How to install heating radiators in a private house. Installation of heating batteries: the technology of correct installation of radiators with your own hands

The owners of apartments and country houses have recently preferred to independently install heating devices. This is due to cost savings on those types of work that are easy to perform. It is advisable to replace radiators with the heating system turned off. Instructions for installing batteries are discussed later in the article.

As a rule, heating devices are installed in places of maximum heat loss. We are talking about window openings, where even with the use of modern energy-saving glass units, a large amount of heat is lost.

In addition to power, the correct location of devices and the correct calculation of their sizes are also important. If there is no battery under the window opening, then the flow of cold air will "flow" along the wall and spread over the floor covering. In the presence of a heater, the warm air generated by it will not allow the cold air to descend. In this case, the effect of such protection will be noticeable if the radiator covers at least 70% of the window width.

In the case when the heating device is smaller than the norm prescribed in the SNiP, it will not be possible to ensure the creation of a comfortable temperature. Cool air from above will penetrate to the floor, where cold spots will form. In such a situation, the windows will constantly fog up, and on the walls in places where warm and cold air collide, condensation will form, and dampness will appear.

Therefore, there is no need to look for batteries with maximum heat dissipation. Their purchase and installation can be justified only in regions with cold winters. In the north, large-sized heating devices are often installed using the most powerful sections. In the central regions of our country, heat transfer of average coefficients is required. In the south of Russia, low batteries with a small center distance are used.

The basic rule for installing heating devices is to overlap most of the window.

Another area that requires special attention when reducing heat loss is the front door. In private houses, as well as in some apartments located on the ground floor, this problem is solved by arranging a thermal curtain near the door.

Heating radiators should be installed as close as possible to the opening in the wall for entry and exit, taking into account the layout and the possibility of piping in this area.

Installation rules for heating devices

It is necessary to observe the linear dimensions and bindings to the wall, floor and window sill:

The above rules are generalized. Each manufacturer has its own requirements on how to correctly install and operate a heating device. Therefore, before buying a product, be sure to carefully study all the recommendations.

Mounting methods depending on the type of wall

To reduce heat loss for heating the side structure, a foil or foil screen with the functions of a heat insulator is attached to this place behind the heater. This simple method allows you to save 10-15% on heating. To increase heat transfer, this element must be located at a distance of at least 2-3 cm from the radiator. The insulating material needs to be fixed to the wall, not just applied to the battery.

Before starting work, you need to decide when you need to mount the radiators. It depends on the design features of the devices. If they are connected from the side, then they can first be fixed to the wall, then proceed with the installation of pipes. When using heaters with a bottom connection, it is recommended to install them only after all pipework has been completed.

Installation procedure

When installing heating devices with your own hands, you need to do everything correctly, taking into account every little thing.

Professionals recommend using at least three reliable mounts when placing radiators, two of which are located at the top and one at the bottom. Sectional batteries of any type are hung on the anchor with the upper collector. That is, the upper mounts withstand the main load, and the lower is used for fixing.

When installing heating devices, a certain sequence of actions must be observed:

The installation technology of heating radiators is described here in as much detail as possible. To perform these works yourself, you need to consider some points in more detail.

Installing a thermostat

The thermostat for mounting on a radiator has a threaded connection. When installing this device, it is necessary to ensure that the arrow on the body points in the direction of the movement of the coolant, which must be supplied through the thermostat.

A device designed to maintain the required temperature regime of the air is installed in a horizontal position, since its correct operation depends on it. The device detects the room temperature and, depending on its value, adjusts the locking mechanism.

The thermostat must be installed at least 80 cm from the floor, as the air below is colder. The device must be protected from exposure to sunlight, but must not be covered by furniture or curtains. The thermostat must be installed so that the existing sensor is not affected by the heat from the battery.

How to hang a radiator correctly

It is important that the heating devices are installed on a flat wall. For ease of work, you need to find the middle of the opening and draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the windowsill. This line is needed to align the upper edge of the battery along it.

The brackets are installed taking into account this line, so that after mounting the radiator is horizontal. But this provision is applicable for the circular movement of the coolant using pumping equipment.

In systems with circulation without the use of additional devices, it is necessary to create a slope of 1-1.5% in the direction towards the movement of the coolant.

