Connections for copper pipes. Copper, brass pipe, fitting

Many, in my opinion, mistakenly believe that copper pipes are quite expensive when installing water supply or heating a house, and some, and that the age of copper for these purposes is in the past. In this post, we will try to prove to you that this is not so, precisely because copper is a fairly convenient material for the installation of any structures, and if you take its durability into account, it is indispensable in many cases and it is she who will be chosen by a zealous owner for his own home.

If we compare copper with other materials from which water and other communication pipes are made (for example, with plastic or), then its advantages are obvious. First of all, this is an unusually long service life: copper pipes and fittings often last as long as the building itself.

Copper is very plastic, which increases the safety of the water supply system and retains its properties over a wide temperature range (from -200 to +250 ° C), which makes the pipes resistant to freezing when filled with water.

Copper pipes are resistant to ultraviolet radiation (unlike plastic ones), have a low roughness coefficient, which allows them to be used in similar conditions

Copper piping is practically unaffected by various types of viruses and bacteria, it is not afraid of oils, fats and various harmful substances. Even chlorine, which is inevitable for our water pipelines, is not able to destroy a copper pipe, but, on the contrary, due to the formation of an oxide layer on its inner walls, chlorine contributes to the extension of the pipe's service life.

Pipes

Round copper water pipes are produced both in coils (25 and 50 m long) and in segments (rods of various lengths). The most commonly used pipes have diameters from 8 to 28 mm with a wall thickness of 1 mm. It is worth emphasizing that copper pipes are much lighter than steel ones due to their thin walls. They can be insulated.

Installation of copper pipes does not cause any particular difficulties, mainly due to the fact that they are well cut and bend. Copper pipes can be connected in two ways: detachable and one-piece. The second includes soldering, welding, and pressure testing.

Various fittings are used to connect pipes, connect to fittings, to an existing water supply system.

Fitting

There are many varieties of connection and transition fittings. Some examples are shown in Photos 1-12. So, for soldering, not only ordinary and transitional couplings are used, but also various elbows, tees, crosses, contours, rolls and plugs. There are fittings with the transition of a soldered connection to a threaded one, for example, "American" with a cone seal (15 × 1/2 "). Threaded press fittings often use a ferrule, which, when the union nut is tightened, compresses the pipe, thereby sealing the connection.

Brazing copper pipes

Soldering is carried out by adhesion between molten copper-phosphorus or silver solders and the heated pipes to be joined. The solder is distributed at the junction under the action of capillary forces, "wetting" the base metal. To improve the quality of soldering and increase the adhesion coefficient, special fluxes are used, and the surfaces for soldering are pre-cleaned. When brazing, the parts to be joined must be uniformly heated to the required temperature.

Therefore, when brazing, the type of burner flame is important, which indicates the balance of the gas mixture. A decreasing burner flame indicates an excess amount of fuel in the mixture that exceeds the oxygen content. A supersaturated gas mixture, due to excess oxygen, forms a flame that oxidizes the metal surface. A sign of this phenomenon is a black coating on the metal. The balanced gas mixture during combustion forms a flame that heats the metal without any other effect.

When working on brazing copper pipes, also note that:

  • The application of the flux promotes the adhesion of the solder to the metal.
  • The soldering point is pre-tinned.
  • For high-quality soldering, the necessary heating of the parts to be soldered is required.
  • For brazing copper pipes, the connection must be stripped.

Copper Soldering Tools

For copper soldering, special soldering irons and gas torches are used.

When working with copper pipes, in addition to soldering and crimping, they have to be cut, bent, expanded, and flanged. Bending of pipes in order to avoid kinking and flattening is performed using a lever pipe bender. Moreover, for pipes with a diameter of up to 15 mm, the bending radius must be at least 3.5 diameters. For pipes of large diameters, the bend radius must be at least 4 diameters. You can also cut pipes with a hacksaw for metal, but it is best with a pipe cutter, which allows you to do this exactly at the mark and without distortions. After each revolution, the cutter wheel must be tightened by tightening the set screw. Any burrs that appear during the cutting process must be removed.

To ensure the insertion of the pipe into the pipe, special expander pliers and mandrels are used.

