How to make a sports equipment yourself. Children's playground in the country - do-it-yourself playgrounds

A country house or dacha is not only a place for beds and berry bushes. It is pleasant and useful to do physical exercise in the open air, keeping fit and maintaining health. The best way to do this is to use your own horizontal bar or other uncomplicated sports equipment, which can be used by both adults and children.

How to choose a horizontal bar

There are many options for making outdoor exercise machines. To determine the design, you need to understand exactly what you want to get from the sports equipment. People who are constantly engaged in physical education do not have this question - the accumulated experience of regular exercise helps.

What do regular training on the horizontal bar give

Those who do physical education occasionally and do not systematize their skills can be reminded of the important points:

The horizontal bar is the simplest sports equipment that can be easily made with your own hands. If there is no desire or time to do this, they buy a finished product in a specialized store, both individually and in a set with other gymnastic apparatus.
All people, regardless of age, can be happy to use the horizontal bar, from the elderly to the youngest representatives.
Classes on this apparatus allow the athlete to constantly keep himself in good shape, be fit and strong.
Exercises of a passive nature on the horizontal bar help to stretch and relax the spine, relieving stress after working in an uncomfortable position in the garden.
It is extremely beneficial for schoolchildren and students to do relaxation exercises after long periods of sitting at a desk. They help correct posture and get an additional boost of vivacity as a result of increased blood circulation.
Exercising on a regular basis increases endurance and resistance to the increased psychological stress that accompanies us everywhere.
A variety of horizontal bars, their reasonable combination with other sports equipment are very attractive for young children, which gradually draws them into physical education.
Classes in the fresh and clean country air help to strengthen the body and cleanse it of harmful products that saturate the air of cities.

Outdoor exercise is healthy and enjoyable

Types of horizontal bars

The choice of the design of this simple projectile depends on many factors, including the size of the site. There was a time when its typical area was 4 acres. It is clear that in such territories, the construction of a sports campus or a simple horizontal bar is not the first priority.

Such a device does not take up much space on the site, but it allows you to perform a number of warm-up and strength exercises

Horizontal bar with a crossbar on two stands.
A simple horizontal bar with a crossbar takes up little space, but the possibilities of training on such a projectile are still limited
Gymnastic complex - training methods can be significantly expanded if parallel bars, wall bars are installed together with a horizontal bar and a rope is suspended.
With such a projectile, you can expand the range of exercises for all muscle groups, make training interesting and meaningful
Children's gymnastic complex - the child will be happy to spend time on such simulators, especially if the composition is supplemented with a pendulum swing.
To attract the younger generation to physical education, the gymnastic complex must be properly designed and carefully thought out its content in order to interest the child in training

Choosing a place for simulators

Before working out the design and composition of the simulators, you need to decide on the location of the gymnastic town. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the opinion of specialists with experience in such work:

the most suitable place for placing simulators will be the backyard, isolated from the excessive curiosity of passers-by and neighbors;
the underlying surface of the training area must be flexible enough to avoid injury from falls. The best material is crumb rubber. To use it, you need to remove the soil layer of the earth, arrange a drainage layer up to 15 cm thick from sand and gravel, the shock-absorbing bedding is also covered with a layer of 15 cm. You can use sawdust and shavings instead of chips;
avoid placing exercise equipment in the sun, as the heat will not allow exercising or just spending time with children during the day. You should choose a well-shaded or semi-shaded side of the site. However, tree branches or bushes should not interfere with your studies.

The backyard will be the best place to place your own gym.

Main design characteristics

First of all, you need to decide on the material that will be used in the manufacture of simulators. To do this, it is worth conducting an audit of the remains of building materials from the construction of a country house.

Materials

Metal. The most convenient are the remains of the casing from the well device at the site. Mainly for private wells, pipes of 89-146 mm are used; any product from this interval will serve for a long time and reliably. An additional argument in favor of using pipes is the presence of a welding machine in the courtyard and the ability to use it. For the same purposes, you can safely use square pipes left over from the construction of the fence on the site. Applied sizes ranging from 80x80 mm to 150x150 mm with a wall of 4–5 mm are ideal for the construction of a horizontal bar. High weldability is ensured by the use of steel with a low carbon content for the production of such products.
Wood. Remains of various timber profiles are always sufficient at the end of construction. Of course, preference should be given to coniferous wood or hard species, such as oak, hornbeam, ash, and the like. Profiles can be round, square or rectangular. A practical solution can be considered the use of glued structures, since they acquire the properties of anisotropy of mechanical properties.
Fiberglass. For supporting structures, you can successfully use profile products made of fiberglass, for example, round or square pipes. The advantage is the absolute inertness to corrosion, the cost of protection against it is not required, but painting for design purposes can be considered mandatory.

Photo gallery: horizontal bars made of various materials

Wood trunks were used as supports for the unusual design Metal is the most common material for sports equipment When building a horizontal bar, you can combine metal and plastic Wood is an environmentally friendly material well suited for children's exercise equipment

Dimensions

Dimensions of the main parts for outdoor sports equipment:

for supporting structures made of metal, pipes with diameters from 89 to 146 mm can be used;
gripping elements of structures for adults - 32–40 mm, seamless and electric-welded pipes can be used, provided they are rigidly attached to the supporting structures (welding);
it is better to make horizontal bars from a bar with a diameter of up to 40 mm from steel 45. Welding in this case is strictly prohibited.

The depth of the bearing elements buried in the ground must be at least 80 cm, concreting is mandatory. Thus, the length of the horizontal bar posts must be at least three meters.

Step-by-step instructions for making a horizontal bar

To make a horizontal bar on the street, you must perform a number of sequential steps.

Training

Develop a draft design of the horizontal bar construction.
Sketch parts with dimensions.
Draw up a specification of the required materials for the manufacture of the horizontal bar, including the main products, fasteners, electrodes, materials for protective coatings, fixtures and tools. By adding to this list the prices of all listed material assets, you can get an estimate of costs.

