Lining for interior work. How to fasten the lining: methods and types of fastening

Different materials can be used for surface finishing. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.

One of the most common options for facing surfaces is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to fix the lining to the wall.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Lining fastening methods

Installation of the lining on the walls is best done using a lathing - a frame made of wood. To do this, all the bars of the lathing, both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane, must be aligned exactly.

Even minor mistakes can, over time, lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.

After the installation of the lathing is completed, the lining is attached. Below you can see the scheme of the lathing for surface finishing.

Please note that if the lining is used for facing surfaces in the bath, the material must be pre-treated with antiseptics.

The installation of the lining will not depend on the fastening method. For walls and ceilings, the work will be the same. There are two ways to place boards:

1. Vertical. With this method of placement, work begins from one of the nodes. The first board is fastened with the groove outward. The next bar is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fixing the board with the help of a level, the evenness of its placement is checked.
2. Horizontal. With this placement, the spike of the board is directed upward, allowing water to slide down the finish. Such an installation begins from the ceiling.

Do not fasten the lining close to the ceiling and floor, leave gaps

After all the boards are installed, a small section of the board is inserted into the groove of the finish panel, which is nailed down with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent the appearance of gaps or holes.

When installing the lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden temperature changes and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, the boards may swell after a certain period of time. After finishing the finish, the slots are covered with a baseboard.

Regardless of the fastening method chosen, the first and last planks are fastened with nails with a small head.

The rest of the panels can be attached in the following ways:

• with screws, self-tapping screws or nails,
• clamps. This is the name of the clamps, which have a design with a special holder holding the board spike,
• construction stapler.

You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle timber of the sheathing and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of the placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the rest of the battens.

Fastening with nails

This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not capable of providing a long service life of the structure. When driven in, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a doboiner or pre-make holes in the desired section of the panel.

For one board of standard sizes, you will need about 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving. But in some situations, this method of fastening is the only possible solution.

For such work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered into place. The hats are hammered inside with a doboiner, this will allow you to install the next bar without problems.

Fasteners with self-tapping screws

This method is used for buildings where the appearance of the walls does not really matter. You can often find the use of this method for decorating baths.

But high humidity and a sharp change in temperature can lead to drying out of the fasteners, which will further worsen the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.

For prevention, it is better to process the boards every three months.

Self-tapping screws are sufficiently high-quality fasteners, therefore, if a high-life finish is required, their use can be considered the best solution.

To implement such fasteners in the boards, you will first need to make holes. Their diameter should be equal to half the thickness of the fasteners.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board with a screwdriver. They should go as deep as possible. To hide the location of the fastener, you can use a wooden dowel or sand the surface.

Fastening with a stapler

The staples must be inserted at a 45 ° angle. If the insertion procedure has been carried out correctly, the subsequent installation procedure will proceed without complications.

Fasteners with clamps

Clamps allow for hidden fasteners in almost any finish.

At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.

Mounting the lining using such devices will allow you to achieve the following advantages:

1. With the correct choice of the size of the fasteners, it is possible to carry out the installation concealed and guarantee its strength.
2. Clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sharp temperature changes for a long time. This allows you to use this method of fastening in bath rooms.

For the installation of standard profile euro lining, clamps are purchased with a tongue height of about 4 mm, and for fixing a block house - 6 mm. For finishing 1 m2 of surface, you will need about 20 clamps.

With this method of fixing, the plate is put on the spike of the first panel and fixed to the crate with nails or self-tapping screws.

There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to install the lining on one nail, as it can be torn out.

It is better to screw in self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate the process.

Horizontal installation of lining

Therefore, mainly with horizontal placement, the boards begin to be fixed from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove downwards directly under the ceiling. The next element is attached with the first ridge to the groove of the previous one.

According to this scheme, all boards are installed. The final plank is cut to the width and inserted using a pry bar or nailer. A small hole near the floor is hidden with a plinth.

As you can see, fastening the lining can be done in different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preference and knowledge. The work is fairly easy, so professional help is most likely not required.

Wall cladding with clapboard on the crate
One of the most popular options for facing surfaces is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to fix the lining to the wall.

Modern lining is a beautiful finishing material that is very popular. The lining is successfully used as part of interior solutions for living rooms, for decorating building facades and even for cladding the walls of saunas and baths. Therefore, many are interested in how to fix the lining correctly, so that this process is easy, takes a minimum of time, and allows you to achieve several goals at once.

What goals can be achieved with clapboard wall cladding

It should be noted right away that the lining on the wall can perform not only a decorative function. If you mount the finish appropriately, it can solve a number of side problems at once:

1. When located on the outer part of the wall, you can bring the dew point beyond the surface level and get rid of problems such as dampness, freezing, and avoid mold and mildew.
2. If you fix the lining on the frame, this will make it possible to mount insulating materials inside and thus save heat better.
3. By mounting the lining directly on the wall, you can save space and provide vapor barrier at the same time, provided that modern protective films are used.

Thus, having properly finished the walls with wooden clapboard, they can not only be made beautiful, but also ensure the implementation of various additional tasks. There are several general recommendations on how to fix the lining.

Everyone can choose the method that is most convenient from the standpoint of qualifications, speed of work, as well as financial investments in finishing.

Unqualified mount

The easiest way to fix a wooden paneling on a wall is to nail it down. It is very simple and even a beginner can handle such work. The process is as simple as possible:

• the wooden lining is cut into strips of the appropriate length,
• placing the elements neatly, they are simply nailed right through the front side,
• the heads of the nails are flush with the surface of the lining.

So you can mount a wooden lining on almost any wall. Both on the frame and directly on the surface, which is very convenient in wooden houses. If you work with self-tapping screws, using the Novosel kits, you can arrange a concrete wall in this way.

The method, despite its simplicity and speed, has a lot of disadvantages:

1. Heads of nails or screw heads will be visible. Therefore, the neat appearance of the finish is disturbed.
2. In rooms with excessive humidity, metal caps can rust. This causes unsightly streaks as well as discoloration of the lining around the attachment point.

Therefore, the method of fastening with nails or screws through the surface is very rarely used.

Fastening with nails with disguise

The second simple method of fastening with nails or screws through the face can provide a neat appearance, but has a limited range of applications. The work looks like this:

• drilling is done in the lining,
• fastening nails are hammered into the hole or self-tapping screws are twisted,
• the tongue is hammered, which masks the anchorage point,
• the excess tongue is cut off and the surface is sanded.

Thus, the excellent appearance of the wood surface is maintained. However, the method has limitations:

1. When cutting the tongue and sanding the surface, damage is formed, so the appearance of the lining with paintwork will be spoiled.
2. The best results are obtained if you need to fix the lining either without finishing or treated with impregnations. It is easy to make the fasteners completely invisible.

Despite the simplicity, this method of fastening is used very rarely, because it takes a lot of time for preparatory and final work.

