Homemade compressor from available parts. Do-it-yourself garage compressor: how to do it right

In the garage of a car enthusiast, you can find many useful and not very useful tools. In addition to the usual set, an air compressor will also be useful. It is suitable for painting a car, inflating tires, supplying air for the operation of pneumatic tools. Let's see how to make a car with your own hands. We will also find out how it works and on what principle it works.

Compressed air to help the car enthusiast

Air compressors are quite useful in workshops and garages. There is always a challenge for these devices. This can be trivial cleaning, cleaning from dust that formed after grinding, or creating air pressure for the operation of various air tools. More often compressors are used for painting. This imposes some requirements on the device.

Air flow and spray painting

For work with paint, the air flow must be as uniform as possible. Also, the compressed air flow should not contain water particles, oil impurities or other petroleum products. The presence of suspended and solid particles in the flow is unacceptable.

Sometimes when painting you can see defects. Often this is graininess on the newly applied layer of paint. This happens due to the fact that there were foreign particles in the stream. If paint drips or dull spots are observed, then this is a sign of uneven supply of paint, enamel or varnish.

Branded or homemade?

What is the difference between a branded compressor? Its characteristics are ideal for working with an airbrush or spray gun, but factory products cost serious money. If the device is needed infrequently, then you can save a little and make a unit that will be in no way inferior to the factory models.

Compressor working principle

Both professional and self-made devices work on the same principle. An overpressure is created in a compressed air storage tank called a receiver. The air itself can be pumped into the receiver both automatically and manually.

If you work in manual mode, it is certainly very cheap financially, but it will require serious energy costs. You also need to constantly monitor this process. After such work, you will hardly want to do anything else.

If you use mechanisms for air injection, then this will facilitate the process. There are no drawbacks, you just need to change the oil in the air pump, depending on the schedule.

Further, the flow of compressed air passes through the outlet valve of the compressor or, in this case, the receiver and is directly fed either to the airbrush, or to the car chamber, or to the pneumatic tool. In general, the principle is very simple, and therefore the simplest working model can be built in a couple of minutes.

Homemade compressor

Let's take a look at how to make a simple compressor for painting a car with your own hands. As one of the options, we will try to make a paintwork device from a car camera. To create it, we need a receiver, a blower, a spool from a damaged chamber, a repair kit, an awl. When everything you need is assembled and prepared for work, you can start assembling.

At the assembly stage, you need to check the tightness of the chamber. To do this, you can use a car pump. Every motorist knows how to do it. If the rubber holds the air injected into it, you can proceed to the next step.

If air leaks are found, then you can use a repair kit or vulcanize the hole with wet rubber.

At the next stage, in the so-called receiver, it is required to make holes for another spool. It will be an outlet valve. This fitting can be glued using the same pre-stocked repair kit. This valve is connected to the airbrush. The nipple must be unscrewed from the union. The compressor circuit provides for free passage of air. We will not unscrew the nipple in the main spool. He will keep the pressure.

Then, using the scientific poke method, we will try to determine the required pressure level in our receiver. For this, a spray gun is used. If the paint lays down evenly, without jerks, drips or anything else, then everything is done correctly. It is desirable to control the amount of overpressure in the receiver. When you press the airbrush button, the level should not jump.

As you can see, this is the most primitive compressor for painting a car with your own hands. Now you can create masterpieces or just repaint the body.

It is not difficult to assemble this unit, and you can be convinced of its usefulness during various repairs. If you used to paint before then you can definitely appreciate all the advantages.

Just remember that no liquid, dust or anything else should get into the spray gun and the camera. In the event of a violation, dust or moisture will mix with the paint, and the work will have to be redone. Then no adjustment of the spray gun will help. It will be more convenient if our camera is fixed on something. This will prevent her from moving on the floor.

This model works great and is already quite applicable. But it is even better to make the injection system automatic with small changes. Next, we will learn how to make the compressor more serious.

Semi-professional equipment

Professionals say that such handicraft equipment has a huge resource and service life, in contrast to factory models of foreign brands and domestic manufacturers. But this is understandable, because, knowing the scheme of work, if any part fails, it can be easily replaced. Let's take a look at how to make a compressor that can be used for professional purposes.

What do you need to build?

So. This is where readily available compressor parts will be needed. This is a pressure gauge as well as a gearbox with a filter. You also need a relay to control the pressure in the chamber, a fuel filter from a car, a plumbing four-piece with a ¾ female thread. In addition, you should choose threaded adapters, clamps from a car, a motor, a container for a receiver, 10w40 oil, a toggle switch for 220 V, brass pipes, as well as oil-resistant rubber hoses. These compressor parts are easily found in your garage.

Thick wood will be used as the basis for the unit. You will also need a syringe from the nearest pharmacy, a liquid for corrosion protection, fasteners, sealants and FUM tape, paint, a file-file, wheels from an office chair and a filter from the car's power system.

