How to build a new bath. Stages of building a bath: from foundation to interior decoration

How beneficial the bath is, it doesn't take long to paint. And not only for physical and mental health. To have a bathhouse on the site is to gain prestige and respect from neighbors. And the opportunity to invite a useful person to take a steam bath will bring direct benefits. Let's be realistic, many important issues are being decided in the bathhouse, and a document is being signed at the conference table. There is no need to look for corruption schemes here: after the bathhouse, it brightens in the head, unnecessary husks fade away, and the essence of the matter comes out. Villains, by the way, do not appoint a "shooter" in the bathhouse, there the conscience awakens.

This article is devoted to the question of how to build a bath with your own hands. Who said that only the powerful of this world have the right to the complete blessing of the bath? But why, one wonders, build yourself? The structure seems to be unpretentious, in demand. Maybe it's better to order on a turnkey basis?

It's all about being in demand. Combined with a little circumstance: the bath is not an essential or vital object. Hence, the contractor's wrapping is limited only to the contents of the customer's pocket, as for luxury goods. What builders use - the market is the market, they also need to live, and they want better.

Take a look at fig. The bathhouse on the left will cost about $ 8000 on a turnkey basis, and the one on the right - at $ 23,000-25,000. Impressive? We will modestly keep silent about 2-3-storey saunas with pools, billiard rooms, banquet halls and massage rooms. And if you build yourself? Self-construction of a bathhouse for 2 compartments of 3x4 m from a bar (this is the one on the left) will cost about $ 1800, and a 4x6 m log cabin of 3 branches will cost about $ 4000-5000. It is impressive, however, the difference is not only at times, but also fundamental: if the turnkey sums do not fit into the average budget, then the squatter has already been able to do it without an overwhelming consumer credit. a mortgage with a lower rate for the bath will not be given now.

The purpose of this article is first of all to show: the devil is not so terrible as he is painted. The bathhouse is a serious building, it must meet certain requirements. And the emphasis in the following is made on how to satisfy them without mastering complex technologies and not spending excessively. If you know how to cut the board straight, drill a hole straight, drive a nail without bending, and after reading the rest, believe that building a bath is within your power and resources, we will consider our task completed. Therefore, the material is built for a more complete coverage of the key points, but due attention has been paid to the peculiarities of the technology of building baths from various materials.

Russian or sauna?

The Finns themselves, and the doctors too, admit that the Russian bath is superior to the Finnish one. In a Russian bath you can create perfectly dry steam, like in a sauna, but you won't be able to "burn" in the last vigorous steam. But the sauna has a valuable advantage - it is not very demanding on the design of a bath room with a heat source. A compact electric sauna the size of a wardrobe can be put in a city apartment, and nothing, normal steam there. But the Russian requires a separate bathhouse and a stove for it. Therefore, further we will talk about the Russian bath, and we will leave the saunas for another case.

Ancestor

The original Russian bath consists of 2 sections: a dressing room and a steam room, see fig. on right; sizes - from 2.3x4 to 5x6 m. The fashion for such baths is now reviving, they are called wild baths. Indispensable features of the "wild" Russian bath:

• The foundation is not buried from natural (also wild) boulders, without a basement.
• The structure is a blockhouse made of selectively chopped wild logs, i.e. which have not undergone any technical processing, except debarking and drying.
• Construction - without a single nail.
• Cauliflower - only with moss and tow.
• The ceiling is flat (see below).
• Floor and ceiling insulation - moss and peat.
• Waterproofing - resin or boot var.
• The roof is shingle or turf.
• The oven is brick.

It is not hard to guess what these archaisms are worth in our time. Turnkey wild bath for less than 1 million rubles. - a marvel. In addition, it is fire hazardous; peat, moss and wood not impregnated with fire retardants are combustible materials. But then we will see how to build a cheaper and simpler safe sauna on our own, not inferior to the original one. First, modern materials and technologies will help; besides the traditional tree, unexpected solutions are possible. Secondly, in the old days, bath stoves were built from bricks only in the absence of suitable metal ones. In fact, a stainless steel stove with an afterburner, an air convector and a properly arranged sauna heater is better in every way. So, to the point. The action plan is as follows:

1. Reconnaissance with surveys - we see if it is possible to put a bathhouse on the site, where exactly, what size and layout;
2. The choice of material for construction;
3. Design and project approval;
4. Construction and equipment, from foundation and drain to furnace installation.

