Creative project of a chess table from an old table. Presentation of the creative project "making a chess table"
Introduction
Formulation and analysis of the project
Information sheet
Marketing research
Search for alternative design options
Product appearance
Material used
Finishing options
Economic appraisal of the product
Design part
Technical drawing of a chess table
Technological part
Safety engineering
Routing
Analysis of project work
Assessment of the finished product
Literature
Justification of the project idea
I have a friendly family. Dad and mom are teachers of the Yasnaya Polyana gymnasium where I study. Our family spends a lot of time together: we relax, read, talk, play chess, receive guests, together we make and decorate our house. My dad is a first-class carpenter, he constantly creates interesting things from wood with his own hands: souvenirs, pieces of furniture (benches, shelves, stools, etc.). Such things give our home comfort and individuality. I really wanted to learn this skill too. In technology lessons, we have already learned how to create simple crafts from wood. And I got an idea.
Our family loves to play chess, we have several chessboards, usually we sit somewhere on the couch or at the table, but there is no special chess table. My idea is to make such a table from oak myself. The knowledge and skills gained in technology lessons will be quite enough for me to implement my idea. Moreover, not long ago my classmates and I made oak benches in technology lessons for students in the elementary grades of our gymnasium.
Information sheet
There are hundreds of the most ordinary things around us, about which we know almost nothing. Only the most inquisitive and inquisitive things can tell their story. And for this you need very little: you just need to think, ask, find. Each thing, like a person, has its own biography, its own amazing destiny. And every thing carries a piece of our history. Life will be interesting and not boring if we ask as many questions as possible and look for answers to them. Even if you learn something new every day, the questions will not disappear. On the contrary, there will be more and more of them.
Table history
The table was the first piece of furniture that ancient people acquired. 
In ancient Rome, the table was the most important decoration of the house. Heavy, made of marble or wood, decorated with carvings, it rested on low legs, similar to lion's paws. The rich Romans feasted around the table, reclining on the floor on soft pillows. There were no chairs then.
And the ancient Greeks, on the contrary, had tables very small, on three legs. Such a table was called a meal, therefore a festive dinner, a feast is sometimes called a meal. The table - a meal during the feast was put to the box - a low sofa with a headboard. After the end of the feast, the table was moved under the bed.
In Russia, in the old days, tables were made wide, stable, on four legs. He was placed in the "red corner" - the most honorable place in the house. The table was moved to the benches - benches that stood along the walls. The top of the table - the tabletop - was covered with a tablecloth in rich houses, and in poor houses they were scraped and washed clean. 
Chess
Chess (from Persian. Chess - sovereign and Arabic. Mat - Sumer) is a game rich in elements of wrestling, scientific thinking and artistic creativity. The game of chess takes place on a square board, states of 64 fields, colored and alternately in light and dark colors; to the right and the player should have a bright field. Each of the two partners has 8 main pieces (king, queen, 2 rooks, 2 knights, 2 bishops), located in the initial position on the extreme horizontal row of the board, and 8 pawns, lining up in front of them. The moves are made alternately; the goal of the game is to checkmate the enemy king, that is, to attack him so that there is no defense against this attack. If one side does not have a single possible move and the king is not in check (i.e., under attack), then a stalemate occurs and the game is considered to be drawn.
Chess originated in the East, apparently in India, in ancient times. The first mention of chess (so-called. chat rank ) in India belongs to the 6th century. At first the game was slow, the figures were mostly sedentary. As we moved from East to West, chess changed. Over time, the queen and the layers acquired range, the pawns began to move (from the initial position) not only one, but also two fields forward.
The first mention of chess in Russia dates back to the 13th century. (in the "Pilot Book"), but they were known, apparently, already in the 11th century. (based on materials from archaeological excavations in Novgorod).
The centers of chess life in European cities in the 18th century. and partly in the 19th century. there were coffee shops, later chess clubs. In Russia, interest in chess was shown by A.S. Pushkin, N.G. Chernyshevsky, I. S. Turgenev, L. N. Tolstoy.
The chess club was first opened in St. Petersburg (1853). Later, the clubs were united into societies and national unions.
Yasnaya Polyana
2008 marked the 180th anniversary of the birth of the great Russian writer of classical literature and our fellow countryman - Lev Nikolaevich Tolstoy. 
Yasnaya Polyana is known throughout the world as a monument to the immortal glory of the genius of Russian classics Leo Tolstoy. For the writer, Yasnaya Polyana was not only a place of life, but a creative laboratory.
