DIY submarines (13 photos). DIY submarine: making a rare type of military equipment with children How to make a working submarine

If you and your children love to craft, then especially for you we offer an excellent idea for children's creativity: to make a rare type of military equipment - a submarine quickly and easily with your own hands. Having learned how to make such a specialized vehicle, the children will be able to present them to dads and grandfathers on February 23. Or just play with such unusual and unique toys that cannot be found on the store shelves.

How to make a submarine with your own hands using origami technique

For those who like to fold paper using the origami technique, we suggest making a small submarine with a periscope and a propeller in the tail with your own hands. This submarine looks like a toy model. Collecting it is difficult, but possible. To do this, take a square sheet of colored paper and fold our model according to the scheme below.

I wish you success in studying the scheme and folding the submarine.

To create such a craft, we need the following materials:

3 cardboard sleeves (you can take from rolls of toilet paper or make yourself).
Napkins.
Cocktail straw.
Colored paper.
Glue.
Scissors.
Stationery knife.

Let's get to work.

We unfold the first sleeve, glue its front side with colored paper (in our case, we used orange).
We cut 3 holes in the first sleeve: two of them are smaller - at the same level, the third hole is larger, just below two. The third hole should be the same diameter as the hole in the second bushing.
We glue the second sleeve with blue paper. Cut out a round hole in the center that matches the diameter of the large hole in the first sleeve. To make the holes even, we use a clerical knife.
We insert the second (blue) sleeve into the first - orange. We combine large slots with each other. We have a submarine hull.
Next, into this large slot we insert the third sleeve, cut in half. This bushing will act as the boat's hatch. We fix with glue in the sleeve a straw for a cocktail - the periscope of our submarine.
We wrap napkins in a blue sheet of colored paper. We form two convolutions, the thickness of which coincides with the diameter of the boat hull. Cut out the tail of the submarine from orange paper and glue it to one of the bundles.
Insert the bundles into the hull of the submarine.

Our submarine is ready!

Let's analyze another option from a bottle and from plain paper

A very simple craft that can be made at any time from the following materials at hand:

Paper.
Plastic bottle.

We print the submarine on a piece of paper.

We glue photographs of family members into round windows, or draw little men - passengers of our submarine.

We insert this picture with photos or drawings into a plastic bottle.

Our boat is ready. We are sure that your child will like it. In addition, its advantage is that you can play with this boat in the water. Water procedures with such a unique toy will become even more fun.

Small children, especially boys, will like this craft. To create it, let's prepare:

Thick paper.
Scissors.
A ruler.
Markers or pencils.
Glue.

Working process:

We cut out a sheet of 12x15 cm from paper. We make two cuts on it, 4 cm each. One on top, the other in the middle of the sheet.
Draw a submarine and a water surface at the level of the lower cut.
We cut out a strip 3 cm wide and 4 cm longer than our sheet. Draw a periscope at the bottom. We glue a 5 cm long paper to the strip from below so that the periscope does not stretch out of the notch.
We pass the strip through the cuts. Pull the top end to raise the periscope.

Here is such an interesting craft for the little ones is ready.

Let's make a submarine with our own hands from firecrackers and scrap materials

What gift for the Defender of the Fatherland Day could be better than a do-it-yourself submarine model? Now we will tell you how you can make a model of a submarine from the simplest materials at hand.

For work we need:

Housing from a big firecracker.
A plastic ball that matches the diameter of the cracker.
Flat deodorant cap.
Cardboard.
1 preservation lid.
Matches.
Cotton buds.
Scissors.
Glue.
Awl.
Spray paint (black).