Project

You should dwell on the project immediately. The procedure for its approval is the same as for other non-residential buildings. However, it is not recommended to start a squatter and legalize it later. The bathhouse is not an essential building. If, after its construction, harmful neighbors complained like: “And we have a stinking carrot from the garden like they built a bathhouse!”, Then it will be very problematic and expensive to prove your own. On the other hand, for the same reasons (uninhabited, not vital) the dreary walking through the authorities is simplified and facilitated. Based on this, 3 options are possible:

• Order a turnkey project from local designers, i.e. already approved and tied to the place, it will cost up to 5,000 rubles for a small bath. + state duties and fees;
• Designing yourself is undesirable, without being a builder, you will get confused, and in the organs of arrogant amateurs are not favored;
• Download the finished sketch from the Internet, i.e. not tied to the locality, the project, and tie it to yourself.

The last option is optimal if you are not afraid to sit under the offices for 5,000 savings. He has, so to speak, a sub-option - to give the downloaded sketch to the designers for binding and design. In this case, the savings are cut in half or three times, but walking is on their soul, and she is there like a fish in water. You just have to choose a suitable building, estimate its location, make a copy from the home ownership plan and show the designer where the bathhouse will be. However, you should not download the first beautiful 3D picture you like with some schemes, you need to check that the bath project contains at least the following sheets:

1. Floor plan with the necessary sections and explication (technical description) of the premises, like the one in Fig. below;
2. A summary sheet of the required materials, and then keep the receipts on them, so that if something happens, show - not built from stolen;
3. Recommended type of foundation and its plan.

An important point in a building permit is the consent of the neighbors. This is not an IOU, other laws apply here. A simple piece of paper with a signature as an argument will not work, but if there is a stamp “Approved” and a visa on it and other sheets, then the conversation with that neighbor is short: “Do you see the seal on your squiggle? Yes? So you went to your garden to pick carrots.

And yet such a mum-a-lazy remark. It is not necessary to count nails one by one and measure out according to the project, where to hit. Builders are well aware that deviation from the project is far from the same as squatter construction. Therefore, having an approved project, more or less experienced developers build, if only it looks like it, and then suddenly something will settle down. The number of storeys, the dimensions in the plan, the location of the load-bearing walls (in a small bath there are already 4 of them), the material from which it is built - wood, wood, brick, so brick - and the foundation, its type and material should coincide. The rest, if we are talking about a bath, will no longer be a violation, but a deviation from the project, which can be solved. Any foreman on this topic will tell such stories - you will marvel and laugh.

Note: the question may arise - what kind of liberalism to deviations? It's about mother earth, they are building on it, and it is still impossible to predict exactly how it will behave. Therefore, they give free rein to the grated builders, so that at their own risk they can decide on the spot according to the circumstances - how to build, so that it will stand.

Location, size, layout

The requirements for the location of the bath on the site are shown in Fig. on right. Of these, when approving, they look especially strictly at the distances to the water supply source, home, and drain from the borders with neighbors. They should be followed with a margin, with the priority of water supply being the highest. If, for example, according to local conditions, it is necessary to take the distance from a well or a well from 30 m to the nearest sources of pollution (and the bath is one of those), then we take this or another large value. The same applies to the distance to neighbors, carrots can really smell from the bath runoff.

Other requirements are flexible enough based on local conditions. For example, the distance to the house is taken so that seepage from the bath drain does not undermine the foundation. If the bathhouse is lower down the slope, and the underground drain is directed from the house to it, then it is possible to keep within 5-7 m, then only according to the results of on-site surveys.

A lot of "creak" when approving bath projects is caused by the orientation of the entrance not to the south. There is already a medical reason: suddenly, the steamed one will come out into the cutting north wind, not long before pneumonia. But, say, in the Ciscaucasia, the worst wind in winter is just the southern one, the so-called. similar to the mountains, but in the wind rose in the north there is a dip, so in this case the orientation of the entrance to the bath can be opposite to the typical one. Well, it doesn't matter where the window is looking. If you want to admire the sewer hatch while washing, it's up to you.

On an ordinary personal plot, the very possibility of building a bath can be solved by a meter and a half of its size. In such a case, we give informal norms of the area for 1 washable: 1.5 sq. m of dressing room and 1 sq. m washing (shower). That is, a fairly comfortable home bath is possible in sizes from 3x4 m.Examples of layouts of such baths are shown in Fig. below, with a separate steam room combined with a washing room. Their peculiarity is that the front door can be on any of the walls of the dressing room, which facilitates the location of the bath on the site.