In 1921, by the Decree of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee, Yasnaya Polyana was turned into a museum-reserve.
During the Great Patriotic War, the Nazis managed to capture Yasnaya Polyana. For a month and a half of occupation, they managed to plunder and destroy the estate. The Nazis set fire to Tolstoy's house. 
Soviet troops liberated Yasnaya Polyana on December 14, 1941. Already in May 1942, Tolstoy's house was opened to visitors.
At present, the museum-estate of L.N. Tolstoy "Yasnaya Polyana" - one of the largest memorial museums in the world. It is a complex complex consisting of Tolstoy's house, Volkonsky's house, a literary museum, a manor house, which housed forests of extraordinary beauty, meadows, parks, gardens, buildings that have survived from the life of L.N. Tolstoy and his family. 
Many years later, the estate was headed by a descendant of the writer - the great-grandson of V. I. Tolstoy. With his arrival, an even greater transformation of the memorial began.
Not far from the museum, on the former "Kubatskaya Gora", there is a white two-story building of the Yasnaya Polyana gymnasium No. 2 named after L.N. Tolstoy, in which I was lucky enough to study. It was built in 1928, when the whole world celebrated the centenary of the birth of Lev Nikolaevich. In 2008 the memorial gymnasium celebrated its 80th anniversary. 
Marketing research
I analyzed the problems shoppers face when purchasing home furnishings from the merchandise market and found:
Furniture made of laminated chipboard is distinguished by a variety of models, affordable prices, but less original and durable,
Furniture made of natural wood is much less common on sale, it is highly durable and reliable, but, unfortunately, it has a high price, which is practically inaccessible to families with an average income.
Speaking specifically about a coffee or chess table, the price for it fluctuates: from laminated chipboard from 3-5 thousand rubles, and from oak - from 7 to 12 thousand rubles.
Search for alternative design options
Starting to develop the project, I consulted with the technology teacher Alexander Valentinovich. Together we defined design requirements:
Sustainability
Color solution
Preparation time
Unity of style
Material availability
There are various options for implementing my idea.
Idea 1 – round chess table on one leg.
Idea 2 – square chess table on four legs.
Idea 3 – a chess table on one leg.
Perhaps, I will focus on idea 3. I think that a square-shaped chess table will allow you to conveniently place the chess field on the surface of the tabletop, and one leg will allow players and fans to sit comfortably around the table - this will be very convenient. I will add a little free field on both sides, so that it is convenient to place the "eaten" chess pieces.
Product appearance
Material used
For making a chess table, I choose natural wood - oak.
Consider the positive and negative aspects of this material: it is durable, looks beautiful in the product, but it is difficult to handle with cutting tools, there are defects - knots, oblique, cracks, wormholes.
Finishing options
There are various finishes for wood products. I choose - staining the table with stain and varnishing.
Economic appraisal of the product
In the manufacture of table parts you will need:
pine board of thicknesses. 45 mm 0.5 sq.m. ,
oak board thick. 30 mm 0.3 m2,
oak round timber (firewood) - the price is 500 rubles / cubic meter
The price of 1 square meter of 45 mm board is 500 rubles (pine). The price of 1 square meter of oak board 30 mm - 700 rubles. The cost of the required pine material can be calculated as follows:
C1 \u003d 0.5x500 \u003d 250 rubles.
Cost of oak board material:
С2 \u003d 0.3х700 \u003d 210 rubles.
Baluster cost:
C3 \u003d 0.02x500 \u003d 10 rubles.
Total wood cost:
С \u003d С1 + С2 + С3 \u003d 250+ 210 + 10 \u003d 470 rubles.
To cover the product, you need 100 g of stain or 0.1 kg. The price of 1 kg of stain is 120 rubles. Stain cost:
C \u003d 0.1x120 \u003d 12 rubles.
To cover the product with varnish, 0.3 kg of varnish is required. The price of 1 kg of varnish is 200 rubles. Varnish cost:
C \u003d 0.3x200 \u003d 60 rubles.
Gluing the countertop will require 0.1 kg of wood glue. The price of glue is 200 rubles. Glue cost:
C \u003d 0.1x200 \u003d 20 rubles.
The manufacturing time of the table under artificial lighting is 6 hours. The power of the lamps in the workshop is 6x100 W \u003d 600 W \u003d 0.6 kW. Lighting cost:
C \u003d 0.1x6x0.93 \u003d 0.558 \u003d 60 kopecks.