How to bend copper pipes correctly

In the photo above, the numbers indicate

  1. The pipe is inserted and fixed in the grip of the pipe bender at the beginning of the bend.
  2. Applying force, gradually turn the movable handle of the lever pipe bender, bending the pipe around the mandrel.
  3. You can also bend the pipe using a spring with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the pipe.

Flaring pipes

In the photo below, the numbers indicate

To connect pipes with fittings with union nuts (especially when repairing connections), flaring has to be done.

  1. If necessary, remove the union nut by cutting off the flared end of the pipe.
  2. You can cut the flare with a roller pipe cutter by sliding the nut along the pipe.
  3. To restore flaring, the pipe is clamped in a die so that the end of the pipe protrudes about 1 mm above the die surface.
  4. By tightening the screw of the fixture, the end of the pipe is deformed to form a conical expansion.
  5. After removing the screw clamp, check the funnel-shaped flare, which must have the correct shape.
  6. The end of the pipe can be flattened with light hammer blows by re-clamping the pipe in the die.
  7. A smooth and even flaring surface can be obtained with a velvet file.
  8. It remains to put the sealing gasket, and the pipe can be connected.
  9. If necessary, flaring can be done on fittings, for example, couplings, elbows.

How to expand a copper tube

To connect pipes by soldering without using connecting fittings, the end of one pipe can be expanded using special pliers.

Having inserted the pipe into pliers with a head of the required diameter, force is applied to the handles of the pliers, expanding the end of the pipe.

After expansion of the pipe, a mandrel-caliber is inserted into the pipe and, with light hammer blows on the mandrel, the diameter of the expansion is brought to the required expansion with the help of special pliers.

How to cut copper pipes with a pipe cutter:

The pipe is placed between the jaws of the pipe cutter and the cutting roller is pressed with a set screw.

Having made one or two turns around the pipe with the pipe cutter, the roller is tightened with a screw and the pipe cutter is turned again.

A flip-down knife removes burrs from the inside of the pipe.

Continue cutting the pipe until the cut off part of the pipe can be separated by hand.

Typical types of copper pipe connections

When performing installation work, for example, a water supply system using copper pipes, it is necessary to provide connections, make bends, contours, and install plumbing fixtures.

In the photo, the types of "copper" connections

  1. Flexible hose connection.
  2. Connection of pipes of different diameters by brazing using a straight coupling.
  3. The branch is made using a tee and a single-socket bypass.
  4. Wall-mounted elbow with valve allows flexible hose connection.
  5. Widened flared bypass.
  6. Insert ball valve, connected with union nuts.
Also read on the topic:

Plumbing option using copper components

In order to optimize the water supply system, equalize the pressure in the system, reduce additional loads on the pump and the cost of the system, the diameters of copper pipes are selected depending on the water flow rate at each point of consumption. Usually, at a flow rate of up to 50 l / min, pipes with a diameter of 10 mm are used, at a flow rate of up to 160 l / min - pipes with a cross section of 16 mm, at a flow rate of 250 l / min - pipes with a cross section of 20 mm. Plumbing option and copper pipe diameters are shown in the figure.

For pipes of different diameters, threaded fittings of the corresponding size are usually used. For example, 15 × 22 mm wrench fittings can be used for soldering with pipes with a cross section of 10-18 mm (table).

FittingPipe diameter, mm
12 × 188 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
15 × 228 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
20 × 288 10 12 14 16 18 20 22

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Even with the fact that polymer pipes are used more and more often, metal products are still enjoying considerable success. Typically, copper, brass and steel are used as metal. Copper is better in terms of resistance to corrosion and high temperatures. Actually, about the connection of copper pipes, and will be discussed in this article.

Even despite the fact that copper pipes are distinguished by their high cost, taking into account all the characteristics of the material, their use is quite justified.

First of all, before connecting copper pipes, it is worth deciding how to connect them, by soldering or in another way.

Soldering pipes

Consider the connection of copper pipes with fittings followed by soldering, which can be low and high temperature. In the first method, soldering is carried out at a temperature of 300 ºC. The second method is used when arranging systems with high loads for industrial purposes.

Couplings act as connectors for copper pipes; tin-lead solder and flux are additionally needed.


