How to make a jointer with your own hands drawings. Practical do-it-yourself jointer

The hand router is the most versatile tool in the home carpentry workshop. Today the video channel “Do-it-yourself carpentry” talked about one of the most useful ways to use a hand mill for your work, namely how to use it for jointing the edges of long workpieces. This is the story of how a craftsman managed to turn a manual router into a homemade fully functional planer machine.

The result of his work is fine. But for jointing the edges it is poorly suited because of the small base, and when working with thin boards it is completely inapplicable, since it is almost impossible to strictly maintain the perpendicularity of the board face to the planing knives. In addition, with this method of planing the edge, the pressure rollers are strongly worn.

On the Internet, I read that for planing small workpieces, you can use a milling machine with a guide, the parallel working surfaces of which on opposite sides of the cutter - the supply and the receiving - are offset relative to each other by the planing depth. Moreover, the cutting edge of the cutter is rigidly fixed at the same level with the receiving surface.

Therefore, the next tool in the course of work on creating a homemade tool for working on wood after purchasing a thicknessing machine was a powerful hand-held milling cutter, which is permanently installed in a work table with a tabletop size of 75x150 cm.

Modification of a hand router to a machine

I deliberately cut the plate for the router not in the center of the table, but closer to the edge, so that it is more convenient to process the edge of long and wide workpieces, including furniture boards. An aluminum pipe 1.5 m long and 45x95 mm section is used as a guide. Using a pipe as a guide has its advantages. But more on that later.

I made a groove for the cutter in the pipe. For work, a straight groove cutter with a diameter of 12 mm with a cutting edge of 51 mm is used.

Place the router on the table. To do this, remove the plastic overlay on the sole and cutter overhang adjuster. Remove the plate from the table, insert the cutter overhang adjustment screw into the router and fix the plate to the sole with the screws. Place the router with the plate in the table and with the adjusting screws in the corners of the plate, slightly adjust its height so that it is flush with the table surface. Now we will install the cutter and wear rings into the insert. Well, it's done.

Preparing the guide

Let's prepare a guide. In our case, this part of the guide will serve as the feeding surface, and the plate attached to the other side of the guide will serve as the receiving surface. The planing depth will be determined by the thickness of the pad. Laminate strips are used as an overlay. There are two of them - "thin" and "thick" thickness, respectively, 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm. A thick strip is usually used for planing a non-planed edge of a purchased edged board, and a thin strip for finishing a workpiece after sawing it on a circular saw. The strips are attached to the pipe using either double-sided tape or contact adhesive.

We degrease the pipe surface with white spirit and glue a strip of thin plastic to the pipe using aerosol contact adhesive. Now we will install the guide on the table and fix it with clamps from the ends. On the one hand - firmly, on the other, slightly press down so that it can be slightly shifted relative to the cutter. Lower the cutter a little and use the ruler to adjust the position of the guide so that the cutting edge of the cutter is flush with the overlay. The procedure is very responsible, since the quality of the planing depends on the quality of the guide position setting. At the end of the adjustment, we finally fix the guide with clamps.

Homemade planer

Finally, it's time to talk about the important advantage of using a pipe as a guide. To ensure a clean edge surface, it is imperative to organize the removal of chips. For this we use a construction vacuum cleaner. Here he fits perfectly. And it is very convenient to discharge the chips through the guide tube. To do this, it is enough to insert the vacuum cleaner tube into the tube a little before reaching the cutter. That's about it. You can close the second hole in the pipe, in which case the effect will be even better.

Demonstration of a do-it-yourself planer

Let's take a board for demonstration. I sharpened the boards on a thicknessing machine. You can see the quality of the edging yourself. The drops are about 1.5–2 mm. We will flatten the edge on our improvised jointer. The board is long, a little more than 3 m, so we use such homemade goats to support it on both sides of the table.

Well, let's get started. Due to the large depth of unevenness of the edge, you will have to make several passes. Let's check what happened. Now perfectly flat and perpendicular to the face. This pad can be removed quite easily. The glue that I used has one remarkable property: if you cover only one side of the parts to be joined with it and, without keeping it dry until completely dry, press it against the second part, then the connection will be fragile and the parts can then be easily disconnected. This is very convenient in our case. Now it is enough to wipe both surfaces with white spirit and they will be ready for reuse.

From such a pipe, you can make an excellent universal parallel stop for both a milling and a circular machine for. On one side, you can install the shift plates and widen the groove for large diameter cutters, and the other side can be used as a guide for the circular machine. The video shows the whole process of making a home-made, converted from a router, a jointer.

