Sloping roof: possibilities and device of an unusual design. How to make a sloping roof with your own hands, drawings, video Do-it-yourself broken roof rafter system

When building a house, a significant part of the attention is paid not only to its appearance, but also to functionality. It is unlikely that someone will want to lose internal space, because funds are also spent on its construction. When installing a roof with two slopes, it is definitely possible to equip an attic floor, but even more additional space will appear if you follow the instructions for making a broken gable roof with your own hands, although such a structure will be more difficult to build.

Roof design

So that the space formed under the roof can be comfortably used for living quarters, the minimum recommended width of the house is six meters.

A sloping roof must be foreseen at the design stage of the house, because it will require additional strengthening of the walls. So, brick, gas silicate blocks or foam concrete will require pouring a reinforcing belt, into which threaded rods are pre-laid. Their step is one and a half to two meters.

Diagram of a sloping gable roof

Before starting work, you need to decide on two questions:

1. What is the ratio of the parts of the rays? This parameter will affect the height of the interior space.
2. Will roof windows be installed and if so, what is the location? With a large number of rooms, they will help organize the right natural light.

After that, you can proceed to the calculations:

1. The amount of material for the roof.
2. The thickness and volume of the insulation.
3. Waterproofing (determined by the dimensions of the roof).
4. The required amount of wood for the rafters.
5. Fasteners.

To facilitate the task, you can use the found typical roof project. If you have the skills of a designer, then you can make a detailed drawing yourself. In the calculation of the rafter system, namely the step and section of the beams, specially developed programs will help. They are based on what kind of roofing material you are going to use, what loads will fall on the roof, what area of \u200b\u200bconstruction, and others.

Materials for work

1. Rafters are the main structural element. It is recommended to use high quality timber with a section of 5x10 cm as legs and braces.You also need edged boards with a minimum thickness of 3 cm.
2. Mauerlat - support for rafters. It will be good to use a bar with a section of 25x25 cm.

Coniferous wood is well suited for organizing a rafter system. But it should be dried to a moisture content of no more than 22 percent. A sloping roof differs from a simple gable roof in its large weight. Due to this, the material will need a more massive one.

Instructions for the construction of the rafter system

The tools are used standard, as for any carpentry work. A ladder and safety equipment will also come in handy.

Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to treat all the wood with special antiseptics, and also impregnate it with a fire-fighting solution. These works are carried out in accordance with the instructions on the packages. And in order to ensure a deeper penetration of solutions into the material, it is better to process all elements of the rafter system twice. Next, you need to let the wood dry before starting further assembly. You should also process battens and counter battens. Another preparatory work is drilling holes in the Mauerlat bars. Their pitch should match the pitch of the studs installed on the walls.

Calculation of the rafter system of a sloping gable roof

In principle, the rafter system can be considered as modularly connected sections, which are advisable to be assembled on the ground, and only then raised to the roof and carried out further installation according to the drawing. This will make the job easier. The upper and lower rafter legs are connected to each other at a selected angle. In order not to violate the overall geometry of the roof, it is necessary to monitor their precise sawing, as well as observe the dimensions of all parts. This will affect the safe installation of the roofing cake. To simplify your work, you can prepare templates. They are carried out using metal or plywood, in accordance with the project.

Stages of work

1. Roofing material must be laid on the load-bearing walls of the building in one or two layers. It will perform waterproofing protection.
2. Then proceed to the installation of the Mauerlat. The fastening of the beams to the studs is carried out using nuts.

The installation of the Mauerlat beams must be made, observing strict parallelism between them.

If the house is made of wood, the upper beam or log will serve as a mauerlat, according to the building material.

When all the work with the installation of the truss system is completed, you can proceed to the next stage of forming the roofing pie - laying heat, steam and waterproofing.

Layered roofing pie

1. The vapor barrier film is attached from the inside of the room. Metal staples work well for this. It is important to maintain an even tension on the material.
2. Mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be used as insulation. Their installation is carried out between the rafter legs.
3. Laying waterproofing is the final stage, it is overlapped in several layers. This will help keep the risks of leakage to a minimum.

The waterproofing material can sag, but not more than two centimeters.

Further work can be described as roofing:

• When the waterproofing film is laid, proceed to the installation of the crate. The determination of the pitch of the slats depends on the type of roofing used in the construction. For the convenience of work, it is made at 30-35 cm, provided that rigid materials are used. But for a soft roofing, a continuous crate made of plywood sheets or OSB-plates is better suited.
• The slats must be placed in a straight line, so that after, when laying the roofing material, there are no problems.
• There are no peculiarities of laying roofing for a broken gable roof, so the work is carried out in accordance with the selected material.

1. Building experience should be decisive when creating a broken gable roof with your own hands. Its design can be quite complex for a beginner.
2. It is better not to use roofing material of heavy weight for an already heavy structure. Because of this requirement, shingles will have to be abandoned in favor of existing alternatives such as bituminous or metal shingles.
3. Ventilation of the roofing cake is a prerequisite for proper installation. Air vents are installed in the roof and in the ridge.
4. The resulting under-roof space is perfect for organizing an attic. And if you plan to have living quarters there, then you should especially carefully approach the issue of its insulation. The thickness of the material should be selected in accordance with the requirements of the joint venture. This parameter is selected depending on the construction area.
5. Also, do not save on vapor barrier material. Quality products will help create a comfortable living environment.

DIY broken gable roof: rafter system, step-by-step installation, etc.

Design and step-by-step production of a broken two-stage roof, advice on the choice of building materials.

Sloping roof - device, options, installation instructions

Owners of private houses think over every detail of their home: the type of foundation, facade decoration and the shape of the roof. The mansard sloping roof is one of the most popular structures in this part of the building.

Device

The rafter system of a gable sloping roof differs from others in a large number of kinks on the slopes. It is believed that this is one of the most beautiful forms, but, at the same time, and, like the hip, is quite expensive. She settles down for houses in which a residential or non-residential attic is planned.

Structural elements

Features of the rafter system:

1. Unlike the classic gable roof, this model has special stiffeners. These struts provide strength to the roof and create smooth walls inside the attic;

Rafter system with headstock

• A grandmother must be installed between the hanging rafters and the tightening. It guarantees tightness and provides additional support;

Scheme without grandma

• In turn, struts are mounted between the racks (they are also called fights) and the layered rafters (which give the shape of the roof). They are also stiffeners, but for the internal rafter system - racks;
• A sloping semi-hip roof can also be hipped. The number of slopes depends on the height of the racks - the higher they are, the more kinks. The four-pitched roof is more convenient to use;

The difference between a gable and a four-pitched sloping roof

• The tilt angle cannot be less than 15 degrees. A pitched, two or more sloping roof must necessarily have a good slope for proper drainage of precipitation. Otherwise, the house or an extension with this type of roof will be constantly heated.

Experts recommend choosing conifers as materials for the truss system of a private house. Such beams withstand sudden temperature changes, resist moisture and snow, and also have excellent antiseptic properties.

Roof options

Types of sloping roofs for private buildings:

1. Square. Here, a right triangle is formed between the layered rafters and the posts. The inner section of the attic resembles a square, from which the scheme got its name. Ideal for houses with a small area and the ability to equip a high attic. This option is ideal for a gazebo or a small frame house;

Square sloping roof structure

• Rectangular. This type of construction implies an increase in the eaves overhang due to wider slopes and floor beams. This option is suitable if the house has a large square. To prevent deformation of the layered rafters, the struts are reinforced with small racks. This is how both dwelling houses and summer cottages are designed, that is, seasonal;

Example of a rectangular system

• Combined. This scheme combines the design features of the previous ones. Beams of props and layered rafters can be installed as additional supports. The grandmother is often strengthened. The system is used for large residential attics. The main convenience of this design is its strength, so that turrets or domes can be installed on the roof surface. In this way, a cottage or a country house with a veranda is often decorated;
• Three-front and more. The pediment nodes in this structure are additionally reinforced with special elements, since otherwise they may deform. The main difference between this design and the classic broken line is the presence of special reinforced ridge girders. Also, there are diagonal rafters, which are much larger than the one-on-one. This type of structure is used for a brick building, timber structure or blocks. Thanks to this installation scheme, you can make an interesting attic interior with a sloping roof.

Sloped roof attic interior

In addition, the sloping roof can be used for any utility rooms (garage, bathhouse) and houses with built-in rooms (verandas, greenhouses, etc.).

