What kind of glue to glue the paper label to the plastic. Bonding of various materials: expert advice

so that the paper does not wrinkle or deteriorate tightly.
i tried PVA - more reliable with snot.
Superglue is not suitable. There is some component that spoils the paper.
What other suggestions?

unfamiliar words, sorry .. on free sale?
Are they on sale in Argument?

And the clerical is what? Normal, which you used in childhood?

Well, yes, silicate.
Or there, in the Argument they sell lipstick types, maybe they just stick on

Like lipstick - is it a glue stick?
Will they take it?
I was just amazed by the PVA effect .. I tried it - this bitch stained the paper + when it dried, the paper flew off almost by itself

\u003e Will they take it?
I don't know, I always glued it with superglue when it was necessary.

no, about the quality of superglue - so he even sticks his fingers together - he doesn't care. But he has some kind of crap there, and when you glue the paper, it turns out to be one continuous greasy spot.

any glue will saturate your paper. Deal with it. For strong adhesion to plastic (excluding polyethylene, polypropylene and Teflon), Moment glue, nitrocellulose glue, epoxy glue are suitable.

sanding the plastic before applying the glue should help

what about this option:
glue a layer of paper onto the plastic with superglue - the effect of a fir stain will be reflected on the layer + the surface will change. And then with ordinary glue (the same PVA) to glue what you need. So will it ride?

listen, I need to stick the plsmass to the shiny paper. can you help?

How about double-sided tape or glue for gluing ceilings (it is transparent, glues any materials, just forgot the name), the last one glued the demobilized form, held on with a bang.

Stick paper tape over the plastic. and to it paper with ordinary paper glue))) everything ingenious is simple)))

screensaver - thank you very much for the idea.

for the idea of \u200b\u200bsticking one paper first and then what is needed, I already broke my whole head

The paper does not spoil the glue, the moment the crystal after drying is flexible but smells very much and has not tried it on large surfaces but sticks buttons to the paper normally

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This thread has 5 replies, 3 participants, last updated by Vladimir listok 03/22/2010 | 11:05.

Hello Lord!
There is a task of the following kind, the customer gave a paper card printed on an inkjet, to the touch of about 90g / m2. The card should lie under the transparent acrylic on the back of the PVC card and all this sandwich is in Nelson, everything is assembled, but the card under the acrylic comes in waves, what kind of glue can be glued to the PVC so that it does not get saturated? Scotch tape tried to see the stripes. Thank you in advance!

There is 3 M glue in a cylinder 77 oh, it will do the job perfectly.

So as not to bear fruit for those who have come across vector topographic maps of Russia. Where can I find?

Orabond (double-sided roll-up tape). Best results when rolled in a cold laminator, but rolled with a squeegee more than once. The trouble is if one of the dimensions of the map is more than a meter ... although, if my memory serves me, I met it somewhere with a width of 1.26 meters.

There was only 3M-75th in stock.

Aha 75 also glues, only 77 will be more powerful than the 75th, we fix a sublimation printout on fabric when we print flags.

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Do you have starch? Dilute with hot water, get a paste and glue. This can even be done with flour.

Is there any garlic? Its juice can also be glued, even glass.

Scotch? Would it be nice to have two-sided? - Forward!

Ordinary oil paint - why not glue?

You can dissolve the film, washed with boiling water from the photo layer, in acetone - you will get a very good glue.

Foam can be dissolved in acetone.

True, it all depends on WHAT exactly and with what you want to glue.

You can try to glue the paper with boiled potatoes. We smeared the paper with boiled potatoes cut in half and pressed the sides of the paper to each other, at the very least, but it will hold on.

I do not know any other means, except how to make starch.

You can also melt a piece of linoleum, a plastic bag, and such combustible materials are melted and glued together.

If there is no glue at hand, but you need to glue something, you can make the glue yourself. For these purposes, acetone and foam are needed.

Pour into a container, a bowl and add a little styrofoam to it, crumbling it. Stir gently until the foam completely dissolves and the formation of tractors, a sticky consistency that can be glued.

Here, of course, the question is not clear a little: it all depends on what exactly needs to be glued. If, for example, paper or cardboard, then this is elementary. In this case, the usual double-sided stationery tape helps me. It is easy to find in any stationery store. Peel off the protective layer and voila, you have two whole adhesive sides available. Holds perfectly.

You can also fasten the paper with a stapler, paper clip, or, for example, potato starch.

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Plastic products are widespread in everyday life. In the event of a breakdown, you need to know what kind of plastic adhesive you need for repair. To make the gluing result strong and safe, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the types of plastic and the rules for selecting an adhesive.

Since some adhesives may dissolve rather than bond the plastic, it is advisable to examine the markings on the broken product. The plastic type icon looks like a triangle formed by arrows (recycling symbol). Inside it there are numbers from 1 to 7, and below there is an inscription. These identification marks determine the belonging of the material to one or another type of plastic, which will allow you to choose the right glue.

What types of plastic exist:

1 (PET) - stands for polyethylene terephthalate. It is used to produce food packaging for liquid products.
2 (HDPE) - high density polyethylene, intended for the production of packaging and shrink films.
3 (PVC) - polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC. Plastic windows, linoleum, etc. are made from it.
4 (LDPE) - low density polyethylene, used for making toys for children, pipes, bottles, packaging.
5 (PP) - polypropylene, heat-resistant material. It is used for the production of food packaging, medical disposable instruments, household appliances, pipes, thermal dishes.
6 (PS) - polystyrene. Disposable tableware is made of it. Expanded polystyrene is widely used in construction.
7 (O) - This type of plastic is not recyclable, consists of a mixture of polymers, paper, foil.

Glue second

The main difficulty is that the adhesive labeling does not match the plastic recycling symbols.

How is adhesive for plastic labeled:

PE - polyethylene;
PC - polycarbonate;
PP - polypropylene;
PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
PMMA - organic glass;
PUR - polyurethane;
PA 66 is a polyamide.

Sometimes it is easier to find a clear instruction in Russian than a marking icon. But if there are no recommendations on the packaging, then the designations will help you make the right choice.

Plastic has low adhesion due to its smoothness, therefore it is more difficult to glue it than other materials. In industry, such products are fastened by welding. This method is not used at home, but you can pick up a good glue. The principle of operation of the composition is as follows: it dissolves the surface, and with strong squeezing, the parts are connected. Therefore, the main component of plastic glue is a solvent for synthetic polymers. For viscosity, the composition contains liquid polystyrene.

Liquid adhesive for plastic and moment plastic

The group of adhesives for plastics can be divided into the following types:

Hot glue... It is a solid glue stick. Warm them up before use. There are special guns for convenient application of hot melt glue, there are also types of glue for use without a gun. Such a composition is suitable for small jobs, since it does not have a particular bond strength.
Contact... It is often sold complete with a hardener, which must be mixed with the bulk in the proportions indicated on the pack. This type of glue can tightly glue plastic, but there is one drawback: the product is toxic. Use personal protective equipment. For a better fastening of the parts after applying the glue, you need to wait 10 minutes, and only then squeeze them firmly.
Liquid adhesive for plastic is water-based and considered the least effective bonding method. It dries up for a long time (at least a day). It is used to repair small items that are not subject to increased stress. But liquid glue samples do not deform plastic, this is very important for working with small parts.
Reactionary - a reliable and affordable glue for plastic. There are several types of such compounds: some are designed to work under water, others freeze under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and still others work in the open air. There are one-component and two-component.

3M Scotch-Weld PR100

Advice! Do not use toxic contact adhesive to glue children's toys.

