How to make opening in the wall under the door. How to make a new doorway in a brick partition device doorways

A feature of the redevelopment of the apartment is to change the dimensions or location of door passages. The process involves dismantling the interroom partition. Start a cutting of the doorway only after registration of permits and setting time retaining racks for the slabs of the overlap.

Make the opening in the wall under the door can not be just at your request. The arrangement of the doorway in the interior partition begins with the design. The process is to design permits and fulfill certain calculations.

The size, as well as the location of the passage, directly proportionally depends on the parameters of the windows. The basis of the calculation is the ratio of the area of \u200b\u200blight outlook providing natural lighting in the room, and the floor is 1: 5.5. The last digit can be increased to the maximum up to 8. Given that the windows in the house are already installed, the parameter is customized.

When the new opening in the wall is cut, additionally adhered GOST:

  • height - 2 m;
  • width The doorway for residential rooms - 70 and 80 cm, in the bathroom - 60 cm, entrance doors - 90 and 100 cm.

Dimensions of the patch for swing doors

Additionally strengthen the passage of the jumper and. In a room with high ceilings, it is allowed to retreat from generally accepted standards to arrange a spacious entrance, if the actions are agreed with BTI and are provided for by the project.

Methods cutting

To perform a cutting of the doorway with your own hands, you will need a tool, but it is possible to choose it correctly after determining the method of work performed. The method depends on the material of the wall. It is impractical to drop chisels and sledgehammer, as the integrity of the entire partition will be disturbed. Carefully cutting the opening by the method of diamond, laser, hydroabrasive or oxygen cutting.

Diamond cutting

For concrete partitions, the diamond cutting method of the doorway using a grinder or disk saw is used. The cutting element of the tool is a metal disk with diamond spraying.

Diamond cutting method has a lot advantages:

  • low vibration level eliminates cracks even on loose partitions;
  • in the process of cutting, an accurate thin slice is assigned according to the circuit marked and under the desired angle;
  • the noise level of the working tool does not exceed the permissible threshold specified in the sanitary standards;
  • a small amount of garbage due to the absence of chips, which is impossible to obtain when using a hammer.

Of disadvantages Allocate the cost of purchasing expensive diamond disks. During the work, the concrete wall is wetted with water, but small dust still spreads indoors.

Laser cut

For laser cutting, open equipment is used expensive equipment. Previously, it was bulky and used only in production. Modern equipment for laser cutting Compact, but high cost and specific purpose made it popular only among specialized repair brigades. The incision of the concrete wall is performed by a laser cutter due to gas-discharge.

Before starting work, evaluated wall parameters:

  • thickness;
  • the presence of a reinforcing frame;
  • passing inside the partition of communications;
  • brand of reinforced concrete wall.

Additionally, the floor of an apartment building is taken into account, where cutting is provided, as well as the permissibility of wetting the concrete structure with water.

Hydroabrasive cutting

Cold cutting of the outlet in the wall refers to the hydroabrasive method. A special installation is used for work. It creates a strong stream of water at a speed of 1 thousand m / s. The liquid in the tank is mixed with abrasive particles with a diameter of about 0.4 mm. The prepared mixture through the nozzle is supplied to the design and destroys it at the point of contact. The reserve force depends on pressure. At maximum capacity of equipment, the reinforcing frame of steel rods is cut together with concrete.

The hydroabrasive cutting method has the following advantages:

  • accurate incision of concrete on the markup;
  • ecology does not contaminate due to the absence of chemical impurities and harmful gases;
  • the concrete partition is not subject to mechanical and thermal exposure;
  • lack of vibration wall;
  • weak noise;
  • the method allows you to cut the partition site at any angle, as well as make the door passage of complex shape.

Disadvantage It is the formation of dirt, high cost of consumables, large equipment dimensions. Hydroabrasive cutting applied on construction sites that are not commissioned.

Oxygen cutting

The oxygen cutting method is also called speaking drilling. For cutting the doorway, a device with a metal tube is used. After high pressure spear, oxygen is supplied. At the same time, it takes place inside the tube warming up the jet to a temperature of 1400 ° C using a gas burner. After changing the spear, the external heating source is turned off. When the temperature reaches 2000 ° C, the tube is leaning to the concrete surface and slightly turn. During cutting, it is impossible to get a spear from concrete, as it quickly cools.

The disadvantage of the method is the fire hazard, as well as the possibility of getting a burn. During cutting, split particles of slag are spilled around the room.

How to make a doorway in a concrete wall?

Before cutting, the loop in the panel house perform a number of measures to strengthen. Temporary supports support the slabs of overlapping to weaken the pressure on the partition. During the cutting of the face in the concrete wall, the following rules are followed:


If the selected cutting method requires moisturizing concrete, thin panels are sprayed with water. Partitions with a thickness of more than 30 cm are wetting constantly until the cutting is completed.

How to make a doorway in a brick wall?

The steps performed during the breakdown of the punching in the brick wall differ from the cutting of the concrete panel. The masonry consists of a series of sutures. The top of the doorway must coincide with the joint. You can not cut bricks along. Such actions weaken the PCDU and the partition will go cracks.

After applying markups, it is embellished with a routine in the brick wall of the insertion of the upper jumper. Above the laid lines are chosen by a series of bricks. In the emptiness, the jumper is larger than the width of the passage.