This stage needs to be carefully considered in order to avoid additional costs and not to wander around shops and markets in search of what was previously missed.

Procurement operation

This stage is started after the audit of the available materials and the purchase of the missing. Procurement operations include:

Purchase and delivery of materials and tools.
Cutting running materials into blanks in accordance with sketches. Manufacturing of parts. At this stage, you will need a grinder, a measuring tool and more, depending on the design.
Preparation of the workplace for assembly. Installation of the slipway. Electric cable supply for tool and welding machine operation, grounding device.

When cutting materials, it is vital to strictly adhere to the rules for safe work. Do not work without a protective cover on the grinder; protect your face with a shield. The consequences of violating these rules can be dire.

At the end of cutting metal blanks, it is necessary to carefully process the cuts, removing sharp edges and burrs. This can be done with the same grinder or hammer.

Assembly

Before starting this operation, the parts must be laid out on the slipway, first supporting, then auxiliary. In the case of a horizontal bar, you will need two stands and a crossbar. During preparation, you need to choose a way to install the crossbar and prepare a seat for it in advance.

The bar can be secured in different ways

The upper ends of the pipes must be plugged by welding sheet metal covers to them. Smoothen welded seams with a grinder or files. Blunt sharp edges.

The assembled structure must be protected from the atmosphere before installation. For this:

Protect the lower part immersed in the ground against corrosion using bitumen mastic. It can be water-soluble or solvent-based. Both are quite reliable, but the second dries faster. The mastic is applied to the prepared surface (after removing the rust) at a distance of about one meter from the lower end. This means that a small part of the treated surface will protrude from the ground.
The rest of the structure must be prepared for painting by applying a primer on metal.

Installation

To perform this operation, you need to make two holes in the ground. Their depth is 120 cm, so it is better to use a garden drill with a diameter of 20-25 cm to dig them.

Create a drainage layer at the bottom of the grooves. To do this, sand should be poured into them with a thickness of about 18–20 cm. To settle the sand layer, it must be carefully tamped and spilled with water. On top of it, you need to pour a layer of gravel of medium fraction with a thickness of 10-12 cm and also carefully tamp it.
Lower the structure with the lower ends into the pits, carefully level and plumb. Secure with temporary jibs.
When installing, you need to carefully align the horizontal bar
Prepare a concrete mixture of grade 300, which implies the use of cement grade 400, pure river sand in a ratio of 1: 4. Water is added until the desired consistency is obtained.
Pour concrete pits with the installed projectile. The formwork device in this case is optional. In the process of pouring, compact the concrete mass, preventing the formation of air bubbles. At the end of the pouring, cover the surface with a film. The concrete drying period is at least 7 days, the end of the crystallization of the mass will occur no earlier than 28 days. In hot weather, you need to remove the film every day and moisten the concrete surface.
Pits for horizontal bar supports are poured with concrete
If the user of the simulators plans to use it to perform amplitude swing exercises, you need to install stretchers - two for each pole. The angle of inclination of the guy wires with respect to the ground surface should be approximately 30 degrees, the deviation from the supports is about 15 degrees. For fastening the guy wires at the ground level, pits 50–60 cm deep are made in it with a diameter of the existing garden drill. A metal anchor is installed in the concrete to fasten the guy wires.
Children will be interested in bright colors and unusual designs
You need to pay attention to the quality of the stairs. To prevent the metal surface of the bars from slipping and maintaining a normal comfortable temperature, it must be rubberized. Neoprene is also used as a tread. For safety, wooden rungs are carefully processed and covered with a colorless, odorless varnish.
Video: building a street horizontal bar and bars with your own hands

An outdoor horizontal bar, complemented by other gymnastic equipment, will help to keep fit, and involving children in training will accustom them to an active lifestyle. And most importantly, such a simulator can be built independently without using expensive materials.

). When soda is added to vinegar, an intense release of carbon dioxide begins, which we can observe in the form of thousands of bubbles and the resulting foam.

NaHCO 3 + CH 3 COOH → CH 3 COONa + H 2 O + CO 2

soda + acetic acid → sodium acetate + water + carbon dioxide

In cooking (baking), this reaction of soda with acetic acid is often found. The carbon dioxide released into the dough "inflates" it, making it porous and "airy".

But how can the reaction of acetic acid and baking soda be used to create a rocket? Now we will find out and consider the example of creating a simple chemical rocket. Let's get started ...

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT:

A plastic bottle with a volume of 0.5 liters, sticks or pencils (3 pcs.), Baking soda, table vinegar 9%, a paper clip, scotch tape, a cork (a chemical rubber is better, but wine is also suitable), a tea bag, ribbons (not necessary).

PRODUCTION:

Step 1.

We glue the legs of our rocket to the bottle with adhesive tape. As support legs, you can use pencils of the same length or cut out the same branches.

Step 1 a. (optional)

We glue the ribbons with tape to stabilize the flight. Why optional ?! From experience, it was found that with ribbons, the rocket flies much lower due to the greater air resistance.

Step 2.

We open the tea bag and pour out its contents. Put baking soda in an empty tea bag. We tie the bag so that the soda does not spill out. You should end up with a soda bag thick enough to fit easily into the neck of a plastic bottle.

Step 3.

We attach the soda bag to the cork with a paper clip.

Watch the video, which shows in detail how to make such a rocket ...

PREPARING FOR FLIGHT AND LAUNCHING:

Step 4.

Pour one third of the volume of vinegar (approximately 150 ml) into the bottle.

Step 5.

Carefully, so that the soda does not spill into the bottle of vinegar, put a bag of soda and tightly plug the neck of the bottle with a cork.

IMPORTANT: The cork should fit very tightly into the bottle. To do this, you need to select a cork of the appropriate thickness. The stronger the cork holds, the more pressure will be created inside the bottle during a chemical reaction, and the higher our rocket will fly.

Step 6.

We turn our rocket upside down. At the same time, the vinegar comes into contact with the soda bag and a chemical reaction begins with an abundant release of carbon dioxide.

About the chemical reaction of the interaction of vinegar and soda, see here

Step 7.