So, knowing how the compressor works, it's time to start building. Let's start with the supercharger.

Engine as supercharger

We will use a compressor from old refrigerators as a motor. Often it already has a built-in start relay, which is very convenient in our case. This will automatically maintain the required pressure in the receiver chamber. It is better to use a motor from old Soviet refrigeration units. They have higher performance compared to imported products.

Preparatory procedures

Feel free to get the executive part out of your old refrigerator. Naturally, you need to clean the part, because over the years the block has managed to become covered with age-old dust, and also, possibly, rust. After cleaning, you can treat the housing with a rust converter to keep the unit from being corroded. So, preparation for painting is done.

Change the lubricant in the executive block. Rarely did a refrigerator receive scheduled service. This system is almost completely isolated from environmental influences. Semi-synthetics are suitable for changing the oil. It is not worse than specialized compressor fluids.

Inlet, outlet and oil change

Must have straws. Two of them are open, one is sealed. Open tubes are used for air inlet and outlet. To find out which tube is the input and which is the output, you can turn on the power briefly. Next, remember which tube is releasing air.

The compressor diagram from the refrigerator says that you need to change the lubricant through a sealed tube. The end of the tube should be very carefully cut off with a file. It is necessary to cut so that the shavings do not get inside. Next, break off the tip and pour the old grease into some jar. Then, using a pharmacy syringe, fill in more grease than spilled.

The lubrication tube must be sealed in order for the unit to function as expected. A screw of a suitable diameter will help us with this. It needs to be wrapped with a pre-prepared FUM tape and screwed into the long-suffering pipe.

Next, attach this device to the board using the prepared fasteners. The electronic part is very sensitive to position. Therefore, the top cover of the relay is marked with an arrow. The operating modes will switch only if they are correctly set.

Choosing a container for the receiver

As practice shows, it works best for painting if a used fire extinguisher is used as a container for air. The good thing about these cylinders is that they have the necessary safety margin. In addition, the fire extinguisher is designed for. This choice is also good because various attachments can be placed on the cylinder body. Take, for example, a metal 10-liter cylinder from an OU-10. It maintains a pressure of 15 MPa and has high strength.

Fire extinguisher preparation

Immediately, boldly twist the locking and starting device, we will not need it. And in place you need to screw the adapter, having previously wound the FUM tape on the thread. If the case is rusted, you need to treat the rust with either chemistry or sandpaper.

Outside, in the fight against corrosion, everything is very, very simple. But what about corrosion inside? Pour the cleaner into the container, and then you need to mix the product very well. Then screw the crosspiece from the water supply. And don't forget to seal the threaded connections. Now everything is almost ready.

We mount attachments

We have almost made a compressor for painting a car with our own hands. So that it can be conveniently moved, the best option is to mount all the nodes and parts on one platform. We have a wooden slab. The motor from the refrigerator is already fixed on it, and now it is necessary to place a fire extinguisher-receiver there.

Holes for fasteners must be made in the plate in advance. The motor from the refrigerator is already fixed with studs and nuts. Place the fire extinguisher vertically. To do this, you can use plywood. This will require three sheets.

In the first sheet, cut a hole that fits the diameter of the cylinder. Fix the rest on the stove. Next, fix these plates on the plate along with the sheet with the hole using glue. To make the fire extinguisher fit comfortably on the platform, you can make a recess under the bottom. To make our device maneuverable, take out the prepared furniture wheels and screw them onto the platform.

Protection from dust and small debris

Naturally, the equipment should be as reliably protected from dust as possible. To do this, let's use a car. The filter must be installed in the air intake.

How to do it? We will use a rubber hose. It should tightly squeeze the auto filter fitting and the compressor inlet tube from the refrigerator. You do not need to clamp the hose on the inlet tube with clamps. There is no high pressure.

Moisture protection

An oil-moisture separator is required on the outlet side. It will prevent liquid or oil particles from entering the system. To do this, you can apply a filter from the diesel power system. The connection is made using the same hose. But here it is already necessary to strengthen the connections with a clamp, because there will be decent pressure at the outlet.

Interchange

The diesel filter must be connected to the gearbox inlet. It is needed to decouple the inlet and outlet pressures of the refrigeration compressor. To do this, screw the high pressure outlet of the supercharger into the left and right side of the crosspiece.

We fix the pressure gauge

A pressure gauge is installed at the upper inlet of the crosspiece. We will carry out pressure control on it. You also need to tighten the control relays. Remember to seal the threads.

The importance of relays

This device makes it possible to regulate pressure levels within a wide range. It can interrupt the power supply to the refrigeration motor if necessary. For these purposes, either PM5 or RDM5 is suitable. Both devices will start the motor if the pressure drops, and turn off when it rises. The pressure level is adjusted by means of springs from the top. So, using the big one we set the minimum levels, and the small one - the maximum limits.