You should stay in the steam room especially. The fact is that the general state of health of modern citizens often simply does not allow them to take a steam bath. In this case, a 3-section sauna with a separate steam room is required. In 3x4 m, such a layout can be laid, on the right in Fig. with plans, but then there is a problem of heating the shower in cold weather. It is irrational to let the shower warm up, wasting hot water in vain, there is so little of it in the hot water heater, and there is no place for a separate stove in the shower.

A way out can be found by deviating from the bath-planning traditions, especially if the area available for construction allows to increase its size. For example, in fig. - bath layout from 3x5 to 4x6 m with a small dressing room, in fact, a dressing room.

A large washing room is heated either by a separate stove (indicated by?; A simple home-made stove or something like that will do here), or by a stream of air from part of the convector of a modern sauna stove in a steam room. In the latter case, 2 solutions are possible: either non-combustible partitions and part of the air convector goes into the washing room, as in the figure, or the intake of cold air above the floor of the washing room and supplying it heated under the ceiling using tin boxes or metal corrugations. Due to the presence of the vestibule, the general entrance can be oriented as you like, and for those who like to bite into a fresh snowball or a pool in the steam room there is a separate exit.

Note: about the second sign? in fig. and drain with drain see below.

Materials

The choice of material for building a bath is primarily due to the physical processes in it. More precisely, our ancestors, based on the availability and medical and hygienic requirements, understood at that time intuitively, but rightly, came up with the design of the bath building. Therefore, it turned out to be quite conservative and tightly tied to the tree. Wooden buildings require very high craftsmanship and long technological breaks for shrinkage and their own shrinkage, if inexpensive timber is used. It is possible to find a replacement for wood with a bath, for example. the foam blocks considered below or wood concrete, or sawdust concrete. Therefore, before choosing a material, let's see what kind of physics works in the bath.

Bath physics

First, the bath is not constantly heated, the heated one gets very hot, and when washed it damp. Second - during heating, the sauna stove must first give a powerful stream of thermal (IR, infrared) radiation, which will heat the walls and be absorbed by them, and a little later - a strong stream of heated air, which gives a uniform temperature in the steam room. At the time of washing, the furnace firebox is weakened so that the washable ones do not burn its directional IR. People in the IR bath from the heated walls and the warmth of the air should gently and evenly envelop; this, in addition to air far from being saturated with moisture, is an indispensable condition for light steam.

The lightness or severity of the bath is not so strongly associated with temperature. Steam at 45 degrees can be heavy and at 70 degrees light. The tolerance and benefits of the bath for people of different, as they say, the constitution is expressed by a parameter that can be called the intensity of exposure to steam; among the people it has long been known as the "vigor" of the bath. Also, the classification of baths on this basis has long been developed:

• Lightweight, for women and children - from a linden forest, the heat capacity of the walls is small, the IR from them quickly "exhales" and the washable ones are warmed with more air.
• Plain, or condo - traditionally from a coniferous forest. Heating the IK from the walls and with air approximately equally, depending on the mode of the furnace, is suitable for almost everyone. It can be built from any materials suitable for a bath.
• Vigorous - from thick oak logs. Thanks to the long and powerful IR from the walls with a high heat capacity of only 50 in the steam room, one sweep with a broom penetrates, as they say, the bones are playing. But it is possible to withstand vigorous steam only with iron health. In general, a vigorous bath is a heroic one, after which, figuratively speaking, it is just right to throw trucks around, grabbing the car by the hitch.

Light baths were built by the rich more for wives, daughters and other women dear to them: a light bath has a beneficial effect on women's health and allows you to preserve beauty for a long time; both sexes add sexual activity. Dear Russian cocottes of the past certainly, before accepting, let their visitors through a light bathhouse, long before the Russian word for their profession became indecent.

However, linden timber was expensive in the old days. Nowadays, all the age-old lime-trees are under protection, and there is no harvesting of lime-based commercial timber. Nevertheless, the properties are close to a light lime bath made of foam blocks and a frame, which will be described in more detail below. They are the cheapest and easiest to build. But it is categorically contraindicated to ride after a light bath in the snow or to dangle in an ice-hole. Even before leaving it on the street, you need to cool down in a warm dressing room, and then, having dressed warmly, quickly sneak into the house.