Before starting work, you need to make drawings of a broken roof. Various options with a balcony, windows and other elements are freely available on the Internet, in dwg format, for example. It should be borne in mind that this is a modular design, its nodes require an appropriate connection. Brackets are used to attach the beams to each other. To calculate the fasteners, you will also need a drawing and a technological map.

Drawing of a sloping roof with a window Example of a professional drawing

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a broken roof with your own hands:

1. First, the Mauerlat and floor beams are mounted. They will serve as the ceiling for the lower floor. Before installation, they must be treated with an antiseptic to protect against moisture and microorganisms;
2. A vapor barrier and waterproofing is installed under the wooden slope. These measures are needed to protect the ceiling from condensation from the house and possible moisture under the racks;
3. Depending on which layout is chosen, you need to think about the size of the racks in advance. As a standard, they are 10 cm higher than the required ceiling height, since after the installation of the rafter system, the interior finishing will be carried out;
4. It should be noted that the slope of the entire roof will depend on the size of the uprights. Therefore, select their height so that the roof is at an angle of 15 degrees or more. Otherwise, it will be difficult to drain the liquid from it;

Step by step instructions with photo

• Next, the racks are installed. Their construction involves the installation of vertical beams with temporary struts, which are removed after the installation of the top floor and headstock. Otherwise, the structure is deformed and the roof scheme will be broken;
• Floor boards are installed above the posts. Special corner braces are used to connect the top floor and vertical beams. To install the headstock, the lower horizontal boards are additionally reinforced with crossbars. They guarantee the rigidity of the temporary installation;
• After that, the required distance between the lower rafters is calculated. This can be done based on the material with which the roof will be covered, or using standard values. Experts recommend using a step of 1 meter, if the area is large - 1.2. They must be built into vertical posts;
• The rafters should hang somewhat on the walls. This will help provide additional protection for a log house or foam blocks from rain and snow. At the end of the installation, the cornice is hemmed. To do this, you can use plastic siding for a log house, corrugated board or wooden boards;
• When the fasteners are complete, the temporary ledgers are replaced with permanent brackets.

The cost of installing a rafter system by professionals varies from 1000 cu. e. up to ten. It all depends on the chosen design and the size of the house.

Warming and finishing

After the completion of the installation work, the attic with a sloping roof is insulated and finished. Thermal insulation technology is similar to other types of roofing structures. A vapor barrier film is first laid on the beams, and waterproofing is laid on top of it. These surfaces are fitted with an overlap and are installed using thin small nails.

Roof waterproofing

For insulation, pressed mineral wool, polystyrene, penoizol and other materials can be used. The installation of the heat insulator is carried out in such a way that when it is installed, the gaps between the beams remain visible - this will help with further finishing.

The sloping roof is trimmed depending on what material has been chosen for the cover. Now ondulin is very popular - it perfectly tolerates temperature changes and exposure to ultraviolet rays. The cheapest and most affordable option is slate. But the easiest way is to work with metal tile panels on a sloping roof - this design requires constant cutting of the coating, but this is not necessary with tiles.

DIY broken roof: photo, video

DIY broken roof: device, options, installation. Insulation and decoration. Sloping mansard roof. Photos, videos, drawings.

DIY broken roof

• 1 How to choose the angle of inclination
• 2 Drafting
• 3 Material
• 4 Stages of construction
• 5 Sheathing and roofing cake

Among the variety of roof structures, a sloping gable roof occupies a special place. Its peculiarity is in dividing the slope into several planes, which makes it possible to use the space under the roof for the attic device. Having a room under the roof will reduce the overall heat loss of the house. A broken roof with your own hands can be built correctly only if there are competent calculations and following all the standards during construction.

How to choose a tilt angle

The angle of inclination of the mansard roof

When choosing the angle at which the roof slopes are installed, it is necessary to consider:

• type of roofing;
• rainfall and wind strength;
• the purpose of the room - for a living room, the height of the ridge should not be placed below 2.5 meters.

The optimal value for the upper slopes is 30-45 degrees, for the lower ones - 60 degrees.

Drafting a project

Sloping roof project

Any construction begins with a drawing, and such a complex structure as a sloping roof will require drawing up a detailed diagram with all dimensions and calculations. You can get started by viewing photos and diagrams that will help you understand how to build a sloping roof structure. Knowing the size of the building, the type of roofing and insulation material, you can use special calculators to calculate the dimensions of the components for the rafter system.

The consumption of material for roofing, as well as waterproofing is calculated by the size of the roof area, which is calculated by adding the value of all the slopes. The insulation layer for the attic roof must be at least 20 cm.

Glued laminated timber

Before making a sloping roof, select high-quality material for its construction. For this, dry glued beams are purchased, the moisture content of which is 18–22%. Before starting installation, it undergoes mandatory treatment with an antiseptic and an anti-combustion agent. Treatment with compositions is carried out in an open space, the funds are applied in two layers.

• bar for Mauerlat 200 × 200 mm, for struts 50 × 100 mm;
• board 50 × 150 mm;
• unedged board;
• metal brackets, corners, bolts, nails, screws;
• battens for lathing 25 × 50 mm;
• vapor barrier membrane, insulation, waterproofing;
• roofing material.

Construction stages

Mauerlat is fixed

Mauerlat. The installation of the truss structure is assumed at the stage of wall construction. In the top row, special studs are laid for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat, which is the basis of the roof. This timber is laid along the entire perimeter of the walls, prepared pins are inserted into the drilled holes and tightened with nuts. The stud pitch is two meters, the best option if they are located between the rafters. Roofing material is laid under the Mauerlat, which provides protection from moisture. To securely hold the structure, wire strapping is used.

Beams. A thick timber with a section of 200 × 200 mm is laid directly on the Mauerlat or in special pockets left in the masonry of the walls. The edges of the beams located on the masonry are coated with mastic. The beam will serve as a support for the uprights. They are attached to the Mauerlat with metal corners. Strict adherence to the horizontal level is required in order to obtain a high-quality base for the roof. You can change the position of the beam by placing boards.

Installation of rafters

Installation of rafters. The first to be exposed are vertical stacks on the pediments. Their level is controlled using plumb lines. The uprights are temporarily fixed with spacers. A cord is pulled between the exposed rafters and all the remaining racks are installed with a step equal to the arrangement of the beams. Girders from the board are laid on the racks, they are fastened with corners and self-tapping screws. On top of the girders, longitudinal ties are attached, connecting the parallel posts and completing the upper strapping. Before the final installation of the remaining rafters, the puffs are propped up with struts.

The lower rafters are installed with support on the purlin and the Mauerlat. To facilitate the work of preparing the bars, a template is pre-executed. A thin board is applied to the purlin and sawing off at the desired angle. All lower rafters are trimmed and installed. The lower part lying on the Mauerlat is cut out in place. For fastening, plates or corners are used, twisting them with self-tapping screws or hammering them in with nails.

Before installing the upper hanging rafters, it is necessary to outline the center of the roof. For this, a temporary stand is used, fixed in the center of the Mauerlat and the gable tightening. The top edge of the board marks the center of the roof. A base for a template is applied to this board, along which the cuts of the upper rafters will be performed, the second edge of the workpiece rests on the girder.

All top rafters are the same size, so they are cut using the same template. The upper ends of the rafters are connected with board scraps, plates or bots. The lower part is inserted with a saw into the purlin and fastened with corners. Each rafter leg is supported by a 25x150mm hanging post, which is attached to the rafter joint and to the brace.

The lower rafters are reinforced with permanent struts. For this, a board of 50 × 150 mm is used, the lower end is cut off at an angle and installed on a beam, the upper end is attached to the rafter with a bolt or hairpin. Having installed all the struts, remove the temporary supports.

Sheathing and roofing pie

After finishing the installation of the truss structure, it is necessary to correctly lay all the layers of the roofing cake. Initially, the rafters are sheathed with a vapor barrier membrane, starting from the bottom of the roof. The joints of the material are glued with tape. Then the insulation is laid. Between the layer of insulation of the roof, it is necessary to install air vents to ventilate the space. Poor ventilation will lead to condensation and dampness. The roof covering should be selected taking into account its thermal insulation qualities, so the use of metal is not desirable. For insulation, choose safe, non-flammable materials that are not exposed to moisture. These materials include expanded polystyrene and foam glass. After insulation, waterproofing is installed.

The lathing is made directly under the selected type of roofing.

The construction of a sloping roof will not only give the architecture of the house a special look, but will give additional living space. Watching a video explaining the nuances of construction will help you do the job correctly.

Small house with an attic

House with attic

Sloping roof of a wooden house

Sauna with a mansard sloping roof

Country house with an attic

Garage roof

DIY broken roof - making a photo

Learn how to make a sloping roof with your own hands. The article describes the technology of installation of a mansard sloping roof, taking into account the design features.