The pipe brazing technology will be as follows:

  • First of all, a pipe of a certain size is cut. This process must be carried out carefully, taking into account the dimensions of the existing fittings.
  • The pipe ends should be inspected - there should be no defects such as chips, cracks or burrs. If they are not eliminated, there will be problems with the tightness of the connection after all the work has been completed.
  • After making sure that the ends are clean, you can start the connection. Due to the fact that several pipes will be connected, and they can be with different sections, then the fittings should be selected accordingly.
  • Further, the end of the pipe and the inner walls of the couplings should be treated with flux, which will degrease the surfaces to obtain the highest quality connection.
  • Now the end of the pipe is threaded into the copper pipe connector and heated. It must be selected so that the cross-section is 1-1.5 cm larger than the cross-section of the pipe. The pipes are heated with a gas burner. The gap between the pipe and the coupling is filled with molten solder. Nowadays, you can find any type of solder on the market to suit your needs, so there shouldn't be any problems with the choice.
  • After evenly distributing the solder around the circumference, the parts to be joined must be left until it is completely solidified.
  • At the final stage, you need to check the connectors for copper pipes and the entire system by running water into it. At this moment, not only the system will be checked, but it will also be cleaned from the remains of the flux, which over time can cause metal corrosion.

Tight joining of copper pipes without soldering

In addition, it should be noted that, despite the fact that the connection of pipes by soldering is considered the most reliable method in most cases, there are still situations when it is not possible to use this method. In such cases, you can resort to joining copper pipes without soldering. Special fittings will be required to ensure a secure connection due to the clamping effect that occurs when threaded connections.

In this case, the connection is made in the following sequence:

  • First, the fittings are disconnected, which often have two component parts.
  • One of the elements is put on the pipe. Typically this is a nut and clamping ring.
  • Next, a pipe is threaded into the fitting and the nut is tightened.


Typically, such fittings are completed with detailed instructions, which must be followed without fail, otherwise the work performed will be of poor quality.

It is worth noting that before connecting copper pipes without soldering, it is worth realizing all the risks, since it is rather difficult to obtain a high-quality connection. Minimal distortions of the parts to be connected are not allowed at all, otherwise the technology is grossly violated. In order for the threaded connection to be extremely tight, it is advisable to additionally seal it with special threads. In this case, it is worth making sure that they do not end up on the inside of the pipe, since subsequently the water may not pass through the system properly.

Mandatory connection rules

For any type of connection, the list of work performed will look like this:

  • The pipes to be connected must be made of the same metal. In case you are going to connect a copper pipe to a pipe made of any other material, you must decide on the desired connection method. For example, the soldering method cannot be used for joining copper and polyvinyl chloride pipes.
  • When connecting a copper pipe to a steel pipe, the copper pipe should be placed after the steel pipe.
  • Be extremely careful when tightening the threaded joint, especially if you have thin-walled pipes.
  • To correctly determine the amount of required solder, a piece of wire must have the circumference of the pipe to be brazed.
  • A special burner is best suited for heating pipes. You can, of course, use a simple blowtorch, but in this case you need to be prepared that the joint will overheat, and the whole workflow will become somewhat complicated.
  • It is no secret that copper pipes are a rather expensive material. In this regard, even before the work is carried out, it will not be superfluous to carry out preliminary calculations of the amount of required material. However, remember that all connecting parts also have their own dimensions, so they must be taken into account.


In conclusion, it will not be superfluous to note that the connection of copper pipes is technologically a process of medium complexity. If you are engaged in such work for the first time, then you need to be prepared for the fact that some nuances may arise. To understand the process, and get as much of an idea as possible about it, it will not be superfluous to get advice from professional workers, or, at least, to familiarize yourself with the available video materials.

Pipe fittings are used to connect pipes of a wide variety of diameters and sizes. Certain types of fittings are required to bend the pipeline, such as T and Y fittings, as well as bends.

Main types of fittings

Straight fittings have components such as plugs, adapters, and couplings. Examples of fittings are shown in the figure below. How each fitting is made depends on the material used to make it.

