Drain from the sink into the toilet bowl. The original solution with a toilet bowl and a sink on the tank

Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become less expensive and have become widely used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones both in terms of the degree of insulation, and in terms of sound insulation, and on by fitting all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, involved in their assembly at the present time in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But you can often meet small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles at the present time. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by carrying out an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary consumables. And, of course, during installation, exercise increased accuracy, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already withstood the “test of time”, and it will not be advisable to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for the window structure.
After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
The next step is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary - depending on the chosen method of installing the window, which will be discussed below.
The most important step is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its vertical and horizontal alignment, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
Next, there is a sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro- and vapor barrier.
The next step is to install a low tide outside and a window sill inside the room.
The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the installation of the necessary fittings.
When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways of fixing plastic windows

Before undertaking independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

Firstly, one should not be taken for window installation by someone who does not quite accurately represent his device. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Openable window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame by means of special fittings, which allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost dividing the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly into the frame profile (with the "deaf" part of the window) double glazing. It can be single-chamber (two panes) or two-chamber (3 panes).

5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed at the same time as the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in a section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):

- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (pos. 7). This element etc idae T t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

- The sash profile is arranged in approximately the same way (pos. 2). The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (pos. 8)

- A double-glazed window in the frame or in the window sash is held with glazing beads (pos. 9).

- The diagram additionally shows the installation of a PVC panel window slope. Pos . 10 - starting profile, pos. 11 - PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the shape of the cross-section of profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window, but still the typical scheme remains the same.

More details about, and how to choose the right model for it, are described in a special publication of our portal.

Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) previously fixed to the window.

A. In the first case (in the figure - on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastener is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

The window in the opening is set much more accurately.
The fixing strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible one for large windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Flaws:

The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For the inexperienced master it's an extra problem, since when dismantling the glazing beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. For the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling it through) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets fixed on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these platinums are fastened with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from sight.

Advantages:

Such installation is easier and faster, especially if regular anchor plates are used, which fit snugly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.

The integrity of the profile is not violated - there is no need to drill through it.
There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it in a mounted form. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "without unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. Firstly, windows are most often delivered unassembled from the manufacturer. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a window assembly with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps from the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing a low tide is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one that has already been mentioned - in terms of the strength of the installation, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

Immediately it is appropriate to make one very important remark. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact the company that manufactures windows to place an order. The best situation would be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently takes all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the employees of the company, and the customer will have the right to demand the manufacture of the correct window structure.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, the measurement of the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to carry out measurements on your own, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

In panel high-rise buildings, most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
In brick houses, there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measurement of a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and from above the window frame should be a quarter by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and at the same time there must still be a gap to fill it with mounting foam.

So the measurement is done like this:

Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Given that the window should go on them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, 30 ÷ 50 mm are added to the resulting distance. In this way, the required window width is preliminarily obtained.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined WITH at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude V, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at least 20 mm must remain on the sides for sealing with mounting foam. It is possible to correct the ordered width, as there is a certain range of window setting by a quarter.

Now about the height of the window. The entry of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in the openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers mount it even in the process of fulfilling an order, but it never hurts to check.

An important structural element is a substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

To this value is added 15 ÷ 25 mm - this is the entry of the frame into the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. Under it, there should also be a gap for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required height of the window.

For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will change soon anyway). The resulting opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm from above and 5 ÷ 20 mm from below for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if it is not planned to install a substitution profile (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.

The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width - the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

The length of the window sill - the maximum width of the opening ( WITH) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the corner between the opening and the inner wall, plus the desired distance of the window sill to the outside (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a direct opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a direct opening - much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - a).

The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two mounting gaps. WITH. We take it, as before, for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the mounting gap from above (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and 10 mm of the gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting clearance from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window with a quarter.

If the measurements are done, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it’s better to call the measurer to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight skew of the opening, which arose due to the shrinkage of the building.

Preparing Instruments and Consumables

While the window is being made, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare the tool and consumables for installation.

Of the tools and materials you will need:

	Perforator with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chisel-blade		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Building level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood saw
	Anchor plates - if the method of fastening "without unpacking" or combined is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-Compressed Self-Expanding Sealing Tape (PSUL)		Thermo-vapor barrier tape PPE, best of all - foil
	Vapor Permeable Diffusion Tape		Mounting foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should suffice.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table needs clarification:

I.First of all, we deal with the number of points for fastening. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points for fastening. Three of the most common options - a window with an impost, a completely blank window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, there are three main quantities, A, V and WITH.