Sloped roofs are among the most popular and most effective roof structures. The construction and arrangement of such a roof requires the performer to have certain skills in performing the necessary calculations and appropriate measures.

However, having understood the main provisions of the manual, it will be possible to cope with the arrangement of such a roofing structure on its own without involving third-party specialists, which will significantly save money.

The sloping roof is perfect for those situations where the arrangement of a residential attic is planned. In this case, the roof space will have sufficiently high ceilings.

It is somewhat more difficult to build a sloping roof than an ordinary one- or two-slope structure, but, as you already know, there are no impossible tasks.

Broken roofs look best on square structures. If your home is narrow and long, there will be little or no benefit from the attic and therefore the roof structure in question.

Any roof structures, and a broken line is no exception, are calculated in two stages. When performing the first calculation, the required amount of finishing material is set, and the second calculation is designed to establish the bearing capacity of the rafters.

Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof

The first calculation is performed using the geometric values \u200b\u200bof the roofing system. The calculation of the bearing capacity of the rafter system is somewhat more complicated. When performing it, the following indicators must be taken into account:

Having received all the above data, you can calculate the rafter system using the appropriate formulas or special programs, which is easier, faster and more convenient.

Based on the results of the calculations, you will determine whether the sections of the structural elements are suitable specifically for your roof structure. If necessary, the characteristics of the lathing and rafter legs can be changed. You can also replace the roofing material.

For maximum convenience, create a three-dimensional model of the future broken roof structure with your chosen parameters. Special programs will help you with this.

What to build a roof from?

After completing all calculations and preparing the necessary design documentation, you will know what the cross-section of the elements of the roof truss system should be, what kind of lathing is best to equip and what roofing material is suitable specifically for your case.

Go shopping for the necessary tools.

First of all, buy a beam for arranging the Mauerlat, as well as beams or boards for mounting the sheathing and an edged board for the rafter system. Also, rafters can be made from a bar.

Coniferous wood is ideal. It is important that the moisture content of the material does not exceed 20-22%. The material should not have large knots. Traces of damage by bugs and bluish spots should also be absent.

Consider the fact that the strength, reliability and durability of a broken roof structure directly depends on the quality of wood.

Before using the purchased material for its intended purpose, be sure to treat it with an antiseptic preparation. Special means will protect the material from decay. Also, periodic treatment with antiseptics will need to be carried out during the entire period of use of the roofing structure.

In addition to antiseptics, all wood must be treated with fire retardants - these are special fire-fighting agents.

Process the material outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to wear protective gloves and a respirator. These products are applied in a double layer. For application, it is most convenient to use a spray, ordinary brushes are also suitable.

After applying the impregnations, allow them to dry completely, and only then proceed to perform other planned activities.

Also, to equip a broken roofing structure, you will need fasteners - screws, plates, bolts, etc.

In addition, purchase suitable materials for waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier of the structure, as well as finishing roofing material.

Roof erection procedure

The arrangement of the structure under consideration is carried out in several simple steps.

First step

Attach the Mauerlat to the upper strapping bar.

Second step

Install the rafter legs as required in your design drawings. Pre-cut the templates for connecting the rafters to the support bar (Mauerlat).

Third step

Set up vertical posts and secure them to the floor joists. They will take on the function of the frame of the walls of the future roofing room.

At the top, tie the racks using purlins. These elements simultaneously take over the functions of the braces for the upper rafters and the ceiling beams for the attic.

Perform further work according to the requirements of your project. In this case, be sure to keep in mind that the rafters, due to which a steep roofing bevel is formed and the tightening of the upper rafter legs with a Mauerlat, must be layered. The upper rafters in the construction of such a roof will be of the hanging type.

For additional rigidity of the hanging rafter legs, provide fixation on the headstock. They must be connected with ties that function as beams of the attic ceiling.

If necessary, install spacers and struts. All of the listed structural members should be initially marked on your roof drawings.

On the extreme rafters located at the ends of the house, install additional frames to accommodate gables, doorways and double-glazed windows.

Insulation and finishing works

At the end, it remains to lay the necessary insulation materials. First, fix the vapor barrier film along the roof structure frame by laying it along the rafter legs and fixing it with a stapler. Fasten the film with an overlap, without excessive sagging.

Mount the lathing from the timber. Select the step of the lathing individually in accordance with the characteristics of the selected finish. In some situations, a metal profile is used for arranging the lathing, but the option using a wooden bar is the most common.

Place thermal insulation material (preferably mineral wool) between the rafters. Place the insulation in a spacer. From the side of the attic room, additionally fix the insulation with a crate. In the future, the finishing inner coating will be fixed to it.

Lay the waterproofing material. The principles of installation and fastening are the same as for the vapor barrier membrane. Proceed with laying the finishing material over the equipped moisture barrier. The slopes of the structure in question are based on a broken profile, so the topcoat should be started from the bottom.

At the joints of the roof slopes, lay the upper row of the finishing material so that it overlaps the lower tier and creates a kind of visor above it.

Roofing on a mansard roof

Finally, it is necessary to install various additional elements of the roof structure such as gutters, fences, etc.

A ready-made broken roof structure, created by our own forces, is in no way inferior to similar buildings equipped with the involvement of professionals.

Happy work!

Video - DIY broken roof

A sloping roof is, in fact, a type of pitched roof. It is chosen when they want to get additional free space on the attic floor, or someone likes such structures more than the usual gable, three-slope, four-slope. Arrangement of a sloping roof is not an easy process, but it pays off with interest in a beautiful appearance, increased functionality and a cozy room suitable for living. Let's consider in detail the structure of a sloping roof and how to make it yourself.

What is a sloping roof

The sloping roof got its name due to its shape. It has a large number of kinked lines and a pentagonal (rather than triangular, as in classic pitched) projection of the building's pediment. Many developers deliberately choose it for the sake of its shape, since a house with a sloping roof looks solid, solid, and with the help of additional elements, and even contrasting with the tone of the main roof and facade finish, you can get a real masterpiece.

A cottage with a sloping roof looks unusual and original

But for the most part it is ideal when the desired size of the attic does not fit into a regular pitched roof, which does not provide sufficient attic height for a comfortable stay there. The broken structure, due to the fracture of the slope, significantly reduces the "dead zones" - an unsuitable space for living.

By the way, not always a roof with a break is chosen for arranging a living room. It can also be "cold" rooms - a wine cellar for winemakers, a gym for sports fans.

Any room in the house is suitable for a wine storage - basement, attic, pantry - the main thing is to provide the necessary climatic conditions for storing wine

In the attic, you can arrange a dressing room or just a closet for household needs, equipped with various cabinets and shelves.

A small dressing room in the attic is a vivid example of how you can practically use all the square meters of your own home

There are many options for sloping roofs:

1. Single-slope - the simplest design that you can easily make yourself.

   Single slope mansard roof with a slight slope break - stylish and simple design

2. Gable - make it possible to equip a large attic space.

   Streamlined shape makes the gable sloping roof resistant to wind gusts and snow drifts

3. Three-slope - have long been known in Russia and popular today.

   The aesthetics of the gable sloping roof is unobtrusive on the one hand, and on the other, it has undoubted attractiveness.

4. Four-slope - difficult to build, but beautiful in appearance and light, thanks to the design features. This allows you to equip a large attic space without unnecessarily loading the foundation. Therefore, hipped roof slopes are in great demand in private housing construction.

   Four-slope broken structures are in demand in private construction

5. Hip, hip broken, gable, combined, etc.

   The hip sloping roof has a complex structure and increased cost, but ensures the rational use of free space on the attic floor

That is, a break in the roof, allowing you to increase the attic space, is used almost everywhere. According to the builders, if something can be drawn, then it can be built. That is how it is, but it is important to calculate the estimate in advance so that later it does not work out "I blinded him from what was."

The specifics of the structure of a sloping roof

The presence of a special rafter system made of rather impressive elements distinguishes the construction of a sloping roof from the construction of a typical pitched one. However, you should not be afraid of this. Curved roofs are not as difficult to install as they might initially seem. It is quite possible to make them yourself.

The main advantage of sloping roofs is that, despite the impressive size of the supports, most rafter systems are mounted in a modular manner. Many components are collected on the ground and ready-made they are raised up. Therefore, heavy construction equipment is not needed. Racks and rafters at fracture sites are cut at a certain slope. The entire rafter system is secured with special connections.