A vigorous bath, on the contrary, is very expensive and difficult, because it can only be built from logs of the highest quality. Longitudinal hollows between the crown of the log house act as catchers of the initial IR furnace, driving heat into the walls; timber walls absorb IR not so greedily. The same applies to any log baths, so the "almost vigorous" bath can be built from pine logs with a diameter of 200 mm. We will further focus on "normal" kondova baths, as the most versatile and affordable.

Selection and rejection

The best material for a bath is wood, because it was created for him. We will talk about foam blocks and other suitable materials further when describing baths from them, because they go into action immediately without rejection. This cannot be said about wood: the one that is quite suitable for the house may not last for a long time in the bath due to the specific conditions described above.

Note: a brick bath is inferior to a wooden one in all respects, except for one - a large one, from 70-100 sq. m in plan, a brick bath building will be cheaper than a wooden one, and its bathing qualities with such a large building volume will become acceptable. Therefore, brick baths have been and are being built mainly by large public ones.

The best tree for a bath is larch, and for a vigorous one is bog oak, but both are expensive. Most often, baths are built from pine or spruce wood after preliminary screening of lumber. The first thing you should pay attention to is the complete absence of cracks (pos. 1 in the figure), then wormholes, pos. 2 and blue, blackness, etc. signs of decay, pp. 2 and 3. Blue usually accompanies wormholes (pos. 2), but it can also appear as separate spots, pos. 3. The third sign of unconditional rejection of this piece is knots falling out. If the forest is conditioned, the selection criteria come into force.

Tar and dry chip

Coniferous timber, especially pine, has 2 varieties - tar and dried wood. The second is an ordinary timber cut in blocks. The first one is saturated with resin, it smells strongly of it, if you run your finger along the saw cut, it sticks and gets dirty. Smolka is expensive because trees on it are chopped selectively during sap flow, which is by no means useful for the forest as a whole. Nevertheless, building a bathhouse from logs or timber, it is worth spending money on tar for 2-3 lower crowns: it does not rot at all, but under the influence of moisture it turns to stone, turning into a kind of bog oak. For a frame bath, it is also advisable to take a bar of the lower strapping (bearing belt) with resin. And one more thing: on the rough floor of any bath, it is very, very desirable to buy much less expensive semi-finished products and waste sawing tar with wane, first of all - the cheapest croaker, see fig. You will have to sweat more, debarking and adjusting, but the floor will come out forever and inexpensively.

Note: Predatory felling is still practiced in some places, when trees are cut quarterly all year round. Neighboring bathhouse builders benefit from this - tar can be taken directly from the timber yard cheaper than then a dry chip from the distributor's warehouse. But for nature, such an approach is nowhere worse, and you need to be able to assess raw wood by eye for warpage during drying, see below, about the timber.

Impregnation

All lumber for building a bath must be impregnated with antiseptics, biocides and fire retardants. In addition to tar, it doesn’t rot anyway, it won’t accept any impregnation, and once it is petrified, it will become very badly combustible. Impregnations for wood are sold separately, i.e., if it is cheaper that way, then you can buy inexpensive untreated wood and process it yourself.

Impregnating materials for timber are made on the basis of refined mineral oils and / or silicone. You can find recommendations to replace them with working off or fresh engine oil, but it is not necessary. Machine oils contain additives that are useful for machinery, not people. In the bath, they will inevitably get into the air and soak you through your steamed skin.

Logs

Raw, i.e. wild logs are rarely sold now - it is more profitable to dissolve them into measured material, and the waste will go to business, for cellulose, etc. There are companies that trade in wild wood, but the choice is my respect. Therefore, suddenly, after reading the rest, you intend to build a log bath, then you will have to buy rounded logs.

The first selection criterion - the log should be solid chamber drying; this is a very expensive material. Glued imitation, pos. 1 in the figure, will be great for a residential building, but not for a bath, because due to different warping of the lamellas (fragments from which the log is glued) in the bathing conditions, they will soon split and rot with any impregnation.

The second point is cracks. T. called. healthy radial cracks, pos. 2, in the log cabins of residential buildings are quite acceptable, but in the bath they will become condensate collectors with everything that comes with it; naturally air-dried logs cannot exist without them, therefore, as mentioned above, only chamber ones are suitable. For the same reason, the profile of the log should not have upward-facing recesses, pos. 3. From logs of the Finnish profile and any of its modifications excellent houses are obtained, but baths are not built from them.