Further actions are aimed at cutting the face in a brick wall with a selected tool. If the masonry is disassembly, it is smarter than bricks to smoke with monting. The seams are drilled by the electric drill. The uneven protrusions of the ends of the doorway are flattering.

How to make a doorway in a wooden wall?

To cut the doorway in a wooden house, you will need chainsaw or electric saw.

Additionally refer to the cross section of 10 * 10 cm. The length of the blanks is equal to the height of the room. Bars are needed to enhance the wall. When cutting out the doorway, the wooden partition is capable of suffering. In order to avoid the deformation of the design, the bars vertically put the walls close to the slots of the future passage. In the racks and partition drill through holes and long bolts tightened the design.

To properly make a work for the house from the login, they are convinced of the presence of on top above the passage of the one-piece element. It will be carrying jumper. The markup is applied so that 1/5 of the thickness of the whole log remained below and on top of the passage during the cutting.

The sawing of the glued bar of the chainsaw can end the bundle of boards. To prevent the destruction of the material, they nail the bars with long nails next to the breakdown. At the end of the separation, the passage is strengthened, and temporary bars are removed.

For the arrangement of the doorway in the frame house, first dismantle the trim together with the inner insulation. After cutting, a frame of a bar is installed around the perimeter of the passage. Thermal insulation along with the trim is returned to its place.

Manufacturing of the face in a plasterboard partition

For the arrangement of the doorway in the interior partition from the plasterboard, the frame is first installed. The design of the steel profile gives the form of a simpleness, and also serves as the basis for fixing the sheets of HCL. Strength provides wooden beams installed throughout the perimeter of the passage. The timber is connected to metal frame racks.

Work begins with the installation of the guide profile on the floor and the ceiling. An additional element is attached to the adjacent wall. Under each profile for depreciation, put a rubber tape. To the guide at a distance of up to 40 cm fix the vertical racks from the profile that form a frame of common. The extreme racks form a passage of the passage. They are connected to vertical beams from the bar. The wooden plank is fastened from above.

To enhance the common frame, the vertical racks from the profile are connected by horizontal jumpers. The trim starts from the corner. Sheets carcarter sheets are screwed up to 20 cm with self-taps, slightly beating inside the hat. The edges of each GCL fragment must be seamless to the middle of the profile.

Gain

In order to preserve the initial integrity of the septum, it is reinforced by wooden or metal elements. The process is specified in the project, where the material is indicated and the design scheme is drawn. Additionally, the documentation displays the following information:

  • In the project enhancement project, the number and place of installation of temporary supports is indicated. The drawing shows the location of the anchors. Closeup is shown a diagram of fixing the jumpers to the floor. Conscientious designers denote the optimal way of trial cladding to hide the gain elements.
  • The project accurately displays the types of jumpers over the processes, as well as the type of racks. Framing methods depend on the material of the walls. For example, for constructed buildings from a w / b or metal frame, a minimum gain is required, and the passages on the upper floors can be additionally not strengthened.

When the doorway is strengthened in the wall of foam blocks, the welded frame is made. The design of the formation of the horseshoe fixes the bed on the ends of the walls of the passage, forming a double board. In a brick house, it will have to strengthen the jumper doorway on the nonsense interior simpleness. In a modern panel house, it is forbidden to cut partitions, even if you provide additional strengthening. Such buildings are elevated from large blocks, and they are all carriers.

Construction for strengthening The doorway happens three types:


In wooden houses for amplification, a timber or a thick board is used.

Perform cutting and strengthening the passage should be accurately according to the design. Self-made changes will lead to the looping of the box with a heavy door, as well as a violation of the integrity of the partition.

For the manufacture of door openings, various materials can be used, and the most popular material is drywall. The main advantages of drywall is low price, ease of installation, as well as simplicity of finishing. You can make this opening alone without resorting to the help of experienced builders. But how to make the opening of the plasterboard? Do I need to strengthen the framework? What should be remembered when installing drywall? Below you learn the answers to these questions.

How to make a gypsum cardboard

For the manufacture you need to install special vertical racks. After that, it is necessary to strengthen the door frame to increase the strength of the structure. Then you need to install the door frame. At the final stage, complete the finish. Let's look at each stage of installation of the gypsum cabarton in more detail.

1. Forming a carcass

At first, at the selected place, you must put special racks that will limit the opening. You need to install the racks like this:

  • Racks should stand smoothly, and you can check their location using a construction or laser level. Checking the location of the rack is very important - if the racks will stand crookedly, then you will get a crooked door curve.
  • Vertical partitions need to be attached from above and below the horizontal framework of the frame. To increase the strength of the design, you can also attach partitions to the floor, as well as to the ceiling.
  • In the height of the doorway, connect the racks with a horizontal jumper. Create metal parts with each other with the help of shortened screws for metal.
  • 2. Strengthening the carcass

    To make drywall more stable, it is necessary to accumulate the supporting structure:

    • Common wooden bars are commonly used to improve strength.
    • The thickness of the bar must be 3-5 mm less than the thickness of the metal frame.
    • The length of the bar is equal to the height of the racks.
    • Mount the bars like this: the wooden bar is inserted inside and fix it with the help of wood screws. The optimal step of the thread for reliable fixation is 1.5 - 2 centimeters.
    • The length of the self-samples should be less than several millimeters of half of the timing of timber.
    • If you are planning to install a massive heavy door from a tree, you also need to enhance with wooden bars a horizontal jumper at the top.
    • 3. Mounting boxes