Content:

For any job to be successful, you need to have good equipment and tools. The same statement is also true for amateurs (or professionals) to "tinker" with a tree. Craftsmen for the manufacture of furniture or other wood products are always trying to acquire a variety of tools and devices that can help them in their work.

For example, a planer. This device significantly increases the productivity and quality of woodwork. But not all fans can buy it, because its price is quite high. How to get out of such a difficult situation? There is a solution, and it is quite simple - it is to make a table jointer with your own hands. And the manufacturing process itself will be discussed in the article.

What is a planer machine for?

In a woodworking workshop, there can be a variety of machines, but the most commonly used (of course, except for a circular saw) are planing and thicknessing devices. These two types of aggregates are slightly similar in function, but differ in the way they are used.

If you need to make a piece of wood in the form of a board, bar or shield, then it is better to use a thicknessing machine. Such a device, the main tool of which is the same knife, is capable of cutting the original material into two parallel parts. At the same time, both of them will be adjusted to a certain size.

Thicknesser machines are available as one-sided and double-sided type. In the first case, only one side of the workpiece is processed in one pass. More productive is the double-sided thicknessing machine. Here, the output is already an almost finished part.

For thicknessing machines, the shaft is located above the table top. Moreover, the latter is made massive in order to smooth out large vibrations. In addition, the mechanism is equipped with a special casing designed to dampen noise.

The planer has a slightly different task. This device is used to create a smooth surface without significant roughness on a workpiece. Such a machine, like the previous version, is equipped with a shaft with knives, only in the planer it is located under the table top.

The workpiece is fed to the working surface from one side, the exit from the opposite is already partially processed. This way, layer by layer, the desired evenness is achieved. After processing on a planer, the part can be fed to the thicknessing planer.

Basic concepts

Numerous rotating parts will be present in such equipment. From this we can conclude that it will not be so easy to make such a machine with your own hands. Therefore, when starting to make it, you need to calculate your strength. If you already have some similar experience, then you will be up to the task.
It should be noted right away that you will not be able to make a planer completely from parts of your own production. Of course, perhaps in your "bins" there is a large assortment of various devices, but this is rare. This primarily concerns the shaft with knives and bearings. They will most likely have to be purchased or even ordered. But if everything you need is available, then you can safely start designing.

Some parts for a planer: cutter shaft, knife bearings, you will have to buy or order

First of all, you should understand what kind of "complete set" you want to get. There may be several options:

just a planer. It will only perform one function;
set of jointer and circular saw. In this case, the functionality of the machine is doubled;
equipment capable of performing the role of a jointer, a circular saw, and a grinding device, and a grinding and drilling machine. Such a device will be very useful for your workshop, but it will be difficult to do it yourself.

The most optimal and easiest option is to make a jointer and a circular saw on the same bed. Plus, both tools will rotate from the same electric motor. This feature will greatly facilitate our task.

Consider the main components of our future tabletop planer machine. It will include:

Stanina. This structure will support the entire machine and the equipment mounted on it. For its manufacture, it is best to use strong channels, with a wall thickness of 8-10 millimeters. The bed can be made both collapsible and capital. In the first case, all of its components will be connected using bolts and nuts. If you do not need a portable machine, then the channels can be fixed to each other by welding. This option will be more reliable. You can do without the bed if the desktop will play its role;
Work tool. This is one of the most important components of the machine. The jointer knives and the saw itself - it is with their help that you will saw and process boards. The knives are firmly attached to the shaft. They must be made of reliable and strong steel. Circular saw with victorious solders. Such a tool will serve you much longer;
Rotor - all tools will be attached to it. Without this part, it is impossible to make any machine, thickness gauge or circular saw. Finding a suitable rotor can be quite difficult, so it is better to order it from a professional turner, having previously provided it with drawings;
Desktop. For a properly functioning machine, you need three surfaces. One will serve as a work table for the circular saw and the other two for the planer. The thickness of the material for the work surface must be at least five millimeters. For these purposes, multi-layer plywood or metal sheets are suitable. At the same time, it is desirable to make a small difference in height for surfaces intended for jointing. The side on which the workpiece will be fed must be a couple of millimeters lower than the side to which the already processed side will go. Such a drop will facilitate work and will significantly reduce vibration.

Electric drive of the planer machine

And of course, don't forget about the drive. All mechanisms must rotate. This means that the drive will be the “heart” of the machine. Here are some guidelines for this structural element:
- prepare the electric motor first.

