Besides being beautiful and practical, vinyl wallpaper is considered ideal for new builds. Their non-woven base is elastic, so the wallpaper does not come off the wall due to its natural shrinkage. For gluing such wallpaper, special glue is used. How to glue vinyl wallpaper correctly?

Embossed vinyl wallpaper is very practical, and its decorative characteristics are beyond praise.

What tools are needed

For work, in addition to the wallpaper itself, you will need

• brush for priming walls;
• a roller or brush for applying glue to the wallpaper;
• ruler and level;
• a roller for rolling seams;
• a special spatula or brush for smoothing the panels;
• paper tape;
• two cotton rags and a sponge, which are needed to wipe excess glue from the floor and walls;
• stationery knife for cutting wallpaper;
• a brush for smearing small areas of wallpaper with glue;
• a wooden spatula, which is pressed and spread the wallpaper on narrow sections of the walls.

The necessary wallpapering tools must be clean and in good condition.

How to prepare walls for wallpapering

First of all, remove the remnants of old wallpaper from the walls. Dilute the dry mix for gluing vinyl wallpaper according to the instructions on the package. The walls must be primed. This can be done with glue, or you can use a deep penetration primer. It is also advisable to treat the walls with a special compound that prevents the appearance of mold under the wallpaper before starting work on pasting the walls with vinyl wallpaper.

After the glue and composition have dried, a vertical line must be drawn on the wall. It will serve as a guide for gluing the first panel. You can only focus on the corner if you are sure that the corners in the room are even. In order to draw the line correctly, use a plumb line.

After that, you need to turn off the electricity in the apartment and remove the sockets and switches from the walls.

Remember that vinyl wallpaper can only be glued to dry walls. They should be cleaned of old coatings, if there are cracks, they should be putty and the surface should be leveled. How to check the dryness of the walls? Tape a small piece of polyethylene to the wall with masking tape. If water droplets appear on its inner side during the night, then the walls are not yet dry enough, and you need to wait until they dry completely.

In order for the wallpaper to lay down evenly and hold tightly, you need to carefully prepare the walls, removing the remnants of old wallpaper from them

How to make sure the surface is durable before vinyl wallpapering? Just glue a piece of ordinary tape to the wall, pull it back sharply and look at the wrong side. If there are remnants of old plaster or paint, the wall cannot be considered prepared. Remember to level and prime the walls before applying vinyl wallpaper.

Wallpapering the walls should be done in a draft-free room. Close all windows and turn off fans and air conditioners. It is not recommended to glue new wallpapers on old ones. The walls must be completely cleaned. Turn on fans and air conditioners, open windows only after the wallpaper is completely dry.

How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper: step by step instructions

Cut the wallpaper into strips, leaving a 10 cm allowance along the length of each strip. If you bought vinyl wallpaper with a pattern, carefully select the adjacent panels in height. Place the cut adjacent wallpaper strips on top of each other, pattern side down. Place no more than 10 strips in each stack. In this case, each strip should be shifted in relation to the lower one by 10-15 cm.

Glueing the edges of the canvas with glue is a particularly important operation that requires attention and diligence, because it depends on how strong the joints between the wallpaper strips will be

Step 2: apply glue

How to properly glue the vinyl wallpaper so that the stripe connections are almost invisible? The sheets should not overlap, the wallpaper should be glued back to back. You can start work only after the primer has completely dried. First, apply glue to the section of the wall under the first panel. After that, glue is applied under the second canvas, etc. There are varieties of vinyl wallpaper, where you need to glue only the wallpaper, and not the walls, and there are those where you need to apply glue both to the wall and to the wallpaper. For information on how to apply the adhesive, see the wallpaper roll.

Almost everything is provided for in modern repair technologies, so a convenient and effective roller can be used to smooth the joints between the canvases.

Step 3: gluing the wallpaper

It is better to do this together. One person stands on a stepladder and applies the top edge of the wallpaper to the ceiling wall. At the same time, the other, standing on the floor, supports the lower end of the strip, neatly aligns the edges with a vertical line drawn along the wall. The cloth should be lightly pressed against the wall and the air bubbles should be squeezed out with a brush from top to bottom from the axis to the edges. It is very important to wipe off any excess glue that has come out at the edge of the wallpaper. Do this with a clean cloth, not a brush.

Smoothing the wallpaper is performed from top to bottom in the directions indicated in the photo

Step 4: trim the edges of the wallpaper

After the panel is glued, excess material remains near the baseboard and under the ceiling. The excess must be cut with a knife along a ruler. The lower edge of the wallpaper is folded over the plinth by 4-6 mm. It is very important to use only a sharpened knife when cutting, if its blade is dull, the wallpaper will tear and wrinkle. If using a utility knife, change the blade periodically while you work.

Step 5: the technique of gluing vinyl wallpaper in "problem areas"

Problems with wallpapering walls most often arise when cutting off excess canvas from the bottom of the baseboard, from the top to the ceiling, from switches and sockets, in the corners.

If you have not removed the skirting board before starting work, the wallpaper should be inserted into the joint between the wall and the skirting board. In this case, the remaining part of the lower edge is cut off and a strip is glued to the reconciliation to overlap the seam and part of the baseboard. But it is best to remove the skirting board before starting work. When the wallpaper is glued on, the skirting board is screwed into place.

Cutting the wallpaper at the baseboard should be done with a special knife so that the cut is even and neat

The edge of the panel adjacent to the ceiling should be tucked about 5 cm so that the glue does not stain the ceiling. Then the strip of wallpaper must be pressed against the wall from above and smoothed with a brush from below. If you are not gluing the wallpaper to the ceiling (for example, you decided to combine two types of wallpaper or part of your wall is painted), mark with a pencil before gluing the border of the upper part of the panel around the entire perimeter. It is on this strip that you will be guided when gluing.

In the corners, you should leave extra wallpaper for the depth of the niche and allowance. It is necessary to make cuts on the panel from the bottom and top. Pressing the canvas, it is folded around the corner, and then neatly trimmed. The joints and overlapping areas of the wallpaper must be firmly pressed against the base so that the gluing is strong.

Today you can often find vinyl wallpaper in the kitchen, where their strength, practicality and ease of use are especially relevant.

If you decide to glue the wallpaper behind the batteries, the canvas should go no further than 10-20 cm behind the heating radiator. Use a narrow, long-handled roller to press the wallpaper against the wall. Near switches and sockets, the wallpaper is usually not cut in advance, but glued directly onto the holes. When the glue is dry, holes are cut into the wallpaper. Switches and sockets are screwed into place after work is completed.

Video master class: how to glue vinyl wallpaper

Russia, Moscow region, Moscow +79041000555

How to glue vinyl wallpaper with your own hands?

It takes ~ 6 minutes to read

Progress in materials has brought a gift - vinyl wallpaper. The well-known PVA glue has learned to foam and sinter on rolls of paper, while simulating the surfaces of various materials, including the silk of the imperial palaces. Although vinyl wallpaper has nothing to do with silk, it is often called silk-screened for its specific appearance. In fact, the vinyl is applied by printing with tinted dots. After heating, the substance swells, the points merge - the process is complete. Warm stripes are sometimes embossed, rolled under the paint rollers. The pattern can be applied before embossing. Manufacturing is not complicated, but the components used are expensive. It is difficult to call the palace collections of vinyl tapestries budgetary. However, vinyls properly glued to the wall will last almost forever.

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Features and varieties of vinyl wallpaper

Depending on the substrate, wallpaper is distinguished on:

• paper,
• non-woven fabric,
• fabrics.