A- the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fixing points. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The value A is taken equal to from 150 to 180 mm.

V- the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

WITH- the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to even immediately sketch out a scheme for arranging points for fasteners - this will be a good help when carrying out work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the method of fixing the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. At the same time, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or made of natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They will also fit hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, the plates themselves will be needed - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must fit exactly to the PVC profile. To fix the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling tip 4 × 25 mm - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4 x 16 self-tapping screws may be needed to attach the sill and accessories for installing the window sill. They are also needed if it is planned to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

The PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external tide. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when opening with a quarter, and it is desirable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
Polyurethane foam: the best option is to purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, which will require a special gun to use. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like cheap ones sold in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame racks. In addition, it is much better, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary overspending.
Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. With proper installation, the gaps, if any, are very small, that is, a large amount of sealant is not required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase a film that will cover furniture, walls, floors in the room where the window will be installed - at first the work will be quite dusty.

Dismantling the old window

After the window is made and delivered to the place of work, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and laborious, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	First of all, the largest sashes are removed. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - it is possible to remove sashes or doors along with glass only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is very rotten, then for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended that all dismantled parts be taken out of the work area immediately - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old fasteners of the hinges (and most often this happens), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually hung on hinges, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame.
	First, the central rack is removed - the impost. To make this easier, the import is cut closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos, the masters flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. To repeat after them - in no case should it be - it is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower jumper of the frame is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to cut it using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or a nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place of its attachment with a vertical stand, then you can help yourself with a mount there
	After that, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower jumper, the window sill is dismantled. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the street.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged from above and below. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also cut it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems.
	The last vertical leg of the frame should also not resist if it is properly pry with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the racks of the frame and the wall, you have to cut off the plastered slopes with a puncher.
	The last stage is the cleaning of the vacated window opening from the old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a puncher by installing a chisel-shovel on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 high, at the place of the future installation of the window sill.

After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk around the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the mounting foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

A. If it is planned to install the window “with unpacking”, then it is advisable to stipulate the order even at checkout so that it is brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble it yourself.

First, glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appeared, it is expanded by gently moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The glazing bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the interlock. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead - so that there is no confusion during reinstallation. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - the pencil mark is very hard to rub off from the PVC surface.

is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do it that way. Caution - the double-glazed window is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the double-glazed window. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that during installation they stand in the same place.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove a double-glazed window from a PVC window

It is not required to get a double-glazed window from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. It is quite easy to do this. To begin with, the sash handle is transferred to the “closed” position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After that, the sash handle is transferred to the "open" position. The door leans back on top of itself, and then is removed by a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as dismantled double-glazed windows, are temporarily removed from the working area so as not to be accidentally damaged during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

The next step in preparation is drilling holes for fixing the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up layout of points for fastening, the centers of the holes are marked and slightly punched. A drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or a screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, having quickly passed the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, there will be one insignificant obstacle in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and evenness of the edges.

Checks for the presence of a wildcard profile. It is attached from below with a conventional locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not available, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before installing the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with mounting foam so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

The protective coating is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun at least a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. On the inside, this coating can be removed later.

If there is a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are mounted on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that the mesh is securely fixed, as well as its installation and removal by its translational movement upwards until it stops against the upper brackets.

The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Usually PSUL is placed in such a way that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If it is planned to install the window on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the deglazing of a deaf sash may not be carried out - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned, installation will become somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended attachment points. They have serrated or even hooks, which must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to make a moderate effort, for example, knocking out with a mounting hammer - and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, it will securely hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then they are bent so that they fit into the window frame when installed. opening.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, having beaten off the unreliable plaster layer (if any), and facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with a finish.

The rest of the preparation steps do not differ from those about to which were mentioned above.

Installation and fixing of the window in opening

Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against tipping the frame outward, it is exposed to the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. You can give one good advice - temporarily fix the window approximately in the center on top of the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and it will be much easier to work.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower jumper of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical blockage of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if you can get them, then this would be an ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to another, you can set the desired height to the nearest millimeter.

You can, of course, completely get by with wooden wedges or linings, but often this requires trimming, replacing, installing several pieces in a “pyramid”, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can move on to fixing it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the “unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the hardness of his hand. It happens that the perforator drill hits an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not kept, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole right through the frame is dangerous enough

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to re-set the window to its previous position and wedge it, but with drilled holes, this will already be easy to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared nest ...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, knocked out with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without a "fanatical" effort so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, then the plastic part is inserted first, and then the expansion nail is carefully driven in.

… followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, to be sure, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly against the surface of the window opening. Holes are drilled directly through their holes in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the method "without unpacking"

The standards define two fasteners per plate, although, judging by the numerous photographs on the Internet, many masters are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow you to install two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and low tide.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" mounting foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such a foam has a very significant expansion force, which can lead to even slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or with closing the sash, which means that the window must be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. With the help of a pistol, which has a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out upwards. In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is in a disassembled state, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, if necessary, making certain adjustments. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting - an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it completely hardens (in about a day), and the excess is cut off.

If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the hardened layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here may be different, for example, plastering or paneling.

But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free exit of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of damaging effects when freezing and expanding.

And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow from the inside either a direct ingress of water into the insulation layer, or the penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installing a window sill and tide

A. Installing a window sill can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or mounting foam, on special brackets or same using self-made fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the frame design itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the window sill plane. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedged from below for a snug fit to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and low tide is given. Pay attention to location film membranes.

Consider the option of installing a window sill on mounting foam, as one of the most common.

Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight penetration into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, they ensure that the panel inserted into its intended slot on the frame or staging profile is occupied in an exactly horizontal position.
Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the space below it is filled with foam, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by placing on the windowsill evenly along the entire length, for example, water containers.

The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with mounting foam. She will and thermal insulator and act as glue.
It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

If a small gap remains between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next is the installation of a low tide from the outside. An exemplary circuit is shown in the figure.

The place of fastening of the ebb is already covered vapor permeable a membrane that completely covered the mounting foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the opening plane - the ebb, located at an angle, will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, with a pitch of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted flush, and then it makes sense to smear its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the production profile - then you won’t have to be afraid of rainwater penetrating under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by gouging grooves for this. Then it will be easy to fix them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window into fully working condition.

Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings¸ that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The glazing bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
If necessary, an accurate one is made (how to do this - in a special article of the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative casings.

In fact, the installation of the window is completed. Only the issue of installation remained unresolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also paid attention to on the pages of our portal.

Finally, detailed Video instruction for the installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Helpful information

When specialists are engaged in the installation of a plastic window, it seems that there are no difficulties, everything happens quickly and accurately. Fitters work like a finely tuned clock mechanism, where every detail falls exactly in the right place. However, not everything is so simple and you need to know exactly what and how to fix so that the window does not cause problems. Important is the choice of fasteners for proper installation, as well as the direct installation of a specific design.

Basic mounting elements

The variety of fasteners can be a stumbling block for the uninformed, and installers know exactly what parts may be needed during installation. The TBM-Market store offers a wide selection of fasteners for windows, because installation fasteners, if properly installed, will significantly increase the life of the structure.

Types of fasteners:

dowels or screws for concrete;
frame anchors of various types (anchor bolts);
dowels and anchor plates;
self-tapping screws of different diameters, including nipples for them;
various screws and more.

Installers install the window, select the right mount that suits the type of walls in your apartment. A good quality fastener, not intended for a specific structural material, will give a poor result, and the period of reliable operation will be shorter.

Through installation of plastic windows:

Fixings for concrete walls (pins)

Most installers prefer to use dowels or screws for concrete (turboscrews), since the dowel is installed quickly, holds the weight of the double-glazed window securely, and is firmly fixed in the material. During operation, a hole is pre-drilled, into which a screw with a threaded notch is screwed without a dowel, which ensures the strength of the fastener.

The pins have standard dimensions for window openings - 7.5 by 152 (132), if necessary, replacing glass with light-protective, fire-resistant, etc., the structure is easy to dismantle.

Minus fastening: dowels cannot be used when installing plastic windows in heterogeneous walls that have a layer of insulation.

Fastenings on frame anchors

As standard, the anchor has three components: a screw, a sleeve and a conical nut; it requires drilling a hole for installation in a profile and in a wall. The sleeve is at the same time an assisting element for screwing in the screw, an additional fixing link that ensures the fixation of the screw in the hole. The hidden head of the anchor (dowel) can be recessed into the hole or closed with a special overlay.

Standard anchors for concrete (solid bricks) have a length of at least 60 mm, for porous blocks or slotted bricks - at least 80 mm.

It is more problematic to dismantle a plastic window on anchors than on screws, so you need to be especially careful during installation. The disadvantage of anchor dowels is that they cannot be used for multilayer walls, especially when there is an insulating layer.