How to make the mount invisible

To properly fix the lining on the wall and completely hide the location of the fasteners, several methods are used:

1. With nails or screws through the groove.
2. Fastening can be done through a shelf on the lining profile.
3. Excellent performance is shown by stapling with staples.

When working through a slot, it is best to work with upholstery nails, as the layer of wood there is thin and easily cracks. In this case, it is quite problematic to fasten with self-tapping screws, since when you try to tighten the groove deeply, it is likely to split.

Working through the profile shelf is easier. It is best to use this method for Euroline lining or similar, which have a large shelf surface. Self-tapping screws and nails, as well as fastening with a stapler, are excellently used. When installing the lining, the next strip completely hides the fasteners of the previous one.

Financially costly way

For convenient work with wooden lining, you can use special cleats. This is the fastener into which the lining strip is inserted. As a result, we get several advantages:

• the strip has no risk of damage, since the clips only hold it,
• you can work quickly enough, since the clamps can be fixed as you like - with nails, screws, a stapler,
• you can act on any surface, both on the frame and on the wall directly.

However, the method is somewhat costly. Cleamers are more expensive than nails or self-tapping screws, in addition, inconveniences arise if few or too many of them are purchased.

It is very easy to work with the special fasteners. Cleamers provide speed and convenience, but require surface preparation. The wall or frame should have as flat a surface as possible, since in this case the cleats are positioned perfectly and do not cause any installation difficulties for the performer.

The described methods work great both on the wall and when fixing the lining to the ceiling. When working, neither the location of the stripes nor their length matters, so you can easily create various patterns. For example, by combining vertical, horizontal and inclined arrangement, or using a different color or width of the lining. A properly made finish will delight you with its appearance and excellent characteristics for many years.

How to attach the lining with clamps or self-tapping screws to the wall
How to fix the lining to the wall correctly? What are the features of using self-tapping screws, clamps, staplers?

How to mount the lining on the wall

How to fix the lining correctly: preparation of walls, methods of fastening to the frame, finishing the ceiling

For interior walls and ceilings, lining is often used. It looks beautiful and will last a long time. When working with it, almost no one has any difficulties. The lining is made from natural raw materials, which, accordingly, makes it expensive.

When selecting material, you need to choose from class "A" or "Elite". Wooden lining of such classes has no knots and defects. The best option would be building material from Siberian larch.

Lamella in section

If there is not much money, then they choose from classes "B" and "C". In this case, tinker with the styling. This is due to visual defects - when laying, you will need to decide how to cut off the extra parts of the lining. You can calculate the amount of Euro lining required for cladding a room in the online lining calculator.

Preparing the walls

A crate of timber is installed on the walls. Even if it will be a house made of timber or a log house, it is still necessary to install a crate. This will hide the smallest defects in the walls and laying the lining with your own hands will not be difficult. The ventilation gap is also taken into account. It allows you to avoid the appearance of fungus, mold and dampness between the lining and the wall. Wood rotting can also be avoided using a special coating - this is described in detail here. The beam is used with a thickness of 20-25 mm. The timber is fixed vertically at a distance of 40 cm, although if it is planned to place the lining vertically, then the crate is installed horizontally.

The timber is fastened with self-tapping screws. If the clapboard will sheathe a kitchen, bathroom or bath, then the timber is attached to galvanized hardware.

It is possible that the timber will be slightly different in size, then wedges are placed under it. All this is done for an absolutely perfect frame surface, which, by the way, can be checked with a level. Now you know how to make a lathing lining.

Mounting methods on the frame

Now they begin to install the slats. If the length of the lamellas of the lining is greater than the attachment point, then the excess is cut off. The saw must be well sharpened and with fine teeth.

The lining is fastened with the groove down so that the spike is at the top. This prevents moisture from entering the groove. Below, between the first row, the slats and the floor, a small ventilation gap is left. They begin to fix the lining from the corner of the room. Each next lamella is attached to the groove of the previous one. All this shows the evenness of the lining. Fastening the lining to the wall is carried out with nails or clamps.

Kleimers

Cleamers are special staples. They are also called clamps or hidden clamps. When purchasing such brackets, always check their compatibility with the lining lamellas. The lining is attached to the clamps in the following sequence:

Sequence of fastening with clamps

Clamps are inserted into the groove of the already laid lamella and attached to the timber with self-tapping screws.

Clamps are made of galvanized iron. The set consists of 100 or 200 pieces. The kit also includes self-tapping screws or galvanized nails. Nails are used to fasten the clamps to the timber, although it is better to buy a set with self-tapping screws.

One square meter of lining will need 20 clamps. When buying, special attention is paid to the elasticity of the clamp.

Kleimers on lamellas

This lamella fastening technology is long and laborious. But on the other hand, if all the preparatory work is done correctly, the result will be pleasing to the eye. After all, such a fastening does not limit the expansion and shrinkage of the tree, there is no need to be afraid of splitting the lamellas.

If you decide to fasten the car with nails, then you must know what nails to nail the lining with.

Galvanized nails

Fastening the lining to the wall is also carried out using galvanized nails with a small head. Drive nails in one row into each board. The fastening method is the most reliable, but it spoils the appearance of the lining, and can split the lamella.

Thin nails

When using thin nails, the lamellas are fixed from different sides through one. The fastening method is complicated, it is not as reliable as the method of fastening with galvanized nails. Requires skill, but it turns out less marriage.

Now you know how and how to fix the lining correctly.

Ceiling decoration

When decorating the ceiling, you can divide the room into several color zones or make it striped, matte or glossy, or monochrome dark or white. Use lining with a clearly defined seam or seamless.

White color visually expands the room.

Clapboard ceiling decoration

Ceiling clapboard

Buy the widest lining. There will be more scraps from such slats, but it will be more beautiful.

Before sheathing the ceiling, make the same crate as in the case of wall sheathing. If the ceiling is concrete, then the timber is attached to the dowels. To install the dowels in the ceiling, holes are drilled with a perforator with a drill 6-8 mm in diameter.

Before starting work, remove peeling plaster. The bar is used with a cross section from 30 × 30 to 50 × 50. Additionally, a timber is attached at the edges at a distance of 0.1 from the walls.

If the ceiling of rooms with high humidity is sheathed with clapboard, then a galvanized profile for drywall and self-tapping screws are used for it.

How to nail the lining to the ceiling?

Lining fixing scheme

Final works

After the installation is completed, the lining is varnished. The varnish is chosen based on specific conditions. Therefore, before buying, you need to get advice from a specialist. Although you can simply paint the lining with linseed oil or stain.

At the end of the finishing work, you can cover all the joints with decorative corners.

How to mount the lining on the wall
In our today's article, we will look at how to properly fasten the lining, how to prepare the walls, as well as the basic methods of fastening

More than half of the owners of country houses prefer to make interior wall decoration using lining. And this is not surprising: the lining is a wonderful material that gives the home an attractive appearance. In addition, it is quite easy to install, and if necessary, you can do it yourself.

Clapboard decoration indoors is a common way to make the interior of a country house cozy and practical.