The total costs were:
C \u003d 470 + 12 + 60 + 20 + 0.6 \u003dRUB 562.6 .
Safety engineering
when working on a wood lathe
Hazards at work
1. Injured eyes by flying off shavings.
2. Injured hands when touching the workpiece.
3. Injured hands due to improper handling of the incisor.
4. Injury by splinters of poorly glued, cross-layered, knotty wood.
Before starting work
1. Put on your protective clothing correctly (an apron with sleeves or a dressing gown and a hat: beret or kerchief).
2. Check the tightness of the belt guard.
3. Check the reliability of the Fastening of the protective earth (neutral) to the machine body.
4. Remove all foreign objects from the machine, put the tools in the designated places.
5. Check the workpiece for knots and cracks, trim the workpiece to the desired shape, and then securely fix it in the rotating centers on the machine.
6. Install the hand-hand with a gap of 2-3mm from the workpiece and fix it at the height of the centerline of the workpiece.
7. Check the serviceability of the cutting tool and correct sharpening.
8. Check the operation of the machine at idle speed, as well as the serviceability of the starting box by turning on and off its buttons.
9. Put on safety goggles before starting work.
During work
1. Feed the cutting tool onto the material only after the work shaft has reached full speed.
2. Feed the tool smoothly, without strong pressure.
3. Timely move the hand-hand to the workpiece, do not allow the gap to increase.
4. To avoid injury while working on the machine:
a) do not tilt your head close to the machine;
b) do not receive or pass objects through a running machine;
c) measure the workpiece only after a complete stop of its rotation;
d) do not stop the machine by braking the workpiece by hand;
e) do not leave the machine without turning it off.
After finishing work
1. Stop the machine.
2. Place the tools in their places.
3. Remove chips from the machine with a brush. Do not blow off the chips with your mouth, do not sweep them away with your hand.
4. Hand over the machine to the teacher.
5. Get yourself in order.
Routing
| Sequence of work | Picture | Tools fixtures |
|
| Planing workpieces for countertops |
| Gon |
|
| Sawing workpieces to size |
| ||
| Applying wood glue |
| ||
| Bonding and pressing |
| ||
| Scrubbing and sanding the surface of the countertop |
| ||
| Markup |
| Gon |
|
| Burning out the chess board |
| Wood burner |
|
| Staining (walnut color) on the chessboard |
| ||
| Pile sanding after staining |
| ||
| Light stain (pine color) |
| ||
| Turning table legs on a lathe | Lathe |
||
| Fillet turning | Former |
||
| Sanding the surface of the leg with emery | |||
| Shaped turning of a leg | Former |
||
| Staining table legs | Stain brush |
||
| Marking the lower table support | Gon |
||
| Making a template for fiberboard legs | |||
| Making legs from a template | Jigsaw chisel mallet |
||
| Adjusting the grooves | File square mallet |
||
| Assembling the bottom of the table | Gon |
||
| Final table assembly | Screwdriver drill mallet ruler square |
Assessment of the finished product
Positive aspects of the project:
Project goal achieved
Minimum financial costs
A piece of furniture made by hand is pleasing to the eye and uplifting
All technological operations are available
Allows to use production waste
Original design
Opens up great opportunities for the development of my creativity
Environmentally friendly material used
Originality
Negative sides:
Time-consuming preparation and implementation of the project
An adult is required to make the product
Men who work with wood can do it. The work ahead is not very difficult, but quite time consuming. The result will delight everyone! Such a table will come in handy at home or will be an excellent gift for any occasion.
For the first time, you can try to make a chess table with your own hands from any wood that can be found in the house of craftsmen. If you are confident in your abilities, have been doing woodwork for a long time, then you can use more expensive types of wood. Oak, sycamore and walnut are perfect for, which will be a great gift.
The chess table will look like a chess board, under which there are 2 drawers for chess.
Drawers will surround the frames. The work begins with them. First, the frames are sawn out, and then fastened in folds, which are selected at the ends of the two side walls. When the four "strips" of wood have been assembled into a rectangular box, two grooves for the plywood bottom are again selected on the side walls at a distance of about 4 mm from the lower edges of the walls.
When the parts are prepared, they are assembled, glued, and the resulting box is tightened with clamps and dried.