The first ones are the cheapest, the acrylic is foamed on them, so the substance is easily destroyed even with a fingernail. Non-woven material is used as a substrate for denser samples. Vinyl on a fabric basis is similar to a sieve, calico. Used where there is a complete imitation of a tapestry.

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According to density, vinyl is divided into two categories:

• high relief,
• low relief.

Highly embossed canvases are produced in wide white canvases with the texture of matting, double-thread, linen canvas, as well as ribbons in the form of plaster decor. After gluing, such reliefs are painted with acrylics. For kitchens and hallways, decorative canvases are produced in the form of tiled, brickwork. Service life is limited: rearrangement of furniture, children, pets, inability to wash with abrasives - the reasons for the rapid destruction of the layer.

Low-relief washable, not afraid of shock, does not fade, no unpleasant smell. Their only drawback is the ability to condense steam on itself. That is, they do not “breathe”. Therefore, it is recommended for rooms and areas with good ventilation.

Vinyl of 4 standards is produced: 53 cm, 70 cm, 106 cm and tape friezes. All varieties, regardless of the height of the relief, series and manufacturer, are combined with each other. The main thing in the gluing process is to avoid gaps between the canvases. Vinyl overlaps are not glued.

How to glue: the necessary tool

1. Metal ruler;
2. Stationery knife;
3. Square;
4. Roulette;
5. Flat brushes - 0.5, 2.5 cm;
6. A fleecy roller on a stick - L 200 mm;
7. Roller on the handle - L 120 mm;
8. Leveling scraper;
9. Building level (preferably laser);
10. Solid pencil T;
11. Shoe brush;
12. Scissors.

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You will also need a board made of fiberboard, a table, a stepladder, rags, masking tape, weights to prevent the canvases from twisting. As glue - methylcellulose CMC or modified starch.

Adhesive selection

CMC stands for methylcellulose glue. All of its other names are a publicity stunt. CMC is poured in very small portions (dust) into a bucket of water, mixing thoroughly. Set aside for several hours, stir again. The liquid should be viscous, like jelly, envelop the stick without lumps. Kissel-like consistency is the same for all vinyls - heavy, light, high-relief. Dilute very thick glue with water, but carefully, in small portions, otherwise it may become a watery liquid.

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Another wallpaper glue is modified starch. It dries without leaving a trace, does not form whitish smudges. Its price is higher, but the preparation is the same as that of the CMC.

PVA glue is added - up to 10% of the total mass - before gluing itself to accelerate the setting of meter prints, but it is not required. Excess it is thoroughly blotted with rag tampons.

Preparatory work

Removing old wallpaper

The gloss of vinyl gives out all the unevenness of the wall, so the surface is prepared more carefully than for painting. The chalk is washed off the wall, the old wallpaper is scraped off with a spatula and knife, after soaking them.

Sometimes you need a lot of water. Oilcloth is placed on the floor on the bars, the flowing water will be collected in an oilcloth ditch. Each time the wetted roller is rolled over the old wallpaper, it will peel off faster. The washed wall is allowed to dry.

To remove the old wallpaper in one large layer, they resort to the following: newspapers are glued onto the old paper print. Allow to dry, tear off.

Wall alignment technology

Scrape off the oil paint. Large shells are covered with plaster, impregnated with a primer. Further - the application of the plaster mix "Start". After the walls are polished. It is recommended to glue the fiberglass canvas before the finishing coat. The fiberglass will serve as a scent while gluing. It also reinforces the finish layer. All fiberglass glue is the same. The final layer is "Finish" putty.

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Applying a light source to the wall, dry surfaces are checked for small cuts and protrusions. After straightening, the surfaces are primed again. The final stage is gluing. The glue prepared in advance is rolled with a roller.

Very old walls are easier (and cheaper) to level with plasterboard. In this case, transverse and longitudinal guides are attached to the wall with a pitch of 1200 mm, plates are hung, the places of screw entries and seams are putty. The reinforcing mesh is not applied along the seam. It is not necessary to apply the finishing layer of putty mixtures on drywall, but the plates are primed and glued in the same way as in the previous case.

Markup

The surfaces are measured. Beat off the top edge with a level and pencil. The highest canvas height in the whole room is set (it can vary). Usually it is 2m 65cm +. In the case when the design involves two tiers and a frieze, marking is done along the horizons.

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Installation of the ceiling cornice is carried out either before or after gluing. In the first case, the joint between the cornice and the canvas is covered with acrylic between two masking tapes. From above, acrylic is tinted with a water emulsion (it turns yellow over time). In the second case, the wallpaper protrudes 5 mm above the lower edge of the plinth, and the top of the wallpaper is covered with polystyrene cornices, having previously protected it from hitting with a building protective paint brushes!

You need to mark up the entire composition in advance. Special attention is paid to verticals. With the help of a level, a vertical line is drawn for each canvas, otherwise the “slid” cut can initiate a skew for all subsequent ones.

Step-by-step instruction

To properly glue such wallpaper with your own hands, follow the instructions below.

Preparing the canvas

The roll is rolled out, inspected for defects, the length is cut in accordance with the marking rectangles. You need to cut in one step, using a backing board, a blade well fixed in the handle. The cross line for the cut must be strictly perpendicular.

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How to apply glue

The cut is placed on the floor, pressing the corners with weights, preventing them from twisting. The glue is rolled with a roller without spinning in a paint tray. The vinyl backing absorbs a lot, so after the first rolling it is immediately rolled again. It is desirable to lubricate the contours of the canvas with PVA in addition to the CMC. The top and bottom are brought to the center. The formed envelope is soaked for 3 - 5 minutes. Unfold by attaching to the wall. It is advisable to apply together - in order to avoid ruptures.

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How to glue the finished canvas

Before sticking on the finished piece of canvas, you must pay the greatest attention to the top edge. Once it is fixed in accordance with the marking line, the canvas is finally unfold and its center is fixed by hand. Holding the upper edge, they pass over the canvas with a spatula-trowel. Subsequent movements - from the center to the edges. Excess glue is removed with a moistened cloth swab, the canvas is glued perfectly. A shoe brush is used. With it, the canvas is leveled in a circular motion, the side edge is checked against the horizontal, if necessary, the edge is removed, slightly tightened. The wet section is elastic and stretches up to 1 cm at a meter thickness. Do not touch the damp wall with your nails and sharp objects - it is very vulnerable.

Trimming edges

Vertical canvases on a wet wall cannot be trimmed. The groove from the knife will remain, moreover, it can provoke the destruction of the putty. But on a gypsum plasterboard, the canvas can be trimmed - in those places where there are no nests, under the screws, away from the seams. After drying, the strips are trimmed close to the floor.

Tape material - friezes - are stretched after stretching along the wall. It is difficult to foresee their final length. The tape is measured, trimmed with a margin, laid, marked with a pencil and carefully trimmed with scissors.

Sticking in problem areas

No water-based adhesive can withstand the temperature fluctuations behind batteries. You can't see behind them: the curtains are masking. But it is possible to pick up the color and paint over. Acrylic paint with glitter is suitable for mother-of-pearl wallpaper: silver, gold, bronze. These compounds are extremely stable. The edges of the vinyl near the batteries are painted over from the back with thick PVA glue, pressed. Hold, for example, with a mop. This work can only be carried out near cold radiators.

The housings of sockets and switches are removed before gluing. It goes without saying that the network must be turned off. The dried tapestries on the rosettes will give themselves away with a relief, they are easy to find by touch. A cruciform hole is made in the center, the unnecessary is cut off.

Drying time for vinyl wallpaper

It is easy to establish whether the moisture has evaporated or not: you need to touch the wall and ceiling with your palm. Normal drying of wall materials is a day. In autumn, the drying period can be delayed - up to 2, 3 days.