Directions for laying lining

Today manufacturers offer several types of lining. It can be wooden, MDF or plastic. Wooden lining is the most environmentally friendly type of finishing materials, giving the house coziness and comfort. In addition, the tree always stands out for its appearance.

Horizontal finishing with clapboard makes the room visually wider, but lower - therefore, this method of laying the clapboard should be used in large rooms.

Getting started with this type of finish, you first need to determine the direction along which the material will be attached. So, there are several features when choosing a direction:

1. When fixing the lining vertically, the room visually decreases, but becomes higher.
2. Horizontal mounting allows you to visually make the room wider, but lower.
3. Laying the material at an angle (diagonally) avoids negative visual effects and looks more sophisticated, but requires more financial costs and working skills.

When installing the material, if necessary, you can combine all three directions of laying. This will add originality and personality to the house.

Lining fixing rules

If the wall of the house is made of wood, has a flat and smooth surface, then you can mount the elements directly on it. In all other cases, in order for the wall decoration to be of high quality and durable, it is necessary to use a crate.

When the direction is determined, the necessary materials and tools should be purchased. For vertical or horizontal fastening of the lining you will need:

Clapboard decoration technology.

The technologies of horizontal, diagonal and vertical laying of the lining are slightly different from each other, so it is necessary to consider each option separately.

Laying the battens for fastening elements

Sheathing technology.

The lathing is made of even, well-dried wooden slats with a cross section of at least 40x20 mm. Before starting work, all slats must be treated with an antiseptic solution to avoid the appearance of mold and their rotting.

Work begins from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance. In the corner, using a plumb line, the first rail is installed strictly vertically. The rail is fastened to the wall with plastic dowels and long screws with a pitch of about 50 cm. When fastening, it is advisable to use wooden spacers.

In the opposite corner of the room, a second rail is mounted in the same way as described. At the top and bottom of the wall, both slats are connected by two well-stretched cords, which will later serve as a guide for fixing horizontal slats in the upper and lower parts of the wall.

According to the position of the ropes, horizontal slats are mounted near the plinth and under the ceiling. The next horizontal rail is attached 50 cm from the bottom. You can determine the horizontal position of the mount either with a cord stretched between two corner rails, or with a rule inserted between the horizontal rails. All subsequent horizontal battens of the battens are attached in the same way.

Installation of lining elements

Installation technology of lining elements.

When the installation of the battens is completed on all walls, you can fasten the wooden lining. As a rule, work always starts from the left corner of the room. First of all, you need to prepare the material. This requires each element to be given the desired length. Using a jigsaw or a fine-toothed saw, the lining is sawn off in such a way that its length is 0.5-1 cm less than the height of the wall.

Then the first element is attached to the lathing with a comb in the corner. Fastening is usually done with finishing studs, hammering them into the comb of the element to each batten rail. In addition, you can fix the material with screws, but here you need to pay attention to their thickness: too thick screws can lead to cracking of the lining. Considering this, when using screws instead of nails, it is first necessary to drill holes for fasteners with a drill.

The subsequent elements of the lining are mounted with a comb in the grooves of the previous ones and are attached to the lathing for the bottom shelf of the groove. In this case, the ridges hide the caps of the fasteners. When fastening elements with nails, it is also necessary to take into account some features. For example, in order not to damage the front side of the finish, it is required to drive a nail into the comb with a hammer only to the middle, then it is finished off with a blunt core or punch.

Instead of nails or screws, you can also use special fasteners that do not damage the lining elements - clamps. Cleamers are metal staples that are put on the groove of the element and nailed to the crate. In this case, you can use both small nails and screws and staples of a construction stapler.

In similar ways, all elements of the material are mounted on the wall. Occasionally it is necessary to control the verticality of the installation using a plumb line. The last element of the lining is cut to the desired width and nailed to the corner rail.

A ridge is cut off from the element that will be attached to the next wall first: this way, it will close the fastener heads on the last element of the previous wall. All finishing material is laid in a similar way.

Rules for fastening the lining in horizontal and diagonal ways

The installation of lining elements in a horizontal manner occurs according to the following algorithm:

1. The lathing on the walls is not mounted horizontally, but vertically.
2. Installation of elements can be done in two ways: from top to bottom or bottom to top. Fastening from bottom to top is more convenient, since it allows you to freely see the grooves into which nails are driven in or clips are attached. But this method has two serious drawbacks:

• the last finishing element may require trimming to the width, which will look ugly under the ceiling,
• when viewed from below, gaps will be visible between the elements.

Therefore, it is advisable to start horizontal laying of elements from the ceiling. The ridge is cut off at the first element, then it is fixed on the slats. The following parts are inserted with a comb into the grooves of the previous ones and nailed in the same way as the method already described. If, after the installation is completed, a small gap remains near the floor, it can be closed with a baseboard.

Diagonal wall paneling is usually used for finishing ceilings, but can also be used for decorating walls. Here the lathing is attached in such a way that the slats make a right angle with respect to the lining elements.

Before starting the installation, all the ends of the elements, as well as their length, are cut according to the template. Fastening starts from the corner, is done first in one direction, and then in the other. If the lining is used for finishing the ceiling, it is advisable to use clamps: this way the ceiling will look more decorative.

Installation of wooden lining can be successfully done with your own hands. Similarly to the described methods, the fastening of other types of lining is also made. If you take your time and do the work with due attention and accuracy, wall decoration with clapboard will last a long time and will delight you with its aesthetic appearance.

How to properly fix a wooden lining with your own hands?
Instructions on how to fix wooden lining. Possible directions of laying and differences in carrying out installation work in these ways. Rules for laying the lathing and installing lining elements.

Nowadays, the range of finishing materials is very diverse. High-quality and beautiful products can be selected for both outdoor and indoor work. Separately, it is worth highlighting such a popular material as lining. Today we will consider in detail how to fix it correctly.

Features:

The premises, finished with wooden materials, look incredibly cozy and hospitable. That is why many buyers opt for such design options.

A wide variety of finishes can be used for such an attractive finish, from special wood panels to wood-effect laminate. However, different types of lining are recognized as one of the most popular and demanded. This material is not uncommon - it is easy to find it in specialized stores.

High-quality lining made of wood has an impressive service life. According to manufacturers, such products can serve for 15-20 years without any problems, without losing their original appearance.

The durability of the lining largely depends on the proper care by the owners of the home.Such coatings should be treated with special antiseptic compositions from time to time. They are necessary to protect natural material from the appearance of fungus or mold. It's not a secret for anyone that wood is a favorite "dish" of various insects, but with the use of special impregnations, you can forget about such problems.

As a rule, the lining is processed by similar means at the stage of its manufacture. However, over time, the material will still need self-care. Fortunately, many suitable products and varnishes are sold in stores that will provide the lining with excellent protection from negative external factors.

Pros and cons

Lining is rightfully recognized as one of the most demanded materials. Consumers choose this finish because it has not only a harmonious and natural appearance, but also a number of other positive qualities.