Electricity

To make it all work, we connect the zero power wire to the relay, and connect the second wire to the refrigeration motor.

We pass the phase wire through the toggle switch to the second contact of the compressor. This will allow you to quickly turn off the power. Naturally, after connecting, you need to reliably insulate all this.

So we made a compressor for painting a car with our own hands. All that remains is to paint, customize and test it.

Adjustment and first tests

After assembling all this together, you can safely proceed to the first tests. Connect the actuator to the outlet of the unit. Then plug the cord into the outlet, set the relay to the very minimum and turn on the toggle switch. Look at the reading on the pressure gauge. If you are convinced that the relay turns off the motor, you can check the tightness. To do this, use the old-fashioned way with soap.

If everything is fine, then bleed the air from the receiver. When the pressure drops, the relay should start the motor. If everything works, then painting with a spray gun will no longer cause difficulties.

First samples

To test the unit in operation, any unnecessary part will do. There is no need for any surface preparation. It is important to determine the working pressure by trial and error. With the help of experiments, determine the figure at which the pressure is enough for a complete painting without frequent switching on of the motor.

As you can see, it is quite easy to make for painting. This unit can already be fully used for professional activities. The costs will surely pay off soon. A compressor is needed not only for painting work. It has a very wide range of uses. And the semi-automatic system will allow you not to be distracted from work.

Spray guns

In addition to the compressor, airbrushes will also be needed for painting. To do this, you need to purchase a pneumatic model. A correctly chosen airbrush will allow you to successfully carry out the work. The selection of the tool should be based on the characteristics of the compressor.

A spray gun for a car should be selected correctly in accordance with the working pressure. If the choice is wrong, the pressure will drop too quickly, and the quality of the work will be very low. There are several technologies used in this tool. They need to be selected based on the task. For example, modern LVLP technology allows very economical paint consumption with low air consumption, and the surface will be of high quality.

How to set up a spray gun?

High-quality painting is possible only with properly configured equipment. Spray gun adjustment allows you to change the width of the torch, air pressure, and paint supply.

With the torch width, everything is very clear. Maximum Width - Maximum speed, even overlay. For touch-ups, the torch is reduced, but the air supply is also reduced.

Controlling the ink supply is easy too. Many experts open it to the maximum. Air supply, however, can be difficult. For the correct setting, you will need a compressor, instructions for a specific spray gun. You need to use a sheet of Whatman paper and direct a jet from a spray gun at it. If the torch is a figure eight, reduce the pressure. If the paint is applied in droplets, add it. Find the optimal position.

A homemade refrigerator compressor is most often used in tandem with an airbrush or spray gun, since it works almost silently, takes up little space and creates sufficient air pressure. It is also suitable for pumping up the wheels of a car. Next, we will tell you how to make a compressor yourself.

Materials and tools for a homemade compressor from the refrigerator

Compressor. The motor from the old refrigerator is called the compressor, it is the central element of our product. You can see how it looks in the photo: the details of different models may differ, but in general they are similar to each other. The compressor is supplied with a start relay (black box attached to the side), from which a power cable with a plug comes out.

Receiver. The capacity into which air will be pumped by the compressor. Here options are possible: any tight-fitting container with a volume of 3 to 10 liters made of iron or plastic is suitable. This can be an empty fire extinguisher, small tanks, various receivers from trucks, cans from construction fluids.

Hoses. You will need three lengths of hose. Two 10 cm long and one 30-70 cm long, depending on the shape of the receiver and the intended mount. It is convenient to use fuel hoses in a car as they will connect to car filters.

You will also need one hose or tube to connect a ready-made homemade compressor from the refrigerator to the air consumer itself. Here the length, the material depends on the specific needs. If you will be using a compressor with an airbrush, any thin PVC hose (or the one that comes with the airbrush) will do. When using the compressor outdoors, look for a thicker hose.

Clamps. 5 pieces, size 16 or 20 mm.
Tubules. Two pieces - copper or iron, 6 mm in diameter or others - the main thing is to fit the hoses.
One is 10 cm long, the second is 20-50, depending on the size of the receiver, more details below.
Automotive fuel filters. One petrol and one diesel.
Pressure gauge (optional).
Epoxy resin if using a plastic receiver.
A piece of wood board (base). The size depends on the size of the receiver and the motor. They should fit on the board next to each other.
Steel tape or wire. It is needed to fix the receiver.
Self-tapping screws for wood.

Tools:

Sharp knife
Screwdriver
Drill
Pliers.
Metal file (optional).

How to make a compressor yourself

Now directly on how to make a compressor with your own hands.

