Wall insulation in a panel house. How to properly insulate a panel house? DIY installation

In the previous article, we talked about ... Today we will discuss how to insulate a wall in a panel house from the inside. We want to warn you right away that, if possible, it is necessary to give preference to external insulation. When installing thermal insulation from the inside, the dew point shifts into the wall, more precisely, to its inner part. It turns out that condensation forms under the insulation, and with it mold. To avoid this, you need to use insulation that can let steam through, the best option is stone wool.

Materials for insulating the walls of a panel house from the inside

From the inside, it is best to use stone wool.

Before proceeding with an overview of how to insulate a wall in a panel house from the inside, let us dwell on the materials. For internal work on thermal insulation of walls, the following are used:

styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
all types of mineral wool;
insulation paint.

Insulation of a panel house from the inside, as a rule, is accompanied by the construction of false walls made of plasterboard, although if you do not plan to hang anything on the walls, then you can get by with several layers of plaster on top of the insulation. Plastering can be done on polystyrene and its derivatives, as well as on top of high density mineral wool.

Minvata

Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool are equally popular when insulating a panel house from the inside, but cotton wool will still be preferable. Why is that:

cotton wool is an environmentally friendly material;
cotton wool allows moisture to pass through;
does not burn or smoke.

Of all types of mineral wool, it is preferable to opt for ... Unlike all other types, it is not afraid of moisture, has the highest degree of resistance to heat. Insulation of the wall from the inside of a panel house with stone wool allows you not to use membranes - these are films for hydro and vapor barrier. The insulation will allow steam to pass in both directions, just like the concrete wall itself. This property allows you to avoid the accumulation of condensation between concrete and thermal insulation, respectively, there will be no mold either.

A big problem when insulating a wall from inside a panel house is the transfer of the dew point to the middle of the room. The dew point is the boundary where warm air meets cold air, resulting in condensation. So if you create conditions for the condensate to find a way out, then you don't have to worry about the appearance of a fungus.

Expanded polystyrene

The foam is simply glued to the wall, without additional fixing with dowels.

With foam, things are a little different, since it practically does not let steam through. Because of this, all the negative consequences of the dew point shift will sooner or later make themselves felt. Mold is not visible under a layer of insulation, but it will be there. In this case, small spores of fungi will still fall into the middle of the room, and you will breathe them. This is extremely undesirable, since, getting into the body, they can cause various diseases, sometimes very serious.

If you still decide to work with polystyrene foam, then before insulating an apartment in a panel house from the inside, carefully study the characteristics of ordinary and extruded polystyrene foam. Extruded is more dense, it is significantly more expensive than usual, but at the same time the only benefit for the overpaid money is a lower degree of flammability. It burns, just not as much as normal. Their thermal conductivity is almost the same (+/- hundredth part).

Insulation with foil

Reflective insulation is a separate topic altogether. Its effect is not as significant as the ego is portrayed. As an independent material, there is almost no sense from it, unless in tandem with other heaters and then, if there is free finance. What reflective insulation does:

reflects infrared rays from the material in front of the ventilation gap. Usually it is drywall, of course, there is almost no IR radiation there;
does not allow moisture to pass through - it is convenient if you insulate yourself with mineral wool. If you are using stone wool or foam, then no additional waterproofing is needed;
thanks to the base of foamed polyethylene, it dampens noise and vibration - a few millimeters of polyethylene cannot be compared with the effect of a 5 or 8 centimeter insulation.

There are no compelling arguments in favor of using reflective insulation, especially given the fact that the cost of insulation will be almost twice as expensive.

Insulation paint

Another new method of how to insulate a panel house from the inside appeared thanks to engineers in the space industry. In space, weight is of decisive importance, so the task was to develop an ultra-thin and lightweight insulation, which was done. So there was a paint-insulation, which was used to cover the hulls of space shuttles.

Today it is commercially available as liquid thermal insulation, which is used to insulate walls, pipelines, etc. The bottom line is that the paint has special granules that do not allow heat to pass through. At the same time, for some reason, doubts arise that a thin layer of paint will cope with reducing the heat loss of a room in the same way as 5 cm of mineral wool or foam.

