How to make a pendulum saw for metal with your own hands? A pendulum saw for metal: what is it and what is it for? Do-it-yourself pendulum metal cutting machine.

Section: Machine tools and tools

The purpose of our work will be to make a cutting machine with our own hands. There is no need to describe how useful and necessary such equipment is in the work of any craftsman. and just on the farm.

We will start manufacturing from a frame-frame, its overall dimensions are 700 * 1000 * 900 mm.

A corner of 25 * 25 mm will perfectly serve as a material for the frame, we cut the workpieces with a grinder and weld. We weld channel No. 10 to the upper plane of the frame at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, to which, in turn, two vertical posts from a 40 * 40 mm square are attached with bolts.

The legs are connected with a 12 mm # 216 shaft with a fitted sleeve (to avoid lateral movement of the disc, the shaft-sleeve connection is made with a sliding fit with a minimum clearance). A rocker arm is welded to this bushing from the same channel # 10 with a size of 800 mm, and in such a way that the shoulders are in a ratio of 1: 3.

An electric motor is attached to the smaller part of the rocker arm, the working shaft is attached to the larger one, the transmission of motion will be carried out using a belt drive.

Now about the electric motor. Preference should be given to induction motors, as more reliable and durable. Practice shows that for normal work with a cutting disc # 216 400 mm, a "three-thousander" with a power of 2.2 kW, powered from a three-phase network, is ideally suited. A thousand and a half will do, but the gear ratio of the belt drive must be selected so that the shaft is about 6000 rpm. In case of supply from a single-phase network. the motor power should be increased by 30% and the working and starting capacitors should be used.

We order a working shaft with supports, flanges for a disk and a pulley for a belt of type "A" to a turner, and the flange protrusion should be # 216 32 mm. In this case, it will be possible to install both a cutting disc and a saw blade for wood on the machine. Both the motor and the shaft are attached to the shaft with M10 bolts and nuts.

The rocker arm travel is limited by a chain, and springs (eg from a sports expander) are installed on the engine side to facilitate return. The chains and springs are fastened with bolts.

The table is made of a 40-50 mm planed board, and covered with plywood or USB to level out small irregularities.

And another important point... When installing the shaft, install the saw blade and carefully check the perpendicularity of the planes of the blade and the table. If necessary, the position of the shaft must be aligned using shims on the shaft bearing supports.

And finally, the last thing. DO NOT FORGET to provide disk protection.

The disc operates at high speeds, abrasive and metal particles can fly out, and in the case of a carbide-tipped saw blade, the latter can fly out. Disk protection is a must!

What is needed for a cutting machine

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Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder - convenience and practicality!

The grinder is a very useful and versatile tool. With its help, you can cut metal, stone, tiles and, of course, grind surfaces, but sometimes it is much easier and more accurate to perform these works with a stationary machine. Fortunately, you can make your own cutting machine out of a grinder!

Homemade grinder machine - pros and cons

If you have to hold a grinder in your hands often enough, you probably managed to feel its disadvantages. The weak points of the instrument stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to secure parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn is fraught with serious injuries.

Secondly, it is rather difficult for a mobile version of the tool to control the clear perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disc in relation to the mark and the cut material, and even hold it if necessary. Thirdly, it is quite difficult to cut several parts of the same size with a tool, especially when it comes to rods and small pipes - after cutting, you also have to trim the parts.

And, of course, the employment of both hands and the utmost tiresome concentration at work, since the angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools. The only thing worth a kickback is the sudden kickback of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc gets stuck in the workpiece. The danger of kickback lies not so much in the kickback of the tool as in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high rpms, abrasive debris can seriously injure the operator.

Kickback occurs especially often at the end of the cut, when only a small bridge connects the parts. In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the circle and finish cutting the part from the back side. A cut-off machine, which you can design with your own hands from sufficiently available materials, is able to solve all of the above problems and provide additional safety.

Making a cutting machine - a simple option

Finding a finished machine on the store shelves that meets your needs at first glance is a fairly simple task. But it is unlikely that there is a design that is fully made with all the requirements, because the requirements are different for everyone! In such cases, the owners of machine tools try to improve or alter them, but face very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys with which it is very difficult to work with welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you specifically need - for example, a precise ruler or a more elastic spring. Redoing someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!

The simplest home-made machine for a small grinder with your own hands can be made at a minimum cost and in just a few hours! The finished structure will be a long metal pipe that serves both as a frame and as a handle. Closer to one end, a transverse metal strip with two holes for fastening the grinder is welded.

On the same side, the pipe is attached to one side of a small piece of the corner on a movable shaft, while the corner itself is attached with its other side either to the work table, or just to the floor in the garage! On the opposite side of the mount, it is important to fix the spring, which will allow the entire structure to return to its original position. That's all - the machine is ready, you just need to properly fix the grinder. Of course, this option is for the simplest work, for more accurate and complex procedures, you need to make a more complex structure.

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder - for precise work!

To make a cutting machine, you will need the following materials and tools: a steel corner, a profile pipe, a sheet of metal for a platform (or a lighter version of chipboard), a welding machine, a channel, a drill, a shaft, several identical bearings, a small diameter pipe, a spring, and also relay and pedal. Welding, if you think about it, can be replaced with strong bolts - that's what you need a drill for. By the way, this option will allow, in addition to everything else, to disassemble the machine in case of such a need.

How to make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: details and drawing

The manufacture of the machine should begin with cutting off the parts onto the frame. To prevent damage to expensive material, carefully study the numerous drawings that can be found on the Internet or follow the models on the shelves. In the latter case, draw up a drawing yourself, for this you do not need special skills - the main thing is to present the finished structure and its proportions on paper. Each grinder needs its own drawing, because the tools from different manufacturers can be radically different - somewhere you can remove the handle, somewhere you will have to come up with a stand for the entire grinder! Plus, for different disk sizes, you need a different frame.

Step 2: frame

The simplest frame consists of two frames on a common axis. The lower frame should be fixed on a platform - metal or chipboard. If the grinder is large, it is better to use metal. The upper frame, to which the grinder is screwed, should rotate vertically relative to the lower one, like a pendulum. A spring is needed to fix the original position. A fastener is welded to the lower frame, which consists of a clamping angle and a movable clamp.

Step 3: Ruler

It is very important to provide measuring parts in the machine, thanks to which you can cut workpieces with an accuracy of up to 1 mm. In this case, a movable ruler with a stop welded to the tube is best suited. By setting it to the exact size and securing it with a socket screw, you can get to work!

Step 4: electronics

For the convenience of work, provide in the design a starting pedal or a button with commutation through a low-voltage relay for 12 V. Through it, voltage will be supplied to the grinder. With the help of such a simple design, we free our hands, achieve an accurate, even cut without the use of a vice, and save time on accurate measurements. This tool will replace the metal cut-off saw, and if necessary, you can always return the angle grinder to its mobile state.

Do-it-yourself grinder machine - safety above all!

When working with a grinder, stationary or manual, safety must always be remembered. For the stationary version, you need to consider the direction of the tool and the position of the guard - it is important that the guard completely covers the area where the operator is located. If you have a machine tool, you will most likely have a desire to use the tool for other purposes - for example, attach a saw blade for a tree to the angle grinder, which absolutely cannot be done!

Wood is a heterogeneous material, there may be knots or even nails in it. The rotational speed of the grinder significantly exceeds the required speed of a standard sawmill, which will very quickly render the saw blade unusable.

But, in addition, unlike abrasive and grinding discs, saw blades have sharp teeth, which pose a high risk. Risking your health for a quick cut is simply unwise. After installing the tool and a new disc, the operation of the grinder should be checked for at least 1 minute at idle - the wheel should rotate completely freely, without excessive vibration, without touching the casing.

Leave the solution for 5-6 hours. Then the foam will separate and rise up, and the liquid will remain below. It is necessary to carefully drain this liquid and spread it on the picture in several layers. After each layer, the painting should dry completely. Then you can hang the picture and forget about it for half a year or a year. Then the painting should be rinsed with water. After that, you can safely varnish the picture.

How to put sugar in a glass: To put sugar in a glass, you need to take a spoon, scoop it up, bring it to the cup and pour it out! ?

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder

Diy Milling Machine Drawings

Video how to make a metal cutting machine out of a grinder yourself

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If you have to hold a grinder in your hands often enough, you probably managed to feel its disadvantages.

The weak points of the instrument stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to secure parts during cutting, and their slightest vibration can lead to destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn is fraught with serious injuries.

Thirdly, it is quite difficult to cut several parts of the same size with a tool.... especially when it comes to rods and small pipes - after cutting, you also have to trim the parts.

And, of course, the employment of both hands and the utmost tiresome concentration at work, since the angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools.