Three tubes come out of the compressor from the refrigerator: two open and one short, sealed. Plug the compressor into a power outlet and slide your finger near the tubing outlets. The one from which the air blows will be the exit, and the one that draws in will be the entrance. Remember which one is and unplug the compressor. Use a metal file to cut two tubes, leaving 10 cm or more to connect the hoses conveniently. You can bite off with pliers, but you need to make sure that the sawdust does not get inside the tubes. Next, we fix the compressor on the base board, screwing the legs with self-tapping screws (you can use bolts, this is more reliable). Important: we fix the compressor in the same position in which it was fixed in the refrigerator. The fact is that the starting relay on the motor works due to the forces of gravity, on the relay case there is an arrow pointing up. Having secured the compressor, go to the receiver.

Making a receiver. Option if you have a plastic container. We drill two holes in the lid for our tubes. We insert them there, as shown in the figure, and fasten with epoxy resin. On top we leave the ends 2-4 cm long. Now about the length of the tubes. Short (10 cm) will be the day off. The second will be the entrance, we make it as large as possible so that it does not reach a few centimeters to the bottom of the receiver. This is done in order to space the inlet and outlet openings inside the receiver as much as possible for greater air mixing.

If you have an iron receiver, we do the same, but do not glue the tubes, but solder or weld on. You can also weld the nuts, and then screw the fittings under the hoses into them.

The pressure gauge can only be installed in a metal receiver. To do this, we drill a hole in any convenient place on the receiver and solder a pressure gauge in it. A more preferable option: weld a nut onto the hole and screw the pressure gauge into the nut. So in case of failure of the pressure gauge, you can easily replace it.

Now we take a piece of hose (10 cm) and put it on the gasoline filter. If you use hoses for gasoline, then there should be no problems, if you use polyvinyl pipes, then you may have to heat it with a match or hold it in boiling water so that it fits on the filter fitting. We put the other end of the hose on the inlet tube of the compressor. This inlet filter is needed to filter out dust. Here, the use of clamps is not necessary on the connections, since there is no pressure here.

We take the second piece of hose and connect it with the outlet tube on the compressor and the inlet tube on the receiver. We put clamps at the joints.

Now we put the third piece of hose (10 cm) on one end of the receiver outlet tube, and put the other end on the diesel filter. We put on the clamps. An arrow is drawn on the filters (diesel and gasoline) indicating the correct direction of travel through the air filter. Connect both filters correctly. A diesel outlet filter is needed to filter water from the air.

On the outgoing fitting of the diesel filter we put on our working hose going directly to the airbrush, spray bottle, etc.

We fasten rubber feet on the underside of the base board or glue felt pads for furniture. If this is not done, the compressor may scratch the floor during operation - it vibrates. Vibration and noise levels depend on the model of the refrigerator compressor you purchased. Motors from imported refrigerators are almost inaudible, Soviet ones are also quiet, but there are exceptions.

The generated pressure also depends on the model. Ancient motors are more powerful. Most Soviet compressors are capable of pumping pressure up to 2-2.5 bar. The compressor in the photo generates a pressure of 3.5 bar.

Servicing a homemade compressor from the refrigerator

Compressor maintenance consists of regularly changing both filters and draining any accumulated oil in the receiver. But the main factor affecting compressor life is the frequency of oil changes. The first time it is better to change it before assembling the compressor. The motor has a third sealed tube. Cut off the sealed end from it and drain the oil from it by turning the motor over. Pour out about a glass of oil. Now we fill in fresh engine oil with a syringe through the same tube, a little more than the amount that was drained.

Then, in order not to seal the drain tube, we screw a bolt of a suitable size into it. At the next oil change, simply unscrew the bolt.

An air compressor is a device that sprays paint. It is commonly used in workshops and garages for painting cars or inflating wheels. You can purchase such equipment in a specialized store or make it yourself. Unlike factory models, DIY equipment can be more efficient and last much longer. In addition, in terms of financial costs, self-production will be cheaper.

Using an accessory from a car, you can make a compressor of a simple design. This is a ready-made electrical appliance - wheel inflator... The compressor has two positive properties:

Power. The device is capable of creating high pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres, without unnecessary load on the engine. This is the main advantage of car devices. But it will take about 10 minutes to pump up the wheels. Therefore, work is done intermittently, otherwise cheap devices may overheat during this time. The reason is the low performance of car compressors.
Performance. For a unit of time, the device is capable of delivering air quickly and in large quantities. Due to its high performance, the container fills up faster, and the direct use of compressed air increases the flow from the nozzle.

A high-speed engine and a device with a volumetric piston system will help to combine power and performance. To prevent the equipment from stopping during overheating, it is necessary to create additional cooling of the cylinders. Sometimes turbines are used for the working unit. In everyday life, the frequent use of simple devices is not resorted to due to their high cost. In order not to choose between power and performance, use a receiver.

The receiver is a storage capacity... For industrial devices, a steel cylinder is used as a receiver. Quite powerful, but not too efficient compressor slowly fills the bottle. In a short period of time, it is possible to supply a volumetric air flow from the receiver, but only when sufficient pressure appears. After supplying air, it must restore pressure. All devices work according to this principle. For a compressor with low power, an electric motor from a toy is suitable. Such a device is often used to supply air to an aquarium.