Next, drawers are made. First, the joints are cut out, which are known to craftsmen as "dovetail". In the four walls of the boxes, four grooves are made, into which the base (bottom of the boxes) is inserted. They work on the same principle as any drawer for a bedside table.
Another element of the craft will be a side - a narrow strip of wood 4-5 mm thick. This side is first attached from the side of the drawers, and then added from the other three sides of the table.
The side sawn "mustache" must be glued in a small miter box.
Drawers can go on wooden "slide", which are attached to the bottom of the product and flush with the ribs of the two bottom crosspieces of the frame of the entire box.
Drawers insert and glue the guide for them. Then you need to attach delimiters to the frames.
The lid, or checkerboard, can be made in two ways. On a 43 x 43 cm board, you can burn 5o squares, painting over those that are necessary with a dark color. Next, the table is varnished several times. This option is suitable for the home.
The typesetting board will look gorgeous on the gift. All grooves in squares are selected in the same direction exactly along the ruler. The groove depth is 2 mm.
The inserts are carefully glued using a roller that will remove excess glue. The lid is left to dry for several hours. The assembled lid is sanded and polished, but before that, two small strips must be attached to the screws and glue from the side of the lower part of the lid, so that it is not "led". The screws must protrude from the inside of the side walls. Then the lid is dried further.
The lid is attached to the box, the table is assembled and decorated with edging around the edges.
The craft is covered with three layers of such varnish, which is suitable for a particular type of wood. After the table is polished with a grinder. You can even attach brass legs to the edges of the table for extra grace. Next, the table is carefully waxed and polished until its gloss becomes matte.
This description can be easily understood by people whose profession or hobbies are associated with wood. Those who find it more difficult to imagine the design can make a chess table by looking at any drawer, for example, a night table. The chess table is made in the same way as the top of the bedroom table. The difference lies only in the attached legs and carved sides of the craft, and the lid, as already mentioned, is easier not to dial out of habit, but simply burn out and varnish.
One of the most beloved board games is, of course, chess! But this intellectual game will be even more interesting if it takes place on the surface of a high-quality and beautiful chess table! Most often, the body of a table for playing chess is made of walnut wood. The front walls of the drawers of the table are edged with walnut veneer, but their side walls are made of oak, and the bottom is made of sycamore. Directly the chessboard on the top of the table is created from squares of white sycamore wood, as well as dark rosewood. Special black inserts are inserted between these squares. But the side walls of the box are decorated with sycamore inserts. After the final polishing, all four types of wood complement each other organically. The result of such painstaking work is a very beautiful chess table!
Direct work process
First step. Frame assembly process
The frames that surround the two drawers of the table are assembled at half-wood joints, which are cut by hand or with a router with a homemade device. After that, the assembled frames are attached in folds, which are created at the ends of the side walls. Then, when all four parts are assembled, you will need to make sure that a rectangular box is formed. Before making the process of gluing the parts on the side walls, approximately at a height of 4 millimeters from their lower edges, you need to make grooves 6 millimeters wide for the plywood bottom. Also, before assembly, in the side walls of the box, you need to mill the grooves for the sycamore inlay strips.
When choosing long slots for inlay inserts, you will need to accurately align the ruler and cutter. Short grooves must be milled along a ruler pressed against the wall. The depth of the grooves should be such that the inserts can protrude slightly above the surface of the side walls, and also so that it is possible to flush them with sandpaper. Before attaching the inserts, the ends will need to be trimmed at right angles using a small sharp chisel. After all the details and the bottom are prepared, you will need to glue the box and pull it off with clamps. Then you need to measure the diagonals and check the correct assembly. After that, you need to leave the entire structure to dry.
Second phase. Moldings
While the glue dries, the box and checkerboard moldings will need to be made. For this purpose it is necessary to use two small cutters, namely a rounding and a jib (that is, an S-shaped).
Table cover molding is created with the same cutters. But at the same time, its rib is rounded off by means of a small hand plane and a skin. Also, before filing parts of the molding "on the mustache", you will need to insert a narrow strip of inlay into it.
Having created the moldings, you will need to saw off four pieces along the length that surround the box. And before gluing in place, you need to saw down their ends "on the mustache". While the glue has not yet hardened, you will need to remove all of its excess, otherwise they will interfere with future polishing at the final stage of work!
Stage three. The process of making and installing boxes
Chess table drawers are created using a dovetail cutter. The front wall of the box is made of walnut wood with a "rim", of walnut veneer. But the side walls are made of oak wood. After that, the sycamore base is attached to the small grooves made in all the walls.