We wait for about a minute, until there is enough gas to shoot the plug. As a result of the reaction, more and more carbon dioxide is released into the interior of the bottle. Because a plugged cork prevents this gas from escaping, then the gas pressure inside the bottle increases. When the critical pressure is reached, the cork, along with the contents of the bottle, is shot down. Under the influence of jet thrust, the rocket flies upward.

Such a rocket flies high enough! With a tightly driven traffic jam, the rocket takes off to a height of 20-30 meters (the height of a 9-storey building is ~ 27 meters).

IMPORTANT:

The rocket should be tested only outdoors! Vinegar has a pungent odor and is sprayed all over the place when it starts up.

Do not stand close to the rocket during launch!

Do not aim the rocket at people or animals!

In no case bend your face over a loaded rocket "just look" or "see why it doesn't take off for a long time"!

By following these simple rules, you can have fun and without consequences launch your own rocket. Good luck!

How was the test of our rocket in the field, see below ...

Making rockets with your own hands from scrap materials is a popular hobby among Westerners. In Russia, home "rocketry" is not in such high demand, but even here there are enthusiasts. And in most cases these are not technical students, but the parents of little fidgets and young dreamers. Only loving mothers, fathers and creative teachers-educators know how to make a rocket with their own hands from paper, cardboard, and a bottle so that it not only involves the kids in space travel, but also takes off effectively. Using diagrams and models, daring experimenters will make a rocket that flies out of matches and foil. Don't believe me? Experience our master classes with photos and videos firsthand!

How to make a space rocket with your own hands from scrap materials - a step-by-step master class for children and parents

To give your child a new exciting toy, you do not have to visit stores and auctions of expensive children's goods. You can make a bright, interesting and, most importantly, safe little thing with your own hands. For example - an intergalactic rocket for entertaining role-playing games and virtual travel. And our step-by-step master class "How to make a space rocket from scrap materials with your own hands" will simplify and accelerate the collective creative process of parents and children.

Required materials for a rocket from scrap materials

plastic bottle
colored terry sock
glue gun
sheet of red felt
thick foil
cardboard
scissors
yarn red and yellow
paper towel tube
thin lace

A step-by-step master class for children on creating a space rocket from scrap materials

Wash the empty plastic bottle with warm water and dry. Pull a colored sock onto a clean, dry container. Tie a thin string under the bottom of the bottle, and cut off the tail.
Cut out two circles with a diameter of 5 cm out of red felt. Glue the shapes onto the finished rocket base, simulating portholes. On the red circles, fix the same round pieces of thick foil with a glue gun, but with a smaller diameter. Approximately 3.5 cm.
Draw three fins on a piece of white cardboard. Cut out the shapes and glue the tip down to the rocket on three sides.
Cut a ring 5-6 cm wide from a cardboard tube (from toilet paper or paper towels). Wrap the part with thick foil. Wrap the red woolen threads around the palm, then glue the resulting skein with one side to the previously prepared part.
Do the same with the yellow yarn. So it will turn out to make the lower part of the rocket with decorative flames. Fix the part with a glue gun to the bottom of the bottle. This completes the step-by-step master class for children and parents "How to make a space rocket with your own hands from scrap materials"!

How to make a bright rocket out of cardboard and paper with your own hands - diagrams and models

If preschoolers are delighted and delighted with a small toy rocket the size of a bottle, then older kids will like a full-length spacecraft. Your own intergalactic ship will allow junior schoolchildren to feel like real captains and show courage, bravery and courage as the main traits of a man's character.

How to make a large model of a rocket out of paper and cardboard with your own hands for a child, see the next master class with diagrams, photos and videos.

Do-it-yourself materials for a paper and cardboard rocket model

carton boxes
colored paper
yogurt cups
disposable plates
plastic covers and buttons
adhesive letters and numbers
bobbins of thread
flower pot
foam circle and pieces of fabric
stencils letters
markers
scissors
pencil
satin ribbons
thick foil
glue gun

A simple diagram of how to make a model of a rocket out of cardboard and paper with your own hands

With the help of the little ones, start building a colorful rocket. Let the kids help you with their favorite toy tools. Use a large appliance box as the base of the rocket. Ideally, from the refrigerator.
Make the top of a rocket with a dyed flowerpot, disposable tableware, and plastic sewing thread bobbins. Decorate the details with pieces of satin ribbons and three-dimensional stars made of colored paper.
Cut out a round window in the front wall of the rocket. Wrap the foam circle with multi-colored satin ribbons and glue it to the panel in place of the porthole. Glue a few bobbins of thread just above and mark them with adhesive numbers. This will make it easier for the little pilot to keep track of the time to launch. Place another dashboard below the porthole to make the rocket more interesting.
On the right side of the space rocket, equip the fuel tank cap with bright plastic buttons. For this, plastic bottle caps, spools of thread, old buttons from various devices are useful.
Don't forget the front door. Draw a large oblong rectangle on the back of the rocket and cut through three sides (bottom, top, and right). The remaining left side will serve as a curtain. Decorate the captain's door with decorative items.
Draw two legs on thick cardboard, cut out the details and cover them with foil. Fix the elements to the bottom of the right and left side of the rocket. With this the spacecraft is ready. For a visual explanation of how to make a bright rocket out of cardboard and paper with your own hands, see the model diagram.

How to make a rocket with your own hands so that it flies - step-by-step instructions with photos and videos

Even using the most primitive waste materials (candy boxes, cardboard tubes from napkins, etc.), you can make an unusual rocket with your own hands that will fly. Of course, she will not be able to surf the vastness of the universe, but she will boldly go on a journey through the children's room. Use our step-by-step instructions with photos and videos to make your kids a glorious gift for the significant Cosmonautics Day.

