Poppop boat or boat with steam engine. Reactive vapor alogen: how to build it yourself how to make a wooden boat with a motor
In Soviet times, children had no Barbie, PlayStation and radio-controlled helicopters. But so much interesting could be found at the nearest plant, at a construction site or, sorry, on a landfill. Seliver, carbide, metal chips, finally, the same copper tubes and brass plates. According to the Vote Recipe, the water consuming engine was built as follows: with a large battery type D, the shell was filmed, the central electrode was removed and all the contents. The shipyard was interested in a zinc cup. The upper two-thirds of the cup spilled with a hacksaw, the edges were twisted with scissors, in the resulting "saucepan" two holes under the copper tubes were drilled. The tubes were soldered by the usual tin. A round lid came out of the brass plate and also soldered to the "saucepan". Then the cover was slightly melted to obtain a movable membrane. Saving a tube, you could force the membrane to click. The boiler is better to do as little as possible: the smaller the volume of the water inside the engine, the faster it will start.
Pipelines makes sense to have a ship so that a significant part of the pipes is below the Waterlinia. Water in this case plays the role of the cooler. The faster the pairs are cooled in the pipes, the more reliably the engine works. Constructing the ship housing, remember that the steel tubes from the "eight" weigh a lot. The volume and displacement of the boat must correspond to the solid mass of the engine and the candle.
Before turning on the engine should be fully filled with a syringe. The design has exactly two tubes, and not one to facilitate the "refueling": while water is poured into one nozzle, the air comes out of the other. The ship is built so that both tubes are constantly immersed in water. When a candle is put under the boiler, the water is heated in it and begins to boil. The pairs formed at the same time pushed water from the boiler. Passing through the tubes, the water cools, the pressure in the boiler falls, and the engine sucks the water back. Thus, in the pipes there is a constant reciprocating movement of the water column.
The bay into the engine is a little ink, we were able to consider the waterball stream in all its glory. The photo shows how far the steam engine is collected. It is not surprising that with such a traction ship rapidly rushes forward.
The simplest steam water can be done at all without a boiler. It is enough to bend the pipe into several turns right above the candle on the boiler's manner. The boiler is done for special effects: the bending membrane makes a loud tharanching sound. Despite the fact that the water pillar makes movements in both directions with an equal amplitude, the engine pushes the boat forward. This is due to the stamps that all the water is pushed out of the tubes in one direction, and sucks from all sides.
Attempts to find a replacement rare today with copper tubes and brass plates led us to the next decision: the brake line was the brake line from the car VAZ 2108. It is perfect in diameter, soldering well and, most importantly, is sold in a love car shop.
Steam water can be called a two-stroke engine. On the first time, water in the boiler heats up and reaches the boiling point. The resulting steam pushes water from the boiler and drives it along the pipes. On the second tact, hot water in the pipes is cooled, the pressure in the system drops, and the water is again sucking into the boiler. Water release occurs in a strictly defined direction, and suction - from all sides. Therefore, on the first clutch, the ship is pushed forward, and on the second it does not leave back.
The membrane is a delicate matter, in all senses of the word. With such a small diameter of the cover, its material must be very soft and supple. After several unsuccessful attempts, we made a membrane of an aluminum cup from the cheapest brazing candle. It is very thin, soft, sounds good. The only minus - aluminum does not roll. Instead of soldering, we applied a 10-minute two-component epoxy glue. Concerns about its strength in tough temperature conditions were not justified. If the engine works correctly, the cup is not very strong - such is the thermodynamic cycle of the water.
Engine work is impressive. Its power is sufficient to push the ship forward, creating behind the water flows visible by the naked eye. Honestly confess, we failed to get from the car a really bright sound, as in the grandfathers. So, it seems that the membrane material still stands to experiment. Sincerely wish good luck in the search for brass records!
In the yard, summer and you can go with the kids to walk at the rivers, enjoy the fresh air, and at the same time put the ship to the water that we suggest to make it right now.
