Do you need a foundation for a self-supporting wall. Self-supporting walls: the difference between the structure and the bearing and non-bearing walls
Walls are structural elements of buildings that serve to separate a room from an external space (external walls) or one room from another (internal walls).
By the nature of the work, the walls are divided into: load-bearing, self-supporting and mounted .
Load-bearing walls take the load from their own weight and other structures and transfer it to the foundations.
Self-supporting walls carry the load only from their own weight along their entire height and transfer it to the foundations.
Curtain walls walls are fences resting on each floor on other elements of the building (frame) and perceive only their own mass within one floor.
The following requirements are imposed on the walls: they must have sufficient strength and stability, have necessary heat and sound insulating properties, be fire-resistant, durable and economical. Sound insulation requirements apply mainly to the walls of residential buildings.
The optimal wall thickness should be at least the limit determined by static and heat engineering calculations.
Since January 1997, Amendments to SNiP 11-3-79 "Construction Heat Engineering" came into force: the required resistance to heat transfer for residential premises has been doubled, and since 2000 it has been increased by 3.45 times. If you follow the letter of the law, then brick walls should be erected with a thickness of 1.5 meters, so it is advisable to use combined structures of external walls: load-bearing part of the wall, of minimum thickness, plus effective insulation and decorative finishing.
By the type of material, the walls can be made of stone, wood, or combined (such as "sandwich"). By design and construction method, stone walls are divided into masonry walls, monolithic and large-panel. Combined walls - various panel-frame houses.
Masonry is a structure made of separate wall stones, the joints between which are filled with masonry mortars. To create a solid monolithic system, the rows of masonry are made with a mismatch between the vertical seams, that is, with their bandaging.
Monolithic wall. The wall structure consists of a reinforcement cage and concrete. To pour concrete, formwork must be set up. The formwork can be removable or non-removable.
Panel-frame at home. Panel houses are usually manufactured in factories and assembled at the customer's site. Panel materials: insulation core (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool), “dressed” on both sides with LSU or OSB sheets.
Frame houses... These houses have many options (factory made or erected on site).
Load-bearing walls are erected in buildings with frameless and incomplete frames. They are made of bricks, small and large blocks. Carrying out both load-bearing and enclosing functions, such walls perceive the load from the roof, ceilings, wind forces and sometimes loads from handling equipment. Bearing walls are supported on foundations. Self-supporting walls carry their own mass within the entire height of the building and transfer it to the foundation beams. Wind loads acting on the walls are perceived by the building frame or half-timbered timber. The wall filling is connected to the frame with flexible or sliding anchors that do not prevent wall settlement. The height of self-supporting walls is limited depending on the strength of the material and the thickness of the wall, the pitch of the wall columns, the magnitude of the wind load, etc. Self-supporting walls are made of bricks, blocks or panels.
Non-bearing (curtain) walls perform mainly enclosing functions. Their mass is completely transferred to the columns of the frame and half-timbered timber, with the exception of the lower sill tier, which rests on the foundation beams. The columns take up the mass of curtain walls through strapping beams, half-timbered girders or steel support tables.
Light curtain walls, being not a supporting structure, have one purpose - to protect the premises from atmospheric influences. The use of effective insulators and thin sheet claddings allows, with a small mass of curtain walls, to ensure their high heat-shielding properties, and their manufacture without wet processes determines a satisfactory humidity regime of premises from the first days of building operation.
Curtain walls made of frame panels with a height of two floors are used in the building of the Institute of Scientific and Technical Information in Kiev. The frame of the panels, measuring 2.8X7.2 m, is made of extruded aluminum profiles, glazing is made of double-glazed windows. Deaf areas of the panels are lined with stemalite on the outside and chipboard on the inside. Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs are used as insulation. The joints between the panels are filled with mineral wool and covered with aluminum protective and decorative elements.
The thickness of the walls with insulation made of foam glass, semi-rigid mineral wool boards, phenolic-resole foam FRP-1 is approximately 100-120 mm, which makes it possible to reduce the volume of the building (without changing the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises) and, accordingly, the consumption of materials. All other things being equal, this helps to reduce the cost of 1 m 2 of buildings.