After complete drying, check the joints. If the pasting has moved away, the edge is pasted over on both sides with masking tape, carefully pulled back, PVA glue drips from the stationery dispenser, pressed and dried with the warmth of the palm.

Video: how to properly glue vinyl wallpaper with your own hands

Good work requires care, strict adherence to technology. But working with vinyls cannot be classified as time consuming processes. However, preparatory work is voluminous and costly.

The question of how to glue vinyl wallpaper is increasingly asked by those who have started to carry out self-repairs, since this type of finishing material has become extremely popular. This increased demand is due to the widest variety of patterns, reliefs and colors, as well as the technology available to everyone for pasting walls, subject to, of course, certain requirements.

However, not many people know for sure that there are many types of vinyl wallpaper that can be radically different in structure and textured surface. Therefore, first it is worthwhile to figure out what this material is, what properties it has, and what varieties of it can be found in stores.

What is vinyl wallpaper

The main advantages of vinyl wallpaper

Vinyl wallpaper appeared in our area in the seventies of the last century. They were called then "washable", and they belonged to the category of super-scarce goods. The first wallpapers of this type "did not breathe", that is, they had practically zero vapor permeability, and did not let air through at all. Over time, the technologists of the manufacturing companies have made numerous improvements to the structure of this finishing material, and today in the assortment of stores there is a wide selection of vinyl wallpapers, which are radically different from their predecessors in their improved qualities and external design.

Today, vinyl wallpaper is produced on paper and non-woven backing. Such a substrate, the main task of which is to ensure the most reliable fixation of wallpaper on the walls, is covered on the front side with a layer of polyvinyl chloride (it is this material that is colloquially called vinyl). Since such a finish is often designed for use in rooms with high humidity, many manufacturers add special antifungal and antiseptic components to the composition.

The polyvinyl chloride coating is characterized by increased surface strength and excellent resistance to mechanical stress, especially abrasive and abrasive properties. On such a coating, due to its hydrophobicity, dirt is "reluctant" to linger, so some types of vinyl wallpaper are the best suited for wall decoration in kitchens.

It is the top layer of vinyl wallpaper that has decorative embossing, and thanks to innovative production technologies, it is able to imitate some natural and artificial materials. Modern varieties are for the most part "breathable" because their coating has a porous structure that is capable of letting in vapors without much delay. Thus, the walls do not accumulate moisture, since the possibility of its free evaporation is created. This property of the finishing material allows it to adhere well to surfaces without peeling from them due to increased moisture in the room.

At the same time, in the process of washing the wallpaper, water and detergents do not penetrate under the coating, but quickly evaporate from their surface, thanks to the micropores closed from the outside.

Vinyl wallpaper is becoming an increasingly popular finish due to other advantages over other types of wall coverings in this series. The material has a stable color that does not change its original appearance under the influence of ultraviolet rays. A high-quality and properly glued coating is durable enough and can last for more than a dozen years, until the homeowners just get bored.

The main drawback, which, however, is quite justified, is the high price of this material. However, this circumstance does not in the least reduce the popularity and does not reduce the volume of sales of vinyl wallpaper, as they can transform the room beyond recognition.

A properly selected wallpaper pattern can visually expand or narrow a room, make the ceiling lower or higher, which is often necessary in small-area city apartments.

Vinyl wallpapers are easy to stick and level on surfaces, so they are often used to decorate not only walls, but also ceilings. Ornate drawings applied to the canvases can hide the flaws of the walls at their joints with the ceiling, since even in apartments of panel houses, significant differences in this line are often found. Some types of these wallpapers are able to perfectly mask even small flaws in the walls, due to their thickness, density and applied relief pattern.

vinyl wallpapers

Existing varieties of vinyl wallpaper

Nowadays, the consumer has the opportunity to choose one of several types of vinyl wallpaper, depending on the room in which they are planned to be used. Each of them is good in its own way, if correctly glued to prepared surfaces.

• Silkscreen - this is the most popular type of vinyl wallpaper for decorating the walls of living rooms and bedrooms, since the canvases have a very attractive and effective outer coating, which, due to its texture and inclusions, usually imitates natural silk. A similar design move is achieved by hot stamping, which, in addition to the aesthetic appearance, also gives mechanical strength and resistance to fading of the used paints.

There is an important condition - such wallpaper should be glued only to well-aligned wall surfaces, otherwise all flaws will appear through the coating, spoiling the expected result.

• Smooth and solid the vinyl layers applied to the substrate are quite thin, but have good density and strength. A hard coating differs from a smooth layer in its more pronounced resistance to mechanical stress. A smooth coating is more delicate, therefore it can withstand only a slight external influence. These types of wallpaper, like silk-screen printing, are not able to mask the flaws of the walls, therefore they require a perfectly flat surface.

• Foamed vinyl. When applied to a backing, this material creates the thickest decorative outer layer of any vinyl wallpaper. It is the most durable and dense, and has a three-dimensional pattern. It is the relief of the surface of the canvases that is able to hide minor defects on the walls.

This type of coating is produced by applying a polyvinyl chloride mass to the base, and then pressing the relief under the simultaneous influence of high temperatures.

Pasting walls with vinyl wallpaper

The main features of pasting vinyl wallpaper

When gluing vinyl wallpaper, it is necessary to constantly keep in mind some of the features of this process.

• The right choice of adhesive composition is of decisive importance when performing wall decoration work with this material.

• Since when glue is applied to their surface, the material on a non-woven or paper base tends to stretch, and when it dries, it shrinks, the seams between the canvases can noticeably diverge. Therefore, for vinyl wallpaper, you should purchase a special glue that is able to hold heavy canvases on a vertical plane and at the same time prevent their linear deformation.
• The glue can be applied only to wallpaper or to both surfaces, that is, both the canvas and the wall at the same time. If the surfaces of the walls are pre-treated with a primer (or the same wallpaper glue), then only the wallpaper canvases are coated. In addition, you need to pay attention to the packaging, on each of the rolls there are recommendations for applying glue.

• The consumption of glue when working with vinyl wallpaper is much lower than when pasting walls with paper decorative canvases. When purchasing glue, you should pay attention to its packaging, which indicates how many rolls it is designed for.
• Vinyl wallpapers of all types are glued only end-to-end, as they have a fairly dense structure and embossed surface, and the foamed look of the canvases is also of a serious thickness.
• When applying glue to sheets, special attention should be paid to the edges of the sheets. They must be well smeared with the composition, otherwise they will diverge at the joints of the canvas and spoil the appearance of the entire surface.

How to calculate the number of wallpapers?

Before going to the store for wall decoration material, you should make calculations of the required amount. This process is especially important if the wallpaper is to be joined according to the pattern. If there is no concept of the algorithm for such calculations, then we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the article of our portal, which describes in detail the procedure and all the necessary explanations to it.

Tools for finishing works

To carry out pasting walls with vinyl wallpaper, in addition to glue, the following tools are required:

• Roller with soft attachment and brush - for priming walls and for applying adhesive
• A rubber roller for smoothing canvases on walls and a narrow roller for rolling joints.
• Building level, plumb line, ruler, building square, pencil - for marking.
• Plastic spatula for squeezing out excess glue and air bubbles from under the sheets.
• A sponge and soft cloth to remove excess adhesive that has come out at the joints.
• Stationery knife with replaceable blades.
• Metal wide spatula.
• Masking tape.

Preparing walls for wallpaper

In order for the wallpaper to hold and look neat on the wall, the surfaces must be carefully prepared. It should not be assumed that this is not a particularly important process - it will depend on it how impressive the coating and the general appearance of the room will look. In addition, if the walls are good, then the work will be much easier and faster.