The only thing worth a kickback is the sudden kickback of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc gets stuck in the workpiece. The danger of kickback lies not so much in the kickback of the tool as in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high rpms, abrasive debris can seriously injure the operator.

Kickback occurs especially often at the end of the cut, when only a small bridge connects the parts.

In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the circle and finish cutting the part from the back side. A cut-off machine, which you can design with your own hands from sufficiently available materials, is able to solve all of the above problems and provide additional safety.

2 Making a cutting machine - a simple option

Cutting machine from a grinder

Having worked a lot with a grinder, I came to the conclusion that this useful tool can be used more efficiently.

And here's what I came up with for this.

■ Difficult to cut multiple pieces of equal length from small pipes, rods, etc.

It takes extra time to trim, and every time you have to set a new mark.

■ It is necessary to constantly monitor the perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disc in relation to the tube and the mark, so that there is no error.

■ Vibration of the workpiece during cutting will destroy the blade in seconds.

By transferring a hand tool to the stationary category, I eliminated the listed disadvantages.

The machine consists of two frames on a common axis (photo 1, 2).

The lower one was rigidly fixed on a chipboard plate (fig. 1).

403 Forbidden

The upper one, with a bolted grinder B, rotates vertically, like a pendulum, relative to the lower (fig. 2)... The initial position of the tool is fixed by a tension spring.

To lower the cutting blade, I push down on the grinder handle. When released, the cutting head moves back.

A collapsible attachment unit is welded to the lower frame, consisting of a movable clamp and a clamping angle (photo 3).

Below is a movable measuring ruler with a limiter, welded to the tube.

Having locked the bar with a socket screw, I set the size only once (with an accuracy of 1 mm), after which I cut the required number of absolutely identical parts of any size - up to rings.

I start the machine with a pedal with switching through a low-voltage relay (12 V), which, with its powerful contacts, supplies a voltage of 220 V. Accordingly, neither the pedal, nor the wire on the ground, even if the insulation is damaged, pose no danger to humans.

I install, remove and fix B using a clip, which is used on the top covers of boxes for storing and transporting equipment (such as an overlay). The weight and dimensions of the machine make it possible to transport it in a box of a car.

Development advantages

■ No vice needed

■ The result is a very even cut

■ The pedal frees up your hands

DIY cutting machine

I plan to weld the frame of the stairs to the second floor, and for maximum accuracy of angle cuts, a cutting machine is needed.

He began to look closely at them, but for some reason the prices are not very childish, and in the future he has little use on the farm. At the insistence of the respondents, the option with the installation of a cutting wheel for metal in a miter saw for wood was discarded.

I decided to pay attention to accessories for grinders.

I looked at different options, the price of a count is from 300 to 600 thousand, but in all I did not like the longitudinal backlash.

Because of this backlash, there can be an angle spread of up to 5 degrees. Nah such happiness? After a little thought, I decided to design such an adapter myself. It's a pity to throw 300 thousand on it.

What I needed:

* Bulgarian

* welding machine

* clamps

Used iron was used from the materials, 3 bolts Ф 16 were bought for attaching the grinder and friends pushed the carriage from the bicycle.

As a result, personal time was wasted - it is priceless

4800 for three bolts at the spikulants

10,000 for cutting wheels

Well, a dozen electrodes and a couple of kilowatts of electricity.

After gluing the wallpaper: After gluing the walls in the room with wallpaper, you should not leave the room to ventilate, as the glued wallpaper will begin to fall off or become covered.

To keep nails close at hand: Sometimes we take nails or screws in our mouth, in our pocket, or just hold them in our hand. It is much better to hang a magnet around your neck. On it, they will be securely held in any quantity and hands and mouth will be free.

Homemade vulcanizer - manufacture and use

If you have a punctured tire, the easiest option is to contact the tire service. However, there are many who like to do everything themselves, and tire fitting is not always nearby. Sometimes the costs associated with contacting a tire fitting (road, time, the procedure itself) result in a substantial amount, especially if you have to use this service often.

In general, for various reasons, for those who wish to eliminate breakdowns at home, I offer several options making a homemade vulcanizer with minimal costs. With the help of a home-made vulcanizer, for example, made of an iron, you can quickly and reliably repair cars, moto and bicycle cameras, air mattresses, heating pads, various beads, inflatable toys, etc.

One of the most common homemade vulcanizer options is using an old iron.

The reason for this is new, more functional irons, and old (Soviet) irons, in working order, (if you don’t have one left) will not be difficult to find from a neighbor. Here's a free basic vulcanizer part for you.

Below are a few designs. Which one to choose is up to you, the basic idea is the same, the difference is how to provide a clamp connection at the place of vulcanization of a rubber product.

The crude rubber is soaked (for a while) in gasoline, the size is slightly less than the size of the patch.

The puncture site is processed with a sandpaper (size - with a margin), wiped with gasoline. A patch is cut out of auto tube rubber, the edges are rounded. The patch is also processed with sandpaper, then gasoline. Next: raw rubber on a hole, a patch on it, clamp everything in our vulcanizer. You can put a piece of newspaper on to prevent the rubber from sticking to the vulcanizer plate.

Wait until it boils when it gets on the vulcanizer (15-20 minutes). Turn off the vulcanizer, wait a little, remove the vulcanizer, allow the rubber to cool. They also check the temperature with the help of granulated sugar: if its grains in contact with the hot vulcanizer begin to melt and turn yellow, then it is time to turn off the vulcanizer.

If you have a thermostat, set it to 150 degrees. (approximately for ironing silk). The thermostat can be adjusted empirically. If the smell of burnt rubber appears, this is a sign of a high temperature, if the patch is poorly merged (vulcanized), it is a sign of insufficient temperature or a short vulcanization time.

After one or two times, everything becomes clear and vulcanization can be put on stream 🙂

For more specific work, you will need a simple mold, which is made of two steel plates 6-8 mm thick and 40X60 mm in size. Four holes are drilled in the corners and an M4 thread is cut to tighten the halves with screws.

The inner edges of the plates are slightly grinded to prevent the edges from cutting into the rubber. In the case of a complex configuration of the parts to be repaired, the plates are given an appropriate shape or additional holes and grooves are made.

Before starting work, the area to be treated is thoroughly cleaned (the edges of the beads are cut off at an angle of 45 °) and degreased with light gasoline (B-70).

Then a patch of the required size made of raw rubber is applied to the place to be repaired, put into a mold and tightened tightly with screws. Putting it on a heated iron in such a way that the entire plane of the lower half of the mold touches the heating surface, give an exposure for 10-15 minutes.

During work, make sure that the rubber does not touch the hot parts of the iron.
The grooves for gluing the beads are drilled with the halves of the mold tightened, and the diameter of the drill should be equal to the diameter of the bead. It is possible to drill several holes in one mold, for different diameters of the beads, however, the distance between them should not be less than the thickness of the workpiece.

Otherwise, the heating of the bonding site will be uneven and the quality of vulcanization will deteriorate.
Cleaning the gluing points or trimming the ends of the beads is done immediately before work, and the wet rubber is applied in a thin layer - so the connection will be stronger.

Vulcanizer circuit with integrated clamp

Iron vulcanizer: 1 - clamp bracket, 2 - boss, 3 - clamping screw, 4 - clamping heel, 5 - electric iron.

Cut a staple out of 5mm steel (see.

Figure), weld a cylindrical boss to it on top, and on the inside - a strip of metal 50 mm wide. The section of the resulting clamp should have a T-shape. Drill a hole along the axis of the boss and cut a thread in it for the clamping screw. Then bolt the iron body to the bottom of the Clamp - and the vulcanizer is almost ready.

The easiest option curing with an iron- no modifications at all.

Apply raw rubber to the cleaned gap, then paper and press everything on top with an iron.

Some weight is put on the iron. Vulcanization lasts 10-15 minutes, the temperature of the iron is 140-150 ° C (thermostat in the "silk" position). Since the exact value of the temperature of the iron is unknown, care must be taken not to burn the rubber.

The smell of burnt rubber will indicate too much heat.

Another option homemade vulcanizer from an electric stove and a clamp

According to the dimensions (diameter and height) of the ceramic base from a household electric stove with an open spiral, a welded heater body is made from iron 5 mm thick.

Four legs from a bar and a clamp are welded to its walls. Insert a ceramic element with a spiral into the body, on which, to prevent its contact with metal, you must put a gasket made of sheet asbestos.

From below, the electric heater is closed with an iron cover with two bolts.

The main parts of the homemade vulcanizer:
1 - case; 2 - bottom cover; 3 - asbestos gasket; 4 - ceramic base with nichrome spiral; 5 - electric cord.

A bimetallic thermostat from an ordinary iron, complete with a signal lamp and its resistance, is attached to the upper surface of the case, at the clamp.