Working process:

We take the cracker. She will be the hull of our boat. Cut a hole in the middle of the cracker, into which we insert the deodorant cap. This will be the cabin of the boat.
We make a cardboard cone and glue it to the tail.
Cut out the rudders, bow and tail rudders of depth from cardboard.
We fix the steering wheels by gluing them to the body or inserting them into special slots for them.
Cut out the screw from the preservation cover with cutting scissors. We bend the propeller blades, make a hole in its center with an awl, and fix the propeller with a match to the tail.
We make the nose part - we stick the ball into the cracker body and fasten it tightly. We glue the bow rudders, slightly stepping back from the bow.
In the roof of the cabin we pierce 2 holes with a hot awl, insert the antenna and periscope, using the rod of a cotton swab.
We paint our boat using paint in a spray can.

Our submarine is ready! If desired, you can write the tail number using the corrector.

Buy a model in a store or do it yourself?

Have you decided to make a radio-controlled model with your own hands? Such an occupation will take quite a long time, and will also require a huge amount of patience from the master. Perhaps it's easier to buy a finished toy from a specialty store? They also provide a guarantee for the product. For a person who does not like to do something on his own and is not used to counting money, such a decision will seem quite justified. However, not everyone has the opportunity to spend several thousand on a model, the cost of which is a couple of hundred, because one of the most budgetary materials is usually used to model submarines - wood.

In addition, do not forget that during the manufacturing process you will experience a sea of \u200b\u200bunforgettable impressions, especially if you are doing this process for the first time. To create a work of art out of rough material is the lot of true masters who can cope with absolutely any task. Well, if you decide to make a model of a submarine with your own hands as a gift to another person, then you can be sure that the birthday person will remember this day for a long time and will keep your present with special care. Perhaps it will even become a family heirloom and will be passed down from generation to generation.

If your childhood fell on the nineties of the last century, then you probably remember that there were quite a few toys in the post-Soviet space. For any child, a radio-controlled car seemed a real treasure, since such a product could be found on sale only in large cities. On the other hand, DIY nabobs were sold almost everywhere, with the help of which it was possible to make models of airplanes, cars, motorcycles, ships, and so on. Just according to the instructions from one such set, we suggest our readers to make a model of a submarine.

List of required materials

Making a model of a submarine with your own hands is a rather long and painstaking process that will require a huge amount of patience from the master and skills in handling classic instruments. In addition, you will also need to stock up on some building materials that will make up the future model:

a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 3 millimeters and dimensions of 210x55 millimeters;
a rubber band at least 400 millimeters long (available at the pharmacy);
lead in the amount of 5 grams or a regular weight for a fishing rod;
tin from a tin can or other metal object;
waterproof paint (acrylic, oil or nitro enamel).

If you want to add some element to your model that is not taken into account by our instructions, then you should include several additional points in the list of materials in advance, so as not to be distracted in the process. By the way, all the necessary components that cannot be found at home are best purchased at a construction base (paint, plywood sheet, tin), since the prices for products there are much lower than in a regular hardware store.

What tools do you need for the job?

To make a model of a submarine or ship with your own hands, you will have to use some tools, without which it will not be possible to properly process the material. By the way, it is strongly discouraged to use alternative options for those tools that cannot be found on the farm, since the quality of the future model may suffer from this. It is best to borrow the missing items from a friend or buy them at the store. Here is a short list of the basic tools you might need in the process:

manual or electric jigsaw - for working with wood and plywood;
any waterproof glue - necessary for gluing wood;
pliers - for unbending a tin can;
brushes are irreplaceable for painting.

Of course, this list can be significantly expanded depending on the materials that you decide to use to make the submarine. For example, if you decide to attach a small RC motor to your model, you will need to use a lot of lead wires and insulation. Well, in the event that the master decides to make a 3D model of a submarine, then this will require even more different tools that will allow the base to be cut out of a full-fledged piece of wood.

Creation of blueprints for the submarine

Despite the fact that the model of the Akula submarine, the instructions for the creation of which you will find in the following sections, does not differ in complex details, it is worth leaving the drawings on a sheet of paper in advance so that you always have an image of the future model before your eyes. Remember that even the slightest mistake in the calculations can lead to the fact that the details, in the end, do not fit, and time will be wasted. The same applies if you decide to make a 3D model of a German submarine or any other submarine. A competent drawing is already half of a successful job.