The log for the bath should be with the usual so-called. lunar groove, pos. 4 facing down. To do this, during construction, you need to choose a suitable cut-out scheme, see below. The best standard sizes for a bath are 190 or 210, marked in Fig. If a bathhouse is being built "more vigorously" from pine logs, then, in addition to the increased diameter, it is necessary to choose logs with a dark core and light sapwood, on the right in Fig. Logs with dark and light belts of growth rings will be scattered into a regular bath.

Note: if the "vigor" of the bath does not matter much, then logs can be taken of a slightly different diameter. When cutting into a block (this is the best way for a small bath, see below), a completely suitable frame is obtained from different-sized logs, see Fig. left.

Bar

A log bath will cost much less than a log bath and, in appearance, fits well into a suburban residential development, see Fig. The cheapest and easiest way is to build it from a conventional clean-cut timber (rectangular in cross section). The criteria for its rejection are the same as for logs, but a check for evenness is added.

It seems that now there is no simple bar of chamber drying at all - it is unprofitable. And the air-dried bar is all warped to one degree or another. In general, this is not scary, in the construction of a log house they always provide for a technological break for shrinkage and the tree's own shrinkage. During it, the bars will lie against each other and become cemented, as they say, they will live with caulking from an almost solid mass.

However, the shrinkage of the tree is not unlimited and if the timber was dried incorrectly, it may turn out to be excessively warped, and the frame from it will remain with cracks. There are 2 options for purchasing: either from a trusted supplier according to the live recommendations of reliable people, or with an inspection of the stack in the warehouse by an invited specialist - a carpenter, furniture maker, forestry technician, etc. unfortunately not possible.

A beam for the construction of a bath "under a log"

It is very attractive, but requires a particularly careful rejection of the tree, the construction of a timber bath from a three-edged bar with wane (pos. 1 in the figure on the right) or a 2-edged, also semi-edged sleeper, pos. 2.

These are semi-finished products, i.e. are inexpensive. Cutting them is not much more complicated than a simple bar and may well be done by a non-carpenter. But it is possible to build a bathhouse from such a bar that looks very similar to a "steep" log one, and in terms of properties - with an intensive firebox close to vigorous.

As for the profiled timber, it is, firstly, expensive. Then, glued beams should not be allowed into the bath, for the same reasons as imitation of a log, pos. 2 in Fig. A one-piece chamber beam is even more expensive, and only one selected entirely from the kernel (pos. 1) or sapwood will go to the bath. If you can see both at once on the saw cut of the bar, it will split in the bathhouse structure. Finally, in the profile of the beam, as in the logs for the bath, there should be no notches facing up, pos. 4. All this turns the choice into a living hell, especially since the sellers, knowing that their product is quite good at home, do not understand such fastidiousness.

More about brick

Suddenly you want to build a brick bath, keep in mind that the brick for it is also subject to rejection. For the bath, you need a heavy and dark, low-porous, or moderately, without warping and swelling, burnt iron ore, or clinker. A beautiful face brick of dry or semi-dry molding is definitely not suitable.

Building

Well, we will assume that we have passed the difficult and crucial stage of selection and rejection of material. In the end, the cost of it only needs time, knowledge and attention. Now - we are building a bath! There is a lot to look out for here, besides the usual construction work steps. In general, the sequence for building a bath is as follows:

1. Foundation;
2. Underfloor insulation and drainage equipment;
3. For frame baths - frame;
4. For them - a technological break for 2-6 months. to shrink the frame;
5. Walls;
6. For log and log baths - log caulking;
7. For them, made of air-dried materials (non-profiled timber, wild and debarked non-cylindrical logs) - technical break for 6-18 months. for shrinkage / shrinkage of the log house;
8. Openings, doors, windows;
9. Ceiling;
10. Roof;
11. Interior arrangement and, mainly, installation of the stove.

Foundation

In the old days, the baths were placed on an unburied foundation made of boulders (item 1 in the figure), this made it possible to reduce the processing of the lower crown logs to a minimum. For this, something like a lodgement or centers was collected from wild stones, in which round logs did not roll. At the corners, large boulders with crisscrossing natural hollows were especially prized; these are the very cornerstones. The original meaning of this term is now forgotten. The boulder foundation under the bath can be laid even today, but, alas, the wild stone is now far from waste material.

Note: don't be surprised at the mention of cornerstones in the Bible and the Gospel. The now almost treeless Levant was then rich in excellent cedar wood. It was enough for both buildings and fleets. What was King Solomon's palace built of? "Thanks" to the high value of the Lebanese cedar, now it is almost gone.