      We learn how the installation of the door frame looks:

      • Typically, as a door frame, a standard factory production box is used, which is sold complete with the door.
      • If you all did right, then the gap should be between the box and vertical racks, the size of which is 3-5 mm. With this clearance, it is much easier to install the box.
      • Installation of the box usually looks like this - first need to buy special anchors; Then in vertical racks and small holes are drilled in the box, the diameter of which should be equal to the thickness of the anchors; After that, screws with a secret head screwed into the anchors; The resulting gaps between the installation foam should be pouring.
      • It should also be remembered that a large amount of mounting foam can skew the door frame, which will lead to the doss of the door itself. So that this does not happen, after pouring the mounting foam, you should install a couple of struts in several places. When the foam freezes, it is necessary to remove the struts, as well as remove the excess foam by the stationery knife.
      • After that, it is necessary to carry out the installation of plasterboard. To do this, it is necessary to neatly cut the plasterboard according to the size of the structure, and then attach it to the frame with long screws or anchors.
      • 4. Finishing work

        We learn how to perform the final finish:

        • Primer. A special soil coating is applied to the joint between the plasterboard and the protruding design.
        • Delete defects. When the primer is completely dry, it is necessary to take the seams with sickle. It is also necessary to smear with putty and primer spuning anchors to hide the transition from the wall to the design.
        • Alignment and final putty. Now you need to wash the emotional primer with sandpaper. Then you should apply another layer of putty across the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe design.
        • Pushing. Now you need to perform grinding again so that the resulting design is smooth.

        Let's find out that experienced builders are advised regarding the manufacture of door reception from plasterboard:

        • Many builders are recommended to do, since the metal is well missing sound. As a material-insulator, you can use mineral wool that advocates sound oscillations. Another good soundproofing material is a polyurethane tape. The soundproofing material should be attached to the metal frame with a special glue. It is recommended to mount mineral wool or polyurethane tape throughout the perimeter to achieve complete sound insulation of the room.
        • From drywall, not only standard rectangular openings can be made, but also arched openings, ellipsoid, rounded and so on. For that, it is necessary to give the materials you need. Set according to the standard procedure, but at the same time the profiles are neatly bend, and the profile itself can be cut with scissors for metal.

          You will also need to bring drywall - for this first you need to cut the rectangular sheet in the way you need; then go through needle roller; Now you need to wet and attach plasterboard to the metal structure. Watering the drywall should be careful - if the water is too much, the drywall will begin to crumble, which will make the resulting structure fragile and unstable.

        • Installation of doors to the wall of plasterboard is carried out according to the standard scheme, however there are several important differences. First, the bolts must be made neatly. Secondly, do not forget to strengthen the frame; If the door turns out to be too heavy, then the metal frame is quickly deformed, which can lead to a doss of the door and even to the conversion of the structure.

It may be necessary to break through the new doorway when combining two rooms in one, to optimize the planning, etc. It is not difficult to do this, the main thing before starting work legally coordinate redevelopment, how to issue it can be found out.

After agreeing and obtaining permission to redevelopment, you can proceed to work.

How to punch the opening

Whatever and quickly cope with any work is necessary to prepare well.

Preparatory work

Punching opening work is pretty dusty, so it is necessary to take care of specials in advance. Clothes:

  • gloves;
  • respirator;
  • protective glasses.

For garbage collection will need strong bags. During punching, the surface can be wedged with water - this will reduce the amount of dust. If in the room where the wall repair walls will be made through the wall is not scheduled, it is better to immediately apply it to the boards, in order to avoid damage.

Required tool:

  1. roulette;
  2. bulgarian;
  3. diamond disks;
  4. perforator;
  5. various nozzles for the perforator;
  6. chisel;
  7. sledgehammer.

Attention: it is necessary to work with a sledgehammer. Because the purpose of the work is a neat opening, not a dilapidated wall.

Video: how to make the opening in the bearing wall. The entire step-by-step process of creating the opening.

Pierce in a brick wall

First, the brick wall is cleaned of wallpaper and plaster. Then, with the help of roulette and pencil, markup is made. After that, a reinforcing jumper is installed on top. It is necessary so that the wall does not burst and not collapsed. The jumper is made from angle of at least 35 mm. Two blanks are cut for 30 - 40 cm long opening.

Bulgarian with a diamond disk from two sides of the wall cutting over the top. Slap 15 to 20 cm. More than the width of the future doorway, the depth of cut \u003d size of the corner (shelves). After that, the corners in the made rubber are inserted, fixing them with anchor heels and scoring the cracks with cement mortar.

Now you can proceed to the dismantling of the brick wall. It is possible to quickly and efficiently remove the unchecked area using a diamond saw. However, such pleasure can afford not everyone. Therefore, the Bulgarian, a perforator or a sledgehammer with a chisel is most often used.

According to the marked lines of the doorway, the grinder makes a break as far as the diameter of the diamond disk will allow. Then, a perforator or a sledgehammer with a chisel, a brick is gradually removed. After removing the entire unnecessary brick, you need to finish the jumper. To do this, both corners need to be welded with each other.