As the main decoration, as well as to protect the plywood, a small side will need to be glued around the entire perimeter of the front wall. It will be a stitched narrow strip, 4 mm thick, made of walnut wood.
Before gluing it in place, in a small miter box, the side will need to be sawed "on a mustache", and the edge of the edging will need to be cut under it with a chisel or a sharp knife.
Drawers can be slid into openings on both sides of the box. That is, they will "walk" on oak sleds, which are glued to the plywood bottom and cut flush with the upper ribs of the lower lintels of the box frames.
After the boxes are in place, you will need to glue their guide, namely a 6 mm oak strip. Also, in order for the front walls of the boxes to be flush with the frames, you need to attach the stops!
Fourth stage. Table cover - checkerboard
The chessboard is created from 50mm squares of sycamore and rosewood. These squares are glued onto 6 mm plywood with dimensions of 430 * 430 mm. Before sawing into squares, it is necessary to cut the sycamore and rosewood strips to a width of 50 millimeters, and then flatten them to a thickness of 3 millimeters. After that, you will need to glue all the squares. Then, using the inlay cutter, you need to create all the grooves in the same direction. Each pass must be created exactly with a ruler! Even though the grooves are only 2 millimeters deep, it is best to create them in two passes.
The black inlay inserts need to be attached with glue, which must be applied to the bottom edge. Otherwise, excess glue will be squeezed out and thereby spoil the surrounding wood. This work is best done with a wallpaper roller! After the glue is completely dry, using fiber sanding, it will be necessary to sand the inserts flush with a sandpaper.
During the grinding of the inserts, very fine dust will form, which can very easily contaminate the wood of the white sycamore! In order to avoid this, before creating the grooves, parts of the plane tree will need to be covered with two or three layers of shellac polish.
After the inserts have been ground in one direction, the same procedure will need to be repeated with inserts that go in the other direction. At the intersection of the planks, the joints will need to be processed very carefully!
Having created a completely chessboard, it can also be polished. This is easiest to do before gluing in place of the edging.
When the glue is completely dry, the plywood base may lead a little! In order to prevent this, two oak strips will need to be attached to the underside of the checkerboard, with glue and screws. These planks must be positioned so that the screws screwed into the plywood protrude outward from the inside of the side walls of the box. If they are precisely stitched to the thickness of the upper lintels of the frames, then they will serve as bumpers that will not allow the boxes to fall out in the open position.
The right front square above the drawer should be white. This will determine the direction of the bumpers under the board. Having completely assembled the lid with the board, you will need to saw off the edging elements along the length, and then glue them in place.
Fifth stage. Finishing process
The created chess table must be covered with a 50/50 mixture of linseed oil and turpentine. You need to apply this mixture with a swab. This mixture will give a slight darkening of the walnut, but it will not affect the inlay!
After the applied mixture is completely dry, using a brush, you will need to apply three layers of pale polish on the table. Then you need to sand the surface between the layers. The last layer is polished using a grinding machine. After that, when the polishing is completely completed, the cover will need to be glued to the side walls. Then, in the corners, you need to attach the brass legs. After that, the entire created table will need to be covered with wax and also polished to a matte sheen!
That's it, the beautiful chess table is completely ready!
Good luck!
Chess table (1)
For its manufacture, planks with a thickness of 15-20 mm are required. If the table is light, then the boards for it can be made of wood with a pronounced texture: pine, spruce, oak, beech, larch, etc. For a dark table, you can use boards made of aspen or birch. In the process of work, these rocks are covered with a stain, pasted over with veneer or textured paper, film.
The manufacture of a table begins with the manufacture of legs. Their height depends on the height of the table, the width of the lower transverse sidewall and the width of the side wall of the underframe. There are four legs, and they can be made of planks or chiseled (2). Flat legs have one curly edge. And so that they turn out to be the same, when marking the curly edge, you must use a template cut from cardboard. Then, at one and the other end of the boards, add 20-30 mm per thorn. Only after that the boards are sawn off lengthwise.
Cut out the curly edge using a chisel. To facilitate the work, a mallet is used. Then the cut out leg is cleaned with a file and sandpaper. Having finished processing the edge of the leg, the thorn is filed. On the chiseled legs, the spikes are machined directly on a lathe.