The electrical circuit of the vulcanizer is similar to that of the iron. By controlling the surface temperature of the plate made by the vulcanizer with a mercury or other thermometer, the regulator is adjusted so that it turns off the heating element at a temperature of about 140-150 ° C.

DIY metal cutting machine

In this case, the signal light goes out, which indicates that the vulcanizer is turned off. The heating time depends on the power of the heating coil.

And the last option - a marching one, which does not require electricity, can be very useful in case of troubles along the way.

it homemade vulcanizer made with a piston from a motorcycle or car engine, which requires only 40-50 grams of gasoline.

The vulcanizer is easy to manufacture and includes only a few details:
1 - the base of the vulcanizer
2 - bolts
3 - beam
4 - piston
5 - self-tapping screws
6 - nuts
7 - holes for screws
8 - bolt holes

Base 1 is made of wood, since wood does not interfere with the good heating of the rubber.

Bolts 2 are inserted into the holes of the base and fixed to the base with self-tapping screws 5, from turning in the hole in the base. ... The bolts are made of a metal rod with a diameter of 12mm. A washer is welded at one end of the rod, and an M12 thread is cut at the other.

A beam is put on both bolts from the thread side, which, with the help of nuts, presses the vulcanizer piston to the base.
A damaged chamber is placed between the base and the piston.

Materials and construction are subject to change - only the principle of operation is important.

To repair the camera, you need to find the damage, clean it, and wipe it with clean gasoline. Then install a wet rubber patch on the damaged area and cover with a piece of newspaper, and put the piston on top. We press the piston using a rack with nuts. Pour gasoline into the piston and release a small piece of rags into the gasoline.

We ignite the gasoline and after the gasoline has all burned out, we give time to the piston to cool completely. Only then do we remove the piston.

The damaged camera has been repaired. The patch looks like after a conventional vulcanizer - reliable and durable, does not require repeated repair.

If you are interested in making a homemade winch

Repair yourself and as they say "not a nail ..."

DIY metalworking machines

For each company (factories, plants), the most important is air supply, as well as water cooling, which is necessary in every technological process. For this purpose, special systems with fans are used.

DIY metal cutting machine

Various pumps and fans are do-it-yourself metalworking machines to stabilize the temperature process in production. Special machines control power consumption and absorb the effect of noise.

We use scales for each food retailer. Modern scales are an automatic device that accurately measures the weight of a product. The device is equipped with a display and a special keyboard, which allows you to set tariffs for the maintenance of gas equipment in 2016 and display the necessary information for the seller and the buyer.

You can control the equalization from the power source or charge it from the battery (portable version).

In any office or company, they maintain the optimum air temperature and air exchange using special devices. This is necessary to organize a convenient workflow. Among the various devices, we use equipment for mini-smokers: covers, air conditioners of various modifications, ventilation shafts with free and artificial cooling.

Ventilation can be exhaust, inlet and mechanical.

Important: DIY metalworking machines

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For food processing companies, a variety of machines are used to provide an automated workflow.

The automation setting can be defined with some functions in the t-shaving machine for Chelyabinsk. These are different groups of machines that differ depending on the functions performed. All technological operations can be classified in accordance with the principle of the work performed, the device and the modes of implementation.

Companies producing semi-finished products for sale in grocery supermarkets are equipped with special refrigerators.

Freezers are the purchase of a 2c132 device with which the end product is kept for a fixed period of time. In frozen appliances, ready-made semi-finished products are equipped with a special conveyor belt equipped with a spiral belt.

DIY pendulum saw for metal

How is a homemade circular saw made?

Circular DIY Saw
Pendulum circular saw with powerful electric motor
Mini circular saw
- Making the foundation
- Installing the engine

A homemade mini circular saw is a great way to save money.

Because not every home craftsman can afford to purchase it in order to make small repairs. But sometimes you can't do without such a tool. A homemade circular saw that turns out can do an excellent job with the task associated with small construction, for example, in the country.

In order to make repairs at home or in the country, you will need a circular saw, and you can do it yourself.

Circular DIY Saw

The homemade circular saw is meant for sawing logs.

The thickness of the logs that this equipment can cut depends on what the power of the electric drive is.

Circular saw assembly diagram.

If it is necessary to cut thick pieces of wood, a shaft, a belt drive and the most powerful engine are placed on these saws.

Any do-it-yourself circular saw consists of a lower and upper part.

Electrical equipment is installed in the lower part:

transformer
engine
starting device.

Fix on the upper part:

It is better to make the frame of the upper part of the saw from a metal corner of 25 mm.

The approximate dimensions of the rectangle in the form of which the upper part is 600x400 mm. Pipes are welded in its corners (recommended height # 8211 2.2 m, and diameter # 8211 17 mm).

Additionally, 2 corners are fixed along the frame and to strengthen the bearings. The distance between them is determined by the size of the shaft.

Well, one more cutting machine 🙂

Clamps are used to secure the bearings. Chips will not jam between rings, balls and cage if sealed bearings are supplied.

A thread must be made at the end of the shaft so that the disc is clamped.

Circular saw bearing assembly diagram.

The bottom part is best made massive so that the circular saw is stable. To make the frame for this part, a 40 mm corner is used. To secure the engine, it is necessary to additionally reinforce 2 corners across the frame. An asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm is the best option for a DIY circular saw.

The pulley groove has an internal dimension of 80 mm and is pushed onto the shaft. There is also a need to weld on a small pad in order to secure the trigger on it.

Pipes with a length of 2.2 m, welded to the corners of the frame, are needed to tighten the belt so that the thumbs of metal tighten the thin pipes.

After that, the lower and upper parts of the hand circular saw are embedded in the supports, the role of which is played by pipes, then the belt is tightened and pressed with thumbs. The start of an asynchronous motor in this model of a homemade saw is carried out through starting capacitors.

To reload the engine and increase the torque, it is possible to use a 220/36 400 W transformer, which is connected according to an autotransformer circuit. The location of the capacitor and transformer does not really matter in the functioning of the circuit.

Pendulum circular saw with powerful electric motor

Scheme of a table for a circular saw with a lifting-lowering mechanism.

Mini circular saw

This indispensable tool for home building can be used to saw any material and at any desired angle.

This means doing all the work associated with a rotating saw blade. Now let's look at how a mini circular saw is made with our own hands.

Making the foundation

It is very important to ensure that the inner edges of the insert are perfectly parallel. The attachment of the tool from the bottom to the table will be carried out so that the circular saw is between the sheets of the table top in the middle of the gap. A mini circular saw is attached to the drilled holes on the table in this position.

Cutting a profile, pipe or any other workpiece with a hand tool strictly perpendicular to the axis and cleanly is not an easy task, and using an electric pendulum saw is a mere trifle.

The device consists of a frame-base and a sheet of metal (or a sheet of durable plastic), pivotally connected by an axis on one of the sides.

On the frame on the side opposite to the axis, a corner is welded parallel to it, into which pipes or profiles are laid for cutting.

An electric motor and a shaft are fixed on the top sheet, connected by a drive belt. Remember to attach a convenient handle.

At the end of the shaft opposite from the pulley, a clamp is made for attaching a cutting wheel or a circular saw.

Such a pendulum saw can cut almost anything: metal, plastic, wood (even logs). When sawing logs, the lower frame rotates around the hinge axis by 180 '.

In this position, she is fixed with something, for example, an assistant can stand on her. To avoid moving a heavy log after each saw, it is easier to carry the saw along it.

The workpieces can also be cut at different angles. To do this, the corner on which the workpiece is laid must be fixed to the base frame not by welding, but by bolts and provide for the possibility of installing it at different angles to the saw blade.

Saw Blade Shaft Assembly Parts

1-shaft, 2-bearing bracket, 3-saw blade bushing clamps, 4-pulley.

Diy pendulum saw

It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines in a home workshop with a pendulum saw.

You can fix it on the workbench, next to the bench vise, in which the workpiece to be processed is clamped. The saw's working tool is an abrasive disc. Steel rods, corners, pipes, sheets and even metal tiles, porcelain and glass, hardened to any hardness, are in his teeth, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the disc with a saw with a fine tooth, then you can saw wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond disc will make it possible to process stones.

To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vise, in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.

Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves, and even turn it into a regular circular.

For such a saw, you need a 340 W single-phase electric motor (from an electric grinder) or a 400 W three-phase AOL 21-2 type with a rotational speed of 2800 rpm.

The transmission of rotation to the spindle of the machine is by a V-belt of type A-I018 from a GAZ-24 car.

Rice. 1 Pendulum saw: 1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - tool protection cover, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - belt cover, 6 - A-1018 V-belt, 7 - М8Х14 mm screw, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer sleeve (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - bolt М6Х12 mm, 15 - screw М5 X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203.

23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - screw М6Х8 mm. 26 - screw М8 X 16 mm, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - bolt М6Х16 mm, 30 - 1/2 "pipe (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing ( steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate body (D 16).