Non-through mounting

This type of fastening assumes that the integrity of the frame structure will not be compromised (no holes are drilled). For panel-type houses with walls of a multilayer structure, for glazing loggias, anchor plates are used, which are fixed in the window opening, and mounting foam. The plate is attached with the end part to the frame using self-tapping screws, and it is attached to the wall with dowels (length not more than 40 mm).

The decision to replace wooden windows with plastic ones has all the advantages, since modern double-glazed windows are much more functional and reliable. Of considerable importance is the correctness of their installation, for which several methods are used. The most popular of them is mounting on anchor plates.

Most often, one of two methods is chosen for installing plastic windows:

Direct screwing of the frame into the opening with screws.
Use of anchor plates.

The first option is considered more difficult, because. involves a complete disassembly of the structure, including the removal of sashes (both deaf and movable). This makes it possible to drill the profile without interference, attaching it to the walls of the opening with self-tapping screws. After installing the frame, the window is assembled again: this procedure includes adjusting the sashes, installing fittings and double-glazed windows.

This work is quite laborious, so most beginners prefer the faster second method. At the same time, it is important to remember that constructions with an area of more than 2 m², it is recommended to install only directly (this option is more reliable).

The material for the manufacture of anchor plates for plastic windows is galvanized steel with a thickness of 1.5 mm, for which the stamping method is used. Products are equipped with a series of round holes for mounting screws. For the possibility of pre-assembly bending, the plates are equipped with a guide notch in some areas. The depth of the bend directly depends on the thickness of the installation gap: it is selected at the installation site.

It is most convenient to fix the anchor plates on window mounting screws 40x5 mm. To fix the flexible plates in the opening, you will need plastic dowels and locking screws. Each anchor must have at least two anchor points. Here you will need screws 50x6 mm.

There are three main types of anchor window plates:

Swivel.
Fixed.
For wooden windows.

Rotary products used in those situations when fastening the window block in the opening is difficult for one reason or another. Thanks to the swivel mechanism, the plate is positioned on the part of the wall that provides the most secure fit.

If everything is done correctly (exactly combine the turn signal and the external bent teeth), the product will be fixed as securely as possible. In this case, there is no danger of deformation of the profile. The presence of a rotary element and the ability to bend the element makes it possible to use various mounting angles. Most often, arched, trapezoidal and polygonal systems are installed in this way.

With a simple fixed anchor plate installation of plastic windows inside the opening is carried out, with the possibility of selecting the optimal mounting angle. To improve the strength of fixation, some models additionally have a claw hook.

Concerning anchors for wooden windows, then they are not used to install plastic systems.

The ability of anchor plates to quickly provide a reliable connection between the window block and the wall is their main advantage. As a result, it is possible not only to save time and effort, but also to withstand seasonal and daily temperature fluctuations well (this is fraught with structural deformation).

This type of attachment has other dignity :

Ease of installation. Unlike fastening through the frame, the plates eliminate the need for complete disassembly of the window system. This speeds up the installation work, at least twice.

Selection of the optimal mounting area. Movable mechanisms allow you to fix the window at the most convenient angle.

Possibility of installation of the block precisely on level. By adjusting the tension of the side screws, you can achieve precise positioning of the frame in space. In this case, you do not need to put pegs or adjust the openings.

Quick dismantling. If necessary, the plates are unscrewed and the window is removed. This happens much faster than with through bolts.

Ability to reinstall the block. Since the profile is not subject to reaming, the window system on plates can be reinstalled in another location.

Use on walls made of different materials. In addition to concrete and brick surfaces, anchor plates adhere well to wood, foam concrete, gas silicate blocks, etc. They are especially convenient in cases where multilayer walls are used in the house: rod fasteners (screws, anchor bolts) in such situations are powerless.

Possibility of disguise. Anchor devices open the possibility for the use of platbands, window sills and overhead slopes, well masking mounting gaps. In this case, there is no need to sink the plates into the surface of the slope, followed by sealing the resulting recesses with plaster or putty.

Fastening reliability. The plates are well tolerated by significant operational loads, including strong winds and kickback during the opening of the wings.

Cheap fasteners.

Have anchor plates and weaknesses :

Restrictions on the weight of the window structure. Reliability of fastening on plates is guaranteed only for small and medium-sized window units. Heavy structures (most often of a balcony type) are best installed by screwing them through the frames. This also applies to cases where several rows of windows are located on top of each other.

Danger from frequent opening of the sashes. In this case, the window frame is experiencing additional loads, which may adversely affect its integrity. Those sashes that open very often are recommended to be additionally reinforced with bolt fastening.