Sloping roof rafters are mounted according to the scheme

The best width of the structure for arranging a sloping roof is 6 m. With a wider span, it is advisable to use other technologies, since the ability of the sloped roof rafters to withstand the increased load is significantly reduced. If the width of the house is less, then the rafter beams and reinforcing ceiling beams will rest on a Mauerlat from a bar with a section of 90x140 mm.

The basis of a sloping roof is either load-bearing walls or a rafter system of hanging and layered rafters, which is better made of wood so as not to make the structure heavier. The use of metal and reinforced concrete products is undesirable. The board should be thick, at least 50 mm in cross section, up to 18% moisture, treated with linseed oil. Conifers are more often used to create the supporting structure of a sloping roof, as inexpensive.

A characteristic feature of roofs with a bend is the splitting of the slope into two parts, each of which (upper or lower) is mounted at its own angle - the upper parts are usually 15–30 °, the lower ones 60–70 °. A broken structure is assembled using brackets. Their number and installation location depend on the type and area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. The structural elements also depend on this, nevertheless, in the main types, they are necessarily inherent:

The finished roof structure, created correctly, consists of:

• finishing material, plasterboard, steam, heat and waterproofing layer;
• battens, counter battens and roof decking.

Sloped roof calculation

The calculation is carried out taking into account the type of the main roof covering, as well as the angles of the rafters. It is simple to calculate the required volume of covering material for a sloping roof:

• measure the length and width of the slopes, multiply, get the area of \u200b\u200beach slope;
• the calculated areas are summed up and the result obtained is divided by the area of \u200b\u200bthe roofing flooring (sheets of metal, ondulin, etc.) + 10-15% for overlap and stock.

Insulating materials are calculated similarly.

Before calculating the rafter system, you need to draw up a house plan and look at the maps of snow loads and wind loads by area. Anyone who is familiar with ArchiCad or SolidWorks and knows the basics of construction can create a roof project for his house in these programs, where all elements have weight and size. On the basis of which, you can immediately make an estimate and find out what the costs of arranging the selected roof will be.

Video: Roof Rafter System Design in ArchiCad and SolidWorks

We draw a sketch of a house on a checkered leaflet, where we display the features of the rafter system of a sloping roof - the shape, width of the wall, angles of inclination of the slopes, etc. Let's take a sketch from a photograph as an example.

When drawing up a diagram of a house, it is necessary to observe proportions

Initial data: the width of the wall on which the end of the roof is formed (B d) 6.4 m, is being built, for example, in Tyumen, the height of the box according to the sketch is 2.3 m, the distance from the ceiling to the ridge of the roof is 3.5 m, the angles of the slopes are the angle a 60 ° between the overlap and the slope and the angle b at the bend of the slopes is 30 °, the desired height of the room (N m) is 2.5 m, there is no extension of the floor beams outside the wall (B c), the rafter pitch is assumed to be 0.6 m ...

We find the location of the construction on the map and find out the amount of snow loads for a given area. Moreover, if construction is carried out on the border of the regions, then they prefer a greater value. In our example, the snow load (Tyumen) is 180 kg / m².

The amount of snow loads is determined depending on the terrain

We determine the value of the wind power from the wind load map and multiply it by the correction factor (k) from the table below, since here the type of terrain and the height of the future structure matter. In our example, the wind load for Tyumen is 24 kg / m², k 0.65 (column "B"). So we get 24 x 0.65 \u003d 15.6 kg / m².

Wind power map is determined for all regions

Table: coefficient (k) for terrain types

If the house is being built within the city limits, but near the sea, then the value of column "A" is taken.

In our example, the value of column "B" is taken - the height of the house is over 5 m and it is being built within the city limits (Tyumen) in a cottage village where there are no high-rise buildings.

Video: sloping roof with an attic, part 1 - design diagram, loads, DCS

We carry out calculations.

1. We calculate the dependence of the width of the attic on the steepness of the attic slope (angle a) according to the laws of geometry - B m \u003d B d - (2 x (N m: tq a)) \u003d 6.4 - (2 x (2.5: tq 60 °) ) \u003d 3.51 m. The calculation was made without the removal of the beams, when the rafters rest on the Mauerlat. With the removal of the floor beams outward, for example, by 0.5 m, the width of the attic room will increase to 4.01 m. Hence the conclusion - the greater the removal of the floor beams, the wider the attic room can be made.
2. We calculate the total height of the roof: H m + H k (the height of the ridge triangle), where H k \u003d 0.5 x B m x tq b \u003d 2.5 m + (0.5 x 3.51 x tq 30 °) \u003d 2 .5 m + 1.01 m \u003d 3.51 m.
3. We calculate the length of the rafter legs: to calculate the lower rafter legs H m: sin of the angle a \u003d 2.5: sin 60 ° \u003d 2.89 m the length of the rafter leg; for calculating the ridge rafter H k: sin angle b \u003d 1.01: sin 30 ° \u003d 2.02 m.If the structure is formed with the removal of the floor beams, that is, the roof overhang is formed due to the extension, then the calculations of the rafter legs are completed ... If there is no removal of the beams, then lengthening of the rafters will be required, which means that an additional calculation must be carried out.
4. We calculate the elongation of the rafters - the working length of the filly - by the planned amount of the eaves overhang according to the formula - the desired length of the eaves overhang (k): cos angle a \u003d 0.5 m, for example: cos 60 ° \u003d 1 m.
5. Find out the slope of the slopes and the amount of load on the rafters, guided by the table "Recommended slopes of pitched roofs" below.
6. We calculate the load on the rafters. For this we will use the initial and calculated data. Load due to the slope of the slope (for example, metal roofing) + snow load, according to the snow load map + wind load (determined from the map, adjusted for the coefficient). Total: 5 kg / m² + 180 kg / m² + 15.6 kg / m² \u003d 200.6 kg / m² x the specified pitch of the rafters (we have 0.6 m) ≈ 110 kg / running meter.

Knowing the magnitude of the load, you can correctly choose the cross-section of the rafter lumber.

Table: relationship between load and beam thickness for a rafter system

Note: when choosing a load, we round up.

Video: sloping roof with an attic, part 2 - calculation in Scad, selection of sections of roofing elements

When purchasing lumber, it is necessary to take into account the insulation, as well as the ventilation gap and the vapor barrier layer of the roofing "pie" (which is 20-30 mm).

The calculation of a sloped roof is voluminous, but uncomplicated. You can do it yourself manually or using the Scad calculation program. You can also use the online calculator for calculating the rafter system on construction sites, where you need to enter the requested data and get a ready-made calculation.

Video: sloping roof with an attic, part 3 - construction and layout

Projects of houses with different types of sloping roofs

Due to the design features, sloping roofs differ in appearance:

• with the support of the lower rafters on the Mauerlat;
• with the removal of the lower part of the layered rafters outside the wall;
• using only layered rafters.

Depending on the features of the rafter system, sloping roofs have a different look

In the first version, the floor beams are installed so that they do not slightly reach the walls of the lower floor. The lower part of the slopes consists of layered rafters and is attached to the walls of the building with a Mauerlat. The frame of the attic is made of vertical elements (racks). It turns out the constituent elements of the roof in the form of triangles along the walls, interconnected by fights. And already to them are attached the upper parts of the ramps from the hanging rafters resting on the puff.

In the second version, the lower edges of the rafters are brought out outside the house, which makes it possible to increase the size of the attic. And the larger the takeaway, as mentioned above, the wider you can make the room under the roof. In this case, the support for the rafters is not the Mauerlat, but the floor beams that are held by the Mauerlat. The rafters are supported by struts. The posts are recessed into the ceilings, but no more than 1/3 of the thickness.

In the third version, there are no hanging rafters. The upper slopes also consist of layered ones, which are supported by tightenings.

Roof structure without vertical elements

There are also other versions of the sloping roof, one of which is quite interesting - in this configuration there are no vertical posts, and the rafters are all the same length. Outwardly, the roof resembles an octahedron. The ceiling of the under-roof room will be in the form of a four-sided vault.

The key feature of such a device is to increase the bearing capacity of the rafters, for which, on each of them, 2 metal plates (metal thickness 3 mm) are fixed on both sides at the fracture point. In addition, crossbars are installed in the upper part of the structure, due to which the load is additionally removed from the flatter part of the broken roof. Such a solution makes it possible to strengthen the rafters, redistribute the load of the bearing elements, remove the racks and thereby significantly expand the room.

Sloping roof with attic

There are a great many houses with an attic, because they are:

• an attractive silhouette of the roof, and with it the whole house;
• increasing the usable area through the rational use of the available;
• fast construction and low costs.