Installing radiators on the wall

The batteries are hung on brackets or hooks that attach to the side structure. The last elements are mounted in the same way as when installing anchors. A hole is drilled in the wall, corresponding to the diameter of the dowel, which is inserted into this hole. The hook is then assembled into a specialized fastener. The gap between the radiator and the wall can be increased or decreased by turning the metal piece clockwise or counterclockwise.

The cast iron hooks are thick enough to withstand a higher load than aluminum radiator fasteners.

During installation, it is important to remember that the upper hooks are the most loaded, and the lower one is necessary to fix the battery to the wall in the desired position. The lower mount is installed so that the collector is 1-1.5 cm higher, since there is no other way to hang the heater.

To install the brackets, you must first attach the radiator to the wall, where it will be subsequently mounted. Further, the place of attachment on the vertical enclosing structure is determined and marked. The next step is to attach the bracket with special elements and screws screwed into the dowels, which are pre-inserted into the holes drilled in the wall. At the final stage, a heating device is hung on the mount.

Installation of radiators in the floor

If the design of the walls does not allow hanging radiators on them, the devices can be installed on the floor covering. Some devices are equipped with legs, but if for some reason they do not fit, it is recommended to use special brackets.

First, these parts are installed on the floor covering, then the radiator is hung on them. The legs are adjustable and non-adjustable. Depending on the material, fastening to the floor is done with nails, screws or self-tapping screws.

Outcome

Installing a radiator with your own hands is not an easy task, but it can be done subject to the installation technology. It should be understood that the installation of a heating system by a specialized organization allows you to obtain a guarantee for the work performed.

Installation and pressure testing of radiators is confirmed by special documents with the signatures of the contractors and the seals of the organization. If there is no need to confirm the warranty, this work can be done independently.

The main / Radiators / How to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands

Every house or apartment needs heating. Sometimes the main heating element becomes obsolete or deteriorates, you have to replace it with a new one. The choice of heating equipment must be approached responsibly. Most modern radiators are made of materials such as aluminum and steel. Bimetallic radiators are composed of both metals. How to install a bimetallic radiator with your own hands? It is not difficult, the main thing is to carefully follow all points of the instructions.

Advantages of bimetallic radiators

Bimetallic radiators are in great demand. They successfully replace old cast iron batteries, have an attractive design and are economical. However, they are more expensive than aluminum batteries.

Bimetal heating radiator

The peculiarity of this type of battery is the presence of two different metals in their composition. The core is made of steel (copper) and the body is made of aluminum.

The advantages of bimetallic radiators include:

durability (can last more than 20 years);
the ability to withstand high pressure of hot water (up to 30 atmospheres);
strength, resistance to various mechanical influences (impacts, scratches);
small center-to-center distance, which manifests itself in more efficient heating of the room:
resistance to corrosion;
high heat transfer;
stylish appearance.

Due to its advantages, bimetallic batteries are used both in private houses and in multi-apartment buildings with central heating.

Vacation home

Some bimetallic radiators differ in price. In cheap models, when both metals are heated at the same time, noise occurs due to the fact that they expand in different ways. Expensive models are equipped with a special polymer coating that dampens this sound.

When buying a radiator, you will have to take into account the diameter of the supply pipes that will be connected to it.

Calculation of the number of required sections

In order for the radiator to completely warm up the room in which it is installed and not consume excessive amounts of thermal energy, it is necessary to calculate the optimal number of sections. To do this, you need to know the power of the device (it is indicated in its technical passport) and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room (calculated by multiplying the length by its width).

Calculating the area of \u200b\u200bthe house

The power of each battery section is measured in watts. In accordance with building codes for 1 sq.m. you need 100 watts of heater power. This figure (100W) is divided by the power of one battery section. The resulting value is multiplied by the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

This is what the formula looks like:

S * 100 / P
S is the area of \u200b\u200bthe room;
P is the power of one section.

For example, the parameters of a room are 5x4 meters. Its area is 20 sq.m. Let one battery section be 250W. It turns out: 20 * 100/250 \u003d 8

This means that a battery with 8 sections is needed to heat this room. If the number is not whole (for example, 8.5), then it is necessary to round it up to a larger value (up to 9).

8-section battery

But in an apartment with non-insulated walls or ventilated window openings, the number of sections may not be enough for high-quality heating.

If more than 10 sections are needed to heat a room, then it is recommended not to combine them into one radiator, but to put two separate batteries. This will make the room heating more efficient.