Decoration damage. It is far from always possible to disguise the anchor plate. First of all, this applies to cases of using plaster or putty as a final finish on the slopes. It is not always possible to sink fasteners into the slope surface, especially when it comes to concrete walls.

Before starting work, you need to acquire the following tools:

Impact drill or hammer drill.
Electric jigsaw or hacksaw.
Hex key for adjusting fittings.
anchor plates.
Measuring devices (level, tape measure).
Fastening materials (screws, self-tapping screws).
Silicone sealant.

It is forbidden to fix windows with mounting glue, foam, etc. Only self-tapping screws may be used as fastening material.

Drilling must be carried out very carefully, avoiding contact between the drill chuck and the plastic frame. To avoid damage, it is recommended to use a long drill and a special plastic pad.

It is desirable to use the activation of the percussion mechanism only on concrete walls.

A brick wall with vertical voids is drilled at the butt interblock sections.

It is allowed to tighten screws with a screwdriver. Particularly convenient are models that have a built-in motion limiter that allows you to control the depth of immersion of the self-tapping screw into the frame.

Installation of anchor plates

The first step is the installation of anchor plates. The optimal distance between individual fasteners on the frame is no more than 100 cm. It is recommended to equip windows of considerable height with an additional fastening unit. The distance between the end plate and the corner of the window should not exceed 25 cm, otherwise it threatens to lose the stability of the unit. Before marking, the outer plane of the frame is released from the protective film. To install the gear elements of the plate, there are special protrusions in the profile.

To make the fastener more reliable, it is reinforced with a window screw. Further, in the same way, the plates are installed along the entire profile, observing the above recommendations for the distance between the individual elements. When bending the plate in places with a notch, it is necessary to ensure that the first bend is adjacent to the frame, and the second is above the wall attachment point.

Frame installation

The installation of the window frame must be accompanied by compliance with all proportions and distances. The distance from the frame to the opening is in the range from 20 to 35 mm. Narrow openings have to be made out with additional seats for fasteners.

Having prepared the opening, a frame is inserted into it. Correction of its vertical position is carried out by driving under horizontal sections of wooden or polymer linings up to 30 mm thick.

Having exposed the structure, you can fix it to the opening. On brick and concrete walls, 6x40 mm dowels are usually used, on wooden ones - 42x45 mm. To avoid distortions, it is recommended to follow the sequence when attaching. It is best to fix the bottom corners first, which will allow the frame to be level. Top fastening is carried out at the final stage. It is recommended to fix each anchor plate with two bolts.

Foam laying

After completing the main installation work, you need to fill the gaps between the frame and the walls of the opening with mounting foam. It is better to fill volumetric cracks in two passes, with a pause of 1.5-2 hours. On sale are several types of mounting foam with different characteristics. When choosing a suitable option, they are guided mainly by the weather features of the region. Most often, there are instructions on the packaging about this.

It is best to insulate the inside of the mounting joint with polyurethane foam, building sealant or butyl-based vapor barrier insulation tape. It is recommended to lay the foam very carefully: a lack of material will not allow to achieve good tightness of the room, and an excess amount threatens to deform the window profile. After solidification, the foam that protrudes beyond the cracks is cut off with a sharp knife. It is better to do this after 48-36 hours.

Installation of a window sill and a low tide

According to the rules, the window sill is allowed to be mounted 24 hours after the foaming of the cracks: this gives the material time to dry well and grab. In practice, this recommendation is often ignored (especially if the installation team is working). When choosing a suitable window sill, you need to consider only those options whose width exceeds the thickness of the outer wall. The plastic product is easily cut to length with an electric jigsaw or hacksaw.

Having adjusted the window sill, it is leveled and fixed. The void that forms under the bottom must be filled with foam by placing several loads on the surface (cans of water, bricks). In this position, the product is left until the next day.

In parallel with the window sill, the tide is being installed. It is inserted into a niche under the main frame and screwed onto the window sill. As a result of this, additional protection against the ingress of external moisture into the room is created.

Exterior finish

Having installed the plastic window on the anchor plates, it is necessary to arrange the outer slope. At the same time, both decorative and practical goals are pursued, because. uncovered foam tends to gradually break down under the influence of atmospheric influences. The easiest option is to use plaster or starting putty for this. When applying the mortar, it is important to achieve complete coverage of the assembly joints. As for the interior decoration of the slope, it is usually carried out along with the general repair of the premises.

Conclusion

When choosing the option of fixing a plastic window, it is recommended to stop at the anchor plates. This is especially true in cases where installation work is carried out by beginners. In the course of work, it is important not to rush, exactly following the recommendations above.

You can also watch some videos