The construction with a sloping hip-type attic roof maximizes the use of the internal space of the attic

Attic houses with a sloping roof look especially unusual, where one slope is with a break and the other is straight. Such an architectural technique is used when the asymmetry of the pediment is conceived according to the project and it is necessary to move the attic room to one or the other wall. Outwardly, such a house looks stylish. It is easy to install solar panels, climatic or heating systems and other technological equipment on an asymmetrical roof.

The sloping roof is wonderfully combined with various futuristic shapes, including asymmetry

DIY broken roof: step by step instructions

Before installing the roof, all wooden elements are treated with antiseptics, fire retardants and impregnations from decay. They are stocked with basic roofing material, insulating and metal fasteners for fixing the rafters to the Mauerlat.

1. A crate is made of a thick profiled beam, which will form the basis of the rafter system. To do this, the Mauerlat is rigidly coupled with the overlap. For soft roofs, a continuous sheathing is needed. For solid ones, such as metal or slate, the lathing is assembled in increments of 0.2-0.5 m.

   For solid roofs, a sheathing of a thick profiled bar is installed

2. The planned attic is separated by racks, the racks are connected with shared runs, and beams are laid on top, which will be puffs (connecting parts) for hanging rafters.

   The intended room is allocated with vertical posts, which are fastened with longitudinal girders and beams

3. Layer rafters are installed, checking the planes of steep slopes, and then hanging ones. Attention must be paid to the correct layout of the nodes at the bend points.

   The frequency of fastening rafters and lathing depends on the materials of the roof

4. Support, if required, the layered rafters with struts, and the upper tightening, so as not to sag, is suspended with a headstock.

   To increase the strength in the layered rafters, struts are installed

5. The facade components of the structure are adjusted (window and door openings, if windows and a balcony are planned).

Of course, this is not the only technology for arranging a sloping roof. There are a number of others, and the choice depends on many factors - the material used, the layout, the type of roof, the conditions for installation work, etc.

Video: broken roof truss system

Installing the rafter system yourself

Installation of a sloping roof is convenient because it allows, as already mentioned above, to collect many structural elements on the ground.

Only an experienced roofer will be able to align all the elements of the rafter system with a stretched cord. Even the smallest deviation (0.5–1 cm, for example) will lead to the roof “walking”. And this is unacceptable, especially when it comes to arranging living quarters under the roof.

Video: simple advice - how to install the rafter legs exactly and in the same plane

Sloping roof design

The design of the roof means the arrangement of cornices (overhangs), insulation of the attic, sheathing of the pediment. These works can be classified as secondary, however very important. Arrangement of cornices - strengthening the protection of the house from moisture penetration, debris and dust entering the under-roof space. To make the cornices, the lower rafters are brought out of the building by 50-60 cm. This is the minimum size of the overhangs, which can be increased if desired.

Roof overhangs are either hemmed or not hemmed, box-shaped and shortened. The best option is hemmed overhangs, which significantly increases the functionality of the roof and gives the house a complete look. Any material is suitable for filing - lining, board, metal, plastic, soffits. It's all about the taste of the owners and the design of the house.

Different materials are used for filing the eaves of a sloping roof

In addition to the cornices, it is desirable to protect the frontal part of the roof, since in broken structures the pediment performs serious functions - it preserves and maintains the thermal regime in the attics. Therefore, it should not only be durable, but also well insulated and attractive. If the project does not provide for full glazing of the pediment, then it is usually sheathed with the same material as the whole house is faced with. Often they use wood if the house is brick or frame, along which carvings are applied. The skillful design of the pediment makes it possible to beautifully beat the most common construction of a sloping roof.

A spectacular element of the architecture of a country house with a sloping mansard roof is the continuous glazing of the pediment and the arrangement of the balcony

Insulation of a sloping roof

Due to the peculiarities of its design, a sloping roof must have good thermal insulation. If the attic remains "cold", then it will be enough to insulate only the ceiling that separates it from the house itself. As for the premises planned for housing (attics), everything is already insulated here - slopes, pediment, ceilings and walls.

The most demanded heat insulator for mansards is mineral basalt wool, laid in layers. It features almost zero moisture absorption, excellent vapor permeability, good fire resistance and low cost.

Mineral wool is a common material for attic insulation

If the insulation scheme has a polymer structure, then it is better to use foam that is not inferior to basalt wool. Although the vapor permeability coefficient of mineral wool is higher, vapor practically does not accumulate in the foam, but is discharged through the irregularities and joints of the insulation. It is worth noting extruded polystyrene foam, which can serve for many years without losing its properties. And, of course, sawdust, the main advantage of which is low cost, environmental friendliness and excellent thermal insulation properties.

Insulating materials are placed between the rafters as tightly as possible, leaving voids is unacceptable.

Video: how to insulate the roof of the attic with sawdust

The structure of a sloping mansard roof implies a single system of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. All layers are laid in a certain order with mandatory ventilation gaps, which will allow moisture to be removed from the insulation. Consequently, water vapor will not accumulate in the under-roof space, which means that the roof will be able to "breathe" freely.

The room under the roof intended for housing is insulated in accordance with all the rules for thermal insulation of buildings

From the inside, the entire structure is sheathed with plasterboard for further finishing of the attic room.

Video: warming a broken roof attic

Roof cover is one of the final stages of roofing work, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

At this stage, it is important to choose the right covering material. Here again, we return to the maps of snow and wind loads and see in which zone the site is located, and what the loads will be on the roof.

If in a given area there are strong winds and heavy snowfalls, then the use of lightweight roofing materials is not recommended, otherwise there is a risk of their failure. And also do not use roll materials in climatic zones with hot summers.

The most common roofing materials are slate and metal.

Sheathing the gable of a sloping roof with your own hands

Pediment - the front of the wall between the roof slopes. Its shape depends on the configuration of the rafter system and the preferences of the home owners. Most often, houses with broken roofs and multi-gable ones are equipped with a pediment. Less often - with lean-to roofs and log houses, where the pediment is already inscribed in the building.

You can sew up the pediment yourself. This does not require special knowledge and skills. The gables are sheathed with vinyl siding, PVC panels, wood, corrugated board.

You can sheathe the pediment yourself

When working with siding, as a more popular facing material, they use different sheathing technologies - on a rafter system, a crate or a pre-equipped aluminum frame. The easiest option is to attach the siding to the crate.

Video: do-it-yourself roof gable cladding with siding

As you can see, there is nothing complicated if you adhere to the rules and installation features inherent in any covering material.

Video: how to build an attic with your own hands

The construction of a sloping mansard roof is the best option for a private house, as it allows you to get additional living space, which sometimes is not enough. Having studied the installation technology and adhering to simple rules for installation, cladding and roof insulation, you can make a broken roof with your own hands and easily make dreams come true. And also to enjoy the work done by yourself.

Many owners of private houses, feeling a completely understandable desire to get an extra residential floor at no special cost, turn the attic into an attic. In this case, it is advisable to build a broken line instead of a conventional roof with straight slopes. How and from what such structures are built, we will tell in this article.

Types of sloping roofs

A sloping roof differs from the usual one in that its slope consists of two planes:

• the upper one is flat;
• the lower one has a slope of more than 45 o.

It looks as if an ordinary gable roof was taken by the middle of the slopes and stretched to the sides and upward, thereby significantly increasing the volume of the attic space. But the increase in volume is only one of the advantages of such a solution. The second is the ability to make the roof taller. After all, its upper part, at the level of which the wind pressure is maximum, due to its small slope, experiences less wind loads than a conventional roof with straight slopes.

The slope of a sloping roof consists of two planes with different angles of inclination

There are the following types of sloping roofs:

1. Shed. Consists of only one broken slope, while the walls have different heights. Such a roof is the simplest, but it is rare and mainly in outbuildings.
2. Gable. The classic version, which includes two broken slopes falling in different directions. The ends of the roof - the gables - are vertical and represent the continuation of the walls.
3. Three-slope. In this version, a third broken slope appears from one end instead of the pediment. Such a roof looks more interesting and creates less stress on the end wall foundation. The gable roof is asymmetrical, therefore it is mainly used on attached buildings.
4. Four-slope (hip). There are no pediments, there are broken slopes on all sides. It is being built on a separate building. The disadvantage is that the volume of the attic is reduced in comparison with the classic gable version. Advantages: spectacular architecture and minimal foundation stress under the end walls.

Sloping roof slopes can be supported by:

1. Walls.
2. Floor beams outside walls. This option is more difficult to implement, but it allows you to make the attic more spacious.