Methods of work on wall insulation from the inside

Foam glue is best for gluing foam boards.

Heaters in the apartment are attached to the concrete walls from the inside under false walls made of plasterboard. If you followed the path of least resistance and chose stone wool or, in extreme cases, foam plastic as thermal insulation, then there should be no difficulties in work. How to insulate a corner apartment in a panel house:

installation of a structure made of metal profiles;
laying under the guides of thermal insulation on glue - you need to create a monolithic screen, so there should be no gaps at the joints;
sheathing of a metal structure with plasterboard.

On drywall, after it has been putty, you can glue any finish: tiles, wallpaper, decorative stones, papier-mâché, or just paint. There are situations when it blows strongly from the corners. In this case, the question arises of how to insulate the corners in a panel house? Alternatively, you can simply blow them out with polyurethane foam from the inside or cover the joints of the plates with sealant. This should help, but if capital measures are needed, then it is necessary to insulate the inter-panel seams from the outside. There is a technique called "Warm seam". It involves cleaning the seam from all contents, filling it with special polyurethane foam, laying Vilatherm and sealing the seam with mastic.

How to insulate a balcony in a panel house

Putty can be applied directly over the foam.

We have already told you more than once how to insulate a balcony in a panel house. In principle, the technique is no different from wall insulation, only on the balcony the thermal insulation is glued to the floor and ceiling. Let's better think about how to do this with minimal costs and as quickly as possible. How do you see an already insulated balcony? Really clapboard or plastic? If yes, then:

glue the foam to the wall with glue foam;
put a wooden lathing on top - fix it to the wall with dowels directly through the foam;
fasten the plastic trim elements to the crate with a stapler.

The thickness of the foam must be at least 50 mm, and preferably all 80 mm. No Penofol is needed - money wasted. It is not necessary to fasten the foam sheets with plastic dowels, they will not disappear 100% anyway. The gaps between the sheets are also blown out with foam glue, the remnants can not be removed, there will still be a finish. If you think that it would be more profitable to buy a universal construction glue, then you are mistaken - its price (relative to consumption) is equal to the price of glue-foam, only plastic dowels will still be needed. You will also have to drill a lot, and if the walls are thin, then nothing good will come of it.

Another option for insulating a balcony in a panel house is for painting. You will not hang pictures or shelves on the walls there. The first layer of putty is applied to the foam glued with glue-foam, the fiberglass reinforcing mesh is sunk into it, then another layer of putty is applied. Then the surfaces are allowed to dry, primed and painted. In this case, the foam must be taken with a density of at least 25 kg / m3. This method is convenient, as you can always repaint the walls in a different color.

Internal insulation of a panel house without overpayments

Most often, insulation of a corner room in a panel house is required, since it has at least two outer walls. If there is no way to warm from the outside, then you have to do it from the inside, although the first option is more correct and better. To make the apartment really warmer, you need to use foam or mineral wool at least 50 mm, preferably 80 mm. It is not necessary to take extruded polystyrene foam, it is unreasonably more expensive than usual. The only difference is that it does not burn and smoke so much.

Ideally, it is better to opt for stone (basalt) wool. It allows moisture to pass through, does not burn at all, and therefore does not smoke. It does not absorb moisture, so no steam or water barriers are needed. But she's dear - that's her only drawback.

A budget option for wall insulation from the inside:

50 mm foam is glued to glue-foam, the joints are sealed;
a structure made of metal profiles is installed;
wall plasterboard is attached.

Let us remind you again that no reflective insulation is needed - it is expensive and ineffective. It is good only for a bath, where there is a lot of infrared radiation and it can also be glued behind the battery. Everything else is marketing and more marketing.

A few years after the construction of a panel house, the residents have a question: how to properly insulate it? Over time, the ability of concrete slabs to retain warm air and prevent cold air from entering significantly decreases. Heat loss begins not only through windows, but also through walls. In winter, this situation begins not only to bring some discomfort to the existence of the family, but also to greatly annoy. There is only one way out of this situation - insulation of the walls of a panel house.