By the way, it is recommended for a novice master to start with 2D models, since you do not need to have serious skills to make them. It will be enough to transfer the drawing to a sheet of plywood, and then carefully cut the workpiece with a jigsaw. If you have a printer, you can use the illustration above. Just print the drawing on a sheet of paper, then carefully cut out the base of the submarine with scissors and attach the resulting drawing to the plywood in order to trace it with a pencil. In this case, the bulk of the work will be practically done.

Workpiece machining and work with small parts

We begin to make a model of a submarine with our own hands from wood. As soon as the workpiece is cut according to the technology described in the previous section, it is necessary to carefully process the cuts, since they can be easily injured in case of careless handling. This can be done with medium grit sandpaper. All edges should be smoothed out especially well, as well as deburring.

If you pay attention to the drawing, you can see several slots in the model of the submarine. They are made so that the master can then insert steering blades into them, which are also cut out of a sheet of plywood and carefully processed with sandpaper. The steering wheel should be rubbed with great care to form a part with a rounded front. Thus, the submarine will look even more realistic.

It is necessary to glue the steering wheel using ordinary water-repellent glue. Be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging during this process! Remember that pressing force is important for joining two parts, not duration. It will be enough to properly fix the parts in one place and press them well together. After that, the glue will do the rest of the work.

What is the propeller shaft made of?

Any submarine must have propellers that ensure its movement at sea. Even if you make another model of the submarine - "Stars", for example - then this element must be present on the submarine without fail. It can be made from an ordinary drugstore harness, and attached with a pin, which has a ring-shaped needle at the end. A thread for the future rubber motor is passed through this very ring, and a propeller is attached to the opposite end. The easiest way to do this is with glue.

As for the hole for the shaft, you can make it with the help of hot iron. For example, you can heat the same pin to make the hole perfectly sized for the motor. However, do not rush, because any sailor knows that the sailing ability of the boat depends on the correct position of the propellers. Alternatively, you can use a conventional screwdriver or a drill with a fine drill for fastening.

It may happen that after burning or drilling, the stern of the submarine becomes weaker than its nose. To prevent breakage, it is recommended to additionally wrap the structure with strong threads dipped in water-repellent glue. Don't worry about giving the submarine an unnatural look as the model will be covered with several coats of paint.

Painting works

Have you decided to make a "Pike" - a radio-controlled model of a submarine with your own hands? Such a design will look quite solid, but you are unlikely to be able to convey its aesthetic appearance if you do not paint the tree with the correct paint. It is preferable to use acrylic paints for this purpose, since they dry quickly enough and repel water well. Although, if we are talking about a 2D model, and you have several tubes of oil paints lying around, you can use them as well. The advantage of quality formulations is that they are quite durable, so you do not have to re-paint the submarine every year.

As for the color of the paint, his choice is strictly individual. If you decide to make a model that will simply flaunt on a shelf with books, then it will be enough to paint the boat in classic black so that it is as close to its natural appearance as possible. However, if you want to make a model that will float on water, then it is best to paint it in some bright color so that the submarine is in front of your eyes all the time. It will also be very useful to saturate the structure before painting with hot linseed oil to give it durability.

When using acrylic paints, it is necessary to treat the entire surface with them, without leaving areas without paint. After polymerization, such a composition becomes impervious to water, so you can feel free to lower your model in water. You don't have to worry about the plywood getting wet and swollen, especially if you worked the corner pieces well with sandpaper before painting.

Making screws for the engine

To make a do-it-yourself radio-controlled model of a submarine, you will need to use high-quality material for the propellers, since the performance of your submarine will depend on this. As a material, ordinary tin is suitable, attached to the main part with three small washers, in front of which you can additionally put a small glass bead, which will act as a bearing. Thus, you can not only reduce friction, but also greatly facilitate the rotation of the shaft.