The lower tsarga is cut out of a plate, the length of which is equal to the width of the table cover (3). At the sawn-off tsarg, figured recesses are made at the extreme upper corners. Then, two grooves for the spikes made on the legs are hollowed out on the upper edge. The accuracy of these connection elements is very important as it affects the strength of the entire product. In the middle part of these side bars, grooves are hollowed out from the inside for the lower longitudinal side bar (5). Its upper edge is also curly. The length of the longitudinal side bar is equal to the length of the underframe.
The sides of the underframe are made of planks of the required width. The fact is that the capacity of the drawers depends on the width of these sidewalls. The length of the sides should be 40 mm shorter than the width of the table top. This is to ensure that the front wall of the drawer does not protrude beyond the lid.
In the middle part of these sidewalls, a longitudinal side bar is attached using a spike connection. Its width is equal to the sidewalls, and the length of the lower longitudinal sidewall (4). The grooves for the legs are hollowed out from the underside of the sidewalls. The distances between them on the lower sidewall and the upper sidewall must be equal (otherwise the legs will not be parallel to each other).
They begin to collect the table like this. Having greased the nests on the lower transverse side with glue, the legs are inserted into them. Then, turning these parts over, they are inserted into the slots previously greased with glue on the sidewalls of the underframe. In this way, other legs with tsars are collected. Only after that the lower and upper longitudinal sidebars are inserted. With this assembly, there must be a right angle between the transverse and longitudinal drawers. The assembled structure is turned upside down with the lower tsars and small round (2) or rectangular (3) bosses are glued to them. They allow to protect the lower drawers from damage and make the table more stable.
The dried table structure is returned to its original position. Thin guide rails are attached to the inner underside of the underframe sidewalls. The drawer (6) rests on them. The sides of this box (except for the front one) are made of thinner planks. And the front wall in its width and thickness is equal to the plate from which the sidewall of the underframe is made. The length of the front wall is equal to the width of the underframe, measured along the outer edges of the sidewalls. Then grooves are cut out in the finished wall for the sidewalls of the box, which should fit quite tightly. The box is assembled using glue, nails or screws, while the front wall is attached to the sides only with glue. This will keep the front plane of the wall clear of the anchorage points. The bottom of the box is cut out of thin plywood or fiberboard.
The table cover is attached with dowels and glue (4).
Let's consider another design of the chess table (as for the chessboard, we'll talk about it a little later).
To make a table of this design, you will need four square bars (legs will be made of them), several 20 mm thick planks on the sidewalls and the transverse drawer side of the underframe, the front wall of the drawers.
Smoothly stitched bars for legs are sawn off to a length that depends on the height of the table, its type (magazine or regular) and can vary from 400 to 800 mm. Then they cut and sawed off along the length of the sidewall and the longitudinal tsarg of the underframe. Moreover, the length of the sidewalls should be 30-40 mm shorter than the width of the table cover. This is to ensure that the front wall of the drawer does not protrude beyond the table top. The length of the longitudinal side bar depends on the overall dimensions of the table and on the need to have hanging edges of the lid. The width of these planks affects the capacity of the drawers: the wider they are, the larger the drawer. But the most optimal dimensions for the width of these boards can be in the range of 100-150 mm. Having made these parts, mark and saw down the joints of the legs and planks of the underframe (2). First, the legs are connected to the sidewalls, using glue and screws screwed into the legs from the inside of the sidewalls. After collecting these parts, insert the longitudinal sidebar with glue into the grooves made on the sidewalls of the underframe. Then the screws are tightened from the outside of the sidewalls. Such a connection of the elements of the table will allow you to get a rigid and durable structure.
When the glue is dry, thin drawer guides are attached to the inside of the sides of the underframe.
The length of the front wall of the drawer is equal to the width of the underframe, measured along the outer edges of the sides. Then, quarters are cut along the edges of this plank (3). They are made in such a way that the width of the drawer is equal to the internal size of the underframe. The sides of the box are made of thin planks and fastened to each other and to the front wall with glue and screws. The bottom is cut out of thin plywood or fiberboard.
The table cover is attached using four metal corners. They are screwed on the outside of the underframe sidewalls near the legs.
All these tables, if they are made of textured wood and will be left light, are varnished several times. This will give the wood a special decorative effect and attractiveness. If necessary, the tables can be pasted over with veneer or textured paper, film. Only in this case, all the details of the table are first pasted over separately, then they are cleaned and only then they are assembled into a product and varnished.