• The main advantage of the lining is its environmental friendliness. Currently, not every finishing material can boast of such quality. The lining does not emit hazardous and harmful substances, even if it is in high temperatures.
• The lining can be given a perfectly smooth and pleasant to the touch surface.

• To install such wood panels, it is not at all necessary to involve professional finishing teams. Fastening of such materials can be done on your own, following simple instructions.
• Many consumers note the pleasant woody aroma inherent in such finishing materials. Thanks to this property, an indescribable atmosphere is created in the room.
• High-quality lining boasts resistance to mechanical damage and strong impacts. It is not so easy to break or damage it.
• The lining is not a soiled material, however, if dirt appears on its surface, then you do not have to make much effort to remove them.

• It is worth noting the excellent thermal insulation properties of the lining. A room in which such a finish is present will always maintain a comfortable microclimate.
• Also, the lining has soundproofing properties. Thanks to such materials, the audibility of extraneous annoying noises in the room is significantly reduced.
• Under the clapboard, you can hide unpresentable elements such as wires and various communications.

• This finish can be used not only in a country or country house, but also in an ordinary city apartment.
• Clapboard can be used to decorate not only walls, but also the ceiling. Ceilings designed in this way look very aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Of course, the lining has its drawbacks.You should also familiarize yourself with them if you want to refer to this material in the design of your home.

• To install the lining, a frame is often required. Most often, such mounting structures have to be addressed when it comes to finishing the ceiling. Also, you cannot do without a frame if the walls in the room are too uneven and have noticeable differences.

• The disadvantages of the lining include the fact that it is not fireproof. Of course, this quality can be corrected if the material is processed with special means, but even they will not make such raw materials 100% nonflammable.
• Over the years, the lining can change its geometric parameters. Most often, such deformations occur if the owners improperly looked after the finish or installed it incorrectly.
• Lining cannot be called a cheap material. Moreover, many consumers consider it quite expensive.
• It was mentioned above that it is necessary to periodically look after the clapboard, treating it with special protective compounds. Most consumers consider this feature to be a disadvantage.

Kinds

There are several types of lining. They are made from different materials and have different performance characteristics. Let's consider them in more detail.

Wooden

The most popular is wood paneling.

The manufacturing process is rather complicated and takes place in several stages. The proper quality of such a finishing material can be achieved only if you strictly adhere to a certain technology:

• first, the edged board is prepared;
• after that it is dried in a special industrial way;
• further work is carried out on sawing grooves;
• then the wooden lining is carefully polished;
• at the end of all production processes, the resulting panels are always sorted.

The properties of wooden lining largely depend on the type of wood from which it is made.

Aspen

Aspen boards are light in color. There are practically no resins in their composition. Such materials can boast of good thermal insulation characteristics, so they are often used for interior decoration.

Aspen lining can also be installed in baths or saunas. Of course, in such cases, one must not forget about the high-quality processing of the material so that it does not rot.

From spruce

As a rule, northern spruce is used for the manufacture of lining. It differs in a fairly dense and hard wood. Such finishing materials can be used to decorate not only the walls in the dwelling, but also the ceiling.

Spruce lining is not afraid of dampness and moisture. However, it should be borne in mind that over time, it changes its color and becomes darker.

Pine

Pine lining is one of the most common. It is inexpensive, but it has excellent quality, so many consumers choose it.

Pine lining is distinguished by a beautiful natural structure, which also becomes darker over time.

Oak

Oak lining is expensive, but this does not affect its popularity. Such finishing material is not subject to decay and is easy to process.

The main advantages of oak lining are its amazing color and structure. With the help of such a finish, you can transform the interior, making it richer and more solid. Experts say that oak lining must be stained and pickled.

Hardwood

Lining made of hardwoods practically does not emit resins and has a low density. Thanks to these characteristics, it can be safely used in the cladding of a bath or sauna.

Wooden lining can have different cross sections.

• Standard. Such panels are equipped with a standard tongue-and-groove locking system. As a rule, the tenons in the lining are always slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that when the wood is strongly drying out, no deformation of the material occurs. Panels with a standard cross-section have good sound and heat insulation.
• "Calm". Otherwise, panels with such a section are called "collective farmers". They have rounded outer corners. Such materials look very neat and tidy.
• Euro lining. These types of wooden lining have a longer groove, so as a result, the surface takes on a completely different appearance.
• Softline. Such finishing materials also have rounded bevels and a long groove.

Also, lining made of wood is divided into classes.

• "AND". This class includes high quality panels. Small knots are sometimes visible on their surface, but they do not fall out. Also, on such materials, you can find several small cracks and cracks. Class "A" lining can be safely used for interior decoration.
• "IN". Planks of this class have a length of 1.5 m. There can be no more than 3-4 knots on their surface. Also, these types of lining have small resin pockets and blind slits. Experts do not recommend using such materials for interior cladding.
• "FROM". Materials of this class are not of high quality. As a rule, they are used to decorate outbuildings for which design is not so important. In such slats, noticeable knots can fall out, and through slots are often present. Their color is far from the standard.
• "Extra".The "Extra" class lining is an ideal finishing material. There are no defects on the surface of such panels.

Metal

Instead of wood, you can use metal lining. Most often, such facing materials are used when it is necessary to arrange a base that is in conditions of high humidity. Such panels are not afraid of negative external influences and protect the base on which they are installed from them.

Many consumers opt for metal lining, as it has an almost unlimited service life. She does not require complex and regular care, which speaks of her unpretentiousness.

The good thing about metal lining is that it is presented in a very rich color spectrum. In addition, this finishing material can have a different texture.

The advantage of metal panels is that they are non-flammable and do not support combustion.Popular wooden coatings cannot boast of such qualities.

Such materials are also environmentally friendly. They do not contain hazardous compounds that are harmful to human health. You can install the metal lining yourself. Moreover, this material can be mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling.

Plastic

If metal and wood types of lining seem too expensive for you, then you should look for more affordable plastic options. Such coatings are made of polyvinyl chloride. This material is safe for human health, so you don't have to worry about the well-being of household members.

As a rule, the width of PVC lining is 10 cm. Wooden elements have similar parameters. In addition, plastic panels can be used not only for interior, but also exterior decoration of the home.

Plastic lining is not only monochromatic, but also multicolored. In some stores, you can find more original materials with interesting prints or patterns. Panels that imitate natural wood are especially popular today.

For exterior decoration, it is recommended to use a special frost-resistant lining. For its manufacture, special plastic is used, supplemented with the necessary additives. Such a finishing material easily tolerates both low and high temperatures.

Plastic lining for outdoor use cannot boast of such a wide selection of different colors. Here, as a rule, monochrome options for calm tones are used, as well as wood-like coatings.

The advantages of PVC lining include:

• heat and sound insulation properties;
• fire safety;
• resistance to high temperatures;
• non-susceptibility to mechanical damage;

• moisture permeability;
• light weight;
• democratic cost (especially when compared with natural wooden materials);
• unpretentiousness.