What can be found on the shelves of hardware and hardware stores:

« Momentplastic" is a type of glue that connects many types of plastics. It has a transparent base, sets quickly and forms a strong bond. It is water and heat resistant. However, it contains toxic substances and is not used to repair products that come into contact with food or skin.
"Super Moment»- second glue.
3M Scotch-Weld PR100 - epoxy adhesive, hardens in 20 seconds. Simple and easy-to-use composition.
Cosmofen is a brand that offers several types of glue for plastic. Among them, adhesive sealant for transparent plastic, composition Plus for PVC, PMMA - adhesive for polystyrene and acrylic surfaces.
« Second»- super glue for hard plastics. One of the fastest-acting formulations.
For minor car repairs, special car sealants for plastic are sold.
Rexant - hot melt glue, available in the form of rods. It can be transparent or colored (for masking joints if colored parts are connected).
Akfix HT300 - heat and water resistant composition. Withstands temperatures up to +300 degrees. This adhesive contains silicone. It reacts to humid air.

This is by no means the whole assortment offered by the adhesive industry. This is not to say that some kind of glue is better or worse. Each train is designed for specific types of work. Read the instructions carefully and follow all recommendations.

Rexant and Akfix HT300

The type of plastic is established, the desired glue is selected. How to glue plastic items correctly:

Details should be cleaned. If necessary, degrease the item with soapy water or ethyl alcohol. A clean surface has more adhesion and the items will be easier to glue.
It won't hurt to lightly sand the surfaces to roughen them. This will help the glue stick better.
Two-component compounds are mixed only after surface preparation.
If the parts are covered with glue with a brush, then an object with artificial bristles is taken.
The adhesive is applied in such an amount that, when compressed, its excess does not come to the surface.
You need to squeeze objects together tightly, but carefully.
The adhesion time of the materials depends on the selected adhesive.

Advice! Use a needle to glue a thin crack.

Sometimes you need to attach a wide variety of materials to plastic: wood, glass or metal. In this case, the adhesive must take into account the characteristics of the two surfaces to be joined, and not just the plastic.

Glue Super moment

Work tips with plastic:

For outdoor work, waterproof glue is used.
Despite the high temperature that the glue can withstand, the plastic items themselves should not be exposed to it.
When working with contact adhesive, it is necessary to ventilate the room.
The best adhesive for marking 7 (O) is epoxy. This type is also suitable for polystyrene.
If there is no marking on the product, then proceed from this: for plastic toys and artificial glass, polystyrene is taken mainly; for bottles, buckets and boxes, glue for polypropylene and polyethylene is suitable.

Take the time to study the labeling of plastic products and glue. If the repair of small toys such as "Lego" is a simple process, then for more serious work the usual Secunda glue may not be suitable.

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Garlic juice. True smell ..
Well, a torn bill can be sealed like this) Anyway, give it back later
Colorless nail polish (not always suitable, but you can glue the photo)
Yeah, starch paste is also gut, And get starch by rubbing the potatoes on a juicer, pouring a bowl of water and letting it settle a little. He will be at the bottom

stapler)
wallpaper glue)
snot)))
corrector)

boil starch and thicken

sugar syrup, starch, yes.

Nail polish, paints (not strongly diluted with water), putty, some sweet syrup.
In extreme cases, there is scotch tape and snot / drooling 😀

Maybe an egg white? Or soap, or flour paste.

No need to be smart with any epoxy! With it, then remove the hemorrhoids excess glue, tk. she is very sticky, tenacious and viscous.

Take PVA glue marked D3 (or D2, as a last resort). This marking indicates the class of water resistance. The number 3 is the maximum available and is placed on construction glue intended for external (!) Assembly of parts. This glue is the most durable and absolutely waterproof, transparent. Do not take any PVA from the "moments", because they tend to turn red and are filthy in quality (I checked it more than once). Take from firms Pufas (best), Krass (very good).
The places of gluing must be sanded to clean wood from varnish and paint, old glue. If you doubt the final strength of the joint, then after gluing on the back side, they drilled with a thin drill and through both parts put a thin wooden pin on the glue (from a toothpick or a confectionery wooden skewer (thicker)). Remove excess glue immediately, as soon as it thickens slightly, with dry wood chips.

P.S. If you nevertheless choose an epoxy, then take the one that is in small tubes and mixes conveniently 1: 1. Do not take the one that says "for gluing metal", because it is gray, not transparent. It is better to remove excess resin immediately using acetone. It will be very difficult to remove it later. In any case, before the final gluing, make a probe on anything you don't mind.

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Dear friends, I have again a question for the audience, "because you know everything." not that I didn't know how to glue paper. 🙂 But progress is stepping forward, the market is overwhelmed with a million varieties of glue, and the task is serious.
Imagine a postcard like this:

Paper - 300g. On it - glossy printing by a plotter. those. the surface is smooth enough. And this card, ideally, will be opened and closed several times in a lifetime, i.e. it will be moved, and I would like it not to fall apart from this.

Read also: How and what to glue stones for an aquarium

In this postcard, I specially designed everything so that large planes would stick to the ride. But when somewhere you need to glue a very small "dart" (and the gluing plane is some 5 mm, and there is a certain tension, and this place will be subjected to some load), it falls apart even more readily.

I have books for children, so voluminous that they will soon be 30 years old. And they still have not fallen apart (apart from those places that were simply torn off by children). Is that how they were glued?

For me today, the most reliable glue is good old PVA. He, if he dries up and grabs, holds tight. But it has two drawbacks: if you spread it on a more or less noticeable plane, it can give waves. And it also releases quite a lot of moisture when it dries. Sometimes you put something freshly glued under a press or in a frame, and after a couple of days a note comes out of there - wet! Those. you can't just stick it together and give it away - you have to dry it. Well, that's okay. I am mainly confused by the waves in PVA.

And all the rest. There is a so-called "hot gun" with plastic tubes that melt and glue them. It supposedly holds well. But the layer turns out to be too thick, and it falls off too.
There are all kinds of sticks like that, they are often praised. But I don’t believe them either. After some time, everything glued together safely falls apart.

Of course, it would be nice that the glue does not get dirty too much. This is what else PVA is good for - it becomes transparent after drying.

Many people praise rubber glue. But in the first place, sometimes it unexpectedly gives oily spots. And secondly, over time, it also erodes and evaporates.

There is also a normal paste, which seems to be boiled from starch. Like this:
http://www.manufactum.de/papierkleber-coccoina-p752391/
But he did not convince me either.

Accordingly, the question is: what is the best glue for paper? To hold well. Even if the bonding area is small, and there is some load? And so that there is not a lot of dirt (and all sorts of greasy stains) from it. And so that the paper does not ripple, all wet. And for a long time. So that in a year or five it will also hold out.

Well, or maybe just someone knows what in industrial production (in printing houses?) They glue voluminous books and voluminous postcards?

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Do you think it is possible to glue something without glue? At first glance, it seems that it is impossible. Sometimes to the question of one person: "How will I glue this?" you can hear the answer: "What you want!" Is it funny? Of course, but there is a certain grain of truth in this. How you can glue without glue, you will learn by doing this simple experiment.

What you need:
seven identical wine corks;
a bowl of water.

Experience
Place the plug vertically in a bowl of water - it will tip over on its side. However, there is still a way to make it float vertically. It is based on a simple physical phenomenon.
Place seven identical wine corks on the table vertically in the shape of a hexagon (one cork in the center, six around it). Now take the whole seven at once with one hand and immerse it completely in water (it should moisten the corks from all sides). Then lift the plugs slightly to the surface and gently release.