Two batteries of 5 sections

Basic rules for installing batteries

Before you learn how to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator, you need to learn about the important conditions that are taken into account when installing it. Regardless of the type of battery, in order to ensure normal heat exchange and air circulation in the room, you should adhere to the following rules:

The radiator should be located under the center of the window opening. Its upper lattice should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the windowsill.
A distance of 8-10 cm must be maintained between the bottom of the heating element and the floor.
The distance between the radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm.

Distance between wall and radiator

All this will have to be taken into account not only when installing the battery, but also when purchasing it, since they come in different heights.

If reflective insulation is installed on the wall behind the radiator, the supplied battery mounts are likely to be short. Longer retainers will need to be purchased.

The battery is installed clearly in a horizontal position. It is recommended to install batteries in the same place in each room of the house (apartment).

Battery installation

Installing a bimetallic radiator with your own hands

How to install a bimetal radiator? Each battery comes with a manufacturer's manual. Its installation must be carried out in accordance with this instruction.

The most reliable option is to entrust the installation of the battery to a qualified specialist, having checked his license for this type of work. If you wish, you can install the radiator yourself. To do this, you must follow the step-by-step instructions.

Installing the battery by the master

Before installation, the radiator is flushed. Do not use alkaline products or abrasive materials. They can damage the pipe surface and result in fluid leakage.

Preparatory stage

Battery installation should be done during the summer season. Before starting work, make sure that there is no liquid in the pipes, or shut off its flow at the inlet and outlet of the heating system.

Battery installation in summer

First, you need to dismantle the old radiator and prepare a place for installing a new one.

The completeness of the battery must be checked. Usually it is purchased in an already assembled state, but if this is not the case, then you need to assemble it yourself. The assembly takes place in accordance with the instructions of the developer using a special radiator key.

Attention! In bimetallic radiators, both left-hand and right-hand threads are used.

Left hand and right hand threads

To prevent contamination of the valve intended for air outlet, a filter is placed on the supply pipe.

Radiator installation

The battery is installed according to the following plan:

Marking on the wall for mounting brackets. They should be located between the battery sections.
Fastening brackets. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall surface on which the battery is installed. On a brick or reinforced concrete wall, the brackets are fastened with dowels or fixed with cement mortar, and on a drywall surface - with a double-sided fastening.
Installing the radiator on fixed brackets. The correctness of its position is checked using a building level.
Connecting the battery to the pipes.
Installation of a tap or thermostatic valve.
Installation of an air valve (automatic is recommended, for example, a Mayevsky tap) in the upper part of the heater.

Very important! The air valve must be installed without fail, since gas formation occurs inside the battery.

Air valve for battery

Upon completion of the installation, the system is turned on. All taps open smoothly. Opening valves too abruptly can result in water hammer.

After opening the taps, you need to bleed the air through the Mayevsky tap. If you have to bleed air too often, then this may indicate a malfunction - a violation of the tightness of the battery or the heating boiler.

If you cover the heating radiator with any decorative element - a screen, screen, curtain or box, this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer. And if sensors are installed on the battery that automatically regulate the heating power, then they will respond to temperature changes not in the room itself, but under the screen.

Temperature sensors on batteries

When operating the heating system, the following rules must be followed:

Cleaning the battery twice a year - before and after the heating season.
You can completely drain the liquid from the heating system for a maximum of 14 days.
Do not open shut-off valves abruptly.
Do not paint the hole from which air comes out.

Cleaning the battery

Knowing how to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you can save on paying for specialist services. The main thing is to adhere to the rules for installing batteries and the developer's instructions. If the battery is installed correctly, and all the necessary conditions are met during its operation, then it will last a long time.

Photo gallery (13 photos)

gopb.ru

Diy installation of bimetallic heating radiators

Bimetallic radiators are rapidly gaining popularity among buyers. In terms of consumer characteristics, they are in many ways superior to cast iron, and are approximately on the same level with aluminum batteries. At the same time, aluminum radiators are not resistant to pressure drops in apartment buildings, and therefore bimetallic devices are the best choice for an apartment. This article is devoted to installing bimetallic heating radiators with your own hands.