A full replacement for boulder - shallow or shallow, pos. 2. The first one is suitable for any wooden bath, and the second - for a foam block. In terms of complexity and laboriousness, the establishment of both is available to novice builders, and at a price - for a family budget below average. There is only one drawback: not suitable on unreliable soils. These include:

• Medium loamy is closer to strongly loamy and strongly loamy (heaving is over 6-7% by volume) - small silty sandy loam, dense loam, plump clays, etc.
• Subsidence category II, over 5% by volume - loose loess-like and clayey.
• Weak, with a bearing capacity of less than 1.7 kg / sq. cm - humus, silty, peaty, loose sandy loam.

In places with a stable positive winter and a low probability of freezing of the runoff, an excellent, simple and cheap option for the foundation for a wooden bath is a columnar, not buried, from ready-made blocks 200x200x400, pos. 3. A conscientious and attentive office city dweller, undertaking to build, can lay it down over the weekend.

On a slope, which is very good for a drainage device, and on unreliable soils, a bath can be placed on a columnar foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes, pos. 4. For a wooden structure, it is approximately equal to the belt one in terms of cost and labor intensity. Insulation of the subfloor in places with frosty winters increases both only slightly. Under a bath made of foam blocks or bricks, the heads of the posts will have to be tied with round beams or grillage, pos. 5, this is already a rather complicated and expensive process, especially the imposition of the grillage. However, for baths, you can most often do with randbalk.

Finally, the pile-grillage foundation, pos. 6. It can be welded metal, both in the figure, and concrete on bored piles. Both are quite difficult and expensive, and a high-quality metal pile foundation also requires special equipment.

Pile foundations are laid under buildings on soils, as they say, none: silty, peaty, weak, heavily watered; in general, "in the swamp". A bathhouse is not placed on rotten wet soil, but the laying of a pile foundation under it is justified in special cases.

For example, the author had a chance to take a steam bath in a vigorous sauna on a steep river above the river. A platform protruded above the whirlpool, and a ladder went straight into the water from it. Springs gushed from the bottom there - in summer the water was icy, and in winter there was a hole. Feelings - unspeakable, if they are soaring in paradise, then it is exactly this and not otherwise. But it is possible to build in such a place only on piles, otherwise in a year or two the earth will creep, and the bathhouse will only gurgle or float, swaying. It is for such exclusives that the pile foundation for the bathhouse is intended.

Insulation and lathing for walls

Before building any bath, on any foundation, except for boulder, you need to apply double waterproofing made of bitumen and roofing material, see Fig. It is applied after the foundation has gained strength, except for metal welded.

If a wooden bath is being built on a strip foundation, then before laying the 1st crown of a log house or the lower belt of the frame on the tape, 30x30 mm or 40x40 mm slats are laid out on the insulation, as shown in Fig. left; with high-quality lumber, you can get by with thick, from 10 mm, shit. The purpose of this lathing is to prevent wood from rotting from underneath due to capillary locking. The remaining gap is then caulked along with the walls.

Note: no anchor bolts or the like in any case. no need to attach the walls to the foundation. With thermal shocks that the structure of the bath experiences, there will be no benefit from them, except harm.

Floor and drain

The floor and drain of the bath are inextricably linked and therefore considered together. Together they make up the most complex and critical structural unit of the bath, which largely determines its operational and sanitary and hygienic qualities.

In the old baths, the runoff went directly to the ground through the crevice floor. Nowadays it is forbidden to dump any wastewater onto the surface of the ground, but the crevice floor of the steam room / washing room is quite appropriate, see below.

The drain from the bath can be arranged scattered, across the entire surface of the floor, or point (concentrated) through the grate (ladder) in the floor. The first, as we will see below, is more complicated, but much more hygienic. A point drain is most often done if the drain pit is under the floor. This saves space and the amount of earthwork, but sanitation and hygiene - by 3 minus. In addition, there are no drain pits that do not require cleaning and pumping at all, and in this case, you will need to break the floor for plumbing. An additional minus - due to the infiltration of wastewater directly under the building, the bathhouse will sooner or later "lead".