Result
The corks will float vertically on the surface of the water, tightly pressed against each other, as if they were glued together!

Explanation
This "sticking" of the plugs is due to a physical phenomenon called intermolecular attraction. The fact is that if the smallest particles of substances - molecules - are located very close to each other, they are mutually attracted. In the overwhelming majority of cases, it is impossible to "move" the molecules of solids to each other so close that they "stick together" because of the unevenness of the surface of these objects. However, water (or another liquid) easily fills these irregularities, and as a result, the molecules of one plug are attracted by water molecules, which are attracted from the opposite side by the molecules of the other plug. For example, a sheet of paper will not hold on to a dry window, but if you wet the glass or sheet, then it is easy.

The principle of intermolecular attraction, for example, is the basis for gluing protective films (also without glue) on the screens of mobile phones and tablet computers. An elastic film is laid on the flat and smooth surface of the glass screen, which adheres firmly due to the attraction between the molecules.

Difficulty: the experiment can be performed independently.

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Unlike thin paper, cardboard is a tougher and denser material, so ordinary clerical (silicate) glue cannot do this task, especially when it comes to gluing large parts.

PVA is a classic adhesive based on an aqueous dispersion of polyvinyl acetate. This composition is successfully used for gluing various porous materials - paper, cardboard, wood, fiberboard, MDF, fabric, etc. Today PVA remains the most popular glue in cardboard modeling.

Suitable for bonding almost all natural materials.

On sale you can find several varieties of this glue: stationery, household, universal and construction.

By choosing pVA glue for cardboard, we recommend paying attention to the universal PVA glue, the so-called PVA-MB. It is not as liquid as clerical, and not as rough as construction, which is used for gluing linoleum and carpet.

It is most profitable to buy universal PVA glue in hardware stores, where it is sold, as a rule, in large packages (500 g, 1 kg, etc.). As for the shortcomings, it has only one PVA glue - after drying, the parts to be glued jar a little.

Moment Joiner Express is a modern adhesive from Henkel. Designed specifically for working with wood, plywood, veneer, fiberboard, MDF, cardboard and other natural materials.

Its composition resembles PVA glue, however, it is improved with special additives that improve the adhesion of the composition, make it more elastic when dry. Glue corrugated cardboard this glue is very convenient, since the glue seam quickly sets, eliminating the slipping of the glued parts.

Moment Joiner Express after drying becomes colorless, which is important when modeling - the glue will not be noticeable in the seams between the parts to be glued.

UHU Holzleim Express Modeling Glue is a fast-setting wood glue with surprisingly high adhesive properties.

Specially developed by UHU specialists for modeling, doing housework, repairing wooden furniture, etc. It is designed for gluing any wood and wood-like materials in any combination.

Ideal for gluing cardboard and paper, also for gluing cardboard to cardboard.

It is irreplaceable when fast setting of the glued surfaces is required. After drying it becomes transparent, resistant to moisture.

Moment Universal Gel is a modern waterproof and frost-resistant express glue in the form of a gel, thanks to which it does not spread or drip.

Retains elasticity after drying, does not warp or deform the parts to be glued.

Moment Universal Gel is widely used in modeling and creative work when it is necessary to quickly and reliably glue wood, ceramics, PVC, rubber, cork, fabrics and other materials.

Ideal for gluing paper, cardboard and corrugated board, incl. inclined surfaces and surfaces of a large area.

"505" Universal instant glue is a liquid transparent adhesive composition similar to water in consistency. Designed for bonding metal, rubber, leather, ceramics, paper, cardboard, wood, plastic, etc.

Indispensable when you need instant fixation of small parts made of paper and cardboard during modeling.

Paper (cardboard) modeling is one of the most accessible types of technical creativity, however, when working with cardboard and glue, certain nuances should be taken into account.

In particular, it is necessary to work extremely carefully with water-based adhesives, since when the water dries, the material "pulls" and the product begins to deform.

To prevent the paper from warping when drying, the glue should be applied in a thin even layer to one of the surfaces to be glued. After that, the parts are connected and ironed so that no air bubbles form under them.

There is no need to try to assemble the model quickly, this should be done in stages, only after the frame has completely dried.

When working with Moment adhesive, precautions should be taken, since it is made on the basis of solvents. It is not recommended to inhale its vapors, as they are toxic; after bonding, the product should be left to dry in a ventilated room.

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At home or at work, people often face the need to glue paper to cardboard. This situation is well known to office workers, lovers of arts and crafts (modeling from cardboard, scrapbooking, applique or quilling), as well as most parents with preschool children or schoolchildren. How to glue the cardboard, or what kind of glue to glue the paper to it is not an idle question, especially given the different density of these two materials and the weighty thickness of the cardboard. Not every glue can glue paper and cardboard so that this connection is reliable and looks aesthetically pleasing!

Before deciding the best way to glue cardboard and paper, you need to find out what characteristic properties such an adhesive should have. For the adhesive bond between cardboard and paper to be strong enough, the adhesive must be:

medium consistency (not thick and not liquid), so that it can be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued, while thinner paper should not warp from excess moisture;
without a strong unpleasant odor;
environmentally friendly and non-toxic;
colorless when dry, so that a yellow tint does not appear at the bonding site, spoiling the appearance;
convenient and comfortable to use.

The adhesive composition for cardboard and paper must have good adhesion to porous materials, and when cured, form a flexible glue line. It is best to choose a ready-to-use adhesive that can be applied with a dispenser or brush.

There is a wide variety of adhesives on the market today that can be used to bond paper to cardboard. Each of them satisfies most of the properties required for gluing cardboard and paper, but has some disadvantages:

silicate glue gives a strong, but not elastic enough seam;
dry glue stick does not warp thin paper, but has low adhesion;
pVA stationery glue contains a large amount of water;
transparent grades of polyurethane glue form a neat elastic seam, do not warp the paper, but have a high cost;
gum arabic, which is the resin of dried acacia juice of some varieties, is not ready for use;
a flour or starch paste must also be prepared before use.

The most convenient, inexpensive and reliable glue that can be used to glue paper to cardboard neatly and aesthetically is PVA glue made on the basis of a polyvinyl acetate dispersion. Only for this purpose, you need to choose not the clerical option, but its other types, for example:

universal glue PVA-MB;
universal KU or KU-27;
super PVA glue "Moment";
pVA wallpaper glue and some other varieties with a lower water content.

It is PVA glue that is the most common and popular for gluing paper and cardboard.

To glue the paper to the cardboard as smoothly as possible with PVA glue, you must:

apply a thin layer of glue to one of the glued surfaces;
gently lay their friend on top of another, and smooth out with your hand, removing air from under the paper;
put the product to be glued under the press for 15 minutes;
let the glue dry for 24 hours.

For neat gluing of cardboard and paper, buy high-quality glue from trusted manufacturers - such as our company, ChMP "Concord"!

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Master class on decoupage on wood: Implanting a laser print on nail polish remover.

Master class on aging wood and implantation (implantation) of napkins. Author - Marie Zhukova.

Shading in decoupage. http://www.decoupage-k.com.

"Beauty in details" N. Rodin At the webinar: Decoupage and decor: famous classic pr.

IMITATION OF METAL AS I SEE HER I. IMITATION OF METAL AS I SEE HER I. Margarita Tsybato.

Useful tips (what, how and what to glue on)

Before proceeding with the direct gluing of the motif to the surface, the surface must be processed so that the motive holds better and the product itself looks like a finished work. The surface can be different: wood, plastic, glass, porcelain (dishes), metal or cardboard. The surface preparation is different in each case.