Plastic clapboard does not need to be regularly looked after using expensive means. In addition, dirt and dust are very easily removed from it.

Preparing the walls

Before installing the lining (especially if it is wooden), it is necessary to properly prepare the walls. After purchase, the lining itself should be placed in a dry room for at least a day. There, it must settle and adapt to room temperature. Only after that can you start cutting the finishing material to give it the desired length. If you neglect this stage of work, then the panels will not be tightly attached to each other.

As for the walls themselves, they will need to provide good vapor barrier.To do this, you first need to nail the slats onto them. Their width should not be less than 3 cm. These elements must be nailed in 1 m increments. Then you need to take a film made of polyethylene, foil or roofing material and install it on the fixed slats. Small holes should be made at the top and bottom of the vapor barrier to ensure better ventilation.

This stage cannot be called strictly mandatory, however, experts recommend using it when it comes to a room with a high level of humidity from the outside.

Next, you need to build a high-quality crate for wooden slats.Slats with a section of 20x40 cm must be screwed with a screwdriver. Observe a step of 40-50 cm (horizontally). Always check that all parts are correctly installed using the mounting level.

With the help of rails, you can qualitatively level the wall before installing the lining. This makes the boards much easier to attach to the base. In addition, such a frame should also be assembled so that the gap between the ceiling and the wood trim is ventilated.

If the walls do not have a flat surface, then something must additionally be laid under the crate. You can also build thicker battens. A plywood sheet, block of wood, or a mounting wedge is best for the backing. The lathing should be fixed with long screws and dowel-nails. The lower slats should recede 5 cm from the floor, since there will be a plinth in this area. The same indentation should be adhered to in the upper part of the structure, since there will also be a plinth, but already a ceiling one.

The lathing must be installed around door or window openings. Such structures are made not only from wood, but also from metal or plastic.

If you did not install a vapor barrier on the base, then the crate should be mounted directly to the wall. If it is present:

• if the slats to which the vapor barrier was attached were fixed vertically, then the details of the sheathing should be installed horizontally and vice versa;
• the fastening of the battens to the slats on which the vapor barrier layer lies must be done with long self-tapping screws.

Insulation should be laid in the appeared "windows". Experts recommend purchasing mineral wool for this. The insulation should be fixed with polypropylene spar so that over time it does not shrink.

Another layer of vapor barrier can be laid on the insulation. It should be attached with the rough side to the insulating layer.

Instruments

For the installation of the frame and wall cladding with clapboard, you must have the following devices:

• screwdriver;
• perforator with the necessary attachments;
• building level;
• a hammer;
• mallet;
• jigsaw;
• electric stapler;
• wooden corners;
• self-tapping screws;
• assembly gun;
• nails;
• profile (for the frame);
• staples.

Mounting methods

In total, there are two main options for fastening the lining. They differ from each other in directions. Let's consider them in more detail.

Vertical

The vertical fastening of the lining is done in this way:

• The starting part is installed in the corner. To do this, use nails, which are then hidden under a decorative corner. If you don't have this item, you can simply "bite off" the hats with side cutters. Drive nails as carefully and carefully as possible.
• Always check whether you are vertically laying the lining correctly - any errors can lead to the fact that the next lamellas will bend more and more.
• The fixed part must be attached with clamps. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the remaining lamellas. However, they must first be inserted into the grooves, and only then fastened.
• Every 5 elements, it is necessary to check the evenness of the surface using a level and a plumb line.
• The final lamella must be filed to the required dimensions.

Horizontal

To lay the lining in a horizontal way, the following rules should be observed:

• In this case, the lamellas must be fixed starting from the ceiling. The groove should point downward. If the finish looks like a rounded log, then it should be installed with the groove up to hide the docking points.
• The parts should be fastened together according to the same principle as with the vertical installation method. It should be borne in mind that for a more reliable fixation, the boards should be knocked out with dies.
• Gradually going down from top to bottom, it will be much more convenient to fasten all the lamellas with the help of studs. It is very important to hammer them in such a way as not to harm the front of the lining.

Calculation of the amount of material

When choosing a lining, you need to figure out the amount of finishing material that you need. As a rule, the cost of wooden lamellas is indicated in square meters (less often in cubic meters). However, an elementary mathematical calculation in this case will not work, since the quadrature will be influenced by such parameters as the length of the lamellas, the height of the floors in the house, the dimensions of the door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the number of lining.

• Intuitive.Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that you plan to trim with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add 10-30% waste to the result. This calculation method is simple, but not the most accurate.
• Mathematical.This calculation method is more scrupulous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas one by one, taking into account their length and width, as well as the dimensions of the openings. For the calculation, the surface length parameter should be divided by the lamella width. So you can determine the required number of lining. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain a fairly accurate value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

If you decide to sheathe the walls in the house with clapboard with your own hands, then you some simple recommendations should be followed:

• During installation, make sure that no ugly gaps remain between the lamellas. You can avoid these defects if you constantly monitor the level of material laying.
• When calculating the required amount of material, do not forget about elements such as doors and windows. You need to build a frame around them. Slopes from the lining can also be built with your own hands. The main thing is to adhere to the correct dimensional parameters.

• If you want to freshen up the atmosphere, then you need to form various geometric images on the floors with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to several options for the layout of the lamellas at once.
• In winter, it is not recommended to put the lining on the walls. It is better to postpone such work until summer or spring, so that the material does not undergo deformation.
• If you have chosen a lining for finishing, which has the shape of a rounded log, then you should install it with the groove up. This is necessary to hide the docking of individual parts.

• Many users are sure that lining can only be mounted on a metal profile. Of course, such structures can be used, but they are more suitable for those cases when the floors in the room have too strong irregularities and differences.
• The diagonal wall clapboard looks original. It should be made on a frame in which the racks are located at a closer distance to each other.

• After installation, the lining will need regular maintenance. To do this, you will need a primer for wood, antiseptic compounds, bio oil, alkyd varnish, antipyrine, which forms a refractory layer and other similar substances. According to experts, the processing of the lining must be done before its direct installation.
• When choosing a suitable material, pay attention to its class, since it is recommended to sheathe living quarters with some lamellas, and outbuildings with others. Of course, for the interior cladding it is best to use the highest quality materials of the "extra" class.
• Stock up on all the tools you need in advance. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in with a screwdriver, as this will take a minimum of time. However, don't forget to be careful. Work carefully to avoid damaging the finishing material.
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Lining is an excellent versatile material for the final finishing of ceiling surfaces, interior and exterior walls. Such cladding is perfect for finishing door leaves in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fastened each time according to the same pattern.

What is especially impressive is the ease of work with this material. Clapboard cladding can be easily dealt with on your own.

But first, you should always use the tutorial. This can be the instruction for installing the lining with your own hands.

Using instructions

Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the learning process for any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. It is beneficial to do something on your own, first of all, from a financial point of view. Moreover, when it comes to simple processes. Wood paneling falls into this category.