Examples of steel, copper and plastic fittings

  1. Copper fittings, both threaded and non-threaded:
  2. T-piece.
  3. End sleeve with 90 degree rotation.
  4. Y-shaped tee.
  5. Couplings.
  6. Adapter.
  7. Copper and plastic fittings:
  8. Female thread fitting.
  9. Fitting rotated 90 degrees.
  10. T-piece.
  11. Y-shaped tee.
  12. Adapter.
  13. Coupling.
  14. Steel fittings:
  15. Internal plug.
  16. Threaded options.
  17. Cover with a plug.
  18. Rush.
  19. Fitting option.

Photos of fittings from a variety of materials

And now a small photo gallery showing the impressive variety of all kinds of fittings that are presented on our market.

Steel chrome fittings


Copper fittings


Plastic fittings (PVC)

Coupling, adapter and squeegee

The coupling is required to combine two pipe sections with the same diameters into one line. If the pipes have different diameters, you will need adapter... Used frequently squeeze is an externally threaded steel tube that is usually available in small lengths up to 30 cm in length.

Squeezing is necessary to increase the length of the pipeline and connect pipe sections, which can be disconnected at any time. A plug is needed to block the end of the pipe. If pipes made of different materials are combined, then specialized fittings are needed to connect them, some of which are shown in the figure below.

Variety of fittings for connecting pipes made of different materials

  1. Fitting for connecting copper pipe to steel:
  2. Thread for screwing on a metal pipe.
  3. Copper pipe, soldered to another copper pipe.
  4. Copper fitting, connects to copper pipe.
  5. End for screwing into nut.
  6. Rubber gasket.
  7. The plastic part is inserted into the nut.
  8. Copper pipe.
  9. Fitting, soldered.
  10. Fitting for connecting plastic pipe to copper:
  11. Steel pipe, screwed into a nut.
  12. End for screwing into a nut.
  13. Rubber gasket.
  14. Plastic pipe, glued into the insert in the nut.
  15. Fittings for connecting plastic pipes to steel.
  16. Plastic insert.
  17. Nut.

Pipe connections made of various materials

How is a steel pipe connected to a copper pipe? For this, a fitting is used, at one end of which there is a thread for fixing to a steel pipe. There is no thread on the other end, it is completely smooth as the copper pipe will be brazed.

When installing a pipe into such a fitting, the threads should be wrapped with a sealing tape made of plastic, after which the coupling is screwed onto the pipe. Such a sealing tape is necessary so that corrosion does not begin in the joint zone of the two types of metal.

Steel and plastic fitting

Another example is a steel and plastic fitting. It is also made in two parts. The first part looks like a nut with a threaded segment that is screwed into a steel pipe. The other part is plastic, with a gasket and a nut also made of plastic.

Standard fitting made of steel and plastic

The nut is screwed onto another extension of the first part that has an external thread. Further, a special solvent is used to fix the plastic insert with the plastic pipe.

Plastic and copper fitting

There is also a popular plastic and copper fitting that also includes two components. The first component has two ends. One is made of copper and has a thread, but the other end is completely smooth - it is he who is attached to the copper pipe by soldering.

Plastic fitting with copper thread

Another component is a plastic nut with a spacer. The nut is screwed onto the copper thread, and the other end is glued to the plastic pipe.

Fittings for copper and plastic pipes

Soldering is used to connect copper pipes, but plastic pipes are connected with specialized glue or solvent. As for cast-iron risers, bushings are usually not used to connect pipes.

Standard Method for Joining Fittings and Cast Iron Pipes without Bushing

  1. Cast iron pipe.
  2. Stainless steel casing.
  3. Clamp.
  4. Part of neoprene rubber.
  5. Cast iron T-piece.

To seal the joints of sewer pipes, sleeves made of neoprene rubber are used. In this case, the sleeve itself is fixed with a casing made of stainless steel.

The following illustration shows options for some pipe connections without bushings.

Standard fittings for joining cast iron pipes without sleeves

  1. T-piece.
  2. Curved segment.
  3. Curved segment with flange for toilet.
  4. Y-shaped tee.

Conventional casings are used to mount the casing directly.

Video review of fittings for polypropylene pipes

Consider the use of special fittings for plastic polypropylene pipes. Types of fittings, their purpose and characteristics.