Electric motor for planing machine

It is best to use a three-phase unit for these purposes. Of course, in this case, you may have to redo the electrical network in your workshop, it will be worth it. Three-phase electric motors operating at a voltage of 380 V are capable of developing high power. In addition, the torque of such devices is suitable for our purposes. The minimum power value should be 3 kW, but the maximum at your discretion;

for the transmission of torque from the electric motor to the working shaft, it must be carried out using belts. A two-strand wedge shape is best suited for these purposes. Such belts are more reliable;
the electric motor itself can be cantilevered directly inside the machine frame. This method will help solve the problem related to belt tension. If you want to strengthen the engine more firmly, then you need to add a slide to the structure, with which the adjustment will be carried out;
to increase the shaft speed, it is worth using two pulleys. One of a larger diameter is mounted on an electric motor. A pulley with a smaller section is mounted on the shaft.

Be very careful when supplying power to the machine. The three-phase current is supplied through a four-core cable. In this case, reliable grounding must be organized. These requirements will help to avoid accidents when working on the machine.

Drawing. The main stages of creating a planer machine

Table planer - drawing

Table planer - drawing (part 2)

A planer, its simplest version without additional functions, can be made quite easily with your own hands. The general progress of work in this case will look like this:

first, prepare all the necessary parts, tools and materials;
we create a drawing of the future machine. Without this "document" you cannot start work. With the help of the drawing, you can calculate all the nuances and prepare for them. Moreover, having such a plan will greatly facilitate and simplify the task;
further, we transfer all sizes of future parts to the workpiece and manufacture them;
a very important detail is the location for the rotor bearings. It is made from several blanks.

Bonding uses glue and clamp. The recess should ideally fit the bearing;

further, we are installing the electric motor. To do this, as already noted above, you can use a console mount, or install the unit on a slide;
the next step will be to assemble the rotor with the bearing and install them in their place. At the same time, it is connected to the electric motor using a belt drive. Check that the rotor rotates freely in the bearing;
further, the assembly and installation of the working surface is carried out. It will consist of two parts - the sending and the receiving. In this case, the second should be a couple of millimeters higher than the first. The work surface can be made of plywood, and upholstered with sheet metal for greater strength and increased service life.

After creating the system for turning on and off the electric motor, the machine is ready for use. But in order for your new tool to bring only benefit and joy of work, it is worth using it correctly and safely.

A rotary machine, like any mechanism, needs proper operation. If you do not follow certain rules, then the device can quickly fail. And in the worst case, you yourself will get hurt. Therefore, when using, you should follow the recommendations from specialists:

for the machine to work reliably, it is necessary to periodically carry out maintenance work. Such a complex includes the following measures - checking the reliability of the location of the knives on the shaft, extrusion of the bearings, checking the electric motor, inspecting the belt drive for sufficient tension, checking all contacts, and so on;
rotating parts are always dangerous. And if they are still equipped with sharp blades, then the risk of getting herbs is very high. To increase the safety of operation, it is better to cover the shaft with knives with a cover. It will open at the origin of the wooden blank, and again close at idle;
observe all safety precautions when working on the machine. This is especially true for the quality of lighting in the workplace. Hang a powerful lamp over the machine, and the very room of your workshop should be light. Also pay attention to the quality of the floor. If it is too slippery, then it is better to install a wooden platform or rubber mat;
do not use excessive force when planing or cutting material. Excessive force will not speed up the work, but only spoil the workpiece or lead to breakdowns of the machine itself;
do not hesitate to invite an assistant when processing long workpieces. So the work will be done faster, better and safer for your health.

Of course, it's worth keeping your desktop clean. After finishing work, with the machine turned off and de-energized, clean the device from chips. The same must be done periodically to perform large volumes. Turn off the machine and remove any accumulated shavings from all mechanisms and surfaces. Cleanliness will make your work easier and will help keep the unit working for a longer period.

The video will discuss in detail one of the options for a homemade planer machine.

Video: homemade planer machine

The planer is used for mechanical processing of wood using a cutting tool. It is used for planing in the rectilinear direction of wooden parts along the surface or edges. By the number of cutting mechanisms, two-sided and one-sided machines are distinguished, the first version of the equipment is designed for jointing two adjacent surfaces at the same time.

The supply of the workpiece to work is organized mechanically or manually. For mechanical movement of the part, an automatic feed device attached to the machine or a conveyor built into the unit is used. For dust cleaning and chips are provided with chip receivers.

Jointer device

The unit consists of structural parts:

bed;
table;
fan fencing;
guide ruler;
knife shaft.

The bed is designed to support all the elements of the machine and workpieces to be machined and can withstand significant weight. It is made from a profile with a large margin of safety, for example, a channel or an I-beam.

The table is equipped with two plates - front and back. The back plate with its surface is located tangent to the contour of a cylindrical shape obtained by twisting the knife blades. The surface of the front plate is located lower from the back plate by the thickness of the removed layer in one pass of the part. The guide fence and work table are made with smooth and even surfaces.