If you are making a model of a submarine for some important competition, or you simply don’t want to bother making a propeller, then you can purchase a finished engine in a specialized store. However, it is best to do this in advance, so that later there will be no problems with attaching the purchased element to the finished structure. Such engines differ among themselves not only in power, but also in appearance. But do not pay attention to the number of screws, since the running characteristics depend for the most part on their rotational speed.

Also, the driving performance of the submarine is affected by the angle at which the propellers of the engine are bent. A model with well-folded sheet metal will submerge in water in a matter of seconds, and will also develop its maximum speed rather quickly. Therefore, pay special attention to the manufacture of screws. But do not bend the blades too much (40 ° will be more than enough). In order to find the optimal propeller position, it is recommended to conduct several test runs and see in which case the boat sinks to depth faster. You can use a stopwatch for this.

Ballast installation

The last step in making a do-it-yourself radio-controlled model of a submarine is the installation of ballast. If you plan to place the submarine as an item for decorating your home, then you can skip this point, since the cargo is only needed to make the model sink faster under water. It is necessary to install ballast on a special keel bar, which can be found in the drawing we left earlier. As for lead, it is best to use it in the form of a plate measuring 12x22 millimeters, but the thickness should not exceed 1 millimeter, otherwise the mass of the submarine will be too large to keep it afloat.

The strip must be bent in the form of a bracket so that an even letter "P" is formed, after which it remains only to fasten the ballast to the keel rail, which is located approximately under the submarine's gun. By moving the weight, you can easily adjust the center of gravity of the submarine, forcing the stern or bow of the submarine to rise to the top. In order not to be mistaken with the location, it is recommended to conduct several test dives, securing the ballast with ordinary tape. Only after a well-chosen position can glue be used to firmly attach the lead to the boat.

Embedding a radio control sensor

If you want a wooden model of a submarine to be controlled by you from a long distance, then you will need to build a special radio transmitter into it, which can be removed from any old toy or purchased in a specialized store. The latter option is best for those. who is not particularly versed in the device of electronics or does not want to dig into the wires. It will be enough to simply attach the sensor to the left and right motors, and then test the course of the submarine on the water.

You can adjust the trajectory of the submarine by using the rotation intensity of the right and left engines. As a rule, there are two levers on the radio remote control, each of which is responsible for its own engine. If you slow down the right engine and speed up the left, the submarine will turn right. Therefore, for convenience, you should swap the contacts on the control panel, so as not to get confused in the process. If a joystick from an old typewriter was used, then first you have to figure it out a little in order to adjust the intensity of pressing a certain button under the force of rotation of a certain engine.

Installation of decorative elements

We pass to the decorative stage of making a model of a submarine with our own hands from wood. If you want your submarine to look as realistic as possible, then you will have to attach various small elements to it, which you can make yourself or purchase from a toy store. In the first case, it is best to use ordinary wood as a material, since it has a relatively low weight and lends itself well to processing. However, be extremely careful during work, because the smaller the part, the more difficult it is to make it. As for toys, they are usually made of plastic and are more durable than wood. However, only buy items that really fit your model in appearance and size.

So what can be attached to a submarine to give it a beautiful look? If you decide to make a model of a nuclear submarine, then you can purchase several stickers that will talk about a radioactive element on board the submarine. Also, several torpedoes can be attached to the submarine on the sides, which indicate the readiness of the submarine for battle. Well, if your model also has a deck for fighters in stock, then you can buy several beautiful toy airplanes and put them on the very top. Of course, all of the above can be made with your own hands. For example, the radiation icon can be easily painted with acrylic paint, and torpedoes can be carved out of wood.

It should be noted that the decorative elements attached to the model have a negative effect on its running characteristics, so their use is justified only if the submarine is planned to be placed on a stand in the future and used only as a decorative element for an apartment. However, if you really want to decorate your submarine, which will have to participate in various competitions, then do it wisely. First, do not hang up the ballast until all decorative elements have been installed, otherwise it will overload. Secondly, try to make all torpedoes, fighters and other decorative elements removable, as you risk losing them during a dive, even if they are firmly fixed.