If for some reason the conduct of welding work is not possible, it can be copped with metal plates. The plates and the corner are drilled and fixed with a powerful metal tape for metal. Everything is almost ready, it remains only to refine and you can insert the door.

How to make a doorway in a concrete wall

Most often, concrete walls are carriers. And if so, then it is better to trust this work to the specialists who can correctly calculate the design features of the reinforcing frame and strapping. At first, as in the first case, markup is made.

After that, this markup must be transferred to the other side. This can be done drilled by a perforator of the hole in the corners and along the lines of the future opening. Then, with a drill with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm we make holes around the perimeter, every 3 - 4 cm.

Concrete walls are much stronger than brick, so the work will be long and heavy without a diamond saw. After the passage still breaks through, it is necessary to make a strapping from a metal channel or corners of cooked.

In conclusion, I would like to recall once again, any changes to the design features of the apartment, especially for apartment buildings, can be made only if there are permission from government instances.

Check out the video: how to cut concrete without dust yourself (redevelopment)

Repair and redevelopment of apartments and houses have become an almost national hobby of residents of the country. Reason to upgrade the residential premises can be a lot. But, in most cases, they are inflated. They are just necessary for the major repairs of old buildings.

Updated planning is a widespread phenomenon that entails not only problems in leakageing such changes and the impossibility of selling redeveloped housing, but also much more serious consequences, entangle the collapsions of residential buildings and human sacrifices.

In order to prevent these consequences, there is a special procedure for making changes in the planning and design of premises with which you can read in the article offered to your attention, as well as learn about the features of the device for door (window) openings in the walls of various building materials.

Registration of redevelopment in the form of a loot in the wall

Before starting the device of the door (window), the outline in the place not provided for by the architectural plan, it is necessary to find out whether the wall in which is scheduled to make the opening carrier or it performs the non-core (separation) function. Make it can be found with the shopping room or contacting the manager of the serving house.

In the future, it is decided on the economic feasibility of the device of the doorway and miscalculate the costs of non-productive nature associated with the preparation of the project by a specialized organization, obtaining permission in the local administration (housing inspection), legalizing the changes made to the BTI.

The algorithm of action is approximately like that:

  • Order a refreshing project in a specialized design and construction organization;
  • Coordination of the project in the housing inspection of the administration at the location of the object;
  • Application to the administration;
  • Documents for ownership of the redeveloped premises;
  • Technical passport of the room;
  • The consent of all residents registered in the residential premises for redevelopment;
  • Permission of inspection on the objects of historical and cultural heritage, if the premises is in a building representing historical value;
  • Obtaining a new suggestion with an indication of the changes made.

If these bureaucratic barriers do not frighten you, you can proceed to redevelopment.

Technical requirements for the arrangement of doorways in residential buildings

Currently, the SNiP (building standards and rules) 35-1-2001 regulates the general requirements for the arrangement of residential premises in apartment buildings. In addition to them, there are joint ventures (construction rules) 35-102-2001 that regulate the device of the passages, openings, travel and doors for persons with disabilities (wheelchair people).

Traditionally, in most residential premises of typical buildings, doorways had a width from 600 to 1200 mm at a height of 1900 to 2100 mm.

The tight doors (600-700 mm) were equipped with bathrooms, toilets, storage rooms and access to the balcony (loggia), the widest - entrance doors and interior doors in the living rooms (900-1200 mm).

Based on these generally accepted standards, it is planned to plan the arrangement of a new doorway or an extension of an existing one.

The device of arched window openings in typical projects is not provided and can be performed only under the condition that the wall is not carrier. To do this, use a shaped channel with an appropriate bend.

Preparation for work on the installation of the street in the wall

For the arrangement of the loot in the wall, regardless of the material, from which it is made, the same type of construction tool will be required:

  • Perforator;
  • Concrete drills (brick) with a length greater than the thickness of the wall 100-150 mm;
  • Corner grinding machine (Bulgarian) with a disk diameter of at least 400 mm;
  • Cutting discs on stone (concrete) D-400 and more mm;
  • Cutting discs for metal (for cutting fittings);
  • Sledgehammer;
  • Chisel;
  • Pick;
  • A hammer;
  • A set of tool for working with electrical wiring;
  • Building level;
  • Plumb;
  • Spatulas and Kelma for concrete solution;
  • Mixer for the preparation of the solution;
  • Set of wrench for a screed of metal jumper structures and reinforcement;
  • Welding machine.

In addition, a protective suit should be prepared, respiratory protection equipment from construction dust, building glasses or a plastic shield to protect the eyes, covering the floor and interior items.

Open in the bearing wall

In front of the device with a metal detector and the determinant of the electrical wiring, the presence of metal structures and electrical wires is installed in the thickness of the wall.

In case of detection, the wiring is transferred to a new place.

The doorway suitable should be located no closer than 300 mm from the existing ventilation mines and chimneys.