On the lids of the chess tables, you need to make a set of dark and white cells. This is one of the simplest, but nevertheless very expressive geometric compositions.
The most interesting thing about this set is that you don't need to cut out a single square here. The set is carried out using a small technological secret: not squares are cut, but strips (equal in width) from two contrasting breeds. The width of the stripes should be equal to the size of the pattern cell. Since there are eight rows of cells on the playing field, in order to obtain them (ultimately) it is necessary to cut nine stripes - four dark and five light or vice versa. And the length of the stripes should be equal to eight sizes of the width of the same stripes. These strips are glued in alternating order with their longitudinal sides to each other. The result is a mosaic field resembling a multi-colored material. This is a semi-finished chess set. The glued plane is divided by pencil lines across the stripes into cells, each of which should be equal to the width of the strip. According to these marks, the entire field is cut across into checkered dark and light stripes. Now they are shifted relative to each other by the size of one square so that opposite the black spot in one stripe there is a light one in the neighboring stripe. This stage is very interesting, effective in terms of the result, and it must be carried out with the son. Here, like in no other works, in a few minutes the striped plane turns into a checkered chess field - into the final result that, without knowing such a secret, could not have been obtained soon. This example will once again show the child that in order to achieve the goal, sometimes it is necessary to look for unusual creative approaches and solutions that can bring the final result closer.
After gluing, in this order, it remains only to cut off single protruding squares.
Thus, a chessboard of 8 × 8 cells is obtained. The chessboard should be very neatly cut from all sides along an even ruler with a knife (saw) and framed in several rows with thin veins of light and dark veneer. Further work on the chessboard will depend on the shape of the table top. If the lid is square (and the design of the proposed tables does not exclude such a lid shape as well), then it will be enough to give a strip of frieze made of plain veneer along the perimeter of the checkerboard field. The width of the strip is from 1.5 squares or more, depending on the size of the table.
This frieze can be left clean, but you can give it a smooth floral ornament, which, as it were, will smooth out, calm down a too clear and contrasting chess field. If the lid is rectangular (as in our case), then there is room on both sides for placing the won pieces. These planes can be decorated in a variety of ways: with floral motifs (bouquets of flowers, buds, etc.), silhouettes of elegant chess pieces or intertwining ribbons of complex ornament, etc. can be arranged.
The prepared set is veneered onto the table top plate (before assembly). If it is not possible to perform this operation in factory conditions on technological equipment (now more and more cooperatives are emerging to help the population), then veneering must be done manually using a lapping hammer on glutin (bone or flesh) glue. This plywood will be laborious (given the size of the set area), and only the father can do it. True, if his partner is a high school son, then he can be involved in this work. It will be necessary to veneer the edges. They are veneered either on the same glue, rubbing the veneer with a hammer, or on PVA glue using a hot iron.
We have already talked about how to grind the sets. A transparent protective coating can be made with matt varnish.
If you want to make the surface of the table shiny, we advise you to turn to parquet varnish. The first layer (primer) can be done with nitro varnish. Sand (after drying) the surface of the table with fine-grained sandpaper, wipe off the dust and apply the final layer with parquet varnish. It is good because, until it dries, it manages to spread evenly over the surface of the table; when dry, it does not pull together the top film. Parquet lacquer is easy to use, as it resists abrasion well, and the game of chess is the constant movement of figures on a plane. As for the underframe, it can also be coated with nitrocellulose varnish.
- How to make a chess table yourself?
- Joining a checkerboard with a table top, table decoration
You can make a piece of carpentry art like a chess table yourself. At the same time, it will not be necessary to use it for its intended purpose, since this original chess table, made with your own hands, will perfectly decorate any of the rooms of your house. In the process of creating this decorative piece of furniture, it will be possible to learn how to correctly assemble a surface divided into uniform squares of different colors using multi-colored veneer plates.
The original chess table will be an excellent interior decoration.
As a material with which you can successfully build a table with your own hands, you should use:
Such a homemade sliding chess table, at which you can play chess and drink tea at the same time, can be made independently according to the scheme.