Wood:before gluing the motif, the tree must be primed with a primer on wood and preferably painted with acrylic paints (1 layer is possible if you later have a whole motive or several layers if the motifs will be selectively located on the surface).

Plastic:before gluing it to the plastic, it must be degreased with an alcohol solution, for example, and then covered with dissolved PVA glue or a special primer for plastic, this will help the motif to better adhere to the plastic.

Glass:before gluing the motif, degrease with alcohol or vinegar.

In the process of decoupage on glass, you may encounter such a problem as the loss of brightness and contrast of the napkin pattern. This is because the glue makes the base of the napkin slightly transparent. So, if the chosen motif contained pastel colors and gentle color transitions, the picture after gluing will change, the colors seem to fade before our eyes. There is a way out of this situation and it is quite simple. However, it only works if you glued the napkin face down. So, we take the surface to be decorated with a decoupage napkin glued on and paint over the entire paper surface with acrylic paint (preferably white). We turn over - and oops! the colors are back again.

Read also: How to peel off a sticker without marks from glasses

Porcelain:the procedure is the same as with glass.

Metal:before gluing to this surface, the metal should be treated first with a rust neutralizer, then go over the metal with a primer, and then paint it with acrylic paints.

Cardboard:before gluing the motif, the cracks in the cardboard can be patched and the cardboard itself can be sanded and painted with acrylic paints in 2-3 layers.

Difficulties in working with a cardboard surface arise due to its deformation when working with paints diluted with water. To prevent this from happening, the surface must first be primed.
This can be done with plaster, diluted with water to a pasty (but not liquid!) State. In this case, it is more convenient to apply it with a dense dry sponge or brush. After complete drying (you can speed up the process with a hairdryer), the surface is treated with fine emery paper, achieving the smoothness of the surface covered with gypsum, and after that they begin to decorate.
You can also process special cardboard. primer on wood and cardboard, apply with a spatula / palette knife or a flat brush 2-3 layers with intermediate sanding.
And another way to protect the cardboard from deformation is to prime it with varnish.
If you are decorating a glossy box, then sand it before priming. If there are holes in the cardboard, they can be "removed" with a mass of papier-mâché and then primed.
If you have a cardboard box with a hinged lid, then the fold must be glued with rubber glue so that the paint in this place does not crack or fly off.

Operating procedure.
If we work with a wooden surface, then first we need to sand it and apply a primer, as which you can use acrylic paint of a suitable color.

Cut out the pattern you like from the napkin. Next, we separate the two lower layers of paper - we only need the colorful one - and apply it to the surface.

Apply a thin layer of varnish with a brush, smoothing the napkin and making sure that no bubbles remain under it. After drying (see label for drying time) apply another layer of varnish.

If we apply a pattern to textiles, then it is necessary to cover the napkin with several layers of textile glue. Once dry, the patterned fabric can be gently ironed with a warm iron through a cloth.

The ceramic product must be baked in the oven three days after drawing. To do this, put the object in a cold oven, heat it up to 140-150 degrees, hold it for half an hour and turn it off. It is necessary to leave the product in the oven until it has cooled completely.

Smooth surfaces must be degreased with alcohol before applying the motifs.

The lighter the soil, the brighter the drawing looks on it and vice versa - using a dark base color makes the drawing seem to dissolve. These properties can be used to achieve various decorative effects. Acrylic paints are best suited as a primer.

How and how to glue?

Here I will try to talk about what means can be used for gluing in decoupage. And I will share the methods that I know.

I glue on PVA glue. I have PVA furniture, imported, Italian.

Pva there are two types:

Furniture (carpentry). You can buy in the construction market. I strongly recommend buying only imported options, because something yellow is added to our domestic one. Our glue must be defended, this yellow oily liquid must be drained and only then used. If it is not defended, then over time, yellow spots will appear on the product in those places. where the glue was applied.
Clerical... Sold in any office supply store in small quantities.

before you start gluing, PVA must be diluted with water !!

I dilute about 1: 4, that is, one part of glue, and four parts of water. Although, also not always, if the picture is denser, then I dilute it less, to a consistency of about kefir, and if for a napkin, then I dilute it like baked milk ...

I have tried glue on varnish, regular acrylic water-based varnish. This method is indispensable when the picture is very dense or very glossy. For example a photograph.

You can also glue stick, for egg white... I haven't tried it, I can't tell you anything. If you are interested in non-standard methods, you will find answers to these questions on the needlework forums.

Now, How to glue?

For gluing dense pictures, no subtleties exist. Cut out the motif, put it in water for a short time, take it out and blot it with a towel. You smear the picture with glue, apply it to the surface, roll it with a roller (or just a roll of scotch tape) or press it with your hands, a cloth, anything you like, if only no air bubbles left under the picture... Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

And here gluing napkin without folds, this is a whole science :))) And I hope you will contribute to this business :)) I know several ways, and I use them, depending on the situation.

The puddle method.

This method is suitable for both small and large motives. I am a supporter of the idea that it is better to swell the glue than not to swell :)) In general, I use this method almost always. It consists in the fact that:

Take a napkin, cut out the motif, put it in the place where you want to glue it .. Take a container with diluted PVA, dip your fingers there, put glue on them and flop it onto the motif. Smooth the cut out picture with gentle movements. Where it is not smoothed, some folds have formed, add more glue and disperse it all .. when smoothing, excess glue will be driven off the edges, remove it with a damp cloth.

After that, I take a soft damp cloth, and with blotting movements I go through the entire glued area, removing, if there is any, excess glue and removing the remaining folds (where can I do without them :))

If the motive is not very small or it is a whole napkin, then diluted glue is applied to the middle (it is poured straight from the can), and from the middle in a circular motion, the napkin is straightened. I hope that the explanation is generally clear, in the near future I undertake to film a master class ... by the basics.

Bonding with polyethylene file

An indispensable method for gluing whole napkins and large fragments. It is also ideal for gluing small but very moody napkin motifs.

And in general, to be honest, it is ideal for everything, very easy to use. Read the instructions for this method

Iron bonding

As I already said, there are napkins that are simply unrealistic to stick whole on diluted PVA. I used such a napkin on backgammon and the Savannah box. As soon as glue got on it, it began to creep in all directions and divide into many small fragments.

In this case, coat the surface with diluted PVA and leave to dry. Then on the dried PVA, a napkin is applied, paper is on top of the napkin and ironed with an iron. Then the top is neatly covered with a thin layer of varnish, I try to smear the first layer with an almost semi-dry brush so that the varnish dries immediately without lifting the napkin. If you apply a lot of varnish at once, then the napkin may rise and wrinkle in some places ...

We will glue half of the napkin. Remove the bottom layers. Spray varnish on a napkin evenly at a distance of 20 cm.

Put the napkin on the ironing board, cover it with paper and iron it well.

Now it sticks easily and without wrinkles. The already glued part is shown here. We glue the napkin with PVA glue diluted with water 1: 1. Apply the glue with a brush over the napkin, gently smoothing to the sides. You can slowly pull on the napkin, thereby getting rid of folds. After the varnish, the napkin becomes a little elastic.

What can be glued? All!

First of all, let's decide "what can be glued?" I can answer: "Everything !!". Everything that you like in drawing, coloring. texture, etc., including fabric and polyethylene (however, I haven't tried the latter myself, but I heard :)))

1. The most common is napkin.

These are no special, not decoupage (as they say in some online stores) napkins. These are the usual three or, more rarely, two-layer napkins, which we buy in packs, in order to wipe our hands. What a horror.)))