We need:
- 5-volt engine from the CD drive;
- three finger batteries;
- tape;
- Styrofoam;
- cover from plastic bottle;
- two pieces of plastics;
- Two washers.
First of all, it is necessary to make a screw. To do this, in the lid, we make slits in places where there is no thread. These places are arranged symmetrically, therefore, the screws will also be arranged symmetrically. Make the slots will be the usual stationery knife.
Now in the slits you need to insert pieces of plastics, fixing them with hot glue, having received a blade.
The resulting screw is glued to the motor.
Let us turn to the boat housing that will be made of a piece of foam. On a piece of foam, you need to mark the places that will be cut. It will be anterior triangular part, recess for the battery compartment, as well as a place for blades with the engine.
Cut all unnecessary parts.
1.5-volt finger batteries can be connected sequentially. By connecting three batteries, you can get 4.5 volts. You need to connect the batteries as shown in the figure below. Please note that the washers should create contacts between the extreme and medium batteries.
We carry out the batteries with a tape, without forgetting to bring two wires - minus and positive.
It remains to collect all together with the clergy pistol.
Overture
Three years ago, under the influence of friends, carp fishing was carried away. They taught me to catch, they told all the secrets. Send the first carps. And now, once on fishing, I saw a fisherman with a carp boat with an envious eye. I really liked this ship. Asked how much it costs - he burned me very much (1000 $ "for a minute"). Googled - turned out to be 100 $, but not that. In addition, in my head, a plan for a large-scale self-catering was repaired, so that he was to upload himself and the Son interest.
The first decision was made: make a boat to explore the bait with their own hands. Sliced \u200b\u200bforums on RC modeling, estimated the estimate - scratched the turnip. It went down the poor about $ 150 on components. Yes, and the task seemed to me too easy (I was naive for me naive).
The second decision was made: make your own hands the most budget boat, but ideally for free. Honestly, friends, not from greed, but from sports interest.
So, the concept was developed: I decided to make a boat on DTMF control. This is when you call from one mobile phone (transmitter) to another (receiver), and when you press the keys, "picking" of different colors. On the second phone (receiver), it remains only to program the conversion of this "picking" in different control commands, depending on the resulting tone (one signal, the motor starts, the other - stops, the third - rotates).
See how simple? I decided to convert the signal using the Arduino Uno board. Consider this question in detail in the Electronics section. And let's start with the housing.
Housing
Initially, I expected to use the housing from the old toy. Son (he, so to speak, was in a share) with ease presented the old pirate frigate on the wheels. But with the preliminary weighing of the intended equipment (battery, motor, electronics, etc.) it turned out that the frigate lacks load capacity.
Unfortunately, I could not find in stores suitable in the form of a toy for an adequate price. And I decided to make a body for my fishing boat on my own. Again, spilling many forums and articles, decided that the material will serve fiberglass and epoxy resin.
The manufacture of the housing for the ship I started from building a blank, which then planned to apply materials. Dick did this: from the fiberboard and cardboard made the core. Passed it just hot glue to the List DVP.
Then the outfit began to fill in plaster (alabaster). Little Lifehak: Add a bit of vinegar to alabaster, and it will be slower to stick more, but at the same time there is an intensive highlighting of gases, so do not forget to ventilate the room.
When the Dwarca dried, I corrected it a little and pasted with paper sketch, so that it was easier to separate it from the body.
Fiberglass, which I used, is also called glass. The seller said that it is better to use it for curves forms. Epoxy is the simplest.
And again a minute of TB: it is necessary to work in well-ventilated rooms. I'm not kidding. It is not you in a match box to interfere with a couple of drops. A couple of times above the housing of the fishing boat bent during the application of the epoxy layer, and then he could not breathe three days and his head was sick.
I inflicted such 2-3-4 layers. Previously, I was surprised in self-delicate workers: really you can not count two or three layers you inflicted. It turns out that during operation sometimes you have to put the layers of the brass, and sometimes it is necessary to bring marks. Therefore, it is better to simply focus on the thickness of the hull walls. In my fishing boat, an average of a housing wall has a thickness of about 3 mm.