Materials from which pipes are made

For the manufacture of sewer pipes, materials such as plastic, cast iron and copper are used. In the construction of underground collectors located outside the building, glazed ceramic pipes are usually used.

However, it is not uncommon for a specific area to only permit the use of a specific type of pipe. You can find out from local authorities.

The ideal pipe for sewage is cast iron pipe... It is perfect for the creation of collectors, sewer pipes, sun loungers and ventilation. Any cast iron pipes are of two types - internal and heavy. The length of a standard cast iron pipe is 1.5 meters.

Cast iron pipe for toilet

Copper pipeswith a yellow label can also be used for any type of sewer line.

It is worth mentioning separately ceramic pipes, covering with a special glaze. Such pipes are reliably protected from the influence of sewage waste, be it various alkalis or acids.

Typically, ceramic pipes are used as the base of a house's underground collector, up to 1.5 meters from the foundation. Pipes are laid up to a city collector or a settling tank.

It is not recommended to use ceramic pipes inside the house.

Both inside and outside the house are actively used pVC and ABS pipes... The connection of copper and plastic pipes is carried out in the same way as for water pipes. A detailed overview of each type of pipe will be presented in the following articles.

During plumbing work, as well as when laying sewer pipes for a house, it is often necessary to connect various segments made of copper pipes. It is about this difficult procedure that we will talk about further.

Cutting a copper pipe with a torch

Initially, it is necessary to cut the pipes to the desired size, for which the special tool shown in the following figure is used.

How to cut a rigid copper pipe. The cut is made with a special tool, the clamp of which must be tightened tightly, and then the rotation around the pipe, repeating it, until the pipe is cut.

  1. Pipe cutter wheel.
  2. Pipe cutter.
  3. Pipe cutter idler.
  4. Copper pipe.
  5. Rotating side of the screw.
  6. The handle that rotates to tighten the pipe torch clamp.

The principle of cutting a pipe is very simple. The cutter is put on the desired end of the pipe and moved to the place where the cut will be located. The clamp of the torch must fit snugly against the pipe by tightening the screw (clamp). Next, you need to start rotating the cutter around the pipe, gradually tightening the screw, and so on until the pipe is cut.

Classic use of a copper pipe cutting tool

Of course, you can use a hacksaw to cut the copper pipe, but with this cut, the edges of the pipe will be too uneven and will have to be smoothed separately.

The pipe has been cut, now you can start grinding the edges.

Finishing the edges of a copper pipe after cutting

First of all, the edges of the pipes should be cleaned, removing all possible irregularities. For this, a file or a semicircular file is usually used.

Carefully remove any imperfections left after the cut from the pipe edge. To do this, you need a file or a rounded file.

  1. Copper pipe.
  2. Irregularities and seizures after cutting the pipe.
  3. A file or a semicircular file.

Grinding pipe edges

Now we take a thin sandpaper and start sanding the outer surface of the edge. Polish it until it shines. Next, the inner plane of the pipe is processed right at the edges. For this, as a rule, you can purchase special brushes at your nearest hardware store.

Sanding the edges of a copper pipe with sandpaper is not at all difficult

Do not overdo the pipe surface cleaning - if you remove too much material, then there will be problems with subsequent soldering.

The edges of the pipe, both outside and inside, must be carefully cleaned with a thin sandpaper.

  1. Copper pipe.
  2. Sandpaper (thin).
  3. Press lightly to sand the pipe edge.
  4. Pipe edge stripping.
  5. Copper tee.
  6. Fine sandpaper.
  7. Cleaning the inside of the edge.
  8. Run the sandpaper along the inside of the pipe.

Flux application

Next, we need a brush, with which a thin layer of flux is applied both inside and outside the pipe. Since flux is a reactive etchant, use it carefully to avoid possible pipe corrosion.

It is advisable to use a brush to apply a layer of flux. Do not try to do it with your fingers - the flux is very poisonous and harmful not only to the fingers, but also to the eyes.

  1. Copper pipe.
  2. Copper tee.

Apply flux to copper pipe with a brush

Insert the pipe into the fitting as tightly as possible. Rotate this fitting to spread the flux evenly. If any drops remain outside the pipe, remove them.