As an argument in favor of a hole under the floor, they often say that it will not freeze. And, sorry, are you heating your bath all winter? If you can afford it, then why the squatter? Order a turnkey sauna and take a steam bath. Unfortunately, there is no reason to add "health", since the hole is under the floor. The way to protect any sewage pit from freezing has been known for a long time: it is a wooden cover 30-40 cm under the inspection hatch. The drain from the bath is warm and, under a double lid, will have time to soak into the soil before the most severe frost reaches it.

Note: sometimes they also say, they say, you need to put a gas-tight cover on the pit under the bath. Pure curiosity in the spirit of black humor - any sealed sewer once explodes like a poorly sterilized jar with home preservation. In the bathhouse - mainly during washing, because a thermal shock during heating will play the role of an initiator.

The device of the diffused drain from the bath, it is clear from pos. 1 fig. It is highly desirable to equip the concrete drain with a homemade water seal, pos. 2, this will ensure that the bath meets the most stringent sanitary requirements. The concrete on the screed is taken waterproof; with self-mixing, a water-polymer emulsion is added to the water at the rate of 200 ml per 10 l, and the hardened and gaining strength screed is treated with bitumen mastic. This should be done in the warm season, and before laying the floor, give a technical break for 5-7 days.

The bathhouse must have a separate drainage pit. Bath runoff is large for domestic sewage and salvo, but much cleaner than kitchen gray, not to mention fecal from, and contains a little fat. If you run the bath drain into the general, correctly calculated and constructed, then it will choke, and the active bacteria in it will die. If you build a large and expensive septic tank based on a salvo discharge, then the usual runoff for bacteria will not be enough for food, the activated sludge will acidify, and the sewage system will stop working again. A drain hole is dug at the rate of 50-100 liters per 1 washable one to a depth of at least 30 cm below the calculated (standard) freezing depth, provided that it is buried in the mainland (under the fertile layer) soil by at least 1.2 m. In most regions RF, these conditions are maintained when the drain is deepened by 1.6-1.8 m.

The simplest and cheapest drain pit is obtained from car tires in a clay castle, pos. 3. But sewage water will inevitably stagnate in its side pockets, and you will have to disinfect such a pit much more often. Bearing in mind the future costs of antiseptics, cleaning and pumping, it turns out to be more profitable to buy a pair of (60-70) cm concrete or plastic rings for wells. These are the smallest and cheapest well rings. Their height is standard - 90 cm; 2 pieces are just enough. With a diameter of 0.7 m inside, the volume of the pit is sufficient for 5-6 washable.

Suddenly, the pit is still under the floor (maybe there is simply no room for the outside on the site), then the bath can be used no more than once a week. In this case, point drainage will be cheaper, and its complex and expensive concrete catcher under the floor can be replaced with an overturned low wooden tent. Then, around the mouth of the pit, it is necessary to apply high-quality waterproofing with a removal of at least 0.5 m beyond the contour of the drain grate, pos. 4. However, this is also a bad way out: water will leak under the insulation anyway, and what kind of biocenosis will develop there, it is better not to think about it. At least before eating.

Floor

The floor of the bath must, firstly, provide a quick and complete drain of water, without decaying itself. Secondly, to provide sufficient insulation and guarantee from drafts from below, provided that it is impossible to clog the subfloor with thermal insulation, you will have to limit yourself to backfilling with expanded clay. For this, the floor of the bath is made floating, pos. 1 in the figure, i.e. not rigidly connected with the building structure. Lay the floor on the joists; their ends in the log wall are inserted into the cutouts of the lower crown, pos. 2. In a log bath, the ends of the logs are tied with crossbars to form a solid lattice, and in a frame house, as in a frame house, the floor logs together in the lower belt form the main supporting frame.

The step of the lag is 40-60 cm. Their height is 100-120 mm for a span of up to 4 m and 150 mm for a span of 4-5 m. With a larger span, intermediate posts or inner sections of the tape must be provided in the foundation. The thickness of the lag is taken approximately 1/50 of the span length, i.e. 60 mm for 3 m, 80 mm for 4 m, etc.

In the intervals between the lags, the croaker is laid with the convex side up. Because slab boards taper to one end, they are laid alternately with a narrow end in one direction or the other. Gaps of 5 mm are left between the boards, the same pos. 2 in Fig. This design does not impede drainage, to some extent improves thermal insulation, and together with the finished floor boards laid across the humpbacks, it protects against drafts.

On the logs and rough flooring from the slab, it is very, very desirable to take tar pine. To reduce the cost of the floor, the logs can be made from a 3-edged bar or a half-edged sleeper opened in two, see above. But then they will have to be trimmed from the side of the wane, so that the base for the final floor is even and horizontal.