Bimetallic radiators are superior in performance to cast iron, and are approximately on par with aluminum batteries

Bimetallic batteries have a number of important advantages:

long service life - about two decades;
high level of heat transfer;
resistance to hydrodynamic and mechanical stress;
attractive appearance;
anti-corrosion resistance;
fast response in case of need to change the temperature, achieved thanks to the use of channels with a small diameter.

The main disadvantage of bimetal is the high cost of the devices.

Installing a radiator with your own hands is quite possible, but it will require an understanding of their design features, and preferably some practical skills.

A bimetal heater includes two main elements: an aluminum body and a steel (or copper) core.

There are two types of radiators:

fully bimetallic devices, where the core is a pipe for transferring a coolant that is not in contact with the housing material;
partially bimetallic devices, where the internal channels are equipped with plates of other metal.

Fully bimetallic batteries are more durable in relation to both mechanical and hydrodynamic effects, and, accordingly, are more durable.

Calculating the number of sections

In order to calculate the required number of sections, a number of factors must be taken into account. First of all, you need to know the power of the battery and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. There are also more complex calculation methods, where additional parameters are taken into account (for example, non-standard ceiling heights, the number of windows and doors, the number of external walls, etc.).

Before installing the radiator, it is necessary to calculate the number of sections

The simplest formula for calculating the number of sections looks like this:

number of sections \u003d room area x 100 / battery power.

The standard ceiling height is considered to be 2 meters 70 centimeters.

If you have a 12 meter room and radiators with 180 watt sections, then the formula will look like this:

12 x 100/180 \u003d 6.66.

The resulting value is rounded up and as a result we find out that 7 sections are needed to heat the room.

Installing a bimetallic battery

Do-it-yourself installation of the heating device is carried out according to the instructions set out in the equipment passport.

Note! Installation of all components of the heating system is carried out in plastic packaging of the equipment and is not removed until the end of installation.

Building regulations

The installation of bimetallic devices must be carried out in accordance with the instructions of building codes and regulations (SNiP). Specific requirements are set out in section 3.05.01-85.

Installation requirements for bimetallic radiators

During installation work, you must adhere to the following parameters:

The distance from the wall is 30-50 millimeters. If the device is too close to a wall, the back of the battery will not distribute heat efficiently.
Distances from the floor are 100 millimeters. If the radiator is installed lower, the heat transfer efficiency will decrease, and it will also make it difficult to clean the floor under the battery. Also, you must not place the radiator too high, since in this case the temperatures at the top and bottom of the room are too differentiated.
The distance from the sill is 80-120 millimeters. If you make the gap too small, the heat flux from the heating device will decrease.

Installation procedure

Installation of bimetallic batteries should be carried out in a specific sequence:

mark the places for installing the brackets on the wall;
we fix the brackets with dowels and cement mortar (if we are talking about a reinforced concrete or brick wall) or double-sided fastening (if it is a plasterboard partition);
we put the battery strictly horizontally on the already installed brackets;
we connect the radiator to the pipes, install the faucet or thermostatic valve;
we put the air valve at the top of the radiator.

Note! An air valve (preferably an automatic machine) is mandatory for installation, since a small formation of gases occurs inside the device.

Before starting work, you need to shut off the flow of coolant in the heating system at the inlet and outlet, or make sure that there is no liquid in the pipeline.
Before starting the installation, you need to check the completeness of the radiator. It must be assembled. If this is not the case, take the radiator wrench and assemble the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.

The structure must be completely sealed, therefore, abrasive materials must not be used during assembly, since they destroy the material of the device.
When tightening the fasteners, one should not forget that both left-hand and right-hand threads are used in bimetallic devices.
When connecting sanitary fittings, it is extremely important to select the right material. Typically flax is used with a heat-resistant sealant, FUM tape (fluoroplastic sealing material) or Tangit threads.
Before starting installation work, you need to carefully plan the connection diagram. Batteries can be connected diagonally, sideways or bottom. It is rational to install a bypass in a one-pipe system, that is, a pipe that will allow the system to function normally when the batteries are connected in series.
After the installation is completed, the system is turned on. This must be done by smoothly opening all the valves that previously blocked the path of the coolant. Opening the taps too abruptly leads to clogging of the internal pipe section or hydrodynamic shocks.
Following the opening of the valves, it is necessary to release excess air through an air vent (for example, a Mayevsky valve).

Note! Batteries must not be covered with screens or placed in wall niches. This will drastically reduce the heat dissipation of the equipment.