When the edges of the pipe are greased with flux, slide the fitting over the pipe and rotate it so that it is more evenly distributed throughout the pipe. Be sure to remove the remaining flux that has leaked out.

  1. Copper tee.
  2. Insert the pipe into the fitting.
  3. Rotate the pipe to distribute the flux over the fitting.
  4. Wipe off any remaining flux.
  5. Copper pipe.

Welding pipe joints with a torch

We start working with the burner. Light it and bring the burner fire to the edge of the pipe joint. Heat the end of the fitting and fire a flame over its surface.

Both the pipe and the fitting must be heated with a torch to the temperature at which the solder begins to melt.

  1. Heat part of the pipe.
  2. Heat the side of the fitting.

Copper pipe joint treatment with propane torch

Solder distribution

When the joint is hot enough and the solder begins to melt, touch the end of the solder to the point where the fitting and the pipe join. Walk around this junction in a circular motion. After the entire edge is covered with solder, and you are sure that there are no gaps left, you need to wait until the joint has cooled. Also note that the burner flame must be touching the pipe when applying the solder.

The end of the solder must be attached to in addition to the fitting and held with fire along the joint. The solder will then melt and go straight into the gap between the pipe and fitting. Preheat the fitting throughout the entire process to maintain the melting temperature of the solder.

  1. Copper fitting.
  2. Hold the propane torch against the fitting.
  3. Copper pipe.
  4. Place the solder on the joint and spread it along the edge.
  5. Solder.

Using solder to weld copper pipe

How does the solder get directly into the space between the pipe and the fitting, will it not remain outside? In fact, the solder will enter the gap due to the action of capillary forces, and it can flow both vertically and horizontally. This process is clearly illustrated in the following figure.

The mechanism of action of capillary forces on the solder.

  1. Copper fitting.
  2. Copper pipe.
  3. Solder that gets into the gap between the pipes due to capillary suction.
  4. The solder solidifies and forms a protective layer that spreads over the edge of the joint.
  5. How the solder is distributed.
  6. Straightened solder.
  7. The cooled solder takes on a pasty form.

To select a solder, you need to be guided by the pressure of the liquid in the pipeline being laid, as well as the melting point of the solder. According to existing standards, in fluxes and solders intended for sewer systems, the concentration of lead should not exceed 0.2%.

How to connect soft copper pipes

It is not for nothing that a soft copper pipe is called that way - it is not difficult to bend it with your hands. However, there is a high risk that the pipe will be bent incorrectly. Therefore, we strongly recommend using a pipe bender.

If the pipe is too kinked, the water will not be able to fully pass through the kinked zone, not to mention the appearance of cracks. If a bend of a sufficiently large radius is required, then the flexible shell of an ordinary water supply hose made of a spring is perfect as a pipe bender. It is only necessary that this shell corresponds to the diameter of the copper pipe.

If you need to bend a long soft copper pipe, you can use the spring jacket of a regular hose. Bend the pipe carefully, without applying too much force. Then, simply by rotating, remove the pipe.

  1. Spring-loaded protective shell.
  2. Soft copper tube.

To bend the pipe, you can gently push it down with your knee. Moreover, the larger the bending radius of the pipe, the less likely it is that the pipe will be too bent.

The simplest method of bending soft copper pipe: using a regular steel corrugated hose and a plastic bottle

If you need to bend the pipe within a smaller radius, then you cannot do without a manual pipe bender. Rotate the handles 180 degrees before inserting the pipe into this tool.

When the pipe is inserted, you need to raise one handle so that it forms a right angle with the other handle. It is difficult to make a mistake here, since there is a corresponding mark on the pipe bender roller, which must be aligned with the bending point.

Pipe bender application video

This video demonstrates how to properly use a pipe bender in order to bend copper pipes intended for sewage or air conditioning systems.

Using a pipe bender

Now just push the bender handles together until you get exactly the bend you want. Before bending the pipe, make sure that the bender fully matches its diameter.

The Lever Pipe Bender is the ideal tool for bending copper pipe. In this case, the minimum bending radius depends on which pipe diameter you are bending.