The knife shaft is installed between the work table plates. Cutting knives are selected of the same shape and weight, and the edges of the knives are set so that they simultaneously and evenly describe the cylindrical contour of processing.

The guide fence is positioned in the grooves on the working surfaces and is bolted in place. The ruler moves across the table when the width of the workpiece changes.

The fan-shaped shaft guard is fixed on the front plate of the working table. To protect the cutter shaft, a fan-shaped contour spring is provided against the guide fence.

It is most convenient to work with workpieces from one to one and a half meters, short parts are dangerous and inconvenient to hold, long ones are pulled out due to the fact that their dimensions exceed the length of the table. The cutterblock slot is fitted with two flush-mounted steel plates. The distance from the edge of the pad to the contour described by the blades is not should be less than 3 mm, while the edges are sanded, and dents and dents have been removed from them.

The cutter shafts are cylindrical in shape, but it is not recommended to use segment pads for this, which in the process of shaping due to the large centrifugal force or loosening of the fastening. Clamping method is common knives in trapezoidal grooves and fixing with bolts and wedges, in this version, when rotating, the knives are additionally jammed.

Preparing the planer unit for work

Before the start of planing, the structural parts are adjusted and the installation of working elements is controlled.

Planer table adjustment

The difference between the surfaces of the back and front plates is set in the range from 1.25 to 1.5 mm, this makes it possible to align the plane in two passes of the workpiece. To ensure that the installation parameters of the back plate do not change during operation, locking devices are provided for fixing. Between cutterblock and sponge the back plate of the table provide a distance of 5 mm.

The material for the table plates is gray cast iron. Rigid ribs are made on the reverse side of the working plane to reduce vibration movement. To prevent wear of the slab ends under abrasive load, steel plates are made, they also serve to reduce the distance from the edges of the blades and provide additional safety of work.

Fitting the working blades

Knives are selected with straight blades, the deflection is checked with feelers and a straight edge, while the gap should not exceed 0.1 mm. Prepared and tested knives are installed in sequential order, with the edges of the blades protruding 1–2 mm above the edge of the steel plates of the slot. The parallelism of the knives with each other is checked with a control bar or a special indicator.

When using an indicator, the setting accuracy is greater than when using a control bar. Avoid distortions of the blades when fastening, they should be located on a common cylindrical contour of rotation, while the axis of the cylinder coincides with the axis of the knife shaft. It is forbidden to use any type shims when installing the blades, knives that have become unusable from grinding or changing the width of the blade are replaced without fail.

Control bar

Used to set up a planer when installing the cutting blades. The device is made of dried hardwood, the control edges are processed with high precision. The bars are made with a section:

20 × 30 for a length of 400 mm;
20 × 50 for a length of 400 or 500 mm;
30 × 50 or 30 × 70 for a length of 500 mm.

In the process of using the bar, its edges are checked and additionally verified and fugged to remove teeth and depressions. When installing the knives, the measuring device is placed on the back plate of the work table. Turning the shaft by hand, the blades are made to touch the underside of the bar. The position is controlled at three points of the shaft, in the middle and at the ends at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge. The adjustment is carried out until you achieve uniform protrusion of the knives at all intervals and the same touch.

Planer-thicknessing unit

It is a combined machine with a combination of thicknessing and planing processing. After the initial sawing of the boards, they come in for the final removal of all irregularities. Differs from the planer unit, which allows you to plan to the selected depth. The knife shaft with blades is located between the receiving table, fastened to the bed, and the receiving surface; in some models, the cutting tool is installed under the table or on top of the plane. To set it in size and adjust, use a ruler attached to the body.

Simultaneous planing and thicknessing processing allows the workpiece to be planed to a selected depth, therefore it is used in large production facilities. It works perfectly in the conditions of a construction site, where wood is brought with primary processing, and subsequent planing to size is carried out on the site before installation into the structure.

Making a machine with your own hands

To begin with, they are determined with the number of functions of the future unit... This could be:

simply a planer with one planing operation;
a combination of a jointer and a circular saw that doubles the utility of the equipment;
add a grinding, grinding and drilling function, but for your own workshop with your own hands, making a complex set of equipment is a difficult task.

Often, craftsmen independently make a planer with a sawing function, while the torque is transmitted from one electric motor, it includes structural elements:

Electric drive of the machine

The work of the planer and saw is based on rotational functions, which is why the drive is called the heart of the unit. A three-phase motor is suitable as an electric motor, sometimes the wiring in the workshop is converted for this. 380V three-phase units are characterized by high power and suitable torque. The minimum allowable engine power is 3 kW, the maximum is not limited.