At this stage, the boat to explore the bait to the point of fishing was called "Pasta Monster", because The fibers of the glass fiber sticking out in all directions.
And also a lot of coarse sandpaper. Further, the process is understandable: Trem, we shit, quench, shit. And so, until you understand that this is the best that you are able to make your own hands.
When I removed the housing with the blanks, its weight was 1 kg 200 gr. What is pretty good for such rigidity and such a carrying capacity.
Beautiful when the water can be on the spot (in the next section described). Painting spent in three stages: soil and two layers of paint "Yacht enamel PF-167".
Motor. Coupling. Deadwood. Screw
In this chapter, I will talk about what is the most frightening in shipbuilding for beginners - about homemade Daidwood (waterproofing shaft) and that is on both sides of him: about the screw and about the motor. Well, how to connect all this with your own hands, so that it worked reliably and reluctantly on the bait boat.
Homemade Deadwood for a boat consists of such components:
- The housing is a thin-wing tube from the old refrigerator. External diameter 5mm, internal - 4.5mm. The edges had to manually roll out, so that the bearings with an outer diameter of 6 mm were stood on both sides.
- The shaft is a stainless steel rod with a diameter of 3 mm. On the one hand cut the M3 thread for attaching the propeller.
- Bearings 3 * 6 * 2 mm. Bearings ordered Chinese. In the photo there were bearings with anthers, and upon arrival it turned out that instead of the anther there is only some kind of wire. Chinese money returned money, but I decided to already put those that is.
- Selns. Their role is performed by the insulating bushings of the TO-220 (radio components, if that).
The photo above and the video below shows how the Deadwood is going.
When working, oil near the bearings can be heated and becomes more liquid, so I decided to add more glands from simple rubber risks 3/5 mm. They are inserted right in front of the bearing.
I used Litol-24 as a thick lubricant. There are several nuances in the filling of Daidwood. You need to score the case of Daidwood with lubricant so that inside there is only lubricant, and not half of the lubricant, half of the water. For this, the syringe is cut off the nose, so that the straight tube is. The piston is removed. And such a handset is simply inserted into the barrel (or what you have) with lubricant on the very edge. Then the piston is inserted into the syringe, and only then we take out the syringe completely clogged with lubricant without air.
As for the coupling, I consider it my duty to report that the clutch must be taken by the factory. Checked a lot of self-made rubber and metal options, but until I bought a normal coupling and did not put the engine in the plumb, there were constant problems with reliability and beating.
When choosing a motor, I was sank by prices, so I began to look for alternatives. Found the most powerful of cheap is an electric motor 540-4065.
I think that it was possible to even take a little less a motor, but I do not affirm, because I did not check my bait ship with more weak engines. Perhaps it will come before that case, in order to increase the reserve of the course from one charge of the battery.
Rowing screw did it alone from brass with a thickness of 1 mm. Cut three identical blades in the form of a piglet ear. And they soldered them to the bronze rack with a thread M3. It turned out well, but I advise you to buy, or have to do to fit for proportional spike blades.
After the first tests it became clear that everything works well, but under the same condition: if the Daidwood has a plot point not far from the screw. In my case, the screw is located on a solid distance from the outlet of the Daidwood from the corps. I decided to make fixation relative to the body of the water vehicle, having sold three MZ nuts to Daidwood and connecting water veins and Daidwood.
Water vehicle and swivel mechanism
When designing your bait shoe, I simultaneously correlated the size of the propeller, a cylinder for a water vehicle and a rotary mechanism. As a result of the search for a variety of options, it opens on a cylinder from a deodorant. The outer diameter of the cylinder is about 42 mm, which is 4 mm more circle of the screw, and 3 mm. Less diameter of the rotary mechanism, which will be described below.
After 153 measurements, I trembled with a hole in the finished body of my boat.
Vodeta pasted on hot glue. Made a recess for the fence of water. I decided to add a piece of aluminum perforation for the additional stiffness of the cylinder, since the metal in it is quite thin and easily fed at low effort.