In order to glue the napkin, all the lower soybeans are separated from it (no matter how many there are). usually two layers. Those. leave for the sticker, only the top layer, the one with the picture.

One layer of a napkin is a rather thin paper substance, which, when soaked, will try with all its might, to crawl in your hands, and be sure to gather in folds. This phenomenon is quite easy to overcome, you need to try a little and everything will work out.))

There are napkins of different companies, and in general, already looking at the packaging, an experienced decoupage manager can tell how this or that napkin will behave approximately. There are firms that have napkins, only you drip glue on them, they immediately begin to creep, although they have not done anything with it yet, and have not touched it. And there are napkins, firms, which you pour on it and carry it over the surface, and here and there, and at least henna, not a single hole.

WORK WITH NAPKINS

Before work, the napkin must be ironed with steam. It is better to do this not on an ironing board - it is soft, but on something harder, for example, on MDF.

1) became less transparent, and, therefore, it could be pasted on a darker background,

2) did not spread so much during the gluing process,

and also so that you can cut out even the finest fragments - almost a thread thick - and to make the perforation invisible, you need to sprinkle it with either colorless varnish or a white spray. You only need to cover the napkin with the thinnest layer, otherwise it will simply be soaked and you can throw it away.

It is necessary to splash so that only white dust reaches the napkin, in no case droplets. And the dust should, as it were, "dry up during the flight." Look from the side at the jet and you will understand at what distance to spray. Moreover, a small press on the button provokes drops.

The main thing here is a greater distance to the napkin and not to overdo it so that only a slight haze appears on the napkin. Dries instantly.

If we want to get a clear drawing, we cut it out of the napkin with scissors exactly along the edge. And if we want to have such a slightly "sloppy" background around (sometimes it looks interesting) or if the drawing on a napkin is on a white background, then the drawing can be torn out, slightly moistening. Then the napkin “dissolves” and the torn edges are not visible.

Much depends on the background of the napkin. You can choose the exact paint for the background so that it does not differ from the background of the motif. Then the motif can be cut or torn out with a margin, pasted on a white surface, and then painted over the background with a precisely selected color. If you picked it up well, then the transition will not be noticeable.

When the background of the napkin is very light, then you can first paint everything, and then stick the motif with the "outline". But only if the background color matches our paint.

The paint layer of the napkin, which is used for decoupage, is very thin; after applying varnish, it generally becomes transparent. It is not recommended to put a napkin on a napkin. It turns out sloppy, the bottom layer is translucent. If you need to combine several motives with one or several napkins in your work, you will have to cut off all the parts that go over each other.

The napkins are varnished with any, no special is needed. They are used on a water basis, as they dry faster and do not turn yellow so much. It is better to cover with varnish the next day, without passing the brush twice over the same place, which causes peeling and stretching of the napkin.

Not very common, but very much my favorite. In order to glue the postcard, you must first soak it and remove the entire thickness so that only a thin drawing remains. This is done either with a fine sandpaper or rolled with your fingers. If you decide to try working with a postcard, I advise you to watch a master class on decorating a box with a postcard, it explains everything in detail.

5. Magazine clippings

The work is exactly the same as with decoupage cards and with printouts, soak it, blot it with a towel, if necessary, roll up (sand off) the bottom layer and glue it. You can get acquainted with work with magazine clippings in this master class.

6. Rice paper.

There are two types of this paper: with a picture and without.

Rice paper is very easy to work with. Due to its uneven texture, one should not be afraid of any folds, etc. Just put it on, cover with glue and blot with a cloth, removing excess glue and you're done.

While undoubtedly easy to use, rice paper also provides a very interesting background. It can be made of one color, you can make several, or you can even try many different multi-colored pieces :))))

How to make "fake paper"

If the work is done on a plate (behind), proceed as follows:

- we smear the back of the PVA plate

- we throw flower petals, threads, etc. on it. (optional), you can not sketch anything

- and cover the whole thing (not yet dry) with 1 white layer of napkin

- now we roll everything with a pressure roller, folds in this case are welcome.

- then cover the napkin with a layer of PVA mixed with paint of the desired shade

- roll with a roller (just in case)

Well, for ordinary surfaces, the actions are reversed. After all, 1 layer of the napkin is also so thin that it shines through like rice paper, and you can give any color, or even several colors at once, and I generally keep quiet about the filling.

If rice paper is not available, it can be replaced with a third layer of napkin. The white layer can be crumpled, while the creases form, as it were, "fibers", "veins". Of course, it will turn out not quite right, but a bit similar.

Floral felt, sold at a flower shop.

This is wrapping paper, it is made of some kind of grass (maybe even an imitation of grass, you cannot understand it to the touch), the grasses are glued together, so the paper is quite tough. The material is extremely non-plastic; it forms rough and poorly glued folds. The overlap also does not stick very well. You can glue it, but only on a flat surface and a fairly large amount of glue. The glue seems to flow through this mesh all the time.

In everyday life, many faced such a problem as broken plastic products. These items rarely lend themselves to any kind of DIY repair, it is safer to glue them. You can decide how to glue the plastic tightly by considering the best adhesives for various types and gluing technology.

Adhesive for plastic (click to enlarge)

Determine the type of plastic

Before gluing the plastic, it is important first of all to determine the type of material of the broken item. This is important to do in order to better glue the plastic and not damage the product - many adhesives are solvents for plastic parts.

Most often, a manufacturer marks its products with a recycling symbol, which can be used to determine the type of plastic. It is a triangle with drawn arrows on the edges, inside there are numbers from 1 to 7.

Another designation of the brand is the alphabetic characters inside or next to the triangle. Knowing these designations, you can determine the type of plastic, after which the adhesive for plastic is suitable for it.

Marking

1 or PET is polyethylene terephthalate. The main area of \u200b\u200bapplication is food packaging. It is used in the manufacture of artificial fibers, plastic packaging for liquid food products, films.

2 or HDPE - high density polyethylene with low pressure technology. It is used in the production of shrink films and bags for packaging.

3 or PVC - polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is used in the manufacture of linoleum and plastic windows.

Watch the video to find out more:

4 or LDPE - Low Density High Pressure Polyethylene. Food-grade plastic, they make bags, wrappers and bottles, greenhouse films, packaging containers, toys for children, pipes.

5 or PP - polypropylene, due to its inertness and thermal stability (it can be kept under hot steam and boiled), is widely used in the production of food packaging. The material is widely used in medicine (disposable syringes, catheters), in the production of household appliances, heat-resistant dishes and plastic pipes for hot water supply.

6 or PS - polystyrene. This type is used to make disposable dishes (cups for food products), inner plastic sheathing of refrigerating devices. When foaming polystyrene foam, a porous insulating material (foam) is obtained, which is widely used in construction and production.

7 or O (Other) - materials that are not recyclable (combine a combination of foil, paper and polymer materials) or not included in the previous groups.

One of the ways to determine the grade of plastic in the absence of a sign is to check by combustion. Each material burns in its own way and with a different smell, from which you can determine its appearance.

Adhesive labeling

In addition to plastic, the plastic adhesive is also marked with symbols, although this designation rarely coincides with the recycling markings. To know how to glue plastics, the following letters are affixed to the adhesives to indicate the materials to be glued:

Designation for plastics (click to enlarge)

polycarbonate - PC;
copolymer of acrylonitrile - ABS;
polypropylene - PP;
organic glass - PMMA;
polyethylene - PE;
polyvinyl chloride - PVC;
polystyrene - PS;
polyamide - RA 66;
polyurethane - PUR.