For better understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, a photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as an additional visual material. And of course, one cannot but ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.

It is important, using all educational materials, to study all the details, master the technology. Then, already confident that no problems will arise, you can safely start work.

Stages of plating

Do-it-yourself step-by-step installation of the lining consists in performing the following steps:

Carry out preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. They are impregnated with special compounds such as an antiseptic and a fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use a stain or paint of the required color.

After the paint composition has dried, a sheathing of wooden slats or timber with a section of 5x5 cm is mounted on the selected area. The step of fastening the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation plate. For fastening the rails, screws or self-tapping screws are used.

The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future order of the plating depends on this.

The option for installing the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial procedure for fastening the frame.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Do-it-yourself horizontal installation of the lining makes the room seem more spacious.

In the resulting cells, when using a bar, heat-insulating plates are arranged. Upon completion of work, the entire working area is covered with plastic wrap, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is finishing with wood panels. The room takes on a finished look.

The technology for the correct installation of the lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.

The process takes place in the following order:

• wall fastening of the panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
• the lining is mounted on wooden bars or slats. The grooves are down. For the evenness of the panels, a bottom fit is made using a piece of wood board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the skin and the floor.

The difference between fasteners and their characteristics

Fasteners are used for fixing. The spikes of the subsequent sheathing elements are inserted into the grooves and secured with specially selected parts. These can be staples, clamps, or regular nails and screws. Each of these elements of rigid fixation has its own meaning.

Nails hammered into grooves are among the neat, almost invisible type of fastening. Claymers are characterized as high-quality fixation. For staples, it is necessary to use a mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.

Reception of panel alignment

The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. A decorative plinth is laid along the line of its joining with an angle. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out a very beautiful appearance.

A similar finish with a plinth is carried out along all lines of conjugation of the surfaces of the walls with the ceiling, along the wall corners and ledges.

Ceiling sheathing procedure

Do-it-yourself installation of the lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The only difference is in the initial order of the panels.

Layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. In this way, shadows between the cladding elements are hidden.

Photo of lining installation

Decorating the room with wooden clapboard ennobles the interior, improves the heat and sound insulation properties of the walls. The cladding can be done independently or you can seek professional help. In order to quickly and efficiently carry out the work, and the surface of the cladding was smooth, beautiful and served for a long time, it is important to know how to fix the lining.

The sequence of finishing works

The first step is choosing a wall decoration option. The lining can be fastened in two ways:

• On the walls;
• On the crate.

The first option is preferable in a wooden house, since wood tends to expand or decrease in size, "breathe". If the base material is the same as the coating, their joint oscillatory motion will not cause multidirectional stresses, leading to deformations, the appearance of defects on the surface.

In brick and concrete houses, before fastening the lining, a crate is mounted, which, moreover, can serve as a frame for laying thermal insulation. It is convenient to place corrugated hoses for electrical wiring, heating pipes in the space between the coating and the wall.

The second is the correct measurement of the room and the calculation of materials. This will help you avoid unnecessary waste or wasted time on additional trips to buy missing components. Determine the number of lining, based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls, excluding openings. The length of the ceiling and floor plinths is equal to the perimeter of the room. To decorate the corners, you will need curly strips. Materials are purchased with a margin of 10-15% for marriage or other defects.

Wood is a living structure that is sensitive to fluctuations in humidity and temperature.

Before starting work, it is unpacked, allowed to "get used to" the new conditions, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, if there is no factory preparation.

Before installing the lathing or directly attaching the lining to the wall, prepare the surface - clean, level, fill up the cracks, cover with antiseptic compounds. This will protect the structure from the appearance of mold and mildew.

The third step is to install the lathing. Most often it is made from wooden bars with a section of 20x30, 40x50 or more. The thickness of the element depends on whether the insulation is laid under the lining. A ventilation gap is left between the thermal insulation layer and the coating, which prevents the accumulation of condensation.

The frame pitch is 40-60 cm, the direction is perpendicular to the finishing boards. Insulating roll or slab material should fit tightly into the space between the bars. For residential premises, it is usually mineral wool; outside, foamed polystyrene foam or other polymers are often used. They are not afraid of moisture. Before fixing the lining, perform vapor barrier and waterproofing. A film or membrane is used that allows the liquid to evaporate, but does not allow it to pass in the opposite direction.

The geometry is controlled by a bubble or laser level. Dowels or construction nails are used as fasteners for the lathing.

Fasteners for lining

The profile strips can be positioned vertically, horizontally or obliquely. In dry rooms, the direction of the board is chosen arbitrarily, consistent only with the design idea or your preferences.

In places where humidity is high or water may flow into the gaps between the planks, the boards are installed either vertically or horizontally so that the spike is directed upwards.

Then the liquid will not penetrate through the joint.

The lining is fastened using fasteners, the following methods are distinguished:

• Nails;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Claymers;
• With staples.

Nails

The fixation must be reliable, and the material must be firmly held on the frame. It is desirable that the fasteners are invisible and not corroded in a humid environment. These requirements are met by finishing nails, the head of which has a cylindrical shape, and its diameter is slightly larger than the rod. The surface of the hardware is coated with zinc, brass, copper or bronze, they are not afraid of exposure to water.

The length of the dowels is 20-50 mm, the section is 1.2-1.8 mm. The diameter of the cap is 1.6-3.4 mm. The nail easily enters the wood without splitting it. Doboinik it is sunk into the thickness of the material.

Specialized equipment for hammering nails - pneumatic gun. It allows you to quickly, efficiently, without spending much physical effort, to mount the lining on a vertical surface and ceiling.

The length of the nail should be 2.5-3 times the thickness of the profile board. Most often, hardware is used from 50 to 60 mm. They are hammered with a hammer using a doboynik having a tapered end, or with home-made devices from a bolt or center punch. You can nail the strip through the middle of the element, obliquely from the longitudinal tongue or from the side of the groove into the protruding lower shelf.

Kleimers

Cleamers - staples made of spring steel or galvanized iron with a tongue for the board and 3-4 holes for nails, screws or staples. The element is inserted into the foot and attached to the frame with hardware. From the front of the surface of the finish, the connection is completely invisible.

Kleimers are selected taking into account the thickness of the lining, the larger it is, the more powerful the fasteners should be. The amount of foot lift varies from 2 to 5 mm in 0.5 mm increments. The number of the hardware is chosen in accordance with the size of the spike of the wooden profile, otherwise the mount does not hold the part tightly or it will have to be pushed in with hammer blows.

Kleimers are not designed to withstand the load, therefore, hangers, ceiling lamps, shelves, cabinets cannot be fixed to the coating. Before fixing the lining, determine the places for hanging the equipment. If it is heavy enough, additional embedded parts are mounted on the wall.

Self-tapping screws

Self-tapping screws - hardened steel rods with threads and a head for a screwing tool. For fixing the lining, yellow and white hardware with a protective anti-corrosion coating is used. The thread pitch is increased in comparison with metal fasteners, since wood has a layered loose structure.