Functional homemade compressor

Unlike machines that are made of car accessories, the compressor from the refrigerator runs continuously. This is due to its good power and performance. In addition, in terms of quality, it is not worse than the factory models. And if there is an opportunity to get the components for free, then the money for the manufacture of such a device will take a minimum. The device is designed for painting and blowing, tire fitting, perfectly ensures the operation of pneumatic tools. For the manufacture of a compressor under a voltage of 220 V you will need the following details:

Motor-compressor from an old refrigerator.
Tees, oil filling pipe, hoses, fittings, wall inlets.
A reducer that will monitor the pressure.
Two pressure gauges.
Receiver. For this, a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder is suitable, which must be completely empty. You can weld a homemade container from sheet iron and a thick pipe.
Air filter.
Butter.
Emergency valve.
Start relay and pressure switch.
Metal paint.
Fum tape, hacksaw and engine oil.
Key and syringe.

Compressor assembly consists of several stages:

High power compressor

If the previous version of the compressor is not powerful enough for you, then there are devices with more high pressure and high performance... As a compressor, an internal combustion engine is used here, the crankshaft of which begins to work not from the combustion of fuel, but from the reverse process. In this case, the piston group of the device has a large margin of safety. An electric motor with a power of 3 kW or more is used as a drive, which can be purchased at a low cost. Or apply a working motor by removing the ignition and intake system, exhaust, starter group and gearbox.

This apparatus is capable of creating a pressure of 10 atmospheres. Very noisy.

Medium Power Air Compressor

From a gas cylinder or fire extinguisher a medium power air compressor is created. To do this, connect an old fire extinguisher (balloon) and a powerful autocompressor for pumping the wheels. When making the device yourself, the following rules must be observed:

A container with mechanical damage and corrosive deposits must not be used.
The structure must be well fixed.
Steel lathing is required. This is necessary if the receiver is accidentally bursting.
It is necessary to provide for a pressure reserve. If you plan to increase the pressure to 5 atmospheres, then its strength should be from 10 atmospheres.
In order for the compressor to automatically shut off when the pressure reaches a maximum, an emergency shutdown sensor is installed. Alternatively, a mechanical valve should be installed, which, if necessary, will make an emergency release of pressure.
Do not leave the device with high pressure for a long time if it is used in rare cases. To maintain tightness, 0.5 atmospheres is enough.

Do not neglect safety precautions: do not forget about the installation of emergency sensors. An over-pumped wheel will simply burst, and if a steel cylinder explodes, you can get severe injuries.

Making a compressor with your own hands is easy... Its design can be simple or complex, the main thing is what it is intended for and how much you are willing to spend on its manufacture. But do not forget that the device must meet technical safety requirements.

To make a compressor yourself, you will need a refrigerator, or rather, just one of its parts. Such a device is often used together with a spray gun or airbrush.

It practically does not make noise during its operation, has a small size, while creating a fairly strong pressure. Such a unit is also suitable for inflating car wheels.

What do we need?
1. The motor installed in the old refrigerator is the compressor. In general, all models are quite similar, if there is a difference between them, then it is not significant.

The black box attached to the side is the relay from which the power cable and plug comes from.

2. The capacity into which the compressor will pump air is the receiver. For such purposes, any hermetically sealed iron or plastic 3-10 liter container is suitable. Alternatively, you can use a fire extinguisher, a truck receiver, a small cistern, or a construction fluid can.

receiver

3. To make a compressor, you will need three hoses: a pair of 10 cm and one 30-70 cm long (depending on the characteristics of the receiver). Automotive hoses are ideal, as they will connect to their own, "native" filters.

4. Another hose or tube is required to connect the compressor to the air consumer. The material of the product, as well as its length, are determined by specific needs. If you plan to use the compressor with an airbrush, a thin PVC hose will do. The one that comes with the airbrush can also be used. If you plan to use the compressor outdoors, it is best to find a thicker hose.

To make a compressor you will also need:

Clamps (5 pcs. 16 or 20 mm each);
Copper or iron 6 mm tubes, one at a time (the diameter may be larger, the main thing is that the hoses fit on them). The length of the first tube is 10 cm, the second is 20-50 cm;
One filter each from the car (diesel and fuel);
Epoxy resin, soldering iron, welding machine;
Pressure gauge (optional);
The base for the receiver and the motor (a board made of wood of the appropriate size is suitable);
Steel tape;
Self-tapping screws;
The next set of tools: screwdriver, drill, pliers, knife, metal file.

Making a compressor from the refrigerator

At the outlet of the compressor there are three tubes: a sealed one (the one that is shorter) and the other two are open. It is necessary to figure out which one is the input and which is the output. To do this, slide your finger over the inlets of the tubes, having previously connected the compressor to the network. The one that blows out the air is the exit, the one that draws it in is the entrance. Unplug the compressor and note the position of the inlet and outlet.