The process of preparing the walls is not the most pleasant experience, as it is rather long and "dirty", but in no case should this stop homeowners, since the result will delight for many years.

So, with patience and having prepared all the necessary tools, you can begin this process.

wallpaper glue

Cleaning walls from old coating

If you plan to stick wallpaper on walls that have an old coating - wallpaper, whitewash or paint, then it must be removed. As a rule, this task is not easy - sometimes even ordinary wallpaper, once glued "conscientiously", can hardly be separated from surfaces. Therefore, to facilitate this process, you must use one of several proven methods.

Cleaning the walls from wallpaper

Old glued wallpaper can be removed with a spatula, but operations are usually carried out beforehand to soften the canvases and to separate them from the walls as easily as possible.

• Paper wallpapers are soaked with soapy water, which can be applied to them with a roller or sponge. The coating is moistened several times so that it is well saturated, and there are signs of separation from the wall.

The first application of the soap solution is to the entire wall, and then it can be applied to the area to be cleaned first.

In addition to soaking with a solution and a roller, quite often a steam iron or a special device is used to remove paper canvases through which steam is supplied to the wallpaper under pressure.

Depending on the composition used earlier for wallpapering, they can be easily separated, immediately in solid sheets, and in other cases you will have to make an effort and work with a spatula, peeling off pieces of different size.

• , washable or double-layer wallpaper, then in order to properly wet them through and through, cuts are made on the sheets with a sharp knife or punctures are made with a needle roller.

When the canvases begin to lag behind the walls, they can be removed in large pieces or also using a spatula.

Some craftsmen prefer to remove only the front layer from two-layer wallpaper, and use the lower paper layer as a basis for a new coating. This is not recommended, since it is best to inspect the wall for cracks or cracks at the joints of the walls and ceiling. The remaining paper layer will interfere with the normal revision of the surface, and if defects nevertheless form under it, then over time they can negatively affect the new coating.

Removing multi-layer whitewash

If several layers of whitewash are applied to the wall, and it is cracked in some areas, looks uneven and begins to separate from the surface with bubbles, then it will have to be removed, otherwise the work on decorating the wall with wallpaper will be done in vain.

To remove the whitewash, it also needs to be soaked. If the coating layer is thin, then it is washed off the wall with water, to which a little vinegar is added. Of course, this coating cannot be removed with one rinse, so the process is carried out two or three times with wiping the surface with a dry cloth.

A thin layer of whitewash can also be removed using a sander with a brush attachment. This method will significantly speed up the work, but when using it, you must definitely have a respirator and goggles, since the whitewash removed under the influence of high revolutions of the tool will scatter, and in the room after a few minutes nothing will be visible due to fine white dust.

A thick layer of whitewash will have to be soaked several times until it begins to separate from the wall. They start wetting from the ceiling or from the area where cracks or shedding have formed on the coating. Water is applied using a roller or a large sponge.

Removing old paint

It would seem that it is impossible to remove the paint without leaving a trace from the wall, especially if it is applied in a thin layer. However, there are a few simple ways you can do this process. Moreover, each of the masters can choose the most acceptable for himself.

• Chemical method thinning paint, makes it easy to clean it with a spatula. A special composition is applied to a small area of \u200b\u200bthe wall with a brush, and kept for a certain time indicated on the package of the solution.

Under the influence of such a solvent, the paint begins to melt and separate from any surface, be it concrete, wood or metal. Such solutions are suitable for all paints available on the market, from automotive to enamel or oil. Using the chemical composition, it is necessary to protect your hands with rubber gloves, and your eyes with special glasses. It is advisable to carry out these works by organizing effective ventilation of the room.

• Another way to remove paint from a wall is to use a blow dryer and the supplied scraper or a regular trowel. Under the influence of high temperatures, the paint becomes plastic, and, without waiting for it to cool and harden, the coating is cleaned off to the base.

• Another way to get rid of paint on walls is to abrasively clean with a drill or grinder with special attachments. This process requires patience and time, as it is quite lengthy. When cleaning the wall in this way, you cannot do without protective equipment for the respiratory tract and eyes.

Wall surface leveling

If, after removing the decorative coating, a plaster layer is found under it, it must be carefully revised. The pavement must be even, free from cracks, unstable areas and crumbling. In order to make sure that it adheres securely to the wall, the layer is tapped.

If some areas of the coating give a dull sound, then the plaster has moved away from the wall. These places are removed to the ground and repaired.

If the damage covers large areas, it is better to remove the plaster completely and apply a new leveling layer.

In the event that cracks, potholes or serious irregularities are found on the cleaned wall, in the presence of, in general, high-quality plaster, they must be repaired or removed. If this is not done in advance, in the future, the crack may diverge and can pull the wallpaper along with it.

The cracks found widen and deepen, then they are cleaned and covered with a primer to the full depth. After that, small gaps are filled with a special repair sealant, and for wider cracks, you can use polyurethane foam. These materials are plastic and fill the entire cavity well, and after drying, they will not crack, unlike putty or cement mortar. After the sealant or foam has hardened, their excess is cut flush with the total wall surface.

Sometimes you have to resort to complete plastering of the surface

If serious irregularities or delamination is found on the surface, then the wall covering will have to be completely renewed. Detailed instructions on how to complete this stage of work can be found in a separate portal article devoted to.

Walls that are in good condition and do not require leveling with plaster should be primed after filling the cracks. The primer is applied with a long handle roller. In hard-to-reach places and in corners - with a brush. Sometimes one layer of this composition is enough, but most often the surfaces have to be primed two to three times. The number of layers directly depends on the condition of the wall and the material from which it is built. The primer greatly increases the adhesion of the wall and the materials covering it, and also disinfects its surface by penetrating deep into the pores.

After the primer layers are dry, you can proceed to the final leveling of the walls with putty. A layer of putty is designed to level out minor irregularities in the walls and is applied evenly over the entire area.

With putty, the walls are brought to perfect condition

Carrying out the finishing alignment process requires good dexterity and knowledge of certain rules. How to make a putty solution or purchase it ready-made - all this can be found in a special article on our portal.

When the putty is dry, it must be well sanded to perfect smoothness, otherwise all the irregularities that could remain on the surface will appear through the vinyl wallpaper. For sanding, you will need a trowel, on which you first attach a sanding mesh, which will remove larger irregularities, and then sandpaper with medium or fine grit, which can bring the smoothness to the ideal.

Sanding the walls is done in a circular motion counterclockwise. Work usually starts from the top corner of the wall, gradually moving to another corner of the room, covering the entire surface. The pressure on the trowel should be light, since the layer of putty is usually only 2 ÷ 3 mm in thickness.

It should be remembered that this process is quite dusty, so it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract and eyes.

The process of preparing the walls ends with their high-quality priming

Priming the walls before sticking wallpaper on them is mandatory, as it will promote good adhesion of the wallpaper canvases to the wall, and also protect the inner surfaces from mold in the corners of the outer walls. Therefore, this process should not be neglected. In order to choose the right composition and apply it to the walls with high quality, we recommend that you study the article that can be found on our portal.

Pasting the walls with vinyl wallpaper

To begin with, it is worth giving some tips on sticking canvases on the walls and preparing the room for this process. These recommendations will be especially useful for those who will be engaged in such a finish for the first time, since the reliability of fixing the canvases on the walls will depend on their implementation.