Next, I attached a motor mounting engine to the hijacker housing. It did it in this way: the screw and a rigid coupling attached to Deidwood. The coupling is a motor fixed in the mount. After that, I put a boat in this position, so that Deyadwood took the most vertical position, while the motor turns out to be in free hanging.
It remains a little glue to fix the correct position of the attachment, and after its cooling, the amount of glue is already needed for reliable fixation.
For the "Steering" in his fishing ship I used a plastic jar from feed for aquarium fish. This jar, by the way, was separated by jumpers into four parts. I have everything left to carefully cut and post to connect to the balloon of water.
The lever for rotation is made of a fiberglass thickness of 3 mm. Cut out the approximate shape, and then supplied to the file and sandpaper the recess on the shape of a jar from feed.
He took the needle from the umbrella (thickness 2 mm.) And he made it in a moisture protective boot for the thrust (33x12mm).
The end of the spokes bent at an angle of 90 degrees and started in the SG-90 servo.
Electrical circuit
Everyone remains on the ground and no one runs away. There is nothing to be afraid. Below is a complete electrical circuit of the fishing boat. The scheme is big, because detailed, but now everything will become understandable.
Dotted lines are allocated separate blocks. Some of them can not be used at all, and some replace inexpensive purchased analogue. Only one scheme may seem difficult to you, but you don't even need to understand it, and you can, if you wish, you can and what you do not understand.
Download and download the scheme in a large format can
So, the control will be implemented from the keyboard in this way:
And in the table below you can see what pin on Arduino Unan responsible for which team. The words of Pin, Arduino, Skatch are also afraid not to decline in detail. In the "Through:" column, the relays are shown when pressed to a specific phone key.
The diagram of the DTMF decoder is easy to implement only 3 resistors and 1 condenser. I was able to put it all in the mini jack plug.
Further is more complicated. We will discuss the scheme of Arduino Uno, Arduino Nano and the relay for Arduino boards. But still, the scheme is drawn in detail. And most connections of the same type. For example, the K1A-K6A relay is a relay for Arduino with a nutrition of 5 V. To each relay, three wires are suitable: + 5V, GND (2 wires for power supply) and alarm.
When the phone receives a DTMF signal (let's say, pressing the "3" key), it transmits it through the input pin A0 on the Arduino OHO fee. There is an instantaneous transformation of this signal into the control signal, which is applied to the desired outgoing IDU, for example, PIN 6, and the K3A relay is triggered, thereby running the scheme to turn on the "Smallhead" mode.
The second board is Arduino Nano. It is using exclusively for turns. Incoming signals for Arduino nano are outgoing signals from 7.8.9 Pins Arduino UNO. But before entering the Arduino fee inlet, these signals are inverted by the OR1-OR3 operator with a logical one on zero, respectively, from zero per unit.
This complexity is due to the fact that the sketch for turns works without failures only in this order. That's all; The analysis of this scheme is completed.
In stock were Opel Kr293kp9a. The block from the Opel looks like this:
In this block, their three. The smallest and simple is a stabilizer on 9 V. It is called LM7809. It gives at the exit exactly 9 volts, which are powered by Arduino Uno and Arduino Nano.
Two regulators are used to set a comfortable speed "full course" and "small stroke". First, for the "Full move" mode, you can do without a regulator and simply soak the motor in this mode with a battery voltage. So even increase the reliability of the system. Secondly, such regulators can be asked to solder someone who is not afraid of the soldering iron if you have such a phobia. Or, in the end, explain in the radio engine store, what power motor, what voltage you want to power, and the regulator will pick you.
Motor Management Scheme:
The motor control scheme decided to do on the relay. This is primarily due to the fact that they were in stock.
I will not chat. For unprepared people, this scheme is complex. But I will tell you at least for what it is created. Perhaps many will become clear and how it works.
Further, the same scheme is presented in two types: the first is more convenient for installation, and the second is for analysis, how the blocking works. Locks are made in such a way that when the reverse is turned on, it is impossible to turn on neither small or complete forward.