The base of the saw is a square-section backbone frame, to which the spindle body is welded on one side, and a plate for installing the motor on the other. A 1/2 "pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the swing axis of the saw.

When welding, make sure that the motor shaft axis, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to align the frame, clean the welded seams and paint with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.

Belt guard and abrasive disc guard are made of 2 mm sheet steel.

It is best to weld workpieces from the inside with a fillet weld. The belt guard is screwed directly to the engine and frame, to which the abrasive wheel guard is also screwed.

The drive handle is located on the removable belt cover.

Before assembly, fill the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease.

Insert felt rings soaked in liquid grease into the bearing grooves.

With the assembled saw, the motor must outweigh the spindle and be below, between the supports, otherwise, at the moment the saw is turned on, the abrasive can hit the workpiece and crumble.

Rice. 2 Pendulum saw attachments:A - for slotting: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - bracket, 3 - work table, fixed in a vice

B - for cutting sheet material: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.

Bolt and Nail Cases: For easy storage of bolts, nails, screws, etc.

it is very convenient to use jars with screw caps. Nail the lids to the bottom of the wall cabinet and screw into the bottom of the jar of contents. Now every little thing will be in its place.

Fleas in cats and dogs. A great way to fight. A cat, dog or other animal can be freed from fleas if you bathe it in a decoction of tobacco. Then rinse with warm water.

It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines in a home workshop with a pendulum saw. You can fix it on the workbench, next to the bench vise, in which the workpiece to be processed is clamped. The saw's working tool is an abrasive disc. Steel bars, corners, pipes, sheets and even metal tiles, porcelain and glass, hardened to any hardness, are “in the teeth” for him, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the disc with a saw with a fine tooth, then you can saw wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond disc will make it possible to process stones.

To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vise, in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.

Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves and even turn it into a regular "circular".

For such a saw, you need a 340 W single-phase electric motor (from an electric grinder) or a 400 W three-phase AOL 21-2 type with a rotational speed of 2800 rpm. The transmission of rotation to the spindle of the machine is by a V-belt of type A-I018 from a GAZ-24 car.

1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - tool protection cover, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - belt cover, 6 - A-1018 V-belt, 7 - М8Х14 mm screw, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer sleeve (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - bolt М6Х12 mm, 15 - screw М5 X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203. 23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - screw М6Х8 mm. 26 - screw М8 X 16 mm, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - bolt М6Х16 mm, 30 - 1/2 "" pipe (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing (steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate body (D 16).

The base of the saw is a square-section backbone frame, to which the spindle body is welded on one side, and a plate for installing the motor on the other. A 1/2 "" pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the swing axis of the saw. When welding, make sure that the motor shaft axis, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to align the frame, clean the welded seams and paint with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.

Belt guard and abrasive disc guard are made of 2 mm sheet steel. It is best to weld workpieces from the inside with a fillet weld. The belt guard is screwed directly to the engine and frame, to which the abrasive wheel guard is also screwed. The drive handle is located on the removable belt cover.

Before assembly, fill the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease. Insert felt rings soaked in liquid grease into the bearing grooves.

With the assembled saw, the motor must outweigh the spindle and be below, between the supports, otherwise, at the moment the saw is turned on, the abrasive can hit the workpiece and crumble.

Rice. 2 Pendulum saw attachments:

A - for slotting:

1 - belt drive casing, 2 - bracket, 3 - work table, fixed in a vice;

B - for cutting sheet material:

1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.

When working on a pendulum saw, the safety rules must be strictly followed. The supply cable must be protected from mechanical damage by a steel flexible hose that can be taken from the shower hose. The electric motor as well as the saw itself must be reliably grounded. Attach the working tool to the shaft only with a nut with a left-hand thread. It is dangerous to operate the saw without protective goggles.

If during the operation of the device the drive belt looses, it must be tightened, for which it is enough to lay a plate of the required thickness between the frame plate and the engine.

V. ZAITSEV, design engineer
"Modelist-Constructor" 1985, no. 12

An indispensable tool in the home workshop, locksmith shop, on the construction site. Many industrial models of these tools are produced, but their price is sometimes not available not only to a private craftsman, but also to a small enterprise. There is a way out - a do-it-yourself metal cutting machine is not difficult to make. This requires only certain skills in working with a welding machine, locksmith tools, and some qualifications of an electrician. From materials, too, you do not need anything scarce, or not available in free sale.

For work you will need:

Bulgarian;
welding machine;
drill;
a set of dies, taps, wrenches.

You will have to buy an electric motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW, single-phase or three-phase. In addition, you will need two pulleys, a shaft, bearings 204 or 205, a metal corner, sheet steel with a thickness of 2-4 millimeters. When all this is assembled, the actual manufacture of the machine begins.

Drawings can be made by yourself using material from the Internet, or you can use ready-made ones, for example these. But experience shows that it is best to adapt the drawings to the materials that you have in stock. As a rule, do-it-yourself constructions work best when you "customize" them for yourself. Naturally, in this case, certain rules and requirements should be observed that are put forward for an instrument of increased danger, such as a cutting disc machine or a pendulum saw, both home-made and industrial.

Most of the do-it-yourself metal cutting machines are of the pendulum type. more difficult to manufacture, but they can be made in a small workshop or metalworking workshop. For now, let's dwell on the most convenient type of cutting machine - disk. The general design can be seen in the video.

It consists of several main nodes:

electric motor;
pendulum;
drive mechanism;
cutting disc;
desktop.

Let's consider them separately.

Engine

Depending on the required power of the metal-cutting machine and the scope of its use, we select the engine power. It should be in the range of 1.5-3kW. If you plan to use a cutting machine in a home workshop, a small metalworking workshop, where cutting of a profile pipe, fittings, corner or other rolled products is relatively rare, and thin-walled metal is used as blanks, one and a half kilowatts will be enough in terms of power. For small-scale production, work on a construction site, or the manufacture of frames for any purpose, a more powerful engine will be required.

If there is a three-phase motor with a power of about 3 kilowatts, it can be connected to 220 volts, using the place of the "star" circuit, the "triangle" circuit. But it should be borne in mind that its power will decrease by 25-30%. The main thing is that the number of revolutions indicated on the nameplate will remain.

For installation on a metal cutting machine, the engine must have a number of revolutions equal to 2500-3000 per minute. This is due to the fact that it is at these speeds that the cutting disc works optimally.

For a homemade metal cutting machine, circles with a diameter of 300-400 millimeters are used. Here, too, one must proceed from the needs of production. It is not worth chasing a too large disc diameter - the farther from the center the working edge is, the less cutting effort, and a more powerful motor will be required. The optimal ratio of engine power and disc diameter is 2 kilowatts at three thousand revolutions and a diameter of 300 millimeters.

A self-made metal cutting machine must first of all be safe. The cutting discs indicate the maximum number of revolutions at which they can be operated. As a rule, it should not exceed 4400 rpm. If you get more, the disk may be destroyed, which is unsafe. If the number of revolutions is less than 3000, then the cutting speed will be insufficient, and the disc will overheat and wear out. It is these figures that should be taken as the starting point for calculating the power transmission.

Drive unit

It is most convenient to use a belt drive as a drive mechanism. To do this, you will have to find two pulleys of the same diameter. One of them is mounted on the motor shaft, the second on the drive shaft of the cutting disc. The disc shaft is mounted on two bearings. It is best to use the diagram when the drive mechanism is located to the left of the disk mounting cloud. It is more convenient to work this way, and safety rules are respected. The disc retaining nut will not be exposed to the risk of loosening.

To tension the drive belt, the motor is fixed at the rear of the swingarm with 4 bolts located in the longitudinal slots. It can be displaced in the direction of the central axis of the machine (perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the motor shaft) by 5-7 centimeters. This will maintain the correct belt tension and prevent slippage. It will also be easier to replace the belt if the previous one becomes unusable.

Console (pendulum)

The cantilever part of the metal cutting machine is one of the most important. In addition to the fact that it must be carefully balanced, reliably welded in compliance with all the required dimensions, it must also move strictly perpendicular to the work table. The pendulum is mounted on two vertical posts with slots for the pendulum sleeve (diameter 10-12 mm). It is best to make them from a steel square 40x40 millimeters. The height is approximately 80-100 millimeters, but you can calculate your own version.

A bushing shaft is horizontally installed in the holes of the racks, to which a rocker arm is welded, consisting of two levers, the ratio of which is one to three. A platform for installing an electric motor is welded on the short shoulder. On the long arm, the cut-off wheel drive shaft. The ratio of the levers length is approximate, it must be calculated so that in the idle position the weight of the engine outweighs the weight of the assembled saw unit (with protective covers). To bring the disc of the turned-on machine into contact with the metal, it is necessary to apply a small, but perceptible force.