Along with the usual, there are sloped roofs that have additional structural elements:

When constructing a sloping roof, a combined rafter system is used. The upper sloping rafters - they are called ridge - are hanging, that is, they are supported only by the lower ends, and the upper ones are joined to each other. So that these rafters do not disperse under the influence of their own weight and snow load, they are connected by a horizontal element - a tightening.

The side rafters are layered. They rest on the lower part - on the walls by means of the Mauerlat, and the upper part - on the vertical posts.

In the rafter system of a sloping roof, both layered and hanging rafters are simultaneously used

Due to the simultaneous presence of both layered and hanging rafters, this system is called combined. In some cases, the side rafter must be propped up in the middle with a strut that rests against the base of the rack.

The uprights, in turn, rest on the floor beams. If the attic floor is made of concrete slabs, then a wooden bar is laid on it to support the racks - a bed. The uprights form the frame of the walls of the attic room, and the puffs form its ceiling.

The frame of the sloping roof consists of rafters - hanging and layered - and additional elements that ensure the rigidity of the structure

Rafters attachment points

The reliability of the rafter system depends on the correctly chosen method of fastening its elements.

Under the influence of the load, the hanging rafters will disperse, sliding along the surface of the beam or tightening. For anti-slip, the following types of connections are used:

1. If the roof slope exceeds 35 o, a single tooth lock is sufficient for fastening.

   The spike rests against the reciprocal tightening groove and does not allow the rafters to disperse

2. For shallower slopes, a double tooth is used. To increase the strength of the connection, two stops are cut out in the tightening. One of them - the extreme one - is complemented by a thorn. An eyelet is cut out to fit its size in the counterpart of the rafter.

   For shallow slopes, the rafter leg is usually attached to the tightening using a double-tooth lock

3. The most difficult knot of a sloping roof is located at the intersection of the hanging rafter, the tightening and the layered rafter. Therefore, it is reinforced with bolted connections.

   A pair of bolts effectively counteracts the torque at the rafter connection with the tightening

4. The rafter leg is attached to the Mauerlat by means of corners and brackets. To facilitate installation and restrict the movement of the rafter, a thrust bar must be nailed to its lower surface.

   A persistent board or block stuffed onto the lower edge of the rafter leg does not allow it to slide down

Broken roofs with "cuckoo", balcony, window

If the roof has a "cuckoo", then its rafter system mates with the main one. The roof of the "cuckoo" can be:

The presence of the "cuckoo" weakens the main rafter system, in addition, it requires careful sealing of the junction of different parts of the roof. Because of this, it is better to entrust the design and construction of roofs with such elements to specialists.

The attic balcony can be organized in three ways:

To install the roof window between the rafters, the bars are fixed that outline the opening. They will act as a reference contour for the window structure.

There are cases when construction companies, in order to expand the attic space, decided to modify the classic rafter scheme of a sloping roof, abandoning the usual arrangement of racks.

The technical solution is as follows:

As a result of strengthening the bend point of the slope with overlays, a pair of rafters works like one rafter leg of a curved shape.

Is it possible to make a sloping roof with a raised tightening

The location of the tightening higher than usual is a technique that is sometimes resorted to when erecting a gable roof with straight slopes. But in the case of a sloping roof, the device of a raised tightening is not practiced, since in this case it is necessary to move the racks, as a result of which the attic room becomes less wide.

Calculation of the rafter system of a sloping roof

To determine the dimensions of the rafters, you must:

To calculate the strength, you need to measure the slope angles of the rafters with a protractor.

Strength calculation

Today, the calculation of the roof truss system can be done using specialized software systems. But you need to be able to do it manually, because in the field, a computer is not always available, and it will be useful to check the results before starting work.

To carry out the calculations, you need to know the standard snow and wind loads typical for the construction region. These data should be looked for in SNiP 01/23/99 * "Construction climatology". According to this document, in the Russian Federation there are 8 zones with a standard snow load from 80 to 560 kg / m 2.

The map shows the standard values \u200b\u200bof snow load for each climatic region of our country

The value of the standard snow load can be taken from the reference table.

Table: standard values \u200b\u200bof snow load by region

Region No.	I	II	III	IV	V	VI	Vii	Vii
80	120	180	240	320	400	480	560

The actual snow load will depend on the slope angle. It is calculated by the formula S \u003d S n * k, where S n is the standard snow load in kgf / m 2, k is a correction factor.

The value of k depends on the slope of the slope:

• at angles up to 25 o k \u003d 1;
• for slopes from 25 to 60 o k \u003d 0.7;
• for steeper roofs k \u003d 0 (snow load is not taken into account).

Parts of the slope of a sloping roof have a different slope, respectively, and the actual snow load for them will be different.

Similarly, the territory of the country is zoned according to the value of the wind load.

The territory of our country is divided into eight regions, in each of which the wind load has its own normative value

There is a look-up table for determining the standard wind load.

Table: guideline values \u200b\u200bof wind load by region

Region No.	I a	I	II	III	IV	V	VI	Vii
24	32	42	53	67	84	100	120

The actual wind load depends on the height of the building, its surroundings and the slope angle. The calculation is made according to the formula:

W \u003d W n * k * С, where W n is the standard wind load, k is the tabular coefficient depending on the height of the building and the environment, C is the aerodynamic coefficient.

Table: Correction Factor for Building Height and Terrain Type when Calculating Actual Wind Load

Height buildings, m	Terrain type
	AND	B	IN
Less than 5	0,75	0,5	0,4
5–10	1	0,65	0,4
10–20	1,25	0,85	0,55

Terrain types differ in the following ways:

1. Zone A - open areas where the wind does not meet obstacles (coast, steppe / forest-steppe, tundra).
2. Zone B - areas where there are obstacles to the wind with a height of at least 10 m: urban development, forest, relief folds.
3. Zone B - densely built up urban areas with buildings within 25 m.

Aerodynamic coefficient C takes into account the slope of the slopes and the prevailing wind direction. It should be understood that the wind can exert not only pressure: at small angles of inclination of the slope, a lifting force arises, tending to tear the roof off the Mauerlat. To determine the coefficient C, reference tables must be followed.

Table: aerodynamic coefficient values \u200b\u200b- the air flow vector is directed to the slope

Slope of the slope, hail.	F	G	H	I	J
15	-0,9	-0,8	-0,3	-0,4	-1,0
	0,2	0,2	0,2
30	-0,5	-0,5	-0,2	-0,4	-0,5
	0,7	0,7	0,4
45	0,7	0,7	0,6	-0,2	-0,3
60	0,7	0,7	0,7	-0,2	-0,3
75	0,8	0,8	0,8	-0,2	-0,3

Table: values \u200b\u200bof the aerodynamic coefficient - the air flow vector is directed to the pediment

For those sections of the roof where there is a lifting force, the value of the coefficient C is negative.

The actual snow and wind loads are summed up and based on the result obtained, the cross-section of the rafters is selected (taking into account their pitch and maximum length). Below is a table for premium softwood rafters (for other grades, the values \u200b\u200bwill be different). Its cells indicate the maximum permissible length of the rafter with the appropriate section, step and load.

Table: the maximum permissible length of the rafters in accordance with the pitch of their installation and the amount of snow load

Section, mm
	100 kg / m 2			150 kg / m 2
	Distance between rafters, mm
	300	400	600	300	400	600
38 x 80	3,22	2,92	2,55	2,61	2,55	2,23
38 x 140	5,06	4,6	4,02	4,42	4,02	3,54
38 x 184	6,65	6,05	5,26	5,81	5,28	4,61
38 x 235	8,5	7,72	6,74	7,42	6,74	5,89
38 x 286	10,34	9,4	8,21	9,03	8,21	7,17

The installation of rafters with a pitch of 600 mm should be considered the best solution: with such an inter-rafter distance, the rigidity and stability of the structure will be maximum, and for insulation it will be possible to use slabs of mineral wool or foam of a standard width.

Video: calculation of the attic

DIY construction of a sloping roof

Sloping roof refers to building structures of average complexity. If you have certain skills and a few smart assistants, it is quite possible to build it with your own hands.

Selection of the necessary materials

To build a sloping roof you will need:

1. Vapor barrier film - polymeric or anti-condensation with an inner non-woven textile layer.
2. Waterproofing. You can use a special polyethylene film or a so-called superdiffusion membrane, which retains moisture, but allows steam to pass through.
3. Annealed wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm, which is used as a fastener when installing a rafter system.
4. Other types of fasteners - bolts, nails, staples, special fastening plates with stamped teeth.
5. Steel sheet with a thickness of 1 mm or more - overlays will be cut from it for fastening the elements of the rafter system.
6. Roofing material and screws (nails) for fastening it.
7. Lumber.
8. Insulation - mineral wool, URSA (fiberglass), expanded polystyrene.