When the boat floats forward, it is impossible to turn on the reverse. To change the direction, you must stop the boat by pressing the "0" key. The main idea of \u200b\u200bthese locks: Do not create electrical chain overloads. At the same time, on the go, you can easily switch small and full forward.
The relay and clermets placed on the fee. This is the installation of a relay scheme:
Outputs from contacts and reel coils soldered to the Terminals. Mandatory to install diodes relay on the relay coil. Blue varistors (2 mug) not necessarily put.
According to the scheme connected the contacts of the relay and power to each other. This whole process is absolutely author. I chased miniaturization. Made so. You can make more cumbersome, but more neat.
Unloading scheme
The principle of unloading is simple: we give a signal to Arduino, the electric boiler works, the bunker is released with the bait and snap. Electrocum is a simple solenoid by 24V from the supply of paper in a laser printer.
So that the pulling force was more, I decided to increase the voltage from the battery up to 30 V .. This is done with the help of a simple Chinese device MT3608 purchased on AliExpress.
Tublings, voltmeters and dimensions.
Here the schemes please the eye with their simplicity and a subsidity. Dimensions can be implemented simply by attaching a fishing boat bicycle lamp on the handle.
I will finish the story about electronics such here emergency stop circuit:
It was created in order to have a fishing boat with a random disappearance of mobile communications on fishing, the fishing boat has not saved over the horizon or in the root.
The principle of operation is simple: while the tube and telephone (receiver) is removed in the call mode, then there is a voltage on the microphone. It can be used to control the optornel, through the normal constant contacts of which the voltage on the boat motor will be supplied. If you finish the challenge or if the network disappears, the voltage on the microphone disappears, the operator opens and the motor stops.
Programming microcontrollers Arduino
Arduino is, if someone does not know, microcontrollers for the general public. Very available and easy. Roughly speaking: I connected via USB to a computer, loaded the sketch on it (the program in which it is written that the microcontroller will do) and everything is ready. The process of installation of the drivers and the download program will not describe. Everything can be taken on the site A.rduino..
If there are questions, then the network is full of detailed descriptions of this process.
In my naughty boat, two Arduino boards are used: one UNO and one nano.
For UNO, in addition to Sketch, you will need libraries.
Download and download the library
The DTMF folder must be copied to the folder C: \\ Program Files \\ Arduino \\ Libraries.
In the sketches themselves, after this "//" labels are comments.
But the sketches themselves:
For UNO:
#Include.
iNT SENSORPIN \u003d A0;
float n \u003d 128.0;
float sampling_rate \u003d 8926.0;
Dtmf dtmf \u003d dtmf (n, sampling_rate);
float d_mags;
char Thischar;
iNT LEDPINS \u003d (// Array for 10 Pins / Relay.
2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 // 4-PIN, using the library!
};
void setup () (
for (int i \u003d 0; i<= 9; i++) {
pinmode (LEDPINS [i], Output); // All Array Ledpins Make Output.
digitalWrite (LEDPINS [I], HIGH); // All Array Ledpins Making High.
}
}
void loop () (
dtmf.sample (SENSORPIN);
dtmf.detect (D_MAGS, 506);
thischar \u003d dtmf.button (D_MAGS, 1800.);
if (thischar) (
digitalWrite (Ledpins, Low);
delay (500);
digitalWrite (LEDPINS, HIGH);
}
}
For Nano:
// Add a library to work with servo drives
#Include.
// For further work we call 12 PIN as SERVOPIN
#Define Servopin 12.
// 544 This is the reference pulse length in which the servo must take the position 0 °
#Define Servominimp 544.
// 2400 This is the reference pulse length in which the servo can take the position 180 °
#Define Servomaximp 2400.
SERVO MYSERVO;
void setup ()
{
mYSERVO.ATTACH (SERVOPIN, SERVOMINIMP, SERVOMAXIMP);
// Install PIN as a servo management output,
// as well as for the operation of the servo directly in the range of angles from 0 to 180 ° specify mines and max values \u200b\u200bof pulses.