Insulate the facade of a panel house

If you insulate the room from the outside, you can avoid heat loss through the wall, which will also serve as an obstacle to the destruction of the structure. In addition, the use of various finishing materials will give the house a new, more modern look. Outside insulation has other advantages:

residents can continue to live in the house during construction work;
the temperature inside the building rises due to the use of thermal insulation material;
the dimensions of the room remain the same;
the structure of the room becomes stronger, the service life increases;
thermal insulation acts as a soundproofing material, reducing the likelihood of noise penetration into the room.

Insulation of a panel house from the outside is very effective, because it allows you to reduce heat loss and save on payment for the heat carrier. In some cases, the savings are as high as half the usual cost.

Required materials and tools

Keeping warm without using additional electrical appliances can be very effective. There are different types of insulation materials for a properly organized process. The most popular are:

mineral wool;
drywall;
styrofoam;
plaster.

The materials used in the work must certainly be of high quality. Otherwise, obtaining a positive effect will be a big question. Some of the materials presented on the modern construction market are designed specifically for use in outdoor conditions.

How to insulate walls

There are two technologies with the help of which the walls are insulated:

Wet facade.
Ventilated facade.

For insulation using the materials described above, the first method is used. To organize a ventilated facade, a system for creating a metal frame is used, on which the lining material is subsequently attached.

The way by which the finishing materials are strengthened in case the "wet" method of protecting the facades is chosen is quite simple. The wall being processed is necessarily processed with mastic, and then left to dry.

The surface, dried out after processing the joints, is ready for further work. She will have to be coated with a primer, which can be done using both a roller and a special sprayer.

Insulating material is to be fixed on a pre-prepared wall. This can be done with glue, fasteners (nails, dowels). A combination of mounting methods is possible.

Floor

High-quality insulation of a panel house begins with protecting the floor. This issue is especially relevant for citizens living on the ground floors. In most cases, they have to resort to such events.

To reduce heat loss through the floor, the builders provided for the construction of a log on the floor of an apartment located on the 1st floor of a multi-storey building. Insulating materials are laid in the cells, which are organized by the intersection of the elements of the wooden structure. It can be either polystyrene or mineral wool, as well as more exotic material options: expanded clay or sawdust. (You can read more about the types and grades of expanded clay).

Modern building and finishing materials are presented in such a variety that every room owner will find his own version of floor insulation. In addition, new materials are constantly appearing, but they have managed to prove themselves perfectly. This can be said about such types of insulation as polyurethane foam or penoizol. The use of even a thin 30 mm layer of these materials will significantly reduce heat loss.

You can learn how to insulate the floor in a room with your own hands quickly and efficiently by watching the video.

Seams

A large amount of useful heat energy is lost in a panel house through seams. This problem can also be easily solved by processing them. Cementing the distance between the plates with mortar allows you to fill the existing voids in the seams and contributes to the insulation of the entire structure as a whole.

The choice of mixtures that can be used to fill the seams in a panel house involves both their independent preparation and purchase ready-made. Either way, these formulations can be filled with foam beads to delay the flow of heat and air particles to trap heat trying to penetrate outside.

If the distance between the seams is large, then you can fill it with a soft insulating fiber. The well-known mineral wool acts as it. Its key characteristics are as follows:

high compression ratio;
the ability to use in work at negative air temperatures;
usability, which consists in ease of installation and the absence of a list of tools, without which work would be impossible.

Mineral wool fibers are volatile and can release formaldehyde components. These facts lead to a decrease in the frequency of using this material in the insulation of panel seams. More practical in such a situation is stone wool, which is safe for the health of residents and has fibers that do not break.

Styrofoam

Modern insulation, which is used very often. It is quite economical, easy to use and easy to install. Independent installation work is possible even for an inexperienced person, and performing work on high floors requires the involvement of industrial climbers.

After the slabs have been processed from the outside, insulation can be attached to them. If foam is used as this material, then you should remember the recommended material thickness. It should not be less than 50 mm. On the inside of each sheet, glue should be applied, which is specially designed for this kind of work.