Often it makes no sense to look for markings on the glue packaging, it is enough to study the instructions in Russian, which clearly explains what types of materials the glue is intended for and how to glue the plastic.

Types of adhesives

Plastic products have many types and are widespread in everyday life, therefore, plastic gluing can be carried out with a wide range of adhesives and different methods.

One of the gluing methods is to soften the surfaces of the parts to be glued with a suitable solvent (dichloroethane for plexiglass or polystyrene), after joining the seam is reliably soldered. In a similar way, you can do it yourself and glue by dissolving small plastic shavings.

Kinds of good adhesives for plastic (click to enlarge)

Liquid

Popular household adhesives are easy to use, there are two types: solvent-based or water-based. The principle of operation of the first is as follows: water or solvent evaporates from the glue applied to the top of the plastic parts, the glue seam dries up with further hardening, due to this, the parts hold tight.

Such adhesives can glue plastic with porous materials that allow air to pass through, otherwise the water and solvent will not evaporate and the glue will not solidify.

In everyday life and industry, a good liquid PVA glue is known, widely used in furniture production for reliable gluing of artificial films to wooden surfaces; in the construction field, linoleum is often glued to PVA. Other liquid adhesives are made on the basis of rubber resins, in this case the solvents are methyl acetate, alcohol, acetone.

Contact

The name was given due to the principle of gluing: before gluing the plastic to the plastic, the surfaces of both glued products are coated with glue and after 10-15 minutes they are firmly pressed against each other. There are two types: with a hardener and without a hardener, the best known brands BF-2 (4), "Moment", rubber glue.

In the video, you will learn how to use contact adhesives:

Adhesives include toxic materials, so at home, before gluing the plastic, it is necessary to provide ventilation.

Reaction adhesives

There are one-component and two-component types. The former, when applied to the bonded surface, harden very quickly from interaction with oxygen or water vapor. These types include the well-known "Secunda", "Superglue" and other analogs, capable of gluing to obtain a rigid and durable seam.

Two-component have separate hardener and hardener. They are bonded before being used for bonding and, after being applied to the bonding surfaces, under the influence of ambient conditions, gradually begin to harden and adhere the parts. They are based on various resins, the most famous types are polyurethane, epoxy, polyester.

Often in everyday life or in the manufacture of furniture, we have to glue various materials. In the joinery and furniture business, the skills of the master in this type of work play an important role.

The bonding quality depends primarily on the pre-treatment of the bonded surfaces. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, remnants of old glue or paint; the surface must be absolutely dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or file.

When gluing metal, porcelain, glass stone and some other parts, it is necessary to first degrease by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab dipped in a solution of ammonia gasoline, acetone, and baking soda solution.

When gluing various materials, several rules must be followed: apply the glue to the surface only with a thin layer, but so that there are no missing spots. The glue should be free of any impurities (sawdust, dust, and so on) and a uniform consistency, that is, it should not contain lumps. A thick layer of thick glue does not in the least contribute to a stronger adhesion. Some types of adhesives, according to the instructions, should be warmed up before use. We would advise you not only to heat up the glue itself, but also to heat up the materials to be glued. Then the bond strength will increase.

As a rule, the parts to be glued are dried in a heat of at least 18 ° C. The parts should be pressed tightly against each other using a press, oppression or vice.

When gluing wood, it is recommended to preheat the surfaces to be glued. It is desirable that the moisture content of the parts to be glued is the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. We would recommend you to glue dry wood with animals and synthetic adhesives. Animal glues include bone and casein glues. Immediately, we note that preparing bone glue for work takes a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than offset by its advantages. It is beneficial to use when a large amount of work is being done. The joints glued with this glue are very strong, which favorably distinguishes it from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. The glued parts can withstand a load of up to 60 kg per 1 sq. cm, which is several times higher than that of other adhesives. And finally, the tiles of dry wood glue can be stored indefinitely, they practically do not deteriorate.

The wood glue should be prepared in a special glue machine. The glue machine consists of two tin containers, one of which (wider) is filled with water, and in the second (smaller) glue is poured and placed in the first. The glue machine can be successfully replaced with ordinary cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device (water bath) does not allow the glue to burn and can keep it warm for a long time. To weld bone glue, first break the dry glue into small pieces and fill with water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then cook. To prepare liquid glue for 4 parts by weight of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. The glue should be warmed up, stirring, so that the whole mass turns out without clots and grains. Do not bring the adhesive to a boil, as this may reduce its tack and durability. The readiness of the glue is determined by dipping a stick into it.

The glue is ready if it flows from the stick slowly, in a thick, even stream. If the glue is too thick during cooking, you can dilute it with hot water. When working, use hot glue, if it has cooled down a little, it can be heated in a water bath. Do not brew a large amount of glue right away. Brew as much as you need to carry out the work; reheating the already cured glue deteriorates its properties. When preparing bone glue, you can also make it fireproof. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and boil it in a glue boiler until a thick composition is obtained, and then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil it again. An increase in the stickiness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the glue at the rate of 25: 2.

When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of room temperature water and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. The glue powder should be poured into water gradually, stirring constantly until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. The finished mixture will initially be thick and set aside for a while to liquefy. There is no need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should drain from the stick in a continuous stream, leaving a thin shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue is not heated, because at temperatures above 40 ° C casein curls up and loses its adhesive properties. You can prepare glue powder at home, provided the necessary components. The glue contains 7 parts by weight of dry casein in powder and 1 part by weight of borax (sodium boric acid).

To make glue from this powder, you need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour casein with cold water in a 1: 1 ratio and stand for 3 hours. Dissolve borax in hot water and fill the swollen casein with the resulting solution. Stir continuously until you get a fairly thick, homogeneous mass. Parts glued with casein glue are kept under the press for 4 hours, but the glue finally dries only after 12 hours. The big advantage of casein glue is that it can glue wood with high moisture content. Wood can also be glued with other adhesives, such as synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses, carefully read the proposed instructions.

Sometimes it is required to stick plastic, leather, leatherette, decorative plywood, fabric or synthetic film on a wooden surface. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood with casein or synthetic wood glue. Plywood and tile glue can also be glued, but this will create a noticeable dark seam. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood, as it may shrink. It is better to cover the surface of the wood with a layer of glue, and then put a plywood sheet on it and press firmly on top with oppression. The pressure should be about 8 kg and should lie under pressure for about 7-8 hours.

To glue the plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. It can be such adhesives as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, "Elastosila-2". Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of the wood or plastic.

Clean the wood of dust, and sand the back of the plastic with sandpaper until the plastic becomes a little rough. Work the corners and edges especially carefully. Then wipe the treated surface of the plastic with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply a thin layer of glue to both glued surfaces and connect them. Firmly pressing the plastic to the wood, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze all the air out from under the plastic, and then put something heavy on the plastic so that the oppression is evenly distributed over the entire surface to be glued to be at least 4-5 kg \u200b\u200bper 1 sq. ... see Oppression leave for half an hour. Such glues are finally hardened within 24 hours.

For gluing fabric, leather, leatherette to a wooden base, use adhesives: "Dubok", "Unicum", BF-6, "Polyvinyl acetate".

Also at home, if the necessary components are available, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive composition. To do this, you will need 400 g of wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix dry components, fill with water and put on low heat, or even better, use a glue boiler. During the preparation of the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically so that no lumps form. As soon as the glue starts to thicken, it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive is homogeneous. This glue is used only hot. For leathers and leatherette (without fabric base), degrease synthetic films with gasoline with acetone. Fabrics do not need pretreatment before gluing. Cover both surfaces with glue with yourself and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until it dries.