Do-it-yourself materials for a flying paper rocket

paper towel tube
thick cardboard
scissors
pencil
brushes and paints gouache
permanent marker
yarn
straw for drinks

Step-by-step instructions with photos and videos on creating a flying rocket with your own hands

How to make a simple launcher bottle rocket to take off

If the kids have grown up a long time ago and are no longer interested in cardboard toy models, invite them to make a simple rocket with a trigger that can take off high and effectively. Rest assured, the stunt with the launch of a spacecraft will delight even an adult. What can we say about impressionable teenagers.

Required materials for a simple rocket from a bottle with a launcher

thick cardboard
thin cardboard
scotch
plastic bottle
plasticine
wine stopper
pencil
scissors
bicycle Pump

Step-by-step instructions for creating a simple rocket with a trigger

Roll a sheet of thin cardboard into a cone. Trim the edge to make the shape straight.
Cover the finished cone with colored tape, this will increase its resistance to water.
Wash and dry the empty bottle. Paint the container in any color, draw an emblem if you wish or leave an inscription.
The main part of the rocket - the cone - glue it with liquid silicone to the bottom of the bottle. Try to make the structure as flat as possible.
Cut 3-4 right-angled triangles out of thicker cardboard. Glue the parts to the bottle. This will give the rocket tail keels. Ideally, the "legs" should end at the extreme point of the container neck.
Weight the bottom of the rocket. To do this, wrap a piece of plasticine around the neck of the bottle and mask the load with adhesive tape.
Pour 1 liter of water into the bottle.
Make a thin hole in the wine stopper with a needle. The hole size should not exceed the diameter of the needle from the bicycle pump.
Insert the stopper carefully into the neck of the bottle. Insert the needle from the bike pump firmly to prevent it from popping out.
Take the rocket with its neck towards the top and connect it to the pump. Turn the spacecraft over and position it so that it will not fly in your direction.
Holding with your hand, pump the rocket with air. Then release the craft and continue pumping air. A simple rocket from a bottle with a launcher will take off as soon as the cork can no longer hold the thrust.

How to make a rocket out of matches, foil and other improvised materials with your own hands on video

And for those who strive to remember a fun and carefree childhood, being already old enough, we have prepared another master class with a video on making a flying rocket from matches, paper clips and foil. This time you will not have to make crafts from cardboard, paper, bottles and other scrap materials. It is enough just to remember the very unpretentious model that flies, and accurately reproduce it, observing safety precautions. And if you cannot recall the step-by-step instructions in any way, watch the video "How to make a rocket out of matches, foil and other materials with your own hands."

In this article: how to make your own children's swing; stages of creating a sandbox and caring for its filler; building a children's slide - a detailed analysis.

The desire of parents to provide their children with a good rest in the country is natural, but the question is inevitable - how to keep the child busy in order to relax on their own? The issue cannot be resolved by the allocation of a play area at a summer cottage, it is required to equip its landscape with play shells, which in itself is not cheap. We will save money and equip the playground with our own hands, building a high-quality and reliable playground on our own.

Children's swing - we build ourselves

In terms of popularity among children and adolescents, the swing is always in the first place, so every playground simply must have this play equipment. It will help to determine the location of the playing area at the summer cottage, but here we will deal with the construction of the game shells. The task of constructing a swing can be divided into two subtasks - mounting the crossbar and creating a swing seat, with the fixing of the cords (racks) that hold it on the crossbar.

As a crossbar for a children's swing, you can use a horizontally located branch of a live (not dry!) \u200b\u200bTree (of course, the branch should not be dry either), with a thickness of 100 mm and a length of at least 1,200 mm, a height from the ground of at least 2,500 mm. Fastening the rope cord of the swing to the branch is carried out through eye bolts passed through the branch and fastened with bolts, or with a rope loop - a rope made of nylon or hemp thread is laid in half, wrapped around the branch with its laid side, then the ends of both ropes that make it up are threaded inside the loop formed in the bend of the ropes, which allows you to get a self-tightening noose loop. The rope ends are then threaded through the holes prepared in the seat.

Under the racks to support the crossbeam, you can use tree trunks located at a distance of at least 1,500 mm from each other, the trunk diameter of which exceeds 300 mm. The crossbar can be made of a wooden beam with a cross section of 120 mm 2 or from a water pipe with a diameter of more than 500 mm. In principle, you can attach a bar or pipe to tree trunks with 3-4 self-tapping screws 70-100 mm long on each side, but if the owners of the site are worried that the trees may be harmed, then the crossbar is attached to the trees using a double rope noose.

If there are no suitable trunks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe summer cottage, where it is supposed to mark the playground, you will have to put up vertical racks, connect them with a horizontal crossbar and place the seat mountings on it. The design of the swing will be especially strong if each of its side posts is made not of one vertical, but of two bars arranged in the shape of the letter "A". For each of these racks you will need: 2 beams with a cross section of 120 mm and a length of 3,000 mm; a bar for a horizontal crossbar, with a section of 100 mm and a length of about 1 100 mm.

First, you need to assemble the structure of the swing frame - on the upper parts of each pair of racks, a third is selected, adjusted to the bar of the crossbar. Then the paired posts are connected to the crossbar on the anchor bolt, for which a hole is pre-drilled. At 1,500 mm from the bottom edge of each post, a horizontal spacer is installed on the anchor to increase their rigidity. Further, pits with a depth of 1,100 mm each are torn off under each of the side posts, the distance between the pits of the opposite posts is 1,000 mm. At the bottom of each pit, a 100 mm layer of gravel is poured, rammed. The swing frame rises, its racks are inserted into the prepared pits - it is first necessary to cover the lower part of the racks with hot bitumen or Kuzbass varnish (about 1 200 mm) to protect the wood from decay. Racks are placed - it is necessary to fill the free space in the pits with gravel to the top, then tamp. Fastening the racks in the pits requires special care, because the strength of the entire structure depends on it.

The width of the seat of a children's swing is 400-500 mm, respectively, the attachments to the crossbar under the ropes holding it must be spaced from each other by this distance. To attach the ropes, it is better to use eye bolts with a one-piece eye - in this case, the rope holders of the swing seat are guaranteed not to jump off the crossbar. The swing seat can be purchased ready-made, usually made of plastic, made by yourself, or you can adapt a not too worn-out car tire for it through four eye bolts passed through. It should be noted that a horizontally fixed tire, which has a very convenient hole in the center, is excellent as a swing seat - the child will not fall out of it, however, it will be inconvenient for him to swing independently.