For convenience of work, a return spring is attached to the lower part of the engine platform, and the angle of deflection of the pendulum upward is regulated by a cable or chain, fixed at one end to the table, and by the other to the lower part of the long arm.

Desktop

The optimal dimensions are 700x1000x900 mm. It is welded from a corner 25x25 mm and covered with a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick, in which slots are made in the disc rotation zone. A rotary stop and a clamp with a rotary clamp are fixed on the table. This allows you to cut both perpendicularly and at the desired angle. A very interesting version of a homemade machine is shown in the video. It is not the workpiece that turns here, but the console with the disc and the motor.

It is not particularly difficult to mount a disc-type cutting machine for a qualified locksmith. It is important to adhere to some fundamental requirements:

correctly calculate the rotational speed of the disk;
adjust the angle of rotation, it must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the desktop;
set the feed force of the disc to the cutting zone;
install an emergency stop button on the handle;
equip the cutting machine with protective guards for the disc and rotating parts.

An angle grinder - a grinder - is indispensable either in the garage or in a private courtyard. The unit allows you to cut a metal profile, clean up a welded seam or remove rust from the surface of workpieces and parts, has a low price and incredible ease of use. The grinder also has disadvantages, one of which is the unstable cut quality and the danger of skewing the cutting disc during use. You can eliminate the annoying shortcomings by making a special bed with your own hands, which will turn a hand tool into a real cutting machine. This will increase the speed of work and achieve accuracy that can only be obtained with industrial equipment.

Scope of application of cutting machines

Cutting disc machines are widely used in metalworking, mechanical engineering, woodworking and furniture industries. The units have found their application in the household as well: they are used as a handy tool for performing various works in the workshop and garage. The cut-off machine is convenient to use for solving a number of tasks:

The advantages of circular cutting machines include convenience and ease of use, high cutting speed and accuracy, the ability to replace the cutting disc in a matter of minutes.

Due to the relatively low cost, universal units have a quick self-sufficiency, so they are beneficial to use in small industries and in small workshops.

In the household, the cutting machine is used irregularly, so buying a factory-made tool is irrational. Better to make a special bed for an angle grinder. This will increase the versatility of the grinder, turning it into a small-sized cutting machine.

Types of adaptation, their advantages and disadvantages

There are two types of cutting machine designs, differing in the location of the grinder, which can be made at home.

The first installation is a frame with an angle grinder rigidly fixed under it. On the working surface, only the cutting disc is visible, which freely passes into the slot of the table. Cutting a metal profile or sheet in this case is completely identical to cutting wood blanks using a circular saw. Despite the very simple design, such a scheme is not very popular. Those who made such a device note the inconvenience in use due to the need to move the workpiece. This greatly reduces the accuracy of the work and makes the process unsafe. The only advantage of a machine with a bottom angle grinder is the ability to quickly cut thin metal sheets.

The cut-off machine with the lower position of the grinder can be used both for cutting metal and as a circular saw

The second scheme, in which the part remains stationary, and the cutting wheel itself moves, is more convenient. The so-called pendulum saw, located above the table top, allows you to cut the workpiece exactly at the required angle, while it becomes possible to make the required number of similar parts. Due to the location of the grinder on top, cutting the workpieces is effortless, and the operation of the unit becomes simple and safe. The undoubted advantages of the design include the ability to quickly dismantle the grinder for traditional use. As for the disadvantages of this method, the weak link can be considered a hinge joint, which complicates the design of the machine.

The machine for cutting metal with an upper grinder has a more convenient design and makes it possible to cut blanks at the desired angle

Pendulum saw device from grinder

A pendulum saw from a grinder is available for assembly at home, does not require expensive materials and special qualifications. The cut-off machine has a simple design and consists of several units:

bed;
pendulum;
mount under angle grinder.

The bed is a steel frame, welded from shaped tubes, with a platform made of sheet metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm. A bracket is attached to this plate, on which the hinge of the pendulum saw is mounted, as well as a stop for holding the workpiece. By the way, there can be several such stops: it is convenient when one element allows you to make a perpendicular cut, and the other makes it possible to cut the material at the required angle. The most perfect stop is a rotary device with a protractor, with the help of which any angle is set between the part and the cutting disc. An important detail: at the point where the saw touches the platform in the tabletop, a cut is made, its width should be equal to twice the thickness of the cutting wheel, and its length should correspond to the diameter.

The standard design consists of a frame, swingarm and grinder mount

The pendulum of the cutting machine is a T-shaped piece made of a rectangular metal profile. On the one hand, this unit is attached with a movable joint to the frame bracket, and on the other hand, a fastener for the grinder is attached to it. The movement of the pendulum saw joint is provided by rolling bearings or bushings, and the return of the tool to its original position is provided by a flexible element (rubber band or spring).

The grinder attachment is a console with one or two brackets connected to a pendulum. The angle grinder is bolted to one of them. For this, threaded holes are provided in the housing of its gearbox for attaching the handle. The second bracket is a regular clamp (ladder) that holds the cutting tool by the body.

Ease of use of the equipment can be significantly increased by connecting the grinder to the foot switch-pedal. Of course, in this case, the lever for starting the angle grinder is brought into the working position and fixed with a special button.

Required tools and materials

When starting to manufacture a cutting machine, it should be understood that the accuracy of its work is directly related to the stability of the structure. Therefore, the choice of a material of a certain thickness is dictated not so much by the requirements for the strength of the case as by the need for its rigidity.

Before starting work, you need to prepare:

profile pipe "square" (25x25x2.5 mm);
profile pipe "rectangle" (40x20x2.5 mm);
metal sheet 4–5 mm thick;
ball bearings No. 202, 203 or 204 - 2 pcs .;
a bar calibrated with a thickness equal to the diameter of the bore of the inner bearing race (up to 100 mm);
a bar with a diameter of 8–10 mm;
metal tire (20x4 mm);
M8 or M threaded bolts and nuts.

Of the tools you will need:

Angle Grinder;
drill or drilling machine, a set of drills;
a set of dies for cutting metric threads;
open-end wrenches;
welding machine.

The presence of electric welding is desirable, but not necessary - all connections can be made on threaded connections. However, it should be understood that this method reduces the reliability and strength of the structure.

For the manufacture of the machine, it is better to choose a grinder from a well-known manufacturer

The main unit of the cutting machine is the angle grinder. It is not recommended to use a "small" grinder designed for cutting discs with a diameter of up to 125 mm and a power of up to 500-600 W. Remember that the larger the diameter of the cutting wheel, the more versatile and reliable the machine will be.

The choice of power tools is also due to the wide variety of grinders on the market. Since such equipment is not standardized, the cutting machine is built for a specific model and size of angle grinder. If the equipment is unreliable, then in case of failure it will be difficult to install another grinder in its place without the need to alter the mountings and the pendulum. That is why it is better to choose products from trusted manufacturers - Makita, Bosch and so on.

Making a cutting machine with your own hands

Preparatory stage

Work on a cutting machine begins with design. It is impossible to give the exact dimensions of the device, since the design depends on the model and size of a particular grinder. Nevertheless, according to the presented drawings, one can get an idea of the dimensions and structure of the equipment.

The sketch of the project begins with a drawing of the case. You may not need a frame, but a separate platform that can be attached to a locksmith's workbench. In any case, the dimensions of the device and the location of the main units on the body are determined. Next, the angle grinder and the center distance of the mounting holes on the housing of its gearbox are measured. Based on these indicators, a drawing is drawn up for attaching the grinder to the pendulum. After that, the swivel unit itself is designed. The smaller the distance from the pivot to the cutting wheel, the stiffer and more accurate the machine will be. In other words, the length of the pendulum should be as short as possible.

At the last design stage, it is calculated how much and what material will be needed.

Photo gallery: Drawings for the manufacture of a homemade cutting machine

Drawing of a frame-type cutting machine. Frame dimensions are selected based on the dimensions of the tool used

Drawing of a pendulum-type cutting machine. The dimensions of the base are indicated on the left. The design features of the pendulum are marked on the right.