The lining of the insulation should not be accompanied by the formation of cracks, because the work will not make sense: precious heat will go through them. This can be avoided only with the proper organization of installation work and use, in addition to glue, and other types of fasteners.

Mineral wool

Many manufacturers work with this type of insulation, such as mineral wool. It is quite effective, but there are certain nuances when working with this material. So, cotton wool should not get wet, otherwise its insulating properties will be lost. To avoid the accumulation of moisture in the insulation layers, before starting installation, the material is protected with a gasket of vapor barrier materials.

The membrane may not be used if such a method of insulation as a ventilated facade is chosen. In this case, moisture will be removed due to the air gap.

Drywall

The issues of warming the premises must be taken seriously. In certain climatic conditions, wall insulation with mineral wool is considered quite justified. In this case, you can not do without drywall sheets.

In this way, you can insulate not only facade surfaces, but also living quarters: balconies, loggias, walls inside technical rooms. At the same time, be careful with the amount of mineral wool used. Its excess will not only not make the apartment warmer, but will also contribute to excessive cooling.

Preparatory work

The transformation of an apartment into a room that meets all the requirements of thermal insulation is possible. For this, it is necessary to competently organize insulation measures. The preparatory stage also plays an important role. It requires:

process the joints between the plates;
carefully seal the gaps;
clean all cracks from construction debris;
to seal all parts of the building that will come into contact with the insulation;
insulation of large gaps with mineral or stone wool.

If the cracks were additionally insulated, a layer of mastic must be placed on top.

How to insulate a panel house. Step-by-step instruction

Insulation instructions for a panel house contain the following steps:

choice of material and its quantity depending on climatic conditions and purposes;
purchase of materials and construction tools;
drying the walls with a heat gun;
removal of possible finishes from walls to be insulated;
applying an antiseptic composition to surfaces that will soon be closed;
applying a primer; (how to apply a primer correctly, read the article Priming walls - surface preparation)
sealing of seams, if necessary - additional insulation;
installation of insulation (using glue, plasterboard sheets and a metal frame);
the use of a metal mesh for additional reinforcement;
finishing of insulation, if necessary.

The beginning of work should fall on the lower part of the wall, because this is where the starting bar is set. The glue is best applied with a spatula..

Experts with extensive experience in installation work advise:

insulate the mill of the panel house in the summer;
with external insulation, it will be useful to insulate in the inner parts of the wall;
the best option would be to use seamless technologies, as this will save additional heat;
some modern technologies are very convenient, for example, the use of foamed polyurethane for insulation, which can even be applied by spraying;
do not forget about using a vapor barrier;
the selected material should not be afraid of moisture.

Compliance with the rules for installing heat-insulating materials will not only make the room warmer and more comfortable, but also significantly extend the life of the walls, because an additional layer of coating protects them from destruction.

Panel buildings are less durable than brick buildings, therefore, humidity and temperature fluctuations affect them to a greater extent. To create protection, it is necessary to insulate the panel house, not only from the inside, but also from the outside. This will prevent the loss of heat that occurs through the walls, as well as protect the facade of the building from destruction.

Insulation materials

To insulate the facade of the house, craftsmen use various materials, but the following have been a priority for many years:

styrofoam;
mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam.

The main unifying characteristic of these materials is their low thermal conductivity. Most often, panel walls are insulated with foam. Therefore, it is worth considering the technology of thermal insulation using the example of its use.

Facade surface preparation

Before proceeding directly to the insulation, it is necessary to prepare the walls. Surface irregularities should not exceed 1 cm. Attention should be paid to the condition of the facade finish and seams. If they are painted, but in some places the paint has peeled off, they must be cleaned. And in the case of PF paint, knock it down.

To check the quality of the finish, run your palm over the surface. If it remains clean, it is possible to insulate the outer walls, excluding the primer of the panel house. Otherwise, you cannot do without it.

In old buildings, walls are often shedding outside - such places must be cleaned and only then can a primer be applied. If sand continues to pour, it is recommended to putty this area.

Installation of insulation

Technology for applying glue to foam. Click on the photo to enlarge.