The transmission of rotation from the motor to the shaft is carried out by means of a belt drive. V-shaped double-strand belts work well in such conditions, they are distinguished by their reliability in operation. The electric motor is mounted by means of a console inside the frame structure of the bed, the installation method helps to adjust the tension of the belts. Another way is to mount it with a slide - this still allows adjustment, but the motor itself is more firmly fixed.

To accelerate the rotation of the shaft, two pulleys of different diameters are used. The larger one is placed on the electric motor, the smaller pulley is placed on the shaft. A four-core cable is chosen to supply electrical power, this wiring reduces the risk of work.

The main stages of work

The progress of work in the manufacture of a planer machine looks like this:

Features of operation

Woodworking equipment, like any other, requires care and caution, adherence to certain work rules:

Operating rules shown in the video.

The use of electrical wood processing is effective in comparison with manual planing, planing. To obtain high-quality workpieces without injuries and accidents, safety precautions and equipment operation rules are observed.

Making a jointer with your own hands, if you have at least basic knowledge about the device of this tool, is not difficult at all. The task is greatly simplified if you have an old electric planer in your arsenal - it will become the main component of a home planer machine.

The jointer is widely used in wood processing - with its help it is easy to make the surface smooth, get rid of irregularities and roughness, and give the lumber a neat look. With such a multifunctional tool at hand, you will significantly expand your possibilities in the field of woodworking. With a jointer, it is easy to collect furniture with your own hands, to make lining or parquet.

Purpose of the jointer

Working with wood can be not only a pleasant hobby, but also an opportunity to provide all the necessary interior items. In the presence of specialized tools, home-made furniture in quality and appearance will not differ much from factory-made counterparts. The planer is one of such tools, it makes it possible to make the surface of the wood perfectly flat, to prepare it for gluing, varnishing or applying a decorative pattern.

A jointer, or planer, is a tool for finishing sawn timber of great length and width. Processing is carried out by removing a small (1-2 mm) layer of material using a rotating shaft, into which sharp blades of hardened metal are mounted.

The principle of operation of the jointer is identical to that of the planer, with the difference that the jointer is fixed in place, and the material being processed itself moves. The extended length of the fixture allows it to be used to create a beautiful look on wide flat surfaces

Selection of components for the jointer

In order to assemble a planer from an electric plane, it is not at all necessary to disassemble a new tool. A plane that was previously used for its intended purpose is quite suitable. The disadvantage of some modern models of such devices is that their plastic case looses over time, cracks and chips appear on it. It becomes unsafe to work with such a plane, but it fully meets the requirements for creating a planer machine. All you need to do is turn the plane over and, in this form, fix it in a previously prepared workbench.

The choice of an electric planer model is one of the important points when assembling a machine. Most of the models have a planing width of 82 mm, which is quite suitable for home use. More expensive and powerful planers are equipped with a 100 or 110 mm shaft. In the latter case, such parameters allow you to drive boards and beams 10 cm wide through the tool, without leaving untreated areas.

It is worth paying attention to the additional functions of the electric planer: some models are already equipped from the factory with special devices that allow you to turn the tool into a full-fledged planer machine. Such a plane can be fixed with the sole upward, while the safety of work is ensured by a spring-loaded protective casing.

If there is a need to process materials whose width exceeds 110 mm, then it will be very inconvenient to do this with an electric plane, since the board will have to be driven several times, which increases the time required and reduces the accuracy of work. In this case, it is worth considering the possibility of assembling a powerful jointer, the main components of which will be a separate shaft and a powerful electric motor. Although the cost of the shaft is often more than half of the price of all materials, having such a tool in your arsenal, you will no longer be limited in your possibilities regarding woodworking.

The planing width of a full-fledged jointer equipped with a shaft is in the range from 25 to 85 cm and more, but at the same time it is necessary to take into account the fact that an increase in this parameter entails an increase in engine power consumption.

The optimum engine power depends on several parameters:

shaft width;
number of knives;
the width of the processed timber.

The dependence is direct: the more important the listed parameters are, the higher the engine power should be. For home machines, motors for 1.5-2 kW have proven themselves well. The shaft rotation speed of such machines is 4-4.5 thousand revolutions per minute, the width of the processed material is 25-40 cm.

Assembling the jointer

The jointer assembly is carried out in several stages. First, you need to assemble the body of the workbench, into which the electric plane will subsequently be mounted. The body looks like an ordinary wooden box without a bottom. From above it is covered with a thick sheet of plywood, in which a hole is cut to install the planer. Plywood will bear the weight of the tool, and to work with the material, it must be covered with two more sheets, the thickness of which will differ by 1-2 mm. They are installed on the right and left sides of the planer. Thin plywood plays the role of the feeding table, and thick plywood - the receiving table.