Step-by-step instruction

In accordance with the drawing, the workpieces of the future machine are cut. Profile pipes are used for the frame and the pendulum, and a metal profile, a metal bus and a steel bar are used for cantilever mounting. If the structure provides for a supporting platform, then sheet steel with a thickness of 4–5 mm is cut to size.
A transverse axis (shaft) for a swivel joint is welded to the pendulum arm, which is a section of a shaped pipe. In this case, it is important to ensure the perpendicularity of the shaft attachment to the pendulum.
After cutting the material, the shaft is welded to the pendulum arm
A U-shaped bracket is bent from a steel tire, holes for bolts are drilled in its lateral sides, with the help of which the gearbox housing of the grinder is attached.
To attach to the threaded holes on the LBM gearbox housing, you will need a U-shaped bracket
A U-shaped clamp (stepladder) and a clamping bar for fixing the tool body to the pendulum are made from a steel bar. The latter is a metal plate 15–20 mm longer than the clamp width. The threaded ends of the ladder fit freely into the holes at the edges of the pressure plate, and the fixation is carried out with nuts with a suitable thread.
Trying on a U-shaped bracket and a clamp to the grinder, these parts are mounted on the console with a welding or threaded connection.
This is how the console for attaching the grinder to the pendulum arm, complete with a U-shaped bracket and a clamp, looks like
The bearings, which will ensure the rotation of the pendulum, are pressed into the supports. As the latter, you can use both ready-made factory bearing assemblies and pieces of steel pipe (15–20 mm) with a diameter equal to the outer bearing race.
The bearing units are pressed onto the shaft from both sides. It is important that the connection is tight to eliminate unwanted longitudinal and lateral displacements. If the resulting connection is weakened for some reason, you can use a proven method - tin the axis with a soldering iron, applying a thin layer of tin on its surface (you will need soldering acid as a flux).
At a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge of the platform, a pendulum assembly with support nodes is welded. In this case, it is important not to overheat the bearings, so these parts are wrapped with wet rags or constantly watered with water to cool.
The pendulum arm complete with bearing assemblies is welded to the platform at a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge
A console with an installed clamp and a U-shaped bracket for angle grinder is welded onto the pendulum arm. The position of the grinder is chosen based on personal preference. There are different opinions on how to attach the grinder ("from yourself" or "to yourself"). Professional locksmiths work with the tool, orienting the sheaf of sparks towards themselves, arguing that if the grinder falls out of the hands for any reason, the tool will fly off in the opposite direction. Hobbyists tend to work with medium or small grinders, so they prefer the disc to rotate "away from themselves", as this allows control of the cut and prevents damage to clothing. When securing the tool, do not forget to place the protective cover correctly - it must protect the worker in the event of a disc rupture.
An angle grinder is attached to the assembled machine. Focusing on the weight of the tool, the return spring is selected and installed. For this, hinges are welded to the frame and the pendulum or holes up to 5 mm in diameter are drilled.
In order not to damage the plastic body of the grinder, strips of rubber are laid between it and the brackets
Carry out a trial run of the grinder. First, they check the operation of the machine in idle mode. At the same time, attention is paid to vibrations and backlash of the working parts of the equipment, which, if necessary, are eliminated.
Using the cutting wheel of maximum thickness, a groove is cut in the machine platform for the cutting disc. If necessary, the grinder is removed and the slot is expanded to the desired size.
This is what the improved stop with clamping device looks like.

At the last stage, stops for workpieces are attached to the platform. Most often, two strips are provided (for a cut at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees), fixing them using a welded or threaded connection.

Often, devices for holding the workpiece are provided with a measuring tool. By attaching a metal ruler to the stop bar with a reference point from the grinder's disk, you can quickly and accurately cut a part of the required length. Also, if desired, you can install protractors, vices and clamps of various designs. Such additional details allow you to make, for example, a full cut or groove in the workpiece at any angle, free your hands, and so on.

Do not forget to paint the fixture after all the finishing activities have been carried out. Even a thin layer of enamel will protect the equipment from rust and make its appearance more aesthetically pleasing.

Video: How to make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands

Safety engineering

In the process of working on the cutting machine (as well as during its operation in the future), safety precautions should be strictly observed. Be sure to use a protective mask or goggles, and position the angle grinder so that the spark is directed "away from you." The high fire hazard of the equipment requires work in a ventilated area and away from fuels and lubricants. During welding, a face shield, thick leather gloves, closed shoes and protective coveralls should also be worn.

When working with the cut-off machine, do not try to speed up the process by over-pressing the tool. In the best case, such a rush can end with a torn disc and a jammed nut of its clamp.

Ensure good grounding when using the welding machine and avoid operating the equipment with exposed cables. Remember that welding in open areas in rainy weather is prohibited. As for the operation of the cutting machine, then when arranging the button to turn it on, secure yourself by installing a simple decoupling with a 12-volt power relay. To do this, you can make a pedal with any non-latching switch (for example, a button for a doorbell) and use any solid-state relay designed for switching currents of at least 10A. A battery or accumulator with a voltage of 5 to 24 V is used as a power source.

A cut-off machine from a grinder is a handy tool that can be easily made if you have the skills to work with electric welding and locksmith tools. A pendulum circular saw made in just one day will save time in the future and will allow you to perform locksmith and welding work accurately and accurately.

A metal cut-off machine is an indispensable tool in a home workshop, a locksmith's shop, on a construction site. Many industrial models of these tools are produced, but their price is sometimes not available not only to a private craftsman, but also to a small enterprise. There is a way out - a do-it-yourself metal cutting machine is not difficult to make. This requires only certain skills in working with a welding machine, locksmith tools, and some qualifications of an electrician. From materials, too, you do not need anything scarce, or not available in free sale.

Materials and tools

For work you will need:

Bulgarian;
welding machine;
drill;
a set of dies, taps, wrenches.

In this article we will consider the manufacture of a machine based on an electric motor

Most of the do-it-yourself metal cutting machines are of the pendulum type. Band machines are more difficult to manufacture, but they can be made in a small workshop or metalworking workshop. For now, let's dwell on the most convenient type of cutting machine - disk. The general design can be seen in the video.

It consists of several main nodes:

electric motor;
pendulum;
drive mechanism;
cutting disc;
desktop.

Let's consider them separately.

Engine

For installation on a metal cutting machine, the engine must have a number of revolutions equal to 2500-3000 per minute. This is due to the fact that it is at these speeds that the cutting disc works optimally.

Drive unit

Drawing of a cutting machine for metal

Console (pendulum)

Desktop

It is not particularly difficult to mount a disc-type cutting machine for a qualified locksmith. It is important to adhere to some fundamental requirements:

correctly calculate the rotational speed of the disk;
adjust the angle of rotation, it must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the desktop;
set the feed force of the disc to the cutting zone;
install an emergency stop button on the handle;
equip the cutting machine with protective guards for the disc and rotating parts.

wikimetall.ru

Self-construction of a metal-cutting machine

An example of a homemade precision machine

When, for whatever reason, you often have to process metal at home, you come to understand that working with a grinder is, at least, inconvenient. Cutting metal is much easier if you have a metal cutting machine. With its help, the cutting line will become perfect, and the streamlined process will go much faster.

But if you think about buying such a machine, and look through the prices in the store, you can find that they are very expensive, not everyone can afford it. The way out of this situation is to make a metal-cutting machine with your own hands.

Homemade metal cutting machine

Equipment classification

So, let's start with general information about metal cutting machines. Structurally, all of them are united by the presence of an electric motor, transmission and cutting disc. Finding a drawing for the manufacture of such equipment is not a problem. Having familiarized yourself with how the disc cut-off machine works, in the process of building it with your own hands, it will not be difficult to make the adjustments you need. Now let's look at the main fundamental nuances:

Drawing of the transmission mechanism for the cutting machine

Cutting equipment is also classified according to the type of saw installation:

Tape machine.
Abrasive cut-off.

The latter is intended for cutting thick metal reinforcement, various rods, square profiles and pipes of different diameters. Here you can also cut various solid parts and profiles at different angles. The band machine works on the basis of a closed cutting saw, so it is not a circular saw, the saw moves on pulleys. It should be said right away that it is easier to build the disc version with your own hands.

Self-production

For self-construction of a disk cutting machine you will need:

Mechanical part of the cutting machine

Steel corner.
Welding machine.
Bearings.
Chain.
On and off button.
Channel.
Electric drill.
Steel sheet for the work surface.
Electric motor.
A box that will contain the electrical component.

Having collected all the necessary materials and tools, you can start building. First of all, it is necessary to make a machine frame from a steel corner. First, according to the drawing, individual elements are cut out, they figure out how they will be combined together, and then they are welded with their own hands into a single structure.

A guide channel is welded to the top of the frame, which will become the basis of the structure for attaching the cutting element of the equipment. With the help of this channel, the connection of the cutting disc with the motor will be carried out. At the next stage, vertical posts are attached to the channel, which are fixed with bolts.

Now we need to weld another frame. It is made individual - for a specific electric motor that will be used in your machine. When choosing an electric motor, look towards induction motors, as they are more reliable and durable. Here's another point: the more power, the smoother the disk will run.

Installation of equipment on the frame

Frame made of shaped tubes

Now you need to connect the working shaft to the electric motor with your own hands. How this will be done is not important, if there is an instruction on the drawing, then follow it. If the installation is done correctly, then the equipment must work correctly and reliably.