Correctly installed bimetallic heating radiators are the key to their long and trouble-free operation. If you have doubts about the ability to install them yourself, it is better to contact a specialist.

klivent.biz

Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators

Updating the heating system in both a private house and in your own apartment is impossible without replacing old cast-iron batteries with more practical and modern devices.

One of the best solutions is the installation of bimetallic radiators with your own hands. Their neat appearance will fit into any interior, and high heat transfer rates will bring the long-awaited atmosphere of comfort.

The scheme of such a heating system is quite simple: the structure consists of the radiators themselves and the steel pipes adjacent to them, the joints of which are processed by means of spot welding.

Installation of bimetallic heating radiators does not require large destruction and is carried out quite carefully.

Basic rules for installing bimetallic radiators in the house

Any inept interference in the heating system can adversely affect its further operation and the quality of space heating.

Therefore, before performing the main stages of work, you must familiarize yourself with a number of rules and adhere to them in the future.

What needs to be remembered for a novice craftsman who decides to install a bimetallic radiator with his own hands?

The optimal distance from the floor to the bottom of the radiator is at least 60-70 mm and no more than 100-120 mm to maintain a high level of heat transfer;
The upper part of the radiator should be located at a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge of the window sill in order to improve convection and facilitate the installation of equipment;
It is recommended to place the radiator in the center of the window;
The equipment is installed in a strictly horizontal position;
Heating elements should be installed at the same level within each room.

The installed bimetallic radiator must not be treated with metal coatings, since an additional layer of paint can disrupt the operation of the thermostat and reduce the heat transfer rates by an average of 10%.

In addition, do not use abrasive substances to clean the device.

How to install a bimetal radiator

Replacing old batteries with new bimetallic devices can be done on your own if you have sufficient knowledge for this job.

Heating system installation is carried out in several stages.

Firstly, the master must dismantle the old heating radiators and carefully prepare the working area: outline the place for the installation of a new heater and drill holes for the brackets.

The supporting part is fixed to the wall with dowels or sealed with cement mortar.

This completes the installation of the bimetallic radiator. The equipment is equipped with shut-off valves and a bulkhead, and then the heating system pipelines are installed.

Each radiator must be equipped with an air valve. This part is necessary to remove excess air filling from the system.

In the process of filling the system with coolant, the stabilizing valve must be closed by 2/3 to prevent water hammer.

At the end of the installation of the bimetallic radiator, the first test of the structure for strength is carried out. Do not forget to thoroughly clean the radiator and remove any debris from the housing.

As the system is used, it is also necessary to follow a number of rules and adhere to some recommendations:

The radiator is cleaned 1-2 times a year - at the beginning and during the heating season;
Complete draining of the coolant from the heating system is permissible only for a period not exceeding 2 weeks;
It is forbidden to suddenly open the shut-off valves;
It is not permissible to paint the air outlet;
It is advisable to equip some heating systems with special pumps or closed expansion vessels.

Well-done work on the installation of bimetallic radiators with your own hands and successful tests will be the key to a long and reliable operation of the entire heating system.

A successful example of the installation of bimetallic radiators can be clearly seen in the video.

The creation and repair of a heating system, as a rule, involves the replacement or installation of heating devices. Fortunately, if you wish, you can carry out these works with your own hands, saving a lot of money. In what order the installation of heating radiators should be carried out, what is necessary to complete the work and what nuances may await during the repair - we will tell about this in our article.

What do you need to install?

Installation of any heating radiator does not take place without the purchase of certain consumables and the use of special devices. At the same time, regardless of the type, the set of necessary materials always remains practically identical... The differences are only in small points, for example, larger plugs are used to install a cast iron battery, an automatic air vent is placed above the system, and Mayevsky's crane is not used at all.

Unlike cast iron products, the installation of bimetallic and aluminum heating radiators is the same.

As for the placement of panel steel products, the installation procedure has slight differences affecting the moment of hanging the battery. In this case, the set must include brackets, in addition, on the reverse side there must be metal templesby means of which the heater is installed by the hooks of the brackets.

Shut-off valves

In the process of installing a heating radiator, a pair of shut-off or ball valves is also required. In the first case, they must be regulated. Products are placed at the outlet and inlet of each battery.