Using a metal saw, cut off a couple of tubes, leaving at least 10 cm for easy connection of the hoses. Alternatively, you can try biting off the desired portion of the tubules with pliers. The main thing is to make sure that no sawdust gets inside.

Now the compressor needs to be fixed on a wooden base by screwing its legs with self-tapping screws. For a more secure fixing, we recommend using bolts. You need to fix the compressor in exactly the same position as it was done in the refrigerator. The fact is that the relay functions under the influence of gravity. After fixing the compressor on the wooden base, you can go directly to the receiver.

If a plastic container is used as a receiver, drill two holes in its lid for installing the tubes and insert them there. Secure the tubes with epoxy. Leave 2-4 cm of tubing outside (top of the lid). Use a 10 cm outlet tube.

The second should be much longer and practically reach the bottom of the receiver. It is necessary to distance the inlet and outlet from each other as much as possible - this will ensure the best air mixing in the receiver itself.
For a metal receiver, you need to do the same, with the only difference that the tubes need to be soldered or welded. The nuts can also be welded, and then it is necessary to screw the hose fittings into them.

The pressure gauge is installed only in the iron receiver.

Just drill a hole in it and solder (weld) the pressure gauge. However, it will be more convenient to weld a nut into the hole, and screw the pressure gauge into it. So, if it breaks, you can easily change it to a new one.

Now you need to fix the receiver to the wooden base. Attach with steel tape directly next to the motor. Use self-tapping screws for this.

We go further - we put on a 10-centimeter hose on the gasoline filter. There will be no difficulties with the appropriate hoses (for the gasoline filter), but the polyvinyl pipes may have to be heated in order for them to fit on the filter. This can be done with a lighted match or by keeping them in boiling water for a while. Slide the other end of the hose onto the compressor inlet tube. A filter installed at the inlet is required to filter the dust. In this case, it is not necessary to use clamps on the connections: there is no pressure here at all.

Another piece of hose is required to connect the "inlet" of the compressor to the "outlet" of the receiver. Clamps must be placed on their connections.

We put one end of a 10-centimeter piece of hose on the receiver outlet pipe, the other on the diesel filter. Each of the filters has a directional arrow indicating the direction in which air flows through them, so there will be no difficulties with their correct connection. A diesel filter, which is installed at the outlet, is necessary to filter water from the air.

The working hose connected to the airbrush must be put on the outlet of the diesel filter.

From below, rubber feet must be screwed onto the wooden base. Alternatively, felt pads can also be glued on. Otherwise, the vibrating compressor will scratch the floor during operation. The degree of vibration, as well as the noise emitted by the device, depends on the chosen model: those that are installed in imported refrigerators are practically silent, domestic ones are also relatively quiet, however, there are exceptions among them.

The pressure that the finished device will create also depends on its model. The older the motor, the higher its power. So, the good old Soviet compressors give out up to 2-2.5 bar, and some up to 3.5 bar.

Maintenance

Filters installed in the compressor require frequent replacement. The oil accumulating in the receiver must also be drained. Please note that the key factor that affects the life of a homemade compressor is the frequency of oil changes. The first replacement is best done before assembling the device.

There is a third tube on the motor, it is sealed. It is necessary to cut off its sealed end, turn the motor over and pour out the oil (there will be a glass somewhere). Using a syringe, pour fresh engine oil into the tube, it should be slightly more than you just drained.

In order not to re-seal the pipe through which you poured (poured) the oil, just screw a bolt into it, which can be easily unscrewed at the next oil change.

Today, many different types of compressors are used in everyday life, for which a variety of gases are used. It has the greatest popularity, which is also actively used by car owners for painting a car or pumping up car wheels, since it is less convenient to use a hand pump for the same purposes. Next, we will consider how to make a compressor for painting a car yourself and what the procedure for its manufacture consists of.

DIY homemade compressor

Compressor engine and electrics. Click on the photo to enlarge

A small hole is cut in the chamber itself, which will later house a nipple for an electric or hand pump, which will be used to paint the car. At the entrance, it should be done with a nipple, while the second is glued in without a nipple, a sprayer will be connected to it. The air compression ratio must be fine-tuned empirically. For this, an experimental batch of paint is sprayed onto the surface of the wall or any other. Once a suitable pressure level has been found, the pump is disconnected, and it is important to ensure that the pressure has not changed.

It is also important to keep in mind that the camera needs to be firmly anchored as it will not be stable on the floor. This option will allow you to create a simple tool with which you can easily correct minor flaws in the paintwork on a car.

Homemade compressor with your own hands. Option 2

This case involves the use of a car tire with a tube (or the tube itself) as well as a pump.