Another point: if you cannot make any part yourself, then contact a turner for help. He will be able to make the correct pulley for the belt or flanges for fastening.

It is best to secure the engine to the frame using ordinary bolts and nuts, next to the frame, attach the control panel and the box with the electrical circuit and switch.

The channel on which the cutting element is fixed must be spring-loaded so that, as soon as you release it, it returns to its original position. The most convenient way to secure the spring is with a clamp and bolts.

Pay special attention to the electrical component. There must be an emergency stop button for the machine and a chain for starting. In this case, the electric motor must not be connected to electricity directly, but through the box and the machine. Turning on and starting the electric motor will provide a three-pole starter, through which the shutdown button is also powered.

When making the final do-it-yourself installation, do not forget about the protective casing, which will cover your eyes from flying sparks.

Making a machine based on a conventional grinder

You can also build a cutting machine with your own hands from an ordinary grinder. For example, you have a good reliable Makita grinder, and you still don't need a full-fledged machine, since you will use it from time to time. In this case, just as in the previous version, you need to weld the frame and bed with your own hands, make a movable part from a pipe or channel for installing the grinder.

Cutting machine from a grinder Next, you will have to develop a mount for your specific grinder. The moving part is also spring-loaded, here the technology is similar.

When making such a machine, do not forget also that the grinder has such a concept as a kickback. This happens when the abrasive disc gets wedged in the workpiece and the grinder shoots back. In this case, the fragments of the disc scatter in all directions - this can seriously injure the person who works. Therefore, when building equipment, pay attention to the protective casing, if it is not on the grinder.

Collapsible machine from the grinder

Stationary frame-table for attaching the grinder

Now let's consider another way to make a metal cutting machine from a grinder with our own hands. The advantage of this design is that the machine is collapsible and portable. The tool here will need the same one as for making a full-fledged machine, which we talked about above.

The drawing will depend on the model of a particular grinder.

The first thing you need to know about such a machine is that it is performed on the basis of two frames located on the same axis. Here, the lower frame is made in the form of a movable clamp and corner, and the grinder mount is made moving along a vertical line.

The spring is also present here - it is needed to return the feed mechanism to its original position. Using a welding machine, you can fix a ruler with a special stop.

A similar machine is started from a start pedal, which is connected to the network using a low-voltage relay. Having collected all the details, together the performance of the structure is checked at idle. If everything works fine, no mechanisms rub against each other, then such a machine will serve you for a long time.

Considering that you can install various discs on the grinder, do not forget about the features of the materials that you plan to cut. And, most importantly, never forget about safety precautions when working with metal-cutting equipment.

Video: Homemade cutting machine from the grinder

promtu.ru

Cutting machine for metal

I have long wanted to build an abrasive cut-off machine for cutting metal in my workshop. Cutting metal with a grinder is not always convenient. The grinder copes perfectly with sharp sheet steel, but it takes a long time and is not always convenient to cut off the corner and profile pipes with a grinder. It is necessary to mark out on all sides and cut off the workpiece on one side. Cutting is done on the ground in a bent body position, holding the workpiece with your foot. The back gets tired and sparks fly in all directions. Cutting a round pipe evenly is even more difficult and takes longer. It is more convenient to do this on a metal cutting machine, when there is no need to bend over, and the workpiece is securely and safely fixed in the machine. It is very convenient to make a canopy from cellular polycarbonate or automatic gates on such a machine. The machine was made from “what was at hand”. I tell you and show you what I have done, and you make your own corrections and make the machine even better out of “what is at hand” you have. I do not consider it appropriate to describe in detail the entire manufacturing process, I will only focus on important (in my opinion) points.

The manufacturing process must be performed in the following order:

Manufacturing of the shaft on which the cutting disc and drive pulley will be installed. Assembling the entire unit and installing it on a pendulum (I call the upper, movable part of the machine, on which the cutting disc and the engine is installed, a pendulum).
Installing the engine. Connecting the motor to the cut-off wheel shaft with a drive belt.
Manufacturing of protective covers for cutting disc and drive belt.
Manufacturing the pendulum mounting shaft
Manufacturing of a machine frame with a device for fixing the workpiece, a spark arrester, preparation for the installation of an electrician ...
Installation of the swingarm on the frame.
Wiring.
Test run. Adjustment and debugging.

I made the machine in a different sequence and faced constant alterations and adjustments, because of which the process was delayed. If I decided to make a machine now, I would do everything in that order.

Before starting to make a cutting machine, I studied the experience of other people, from which I realized that:

the motor must be installed at least 3 kW. if the cutting disc is 400 mm.
disk revolutions must be at least 3000 per minute.
it is more convenient to place the disc on the shaft on the right, and the drive pulleys on the left, this will not allow the cutting disc fastening nut to turn off during operation.
bearings for the cut-off wheel shaft will fit both 205 and 204 (I used 205)

I installed a 3-phase motor, since I have a voltage of 380V in the workshop. If you have a voltage of 220 V. in this case you will have to install starting capacitors, there is a lot of information on how to do this on the Internet.

Next, we look at photos of the manufacturing process.

The guard lifts up to replace the used disc with a new one. To do this, you need to unscrew only one M8 bolt from above.

Possibility of adjusting the inclination of the rocker arm using metal plates. I did not install the bearings on this shaft, but simply drilled holes for lubrication from above and plugged them with M6 bolts.

I borrowed the vise for clamping the workpiece from an old factory-made cutting machine, but I had to redo it a bit. With this vice, the clamping screw nut can be divided into two halves, which is very convenient when installing and removing the workpiece.

The return mechanism can be omitted, it is enough just to change the centering of the rocker shaft.

Spark arrester. 97% of all sparks fall into a removable container. Using the stop bolt (bottom), you can adjust the maximum angle of inclination.

How to calculate the required pulley diameter.

We will assume that the cutting disc should rotate at 3000 rpm. The discs are marked with information about the maximum permissible rotation speed of 4400 rpm. So you yourself decide how fast the disk will rotate, the main thing is not more than 4400 rpm.

To calculate the diameters of the pulleys, you need to know:

engine speed
rotation speed of the cutting disc shaft

Calculation example:

Our engine rotates at a speed of 1500 rpm.

The cutting disc should rotate at 3000 rpm.

We have a pulley on the shaft of a cutting disc with a diameter of 65 mm.

What should be the shaft on the motor in this case?

we consider the length of the perimeter of the existing shaft: the number Pi (3.14) is multiplied by the diameter. 3.14 x 65mm = 204.1mm (shaft perimeter length).
the resulting number is multiplied by the required shaft revolutions: 204.1 mm x 3000 rpm = 612 300 mm / min.
we divide what happened by the engine speed: 612 300 mm / min / 1500 rpm = 408.2 mm (perimeter of the engine pulley)
we divide the obtained by the number Pi: 408.2 mm / 3.14 = 130 mm we need a pulley of this size in order to spin the cut-off shaft at a speed of 3000 rpm.

you have available pulleys with different diameters
you only have a suitable pulley for the engine and you need to select a pulley for the cutting disc shaft
You do not have pulleys yet, and you are planning to buy or manufacture them.

How to calculate the length of the drive belt?

The calculation will require the following data:

drive pulley radius
driven pulley radius
distance between the centers of the pulleys.

Calculation example.

We have two pulleys with a diameter of 65mm and 130mm, respectively, their radii are 32.5mm and 65mm. The distance between their centers is variable (in order to tension the drive belt), for an example of the calculation, we take the length between the centers of 500mm.

We consider half the circumference of each pulley in millimeters and add to the resulting number two distances from their centers (since the belt goes from one pulley to another and returns back to the first).

32.5mm x 3.14 (Pi number) = 102.05mm (length of half the circumference of the first pulley)

65mm x 3.14 = 204.1mm (circumference of the second pulley)

102.05 + 204.1 + 500 + 500 = 1306 mm (required drive belt length).

For a more accurate calculation, you need to take the minimum and maximum length of the distance between the centers, choose something in between that suits you.

Here's a cutting machine!

Do the same. Make it even better.

Good luck to you!

Observe safety measures during its manufacture

and operation!

factoryhand.ru

Cutting machine with your own hands: design, diagram, production | Construction portal

Working with a cutting tool, for example, a grinder, many craftsmen understand how much easier it is to cut metal using a simple machine - both the work is more convenient and the cut line is perfect. But when looking at the prices for a metal cutting machine, even the most primitive used one, there is a desire to make something like this device yourself. There are several ways to make a cutting machine with your own hands, for example, based on a grinder or a disc. All designs have their disadvantages or obvious advantages.

The use of cutting machines for everyday life

When working on metal, it is impossible to do without welding, cutting, grinding and other types of processing. The ability to have the simplest machines in your household, for woodworking and metalworking, is a great help to the home craftsman. In those places where it is difficult to get to work, for example, to cut off a metal staircase or change something in the construction of the attic, you will need a grinder or a circular saw. And cutting equal pieces of reinforcement, rods, small pipes and all kinds of metal blanks is much easier to do on the working surface of the machine.