  1. Copper pipe.
  2. Copper pipe.
  3. Turn the knob until the pipe is bent to the desired angle.
  4. Turn the handles 180 degrees and insert the pipe into the bender.
  5. Copper pipe.
  6. Pipe bender roller.
  7. Copper pipe.

Classic lever tube bender for bending copper (and not only) pipes

Flare connection of copper pipe

To connect a soft copper pipe, a coupling is often used, into which the previously flared end of the pipe is embedded. A joint of this type has many advantages, in particular, it is quite easy to dismantle it if necessary and fix it again.

Usually, a flared joint is used when it is impossible to use a propane burner, or if it is impossible to drain the water from the old pipe. To fasten the coupling, it is enough to put it on the pipe, after which you need to flare the end of the pipe using the appropriate tool.

The photo shows a flare and clamp with a set of calibration holes. All this together are the tools for the correct flaring of a copper pipe.

Flaring process

The flaring of a copper pipe is as follows.

  1. First, you need to clean the end of the pipe.
  2. A sleeve is put on the pipe.
  3. The pipe is inserted into the calibration hole and then clamped. Of course, the pipe diameter must match the hole diameter. In this case, the end of the pipe must be installed flush or slightly higher than the clamping plane.
  4. A corresponding device is put on the clamp, after which the screw should be rotated. Ultimately, the pipe end should be flared at an angle that is 45 degrees on average.

The end of the pipe should be clamped in the calibrated hole. The flaring tool is then moved onto the clamp and the cone is inserted into the pipe. Flaring is done by turning the screw.

  1. Flaring tool.
  2. Flaring cone.
  3. Calibration holes.
  4. Clamp.
  5. Copper pipe.

The pipe is removed from the calibrated hole, after which the coupling is brought close to the previously flared edges.

A coupling is used to connect the flared ends of copper pipes.

  1. Connecting component for flaring coupling.
  2. The tapered end of the component is inserted into the flared part of the pipe.
  3. Nut component of the coupling.
  4. Flared pipe edges.
  5. Copper pipe.

Standard Coupling for Copper Pipe

To wrap around the threads of the coupling, use a sealing tape and then tighten the appropriate nut tightly. The clutch is now fully assembled and we can admire it in the next picture.

The assembled clutch looks like this.

  1. Flaring nut.
  2. The central component of the clutch.
  3. Flare nut.
  4. Flared copper pipe.

Sometimes copper pipes are cut at the factory with an allowance of 2-2.5 cm. This is done so that in case of unsuccessful flaring, the end of the pipe could be cut off and flaring done again.

Copper pipe flaring video

Do-it-yourself visual self-instruction manual for expanding copper pipes. You can see for yourself - there is nothing complicated in this process.

Sleeve with gasket

To connect a copper pipe with taps and valves, an element such as sleeve with gasket .

In fact, this is a regular nut with a gasket. In this case, the fitting that is connected to the coupling must have a thread corresponding to the thread of this nut.

This coupling has a special fixing gasket, which fits exactly into the nut with an internal thread, and then is inserted into the hole of the valve, which, in turn, has an external thread.

  1. Copper pipe.
  2. Nut.
  3. Sealing gasket.
  4. Coupling for connection with gasket.
  5. Connection to another pipe.
  6. Valve or fitting.

It is not difficult to install such a coupling. Initially, a nut is put on the pipe, then a sealing gasket.

Typical Gasket Coupling for Copper Pipe

Next, the pipe is inserted into the fitting, it must be exactly perpendicular to the fitting hole. This is a very important point, because if the pipe is installed into the fitting even at a slight angle, then leakage is almost inevitable.

The gasket is now pressed against the fitting edges. It remains to tighten the nut on the valve, and you do not need to tighten it too much, about a quarter of a turn.

Copper pipes are widely used in various engineering systems of houses and apartments. The main advantages of the material are resistance to corrosion and high temperature, as well as UV radiation. In addition, copper pipes can be easily bent at any angle, making it easy to do it yourself.

As a disadvantage, it is often indicated that the material has a high cost, however, with such excellent characteristics of the metal, its price cannot be low. The installation of copper pipes is carried out using fittings. They can be crimped or soldered, depending on this, the connection of copper pipes is also different. Compression fittings create a detachable connection, and solder fittings are one-piece.