• Vinyl wallpaper is only glued to well-dried walls. To check how dry they are, you need to glue a piece of polyethylene about 500 × 500 mm in size with masking tape to the wall at night. The tape fixes the polyethylene around its edges so that an airtight space remains inside. If in the morning drops of moisture form between the film and the wall, then the surfaces are not dry enough, so you should wait until they are completely dry.
• Before you start pasting walls with wallpaper, you should close the windows and doors, and also turn off the air conditioners and fans, since a draft is absolutely contraindicated for this work. Failure to do so will lead to flaking of the webs from the surfaces. So, having come in the morning to check the result of the work, the wallpaper can be found on the floor. You can turn on air conditioners and fans, as well as open windows and doors only after the glue under the decorative coating is completely dry.
• Before you start gluing the wallpaper, first, at the junction of the ceiling and walls, along a broken horizontal line, the ceiling cornice is fixed to the glue. It will be convenient to carefully trim the upper edge of the canvases along it.

Wall markings

Marking walls for wallpapering is not as easy as it seems at first glance. But this stage of work is extremely important, and if it is not carried out, then the canvases will go away from the vertical line and they will have to be peeled off, and then aligned and glued correctly. Alteration can badly affect the appearance of the wallpaper, so it is best to glue them according to the markings.

Find out with instructions for beginner finishers from a new article on our portal.

Usually the room has a quadrangular shape with interior corners. Sticking wallpaper should start from the edge of the window or from the corner closer to it.

If the work will be carried out from the corner, then you should immediately check its verticality. In order for the first canvas to be brought out perfectly evenly, it is necessary to retreat from the corner of the room towards pasting by the width of the wallpaper canvas minus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

non-woven wallpaper

Next, a plumb line with a colored cord is taken and fixed at the top mark. If there is an assistant, then he can hold the cord at the top, and the plumb line goes down, defining a strict vertical. After that, the cord is pulled and released, leaving an even vertical line on the wall. Along it, one side of the first wallpaper canvas will be equal. Subsequent sheets will then be joined to it. The other side of the first sheet will be driven into a corner, with the transition to another wall, and even if the angle is not perfectly vertical, this will not be very noticeable there.

Then, from the vertical marked line on the wall, the width of the wallpaper roll is laid down and another line is beaten off along the marks. This will mark the boundaries of gluing the next sheet on both sides. There is no particular point in drawing the entire wall - it will simply be necessary to regularly monitor the verticality of the pasted canvases so that there is no distortion. True, some finishers prefer to make a vertical reference line for each sheet before gluing each sheet.

Kneading the glue

The glue solution for wallpaper should be slightly infused, so it must be diluted in advance, before proceeding with the preparation of the wallpaper. Making glue is not difficult at all, since the whole procedure is set out on the package. It is enough to pour the required amount of water at room temperature into the prepared container (a clean plastic bucket is suitable for this), and then, stirring continuously, pour the contents of the package.

If a glue with an indicator is selected, then it should turn pink. This composition is convenient in that non-glued areas will immediately appear on the wall, which will not be noticeable when applying conventional transparent solutions. This glue quality will help to avoid air pockets under the glued canvas, which can form in the remaining dry spots on the wall, which will significantly reduce the adhesion of the wallpaper to the surfaces. After drying, the indicator color of the adhesive disappears.

Preparing wallpaper

Vinyl wallpaper can have a clear pattern that requires fitting, or one that does not require adjustment. When purchasing wallpaper with a matching pattern, it should be borne in mind that their consumption is much higher, since a lot of waste remains from them. Wallpaper, which does not require adjustment, is practically waste-free, and much easier to work with, but on the wall they look more modest than canvases with rich patterns or even subject compositions. Therefore, most often consumers choose the last finish option.

Selection of wallpaper

So, there are several ways to fit a picture.

In the first case, it is marked in height, the first strip of wallpaper is cut and glued, and a roll is applied to it, if necessary, it is shifted until the pattern is aligned. The rest of the wallpaper canvases are adjusted in the same way. With such a selection, one should be prepared for the deviation from each roll to be 1000 ÷ 1500 mm, which leads to unnecessary costs, since, for example, instead of the required six rolls, you will have to buy seven.

The second method is that the set step of the drawing elements (rapport) is taken into account and the required shift value between them is selected when aligning. Typically, these values \u200b\u200b- rapport and the required offset, are indicated in the pictograms on the packaging label of the roll. To fit, you need to open two rolls at once and, by shifting the sheets, determine the most profitable and economical option for matching the ornament.

The third way to select a picture is somewhat different from the first two. To save money, you can try to cut, selecting the combination of ornaments, simultaneously from two rolls or even three rolls at once. For example, odd canvases are cut from the first roll: 1, 3, 5, and from the second - even: 2.4, 6. Often, using this selection method, it is fashionable to reduce wallpaper waste from each roll to 200 ÷ 300 mm.

For more information about what rapport is, and how to combine for different types of patterns, see the article on calculating the number of wallpapers, the link to which is given above.

Cutting of canvases

When cutting a roll, not only the height of the area to be pasted and the displacement of the pattern are taken into account, but also a margin of the length of the canvas is created for its finishing trim. Usually the size of such a stock is made 50 ÷ 80 mm, with a uniform distribution when glued from above and below.

At the intended place, the canvas is bent, the fold is smoothed and the canvas is cut off with scissors, a clerical knife or a sharp spatula. The sheet can not be bent, but draw a dividing line even perpendicular to the edges on it, checking it with a construction square.

To begin with, it is enough to cut the canvases from two to three rolls, and after gluing them, you can proceed to cutting the next batch, otherwise it will not be difficult to get confused. After cutting the canvas on it, it is recommended to immediately mark with a pencil its serial number on the wall and the direction of the sticker - this way it is more convenient to control the correctness of the operations when gluing.