It is better not to glue fabrics and synthetic films with BF-6 and "Polyvinyl acetate" adhesives, since BF-6 glue can shine through the front surface and stain fabrics in a yellowish color. The "Polyvinyl acetate" glue is destroyed by the action of water.

It is best to glue metal parts to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Patex, Elastosila-2. If you need to glue small metal objects (hooks, shelves) to a wooden surface, we would not recommend using the first three brands of adhesives mentioned. These adhesives form the so-called "creeping seams", that is, under the action of loads, the metal object will slide off the wooden surface. Before gluing, file the metal surface to make it rough, and then degrease with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of adhesive on both surfaces to be glued, clamp the parts in a vice and leave it there for a few minutes. Finally, the glue will dry in 10-12 hours.

For gluing smooth surfaces, use the same glue "Elastosila-2".

Apply a thin layer of glue to surfaces previously degreased with acetone and leave for one hour. After that, wipe the surfaces with a swab dipped in acetone and connect them. Clamp the glued parts in a vice for 4-5 hours. Finally, the glue will harden after 10-12 hours.

Glass is most often glued with such adhesives as "Polyvinyl acetate", "Mars", "Supercement", BF-2, "Patex", "Unicum". These adhesives form practically colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and let it dry a little for 10 minutes. Apply a second coat and after 2-3 minutes join the parts to be bonded. The parts should be tightly pressed against each other for 20-30 minutes. The glue hardens completely only after a day.

To glue glass and metal together, take "Glue-sealant", "Elastosila-2", "Unicum". Degrease both surfaces, grease with glue and clamp the parts in a clamp for 30 minutes. The glue will finally harden and become waterproof after three days.

You can glue glass to wood, as well as stick fabric or cardboard on it with PVA, PVA-A, "Polyvinyl acetate" adhesives. Degrease the glass with acetone, grease the surfaces with glue and put the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.

At home, BF-2 or "Epoxy" glue is used for gluing metals. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust, sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces with clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with petrol or acetone. Apply glue to the surface in a thin layer and leave it there for an hour. Then place the workpieces greased with glue in an oven heated to 50-60 ° C and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it starts to dry out (stops sticking to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vice and dry them in the oven at 130-150 ° C for 1-2 hours. When cold drying
fully hardens only after 2-3 days.

Epoxy glue is irreplaceable in some cases. It consists of two components resin and hardener.

When using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is poisonous; if the hardener gets on your hands, remove it with a swab dipped in acetone, and then rinse your hands with running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to heat the resin in a bowl with hot water, but not higher than 30 ° C. Mix warm resin with hardener in the ratio indicated in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as well as others.

Also read in this section:

Warming
Everything about how to insulate doors, walls, windows, floors, ceilings or ceilings. Here's how to make the attic warm, what materials to use. Everything about the methods and technologies for warming houses, summer cottages, basements. You will be able to calculate the material consumption.

Insulation materials
How to choose the right materials for thermal insulation work, in what proportions to prepare a cement mortar for the walls, how to insulate a country house. Recommendations will help you to choose materials with fire-resistant and low-thermal conductivity properties.

Helpful repair tips
Housewives advice on apartment cleaning, carpet cleaning, furniture care. What cleaning products to use. And also how to quickly remove a blockage in the kitchen or restore broken enamel in the bathroom. How to repair a rubber boot.

When modeling and making various crafts, it is often necessary to quickly and reliably glue cardboard parts or glue cardboard to other materials - fabric, wood, foam, cork, metal, etc.

Unlike thin paper, cardboard is a tougher and denser material, so ordinary clerical (silicate) glue cannot do this task, especially when it comes to gluing large parts.

PVA is a classic adhesive based on an aqueous dispersion of polyvinyl acetate. This composition is successfully used for gluing various porous materials - paper, cardboard, wood, fiberboard, MDF, fabric, etc. Today PVA remains the most popular glue in cardboard modeling.

Suitable for bonding almost all natural materials.

On sale you can find several varieties of this glue: stationery, household, universal and construction.

Moment Joiner Express - modern adhesive from Henkel. Designed specifically for working with wood, plywood, veneer, fiberboard, MDF, cardboard and other natural materials.

Moment Joiner Express after drying becomes colorless, which is important when modeling - the glue will not be noticeable in the seams between the parts to be glued.

UHU Holzleim Express Modeling Adhesive is a fast-setting wood glue with surprisingly high adhesive power.

Specially developed by UHU specialists for modeling, doing housework, repairing wooden furniture, etc. It is designed for gluing any wood and wood-like materials in any combination.

Ideal for gluing cardboard and paper, also for gluing cardboard to cardboard.

It is irreplaceable when fast setting of the glued surfaces is required. After drying it becomes transparent, resistant to moisture.

Moment Universal Gel - modern waterproof and frost-resistant express glue in the form of a gel, thanks to which it does not spread or drip.

Retains elasticity after drying, does not warp or deform the parts to be glued.

Moment Universal Gel is widely used in modeling and creative work when it is necessary to quickly and reliably glue wood, ceramics, PVC, rubber, cork, fabrics and other materials.

Ideal for gluing paper, cardboard and corrugated board, incl. inclined surfaces and surfaces of a large area.

"505" Universal second glue - liquid transparent adhesive, similar in consistency to water. Designed for bonding metal, rubber, leather, ceramics, paper, cardboard, wood, plastic, etc.

Indispensable when you need instant fixation of small parts made of paper and cardboard during modeling.

Paper (cardboard) modeling is one of the most accessible types of technical creativity, however, when working with cardboard and glue, certain nuances should be taken into account.

In particular, it is necessary to work extremely carefully with water-based adhesives, since when the water dries, the material "pulls" and the product begins to deform.

There is no need to try to assemble the model quickly, this should be done in stages, only after the frame has completely dried.

Basically, to solve the problem of broken plastic things, they start gluing them. Although success is not always achieved, as it is a rather complicated process due to the nature of certain types of adhesives and plastics. This article will talk about glue for plastic, how to choose and use it, and also find out the answers to various popular questions, for example: how to glue plastic to plastic.

Features and purpose of glue for plastic

Plastics are known to belong to a group of materials that do not adhere well. For example, ceramics are much easier when compared to ordinary plastic. This can be explained by the surface structure, chemical composition and properties of plastics, namely the absence or small pore sizes, low chemical activity of polymers, low adhesion and other properties of plastics. In this regard, in construction, industry and other areas, welding of plastics is more reliable than gluing.

Although it is not available at home, other methods of mechanical connection of plastic parts are not always possible to apply. In this regard, special types of adhesives are mainly used to repair plastic structures. Thanks to special types of glue, it is sometimes possible to restore a broken plastic part, worn out shoes, a toy or other things necessary in everyday life.

Plastic glue is a useful and convenient thing, but the gluing process can be a problem in some situations. The fact is that different types of plastic differ from each other in different properties, and each glue is characterized by certain application features. We will begin our acquaintance with the nuances of gluing plastic by considering the types of glue that exist today, their features, advantages and disadvantages.

How to glue plastic with plastic tightly

Today on the market you can find many brands of glue, different in composition, method of use, and also the principle of action.

Adhesives for plastics can be divided into 4 categories:

hot glue;
reaction adhesive;
contact adhesive;
liquid glue.

Each type of glue has its own areas of application and characteristics. Next, each of the types will be considered separately in more detail.