There are several methods for installing foam, but the most effective is the one that involves gluing and nailing it. Such insulation of a panel house is most effective.

The gluing process begins at the bottom of the building, where the starter bar is mounted. To work, you must have 2 spatulas: large (20 cm in size) and smaller (8-10 cm in size). A smaller tool is used to apply the adhesive mixture to another spatula. On an uneven wall, the glue mixture is applied with "bloopers", and on an even wall - with a comb. Do not forget about carefully filling the seams. There is no need to apply the mixture to the foam sheet itself.

Before insulating a panel house, all the cavities should be filled with an adhesive mixture from the outside, otherwise there will be voids under the foam sheet that will facilitate the release of heat from the apartment. Convex places are coated with a thin layer. Next, a sheet is applied to the surface and pressed.

To achieve a good result, you can continue the insulation only 3 days after the foam, glued to the walls in the panel house, is securely fixed. Usually, masters first of all paste over the building with insulation from the outside, and after 3 days they begin to nail it.

Nailing the styrofoam to the wall is carried out using fungi, which consist of a plastic sleeve, a circle and a nail driven into the sleeve. The nail can be metal or plastic, but since metal is a cold bridge, you should give preference to plastic products.

Using a puncher, holes are drilled in the foam, for example, around the perimeter of the sheet and in the center. This will allow you to reliably insulate the apartments of the building. The drill diameter should be 10 mm. The depth of the hole should not coincide with the length of the fungus, but, on the contrary, exceed it by 2 cm. Otherwise, the fasteners will not completely enter the hole, but will stick out from the outside, as construction debris will remain in it.

It is possible to ensure reliable insulation of an apartment only if in a panel house the foam is tightly attached to the wall, and there are no large gaps between the plates. Seams of 5 mm or more are filled with polyurethane foam. But if their width exceeds 2 cm, then a heater is placed in them, and after that they are filled with foam. When it dries, the excess is cut off. At this stage, you can correct the protruding seams by rubbing them.

Continuing the foam insulation, it is necessary to proceed to filling the caps of fungi and seams in panel houses with an adhesive mixture. After the putty has dried, all minor defects are removed with a plastic trowel with emery.

Pasting walls with mesh

The next step is to glue the mesh onto the wall surface. For this, a special mesh is used, which can be installed outside the building, since other material will lose its properties under the influence of external factors.

First, the mesh is glued to the corners, and then to the main surface. Products with ready-made corners are on sale - their installation is easy. Otherwise, strips about 30 cm wide should be made from the mesh, then bend them in half to form an angle. Further, using a spatula, an adhesive mixture of 6-7 cm is applied to the wall surface on both sides of the corner. After that, the mesh itself is applied and the mixture is smoothed away from the corner.

Gluing the mesh to the main surface of the building can be performed in small areas, which will greatly facilitate the insulation of walls from the outside, in contrast to pasting large areas of the surface of a panel house. The product is cut into pieces 1x1 m, but processing with the mixture in width will reach 90 cm, and the remaining 10 cm must be left clean.

The glue mixture is first applied to the wall section so that 10 cm around the edges remain intact. Next, a mesh is applied, a mixture is applied to it in the center in small portions. It is gently smoothed by sliding the spatula from the center to the sides. Thus, the mesh is completely covered with the mixture. As for the seams, they should be carefully greased and leveled. But in order for the finishing of the seams to be invisible, it is important to lay the clean edges of the mesh with an overlap of about 8-10 cm and only then coat with a mixture.

After the mixture has completely dried, the surface of the building must be processed, namely: wipe it with a plastic trowel with emery. It should be noted that a product with an abrasive mesh is not suitable for grouting, since it is not intended for facade work. Before proceeding to the final step, it is important to make sure that the mixture is completely dry. The surface dries out very quickly in the sun, therefore it is recommended to insulate the building before the onset of cold weather.

A leveling layer of the mixture is applied to the treated surface, and then proceed to the finishing. This completes the process of insulating the panel building. Now the apartments will be reliably protected from the cold. Knowing how to insulate a panel house, you can do the work yourself, provided you have all the necessary tools and materials.