Carrying out the wallpaper pasting process

After everything is ready for work, you can proceed to the main work - sticking wallpaper on the walls.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	The first step is to apply glue to the sheet, to the wall or to both surfaces - as required by the technology. Experienced masters unanimously declare that the best results are achieved with mutual coating with glue both the canvas and the wall surface, regardless of the manufacturer's recommendations. The canvas is laid out on a table or on a floor covered with oilcloth in advance, and glue is applied to it - this process can be done with a roller, brush or sponge. It is very important to grease the edges of the sheet well.
	The upper and lower edges of the coated canvas are rolled up to its middle (the decorative side of the sheet remains outside), and the canvas is neatly removed to the side for impregnation. After that, the second sheet is immediately covered with glue and also folded. Then, if it is indicated on the roll of wallpaper that it is required to apply glue to the wall for their sticker, then this action is performed further. It is best to coat the wall with a long-handled roller - this tool will greatly speed up and facilitate the process. First, the adhesive solution must be applied to the wall area intended for the two already coated canvases.
	Next, you can go directly to the wallpaper on the wall. To do this, take the first missed sheet, straighten its upper side, folded towards the middle, and then with an overlap of about 25 - 30 mm relative to the line broken off in the upper part of the wall or the glued cornice, it is applied to the wall surface. The canvas is fixed from above, and then aligned along the broken vertical line along which it will dock with the second missed sheet.
	After removing the canvas along the line from the top to about half the height, they begin to press it against the wall in the middle, and then from it, using a plastic spatula, the sheet is straightened using the herringbone method - from the center to the edges, in which excess glue is removed from under it and air. When they reach the middle, they gently bend the lower folded part of the canvas - it should already ideally coincide with the vertical line. In the same way, straightening and removal of excess glue are carried out to the very bottom. The glue squeezed out along the edges is immediately removed with a clean cloth or slightly damp foam sponge.
	A more difficult task is to glue and fit end-to-end to the first, second sheet. It is, first of all, equal precisely along the line of the joint, while simultaneously combining the drawing of the canvases.
	After the excess glue and air have been driven out from under the second sheet, the joint is rolled with a special rubber roller - this process must be carried out while the wallpaper is still wet. The special tapered or barrel-shaped roller contributes to the optimal attraction of the edges of the wallpaper at the junction - the border becomes almost invisible.
	In parallel with the gluing of the canvases (each individually or, for example, every two or three sheets), the upper and lower edges are trimmed along the line of the ceiling cornice and along the line of the plinth (or along an arbitrary straight line, which will subsequently be covered by the plinth).
	It is better to cut the cut with a sharp clerical knife, after pressing the bottom or top of the canvas with a spatula to the plinth or cornice, depending on where the cut is made. When cutting with a spatula, it will turn out smooth and neat. At the same time, one should not spare the replaceable blades - it is best to break off the blade section after each blade, so that the cut is guaranteed to be smooth, and the wallpaper does not get jammed with an "accordion" under a dull knife. The cost of the blades is not so high as to unreasonably save on it. After trimming, the edges are carefully smoothed, if necessary - slightly greased from the inside with glue.
	When decorating walls with wallpaper, beginners often have confusion about how to stick them neatly on the inner and outer corners, as well as in other problem areas.
	As we remember, the first sheet entered the inner corner by 20 ÷ 30 mm The second sheet is glued with an overlap of 10 ÷ 20 mm. The sheets are pressed against the wall at the overlap, excess glue is removed. If thin paper wallpapers are glued, you can limit yourself to this, but with vinyl it will not work like that.
	If vinyl wallpaper is glued, then, firstly, the overlap will look ugly, and secondly, the canvases will not stick together reliably. Therefore, in order to achieve an even joint while the wallpaper has not yet dried, an even vertical line is drawn in the middle of the overlap from the ceiling to the floor, and then a through-cut is made along it with a sharp knife. After that, the outer cut edge is removed, and then, from under the canvas, the edge is pulled out, cut off from the adjacent sheet. The next step is to press the joint and then roll it with a rubber roller.
	Another case - in the process of pasting, the walls reached the opposite corner, and it is located so that it would seem that the next canvas will have to be bent along the corner. This is never done - the canvas must be divided into two parts along a vertical line. The first strip, which is a continuation of the glued wall, should be equal in width to the distance from the last glued sheet to the corner plus 10 mm. On the wall adjacent to the corner, a vertical line is marked along a plumb line at a distance equal to the width of the second strip. The cut parts are glued to the wall one by one, the first being aligned with the last glued canvas, and the second already along the drawn vertical line, since it will set the direction for further pasting on this wall. Then the same through-cutting is carried out along the overlap, removal of scraps and rolling of the resulting joint with a roller.
	In order not to get lost in this problematic place with the general arrangement of the drawings on the wall, a little trick is used. After the canvas is marked with a vertical line for cutting in two, a horizontal strip of masking tape is glued in the upper part. This will become a kind of marker - when the canvases overlap, the strip will need to be combined - and the general arrangement of the drawings on the walls will be perfectly maintained. And small distortions in the corner, due to overlap, will be almost invisible. After gluing and aligning the cut sheet, carefully remove the strip of tape.
	Outside corners are also considered problematic, so a few words must be said about them. The diagram shows how the outer corner should be pasted over. The canvas, glued on the left wall from the corner, is folded onto the right wall by 20 ÷ 25 mm.
	On top of it, with an overlap of about 10 ÷ 15 mm, a solid canvas is glued, already on the right wall. Then, just as in the process with an internal corner, an even cut is made in the middle of the overlap, the cut edges of the canvases are removed, they are joined and rolled with a roller.
	The pasting of walls with window and doorways located in them sometimes causes some difficulty. However, it should be noted that this moment of work cannot be called particularly trumpet, if the procedure is followed. Firstly, it is necessary to take into account that it is not necessary to cut in advance the canvas that will be near the door. Secondly, it is taken into account that part of this sheet will remain above the door. Therefore, the canvas begins to fix on the surface in the same way as the rest of the sheets of material, but is pressed and smoothed only on the whole part of the wall.
	When the sheet is glued to the upper and side of the wall part of the door, you can start cutting it and removing the excess fragment. The canvas is cut so that the edges of the remaining part of it are on the frame of the doorway, by about 20 ÷ 25 mm.
	The next step at the corner of the door frame, the wallpaper that is on it is cut diagonally by 12 ÷ 15 mm.
	Then, the edges of the canvas above the doorway and located along its vertical edge are additionally coated with glue and pressed against the wall and to the end sides of the protruding frame fixed to the door frame. Further, in the same way, the second corner of the doorway is pasted, and only after that a piece of wallpaper is selected according to the pattern, which will fill the remaining area between them, above the door.
	If a window or door is recessed into the wall and it is planned to paste over their slopes with wallpaper, then the canvas should be on the wall above the opening to the width of the opening slopes with a small margin of 10 ÷ 20 mm. The wallpaper sheet is fixed with glue on the upper and side of the wall opening. Then, carefully, with the help of a clerical knife, cuts are made along the upper and lower edges of the opening, while the sheet is not cut from the side, since it will need to be bent and glued to the slope.
	Further, a piece of wallpaper is selected according to the pattern and size, and then glued to the upper slope of the window or door opening with a bend on the upper part of the wall by 12 ÷ 15 mm, and from above it is closed with an overlap with wallpaper, glued over the window opening. Then it will be possible to carry out through cuts and ensure high-quality abutment of the canvases along the resulting joints.
	To make the design look neat, all work must be done quickly so that the glue on the canvas does not have time to dry. Therefore, it is best to make all measurements in advance and prepare pieces of wallpaper of the right size. The last step is to cover with fragments of wallpaper all the remaining non-glued areas above and below the windows.
	Heating radiators often cause difficulties. It's okay - here you need to apply prudence, ingenuity and increased accuracy.
	Finally, the moment with sockets and switches remained unclear. There are no particular difficulties with this, but compliance with safety rules will be required. Before gluing the canvas, which will have an outlet or switch, be sure to turn off the electricity supply to the room. The rosette is removed, then the canvas is glued in the usual way. Further, it is easy to grope for the socket of the socket in order to make a cruciform cut that does not go beyond the boundaries of the socket. When the wallpaper is dry, it will be possible to remove the resulting "wings", and carefully install the socket in place. Then you can reconnect the room to the mains.

After all these operations, it is necessary to create and maintain the optimal mode for drying the wallpaper. Drafts are completely excluded, with households, especially with children, "educational work" is carried out so that no one enters a closed room until it is fully ready. It is strictly forbidden to use heaters to artificially accelerate the drying of the glue - the effect is guaranteed to be catastrophic!

Read helpful tips for choosing in our new article.

We hope that this publication will help the site visitor to understand the nuances of vinyl wallpaper stickers. Having understood the principle of work, having calculated the required amount of materials, you can go to the hardware store to purchase everything you need. Then, following the instructions and recommendations, boldly, but with increased accuracy, start transforming your apartment or house.

In conclusion, for greater clarity - a video with an example of wall decoration with vinyl wallpaper:

Video: master class on pasting walls with vinyl wallpaper

Vinyl wallpaper over the past decades continues to confidently conquer the market in Russia and around the world. They are practical, inexpensive and look very colorful.

Types of vinyl wallpaper

There are several types of vinyl wallpaper. The method of their production is simple: a polyvinyl chloride coating is applied to a paper or non-woven base, then the canvas is processed in a high-temperature oven.

Silkscreen vinyl wallpaper is created using hot stamping. Light falling on such a surface is refracted at different angles, which gives rise to an amazing effect.