Two jumpers are pulled by bolts

The sequence of work on the device in the wall:

  1. Installation of supporting layers of overlapping;
  2. Removing the plaster layer on the area of \u200b\u200bthe planned doorway;
  3. Accurate determination of the borders of the doorway and applying its circuits on the wall;
  4. Drilling through holes over the top edge of the doorway;
  5. Niche strobalization for laying a jumper on ½ wall thickness;
  6. Laying the jumpers and fill its concrete;
  7. A niche strobset for laying a second jumper (after hardened concrete on the first) (the number of jumpers may be more than 2 and equal to the wall thickness);
  8. Screed of metal (steel) swaths of jumpers with each other bolts;
  9. Drilling holes along the contour of the doorway from the intervals of 20-30 mm;
  10. Drilling holes for breaking the area of \u200b\u200bthe doorway per squares (8-12) depending on the area;
  11. Sleet the contour of the doorway and the squares "Bulgarian" on both sides of the wall;
  12. Knocking out a sledgehammer;
  13. In the reinforced concrete wall - the cutting of reinforcement;
  14. Nish sticking for laying wooden bars for mounting the door frame;
  15. Installation of vertical support channels along the slopes of the opening;
  16. Welding (screed bolts) with carrier jumper;
  17. Fastening with anchors in the thickness of the wall;
  18. Alignment and plastering of the doorway contour.

About the most effective methods of cutting and drilling concrete, as well as a lot of useful information used for this tools are contained in a separate article :.

Pearls in a brick wall

The list of works is similar to the case with the opening in the bearing wall with some features.


Doorway in a brick wall

Brickwork is characterized by the presence of a large amount of dressings between individual bricks, therefore, after removing the plaster on the released wall, it is trying to combine the contour of the future opening with places of bricks with a solution. Particular attention should be paid to the upper border of the doorway. It must be held at the location of bricks. It is strictly forbidden to cut bricks along with the aim of adjusting the size of the opening of the box. Excessive space over the jumper is filled with mortar.

The cuts of the discontinuity of the bricks are desirable to knock out with the help of a hand chisel and a heavy hammer hitting the joints between bricks. Disassembly of brick masonry always lead from top to bottom. Use the shock perforator or a jackhammer is not desirable that the vibration does not destroy the connection between the bricks on the adjacent parts of the wall.

If the side surfaces of the doorway cannot be cut through due to the large brickwork thickness completely formed after the excavation of the cavity bricks immediately fill in cement mortar. Before this brickwork is abundantly moisturized with water.

Device opening in concrete (reinforced concrete) wall

A characteristic feature of the device of openings in reinforced concrete walls is the presence of metal fittings in the thickness. To prevent breakdowns of cutting discs (especially expensive with diamond spraying), it is pre-using a metal detector, determine the locations of the rod of reinforcement and mark the bright insanible marker. The drilling holes are carried out at a distance of 20-30 mm away from them. The frequency of drilling holes on the opening area increases compared with openings in a brick or block wall 2-3 times.


Doorway in a concrete wall

Working in order to save time on replacing cutting discs is more convenient than two "grinders" simultaneously: on one - with a disc on concrete, on the second - for metal.

After knocking out with a perforator or jacking hammer of the upper row between the holes, the valve is cut off. After that, you begin knocking out the next row. Work lead from top to bottom.

In reinforced concrete walls, they usually do not fit the transverse jumper, and strengthen the penetrated doorway using a all-welded or metallic frame, installed in the punched opening. It is fixed to the wall using spacer anchors or rods of reinforcement, driven into the wall, with welding. You can use the fastened from the wall cut by reinforcement.

Open in the wall of blocks

Especially popular in modern construction blocks, for example, hollow blocks of ceramzito or slag concrete are convenient to work in the fact that they are easily cutting with cutting discs on stone (concrete). The amount of dressings are significantly less than in brickwork. The block, unlike the brick, can be cut across along the upper edge of the day without losing its strength. The principle of arrangement of the opening is the same as when working with brick masonry. The jumper over the opening should be wider the doorway for the block length on each side.

The technology of strengthening the side of the doorway is similar to that in the brick walls.

Expansion of the day in the wall


Expansion of the day in the wall

Technologically simpler option. Initially determine the length of the jumper located above the doorway. After that, calculate the possible width of the expansion of the opening. The jumper should rely on the laying of at least 500 mm. If this condition is not possible, it is impossible to initially pull the vertical groove along the side of the wall with which it is planned to expand. After that, a vertical backup (channel) is mounted in the groove that should be tightly restarted into the bottom edge of the jumper. Similarly, the vertical backup on the other side of the wall is fixed. Tighten or weld them with each other. Only after this starts work on the drilling and cutting wall to expand the opening.

Performing work on the doorway device is severe physically and very dusty work. It is recommended to independently perform it only on nonsense (interroom) walls laid out of bricks or blocks.

Over time, many of us come to the decision to change the existing planning of your home, so quite often the question arises, how to break the door in the wall, make the arch or opening, combining the two rooms in one. Perform the necessary repair work relatively simple, having skills in construction business. However, it is necessary to take into account not only the structural features of the structure, but also some legal aspects. Before redeveloping, it is mandatory to approve the project of future redevelopment, as well as take permission in the housing inspection of the city or district. The initial stage includes preliminary preparatory work, the acquisition of the inventory necessary for the work and building materials.