Video clip and conclusion

As you can see, making a model of a submarine with your own hands is not such a difficult task as it seems at first glance. You should be patient and carefully study all possible options for the execution of this or that element, after which it will not be difficult to realize your dream. If you still have any questions about the progress of work or the information from our article did not seem enough for you, then we strongly recommend that you watch a short video in which the author shows in detail how to make the simplest model of a radio-controlled submarine from ordinary plastic bottles. For some masters, this action may seem ridiculous, but this guy has a lot to learn. For example, you can use the same engine system on a wooden submarine.

What do you think about what else you can use to make a radio-controlled model of a submarine with your own hands? Perhaps you have any thoughts on this that you would like to express? Share them with your readers. You may even be able to help one of the novice inventors to make their own submarine based on your idea. Isn't it nice to know that you have helped some stranger who is several thousand kilometers away from you?

We hope our article will help you make a model of a submarine with your own hands. It is best to use a good water repellent glue for bonding, as conventional formulations can lose their strength over time. However, if you do not plan to submerge the submarine under water, then everything is much easier. Let your imagination run wild and don't be afraid to experiment. Of course, it will hardly be possible to make an ideal sample for the first time, but you should not give up. Over time, you will become a true master of your craft and will manufacture submarines that have no equal.

There is a site dedicated to the work of William Wardrop called Stream Noir.
William assembles cardboard models on his own, using his own technology.

After decades of extensive research into history, military technology concepts, and classical literature, he applied his knowledge in modeling to create unique 3D examples of many types of innovative and eccentric vehicles from the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries.
This exhibit is a prime example of how Victorian-era steam-powered vehicles caught up with science fiction to create the technical wonders that changed civilization and pushed us into the modern age.

The Jules Verne Nautilus

This model was developed based on descriptions by Jules Verne and original illustrations for his 1870 novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Although this model looks less sleek than the Nautilus that Hollywood dreamed up, it is built in accordance with the first real submarines.

This image shows Professor Aronnex arguing with Captain Nemo about the fate of humanity.

Gustave Zede

Gustav Zed was a big step forward in the development of French submarines, but not very successful. She carried two torpedoes on drop rings, which made them vulnerable while the sub was docked. She also had poor depth control, and ultimately it took three sets of seaplanes to help this design error. Gustav Zed was 48.5 m (159 ft) long, 3 m (10 ft) in diameter and had a 208 horsepower engine.

The Pioneer

Built in Mobile Bay, C.L. Hunley prior to the construction of CSS Hunley, this vessel was a prototype and never used. Its armament was a mine, which was released behind the submarine and stretched on a cable until it found its target, from which it exploded. The main problem with this system was the ability to wind the cable around the screw.
The pioneer was captured by the Union Army in 1863 and displayed in the courtyard of the Washington Naval Department until it was sold for scrap in 1867.

The American Diver

Built by C.L. Hunley after Pioneer. An American diver, or Pioneer 2 as he is sometimes called, sank in Mobile Bay while being towed to launch an assault on the Union fleet. The crew of three was extremely small, and the submarine was not able to deal with the tide. Descriptions of this submarine appeared in newspapers in France, Jules Verne may have seen this description and incorporated many of the American Diver's unique attributes into the Nautilus, such as double deckhouses.

The Harper Golf Nautilus

Designed for Disney's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, the original model was designed by Harper Golf for a more Victorian feel, as well as individual elements that make it more like sea monsters. Although hydrodynamic tests proved the submarine to be reliable, a full-size working model was never built.
The giant squid attacking this Nymph model is over a meter (three feet) long and made entirely from Laura Butler's pipe cleaners.