Ordinary ball valves are used for emergency repairs to turn off and dismantle the radiator, for example, at the time of the heating season. With this approach, even if something goes wrong during the repair, the system will still function without the part being repaired. The main advantage of this solution is the low cost of ball valves. But on the other hand, you are depriving yourself of the opportunity to adjust the heat transfer.

Shut-off control valves do almost the same thing, with one exception - they can also adjust the flow rate of the coolant. Of course, here the price of the issue will be slightly higher, but this will make it possible to change the heat transfer in the future. In addition, outwardly such devices look much better, especially in angular and straight versions. As a result, you get a cleaner strapping.

If necessary, near the ball valve on the coolant supply, you can install thermostat... It is a small element that makes it possible to adjust the heat transfer of the battery. However, if your heating radiator itself does not heat the room very well, then you should not install the thermostat! Otherwise, the flow will decrease, and the battery will heat even worse.

Today, there are various types of thermostats, ranging from electronic automatic to conventional mechanical. The latter, by the way, are used in homes more often than others.

Plug

When connected to the side, the radiators usually have 4 outputs. One of them is covered with a plug, the second is equipped with a Mayevsky crane, the other two are diverted for the return and supply pipelines. Like the vast majority of modern heating batteries, the product is usually painted with white enamel, pleasantly complementing the interior of the house.

Automatic air vent or Mayevsky crane

These elements are small devices for venting air accumulated in the radiator. Installation is carried out on a manifold, mandatory when using bimetallic and aluminum radiators. The dimensions of the device are significantly smaller than the diameter of the collector, which may require an additional adapter. However, Mayevsky taps are usually supplied with adapters. The only thing that is required from the buyer is to know exactly the diameter of the collector.

As for automatic air vents, they are also installed on radiators. In comparison with Mayevsky's cranes, they have larger dimensions, which is why they are made only of nickel and brass. Over time, air vents can become enamel, spoiling the appearance of the radiator. Based on this, the installation of these elements is carried out not so often.

Additional tools and materials

In addition to the listed elements, for the installation and hanging of heating radiators, you will definitely need brackets and hooks... Moreover, their number will directly depend on the dimensions of the battery itself:

If the dimensions of the product do not exceed 1.2 meters or the number of sections is not more than 8, then a pair of fixation points will be sufficient - one at the bottom and one at the top;

Each next 5-6 sections or 50 centimeters of length are required to use an additional retainer from the bottom and top.

To seal the joints, you will need fum tape, plumbing paste or linen roll.

At the same time, during work, one cannot do without dowels, a level and a drill with drills. In addition, special equipment will be required to secure fittings and pipes, although this is largely dependent on the type of pipe.

Radiator mounting location

It is assumed that heating systems are located under the window. This is necessary to cut off the cold air from the window with warm, rising up. It is possible to avoid fogging of windows due to the dimensions of the heater, where the width indicator should not exceed 70-75 percent of the window width. During installation, the following parameters must be taken into account:

The distance from wall to wall should be 2 to 5 centimeters;
In the center of the window opening, where the maximum permissible deviation should not exceed 2 cm;
The gap to the windowsill is 10-12 centimeters;
Between the floor and the radiator - 8-12 centimeters.

Battery Installation Procedure

Now let's talk about how to install heating radiators correctly. The work will be much easier if the wall surface behind the battery is as flat as possible.

On the site, the middle of the opening is outlined, a horizontal line is drawn under the windowsill at a distance of 10-12 cm. In the future, the heater will be leveled along this line. The brackets should be placed so that the top matches the drawn line, in other words, it remains strictly horizontal. This arrangement is acceptable for apartments and systems using forced circulation... Along the flow of the coolant in systems with natural circulation, a small slope is made, equal to 1-1.5 percent. You cannot exceed these values, otherwise stagnation will form.

Floor installation

Usually the installation of heating equipment is carried out on the walls, but it so happens that they are not able to withstand even lightweight aluminum products. This happens when plastering walls with plasterboard or lightweight concrete plaster. In these cases, a floor installation is used.

Some types of steel and cast iron radiators are initially equipped with legs, but they do not always suit the owners in terms of their characteristics and appearance.

Bi-metal and aluminum products can also be installed on the floor. This provides special brackets, which are fixed to the floor surface. Next, the heating equipment is mounted, the lower collector is installed on the legs with an arc. The legs themselves are available with either a fixed leg or an adjustable leg. Based on the material, fastening can be done with dowels or nails.