Such wallpapers stand out for their rich assortment and variety of shades and textures, they are expensive.

The warranty is given for the product:

• With non-woven base up to 15 years;
• On a paper basis, the terms are half the time.

The coating is not afraid of temperature extremes, wet cleaning with soap solution. Over the past decade, hot-embossed vinyl wallpaper on paper and non-woven backing has been particularly popular on the market.

Reasons for increased demand:

• a large assortment;
• contrast and brilliance;
• strength;
• ease of installation.

Vinyl wallpaper has a base made of paper or non-woven fabric.

The top layer is a vinyl covering, it varies in the following parameters:

• width;
• thickness;
• density.

Reasons for popularity all over the world:

• strength;
• good resistance;
• durability;
• low price;
• lack of toxins;
• easy to clean.

Silk-screen printing looks very advantageous in the bedroom or living room. With silk-screen printing, the top layer is reliably protected, so the original color remains for a long time.

Advantages and disadvantages of the coating

Wallpaper is made on the basis of paper or non-woven.

The advantage of this type of wallpaper is that the material:

• dense;
• has a very different texture and colors;
• looks good;
• does not contain toxins;
• can successfully hide a variety of wall irregularities.

Before you start gluing vinyl wallpaper, it is recommended that you find out in detail what this material is.

Thanks to the PVC layer, the thermal conductivity is 0.15 W, which is close in characteristics to drywall. The minimum cost of such wallpaper starts at 420 rubles per square meter.

On a non-woven basis, the product costs more (25 percent)

Disadvantages of vinyl wallpaper:

• sealed, air does not pass through the surface;
• heavy in weight;
• do not glue in a room with high humidity, there is a danger of mold development under the covering.

Dimensions and designations

The size of a roll of vinyl wallpaper is generally standard. The width is 1 meter, and the length is 10 m. But there are exceptions.

On branded products there is a label on the roll that carries information about the quality of the material. The output informs the roll width and length.

• A - acrylic paper-based;
• B - classic paper (duplex, simplex);
• BB - vinyl, foaming was used in the manufacture;
• PR - flat vinyl made using pressing;
• PB - embossed vinyl;
• TCS - there is fabric at the base;
• STR - structural;
• STL - glass.

Symbols are often found behind letters. Each sign means one of the characteristics.

For example, the presence of wavy lines reveals the degree of moisture resistance of the wallpaper. If there is only one wavy line, then such a product is afraid of moisture, it can get wet only once.

Moisture resistant is the presence of three wavy lines. If there is a sign: the whole sun, then this means that the product is not super quality, it will fade quickly.

If there is a sign: the whole sun and the + sign, then they perfectly withstand ultraviolet radiation.

If two sun icons are on top of each other, then this means that the wallpaper is perfectly resistant to sunlight.

Vinyl - with high humidity in the room, they tend to stretch, therefore, before gluing vinyl wallpaper, prepare the surface of the walls.

If residues are present:

• lime;
• paints;
• concrete "blots";
• plaster,

then they must be removed.

Microparticles should not remain on the scotch tape, if they are still present, then we can confidently say that the previous plaster is in poor condition.

Before work, it is recommended to thoroughly prime the entire wall with a putty with bactericidal additives. This will be the best guarantee that in a couple of years the coating will not "bloom" and fungus or mold will not start under it. Before work, you should also check the plane of the wall, how much it is able to absorb moisture. At night, a cellophane film is attached to the wall with adhesive tape. After a day, it is removed, if there is condensation inside the film, this indicates that the wall is not entirely safe.

Surface preparation

The poor quality of wallpapering is due to the presence of micro-voids on the surface. If the wall is poorly prepared, then there will be more such cavities and in fact the sheet will stick only half or thirty percent. Very often, the unevenness of the walls is the reason for poor-quality wallpapering. In order for the wallpaper to serve for a long time, the wall must be perfectly aligned.

In rooms where there is high humidity, mold is likely to appear on the walls. Before gluing, the walls must be primed so that after a short time the fungus does not develop under the wallpaper.

Wall preparation includes the following phases:

• cleaning walls;
• first priming;
• plastering;
• puttying;
• second priming.

The surface should be especially thoroughly cleaned, it may be:

• lime;
• paint;
• old plaster;
• concrete walls.

The latter are easier to process, the most difficult are red brick walls.

What kind of glue to use?

Wallpaper glue is divided into 3 groups.

• For paper wallpapers, processed starch with additives against fungus is produced:

1. Quelyd;
2. Metylan;
3. Axton;
4. Kleo.

• Special glue for wallpaper with a non-woven base, it contains antiseptic components.
• Universal glue - it can be used to glue any type of wallpaper.

Since vinyl wallpaper can have different bases, the adhesives are also different.

The paper base is more technological, it is easy to work with it and it is not difficult to pick up the glue.

The cheapest adhesive is a paste made from flour and starch. You can do it yourself.

There must be a marking that this composition is suitable for use on a paper basis. It is better to glue wallpaper on a non-woven basis with the same non-woven glue and buy it from the same manufacturer that released the wallpaper itself.

If this option is not possible, then it is permissible to purchase:

• Methylane Flizelin Premium;
• Kleo Extra;
• Quelyd is a special non-woven fabric.

It is important to keep in mind that there are heavy and light canvases, respectively, and the glue can also differ in this parameter. It is recommended to carefully read the instructions, manufacturers always indicate: for which wallpaper this product is intended.

Technology and rules for gluing

The gluing procedure is simple: the strips with applied glue are firmly pressed against the wall plane, it is very important to prevent the appearance of bubbles and irregularities.

Vinyl wallpaper is glued using a special compound. Installation is done end-to-end, overlapping vinyl is strictly prohibited, they are dense, the seams will be visible, which is unacceptable.

How do I get started?

The process must begin with the preparation of the workplace. It is impossible to put sheets on top of the old ones, you should thoroughly prepare the plane of the wall and only then begin to smear.

An important detail: a lot depends on the room in which the wallpaper will be located. It is not recommended to use embossed wallpaper for the kitchen due to high humidity.

The texture actively accumulates microparticles and the sheets quickly fade.

For the kitchen, a smooth wallpaper that can be easily wiped off with a damp sponge works best.

How to paste wide wallpapers?

Wide meter sheets are still a rarity, but this format, in fact, does not differ from the usual sizes. The plus is that the number of joints between sheets is noticeably reduced, it is easier to stick it, labor costs are noticeably less.

Foreign manufacturers offer formats for walls twice as wide as domestic ones.

Advantages:

• the price is noticeably lower;
• less labor costs;
• easier to fit seams.

Disadvantages:

• there are difficulties in installation, especially for beginners;
• the smallest deformations of the wall can interfere with work.

If the room is of non-standard size, there are certain difficulties in fitting.

Pasting on corners

The two canvases should not be aligned together at the corners. An overlap sheet should be glued to the corner with an allowance of no more than five centimeters.

All joints are tightly pressed to the surface, only then can they be reliably glued.

Sticking yourself in the corner with an overlap is not very difficult even for wallpaper with a pattern:

• marking is applied;
• a vertical line is correctly applied, which is from the corner at the same distance as the width of the roll;
• glue is applied to the wall, and a layer of glue is also applied to the inside of the canvas of the same width;
• the canvas is glued;
• the second sheet is glued over the overlap.

After the second sheet has been glued, the surface should be carefully rolled with a rubber roller to avoid air pockets that can appear under the wallpaper.

Be sure to follow the vertical line, there should be no distortions.

Butt or overlap?

Butt gluing with trimming and pattern selection is technologically simple: the method makes it possible to create a wallpaper joint in the corner almost invisible, but if wallpaper with large patterns, then this technology is not suitable.