The Alligator (Naval Institute Press Version)

This is a prime example of why you should always find as many references as you can before jumping in and building a model. The alligator shown here is what I saw in the book "American Submarines Before 1945" from the Naval Press Institute. I said, "Cool!" and went to work. It took 26 hours to build and paint the model. I was pleased with the result and chalked up another historic submarine for my collection. However, two days after I put the model on the rack, I read on a news site that Brutus de Villeroy's original plans were found in Paris, France. One glance was enough to realize that my model looked completely different from the original designs. It turns out that N.I.P.'s circuits are guesswork and have never been tested!

The Garrett Nordenfeldt 1886

Following the "success" of George William's Littler Garrett with the first steam-powered submarine Resurgam, in 1879 he was commissioned by the Turkish government to build two submarines in 1886. They were built and sent disassembled to Constantinople, where they were assembled. The first sank almost immediately after launch, and, oddly enough, no crew could be found for the submarines. They remained in dry dock until 1914, when they were blown up by the German army to avoid a threat to the safety of the population.

The Seal

Originally launched at the Virginia shipyard in 1911 as the Seal. This submarine was renamed G-1 when it was assigned to the U.S.N. in 1912. After a long journey as a test and training vessel, she was decommissioned in 1920 and later used for depth charge tests in 1921.

Welman is a World War II submarine, operated by two people, powered by a gasoline engine that lacked proper ventilation and caused many deaths due to carbon monoxide poisoning. The torpedoes were too small to be a real threat to warships of the era, and had a limited range. The submarine featured a double hatch and overall design, which had a significant impact on the development of submarines of that period.

Dupuy de Lome

Named after the famous architect of armored warships, the French submarine was launched in 1915 and scrapped in 1935.

Ictineo II (Greek for fishing boat)

In 1864, in the harbor of Barcelona, \u200b\u200bNarcis Monturiol launched Ictineo II: the world's first real submarine. She was over 17 meters long, with a displacement of 72 tons and had a working depth of up to 30 meters. What made this sub so extraordinary was its chemical-based steam engine. The engine needed fuel rods, very similar to the uranium rods in a reactor, but using a chemical reaction to heat the water in a boiler, while at the same time the reaction produced pure oxygen for the crew! The hull was made of olive wood to reduce the cost of the prototype, but an all-metal boat, the Ictineo III, was also planned. The time spent under water, without a lack of oxygen, was 8 hours! The only limitation was the number of fuel rods. The Ictineo III could have taken submarine technology to the next level, but Monteraiola's funding ran out and his sub was broken and sold for scrap.

The large diesel-electric submarine B-396 "Novosibirsk Komsomolets" of project 641B (code "Som", according to NATO classification - Tango) belongs to the 2nd generation boats, designed at TsKB-18, now TsKB MT "Rubin", chief designer project - Z.A. Deribin, since 1974 - Yu.N. Kormilitsyn.
The submarine was laid down in 1979 in Nizhny Novgorod (at that time - the city of Gorky) at the Krasnoye Sormovo shipyard.

From 1980 to 1998, the submarine carried out combat service as part of the Northern Fleet squadron, carried out missions in the Atlantic Ocean off the western coast of Africa, in the Mediterranean Sea, and carried out combat patrols to protect the state border in the Barents Sea.
In 1998, the B-396 submarine was decommissioned and withdrawn from the Russian Navy. On October 20, 2000 from the city of Polyarny it was delivered to the city of Severodvinsk to the Severnoye Machine-Building Enterprise, in April 2001 it was lifted onto a slipway and then transferred to the workshop for re-equipment into a museum.
On July 4, 2003, the submarine-museum was launched in a solemn atmosphere. At the end of August, the ship set off for its last passage on the Severodvinsk-Moscow route. Having passed the White Sea, the White Sea-Baltic Canal, Lake Onega, the Volga-Baltic Canal, the Rybinsk Reservoir, the Moscow Canal, the submarine arrived in Moscow.
Now the place of her permanent stay is the Museum-Memorial Complex of the History of the Russian Navy, located on the Khimki reservoir in the Severnoye Tushino park.
The entrance to the submarine in the museum version is carried out from the starboard side through a specially equipped vestibule.