Fixing to the wall

Hooks are selected depending on the type of dowels. A hole of the required size is drilled in the wall, where a plastic dowel is subsequently installed. Then the hook is screwed in. The gap between the heater and the wall is adjusted with a hook by screwing in / out.

During the installation of hooks, it should be borne in mind that most of the load will come to the top of the structure... In this case, the bottom is only needed to hold the system in the desired position. Installation is made 1.5 centimeters below the lower manifold. If this is not done, then in the future the radiator simply will not be able to hang normally.

The brackets are leaning against the place where the installation will take place. For this purpose, the battery is first applied to the wall, after which the points of contact of the brackets are marked. Next, holes are drilled, dowels are hammered and brackets are screwed in. Having placed all the fasteners, then the battery is hung.

Methods for piping heating radiators

Installation of heating systems is carried out with subsequent connection to the pipeline. There are 3 main connection methods:

Diagonal;
One-sided;
Saddle.

When choosing radiators with bottom connection, you don't have to choose much. This is due to the fact that each manufacturer himself indicates the supply and installation instructions that must be followed! Otherwise, there will simply be no warmth in the house. When choosing systems with side connection, there are much more installation methods.

Saddle connection

With hidden pipe wiring or lower wiring, installation by this method is considered less noticeable in the finished result and more convenient.

With the lower one-pipe wiring and saddle connection, as a rule, 2 methods are used - without and with a bypass. The cranes can be mounted without a bypass; if desired, the radiator can be dismantled with a temporary bridge between the cranes.

Much less often, this type of connection is used for vertical wiring, for example, in risers in multi-storey buildings. This is explained increased heat losses, which is 12-15 percent.

Diagonal connection

In terms of heat transfer, the diagonal connection of heating radiators is considered the most optimal of all. Heat transfer is considered to be the largest.

In apartments with vertical risers and a one-pipe system, the finished result is not the most attractive, although many residents still put up with this due to the increased efficiency.

It is important to note that a bypass will again be needed with a one-pipe system!

One-way connection

In an apartment, a one-way connection is most often used. It can be one-pipe, which is most likely, or two-pipe. Today, metal pipes are most often used in apartments, and therefore it makes sense to disassemble the method of strapping with steel pipes. In addition to pipes of the required diameter, installation will also require a pair of tees, a ball valve and a squeegee.

Everything connects. Bypass is considered mandatory when using single pipe system... With it, it is possible to turn off the radiator without having to drain the systems. It is impossible to install a tap on the bypass, otherwise in this way you will block the movement of the coolant, greatly upsetting the neighbors. And in this case it will be difficult to get rid of the fine.

Threaded connections are sealed with linen winding or fum-tape. Next, paste is applied on top. You don't need to use a lot of winding when screwing the tap into the manifold. With a large amount of it, the formation of microcracks is not excluded, which will lead to further damage in the future. This point remains relevant for almost all heating products, not counting cast iron appliances.

The bypass can also be welded if you have the appropriate tools and skills.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not necessary. The return line is connected at the bottom, supply is at the top.

This type of connection is rarely used when pipes are located at the bottom, for example, when they are laid on the floor. This is due to not the most attractive view. Instead, a diagonal connection is more commonly used.

The supply pipe, bypass, is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe - to the lower one. This connection method is used for installing batteries in an apartment with a one-pipe heating system.

The main inlet pipe is installed on top of one side of the battery, and the outlet pipe is installed on the bottom, on the other side of the radiators. This method is used in our company to install radiators in apartments with a one-pipe heating system. The advantage of the method of installation of heating systems is that the battery provides maximum heat transfer.

This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a one-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method is that you can disguise the pipes under the baseboard or hide them in a screed under the floor.

In two-pipe systems there are two separate pipelines (supply and return), the supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe and the return pipe to the lower one. This method is used to install radiators in apartments with a two-pipe heating system.

The conductive pipe must be connected to the upper radiator pipe and the return pipe to the lower pipe on the other side. This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a two-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method is the maximum heat transfer of the coolant.

The supply pipe is laid from the bottom of the return pipe. The coolant moves along the riser from bottom to top. The air from the system leaves through the Mayevsky taps. Such a system for connecting radiators is suitable for heating low-rise buildings, private houses.

* Delivery of batteries is carried out free of charge in case of purchase and installation of a battery in our company.