The most commonly used self-tapping screws are 20-45 mm long and 2.2-3.5 mm in diameter. They are screwed in with a screwdriver, screwdriver, holes are pre-drilled in hard wood. You can fasten the lining through the through method, then use products with a countersunk head. After installation, the grooves are filled with a dowel, leveled and putty.

Kleimers are attached to the crate with thin small screws, nails or staples. The recommended size of the pins is 10-12 mm.

Compared to nails, self-tapping screws have a higher fastening strength, are less susceptible to being pulled out, and can be removed if necessary. They are more convenient when using cleats, as the fasteners can be damaged by hammer blows.

Experienced craftsmen advise how to properly fix the lining: use nails and self-tapping screws in inconspicuous places, and put a kleimer in plain sight.

Staples

Fastening the lining with staples is performed with a construction mechanical, pneumatic or electric stapler. Fasteners penetrate the wood with little or no physical effort, so a large amount of work can be done in a short time. The advantage of this method is the absence of irreversible damage in the material. The most popular sizes are 4-14 mm - leg length and 11.4 mm - staple width.

Hardware is produced both untreated against corrosion and galvanized or copper-plated for use in conditions with high humidity. In pneumatic and electric models of staplers, the impact force is regulated, which is important when working with such soft materials as wood.

The staples are driven into the groove at an angle. Clips can be fastened in the same way, the dimensions of the hardware must correspond to the distance between the holes in the plate.

Vertical lining

With this layout of the boards, the crate is installed horizontally. The bars are pretreated with impregnations against decay and pests. The location of the guides is marked on the wall in increments of 40-60 cm. The dowel or self-tapping screw is deepened into the wall by at least 50 mm. If necessary, the hole is reamed. The upper and lower elements should be as close to the ceiling or floor as possible so that the lining can be securely fixed at the edges. Corners and openings are additionally reinforced with jumpers.

Before fixing the lining, determine the most visible angle. The first profile is nailed. Alternately insert the board with a spike into the groove of the previous element, fix it with fasteners to the crate. Verticality is controlled by the building level.

The hardware is driven into the bottom shelf of the groove at an angle, the caps are recessed so that the crest of the next lining can freely enter the recess. The last board is trimmed to fit the remaining piece and nailed.

Joints, abutments and corners are closed with slats, skirting boards, layouts.

Horizontal lining

The lathing is mounted vertically from the corners, observing a step of 40-60 cm. To fix the insulation, horizontal bridges are additionally nailed through 1.2 m or an additional frame is arranged so that the plates do not slide down. Before fixing the lining, lay a vapor barrier, heat insulator and waterproofing.

The installation of the lamellas starts from the top element, since the last bottom bar is usually cut. At the level of the ceiling, a whole lining looks better visually, and a board that is non-standard in width near the floor will be covered with a plinth.

When fastening the lining horizontally, the spike is directed up. Gently tapping with a rubber-tipped mallet or hammer on the trimming of the wooden profile, set each subsequent board in place and fix it from below with fasteners. The first and last element, as well as short pieces less than 10 cm long, are nailed or fastened with self-tapping screws.

If the wall is sheathed from the bottom up, the board is fixed to the crate from the bottom side, and a self-tapping screw is screwed into the spike at the top with a head flush with the surface.

The next panel is pushed onto the ridge and fastened with hardware in the thorn. The last lining is fixed in the same way as the first.

Ceiling sheathing

Ceiling lathing is mounted on hangers or brackets. The horizontal level is set with a laser level, guided by the lowest point of overlap. A fishing line is pulled along the walls, frame bars are placed along it with a step of 25-35 cm for eurolining, 40-60 - for other types. When finishing the entire room with clapboard, the walls are first sheathed, then the ceiling.

Before fixing the lining, all communications are laid, embedded parts for massive lamps are installed. If the ceiling is insulated, a vapor barrier film is shot from the side of the ceiling with a stapler to the crate or wooden wall. Thermal insulation is inserted between the frame bars and covered with a membrane. The rough surface should be directed towards the insulation.

The lining begins to be mounted on the side opposite to the entrance so that the last cut board is not conspicuous. If the length of the lamellas is insufficient, use a layout with joints along one line or with a gap between the seams. The border is closed with a decorative strip or the ends are carefully sanded. Then the docking place is neat and unobtrusive.

Frequent mistakes

To avoid mistakes, it is important to know how to properly fix the lining:

1. Choose well-dried material;
2. Prime and paint before installation so that there are no areas that are difficult to reach for finishing;
3. Leave a gap between the board and the adjoining wall to compensate for shrinkage or expansion;
4. Secure the first, last and extreme elements firmly - with nails or self-tapping screws;
5. For interior decoration, insert the spike into the groove tightly so that no cracks form when the tree dries out;
6. When cladding from the outside in the tongue-and-groove joint, gaps are left to compensate for the moisture expansion of the wood;
7. Select nails, screws and clamps according to the size of the lining;
8. Cleamers are not intended for fixing the board in unheated rooms and outdoors;
9. Do not work in frost or rain;

Do not neglect the treatment with antiseptics, fire retardants, protective paint compounds.

Today there are thousands of different materials for surface finishing, from lining to porcelain stoneware slabs. Depending on the requirements for performance properties, the choice is limited to hundreds of different types. Lining is quite popular, and at the same time reliable, durable and, which is important, easy to install. But it is worth noting that in order to obtain the desired result, it is necessary to correctly fasten the lining. That is why the question arises, how to fix the lining? The answer to which you will find further. We will consider all methods and types of fastening, both indoors and in the case.

Types of lining fastening

First, you should familiarize yourself with the types of fastening, consider each of them a little closer.

In total, there are two types:

• Horizontal, or wall mounting.
• Vertical, ceiling mount.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Horizontal method of fastening the lining

How to fix the lining to the wall? With horizontal fastening of the lining, installation is most often carried out from top to bottom. The first board is mounted directly under the ceiling, leaving a gap of several centimeters (installation is carried out with the groove down). Further, each subsequent strip is installed with a ridge into the groove in turn. This is how the entire installation process is carried out up to the last board. The latter is cut in width, usually in half, and carefully mounted in place using a pry bar or nail puller. The remaining gap, the size of which will be 2-3 centimeters, is closed with a plinth.

There is also a reverse fastening of the lining to the wall, i.e. top down. It is used extremely rarely. It can be noted that the fastening itself will be somewhat easier, since the visibility of the fastening zones is improved, but there are a significant number of disadvantages:

• The last board installed will spoil the appearance of the entire finish, since it will be cut (which does not happen in the case of installation from top to bottom, since this board is at the bottom and is not striking).
• There will be gaps between the panels, which is not very good both in terms of operation and decoration.