To independently make a seat for a small child that meets all safety conditions, you will need: four pieces of a metal tube with a diameter of 20 mm, two of them 65 mm long, the remaining two - 125 mm; square board or plywood under the seat, with a thickness of 25 mm and 4000 mm sides; five wooden planks 400 mm long, with a section of 40x50 mm. In the narrower side of the four strips, we drill 10 mm holes, stepping back 40 mm from each end. In the remaining plank, we also drill two holes, but already in its wider side. At the corners of the seat board, 40 mm from each side, we drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm. Thoroughly clean the seat plank and planks with No. 0 emery cloth; after this operation, they can be covered with two layers of varnish or oil paint.

We proceed to the assembly of the elements of the seat and the swing itself - in each of the two holes located on the front side of the seat, we pass a rope and impose several knots at each end so that the ends of the ropes are guaranteed not to slip out of the holes. Assembly is carried out according to the scheme from the front of the seat to its back. Through each of the two ropes, we successively pass one tube 125 mm long and one side of the bar with a hole on the 40 mm side (each of them will be the side handles of the seat). Then a bar with holes in the 50 mm side is strung on both ropes (it will protect the child from falling off the swing in the forward direction). The rope ends are then passed through the eyebolt lugs and thrown freely downward.

It is time to assemble the elements of the back side of the seat, strung on the ropes in the following sequence: the ropes are passed through both holes of the first plank (together with the second plank they form the back of the seat); are inserted into the free holes of the side plates; the ropes are threaded through the second bar; each rope is threaded through 65 mm long tubes. Further, the rope ends are passed through the free holes in the back side of the board intended for the seat and "temporary" (!) Knots are tied on them. Why "temporary"? Because you need to make sure that there is sufficient distance between the suspended seat bottom and the ground. exceeding 350 mm. But in order to measure this distance, you first need to position the seat elements in their correct position, i.e. the backrest, sidewalls and faceplate should be in place, align the seat strictly horizontally. After making sure that this distance is quite sufficient, we form loops on the ropes near the eyebolt eyes, connecting both ropes with several moves of wire, thick rope or a clamp.

It is necessary to check the strength of the created swing - we put a load on the seat, the mass of which is three times the weight of the child, swing it for half an hour, while simultaneously monitoring the behavior of the frame and ropes. Then we remove the load and assess the condition of the seat and, most importantly, the wear of the rope attachment of the swing, measure the distance from the bottom of the seat to the ground - has it decreased (if this distance decreases, it is necessary to replace the rope with a better one, i.e. not stretching). If everything is in order - the swing is ready, you can roll the child.

DIY sandbox

Parents for the most part treat the creation of a sandbox with insufficient attention, which ultimately turns into problems both in its design itself and with the health of the beloved child. Let's figure out how to properly build a sandbox and take care of it.

The creation of a sandbox begins with the choice of a place and its preparation - a square-shaped area with a 1,500 mm side is marked out, soil is removed inside its perimeter to a depth of 150-200 mm. Excavation of the soil will remove the roots of the weeds, otherwise they will germinate and the sandbox will have to be weeded regularly. Then the entire area from which the soil was dug is covered with geotextiles - a measure, again, preventing the development of weeds. Sandbox boards are created from edged boards, with a thickness of 25 mm - the height of the board above ground level should be from 150 to 200 mm. Adjacent boards of the sides are connected to each other in half a tree, from the outside between the overlaps of the boards, a piece of square bar with a side of 50 mm is attached to the screws, in addition, the same lengths of timber (to the height of the sandbox side) are mounted in the center of each side. From above, the sides are covered with an edging board about 150 mm wide, designed for the seat of children. In the corners, they are joined by a edge at 45 °, fastening to the structure is carried out with self-tapping screws to the embedded timber - the projections of the plank seats in and out of the sandbox perimeter should be the same. After assembling the seats, their corners are rounded and sanded, all elements of the sandbox are painted in bright colors - red, yellow and blue, it is better if the color is not monochromatic, i.e. the sides inside and outside, as well as the seats, should be painted in different colors.

The sand mass is poured into the sandbox in a 200-300 mm layer, river sand is more suitable - its grain is larger than that of mountain (quarry) sand.

Important: Do not put wet sand into the sandbox, i.e. just from the river bank - it is necessary to keep it in the sun for at least two days, not letting children near it!

The fact is that wet river sand can contain a whole zoo of microorganisms - they can be completely destroyed with the help of several liters of boiling water, poured into the sand and then dried under the sun, because ultraviolet light is fatal to microorganisms. So that microorganisms do not start up in the sandbox again, I do not recommend placing a permanent canopy over it - a temporary one is better. But the cover over the sandbox will be appropriate - it will provide some protection from flying debris, animal and bird excrement.

How to build a children's slide

At the stage of designing a children's slide, we focus on the technical requirements of GOST 52169-2003 - safety issues are well covered in it. Structurally, the children's slide consists of three elements - a platform, stairs leading to it and a slope. Let's figure out how to create each of them and combine them into a safe slide.

The platform itself can become an interesting structure in children's games, you just need to create a sufficient area. In addition, on the basis of the platform or under it, you can create a playhouse if you perform a roof over it and sheathe the walls. So, we put a platform with a platform of 1000 by 1000 mm, the height from the ground level is 2500 mm. To build it, you will need: a wooden beam for the frame racks, with a section of 150 by 150 mm, in the amount of four pieces, 4 300 mm long each; timber with a section of 100 by 50 mm, length 5000 mm; timber with a section of 50 by 50 mm, length 4 200 mm; edged board 30 mm thick - 1.2 m 2. As with the creation of a swing, pits must be prepared for the platform supports - in our case, they will be equidistant from each other by a meter distance, each one torn off to a depth of 1,100 mm. Having prepared the pits, we start assembling the frame under the platform and connect the 150 mm thick beams in pairs in pairs with meter lengths of 100x50 mm timber by three 120 mm self-tapping screws on each side. A staircase will rest on the first connected pair of 150 racks, and the slide on the second. Between themselves they will be connected by a railing beam, it is necessary to cut grooves 40 mm deep under it at a distance of 3,570 from the lower ends of the racks before placing in the foundation pits.

