and make sure it fits without hitting the wall.
We take a tape measure, we start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that we put from the landing of the pipe on the neck and the size we need will be. We postpone this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the cut. That's it, the connecting piece is ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it on the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before you smear, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut out a small fragment from it, it does not fit in full size. If so, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Next: we coat the cuff driven into the tee from the inside with a sealant, press the pipe until it stops. We coat the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All the pot is in place.

I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:

If it is impossible to do without this, then feet in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Corrugated pipes for the toilet are also on sale, they are reinforced and not reinforced, if any suits you, then please use, but this is not an ideal connection.

At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a tap, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, then now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually make sure of the tightness of the joints, if there is a "joint", then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

We pass to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

With the new toilet there is an instruction, study and in accordance with it, assemble the tank, if the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure it is tightened, tighten if necessary. Do not be too zealous, all the same you are dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic is a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: the inlet of water, with a float stopping its supply when the set displacement is reached, and the drain device (some have two-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I will tell you only one thing: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, so it is not always appropriate to coat it with a sealant, but only when it is necessary to do without it, whether it is necessary or not, will the pressure test reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with even force.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the setting of various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to avoid touching the reinforcement elements, both with each other and with the walls of the tank.

We open the tap and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and float are regulated, using simple movements above - below, set the filling and drain modes that are convenient for you. Make sure the float blocks the water before it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the release button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible hose with inlet device
- inlet valve with tank body
- cistern with a toilet through the gasket
- bolts of fastening the tank to the toilet by means of tapered gaskets
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric) with a cuff
- cuffs with a flared sewer tee
- toilet bowl and baking sheet

With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing device must simply work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, collecting puddles, then naturally - to eliminate.

Three examples, so to speak, not foreseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many "gurus" of plumbing, advise initially not to coat the rubber gasket between the cistern and the toilet with sealant. It is not at all inappropriate out of fear of smearing everything or "hands-on" - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when plastered, it slides, and when trying to tighten the fastening bolts, it slides out of its place.
So, if a leak is detected from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, slightly press down along the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin stream of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if the norm, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- missing or jammed cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube;
- the saddle is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the seats of the saddle gasket are rough, having smeared the gasket with sealant get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven fit of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet bowl.

Well, let's not talk about sad things, they pressurized, everything is in order. The only task left is to fix our toilet to the floor.

You will have to do this after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We shut off the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently shifted, mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and screw them on. We pull in without applying much effort.

In case of uneven adhesion to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
To avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, the place where the toilet bowl adheres to the floor around the entire perimeter is coated with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Installation tools:

So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
- open-end wrenches 10 * 12, 13 * 14
- roulette
- hammer drill with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder who does not have the skills to use, we replace it with a sheet for metal, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- sanitary sealant, linen or fum tape

Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:

Well, that's all dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet on your own? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Weigh your possibilities again, think about whether it is worth getting involved with, it might be easier to pay a plumber a third of the cost of a pot, and calmly drink beer in front of the TV?
And then I look at articles on the Internet darkness, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes - simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

There were any questions, or there is something to add to the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles, the form will open when scrolling down the page, I assure there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that's all for me today, success in editing, with respect

Usually, the fixing of the toilet to the floor is carried out during the construction phase and is carried out by professionals. However, during operation, sometimes there is a need to replace equipment, and here the owners sometimes find themselves in a dead end.

Someone immediately turns to a company that provides the appropriate services, but some home craftsmen decide to save money and make the rearrangement on their own. There are no big difficulties in this, and the installation methods are quite accessible even for people who do not have extensive experience in repair work behind them.

In this article, we will talk about the different ways of attaching the toilet to the floor, as well as what tools and materials you will need for this.

There are several different ways to attach the toilet to the floor.

The most popular are:

• landing on the installation kit (dowels);
• the use of various adhesives;
• installation on cement mortar;
• fixation on taffeta;
• side mount.

The choice, first of all, depends on the quality of the floor in the toilet or bathroom and on the material of its final coating, since the same method of fastening is not relevant for all surfaces. Features and nuances of different installation options depend on the design and type of discharge into the sewer.