The same cut-off tank can be used for other purposes as well, to cut aluminum, plastic and other synthetic materials. However, it is not recommended to use metal machines for woodworking purposes. Considering the small size of the household metal-cutting machine and the general simplicity of this design, it will not be difficult to place it on your homestead.

To work on the machine, you will need a well-lit area in the yard or garage, an outlet and a flat floor surface. And if it is not needed, it can always be taken to a workshop, pantry or utility room before the next use on the farm. Some designs of self-made machines can be assembled and dismantled, the frame or base of the structure will remain intact.

A homemade cutting machine can also be used not only in the house, but also rented to recoup the costs of its manufacture - in a word, this is a very profitable device.

Classification of machine tools

Structurally, all metal-cutting machines combine an engine with a transmission, a cutting disc and a working surface of the machine. There are drawings for a cutting machine on most sites dedicated to various homemade products. Knowing the basics of the principle of operation of this device, it is easy to make your own adjustments in order to use the materials and mechanisms that are already on the farm.

1. The power of the motor used depends on the expected performance, and it is important to decide on this before making a cut-off machine. Most of the ready-made cutting machines have a fairly high power - up to 2000 watts. Although a machine for domestic use may have smaller parameters, you should not forget that the metal is the same everywhere.

2. It is important to select a suitable kinematic transmission method to maintain the power of the motor on which the machine will operate. The most common are belt and friction transmission, each method has its own advantages. The gearing transmission is gear, worm, chain, but the latter option is the most popular. The belt drive gives the least noise and is used most often on home-made machines, and for more accurate machines it is not suitable due to the likelihood of the belt slipping. However, with any machine design, it is important to remember to observe safety precautions.

3. It is advisable to equip even a home-made machine with a vice - for guaranteed retention of the processed material. A carbide wheel or an abrasive wheel - the choice is up to the master, depending on what is at hand, as well as on the most frequently performed work.

4. Metal cutting angle parameters can vary from 45 ° to 90 °, but usually cutting is done at right angles. Not every homemade machine has this advantage.

5.Diameter of the disc determines the height of the cut piece of metal, but these parameters can be changed. For example, a wide thin-walled pipe can be turned while cutting, but it is difficult to secure with a vise. It is sometimes also problematic to mark a volumetric metal structure on the working surface of the machine. Cutting machines, in most cases, have a working diameter of up to 400 mm.

6. The total productivity of a manual machine for precise cutting of metal largely depends on the speed of revolutions of the disk. The high speed of the machine directly affects the quality of the cut.

7. The mass and dimensions of a home-made machine are formed depending on the material of the general structure, which it is desirable to provide on the legs with vibration dampers.

8. The type of cutting machine also depends on the feed of the cutting tool - pendulum, with bottom or front feed. The disc is fed from the top with a pendulum feed.

9. A self-made machine can have 2 cutting heads or one, respectively, distinguish between single-head and double-head options.

The abrasive cut-off machine is designed for cutting metal reinforcement, rods, profiles, I-beams, pipes of different diameters, solid parts and profiles at different angles. Works with an abrasive wheel.

The band saw or band saw works on the principle of a closed metal strip moving along the pulleys.

At home, the easiest way is to build a metal cutting disc machine. There are several ways how to make a cutting machine with your own hands, but the simplest method will be the most understandable.

The process of making a machine based on a cutting disc

For work you will need:

steel corner,
channel,
drill,
welding machine,
electric motor,
bearing pair,
starting circuit,
switch,
coil,
wooden board or steel sheet for the work surface,
box for ensuring the operation of the electrical circuit.

1. After preparing all the tools, make a frame or a common frame of suitable dimensions, for example, from corner No. 25. Parts of the structure on a cutting machine according to the drawing are measured and cut with a grinder, then they start welding. The finished frame can be mounted on the vibration dampers of the legs, which will facilitate the work of the machine. It is easier to make legs from the same profile or small diameter tubes.

2. Channel # 10 is welded to the resulting table, which acts as a guiding axis; it will become the basis of the structure for fastening the cutting part of the machine and connecting it to the motor. Further, the main parts are attached to the channel, including two vertical bolted posts.

3. Next, it is necessary to weld another frame from the profiles - this is the base for attaching the electric motor and the main cutting disc. On the other side of the frame, an electric motor with a power of about 1.5-2 kW is fixed. Asynchronous motors are considered to be the most durable and reliable. The motor will need to be powered from a 3-phase network. We remind you that a higher power engine will provide a smoother cut and a good speed of metal cutting work.

4. The method of fixing the shaft and the general principle of its connection to the structure are not fundamental. A rifling machine, with proper provision of the supply of revolutions from the electric motor to the rotating shaft, must work reliably. This will help secure the V-belt. Some work can be ordered by a turner (shaft with supports, belt pulley and disc flanges). It is advisable to make a protrusion of the flange with a diameter of 32 mm.

5. Next, the support bearings are fixed in the slots of the plates of the upper frame on the channel. Bolts and nuts can be used to secure the motor and shaft. Ensuring the operation of the electrical circuit - in a finished box with a switch, which is attached to the bottom of the frame.

6. The connection of the struts with a shaft with a diameter of 12 mm is done using a dressed sleeve. To prevent it from slipping, the sleeve and shaft are attached with the smallest clearance for a slip fit. A rocker arm from a channel is welded onto the bushing so that its shoulder is in a ratio of 1: 3.

7. You will need to install a stiff spring near the engine - to ensure, return, it will even fit from an expander. The springs and chains must be bolted securely enough.

8. The electric motor is installed on the side of the smaller section of the rocker arm, and the shaft on the larger side. The belt drive will move the shaft.

9. It is imperative that an emergency stop button and a starting circuit are needed, while the engine must be connected through a box and a three-pole circuit breaker, and the stop button leads to a direct connection to the network. The connection of the machine will be provided by a three-pole starter that starts the electric motor.

10. Remember about the spark that will fly from the disc - provide it with a shroud. The operation is first checked at idle speed, and only after making sure of the reliability of the structure, you can try cutting soft metal, for example, aluminum, in order to correct all inaccuracies. The working surface of the structure can be made of metal or wood and covered with dense plywood, if necessary for work, fix a vice.

The process of making a machine tool based on a grinder

There are several ways on how to make a metal cutting machine with your own hands - there are several good videos on this topic.

The first way. The simplest device is a pipe frame, which at the same time serves as a comfortable handle. On one side, a transverse bar is attached by welding, on which there should be holes for fastening the grinder. On this base, the movable shaft will be attached to a piece of the corner, the same part can be attached to the floor of the garage or to the desktop. And on the other hand, they are fixed to a spring, with the help of which the machine structure can return to its original position. With proper attachment of the grinder, the device will help to produce more accurate metal cutting, while freeing one hand.

Do not forget about the back impact of the grinder, when the tool is thrown back if the abrasive disc is jammed. And shards of abrasive from the destruction of the disc can seriously injure. A grinder fixed to the machine with a closed casing minimizes such consequences. However, the simplest design does not make it possible to perform high-precision cutting, for example, when it is necessary to cut small pieces of steel bar that require further adjustment.

The second way to transform a grinder into a cutting machine for metal work. This machine can be made collapsible.

For work you will need:

welding machine,
drill,
steel corner,
profiled pipe,
channel,
spring,
relay,
identical bearings,
pedal,
bolts,
wooden board or steel sheet for the work surface.

1. A preliminary drawing or sketch is required, where all dimensions and necessary parts are indicated. There are ready-made drawings for a metal cutting machine on the Internet, but you still have to make your own adjustments using what is already available on the farm. An easy sketch does not require precise measurements, it is enough to observe proportions and have an accurate idea of each element of the structure. And remember that you will have to change the frame for different sizes of the working disc of the grinder.

2. Two frames on a common axis are the basis of the simplest machine frame, and it is better to weld them from metal. On the lower part, it is necessary to weld the fastener, which will consist of a movable clamp and a clamping angle. The part on which the grinder will be fixed must be made to move vertically relative to the bottom, like a pendulum. You cannot do without a spring, it is needed to return to the starting position. Additionally, by welding, secure the ruler with a limiter - for accurate measurements.

3. Starting the operation of such a machine will provide a start pedal (button) connected through a low-voltage relay, supplying voltage to the grinder. Checking the structure after switching on must be done at idle speed. If the circle does not touch the casing, rotating freely, then the structure can be applied in practice - a homemade metal cutting machine is ready.

4. This design can be collapsible, and other removable disks can be installed on the grinder. When working with other materials, keep in mind the specifics of the materials when cutting them. Remember the safety and precautions when working on metal.