The main advantages and areas of use of copper piping

Copper pipes have an operating temperature from -200 to +250 degrees, as well as a low linear expansion, which allows them to be successfully used for such systems:

  • Heating;
  • Plumbing;
  • Conditioning;
  • Gas transportation;
  • Getting alternative energy, for example, solar systems.

When installing copper pipelines for supplying cold and hot water, you do not have to worry about overgrowing or silting of the inner section. They also do not degrade under the influence of chlorine, which is added in high concentration to tap water. On the contrary, chlorine creates the thinnest protective layer on the inner wall of pipelines, which significantly extends the service life of the pipelines. In turn, a small amount of copper is released into drinking water, which has a beneficial effect on human health.

Features of installing pipes for water supply

Installation of a copper plumbing for cold and hot water does not differ in technology. However, you should pay attention to the appearance of the pipelines and the corresponding fittings: on the parts intended for hot water, thermal insulation made of PVC film is applied. Installation of copper pipes for water supply can be carried out in one of the following ways:

  1. Using threaded fittings.
  2. With soldering.

Collet connection with threaded fittings is the easiest and most affordable way to install it yourself.

Threaded fittings create detachable connections that can be unscrewed or twisted many times as needed. In order to carry out the installation, you must:

  1. Slide the compression nut onto the pipes.
  2. Put on the crimp ring on top.
  3. Connect the elements together.
  4. Tighten the nut.

The crimp ring is responsible for the tightness of the connection, therefore it cannot be reused. If the connection had to be unscrewed, the rubber ring should be replaced. Copper pipes can be bent in any direction, and therefore it is possible to save on the number of fittings.

Soldering is a somewhat more complex installation method, however, it is quite doable with your own hands. You must be careful and follow all safety measures when working with open flames. The connection itself consists of the following stages:

  1. Sand pipe ends and fittings with sandpaper to bare metal.
  2. A thin layer of soldering flux is applied with a brush.
  3. The pipe is inserted into the fitting up to the maximum mark.
  4. The junction is heated with a gas burner or a building hairdryer.
    It is very important to evenly warm up the elements to be connected; for this it is recommended to use a blowtorch with two torches.
  5. When the heating temperature is sufficient to melt the solder, it is introduced into the joint.
  6. After curing, you can remove excess flux.

Copper fittings with pre-provided solder in a special groove are on sale. This simplifies do-it-yourself installation: just insert the end of the pipe lubricated with flux and heat it to the required temperature. The solder will melt and flow into the gap between the pipe and fitting, creating a secure connection.

Features of installing a heating system using copper pipes

The installation of copper pipes for the heating system begins with preparatory work. The material can be bent and cut easily, but it must be done correctly. Key recommendations:

  1. Before installation, it is necessary to cut the pipes into pieces of the required length.
  2. It is better to cut pipes for heating with a pipe cutter or a hacksaw for metal.
  3. The inner surface of the pipelines must be free from burrs and metal chips. This task requires a file and a scraper.
  4. The cut point must be leveled, especially in cases where the cutting was carried out with a hacksaw for metal, which slightly deforms the pipe.
  5. You can bend a tubular product manually or using a special tool.
  6. If the heating system has particularly complex curved sections, it is recommended to use a pipe bender. Such a bend will protect the material from unwanted creases, which can subsequently become a place of corrosion.
  7. Products should be bent with the minimum allowable radius.
  8. The bending radius when working with a pipe cutter must be at least 3.5 times the diameter of the pipeline. If the pipes are bent by hand, the bending radius should be at least 8 diameters.

The connection of the elements of the copper heating system is carried out in two already known ways:

  • Compression fittings;
  • Soldering method.

Due to the fact that copper can be easily bent, installation is easy and requires a small number of fittings. However, you must remember about some rules for combining materials in a heating system.

Copper pipes must not be connected to aluminum radiators.

If the use of aluminum radiators cannot be avoided, a transition must be made through a steel pipe. This will help to avoid the onset of corrosion when copper and aluminum join. As for radiators made of other materials, for example, steel or cast iron, such problems do not arise.