The principle of interaction between the feeding and receiving tables is extremely simple: the lumber, moving along one half of the workbench, reaches the plane, while a layer of shavings with a thickness of 1-2 mm is removed from it. Already processed wood with one end falls on the receiving part of the table, where it takes a stable position, thereby allowing the rest of the board to pass over the plane. In addition to the support function, this provides a reduction in vibration and makes it possible to provide a reliable stop during work.

Assembling a planer with a shaft is a little more difficult, but with experience it will also not take much time. Such a machine consists of similar parts - a body, a feeding and receiving table, a compartment for collecting chips. Not superfluous in such a model of a home-made device would be a speed reducer, which will reduce the speed of rotation of the shaft to pass problem areas - significant irregularities, knots, etc. Of great importance is the calculation and exact fit of all elements of the housing to each other, ensuring a reliable engine mount and perfect alignment of the work tables.

Safety measures at work

The jointer, due to a combination of dangerous factors - high shaft rotation speed and the presence of sharp blades, refers to potentially traumatic equipment. Working with it requires strict adherence to a number of safety rules. This is especially true for self-made tools: incorrect calculation of the elements that make up them often leads to fatal consequences. To avoid problems in working with a planer machine, you need to adhere to the following requirements:

Before starting work, you need to wait until the shaft reaches maximum speed.
Under no circumstances should the working tool be inspected, lubricated or cleaned from chips during operation. To do this, you need to stop the machine, de-energize it and only then proceed with maintenance.
When processing small parts, the length of which does not exceed 40 cm and the width is 5 cm, a special vertical stop should be used. It looks like a thick board, which is fixedly attached to the feed work table.
To increase the safety of work, the jointer shaft can be equipped with a special protective flap. With the forward movement of the material, it moves away, and after the end of processing it returns to the starting position using a system of springs. At the same time, the shaft blades remain closed from accidental contact.
Lighting is of great importance - all work must be carried out under the light of a powerful lamp, or on the street.

Wood processing is one of the most popular activities among passionate people around the world.

This material is relatively cheap, easy to grind, and the finished product coated with varnish, paint or stain will last for decades without losing its external aesthetics and strength.

Interior items, furniture and much more can be made independently, for this it is not at all necessary to spend money on the purchase of expensive equipment or materials.

Even the fact that plastics and various metal alloys are replacing wooden products everywhere does not diminish the interest in woodworking among enthusiasts.

This is both a wonderful hobby and the opportunity to surprise loved ones with unique gizmos made with your own hands.

The advice of experienced woodworkers suggests that it is not necessary to run to hardware stores if you need an additional tool to perform a certain type of work.

Something you can do with your own hands. For example, such a joiner's tool as a jointer.

What is he like? The jointer can be classified as a plane we are used to, but with slight changes in appearance, which means it is designed to perform certain tasks.

The increase in the jointer length makes it possible to process wide flat surfaces. The planing mechanism in this case is the same as when working with a plane.

Individual decorative or small elements cannot be processed with such equipment, but if it is necessary to achieve a flat and flat surface of the product, it is irreplaceable.

Making a manual jointer from a planer and long polished pieces of wood is a simple task for any person who is more or less experienced in carpentry. Therefore, it is not worth spending large sums on its purchase.

Having devoted several evenings to making such a tool, you will replenish your arsenal with quite practical and necessary equipment for processing wood.

Electric planer jointer do it yourself: how to do?

For those who have turned their hobby into something more and seeks to expand the range of their tools, we suggest trying to make a jointer yourself. Interesting and useful at the same time.

The presented by us option of manufacturing woodworking equipment, subject to the technology, allows you to get a tool with high accuracy.

To do this, we will use boards or plywood sheets already processed in advance using a jointer and a planer.

An electric plane jointer: how to build equipment yourself

In order to make a jointer with your own hands, you will need a wooden box, tightly knocked together, three sheets of plywood of different thicknesses (for which we will explain along the way so as not to confuse), an electric planer, bolts and nuts for fastening. Let's start with the box.

You can take a ready-made box without a bottom, but it's better to do it yourself. The fact is that the box must be of an elongated rectangular shape so that there is where to swing when joining.

We cover the knocked-down box with a sheet of plywood, after cutting a hole in it, and place the plane in the box, with the knives up, or with the sole, which is actually the same thing.

If the plane is interskolovsky, then it has a special device for attaching it to the table with knives upside down, these elements are called adaptations.

We put two more sheets on top of the base plywood sheet with the already attached plane.

What is special: one of the sheets will be 2 mm thicker. This will be the receiving sheet, that is, the one onto which the wooden beam leaves after the jointing (we assume that 2 mm will be the layer that will be cut off by the jointer).