In buildings erected in the Far North, light panels are mainly used, consisting of two outer aluminum sheets with a thickness of 0.8-1.5 mm, between which there is an insulation (polystyrene foam PSB, PSB-S phenolic FRP-1, vilares-5 or polyurethane PPU-ES, PPU-308, density 35-80 kg / m 3); such panels in most cases have framing ribs. In the Far North, the use of lightweight panels dramatically reduces their thickness - up to 150 mm, and hence the mass (for comparison: the thickness of lightweight concrete walls reaches 600 mm, brick - 770 mm)
Wall panels with dimensions of 1.3x3.5 m and 1.3x4.5 m with cladding made of aluminum sheet 1.5 mm thick, with framing ribs taking transverse loads, of bakelized plywood 10 mm thick and insulation made of polyurethane foam are used in one-story residential buildings in the north.
I wrote this article in April. And I put it aside in the hope that I will pick up illustrations, and, perhaps, I will break it into small blocks - more suitable for the format of this LJ.
But already in January of next year - and when I will do this - I do not know.
Therefore, I post it entirely, without illustrations, and if someone masters it to the end - tell me about it - I will write you as heroes :)
Walls:
The walls of buildings are load-bearing, self-supporting and carried.
What are the differences, how it works and how it manifests itself externally and in architectural aesthetics.
A load-bearing wall is a wall that supports the roof structure (or balconies, or any other load) - this wall, which is a structural element. Part of a working structure. As a post or beam in a post-and-beam system.
A self-supporting wall is a wall that carries nothing extra - but has its own weight. That is, it carries its own weight, at least. The higher it becomes, the more weight, the more it is similar in properties to a carrier.
A bearing wall is a wall that rests not on the bottom, but on the side or top. That is, if it is quite simple, either a thing suspended on something, or nailed to a certain structure as a cladding. Such a wall has basically a fencing function - almost unrelated to the structure.
Imagine a self-supporting wall made of brick or stone.
Ideally, stones and bricks lie flat in it, the load presses from top to bottom. The lower - the greater the load - it is normal if the wall begins to expand and strengthen to the bottom. Perhaps the wall will have a slope - like the walls of fortresses - from above - narrower.
If the wall is loaded and it is load-bearing (or a very large self-supporting one), this whole ideal picture will not work. Because a lot of additional loads will appear in the wall - which, although by design, must act strictly vertically - in fact - due to imperfect density, due to loads that have some lateral shifts, etc. - a lot of stresses will occur inside the wall. Of the obvious and understandable ones - to the edge of the wall, to the corner of the building, all sorts of lateral moments will accumulate and the corner will have the greatest load. Therefore, corners seem to be strengthened and thickened in even simple buildings. Often it is necessary to remove the excess load from window and door openings - so that the lintel is easier. Sometimes during the construction process some tension builds up that needs to be removed.
Load-distributing arches etc. appear in the wall. things.
This is the picture for all load-bearing and self-supporting walls. The corners are reinforced, the masonry is difficult so that there are bandages, the load accumulates to the bottom and the wall thickens.
This is suitable for traditional materials like stone and brick. The same picture is with all modern blocks (in fact, these are the same stones - just artificial). The same picture is near reinforced concrete (monolithic) walls. Only there the internal stresses immediately go to the reinforcement and the strength is much higher than that of natural stone. But the principle is the same.
A little differently near a tree - because you can't put a distributing arch in it. But they don't build from wood and strongly high or heavily loaded walls. But more effort at an angle goes, structures that facilitate lintels appear - that is, the general principles remain.
There is an architectural - aesthetic - expression for load-bearing and self-supporting walls. As an order is an ideal expression of a post-and-beam structure in stone and wood, so for a wall there is an architectural element - rust. Rust is an image of large masonry blocks in the wall. Sometimes laid out of stone, sometimes purely decorative - from plaster. Making rustic - the architect tells us that the wall is load-bearing. Well, or at least self-supporting. The more powerful the rust, the more likely it is a load-bearing wall. To make a pronounced rusticum against a wall that is clearly self-supporting is rather strange. Can. But less justified. And rustic (even exaggeratedly decorative) on the carried panels simply does not understand its essence and construction in general.
Remember we talked about whether the Colosseum warrant was decorative or not. (link)
So - in the Renaissance there is almost the same combination of two structural systems on the facade. On the one hand, there is a rusticated wall - that is, telling the viewer that it is carrying. On the other hand, there are pilasters that seem to show that there is a post-and-beam frame inside.
And the researchers talk about the contradiction of these systems. Or - that the order on such facades is purely decorative.