Before the conversion, the crew entered through the hatch.

The first compartment contains 533 mm bow torpedo tubes. The torpedo propeller is visible on the right, torpedoes on the left before loading into the torpedo tube.

If necessary, the crew could leave the submarine through torpedo tubes that served as airlock chambers. To carry out work overboard or emergency ascent on board, there were sets of equipment for the SSP-K1 submariner, consisting of an isolating breathing apparatus (rebreather) IDA-59 and an SGP-K diving suit, in addition, to ensure ascent from great depths (up to 220 m) to the set included a cylinder of the DHB with helium (in the composition of breathing mixtures for deep-sea diving, the air is replaced with a helium-oxygen mixture, which makes it possible to avoid nitrogen intoxication and reduce the risk of decompression sickness).

There are changes in the interior of the submarine, in particular, openings in the sealed bulkheads between the compartments of the boat are equipped for the smooth movement of visitors. During the period of military service, the crew members moved between the compartments through the hatches.

Officer's cabin.

The submarine commander's cabin.

Doctor's cabin.

Insulator.

Central post.

Navigator's cabin.

Radio room.

Galley. Soviet submariners at sea were supposed to have three meals a day: breakfast (also called morning tea), lunch and dinner. The first meal of the day was the lightest of all. The essential elements of breakfast were tea with sugar and white bread with butter. The second meal a day was the most abundant. The traditional first course was naval borsch with fresh cabbage, and soups were also prepared - bean, potato and rice. The second courses consisted of various canned meat with rice, buckwheat porridge, beans or mashed potatoes. The third course was naval compote, which was sometimes replaced with cocoa or jelly. On an autonomous voyage, dry red wine, as a rule, from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape variety, 50 ml for each crew member, was served without fail for lunch. For dinner, as a rule, there were boiled or fried potatoes, buckwheat porridge, beans with pickled herring, canned fish or meat, cocoa with cookies.

Kubrick is equipped in the aft compartment. In their free time, the sailors could watch a movie.

The submarine is installed on an underwater hydrotechnical base, the ship is raised 4 meters, which made the propeller-rudder complex open for observation.

The submarine carries the jack of the Russian Navy.

Scheme of the underwater lock of project 641B

1 - the main antenna of the SJSC "Rubicon",
2 - antennas of SJSC "Rubicon",
3 - 533 mm TA,
4 - bow horizontal rudder with a dumping mechanism and drives,
5 - bow emergency buoy,
6 - cylinders of the VVD system,
7 - bow compartment (torpedo),
8 - spare torpedoes with a quick loader,
9 - torpedo loading and bow hatches,
10 - modular enclosure of SJSC "Rubicon",
11- second (bow and battery) compartment,
12 - living quarters,
13 - nasal (first and second) AB group;
14 - partition of battery machines,
15 - running bridge,
16 - gyrocompass repeater,
17 - attack periscope,
18 - periscope PZNG-8M,
19 - PMU device RDP,
20 - PMU antenna of the radar "Cascade",
21 - PMU antenna of the direction finder "Frame",
22 - PMU antenna SORS MRP-25,
23 - PMU antenna "Topol",
24 - conning tower,
25 - the third (central post) compartment,
26 - central post,
27 - REV modular partitions,
28 - enclosures for auxiliary equipment and general ship systems (bilge pumps, general ship hydraulics pumps, converters and air conditioners),
29 - the fourth (aft living and battery) compartment,
30 - living quarters,
31 - aft (third and fourth) group AB,
32 - fifth (diesel) compartment,
33 - auxiliary mechanisms,
34 - DD,
35 - fuel and fuel and ballast tanks,
36 - sixth (electromotor) compartment,
37 - electrical panels,
38 - GGED shaft centerline,
39 - aft anchor spire,
40 - seventh (aft) compartment,
41 - aft hatch,
42 - GED economic course,
43 - the middle line of the shaft,
44 - aft emergency buoy,
45 - drives of aft rudders.