Preparatory stage

If there is a need to break through the opening in brick, stone, concrete walls, you will need a perforator with various nozzles, Bulgarian, saw with diamond disks, a sledgehammer, a jackhammer, chisel, roulette, pencil, a building vacuum cleaner. All work needs to be carried out extremely carefully, adhering to strict sequence and safety, since the redevelopment is a rather time-consuming, complex and responsible process. Before starting repair work, it is necessary to check whether there is no wiring opening opening, engineering communications or chimney pipes, the minimum distance to which should be at least 300 m. If necessary, the wiring can be transferred. It is also necessary to take into account in which brick wall (carrier, non-relaxing, hardness) will be carried out with a doorway, arched opening, not to deform and weaken the whole support structure of the structure. If you break through the doorway for the door in the non-rigorous walls to reduce the risk of collapse, prevent deformation, make markup, and the disassembly of bricks begin with the upper rows (from top to bottom), directing the chisel perpendicular to the surface. In addition, it is necessary to pre-draw a project of the doorway.

From the surface of the brick walls, old coatings are dismantled, wallpaper and remove the layer of plaster. The plaster layer is removed until the brick appears. Then using a roulette, a pencil or chalk mark the markup of the future opening. To the wall does not like and not collapse, you need to know how to strengthen the doorway correctly. First of all, you need to make a reinforcing jumper from a corner of at least 35 mm. For this, two corners cut off, which should be 35-40 cm longer opening. The enhancement jumper provides a protective function by taking part of the load from the wall over the future opening, from supporting floors, as well as from the walls of the upper floors, roofing design. The safety of the entire design of the wall and structure completely depends on the quality of the mounted jumper. Preferably for the manufacture of jumpers to use durable steel. Designing jumpers need to be taken into account the following aspects: the magnitude (length and width) of the doorway with respect to the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls; distance from opening to adjacent walls; distance from the upper boundary of the opening to overlaps; thickness, general condition and building materials, from which the wall is erected, its qualitative, technical characteristics; number of floors above the doorway; Location Plate overlap.

Sequence of work

After the preparatory stage is completed, it is possible to move on the main work, namely, dismantling the brick wall and punching the opening to install the door. To do this, it is preferable to use a sledgehammer with a chisel, a saw with a diamond disk or a jackhammer. Bulgarian with diamond circles, perforator on both sides of the walls you need to drill the top of the opening, which should be 17-22 cm. More than the width of the doorway itself. The depth and width of the holes should be equal to the size and width of the corner. At the next step, you need to insert pre-prepared steel corners in the well-done holes and secure them with the help of anchor studs. The slots are filled with a cement-concrete mixture. When using a diamond circle of work carried out in protective glasses. According to a predetermined lines of the doorway, using a grinder, the wall is cut into such a depth, which allows the diameter of the diamond circle, after which the sledgehammer (perforator) is proceeded to gradually remove bricks. It is worth noting that it is necessary to disassemble the brick on both sides of the wall, while only one layer of brick masonry is permissible to dismiss only one. After dismantling bricks on the sides, it will be quite simple to cut the hole on. At the next stage, the jumper is completed. For this, two corners are welded among themselves at the bottom or fasten them with each other plates of metal or screws for metal. At the final stage, the necessary finishing works are carried out and installed a new door.

Punching opening in concrete walls

Since the walls made of concrete are mainly carriers, if there is no experience in conducting such construction work, breaking the opening is better nevertheless to entrust professional masters that can accurately carry out all the necessary calculations, taking into account the design features of the strapping and reinforcing framework. Punching of the opening in the bearing wall begins with the markup, which is done on both sides. In order to transfer the markup to another surface of the wall, the perforator and drills with a diameter of 10-12 mm are used, which are made through slots throughout the perimeter, retreating every three or four centimeters. Since concrete walls, unlike bricks, have greater density and thickness, all work performed only with diamond discs.

After breaking through the doorway to the installation of the door, make the strapping from steel corners, fixed with the help of welding or use the sewlings of the desired length. For the installation of the channels, niches break through both sides of the wall using a jackhammer, or work manually. Each deepening for the placement of the channels is well cleaned from the residues of bricks and dust, after which the cement-concrete mixture is placed on the surface of the niches, and channels or corners are inserted into it. The formed emptiness is closed with cellular concrete plates, brick desired size. Inserted screws insert into the ends of which the washers put on the ends and screw the nuts. After the cement mixture will completely dry and hardens, it is possible to pierce the opening in the wall. The reinforcing metal mesh is mounted on the slope and the jumper and the layer of concrete solution is poured on top. After the surface is plastered, finishing works are carried out and the door is installed.

It is worth noting that if the opening of the door is punched in the outer wall, it is necessary to additionally think over insulation, which will prevent the penetration of heat into the room. For this, special waterproofing building materials and insulation are used.

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To date, the installation of the door is not very difficult, since the doors manufacturers sell their products already equipped with a box, loops and handle, and often painted or opened with varnish. Select the suitable interroom doors can be practically under any opening. If the opening does not match the standard sizes, then you will have to order the door to individual size. The installation takes into account not only the width and height of the opening, but also its thickness.

Before starting the installation, you need to moisten the discourse in order to achieve a good clutch of the mounting foam with the cavity of the opening.

Then the packet is inserted into the opening and levels vertically and horizontally. You need to focus on the width of the gap between the box and the canvas. In theory, it should be the same at least on opposite sides of the door.

Having completed alignment, it is necessary to fix the parties of the box with the help of fasteners, and cavities to close the mounting foam. After the foam is dry, it is necessary to remove its surplus and attach the platbands.

Only after that you can put the cloth itself. And in conclusion, the work of the door itself and the door lock is checked.