Having filled up a 100 mm layer of gravel on the bottom of the pits and tamped it down, put the first pair of racks in them, fill the gravel up to the top, check the vertical position with a building level or a plumb line and, keeping verticality, tamp the gravel tightly. Then we proceed to the installation of the second pair of racks and repeat the operations of their installation in the pits. We connect the racks from the side of the stairs with the racks from the side of the slope with a bar under the railing, inserting each segment of it into the prepared grooves and securing with two 120 mm self-tapping screws. We lay the edged board on the platform floor and install the railing crate - 3 beams with a section of 50 by 50 mm on each side with a step of 300 mm, securing them with 70 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be drowned flush with the railing. If you are afraid that the child may slip between the crate, then increase the number of crate bars to 5-6 pieces, reducing the step between them.

We take up the stairs. To save material and space, we will make it at an angle of 60o, bowstrings from a bar with a section of 100 by 50 mm, stair steps made of edged boards 30-40 mm thick, the width of each step is 150 mm, the distance between adjacent steps (step height) is 150 mm, a railing beams 75 by 40 mm, lathing between steps and railings made of 50 mm beams (step - at each step). In the bowstrings, grooves are cut out for the horizontal installation of steps, taking into account the angle of rise and 500 mm width of the stairs, the steps are attached to 70 mm screws. The area next to the platform, where the ladder bowstrings will rest, is freed from turf and soil to 15 mm depth and covered with gravel, then laid with a concrete slab or concreted. The ladder is attached to the platform with two anchor bolts.

A ramp for a children's slide can be purchased separately - depending on the length and height, a finished plastic ramp will cost about 16,000 rubles. Expensive, so we will build the ramp ourselves. With a slide height of 2,500 mm, the minimum slope length should be 4,500 mm - it cannot be less, the angle of descent will be too sharp, which is fraught with injury. In addition, the descent should end with the fall of those rolling on the ground or sand, and have a gentle end, preferably with a slight upward bend. Getting started - for the frame you will need a beam with a section of 50 by 200 mm and a length of 10,000 mm, a beam with a section of 50 by 100 mm for the descent lathing, plywood 12 mm thick, galvanized steel sheets 1.5-2 mm thick. The width of the slope is 500 mm, we place two pieces of timber 4,000 mm in length and a section of 50 by 200 mm at this distance from each other and fasten with 50 mm self-tapping screws on one side of a piece of timber with a section of 50 by 100 mm in increments of no more than 20 mm. The remaining 2 m of a 50 x 200 mm section beam will go to the gentle end of the descent. We install the descent ribs with the lathing fixed to them on the platform using anchor bolts, without tightening them to the end - the descent structure will have to be removed once in order to fix the lathing on the shallow bottom part after its construction. The lower part of the descent is not finished yet, so we raise it above the ground using bricks. Now it is necessary to create a gentle descent using the remaining timber - we build up the lower part of the trigger frame with an overlapping timber using anchor bolts, bringing the end of the descent not horizontally, but slightly upward. Then we fasten the crate, under the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the ground we start a concrete slab, after having poured gravel under it and firmly connect the descent frame to the platform.

We form the flooring of the slide descent - we attach plywood to 3.5 mm self-tapping screws, galvanized on top of it. If you use moisture-resistant plywood, then you can do without the surface layer of galvanized. We carefully study the constructed children's slide - we carefully grind the railings, handrails and the side along the descent, several times we lower a 70 kg bag of sand along it. After making sure that the created structure of the slide is strong and after applying two layers of paint to its elements, we give permission for children to ride.

Abdyuzhanov Rustam, rmnt.ru

Rocket modeling is an activity that attracts not only children, but also quite adults and successful people, as can be understood from the composition of the teams of athletes at the World Championship in rocket modeling, which will be held in Lviv on August 23-28. Even NASA employees will come to compete on it. With rockets assembled by ourselves. In order to make the simplest operating model of a rocket with your own hands, special knowledge and skills are not needed - there are a large number of detailed instructions on the Internet. You can use them to make your rocket out of paper, even from parts purchased from a hardware store. In this article, we will take a closer look at what rockets are, what they are made of and how to make a rocket with our own hands. So, in anticipation of the Championship, you can get your own model and even launch it in flight. Who knows, maybe by August you will decide to take part in the out-of-class competition for launching rockets with a payload "Save Space Eggs" (held as part of the Championship) and compete for a prize fund of 4,000 euros.

What the rocket consists of

Any rocket model, regardless of class, necessarily consists of the following parts:

Housing. The rest of the elements are attached to it, and the engine and the rescue system are installed inside.
Stabilizers. They are attached to the bottom of the rocket body and give it stability in flight.
Rescue system. Needed to slow down the free fall of a rocket. Can be in the form of a parachute or a brake band.
Head fairing. This is the cone-shaped head of the rocket, which gives it an aerodynamic shape.
Guide rings. Attached to the body on one axis, needed in order to secure the missile to the launcher.
Engine. It is responsible for rocket take-off and is present even in the simplest models. They are divided into groups according to the total thrust impulse. You can buy a model engine from a shop for technical creativity or assemble it yourself. But in this article we will focus on the fact that you already have a ready engine.

Not part of a rocket, but a must-have launcher. It can be purchased ready-made or assembled independently from a metal rod on which the rocket is attached and a trigger. But we will also be guided by what launcher you have.

Rocket classes and their differences

In this section, we will look at the classes of missiles that can be seen with our own eyes at the World Championship in Rocket Modeling in Lviv. There are nine of them, of which eight are approved by the International Aeronautical Federation as official for the World Championship, and one - S2 / P - is open not only for athletes, but also for everyone who wants to compete.