Firstly, for some reason, no one says that it can be a real karnas - and the filling with a wall between is self-supporting (well, they do not say - because it really is not so - at least in the Renaissance, although I think if you dig around - in the 19th century, such mixed structures already existed - when the frame was connected to the wall)
Secondly - as with the Colosseum - these systems complement each other and intertwine.
As it happens in a real structure: in its most primitive form - An equalizing beam is placed on the load-bearing wall, which distributes all further load evenly. On it - with a certain step, transverse beams are placed on which the floor is held. If there were no beams, the beams would press pointwise and the internal loads in the wall would be more diverse.
But nevertheless - the beams do not press evenly on every cm of the wall.
Second - what we said - the corners are heavily loaded.
And thirdly, if the building has transverse walls - and there are more than 2-3 windows on the facade - then at their junctions with the main wall, there is also a large horizontal load (and by the way, less vertical - if the transverse wall is also load-bearing, but it is usually self-supporting)
So the appearance on the facade of certain vertical elements - semi-columns, pilasters - seems to be from the post-beam system may well be justified. Of course - if they express the internal layout of the building and repeat the internal walls - this is doubly justified. But often you have to cheat somewhere and add extra ones - for an even step or the beauty of the facade.
Nevertheless, this cannot be called purely decorative elements. They are tectonic.
Working in monolithic reinforced concrete, we can absorb all these loads with reinforcement. And make a perfectly smooth flat wall. Nevertheless, this flat wall will only be a decoration - not reflecting the inner work.
Perhaps, in order for a reinforced concrete wall to be a truly pronounced structure, its reinforcement should, as it were, "shine through" - like veins on a person's hands or read like a skeleton. Seeing a living creature, we will not be able to draw its skeleton. But we can completely imagine the main supporting structure inside. Nevertheless - the principle of operation of a reinforced concrete wall does not differ much from a stone (yes, it is stronger, yes - you can do more complex things, large protrusions and lintels - but the principles are the same - the load acts from top to bottom)
So - at the beginning of the 20th century, structures appear that allow you to simply hang a wall on them. Anyone can make a wall. Glass. Lightweight foam, etc. Rolling walls appear.
It must be said that in architecture, a load-bearing, self-supporting or supported structure is a very important criterion. They often differ sharply, they are painted in radically different colors - like black and white half-timbered or white and color classicism.
Therefore, if the wall is unbreakable, it is very important to show and emphasize (well, because we remember that tectonics is the main principle of architecture - and exceptions only confirm the rules)
That is, there are two options - to identify, aestheticize a modern hinged structure. Or knowingly abandon the principle of tectonics - and create something completely different. What deconstructivists do. But it must be done a) masterfully b) explicitly. As a bright focus, theatrical performance. Or pure decorativeness - with a bright color. Ideally, an elegant joke. So far, in mass architecture, I do not see an application and a way for this. This is a separate conversation, of course ...
So - if the wall is unbearable - it would be good to reveal and emphasize it. How can I do that?
1. to identify and show the supporting frame making the wall almost invisible. For example glass. So Foster has a cucumber. Frame - Revealed. Glass is carried. By the way, and Koolhaas (despite the fact that he is a deconstructivist and in general in a Chinese skyscraper does not come from construction). Any buildings “just glass” do not meet this criterion, because the frame is not detected.
2. develop a decorative expression of the fact that the wall does not rest on the bottom, but on the side (or suspended). These can be rivets. (or any other fasteners according to the principle - nails, screws, etc.) These can be some kind of clips along the perimeter - according to the principle of glasses in frames. Such options were made by Otto Wagner for cladding (by the way, all this can also apply to just decorative wall cladding) - this is not rustic - these are panels “nailed” to the wall or frame. In modern architecture, this option is not developed at all.
3. Look for the aesthetics of the vintage rolled walls for the rolled walls. For example, in skins that were stretched over the frame of yurts, etc. dwellings ... To go by demonstrating that the wall is flexible and cannot hold without an internal supporting frame - that means it is there. Perhaps the time has not yet come for this - and there is no modern technology of flexible fabric for walls yet. Especially as it provides for windows. Although I think it is quite possible. But this is a question for technologists ... it is partly expressed by Zaha Hadid - in her flexible walls.
Those who decide to engage in construction or redevelop an already erected building should know what a load-bearing wall is and how its destruction threatens. The purpose of the load-bearing wall is the ability to take on loads from other parts of the building, floors and roof. In order not to face the danger of destruction of the building, before starting work, you need to determine which walls are bearing and carry out all the planned measures without touching these structures.