Pinmode (5, Input);
Pinmode (6, Input);
Pinmode (7, Input);
MYSERVO.WRITE (1430);
}
void loop ()
{
if (Digitalread (5) \u003d\u003d HIGH) // Condition of the 1st button
{
MYSERVO.WRITE (1130); // Rotate the servo to the left at 45 degrees
}
If (Digitalread (6) \u003d\u003d High) // Condition of the 2nd Button
{
MYSERVO.WRITE (1430); // Return Servo Center
}
if (Digitalread (7) \u003d\u003d High) // Condition of the 3rd button
{
MYSERVO.WRITE (1730); // Turn the servo right to 45 degrees
}
}
Lid (deck) boats and controls on it
The material for the lid was a glassworkstolitical 2 mm thick. Attached the body of the fishing boat to the fiberglass sheet, covered the circuit with a marker, and cut the desired shape with an electrolls.
The weight of the lid turned out to be 590 grams. For such rigidity, a normal result.
Power regulators and a lantern toggle switch placed in a capacitance from the powder, which was planted for glue "Liquid nails" for complete waterproofing.
For a receiver and voltmeter phone, I used an external junction box.
Also, it is placed in the contacts of the battery for the battery. On the back brought the connector for unloading.
This looks like a bait boat with a lid installed, but without unloading:
Unloading prikormki
The principle of the valve of bait is: when the signal is submitted, a solenoid is triggered, while holding the bottom of the bunker bottom, and it opens freely under its weight or weight of bait.
Bunker for bait made of three paired boxes for small details. The bottom of the two-millionth textolite suspected to the smallest loop, which could be found on the business market.
And all this attached to a single hundred stainless steel corner.
By the way, the bunkers made quick-consuming. For this, I fasten the corner to the category on the nuts with the "ears", and the cable to the solenoid through the connector.
At the top of the corner (bases of bunkers) brought the knob of the boat made from an aluminum tube with a diameter of 10mm .. The weight of the unloading was a little more kilogram. This is a lot, but for my bait, the boat is quite acceptable.
Hello everyone. My review is dedicated to those who are tired of modern, complex toys on radio control, with a bunch of electronics inside. Meet: Wonderful boat, with steam engineworking from the heat of the candle. This is exactly the toy, the principle of action of which you can easily explain to your child :)
Actually, I have long wanted such a boat. There was even a thought to solder himself, from the tin can, but I recently got ready for me and I acquired it. The seller turned out to be a little sculpted, and sent without a track, although the page stated that they were sent by Normal Mail. Nevertheless, everything came quickly enough. The boat is completely metallic, comes in a box, in the kit there are two candles, an iron trailer and plastic straw. Apparently, to fill the tubes a boat with water. 
The quality of the assembly of the ship leaves much to be desired, so it was decided to disassemble it, and do everything in a normal one. Inside the boiler is a "steam boiler", which represents a small volume camera, with a flexible brass membrane from above. On the bottom, 2 tubes are attached to the chamber, which are outlined overboard. To pull the boiler, disassembled the ship did not bother, everything comes out so. 
Tubes coming overboard were glued with something like superclone and dangled. Therefore, I soldered them. Surprisingly, the paint from heating did not cut down.
The principle of operation is very simple: when the camera, pre-filled with water, begin to warm the candle, the liquid boils, the pressure rises, and steam, pushing water through the tubes, drives the boat forward. Then steam condenses, a vacuum is created, and the water is absorbed back into the boiler. The cycle is repeated.
All this is accompanied by cool sounds that make up the bending membrane. Like a small motor. That is why the boat is called Poppop Boat, because of the sounds that he publishes.
You can read in more detail in Bourgeois Wikipedia on request Poppop Boat
The article is interesting, but in English. The toy was popular in the 50s of the last century, and invented even earlier.
And of course, video work. The main thing is not to forget to fill the tubes with water before launching. Otherwise, nothing will work.
I plan to buy +59. Add to favourites I liked the review +116 +213