Rockets for competitions or just for yourself can be made from different materials. Paper, plastic, wood, foam, metal. A mandatory requirement is that the materials are not explosive. Those involved in rocket sports seriously use specific materials that have the best performance for rocket targets, but can be expensive or exotic.

An S1 class rocket in competition must demonstrate the best flight altitude. These are some of the simplest and smallest rockets that take part in competitions. S1, like other missiles, are divided into several subclasses, which are indicated by letters. The closer to the beginning of the alphabet, the less the total thrust impulse of the engine, which is used to launch the rocket.

Rockets of the S2 class are designed to carry payload, in accordance with FAI requirements, "payload" can be something compact and fragile, with a diameter of 45 millimeters and a weight of 65 grams. For example, a raw chicken egg. A rocket can have one or more parachutes, with the help of which the payload and the rocket will return to the ground safe and sound. S2-class missiles cannot have more than one stage and they must not lose a single part in flight. The athlete needs to launch the model to a height of 300 meters and at the same time land it in 60 seconds. But if the cargo is damaged, then the result will not be counted at all. So it's important to strike a balance. The weight of the model with the engine must not exceed 1500 grams, and the weight of the fuel components in the engine must not exceed 200 grams.

S3-class rockets may look exactly like S1-class rockets to the uninitiated viewer, but their tasks in competition are different. S3 are rockets for the duration of the descent using a parachute. The specificity of the competition in this class lies in the fact that an athlete needs to make three rocket starts, using only two rocket models. Accordingly, at least one of the models still needs to be found after launch, and they often land several kilometers from the starting zone.

For models of this class, parachute diameters usually reach 90-100 centimeters in diameter. Common materials are fiberglass, balsa wood, cardboard, and the nose is made of lightweight plastic. The ribs are made of lightweight balsa wood and can be covered with cloth or fiberglass.

The S4 class is represented by gliders, which must be in flight for as long as possible. These are "winged" devices, whose appearance is quite seriously different from what can be expected from a rocket. They rise into the sky using an engine. But in gliders it is forbidden to use anything that will give them acceleration or in some way affect the hover, in the sky the device must be held solely due to its aerodynamic characteristics. The materials for such rockets are usually balsa wood, the wings are made of fiberglass or foam, and balsa wood too, that is, everything that weighs almost nothing.

The S5 class of rockets are replica rockets, the purpose of their flight is height. The competition takes into account not only the quality of the flight, but also how accurately the participant succeeded in repeating the body of a real rocket. These are mainly two-stage models with a massive launch vehicle and a very narrow nose. They usually travel very quickly towards the sky.

S6-class rockets are very similar to S3-class rockets, but in flight they throw out a brake band (streamer). In fact, it serves as a rescue system. Since missiles of this class must also hold out in the air as long as possible, the task of the competitor is to create the most lightweight and yet strong body. Models are made from parchment or fiberglass. The nose is made of vacuum plastic, fiberglass, paper, and the stabilizers are made of light balsa wood, which is covered with fiberglass for durability. Tapes for such missiles are usually made of aluminized lacquer. The tape should "flap" intensively in the wind, resisting the fall. Its dimensions usually range from 10x100 centimeters to 13x230 centimeters.

S7 class models require very painstaking work. Like the S5, these models are multi-stage replicas of real missiles, but unlike the S5, they are judged in flight by, among other things, how plausibly they repeat the start and flight of a real rocket. Even the colors of the rocket must match the "original". That is, this is the most spectacular and difficult class, do not miss it at the World Championship in rocket modeling! Both juniors and seniors will compete in this class on 28 August. The most popular missile prototypes are Saturn, Ariane, Zenith 3, and Soyuz. Copies of other rockets take part in the competition, but as practice shows, they usually show worse results.

The S8 are radio-controlled gliding cruise missiles. This is one of the most diverse classes, here the designs and types of materials used differ significantly. The rocket must take off, make a gliding flight within a certain time. Then it needs to be planted in the center of a circle with a diameter of 20 meters. The closer to the center the rocket lands, the more bonus points the participant will receive.

The S9 class are rotorcraft and they also compete with each other in flight time. These are lightweight models made of fiberglass, vacuum plastic and balsa wood. Without an engine, they often weigh about 15 grams. The most intricate part of this class of rockets are the blades, which are usually made of balsa and must have the correct aerodynamic shape. These missiles do not have a rescue system; this effect is achieved due to the autorotation of the blades.

At competitions, rockets of this class, as well as classes S3, S6 and S9, must be at least 40 millimeters in diameter and at least 500 in height. The higher the subclass of the rocket, the larger its dimensions should be. In the case of the most compact S1 missiles, the body diameter should not be less than 18 millimeters, and the length should not be less than 75% of the rocket length. These are the most compact models. In general, there are restrictions for each class. They are set out in the FAI (International Aeronautical Federation) code. And before the flight, each model is checked for compliance with the requirements of its class.

Of all the missiles taking part in the current Championship, only the S4, S8 and S9 class models are required that none of their parts be separated during flight, even on a rescue system. For the rest, this is acceptable.

How to make a simple and functional rocket model from scrap materials

The easiest missiles to make at home are the S1 class, and the S6 class is also considered relatively simple. But in this section we will talk about the first one. If you have children, you can either make a rocket model together or trust them to make it themselves.

To make a model you will need:

two sheets of A4 paper (it is better to choose a multi-colored one to make the rocket look brighter, the paper thickness is about 0.16-0.18 millimeters);
glue;
polystyrene (instead of it you can use thick cardboard from which boxes are made);
a piece of thin polyethylene, at least 60 cm in diameter;
ordinary sewing thread;
rubber band (as for money);
a rolling pin or other object of a similar shape, the main thing is that with a smooth surface and a diameter of about 13-14 centimeters;
a pencil, pen or other object of a similar shape with a diameter of 1 centimeter and another one with a diameter of 0.8 centimeters;
ruler;
compass;
engine and launcher if you plan to use the rocket for its intended purpose.