What is the difference
The walls are the main structural part of the building, but not all of them are able to withstand the load from the floors and the roof. For this purpose, each building is equipped with load-bearing walls. Partitions help to divide the space in the built house, which are able to withstand only the load from their own weight. Such walls are called self-supporting. The purpose of each non-bearing wall is to serve as a space delimiter, if necessary, simply select a separate room.
Simply put, load-bearing walls are structures on which something rests. In every building, load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls play an important role, but if the load-bearing is a reliable support, a high-quality building frame, then it is not a load-bearing partition, which, if desired, can be demolished during redevelopment without causing damage to the building. All walls are subdivided into load-bearing, self-supporting and non-bearing. Already from the name it becomes clear which of them are being built in order to take on the main load.
Such a partition can be built from:
- bricks,
- aerated concrete.
I install monolithic slabs as self-supporting walls in panel houses. These curtain walls can be used to create an additional passage by cutting openings in them and installing doors.
To correctly recognize which walls are load-bearing means to successfully carry out redevelopment without violating building codes and regulations, without risking creating a situation, the end result of which will be the destruction of the building. , which means that the distribution of the load will change, and this will lead to a distortion of the building, the collapse of the floor and the cracking of the remaining capital structures.
They ensure the safety not only of the apartment in which renovation or redevelopment is planned. The safety of dwellings located on the lower floors depends on their quality and integrity. The main difference between load-bearing structures and self-supporting ones is. Knowing the difference is not enough, you need to be able to correctly determine which wall is the bearing.
It is necessary to know exactly which walls can be demolished during redevelopment, and which ones should remain intact, at what thickness it is permissible to make an opening in the wall, and when it is too dangerous to perform such work.
There are certain requirements that I place on load-bearing walls:
- Strength and stability.
- Compliance with all fire safety standards.
- High level of heat, hydro, sound insulation.
Another feature of the load-bearing wall, due to which such structures are distinguished, is the uniform distribution of the horizontal load exerted by the floor slabs. An important criterion for strength, reliability and stability is the thickness of the load-bearing wall. This value is set for brick, monolithic and panel interior walls.
Strict adherence to established standards makes it easier to identify the load-bearing wall in any building or room.
Definition
Having learned what a load-bearing wall is, you can understand how important the construction of this structure is in strict accordance with all existing norms and rules. Such walls are a natural continuation of the building itself, the beginning of which is the foundation. To avoid great difficulties and troubles in the process of redevelopment, you need to know how to determine the load-bearing wall in the apartment. In most cases, it is enough to carefully study the technical documentation and determine the location of the bearing walls on the building plan. However, it happens that there is no plan and you have to independently establish the quality and purpose of the erected structures.
The peculiarity of the construction of panel buildings is that in a monolithic house, reinforced concrete panels are used as a supporting structure. Their thickness ranges from 100 to 200 mm. Structures made of gypsum concrete panels act as interior partitions, and their thickness does not exceed 80-100 mm. Thus, by measuring the thickness of the wall, it is possible to recognize the load-bearing wall, which is strictly forbidden to demolish in such a building. Failure to comply with the established rules will lead to inevitable deflection and collapse of the floor.
One of the most important indicators is the thickness of the bearing walls in brick houses. To distinguish a load-bearing wall, you need to know its thickness, but it is better to have a building plan on which all load-bearing structures are marked. Self-supporting walls in an apartment, as a rule, are much thinner than capital structures. The thickness of the walls that carry the load from their own weight varies from 5 cm to 400 mm. Such a partition can be erected from drywall, but more often it is a wall erected of bricks (half-brick masonry).
An experienced master will tell you how to find out the load-bearing wall or not in a brick house, but the size of the structure will also help to understand this. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that the thickness of the brick wall is a multiple of this brick parameter, plus the thickness of the adhesion layer and the finishing material. Thus, you can find out which wall is in front of the builders. The thickness of the partition does not exceed 380 mm, and this size is the minimum for a load-bearing wall. The greatest thickness of the load-bearing wall in a brick house is 640 mm. The peculiarity of this structure is that an opening can be made in such walls. This is justified by the ability to provide additional reinforcement to maintain an even distribution of horizontal load.