The second sheet is respectively 2 mm thinner. This will be the feeding layer, the one from which the wooden bar is fed onto the plane's blade.

The sole of the planer should be raised above the main plywood sheet so that the sole and the receiving layer are on the same plane, and the supply plywood is 2 mm higher.

The jointer must be firmly screwed in with bolts and nuts so that the fastening can be adjusted if necessary.

Electric Planer Jointer: Manufacturing Instructions

Method 1. Vertical placement of the working surface of the electric plane

Turning an electric plane into a jointer will not take much time and effort. Materials are also not needed. Remnants of wood are suitable, which can be used for the general good. The first option for using an electric plane as a jointer involves the vertical arrangement of the working surface and the cutting knife.

This arrangement allows you to machine both narrow and wide workpieces. In this case, the workpiece moves freely over the table surface.

The idea of \u200b\u200bthe device is quite simple, but the nuance is that it will not be suitable for use on any table, for its use you need a carpentry workbench of a special design with the possibility of external side attachment.

It is very easy to install the electric planer in an upright position with one. It should be noted that the fixture is made of 12 mm plywood for the DeWalt 680 OS electric planer. If you have equipment of a different model, then the device adapts to the design features of the existing plane.

Equipment installation includes the following operations:

insert the mounting bolts into the T-shaped profile and do not clamp them, but only slightly tighten them;

remove the pressure plate and install the plane;

we put the pressure plate in place, but do not tighten, but only slightly bait;

we set the working surface of the planer strictly perpendicular to the table top using a measuring tool;

the angle should correspond to 90º. The angle can be obtained using an M8 adjusting screw connection. The nut is installed in the plywood plane, and the screw passing through it rests against the handle of the electric planer, thereby changing the angle between the sole and the table surface. On the handle of the tool, in the place where the screw will be pressed, it is advisable to install a metal plate on double-sided tape. After setting the required size, the screw must be tightened with a lock nut;

we remove the standard side stop from the planer, and in its place we put a self-made protective casing. It is best to use a Ø8 threaded rod with a 30 mm threaded end as the rod for the guard. The size of the casing is 150x150 with a rounding;

a distinctive feature of such an installation is the ability to install the knives tangentially, as shown in the photo. Then the cleanliness of processing is improved and the workpiece is much easier to feed;

after all the settings are completed, tighten all the wing nuts and install additional clamps in order to avoid accidental violation of the settings during the jointing process.

Make sure that the cutting tool of the planer does not touch the table surfaces. This point must be taken into account when making the device.

As a clamp, you can use a flat board or level, having previously set and clamped them with clamps, and even more correctly, make a comb, following the example of a milling machine. The comb should be fixed with clamps.

Before attaching it, set the processing depth. The recommended amount of material removal in one pass is not more than 1 mm.

Now you need to clamp the comb with clamps, which in length should go to the unregulated side of the planer working surface.

It is better to orient the sawdust suction downwards to prevent clogging of the pipe. In this position, the processing waste can be collected without connecting the forced suction of the shavings, it is enough to tie a plastic bag.

In view of the fact that the inclusion of an electric planer is blocked, it is best to turn it on using a remote socket, but if one is not available, then it is necessary to use a switch, placing it in a convenient place near the working jointer.

Next, we take the workpiece and check the work of the do-it-yourself electric jointer. We check the treated surface for cleanliness and perpendicularity of the planes. The new electric planer planer is ready to go.

As noted earlier, vertical jointing requires a professional table. If you do carpentry work all the time, and you have such a table in stock, then the vertical installation of the plane is for you. But if your carpentry activity comes down to one-time work from time to time, then you will be more interested in another method of jointing with a horizontal arrangement of the work surface.

Method 2. Horizontal placement of the working surface of an electric plane

Consider the manufacture of a jointer based on an electric plane of the Status PL82SP trademark.

There are two reasons why we chose this particular tool. Firstly, it is quiet, which is a great advantage in a small home workshop. Secondly, the delivery set includes brackets for mounting the plane exactly horizontally. We will use them when making a jointer with our own hands.

Take a board 85 × 12 cm. We propose to use a thermal tree, it does not pick up moisture, so it does not lead during operation. But this is not important, you can use any material that is at hand. This board will serve as the base of our planer. We drill Ø 6.5 through holes for fixing the planer brackets.

On the reverse side of the board we drill a Ø12 hole to the depth of the M6 \u200b\u200bbolt head height.

Insert the M6 \u200b\u200bbolts and tighten the nuts.

We attach the brackets to the bolts and install the plane. The tool axis must match the base axis.