The walls of a panel house over time need additional insulation. Unlike brick buildings, with a temperature difference, they can freeze through, accumulate moisture, which leads to the destruction of the external facade of the house, the occurrence of cracks, mold and other unpleasant changes. Residents may notice that the apartments are cold despite the presence of heating. To eliminate the consequences of such changes, and to keep the level of heat inside the premises as much as possible, it is recommended to insulate the panel house from the outside.

Advantages of outdoor insulation

External insulation of the house will not only avoid heat leaks through the walls, but also protect the facade from further destruction. With the use of various decorative design options in the external decoration, the house will look new. In addition, wall insulation outside has the following advantages:

there is no need to evict tenants from the house during the repair work,
increasing the temperature inside the building by protecting the walls from freezing and other adverse effects of weather conditions,
no change in the size of the interior - the entire living area is preserved,
insulation technology strengthens the supporting structure of a panel house, the building becomes more durable and its service life increases,
a layer of insulation on the outside acts as an additional good sound insulation of the building.

External wall insulation is most effective for panel houses - it is possible to save up to 50% of heat.

Insulation types

The choice of which material is better to insulate the walls from the outside is influenced by:

the location of the panel house in a certain climatic region,
rainfall, wind strength and speed,
allocated budget for insulation of a panel house,
other individual factors.

useful in work

The estimate and project for the work is usually drawn up by the management company or HOA. And a team of industrial climbers directly carries out the process of insulation outside.

For panel houses, two types of insulation are mainly used:

Mineral wool

For outdoor work, it is convenient to work with mineral wool slabs, which are produced by various manufacturers. It has good performance in terms of basic characteristics, including thermal conductivity. However, care must be taken to ensure that the mineral wool does not get wet, otherwise it will lose its thermal insulation properties. To do this, a vapor-permeable membrane is laid under the layer of insulation, which will protect it from vapors.

When finishing with a ventilated facade, condensation from the walls of the house will be removed due to the air gap and the membrane can not be used.

Styrofoam

Differs in lightness, simplicity when laying slabs on the wall. Also has good parameters for heat and sound insulation. For outdoor work, it is important to use a material that does not support spontaneous combustion. Manufacturers mark it with the G1 marking, but the results of many tests confirm that the foam is flammable, and such a name does not meet the requirements of GOST 30244-94. When buying insulation, be sure to ask the seller for product certificates.

It is important to know

Insulation of a panel house from the outside is limited by the thickness of the insulating material. The maximum value of the thickness of the foam plastic for the walls is calculated according to special formulas, taking into account the average temperatures in a certain climatic region and the purpose of the building (residential, public, industrial).

Stages of the facade insulation process

Depending on the chosen method of insulation, installation will vary. There are two main technologies:

Wet Facade
Ventilated facade

Wet insulation process is described below.

Wall surface preparation

It is necessary to carefully prepare the surface of the facade of the house in order to insulate it efficiently. Each wall is leveled, cleaned of various plaque, voids and cracks are sealed, especially paying attention to the joints of the panels. If necessary, they put a sealant in them, coat the cracks with special mastics.
Wall surface irregularities are allowed within 1 - 2 cm, but not more.
After cleaning and processing the joints, the walls are left to dry. Then they are coated with a universal primer using a roller or spray.

Installation of insulation

Fastening of heat-insulating material to walls is possible in three ways:

on glue,
for fasteners (dowels, plastic nails),
combination of glue with fasteners.

The video shows in detail the method of fixing the foam with a dowel for thermal insulation.

For example, the foam is fixed in a combined way from the first floor to the top. At the bottom, a starting bar is installed, from which insulation is glued. In this case, the glue is applied to the walls carefully with a spatula, filling the existing irregularities. Then the foam sheets are pressed tightly to the treated surface. The evenness of the rows of insulation is checked by the level. Before the glue base sets, it is possible to correct minor errors. Now you need to wait 2 - 3 days so that the glue is completely dry and the insulation is well fixed on the walls. Further, the foam is additionally fixed with dowels - 4 - 5 pieces per sheet. Holes for fasteners are made with a puncher.