To distinguish which walls can be demolished, and which are strictly prohibited, their parameters will help:
- from 80 to 380 mm - an interior partition, which can be demolished if necessary;
- from 380 to 510 mm - internal load-bearing wall, subject to demolition, subject to high-quality reinforcement;
- from 510 to 640 mm - external load-bearing wall.
Brick houses were either built according to a structural plan, a distinctive feature of which is the presence of 3 longitudinal bearing walls (green on the plan) and transverse walls, called stiffening diaphragms (highlighted in blue).
The owners of apartments with windows facing the front side of the house had the opportunity to build an extension or even make an additional window. You can get more detailed answers to all existing questions by watching the video.
When starting to work on the redevelopment of housing, you need to carefully study the apartment plan, which indicates the dimensions and purpose of the walls, if there is no opportunity to familiarize yourself with the documentation, then you should not make important decisions without measuring the thickness of the walls.
one of the most widespread types of walls. The purpose of the load-bearing walls is to withstand the load from the floors and roofs, as well as provide the necessary thermal insulation. For the construction of load-bearing walls, materials with sufficient strength are used: natural stone, brick, cinder block, concrete blocks, monolithic concrete, etc. However, the greater the strength of the material, the greater its density and, accordingly, the lower its resistance to heat transfer. Therefore, the thickness of load-bearing walls made of brick, natural stone or heavy concrete, sufficient for the strength and stability of the wall, is often insufficient to provide thermal insulation according to the latest thermal engineering standards. If earlier the thickness of the brickwork of the outer wall of 51 cm was considered sufficient for some climatic regions, now even 77 cm of the thickness of the brickwork of the outer wall is not always enough for the same areas. Therefore, external load-bearing walls are increasingly made not of one material, but of at least two. In this case, the first material provides the necessary strength and stability, and the second - thermal insulation. In low-rise buildings, external load-bearing walls can be made of less durable materials such as cinder block, lightweight, porous and cellular concrete.
Self-supporting walls
are made in frame buildings, often self-supporting walls are called enclosing structures. In frame buildings, the frame is calculated for the load from the floors, overlying walls and roofs, thus, the load on the self-supporting walls only from the dead weight of the material from which the self-supporting walls are made. This makes it possible to use almost any materials for the construction of self-supporting walls that can withstand wind load and the effects of atmospheric precipitation. Self-supporting walls can be brick and stone and heavy concrete, but for the reasons given above, materials that have the necessary resistance to heat transfer are usually used for the construction of self-supporting walls. In addition, wall materials must have good frost resistance and low water absorption. The more water is absorbed by the wall material, the worse the thermal insulation will end up and the faster the material can collapse when the absorbed water freezes in winter. But as a rule, less dense materials, due to their structure, have a sufficiently high water absorption and therefore often need additional protection.
Well, now let's take a closer look at the most commonly used
Wall materials:
Building materials used for the construction of walls can be classified according to various criteria: by origin, by method of production, by strength, by weight, by thermal conductivity, by size, by simplicity and speed of installation, by availability, by aesthetics, by environmental friendliness, by price etc. Each of the above signs is certainly important, so choosing the most suitable option when building your home is not so easy. One of the most indicative to me is the classification of wall materials by size and weight, since most construction sites of private houses are united by a low level of mechanization, which means that most of the loads are lifted by hand. Further, the materials for the walls are considered from this position, while along the way, brief characteristics of the materials are given according to other indicated signs.
By size, wall materials are divided into:
Small piece wall materials.
Small pieces are materials that can be handled relatively easily. As a rule, the weight of one element does not exceed 20-30 kg. Accordingly, wall elements made of denser materials have smaller dimensions than elements made of less dense materials. Small-piece wall materials include:
A natural stone
obtained from rocks.
Earthen and earth walls are also erected with the help of formwork, but such walls are very rare lately.
As you can see, despite the fact that people have long gone down from the trees, out of the caves and out of the dugouts, the material for the walls is still wood, stones, and sometimes clay. So don't believe in genetic memory after that ...
In a previous article, I talked about how to correctly calculate the foundation for a brick house, but today we will consider diagram of the foundation itself and determine under what walls it is needed. Also, in this article, I will talk about how to prepare a site and correctly mark all the walls under which concrete will be poured.
We have already figured out which foundation is better for a brick house, and, in our case, the choice fell on the tape, but in order not to repeat ourselves, we will immediately proceed to the scheme.