Liquid glue

This type of glue is the easiest to use and composition, therefore it is considered very popular among users.

There are the following types of liquid adhesives:

solvent adhesives;
water-based adhesives.

If we consider water-based adhesives, then they differ significantly from their counterparts, although their principle of operation is the same. During the application of liquid glue to the surface, the solvent or water begins to evaporate gradually, then the glue hardens and the elements are glued directly.

They are well suited for bonding, for example, porous materials through which water or solvent evaporates. It should be borne in mind that it is very difficult to glue sealed materials with them, or it is generally impossible, because even after a long time such glue remains liquid.

This is known to everyone as being referred to as liquid, it is traditionally used for gluing fabrics, paper, wood, as well as for gluing plastic films on furniture and similar materials. Liquid adhesives also include resin and rubber based adhesives that use methyl acetate, acetone, alcohol, etc. as a solvent.

Adhesives based on dichloroethane have been used for a very long time, but due to their toxicity, they are used only by professionals at enterprises, which is explained by their harmfulness. Next, we will consider in more detail how to glue plastic to plastic, namely what types of glue can be used for this.

Contact adhesives

This type of glue is mainly used for gluing different types of plastic, because it is very easy to use and gives good results.

There are several types of contact adhesives:

with a hardener;
without hardener.

Regardless of the type, the use of contact glue can be described as follows: at the very beginning of the gluing process, the glue is applied to one or both surfaces to be glued, then it must dry for 10-15 minutes. After that, the surfaces to be glued must be pressed tightly together. Because of this, such adhesives are called contact adhesives, since after drying and contact, they connect the materials that are glued.

Contact adhesives include the following: "Moment", BF-4, BF-2, rubber glue and other brands. This type of adhesives often contains toxic materials, in this regard, it is necessary to work with them strictly according to the instructions, namely in a ventilated room, while avoiding skin contact with the glue and inhaling vapors.

Reaction adhesives

Such adhesives are classified into 2 types:

two-component;
one-component.

One-component adhesives contain a special hardener that remains liquid in a closed container. When applied to the bonded surface, it instantly hardens, while connecting the necessary parts. These include the well-known cyanoacrylate "Second" adhesives "" and its analogues. Their hardening is carried out under the influence of water vapor and oxygen contained in the air. In this regard, during their use, experts advise to moisten the surfaces, while most other adhesives, on the contrary, adhere well to dry surfaces.

Two-component adhesives, respectively, consist of 2 components: a hardener and a binder. Before gluing, they are in different containers. Before use, such adhesives must be mixed, then they are applied to the surfaces to be glued, and the mixture itself begins to harden under the influence of certain environmental factors. After mixing, the two-component adhesive can be stored for no more than half an hour.

Basically, they are based on various resins, the most famous adhesives of this type include polyurethane, epoxy, polyester and others. There are also two-component PVC-based adhesives, although they are usually only used in industry.

This group of adhesives is considered special, since they acquire adhesive properties only when heated to a certain temperature (depending on the glue, it will be 110-220 ° C).

Hot melt glue can only be used with a special glue gun, thanks to which the glue will heat up. In most cases, they are used for creativity, with their help, you can glue, for example, large parts, but it is not always possible to glue plastic broken things.

Let's note the fact that now manufacturers from different countries have created a large number of adhesives for gluing plastic, while many of them are suitable exclusively for industrial use.

This is due to the following factors:

toxicity of some brands of glue;
the complexity of their use, because some brands of glue can work together with catalysts and only if the conditions prescribed by specialists are observed;
their high cost, etc.

For household use on the market, you can find not so many brands of glue, including such popular brands as BF-4, BF-2, Moment, rubber glue, second adhesives, one-component liquid adhesives and a number of 2-component resin-based adhesives ... Basically, you have to choose from a limited supply, on the basis of this, the correct choice of glue is the key to a good repair of a broken thing.

How to choose a glue for plastic?

Basically, for gluing plastics, universal adhesives are used, which include the popular "Moment", various brands of second adhesives, epoxy, etc. But there are also various special adhesives designed for gluing one or several types of plastic.

Such adhesives are designated by an abbreviation, which indicates for gluing which type of plastic they are intended for.

Let's consider what are the most popular abbreviations:

PA66 - polyamide;
ABS - plastic, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene;
PP - polypropylene;
PE - polyethylene;
PS - polystyrene;
PC - polycarbonate;
PUR - polyurethane;
PMMA - polymethyl methacrylate;
PVC - PVC, polyvinyl chloride.

There are many more types of plastics than indicated above, so other abbreviations can be found. On packaging, the plastic designation can be found in corners or under the recycling (reusable) plastic sign.

For gluing plastics that are found in everyday life or in cars, these second adhesives, epoxy adhesives, contact adhesives, for example, "Moment" and others, are also suitable. At the same time, you need to choose glue, not only based on the material, but also on the basis of the features of the use of the object to be glued:

Reactive and liquid adhesives work best in fixed joints, the task of which is to provide high bond strength. Many reactive adhesives adhere very well to various parts that are exposed to constant heating.

From a different perspective, though, a large number of adhesives cannot be used with certain types of plastics. This is especially true for solvent-based adhesives as they can damage the plastic surface. Therefore, these types of adhesives must be used with great care.

Separately, I would like to highlight the gluing of such well-known plastics around people as polyethylene. Most adhesives cannot bond these types of plastics. For example, try to glue a regular plastic bag using Superglue and Moment, and you will see that nothing comes of it. A glued polyethylene part will usually fall apart soon, so you don't even have to think about repairing such a part with glue, so there is no point in trying either.

Instructions for the use of adhesives for plastic

Special instructions on how to use the glue should be on its packaging. Let's look at a procedure that would be typical for working with a variety of adhesives.

Liquid adhesives

In most cases, this type of glue should be applied to one of the surfaces that is glued. After that, the two surfaces need to be connected and squeezed until the glue dries completely. In some cases, experts first advise applying glue to two surfaces, and then letting it dry. Next, you will need to reapply the glue to one of the surfaces, connect and squeeze both parts until the glue is completely dry.

If, for example, we consider liquid adhesives, then their advantage is that they do not dry quickly. In this regard, the position of the parts that are glued together will be able to slightly correct relative to each other after they are connected.

Reactive one-component adhesives

Basically, adhesives of this type are applied in a small layer on surfaces, which must be immediately pressed against each other. The glue should harden for a few seconds, which is why they are called seconds, based on what was written above, you cannot hesitate when gluing.

When bonding with cyanoacrylate glue, professionals advise to breathe on the surfaces that are bonding for better adhesion. Thanks to water vapor, the reaction will go much better. For some types of one-component adhesives, it is advised to wet the surfaces slightly so that they become slightly damp.

To work with this type of glue, you first need to mix its components (basically this should be done in a one-to-one ratio, although there are other options). After that, gluing is performed in the usual way - glue is applied to both surfaces, after which it is compressed until it is completely dry.

Basically, the glue in a mixed state can "live" no more than half an hour, which is why it must be diluted in such an amount that will be used in full within the time specified in the instructions for use.

These types of adhesives are formed into rods of different diameters, designed for use with a special glue gun. With this type of glue, the work is quite simple - first you need to insert the bar into the gun, after which you need to turn on the gun and then wait for the glue to heat up. To glue the surfaces, you first need to squeeze a drop of glue onto the part, and it, in turn, adheres to the base to be glued.

As for the hot melt glue outside the gun, it dries very quickly (in almost a matter of seconds), so with its help the parts need to be glued very quickly without any mistakes. Selection