The second and subsequent rows of foam sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints of adjacent layers do not coincide. All the seams between the insulation and the cracks from the fasteners are filled with special foam designed specifically for the installation of foam, in order to minimize the likelihood of heat leakage. Such foam is produced in cylinders and it is better to apply it with a special gun. Cut off the excess, the remains of the foam after drying.

Anchoring the mesh

Polyfoam is a rather fragile material, therefore, to give strength and rigidity to the insulation elements, it is reinforced. For this, a special stable mesh is installed on the outside of the foam sheets. It is convenient to cut it into separate pieces of the same size and overlap in small pieces. A layer of a special adhesive solution for facade work is evenly applied to the insulated surfaces, and the mesh is pressed into it. Then another adhesive layer is applied for leveling. After installing the mesh on the whole house, wait for the glue to dry in order to sand the surfaces with emery paper from the solution smudges and irregularities during the fastening process.
The implementation of the reinforcement provides mechanical stability for the final decorative coating of the panel house.

Finishing

After insulation, external facades are usually decorated with decorative plaster. For the best adhesion of materials, the general layer of thermal insulation is primed again.
In addition, the technology of hinged ventilated facades is often used for residential apartment buildings. The thermal insulation layer has already been completed - it remains to mount the outer cladding with a ventilation gap.

Today there is a wide selection of materials for exterior decoration in curtain wall system:

metal products (decking, siding, facade cassettes),
aluminum composite panels,
slabs made of porcelain stoneware, natural or artificial stone.

Each of them can be selected according to the external structure, colors and other characteristics.
Ventilated facade technology not only protects the walls of the building, but also allows you to implement a variety of design ideas and solutions.
To fix the ventilated facade, you will need an additional frame device.

The process of insulating panel houses can be carried out during their reconstruction or major repairs. If your choice fell on the "wet" facade technology, it is advisable to plan work in the summer or at temperatures above 5 ° C. When using ventilated facades, installation can be performed all year round.

Most of the constructed panel and brick houses did not provide for facade insulation. Concrete and bricks have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The consequence is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics of the phenomenon

A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way to fight is to insulate the wall from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight the cold wall, insulating it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.

Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With the correct design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.

If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulated from the inside, it moves inward, and condensation may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the vital activity of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, laundry, etc.).

Features of cold wall insulation from the inside

There are several ways that can prevent condensation from forming on a wall insulated from the inside:

Creation of a layer of heat-insulating material with a vapor permeability less than that of the facade material.
Thermal insulation using materials with minimal water absorption.
Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).

Liquid insulation

Polyurethane foam

PPU insulation meets all the requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and absence of seams. Therefore, even if the dew point is inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-impermeable materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.

Environmental friendliness of PU foam after hardening meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials (gypsum board, OSB or plywood). Basically, it's like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.

The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.

Liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with a high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation - this is an auxiliary, but necessary factor. Although it gives a rather high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.

The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared to thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam or 6.5 cm mineral wool.

Application method is the same as for acrylic paint (same base). After polymerization, a dense and durable film forms on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.

Roll insulation

Penofol

Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including one-sided, two-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other thermal insulation materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular when insulating a bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in a regular living room.

For insulation of a cold wall, penofol is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.

In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).

But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation can form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of the joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps between adjacent sheets inside.

The method of combating the formation of condensation on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer cladding.

Polyphom

Another version of foamed polyethylene, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - a layer of paper is located on both sides. Polyfom and is intended for pasting wallpaper on it.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as that of penofol, but they are quite enough to make a cold wall feel warmer to the touch.

In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the movement of the dew point to the inner surface.

The disadvantage of this method is that only dry walls are insulated.

Warming with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to the prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensation in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue the sheets onto special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with a sealant (you can also use foam with a step or a thorn-groove connection).

Finishing can be done in two ways:

mesh reinforcement and plastering;
paneling on a load-bearing frame fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls (plasterboard false wall).

Mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to provide maximum protection from humid air from the side of the room and weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to make a ventilated facade, but in reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding inside the room.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from the bottom and top, make ventilation holes.