Rafters and other elements are usually made from the cheapest type of wood - coniferous. It should not contain any rotted areas or traces of damage from bugs. All wood must be treated with antiseptics before installing the rafter system.

During the construction of the rafter system of a sloping roof, pine timber and edged boards are used without defects or damage

The lumber will be required the following:

• for floor beams - a bar with a section of 150x100 mm, if the beams are supported on the external and internal load-bearing walls, or with a section of 200x150 mm, if supported only on the outer frame of the building;
• for the manufacture of Mauerlat - a bar with a section of 150x100 mm or 150x150 mm;
• for racks - usually a beam of the same section is used as for floor beams;
• for rafters - a board or timber, the section of which is determined by the above calculations;
• for some fasteners and subfloors - unedged boards of various thicknesses;
• for lathing - edged board with a section from 25x100 to 40x150 mm, depending on the pitch between the rafters and the type of roofing material;
• for counter-lattice - board 50–70 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide.

The procedure for performing work on the construction of a sloping roof

The process of erecting a sloping roof is as follows:

1. Mauerlat is laid on the walls. Under the timber, you must first lay a waterproofing gasket made of roofing material.
2. The Mauerlat is attached to the wall using studs or anchor bolts embedded in it (in this case, holes will have to be drilled in the wall) with a diameter of 12 mm. The fasteners must go into the wall body by at least 150–170 mm. Mauerlat can also be tied to the wall with annealed wire embedded in it.

   For buildings made of concrete or building blocks, the Mauerlat is most conveniently fastened to studs embedded in the armopoyas when it is poured

3. Install floor beams. If the floors are supposed to go beyond the walls, they must be laid on the Mauerlat. Otherwise, the beams are laid on the walls through a roofing felt gasket and attached with corners or brackets to the Mauerlat.
4. Determine the middle of the floor beam and retreat to the left and right exactly half the width of the attic room - racks will be installed here.
5. The timber is baited with nails, and then set strictly vertically, using a plumb line and a building level, and finally fixed to the floor beam using corners and wooden linings.

   Vertical racks are installed strictly vertically, and then tied with longitudinal girders and transverse ties

6. Having installed both posts on the floor beam, they are tied at the top with a horizontal bar - tightening. For fastening, corners should again be used.
7. On the sides of the resulting U-shaped structure, side rafters are installed. At the bottom, each rafter rests on a Mauerlat, for which a groove must be cut in it (rafter). Fastening to the Mauerlat is carried out with brackets or corners.

   The rafter leg is attached to the Mauerlat with brackets, corners and other special fasteners

8. If the length of the rafter exceeds the maximum allowable, it is reinforced with a brace resting against the base of the rack. They also use additional stances and so-called contractions.

   For additional strengthening of the rafter legs, you can use struts, contractions and additional racks

9. Determine the midpoint on the puff: a vertical bar - the headstock will be installed here. Its function is to support the ridge knot, that is, the junction of the upper rafters.
10. Install the upper (ridge) rafters. In the ridge assembly, they must be firmly attached to each other, for which it is necessary to use powerful bolts with washers or plates, or a steel plate.

    The connection of the rafter joists in the ridge part of the roof can be made end-to-end, overlapping or in half-wood

11. They put the grandmother in its place.
12. All trusses are assembled in a similar way. First, you should assemble the extreme trusses - then between their key points it will be possible to stretch the cord segments that act as a guide when assembling intermediate trusses.
13. The trusses are fastened to each other with horizontal girders, which should connect the upper parts of the racks. The purlins can also be installed at an earlier stage, immediately after the installation of the racks.
14. The finished rafter system is covered with a waterproofing film on top. As already mentioned, along with conventional polymer films, membranes are now produced that are a barrier to water, but vapor permeable. In different directions, such a membrane acts differently, so it must be laid on the right side (there are marks on the canvas). The roll of film is unwound in horizontal rows, moving from bottom to top, and the next row should lie on the previous one with an overlap of 150 mm.

    The waterproofing coating is laid parallel to the eaves with an overlap of 150 mm

15. Places of overlap are glued with double-sided tape. It is not allowed to stretch the film - it should sag by 2–4 cm. To prevent the material from slipping, it is fixed with a stapler (construction stapler).
16. A counter-lattice is stuffed along the rafters from above - boards 50–70 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide. This structural element is necessary to create a blown gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material - this will remove the condensate generated by steam penetrating under the covering.
17. On top of the counter-lattice in the direction perpendicular to it, a crate is stuffed - boards, slats or solid flooring, the parameters of which depend on the type of roofing material and the design load.

    The bars of the counter battens form a ventilation gap, and the longitudinal rows of the battens serve to fasten the roofing material

18. A roof covering is attached to the crate.

Video: installing a sloping roof

Roof insulation is carried out after the completion of the installation of the rafter system and the laying of the waterproofing layer. The peculiarity of the sloping roof is that the insulation is laid along the lower rafters and the ceiling of the attic, formed by puffs. The upper triangle of the roof is left cold to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.

Insulation plates should go into the gaps between the rafter joists with a noticeable interference so that conditions are not created for the formation of cold bridges

If an ordinary film was laid on top of the rafters as waterproofing, there must also be a blown gap of at least 10 mm between it and the thermal insulation. If a superdiffusion membrane was laid, there is no need for a gap device.

Insulation plates are laid in several layers with an offset of the joints in each row. A vapor barrier is mounted on top of the insulation.

The roof is a multi-layer structure consisting of protective films, insulation, roofing and ventilated gaps

Video: warming a broken attic roof

https://youtube.com/watch?v\u003dUqWyrNQ4eq0

Selection of roofing materials

It remains to decide what to cover the roof with. Today there are quite a lot of roofing materials, we present a comparative characteristic of the most popular of them.

Ondulin

In appearance, ondulin resembles slate, only it is multi-colored. In terms of its internal composition, it is arranged in a completely different way: it is a bituminous material, like roofing material, only not cardboard is used as a base, but a rigid sheet of pressed cellulose. Ondulin costs a little more than slate, but it still remains in the category of budget materials.

Disadvantages of ondulin:

• burns;
• has low strength;
• short-lived;
• in the heat, it can spread a characteristic bituminous smell;
• on the shaded side, like slate, it can become overgrown with moss, although manufacturers claim that this is impossible.

In addition to the low cost and wide range of colors, the material has quite tangible advantages:

• does not emit "drum" sounds during rain or hail;
• unlike slate, it is ductile, which makes it more resistant to impact and can be used to cover roofs with a complex contour ("unbending" slate would go to waste in large part);
• has a low thermal conductivity in comparison with metal coatings, therefore it does not heat up so much in the sun.

Corrugated board

Today, corrugated board is one of the most popular roofing materials. "Profiled" in translation into everyday language means "wavy", only the waves of the corrugated board are not sinusoidal, as in slate and ondulin, but trapezoidal.

Decking is produced in the form of metal sheets with trapezoidal waves

Profiled sheeting is made from steel sheets, which are covered with a double protective layer: first with zinc, then with polymer. The material is very durable: the service life can reach 40 years. But it must be borne in mind that much depends on the type of protective polymer, which is used as:

1. Acrylic. The least resistant type of coating. It is easy to damage it during installation, it burns out quickly and can peel off after 3 years of operation.
2. Polyester. Most often used. In terms of cost and durability ratio, it is the best option for normal conditions, when there is no large amount of pollution in the atmosphere, and the roof is not exposed to intense mechanical stress. Polyester is applied in a layer 20–35 µm thick; therefore, special care should be taken during installation in order not to damage the coating.
3. Plastisol (PVC-based polymer). It is applied in a layer with a thickness of 175-200 microns, therefore it has increased resistance to mechanical stress and tolerates the chemical aggression of a highly polluted atmosphere. But at the same time it is not designed for high temperatures and intense ultraviolet radiation, therefore it is not suitable for southern regions. Another drawback is that it burns out quickly (in 4–5 years).
4. Pural. This polyurethane-based coating has appeared relatively recently. It is applied in a layer with a thickness of 50 microns and is characterized by resistance to solar radiation, chemical attack, and temperature extremes. Also makes the material resistant to wear.
5. Polydifluorionad. Decking with such a coating is the most expensive, but it is also the most resistant. Designed for extreme climatic conditions or chemically active environments. For example, it is advisable to cover buildings located on the seashore or the buildings of a chemical enterprise that produces emissions into the environment with such a corrugated board.