Homemade compressor. Click on the photo to enlarge

In this case, using a tube with or without a tire depends on how much pressure you need to get from a homemade car. A small hole is cut into the chamber, into which another nipple is glued (raw rubber is fine for this). One nipple should be equipped with an air injection nipple, and a hose from the sprayer is connected to the second (outlet) nipple.

The pressure is regulated by a barometer built into the pump. Next, you need to spray paint on the wall to determine the required pressure. After that, the hose should be slightly unscrewed from the pump so that the pressure of the sprayer does not noticeably change when pressed. The exception is auto pumps with a built-in drain mechanism, in this case the pressure will be constant.

Manufacturing of complex compressors. Method 1

For the manufacture of a complex compressor, any electric motor from a refrigeration device can be used (if it is burned out, then only the piston mechanism must be used).

An example of a small compressor. Click on the photo to enlarge

To remove it, the body is cut in two places using a hacksaw for metal, and then the fastening bolts are unscrewed and the stator and pump with a rotor are removed.

Due to the fact that there is no need for the rotor, it can be knocked off the crankshaft, but if the structure is equipped with a belt drive to the pump, then pulleys with parallel keys fixed with M6 bolts are put on the pump crankshaft and the engine shaft tail ends.

Keyways must be milled on all shafts and can also be drilled using an optional 14mm bore sleeve. It is put on over the shank, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled exactly along the joint, then the sleeve is removed. In cross-section, the keyways have a semicircular shape, so the same shape should be given to the keys.

How to make a frame for a structure?

The compressor frame can be made using two channels, tied with steel plate crossbars with screws. The pump is fixed to the base with four bolts with bushings (their height can be adjusted directly on site), after which the motor is mounted on the base plate.

The bed allows the V-belt to be tightened by moving it along the adjusting holes. If the air tube is long enough, then there is no need to use a receiver - it can be used as a sump for oil.

Manufacturing of complex compressors. Method 2

Compressor device. Click on the photo to enlarge

For this method of making a homemade compressor for painting, an empty five-liter cylinder for a gas stove is useful. Take the receiver, compressor and wheels, they need to be fixed to the base. The frame can be welded using rectangular tubes with a cross section of 40x25 mm, and in the absence of a tube, steel corners can be used. We attach wheels to the base for the convenience of moving the structure. To adjust the pressure in a working compressor from a refrigeration device, a visual check with a pressure gauge is required.

It is also important to set the limiter to a suitable level. The nipple, pressure gauge and two fittings (one for the inlet, the other for the outlet), are united by a base on a solid metal bar with four drilled holes, which are connected in one channel. The holes should be threaded for each element. The block itself is fixed with two screws on the surface of the frame. Thus, the compressed air is directed to the receiver through a hose.

A slightly shortened valve can be left in the used gas cylinder. The valve should be removed from it, replacing it with a copper tube. From the inside, it must be fitted with a PVC tube leading to the bottom of the receiver. With its help, moisture and oil vapors are separated.

In order for the condensate to drain out of the receiver, it is necessary to make a plugged hole in the bottom; for this, an M8 nut is welded in and a bolt is tightened. Welding can only be started after all traces of explosive gas have been released. To do this, it must be filled with water. The second copper tube, located in the M6 threaded hole in the valve, transfers air to the splitter, which transfers it directly to the consumer (spray gun, chamber, ball, etc.) To start the engine, you can use a standard start relay, pre-attached on the frame. When painting with a gun, you can direct moisture vapor into the hose using a fine fuel filter for a car, it has the ability to retain moisture. Also, before starting work, it is important to check if there is condensation in the receiver. The finished compressor for car painting is almost silent and very compact.

Making complex compressors with your own hands. Method 3

Compressor installation diagram. Click on the photo to enlarge

The role of the main mechanism in this version is played by a two-cylinder compressor from ZIL-130. A muffler from a KrAZ car will serve as a bearing and forming part. In design, it is a receiver. A simple 35x35 mm corner frame is attached to it, on which the corners and mechanisms are located.

There are several crossbars and the aforementioned corners under the receiver, they are connected to the frame with studs, and caster wheels are attached at the ends.

Stage I

To re-equip a KrAZ muffler into a receiver on a compressor unit, it is necessary to weld the inlet and outlet holes with plugs, then drill several holes at the outlet for M14x1 mm thread, and screw two fittings on the sealant into them. Initially, an intermediate receiver based on an oxygen cylinder is mounted.

Its task is to absorb moisture and oils contained in the compressed air. In order for it to work more efficiently, it is necessary to equip a threaded drain hole at the bottom of the device, and then close it with a sealed plug. The balloon can then be removed.

Stage II

A three-phase AC motor is used for the compressor drive. Suitable power is 1 kW with 1380 rpm. with triangular windings attached to it. It should be converted to work with a household power supply (voltage 220 V), but ideally the motor should be single-phase. In order for it to start easily and not overheat, it must be equipped with a starting and working capacitor bank, and then connected according to the indicated scheme.