- etomy plates, the thickness of which will be about 3 mm. As for the sizes, they should be enough to get 32 \u200b\u200bsquares of 4x4 square meters. cm;
- ebony plates, again no more than 3 mm thick, in an amount sufficient to obtain 32 squares, each of which is 4 × 4 square meters. cm;
- erable plates, the thickness of which is about 3 mm. Its size should be sufficient to obtain 4 rectangles, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich is 11.5 × 56 sq. cm;
- the residual material is not thrown away, since its amount will be sufficient for the manufacture of molds from thin strips;
- melamine plastic sheet with an area of \u200b\u200babout 1 sq. m;
- 4 strips 8 mm wide and 70 cm long, which will be needed for inlay;
- plywood sheet 3 mm thick;
- board or fiberboard sheet, the thickness of which is 19 mm,
- a pair of squares, whose area is 52.2 sq. cm;
- 4 rectangles, whose area is 10x56 cm;
- 4 pine blocks, 6.2 x1.5x52.2 cm in size, which will be used for making braces;
- 6 pine laths, the dimensions of which are 3x0.8x80 cm;
- 4 pieces of ebony, measuring 4x4x7 cm;
- etoy boards, from which you can make 2 boxes;
- 4mm plywood sheets, 2 pieces, 18.6 x26.3 cm each. With their help, the bottoms of the boxes will be created;
How to make a chess table yourself?
In the process of designing such a piece of furniture, it is necessary to be guided by strict drawing data, so that unnecessary errors in calculations and installation can be avoided. The first step is to choose what kind of outside surface you want for your chess table. Prepare 2 types of plates, from which the surface of the checkerboard will be divided into squares. One of the plates should be made of dark etimoya wood and the other of light wood.
The thickness of the plates is approximately 3 mm, while it is important to pay attention to the fact that they do not have any defects on their surface.
The table shows the dimensions of the blanks and the material for making the table.
In order to obtain wide checkerboard stripes equal to 4 cm, it will be necessary to cut out the corresponding plates using an iron saw taken from a plane and a ruler. Bars 4 cm wide can be used as reliable guides. In order to accurately perform this operation, it is recommended to fix the plate and the ruler on the workbench with two carpentry clamps. After receiving strips of both colors 4 cm wide, it remains to cut out squares of 4x4 cm from them.To do this, you can use a sharp blade, without teeth, and a form made from chipboard, the cut area in which will slightly exceed 4 square meters. cm.
This form is placed on top of the strips, and along it the plates are cut into squares using a blade and a hammer. As a result, you will quickly and relatively easily get the correct squares for a checkerboard with clean cuts and without any burrs or irregularities.
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Laying out the cells in a checkerboard pattern and creating a board for the table with your own hands
Places on the board, which should be light, are sealed with masking tape, and then paint is applied. Once dry, the tape can be removed.
Having received exactly 64 squares, 32 light and dark colors each, you must arrange them, as required by the rules of the game, in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, you should take a melamine plastic panel as a base plate, on the surface of which strips of adhesive paper are fixed so that, in turn, you can fix the squares one by one on them, photo 2. It is worth paying special attention to the fact that the squares should be glued like this, so that no gaps are formed between their sides and corners. Then move on to decorating the edges of the checkerboard you create. This can be done using stripes 8 mm wide, which are located along the edges of the borders of the checkerboard. They need to be fixed in the same way as was done with the cells of the chessboard.
Do not forget to cut out the joints of the corners on the strips at an angle of 45 degrees. Before setting these boundaries completely, first try them on the board to be sure that the structure is symmetrical and uniform. After gluing these elements, you will receive the structure shown in photo 3, which will subsequently be built into the table.
1 is a general view of a table with plank legs; 2 - chiseled legs; 3 - adjustment of the plank legs to the tsars; 4 - fastening of the longitudinal side bar; 5 - fastening of the lower longitudinal side bar; 6 - drawer
The main parts of the table will be a support panel 10 cm thick, 4 end surfaces on which the table legs will rest, 2 legs and one connecting part. It will be convenient to make them from fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm. In order to cut out the details for the table with your own hands as even and beautiful as possible, it is better to first create templates according to which the legs and other parts of the table will be cut with your own hands. Since the legs and transverse parts of the table are symmetrical, the templates can be made half, along which the marking is made on the finishing material, and then they are cut out on the workbench using an electric band saw. Then proceed to create a platform, the thickness of which is 10 cm. This can be done by taking 2 chipboard panels with a thickness of 19 mm and an area of \u200b\u200b52.5x52, 5 cm, which will become integral parts of the support. To increase its thickness to 10 cm, it will be necessary to use 4 more pine blocks measuring 6.2 x1.5 cm and 52.2 cm long, which are installed between 2 panels, connecting them with nails. The edges of the resulting box are covered with plates cut from fiberboard.