Vertical or ceiling mounting

Speaking about how to fix the lining to the ceiling, a number of rules should be highlighted, which must be followed when carrying out work:

• First of all, you should pay attention to the installation of the frame, it should be done from bars of 20 * 25 millimeters.
• It is advisable to pull a few cords around the edges before starting the level installation, along which you can navigate in the future, which will somewhat simplify and speed up the whole process.
• It is necessary to mount these bars only horizontally. Initially, fastening is carried out along the edges, after checking the building level, 3-4 additional fastenings are provided additionally.
• In the case of fixing the lining in rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to pre-treat it with an antiseptic, or a hydrophobic composition.
• The fastening itself is carried out most often with the help of nails, which are driven in at an angle. In some cases, kleimers are used. Also, when attaching the plastic lining, you can use a construction stapler.
• The first plank is attached directly to the wall, leaving a small gap of 2-3 centimeters. It is recommended to install with the spike towards you.
• The boards themselves are mounted alternately, if necessary, for a tighter bond, they are knocked out with a rubber hammer (with a usual one you can accidentally damage the surface, so it is better not to use it).
• It should be noted that usually electrical wiring is installed on the ceiling (at least for arranging lighting), therefore, hydro and vapor barrier should be provided.

Lining fastening methods

Regardless of the type of fastening, vertical or horizontal, the lining must be fastened to the crate, i.e. wooden frame. Moreover, each of its elements must be set strictly in level, since any irregularities or irregularities will ultimately lead to the appearance of bulges or depressions, which in turn will greatly spoil the appearance of the finish as a whole.

After installing the frame, you can proceed to the direct fastening of the lining. Moreover, in the case when it is carried out in rooms where high humidity is expected, it is necessary to treat all elements with special hydrophobic substances.

After the installation is completed, a small piece of the board is inserted into the left gap, with the help of which, by pressing or tapping, a tighter connection of the entire structure is made, which in turn allows you to completely get rid of the cracks.

It should be noted that when fastening, it is necessary to leave small gaps of 2-3 centimeters at the beginning of the structure, i.e. at the ceiling, and at the end, at the floor. Such a solution will compensate for the temperature regime and provide additional ventilation in the room. In the absence of such indents, there is a risk that after a while the boards will swell, and this will negatively affect both the appearance and the operational characteristics of the entire finish. Subsequently, such indents are closed with a plinth.

In any case, without taking into account the chosen method of fastening the lining, the first plank is nailed to the frame with finishing nails, it is advisable to completely drown the head in the board using a doboiner. In this case, regardless of the method of fastening, each board is initially nailed in the middle, then along the edges, depending on the length, to additional beams (strictly after checking with the building level, and confirming the horizontal position).

In total, four main methods of fixing the lining can be distinguished:

• screws or self-tapping screws;
• using nails;
• using clamps;
• and using a stapler.

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws

How to fix the lining with self-tapping screws? This method is usually often found when decorating premises where additional processing or decoration is not required. In particular, you can often find the use of this method when facing baths. But it should be noted that such a solution is not effective in conditions of frequent temperature changes, as well as high humidity, since in this case the fasteners can dry out, and this will significantly worsen the appearance. But you can get rid of such a problem by pre-processing with special compounds. At the same time, it is advisable to carry out it once every few months.

It should also be noted that such a mount is quite reliable, as a result of which it will be a good solution when planning the long-term operation of the finish.

The process of fixing the lining with self-tapping screws goes as follows:

• Initially, each board is tried on on the frame, and marks of the attachment points are made.
• Further, technological holes are prepared, with a diameter 2 times smaller than the diameter of a self-tapping screw.
• Further, the installation itself is carried out directly. In this case, the fasteners are screwed into the previously prepared holes with a screwdriver as deep as possible.
• To mask the attachment points, the holes are then closed with a wooden pin and sanded.

Fastening the lining with nails

Installation in this way is quite economical, simple, but at the same time somewhat unsafe, since there is a risk of board splitting, and also short-lived. At the same time, in order to protect the lining from damage, you can use a doboiner, or pre-prepare holes for fastening in the necessary places.

And yet, how to fasten the lining with nails? Let's start, perhaps, to answer this question from afar, namely with a set of materials and tools:

• doboinik, for full-fledged hammering of nails without damaging the board;
• a hammer;
• lining, on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room;
• nails, in the amount of 5-7 pieces per one standard strip (100x1500).

Here is such a basic installation kit, it should be noted that a large consumption of nails will somewhat adversely affect the appearance, but it cannot be reduced, since in this case the fastening will not be strong enough.

For fastening the lining, nails 50-60 millimeters long are usually used. In this case, each fastener is neatly fitted into a groove, after which it is hammered in with a hammer. To remove the caps from the surface, and it is necessary, since they will interfere with the installation of subsequent boards, the nails are hammered as much as possible with a doboynik.

What is it? These are a kind of metal plates, which include the presence of several holes for fastening, and a "tongue" that will actually hold the material. This is a fairly reliable fastening element, with which you can reliably, and most importantly, without leaving a trace, fasten almost any material.

They become the most acceptable for the installation of lining for several reasons:

• With the correct selection, you can quickly, easily, and most importantly fasten the lining without leaving a trace.
• Thanks to the manufacture of high-carbon steel, such an element can reliably fasten the structure, in due time it will withstand high humidity, temperature extremes, and any other influences.

And the next question arises, how to properly fasten the lining with clamps so that it lasts as long as possible? Everything is quite simple here, and does not require special preparation.

First you need to select the necessary elements. Usually, for a block house, clays with a tongue height of 6 millimeters are used, while for a standard euro lining - 4 mm. When buying, you should also take into account the consumption, usually it is 20-25 pcs. per square meter of lining.

Now let's consider the fastening process directly:

• The first board is fixed with nails as standard.
• Then the kleimer is put on the spike with a tongue, and then attached to the crate. Its fastening is carried out using nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. There are a total of three mounting holes, but only two are used.
• It is necessary to fasten it on each beam of the frame with two nails (or another fastening element, depending on the choice). Typically, such products are already included in the kit for the clays.
• Thus, each board is sequentially fixed.

Fastening the lining with a stapler

The latter type of fastening involves the use of a construction stapler. The method is simple and does not require a lot of effort, but nevertheless it requires a certain work experience, without which it will not be possible to fasten the lining.

But you can go the other way, and just carry out a series of workouts just before editing. Since the slightest inexperienced action can lead to significant surface defects, or deflection of the boards, which in turn will not only spoil the material and its appearance, but also its operational capabilities.

The installation itself is quite simple. The board is applied to the frame, after which a bracket is inserted into the groove, this is done strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. It should be noted that any incorrect execution will entail an inadequate introduction of the bracket, which in turn will interfere with the further installation of the next bar.

Conclusion

It should be noted that in order to obtain the required quality of finishing, the correct choice of fastening method should be made, since much depends on it. And the choice should be approached based on the requirements directly to the finished finish. The installation itself will not cause a lot of trouble, since it is quite quick and simple, which allows you to perform it yourself without additional help, or the involvement of specialists. You can find out a little more details by watching the video on how to fix the lining.