The starter box can be used from the washing machine. The engine should be started as follows: we press the button for connecting the starting capacitor bank, and then the main starting on the switch. After the engine reaches rated speed, you can release the start battery button. You can stop the engine with the stop button.

Stage III

The capacity of the working capacitor bank should be selected so that the engine does not overheat even after prolonged use. For one-kilowatt motors, a capacitance of 25 μF is suitable. The capacity of the starting batteries in this case should be in the range from 70 to 100 μF. The basic criterion is a fast set of revolutions by the engine. The breakdown voltage of all capacitors must be at least 300V. For better cooling, an impeller of six blades of our own manufacture is installed on the motor shaft. With the help of a V-belt transmission with a three-fold speed reduction, rotation is transmitted to the compressor eccentric from the electric motor.

Reducing the power consumption of the drive, and thereby facilitating its operation, can be achieved by redesigning the compressor. To do this, instead of a standard head equipped with only two exhaust valves, it is necessary to install a duralumin plate for four valves (two inlet and two outlet). The compressor is connected to the transfer case and the receiver using pipelines. They are made of 6 mm bore aluminum. It is fastened with standard aviation fittings, tees, elbows and union nuts with bushings. The transfer case can also be made by yourself.

For this, a block of aluminum is taken with a one-sided blind longitudinal hole with a diameter of 10 mm. The receiver tube will join it through the fitting. You also need to make three more holes: one on the side and two on the top. A pressure gauge is installed in one upper hole, and a safety valve in the other. It should be adjusted to a maximum pressure of 4 kg / cm2 (4 atm). A branch pipe for the outlet of compressed air is mounted in the side hole.

Classical arrangement of assemblies and parts

This arrangement is used in all domestic household appliances. A large and voluminous receiver is used as a base for assemblies and parts. It is also used for twinning motor-compressors. An empty bottle of liquefied gas of 50 liters is adapted for it. Such a cylinder is designed for 16 atm.

Stage I

The remaining propane is removed from the cylinder, for this the valve is unscrewed, the cylinder is placed "on the bottom", and above it is a reservoir with water. Using a thin rubber hose with a metal tube at the tip, the cylinder is filled with water. It displaces gas and all kinds of liquids contained in propane from it to be able to detect gas leaks. The support ring is removed from the cylinder. First, you can cut it crosswise, and then bend the edges until they break off along the weld. This procedure will make the product look more aesthetic.

Stage II

Before starting welding work, the cylinder must again be put “on the bottom” and filled with water to the top. The vapors generated during welding will be cooled as they rise through the water. A supercharger should be placed on top of a cylindrical, horizontal receiver. It consists of paired motor-compressors on a sub-motor frame made of a 30x30 mm corner, a relay, a starter and a terminal block are also placed there. A handle is welded on one of the edges, it can be bent out of a water pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, this will help in moving the unit.

To do this, you can also bring the chassis, under the handle of one edge, set the drain in the form of an inverted letter "P", on the other edge - similar, but with the chassis. The first one is made using a steel corner 30x30 mm, the second (additional) - from a corner with dimensions 40x40 mm. Crossbars, corner brackets designed for holes under the wheel axles should be welded to it along the edges. On the inner side of the brackets, it is necessary to weld M8 nuts, with their help, axles from identical M8 bolts are attached.

Stage III

A hole with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled on the side of the cylinder. An inlet fitting is welded to it in the form of a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. One of the branches of the tee is attached to it with a hose, the other two branches are connected by similar high-pressure oxygen hoses to branch pipes of all motor-compressors. At the connections, tees, hoses and fittings are tightened with clamps.

To remove water and oil from the cylinder during use, a short threaded nipple must be welded on at the bottom of the cylinder. A hole is drilled in the wall along the inner diameter of the pipe, and the fitting itself is "muffled" with a screw plug. The brass valve on the cylinder needs to be reworked, so a hole must be drilled in the base of the part and an M14 thread must be cut in it. A branch pipe should be screwed in there, and a pressure gauge should be attached to it with a special nut. The second branch pipe must be screwed into the valve outlet, and then the consumer's hose must be connected to it.

A homemade compressor, in particular its electrical part, in this case consists of a starter and starting windings taken from the washing machine, a shutdown relay and a terminal block for connecting wires. The latter can be taken from a fluorescent fluorescent lamp. All of the above is mounted on a five-millimeter PCB board and attached to the top of the cylinder. One end of the board must be supported on the stick of the frame of the motor-compressors, the other - on the other support post welded to the surface of the cylinder.

Power is supplied from a household alternating current network (voltage 220V). The electrical circuit and separate starters, depending on the amount of compressed air consumed, allow both motor-compressors to be switched on simultaneously or one of the two. It will allow you to create a high-quality and durable unit with your own hands. The diagram below shows a compressor with a crane from the liquid cooling structure of a Moskvich car instead of a valve.