Installing the interior door. Interroom door, perhaps, one of the most significant elements of residential premises not only in the functional plan, but also as a designer object.

The choice and installation of the door is a responsible step, since the beauty and comfort of the room largely depends on this.

Production of opening under the door in the wall

The door is installed after the end of all repair work, but it is necessary to choose it before the start of repair, so that then it does not have to expand or narrow the doorway.

The dealership chain of stores are widely known and uses the deserved popularity of the stores where the doors of standard sizes are sold, calculated for installation in standard doorways.

Before choosing the door, it is necessary to measure the opening, if it is standard, then you can safely buy the sample you like, if not, then when repairing it will need to fit the opening of the door block to the size of the door block, and necessarily leaving a small gap so that the box is easily entered.

The ideal is considered the discovery, which is in width and height more than the door block by 80 mm, and its thickness is 75 mm.

A small slot around the perimeter of the box will be closed by platbands.

If the parameters of the doorway do not match the standard, then it is better to make the door to order, then when installing, you do not have to increase or saw the box of the door block.

The following sequence is as follows:

1. First delete the base

If there is a cement base, you can throw it at the end with the last brick type. Cement plaster facing the door loop.

2. Under the new jumper cleaned more bricks

at 2.1-2.15 m, and the old cement solution falls out of the brick in the molded niche.

The width of the relief rope must be 100-300 mm more width of the installed door box. When setting up the 60 cm door leaf, it is necessary to confirm 4 bricks (on the brick image with the contour door, which are cleaned, are specified in white) for the doors of the cloth 70, 80 and 90 cm - 5 bricks (the fifth brick is shown in the purple figure) 6 need to burn Rarely bricks, but sometimes it is necessary:

Picture 1.

Barrier marking under the neck.

For acidic spraying bricks, at least the first, accompanied by the minimum loss of the stiffness of the barrier around the brick solution, is preferably before perforation for drilling, or at least perforation of the solution around the brick. If the section is set for a long time, a high-quality and long-term solution, if it is stupid to hit the bricks, it will be released from the effect of the load, it will first need to redistribute to neighboring bricks, and therefore physical strength to bring down bricks should consume much more.

And secondly, due to the redistribution of voltage, the solution is completely destroyed in the place where strikes are performed. Perforation reduces the surface of the solution and increases the likelihood that the brick will be omitted. This recommendation also applies to cases when the masonry solution is too weak and simply destroyed, and especially for partitions in the Cyprius quarter.

For example, the strength of the solution of the M150 solution for stretching can reach 2-2.5 kg / cm2 several years after splitting the partition.

At the same time, the area of \u200b\u200bthe destructible solution is about 700-800 cm2 around the brick on the floor of the brick wall. Accordingly, this solution withstands the static load to 1.4-2 tons. Of course, during operation, the multicogical hammer produces a brick load, and the solution will be shock, not static, but all are equal to pure bricks in such solutions for one impact of hammer hammers, the speed of sled at the time of contact with the brick permutation should be large enough, and the septum is deformation quite small.

And besides, if the barrier is quite high, as close as possible to bricks in the middle of the height, the probability of the decomposition of the entire partition is higher.

When performing perforation, the surface of the brick is reduced, in addition, the residual strength of the solution decreases, and the redistribution of the load decreases significantly.

Nevertheless, they do not work well, but when the bricks are breaking under the brick bridge they can also fall.

Everything is in order, you can put them on the jumper.

3. In the molded hole of the roller profiles, a standard concrete or metal bridge is formed.

The jumper should be on the solution.

If there are no specific canopies or metal angles, you can use wood in place or place several reinforcement rods with a diameter of 12-20 mm.

fourth

Closed cement slot

the rest after laying the jumper (especially the seam between the jumper and the old brick line). In Figure 2, a new solution has a dark gray color. Small cracks can be blown up by the foam team, but not only with the help of the stitch between the new jumper and the old brick line.

fifty

After installing the jumper, you need a technological break 5-14 days

it is necessary that the new solution will be strengthened. After that, the rows of bricks, from which the width of the new opening is 5-15 cm wider than the box of new doors.

How to make the door: break the hole in the brick wall do it yourself

Since the partition was stored in a suit, it must be carefully accomplished so as not to disturb the integrity of the non-destructive part of the partition. This can be done in several ways:

6a. First remove bricks

which completely impede the new door. Half bricks at an altitude of 1 m from the ground, preventing the appearance of new doors (in the image marked in red), smooth, in a part of a scattered hammer, a blow or hammer and chisel.

The direction of impact should not be perpendicular to the septum plane, so as not to destroy the bulkhead, the blows should be applied from above or below. You can also completely pollute these bricks, and then install cast gaps with a half brick before installing the door. If in the following order enough space to start a shock tool, the remaining half of the stop are selected or cut into the Bulgarian language (in the figure they are marked in blue):

Figure 2..

Marking bricks under the neck.

6b. Cut hard coating bricks

Half bricks at a height of approximately 1 m from the floor, reaching the new door, cuts off the Bulgarian cutting circle around the stone on both sides, and then digs it.

The remaining distracting halves are demolished, as in the previous case.

6C. Immediately cut the Bulgarian bricks on both sides of the partition on the new door circuit with the corresponding edge to install the door, and then remove bricks.