Since the back of the working surface is not adjustable, we will take it as a base. We set a long level on it and measure the height from the top of the base to the working surface along both edges of the bottom board. They must be identical. In our case, this is 18 cm.

We prepare two blanks from the board, which will serve as table extensions. One of them is 27 cm long, the other 35 cm.The width is 10 cm.

We also cut out a workpiece from a board 5 cm thick, the length of which corresponds to the sum of the lengths of the extenders, and the width in total with the height of the extender is 18 cm.

We cut the blanks to length and cut them in the middle at an angle.

We are preparing 4 more blanks. Two of them are 25.5 × 7.5 cm, and two more are 20.5 × 7.5 cm.

Now you need to make a groove in these blanks. To do this, you can use a milling cutter, but if you do not have such equipment, then we do it using a jigsaw and a hand drill. First, we drill holes for the entry and exit of the canvas, and then cut the groove. Using sandpaper, we clean and adjust the size to 8 mm.

We drill through holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, using a countersink we make a chamfer on the hole.

We connect the blanks strictly in the middle, as shown in the photo, be sure to first secure them with clamps.

We take the counterpart of the workpiece, drill a hole. We insert the furniture bolt with a square thrust bearing and twist the wing nut and washer. The table lifting unit is ready.

The next step is gluing the table extension to the lifting unit.

We fix the tables to the base with self-tapping screws. When fastening, it is important that the edge of the rear part overlaps the knife.

We make a parallel stop, fix it shown in the photo. When installing the stop it is important to maintain a 90 ° angle between the table surface and the stop.

We are testing the received machine. Such a budget option for a jointer will be a great help in your workshop.

Basic safety rules when working on a jointing machine.

In view of the fact that the table is an equipment of increased danger, we consider it obligatory to focus on the safe rules of its operation.

The machine must always be securely fastened. If this is a mobile version, then two clamps are used as fasteners, if the stationary jointer is securely attached to the table on bolted joints.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the reliability of the fastening of the knives and tighten them if necessary. Do not work with blunt knives, as you have to apply excessive force, and this can lead to injury.
A protective cover is required. It cannot be removed. To process workpieces, use all kinds of pushers, exclude manual work in the knives rotation zone.
Excessive vibration, imbalance, runout and extraneous noise of the equipment are not allowed.
It is forbidden to work on the machine with gloves.

Jointer + planer planer: idea

Sometimes there is a need for a thickness gauge. Converting an electric plane into a planer is quite simple. Of course, if we are not talking about a potential machine tool, but about a kind of hand-made device to obtain two parallel planes.

To make such a primitive machine, you need to spend a little time with the same amount of material. We divide the thicknesser manufacturing process into three stages.

Stage №1 Preparation of the base.

We take the board and fix it securely. On it, in the middle, in the size of the width of the planer knives, we attach two slats. The distance between them will be the maximum width of the processed parts. Along the width of the board, we fasten two strips with a length corresponding to the length of the plane.

Stage 2 Preparation of the tool.

To adapt the electric planer as a working tool of the future planer, it is necessary to remove the front part of the planer working surface and replace it with a plywood or OSB sheet. We fasten two strips along the width of the plywood with a length corresponding to the length of the plane.

Stage 3 Structural connection.

We use 4 slats as legs, which we connect with self-tapping screws to the strips on the tool and the base of the device. For convenience, you can apply a bolted connection using a furniture bolt with a wing nut. The processing size is set for the calibrated part.

Such an idea of \u200b\u200ba thicknesser will not satisfy the needs of a carpentry workshop, but in a household with a single production it has the right to life.

Jointer from an electric plane with his own hand: pros and cons

The main advantage of a jointer made from an electric plane is its price. The materials needed to transform the tool are always at hand. The costs will be minimal, in contrast to the purchase of a new jointer. In addition, the mobility and now the versatility of the unit impresses. Another plus is the high cleanliness of the treated surface.

The final processing of wooden products using such equipment is a very interesting and, most importantly, a convenient task. The disadvantages of the design are that it has a small jointing width and a small length of the working surface.

It is worth considering in advance such important issues related to cleaning the air in the workroom and removing sawdust.

For example, since the jointer is homemade, you can think of something like a bag for collecting sawdust, this will save you from fine wood dust, not completely, but still. The power tool not only speeds up certain operations, but also increases the amount of debris flying around the corners. The use of a vacuum cleaner will provide maximum suction of chips from the working area.

Lighting also plays an important role when working with it. Machine with increased danger, therefore it is necessary to ensure sufficient luminous flux. It is best to carry out such work in the fresh air in daylight.

If the season or other conditions do not allow this, equip your workplace with maximum comfort.

And also you can watch a video of the jointer from the electric plane

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