Foundation scheme for a brick house
In order to decide on the strip foundation scheme, let's take a look at the layout of the rooms in the house.
As we can see, there are a lot of walls in the house, and pouring a monolithic reinforced concrete tape under each of them is impractical, since in this case, the cost of the foundation will at least double.
In most cases, it is sufficient to build a foundation only under load-bearing and heavy walls. Thin and relatively light partitions can be erected on a rough concrete (reinforced concrete) floor.
Load-bearing and self-supporting walls
Now let's take a look at the diagram of the foundation itself, and then I will explain on what basis the internal load-bearing walls were selected.
Carriers walls No. 1 and No. 2 are designed to more evenly transfer the load from the roof to the foundation. Their additional purpose is not to give significant "sagging" to the wooden ceiling beams, since there is a very large distance between the opposite outer walls.
The diagram below shows how the ceiling wooden beams will be located, on which the entire roof will rest.
In this regard, these walls will be at least 20 - 25 cm thick, which means they will already have a relatively large weight. In addition, the roof will still rest on them, and the absence of a foundation under such walls is fraught with consequences.
Wall number 3 separates the garage from the main house. No matter how well the garage is heated, it will still be the coldest room in the house in winter due to the constantly opening gates.
So, in connection with the above, in order to retain heat in the house, it was decided to make this wall thickened, the same as all the outer walls. Although it will be, practically, self-supporting, it will still have significant weight, which implies that there is a sufficient foundation under it.
The rest of the walls separating the rooms and other rooms from each other can be made with thin partitions, the load from which can be easily sustained by a reinforced concrete floor, poured over the ground. In other words, the foundation under the self-supporting thin partitions will not be poured.
Foundation thickness under load-bearing walls
In the previous article, in which we calculated the foundation for a brick house, I said that the entire monolithic reinforced concrete tape will be 40 cm thick, despite the fact that the total thickness of the outer walls will be about 50 cm.
The diagram below shows how a 50cm wide wall will be located on a 38cm wide plinth. (Why the foundation is 40cm, and the plinth is 38cm - read in the previous article).
The diagram is rather approximate and, accordingly, without observing the proportions. Parameters such as the thickness of the sand cushion, the thickness of the monolithic reinforced concrete slab, etc. - we will consider later, in the relevant topics.
Since a rough reinforced concrete floor will be immediately poured over the basement, there will be no "sagging" of the wall, and for strength and support on the ground, the base of the foundation 40 cm will be sufficient. This will save on foundation.
Site preparation and foundation marking
Your main enemy in the process of marking the foundation is grass and uneven ground, due to which most of the errors in measurements occur. Therefore, before marking, the future construction site was cleared of tall vegetation (grass, bushes, etc.). In most cases, it is enough to use a trimmer (benzo or electric scythe) to clean and prepare the site.
Nothing had to be leveled, since the construction site was already more or less level.
Of course, some time and effort was spent on cleaning, but this made it possible to more accurately mark the foundation and subsequently greatly facilitated and accelerated the work.
It should be added that in our region they monitor the cleanliness of plots, and abandoned and overgrown ones require a significant fine for the owner.
Strip foundation marking
The marking was carried out using a tape measure, a cord, pegs made of reinforcement d8mm, and a hammer with which these pegs were driven in.
First of all, we determine the location of the house on the site. It looks like this schematically:
Before marking the location of the house on the site, carefully study the documents permitting construction. There should be spelled out the basic rules for placing a house, relative to the red line and neighboring plots. In the diagram, the red line is below.
Now, you need to mark the rectangular perimeter of the entire house. Below in the diagram, the perimeter is indicated by red dots.
Only after that, you can start marking the foundation. Now there is something to start from and mark all the walls will not be difficult.
The procedure and technology for accurately marking the foundation for the house, without the use of expensive tools and devices, is very simple and detailed in one of the previous articles. In our case, it was produced in exactly the same way, so we will not dwell on this.
After accurately marking the perimeter of the house, checking the coincidence of the sizes of the diagonals, we marked out all the outer walls, and then the inner ones. Thus, everything was ready for the next stage of construction of our future home.
It should be added that the marking was done together for about 2 hours, since the house is huge with a lot of corners. By the way, the markup can be done by one person, but it is quite long and difficult to do for sure.
Well, in principle, that's all that concerns foundation diagrams for the house, as well as all preparatory work. Well, in the next article we will proceed directly to the construction of the foundation itself for a brick house.