The most dusty way. However, each work with Bulgarian dust.

7. If the bottom line is a brick to be removed in the cement screed, it must be punctured in parts. Use Bulgark under adverse conditions and dust will be greater than usual.

After removing this line, the floor surface is leveled with a cement screed.

It's all and everything remains doors.

Manufacturing door box

There are two options for laying doors that depend on the requirements for your site.

If the location of the doorway is strictly defined, the design is "tied" to it and is regulated in such a way that the seams are not placed on the plasterboard posts (Fig. 1a).

In case the position of the aperture is allowed to change, it can be "enshrined" in terms, that is, where there are no joints (Fig.

1, b). It is better to arrange a hole so that there are two structural racks on both sides of profiling. We can connect them to the door, which further strengthens the neck.

Attach the door frames to the vertical part of the wall frame wall, without establishing additional reinforcements, if the following conditions are performed: the barrier height does not exceed 2600 mm; The width of the door of the gate is not more than 900 mm; The weight of the gate canvas does not exceed 25 kg.

The thickness of the partition with the door in this case will be equipped with a reliable mounting cabinet and guide profiles, which, in turn, must be fixed inserts to coating in a region of no more than 100 mm from the hole.

Above the door, the gear profile records the bar, which increases the rigidity of the entire design of the door frame. There must be 1-2 intermediate points between the crossbar and the upper conductor.

There are three ways to cross the door.

Method 1. In the PN profile section, which is equal to the length of the door width plus 60 mm, the scissors perform cuts with a depth of 30 mm.

The profile is then bent at an angle of 90 ° (Fig. 2, a).

How to make the door in the wall

The training portion is fixed with a self-tapping screw on the profile of the PS door profile (Fig. 2, b). Fastening the sides of the tape is performed on the shelves and in the folded back.

Method 2..

On the shelves, make scissors at an angle of 45 ° and bend the back. FIG. 2, C shows a rack on the door with the roof, the shelves are cut into 45 ° and bent back at an angle of 90 °. Fastening the rod to the stand is performed at four points - two on the curved part and two on the bridge itself. This means only eight jumpers for jumpers.

Method 3.. The bridge over the door frame is made of the length of the guide guide profile PN along the length of the door width plus about 200 mm.

Taking into account the width of the hole on the profile, the scissors cut the shelves on the back and bend the end at an angle of 90 ° (Fig. 2, d). Secure the prepared jumper with bolts through the curved rear part (Fig. 2, D). To improve, insert the cross section of the Mo cross section into the corners of the wooden rods and fix them on both sides by the screws instead of the wrinkle profile (Fig. 3a).

This will ensure the reliability of the model. Inserting rods in the corners is knowledge of Russian masters, such information is not available in the technical instructions of the manufacturers of plasterboard.

If one of the above conditions exceeds the norm, the frame frame, which forms a hole, should be strengthened. Rigips and the German company KNAUF (from the point of view of the main company in Germany) recommend using reinforced UA 2 mm thick profiles.

Their width corresponds to standard CW / UW wall profiles - 50.75 and 100 mm. UA profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling by means of connecting angles.

2. Production and fastening of transverse wires on the door:

a - the manufacture of transverse sidewall (the rear plate is cut and bent at an angle of 90 °); b - rods with side walls (the backs are cut and bent at an angle of 90 °) inside the partition; V - Opening the inlet door with an angular angle and a side wall door (the flange is cut at an angle of 45 °, the back is bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - SS profile, 2 - profile PN 3 - crossbar 4 - LN9 screw, 5 - insertion angle For the bottom door frame, 6 is an angular angle for the top door frame; G is a cross-section with a side wall (angle of rotation of 90 °, curved back at an angle of 90 °): 1 - front, 2 - door, 3 - screw LN9; D - Door frame door with angular angles and side walls (rack at an angle of 90 °, the back is bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - the lower part of the rail 2 - the upper guide 3 - the front door frame, 4 - insert for the door Lower edge, 5 - Corner inserts for the top of the door, B - rods.

The angles are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels and are connected to a reinforced profile using a M8 pin with a washer and a nut.

In practice, this multiplication is performed either when the wooden beam is pressed, followed by fastening screws (see Fig. 3a, b), or by installing an additional profile (Fig. 3c).

The maximum weight of the gate canvas depends on the selected profile. According to German and Austrian standards in the CW50 profile, you can adjust the weight of the gate of 30 kg, within the CW75 profile - weighs 40 kg, the CW100 frame profile - weighs 49 kg.

When using a reinforced UA profile (thickness 2 mm), the weight of the door leaf door for wall mounting increases to the UA50 - 50 kg profile, for the UA75 profile - 75 kg, for the UA100 profile - 100 kg.

Window openings and niches on partitions are enhanced by gaskets in accordance with the same principle as the door.

The manufacture of the door in the frame area near the wall, which is distinguished by the barrier, does not differ from above. Mark the floor tracks to the ceiling on the guide profile, which will be attached to the base wall. Then add the length of a shorter part of the partition on each side and cover the excess with sharp scissors.

On the floor lines and ceiling, profile rails are cut on the back, and the corners of the angles are slightly cut in these places, so that they do not interfere with bending. Profile ends are made in accordance with the markings at an angle of 90 °. Align the lead profile with nails with guide and design level (Fig. 4).