Metal tile

The metal tile, like the corrugated board, is made of steel sheets with a polymer coating, only they are given a more complex shape that imitates the surface of ceramic tiles. It looks more impressive, but to give the desired shape, you have to use thinner steel, so the metal tile is inferior in strength to the corrugated board.

Metal tile surpasses corrugated board in aesthetic qualities, and inferior to it in strength and durability

The metal tile has the following advantages:

1. Low weight.
2. Profitability.
3. Aesthetics.
4. Resistant to fading and abrasion.

But this material has disadvantages that can upset the homeowner:

1. High level of sound transmission: during rain and hail, the house will be noisy.
2. Large amount of waste when covering complex roofs.

Monolithic polycarbonate

A transparent roof made of monolithic polycarbonate is a rather exotic option. Thermal insulation in this case, of course, is not provided, therefore such a solution will be appropriate only in a region with a warm climate.

Polycarbonate as a roofing coating is mainly used in non-residential buildings, agricultural buildings and buildings located in the southern regions

To fix the plastic panels, a frame made of aluminum or steel profiles is attached to the rafters. When fixing polycarbonate, it must be borne in mind that this material changes greatly in size with temperature differences, therefore:

• the diameter of the mounting holes should be 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the screws;
• you cannot screw the screws tightly.

Monolithic polycarbonate is different:

• impact resistance;
• low specific gravity;
• resistance to fire propagation and fading;
• inertness in relation to aggressive chemical elements;
• ease of handling and cleaning.

At the same time, this material is unstable to small sharp objects and has a high coefficient of linear expansion when heated.

Soft roll roof

Traditionally, the following types of soft roll coatings are distinguished:

All these materials are made on the basis of bitumen or bitumen-polymer mixture. They can only be used on roofs with a slope of up to 25 o - from steeper slopes such a coating can slip in the heat. Not so long ago, new varieties of soft roofing have appeared, the raw materials for which are rubber and petroleum resins. They can be laid on slopes of any steepness and at the same time, unlike bituminous ones, they well tolerate the effects of negative environmental factors (service life is 25 years) and fit into one layer (bitumen-containing materials are laid in 3-5 layers).

Such materials are also produced in our country - these are membranes "Rukril" and "Kromel". The roll width can be up to 15 m, so there will be very few seams in the coating.

Membranes are attached either to special glue or using self-tapping screws.

As can be seen from the drawings and diagrams, the sloping roof allows you to use the attic space with maximum benefit. But at the same time, it surpasses the complexity of an ordinary straight-pitched roof both in calculations and in implementation. Therefore, in the absence of sufficient experience, it is advisable to entrust its design and construction to a specialized organization.

A sloped or mansard roof is one of the most popular and common types of roofing. It is particularly effective and convenient when the attic involves the arrangement of a living room. The fracture of the slopes provides significant additional space, while the upper level acts as a roof, and the lower one becomes the walls for the room.

A house with a sloping roof is quite common in our country. This type of roof is widely used both for covering private houses and in summer cottage construction. A frame house is often just with a sloping roof. This is due to the fact that the frame structure does not imply the construction of a large house, and the attic roof helps to maximize the use of the space of the second floor to create another living room in the country house.

A sloping roof is quite simple to erect, although it requires special calculations in its design. With some experience, you can build it yourself. In the article we will look at how to build a sloping roof with your own hands.

In this article

Design

A sloping roof requires a preliminary calculation of all elements. Design is carried out in two stages:

The rafter system of a house with a sloping roof is calculated based on the weight of the topcoat. The required amount of roofing is calculated by calculating the roof area. This roof represents four planes in the form of rectangles, its area will be equal to the sum of their areas.

It is important not to forget to add 15% to the resulting number to form joints of roofing material and unforeseen situations.

Having calculated the area of \u200b\u200bthe roofing material, it is not difficult to find out its weight and, in accordance with this, design the rafter system as capable of holding this roofing material. In addition to the weight of the roof itself, when designing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account:

• A lot of other elements of the roofing pie: insulation, insulation materials, lathing;
• The length of the rafter legs, the step of the rafter system and the sheathing;
• Roof slope, ridge height;
• Temporary roof loads such as the weight of the builders, roof windows (if planned), various fences and abutments.

The choice of the angle of the roof slope is one of the important design points, which is based on a number of factors:

• Roofing type;
• Wind load and precipitation intensity of a particular region.

Classic slope angles of slopes of a sloping roof are in the range of 35-45 ° for the upper tier and 60 ° for the lower one.

It should be borne in mind that if the under-roof space is used for a living room, then the height of the ridge cannot be less than 2.5 m.

If you are planning an extension to a house with a sloping roof, we recommend that you add this to your plan in advance. As a rule, such extensions are covered with a pitched roof, which is, as it were, a continuation of one of the lower roof slopes.

If the construction of the house assumes the presence of a roof with a balcony, then it is advisable to extend the roofing so that the balcony is under its slopes and is not exposed to the destructive effects of precipitation.

Choice of materials

After completing the design work, you can begin to select materials for the construction of the roof. Broken roofs suggest a fairly standard approach to the formation of a roofing pie and the choice of building materials:

• Mauerlat and girders are made of durable thick beams with a section of 200 * 200 and 50 * 100 mm, respectively;
• Rafter legs are formed from beams 50 * 200 mm;
• To create a counter-lattice and lathing, boards of a smaller section 50 * 50 or 20 * 90 mm will be used;
• To create a warm room under the roof, you will need a 200 mm thick insulation, as well as hydro and vapor barrier materials.

A broken roof and its strength depend not only on the accuracy of the calculations made and the choice of building materials, but also on the quality of the wood. We recommend choosing beams and boards of coniferous trees with a moisture content of no more than 20-22% without cracks and knots.

Before starting installation work, all wooden elements are necessarily covered twice with special antiseptic solutions, which keep the wood from decay and pests. A roof constructed from such materials will be durable, solid and will last for more than a decade.

It is important to decide on the roofing material before starting the installation work, since a number of important features of the rafter system depend on its type, such as the pitch of the rafters and battens. The mansard roof is compatible with any type of roof, since it has a fairly simple geometry and does not give a large waste of materials.

Mounting

So how do you make a sloping roof? Building a mansard roof on your own requires compliance with a number of rules. Let's take a closer look at how to build such a type of roof step by step as a sloping roof with our own hands.

Installation of Mauerlat and rafter system

The Mauerlat bar is attached to the top of the walls with specially prepared studs. The optimal pitch between the studs is approximately 2 meters. The Mauerlat beams are additionally attached to the walls with a wire tie. To protect the walls from moisture, a layer of roofing material must be laid under the Mauerlat.

The next step is to lay the floor beams, which will serve as a frame for the vertical racks of the rafter system. The beams can be laid on the Mauerlat with fastening with iron corners or in recesses previously made in the masonry walls.

When laying beams, it is important to maintain a horizontal level.

Installation of the rafter system begins with vertical rafters with level control. Further, girders with fastening with iron corners lie on the racks. Parallel struts are fastened together with braces, which can be reinforced with struts for additional support.

The lower tier of the rafters has a Mauerlat and a purlin as its support. The rafters are cut in advance at an angle and fixed to the support with plates. The lower rafter legs are strengthened by struts, the lower edge of which is installed at an angle on the beam, and the upper edge is mounted to the rafter with a bolt.

The upper rafters are also cut out in advance according to the template. In the upper part, they are connected by boards or plates, and in the lower part they are inserted into the purlin with fastening with corners. The rafter legs are additionally reinforced with resistance to the rafter attachment and tightening.

Insulation, lathing and roofing

After the installation of the rafter system, roof insulation works are performed. On the outside of the rafters, waterproofing is laid with an overlap of the roll material of 10-15 cm. The material is attached to the rafter legs with nails. Further, the work is moved under the roof. Layers of mineral wool are laid between the rafters and covered with vapor barrier material. The entire structure is sewn up from the inside with construction cardboard for finishing the interior.

Outside, a counter-lath is stuffed onto the waterproofing layer and then the lathing with a step corresponding to the type of selected roofing material.

The roofing material is laid in accordance with the installation rules for the selected type of roof, but in general terms it repeats the basic rules: laying from the bottom of the slope upwards.

We figured out how to make a sloping roof on our own. If you follow our instructions, you will receive a strong and reliable roof that will delight you with its efficiency and convenience for many years.