In order to overlap them, you should use a special glue that will be applied to the very edges of the canvas. The first sheet is processed, the canvas is mounted with an overlap of up to 2 centimeters.

Wallpapering begins necessarily from the corner. First, you should make a detailed markup: how the sheet will "lie". On the wall at the top of the corner, an indentation of no more than two centimeters is made behind the width of the wallpaper and then a mark is placed. Then the level is lowered and a vertical line is drawn. It will be a kind of beacon along which the sheets will be aligned during operation.

-How to glue the seams?

When working, special attention should be paid to the joints. They must be well processed: it is unacceptable for air to penetrate under the surface, otherwise “bubbles” will form in these areas after a short time and they will lag behind the wall.

When installing wallpaper with your own hands, you definitely need a companion and a high stepladder. The partner will:

• submit sheets;
• support canvases;
• press the canvases with a brush.

To prevent air from remaining under the wallpaper, press them against the wall during installation from the center to the edge. Uneven remnants of wallpaper at the bottom are carefully removed using a special construction knife.

We cover the ceiling

Before gluing wallpaper to the ceiling, you need to examine its surface.

It is necessary to embroider and putty again:

• cracks;
• chips;
• irregularities.

All ceiling defects will have to be leveled so that the angle with the walls and ceiling is exactly ninety degrees. After the work is completed, it will be necessary to prime the plane with a special primer that penetrates deep into the surface.

If the room has a large percentage of moisture, then one more priming with a special compound will be necessary, which eliminates mold and mildew.

On the ceiling, markings are made for the width of the sheet and glue is applied, the surface of the wallpaper is neatly leveled with a roller.

After the sheets are glued, you should wait a couple of days and therefore glue the skirting boards and borders

Decorating the walls with ordinary paper, even if it is very durable, is not in fashion today, it is much more interesting to figure out how to properly paste vinyl wallpaper, decorate a room with them, creating your own unique design.

What you need to know before gluing vinyl wallpaper?

If you decide to abandon the stereotypes in the decoration of living rooms, first take a broader look at the materials available. Paper today looks almost primitive, but you shouldn't rush to the opposite extreme either - and the traffic jam is quite expensive. Non-woven fabric is quite affordable, but requires very careful handling and, without experience, it is better not to mess with it. It remains to figure out how to properly glue the vinyl wallpaper, perhaps this will be the most optimal solution both in terms of price and ease of decoration.

So the choice is made. Now let's take a closer look at the material that was preferred. In fact, this is the thinnest layer of PVC, or, in other words, polyvinyl chloride, a fairly common flexible plastic. The most common types of wallpaper made from it are smooth and foamed. The former are divided into compact vinyl and silk-screen printing (with the addition of silk threads). The latter, obtained by heat treatment, are divided into varieties such as heavy, high density and chemical embossing.

The advantage of vinyl is that it can be washed, and special impregnations exclude the occurrence of fungi. In addition, the foam or textured surface of the material allows you to hide small irregularities on the wall or ceiling. The disadvantage of such wallpapers is that they are completely impervious to air. In other words, if the house is built with breathable materials, the vinyl finish will turn the premises into a thermos. In the process of gluing, the paper base can stretch, which is why distortions are possible if the material is handled ineptly.

The site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required number of wallpapers.

We glue vinyl wallpaper with our own hands - step-by-step instruction

The first and main rule that must be followed when decorating a room is that in no case glue vinyl wallpaper on uneven walls, the only exception can be small cracks. Yes, the material in question is able to smooth out minor curvatures of the plane of the walls, but here the key word is "minor". And the protrusions are unacceptable, even the most subtle. Therefore, as carefully as possible, using plaster and putty. If you are going to finish on a material with a high degree of moisture absorption, you must first treat it with a primer. Only then do we glue the vinyl wallpaper with our own hands.

The room, the walls of which are to be covered with wallpaper, should not be cold and damp, in addition, you need to turn off the air conditioner and take care of the absence of drafts.

You can weld the glue yourself, it can be a paste or any other option available to you with the addition of PVA. However, homemade composition is not always good, especially if you need to cover the wall with it. The fact is that on dark concrete or on primed cement plaster, it will be difficult to see where the glue has already been applied and where it is not yet. And non-smeared areas will certainly turn into problems when wallpapering the walls. Therefore, it is better to take special mixtures, which, thanks to certain additives, being applied to any plane, paint it in a light pink color, becoming transparent after drying.

Vinyl wallpaper gluing technology step by step

Before starting work, take a plumb line and a pencil, and check how vertical the line of the corner is, from which it is best to start pasting the walls.... Choose an arbitrary angle, preferably the one that is closer to the door, if it is not vertical, we apply a plumb line to the highest point and beat off the line with a coated thread. Next, we will consider in detail the technology of gluing vinyl wallpaper.

How to properly glue vinyl wallpaper - a step by step scheme

Step 1: Layout the wallpaper

On a well-washed and dried floor, unwind the roll face down. We take a tape measure and measure the required length, having previously found out the height of the wall from the ceiling to the plinth (taking into account the ceiling curb). We make notes with a pencil on both edges of the roll and connect them with a cutting line, along which we separate the measured piece of cloth with scissors. Likewise, we divide the remaining roll into equal parts, combining with the previous canvases so that the drawing coincides at the joints.

Step 2: surface preparation

The previously drawn vertical line, from which we need to glue the wallpaper, can easily be smeared when applying glue, so we draw along it with a pencil. Then we have 2 ways. If the vinyl layer is applied to a paper base, use a roller to cover the strip of wallpaper with glue, then fold its ends to the middle and leave it to swell for a precisely measured time, usually indicated on the roll.

In these few minutes, you can just have time to prime the wall with an adhesive mass. If the base is non-woven, the glue is mostly applied with a roller to the wall, and we cover the panel with it only along the perimeter.

Step 3: Getting Started

The most difficult stage begins - do it yourself gluing vinyl wallpaper. We take the first strip by the upper corners (if they are with a paper base, then very carefully, without stretching) and apply along the line marked earlier. You can glue both from the ceiling and with a small indent, observing it around the entire perimeter of the room. Inserting a piece of wallpaper into a plaster molding requires special skill.

We smooth the panel from top to bottom, pressing it against the wall in successive movements. It is best to do this with a wide foam roller, just be sure to take a clean one, do not confuse it with the one with which the glue was smeared.

Step 4: complete wall decoration

Before gluing the joints of vinyl wallpaper, apply the strips to the wall, observing the pattern. Remember, the material you are working with is quite dense and the overlap always looks extremely ugly. In the places where the wires exit the walls (switches, sockets), we make small holes before the panel completely closes this section, and we bring the wiring to the outside of the cut.

Then we continue smoothing. If the ceiling has a slope, for example, in an attic room, we apply the strip end-to-end to the previous one, holding the next cut at the corner closest to the seam, and leave the second one hanging free. Then, pressing the cloth along the upper edge of the wall, cut off the extra piece with a sharp clerical knife.

In the process of smoothing, we make sure that no air remains under the wallpaper, you also need to try not to stretch the canvas, otherwise folds will appear. We also carefully drive the excess glue to the edges and then remove it with a clean rag. If air bubbles are still formed, carefully pierce them with a needle and press the wallpaper in this place, smoothing with a roller. When we reach the corner, we try to keep the strip on the next wall with an edge no wider than 5 centimeters, especially if the corners are uneven. At the end of the work, we carefully trim the still-dry canvas along the plinth and make the holes wider at the locations of the switches and sockets. We dry the wallpaper without air conditioning and drafts, without opening the windows and closing the door tightly.