On the drawings, of which there are a lot on the Internet, you can find missiles with different ratios of the length and width of the hull, the "sharpness" of the head fairing and the size of the stabilizers. The text below shows the dimensions of the parts, but if you want, you can use other proportions, as in one of the drawings in the gallery below. The procedure remains the same. Look at these drawings (especially the last one) if you decide to assemble the model according to the instructions.

Housing

Take one of the sheets of paper you have stored, measure with a ruler 14 centimeters from the edge (if you don't have the same volume as ours, just add a couple more millimeters to your figure, they will be needed in order to glue the sheet). Cut off.

Roll the resulting piece of paper around the rolling pin (or whatever you have). The paper should fit perfectly to the object. Glue the sheet directly on the rolling pin to form a cylinder. Let the glue dry, in the meantime, start making the head fairing and tail of the rocket.

The head and tail of the rocket

Take a second piece of paper and a pair of compasses. Measure with a compass 14.5 centimeters, draw from two diagonally located corners of the circle.

Take a ruler, attach it to the edge of the sheet near the beginning of the circle and measure a point on the circle at a distance of 15 centimeters. Draw a line from the corner to this point and cut out this section. Do the same for the second circle.

Glue the cones from both pieces of paper. Cut off the top of one of the cones about 3 centimeters. This will be the tail section.

To glue it to the base, make cuts on the bottom of the cone about every centimeter and 0.5 centimeters deep. Bend them outwards and apply glue to the inside. Then glue it to the rocket body.

To attach the head fairing, you need to make a "ring" through which it will be attached to the base. Take a sheet of the same color you used for the base and cut out a 3x14cm rectangle. Roll it into a cylinder and glue it. The diameter of the ring must be slightly less than the diameter of the rocket base for it to fit perfectly into it. Glue the ring to the rocket head in the same way you glued the base (just don't cut anything off the cone this time). Insert the other side of the ring into the base of the rocket to check if you guessed the diameter.

Let's go back to the tail section. The rocket needs to be stabilized and provided with an engine compartment. To do this, you need to take again the paper from which you made the base of the rocket, cut out a 4x10 cm rectangle, find an oblong and round object with a diameter of about 1 cm and wrap a piece of paper around it, having previously greased it with glue over the entire area so that you end up with a dense multilayer cylinder ... Make 4mm cuts on one side of the cylinder, fold them back, apply glue to the inside and glue to the tail.

The rocket should have stabilizers at the bottom. They can be made from thin sheet polystyrene or, if not available, thick cardboard. You need to cut out four rectangles with sides 5x6 centimeters. Cut out the clips from these rectangles. You can choose any shape you like.

Please note that the head fairing, tail cone and engine compartment must be aligned exactly along the longitudinal axis of the hull (must not be tilted away from the hull).

Rescue system

In order for the rocket to return smoothly to the ground, it needs a rescue system. In this model, we are talking about a parachute. Ordinary thin polyethylene can act as a parachute. You can take, for example, a 120 liter bag. For our rocket, we need to cut out a circle with a diameter of 60 centimeters in it and fasten it to the body with slings (about 1 meter long). There should be 16. Strong threads are suitable for the role of slings. Attach the lines to the parachute with tape at an equal distance from each other.

Fold the parachute in half, then in half again, then squeeze.

To secure the parachute, take another string, the length of which should be twice the length of the body. Glue it to the engine compartment between the two stabilizers. Tie the elastic to the thread in two places, so that if you pull on the thread, the elastic will stretch, and the thread is a stretch limitation (recommendations: tie the elastic to the thread at a distance of 5 centimeters from the upper edge of the case).

Before placing the parachute, a wad must be placed in the rocket. The wad can be, for example, a piece of cotton wool (or soft paper, napkins). Make a ball out of the material you like and insert it into the rocket. If you have talcum powder, sprinkle it with talcum powder to prevent possible fire due to charge detonation. The wad should not fit tightly, but the amount of cotton wool should also be sufficient to push out the rescue system.

Insert it inside the rocket, then place the parachute and lines. Carefully, in rings, so that they do not get tangled.

A streamer can also act as a rescue system, and if you want to make an S6-class missile, you can see how to pack and tie it in these photos.

Mount to launcher and launch

Cut out two rectangles 1.5 x 3 centimeters. Twist them into a cylinder with a diameter of about 0.8 centimeters so that the launcher mount will slide freely through these cylinders. Glue to the base of the rocket on the same axis a few centimeters from the top and bottom of the base.

Install the engine in the engine compartment. Ready to go!

To start, you need a metal rod with a length of at least a meter and a diameter of 4-5 millimeters. It should be strictly vertical to the ground. Regardless of any conditions, the end of the rod should be at least 1.5 meters above the ground to avoid eye injury.

Never try to launch a rocket at home! Even this seemingly innocent device can cause a lot of trouble in a room. The distance from the launch site to the nearest houses must be at least 500 meters.

After igniting the engine, move at least 3-5 meters away from the rocket. Spectators, if any, should be at a distance of 10-15 meters. If you plan to entrust the launch to a child who is under 16, be sure to stay with him.

P.S.

Despite the fact that making the simplest paper rocket is not difficult at all, rocket modeling is a serious and interesting sport that requires a lot of work and a lot of time. And also very entertaining. Against the background of the growing interest from private companies in space exploration, the popularization of this topic among the population, especially children, is extremely promising. After all, those who have been attracted by space since childhood are more likely to choose it as a field of activity in adulthood. If in Ukraine a few decades ago the topic of space would not have been so popular among children, then it is unlikely that now in our country there would be people and companies like that invest in such a promising industry as space. An event of the level of the World Rocket Modeling Championship could not have passed - because there would be no strong teams and a great desire to stir up interest in the industry among the next generations. We have already written about how interesting the Championship promises to be. There, by the way, it will be possible to assemble the rocket yourself from ready-made parts. Come to Lviv, see everything with your own eyes. Detailed information about the event can be found at its