A standard installation kit (dowel-screw) is included with the toilet bowls of almost all modifications. It is suitable for mounting equipment, but it provides for planting the compact on an absolutely flat surface that does not have errors and slopes.

Plumbing fixtures attached to the floor in this way have good structural stability and do not sway even during intensive use. However, the method is not suitable for all models and is usually applied to small size and light weight toilets.

After purchasing a toilet, it must be attached to the floor. There are two types of fixings for the product and it is impossible to tell which is the best method. It all depends on the wishes of the person.

How to attach a toilet to the floor on a tile

1. Open. The installations are reliable and the installation is simple. But it is inferior in aesthetic appearance, such a toilet installation design is clearly visible. The advantage is that it takes less time and effort to install the structure.
2. Closed. Here the installation will be inside, so it is not visible. When buying a product, you need to clarify in advance whether it is possible to install such mounts. The installation process is very similar to the open model.

Materials and tools

You will need the following tools for fastening:

1. Drill and drills.
2. Screwdriwer set.
3. Marker.
4. Sealant.
5. Staple.
6. Wrench.
7. Kern.
8. A hammer.
9. A pipe to drain water.
10. Water inlet hose.

What can be attached

The types of installations will differ from the selected method (open or closed). But also an important role is played by the material with which to cover the floor in the toilet. Most often this is a tile, under which there is concrete. Therefore, the best elements will be:

1. Dowel. There are a lot of product varieties. The most common is the dowel-nail. It works best when working with concrete or brick. It can be without thread (like a regular nail) or with a thread.
2. Anchor. Also a large selection of products. Like dowels, they are suitable for brick and concrete. The anchor can be mechanical and chemical (the latter provides for filling the hole with glue for strong installation).
3. Self-tapping screw. More suitable for wood. But it can also be used for concrete. It is necessary to choose steel coated with zinc.

For a closed installation, the basic settings are the same. But if the surface cannot be drilled for some reason, the following elements are suitable as fasteners:

1. Silicone glue.
2. Liquid Nails.
3. Epoxy resin.

Attention! Such fasteners are leveled with sandpaper. This method is effective if there are wires under the floor and there is a risk of damage when drilling holes.

Fixing the toilet to the floor on the tiles: step by step

The installation process will vary slightly depending on the type of installation you choose. For example, to install a toilet with an open mount, you need to do the following:

1. We install the structure in the intended place.
2. Using a marker, make marks on the tile where the fasteners will be mounted. The marker must be vertical, otherwise there is a risk of misalignment of the marks, which will cause incorrect installation.
3. We move aside the toilet. In the place where the marks remained, we make holes (use a drill).
4. We take a core and scratch the coating of the tile (this is necessary to prevent the drill from slipping on the tile).
5. First we use a drill designed for glass.
6. As soon as we have overcome the glass layer of the tile, we take a drill for concrete.
7. We make a hole of the required depth. The size depends on the mounts purchased.
8. The finished hole is cleared of debris.
9. We fill the hole with sealant. This will protect the unit from moisture ingress.
10. After adding sealant to the holes, you can insert the installation.
11. Now we install the toilet. It is also necessary to make a strip of sealant along its contour to protect the base from moisture.
12. Elements are inserted into the holes for mounting. We twist them.
13. To protect the installation from water, as well as to give them an aesthetic appearance, plugs can be put on the bolts.
14. Remains of sealant are removed with a spatula.

If we chose an internal mount, we do the following:

1. Before fixing the product, it is necessary to make holes for water supply and sewerage.
2. As with the surface-mounted method, the work begins with creating marks on the tile.
3. We drill the necessary holes. Place the hidden fasteners on the floor.
4. After installing the fasteners on the floor, they must be bolted.
5. We install the toilet with the empty part on the fasteners.
6. We fasten the structure with bolts through the side holes.
7. Do not tighten the bolts all the way down, as you may need to adjust the position of the toilet slightly to secure it to the plumbing and sewer system.

Everyone can mount the toilet on a tile, the main thing is to follow the instructions.