A finishing floor with a diffused drain is laid from an ordinary planed clean-edged board, preferably tar, with a thickness of 40 mm. Reducing the cost, again, will cost extra work: you can take an uncut and unedged tar board, "bring to mind" yourself on a circular and a planer (the old Soviet desktop UBDS-1 and the like are very convenient for this), and put it on the flooring wane remains down. A clean floor is laid with gaps between the boards of about 5 mm, for water drainage.

To lay a floor with a point drain, first a board made of larch or tar with a drain grate is placed between the logs above the pit or water seal. Lay the floor without gaps, with a cutout above the grate, pos. 3 and 4. The board must be taken not grooved, but with a locking quarter, pos. 5. After a technical break for the shrinkage of the structure, the joints of the boards are poured with liquid nails or rubbed with a waterproof putty on wood.

With all the high cost, complexity and labor intensity, this is far from the best option. On pos. 4 it can be seen that, judging by the general condition of the floor and the grill, the bath is still new, but the floor under the bench has already slipped. Apparently, the dislike of the builders to the scattered runoff through the crevice floor is explained by prejudices and incomplete knowledge of the history of the Russian bath.

Walls and frame

The log sauna looks, of course, gorgeous, see fig. But we will not dwell on them for a long time: these buildings are generally not for beginners. In any case, in order to build the simplest bathhouse, you will need to master 2 difficult technologies - cutting logs with a burr with the rest, pos. And in the figure, and with a paw without a remainder, pos. B-D. The latter, by the way, is technologically simpler, but requires calibrated logs, since the proportions of the marking template (pos. D) are tied to the side of the square inscribed in the diameter of the log, pos. D. In any case, the bottom of the logs of the first crown must be very precisely and evenly hanged, because a boulder foundation that can be adjusted to fit logs is now unrealistic.

Note: cutting into a flash and into a simple bowl (see fig. on the right) is often considered the same working operation, because the configuration of the logs ready for laying in the blockhouse is the same. In fact, when cutting into the bowl, the recesses and grooves turn upward, which is unacceptable for a bath. When cutting into a block, fitted logs are transferred to a frame with a turnover, this complicates and slows down the assembly of a frame on the foundation.

From a bar

It is already quite possible for a beginner to build a bathhouse from a bar: you do not need to choose curved grooves and holes in a tree. It is enough to know how to handle a saw, hammer, chisel and ax. To build a small, up to 4x5 m, bath, you need to master only 3, or only one, simple operation: cutting into half a tree or into ochr with the remainder, or cutting without residue into the paw (at the end); are marked in Fig. "!"

A beam from 100x100 to 250x250 mm will go to the bath. The thicker, the naturally better and more expensive. In general, "hundred parts" will be enough south of Voronezh, 150x150 for the Moscow region, and 200x200 - north of St. Pereburg. For 1-3 lower rims, you need to take a bar one size larger, and again, it is highly desirable, tar.

Actually, the process of assembling a log house without a remainder from a non-profile clean-cut bar (the simplest and cheapest) with a cut into the butt is shown on the trail. fig. First, the ends of the cut-to-size bars are prepared according to the template, pos. 1. If, instead of a timber, there is a semi-edged sleeper (pos. 1a) that is conditioned for a bath (see above), then you can get an almost complete imitation of a log frame.

When assembling the frame, it is necessary to prevent lateral displacement of the beams. The lunar grooves hold a blockhouse of logs, but connections at the corners are not enough for smooth beams. There are 2 possible options. First, pos. 2 is simple, but not the best. nails in a log house will rust. The blockhouse is immediately knocked down tightly, and the caulk tape (see below) is applied immediately. The location and length of the nails are the same as the nails in the trail. option. Nails are needed secret, with a completely recessed head, or a special tool for the hammer - a doboinik; it looks like a center punch with a milled end.

In the 2nd way, pos. 3, the bars are fastened with round blind dowels - pins. Calibrated pins are on sale, it's better to take oak ones. The connection of the crowns with dowels is done as follows:

• The next one is laid on the previous crown.
• Holes are drilled exactly according to the diameter of the dowels through the upper beam to half the height of the lower one.
• Remove the upper crown.
• Lay the caulk tape.
• Insert the pins, piercing the caulk over the nests under them.
• Again, now for good, the upper crown is laid, putting it on the pins.
• The procedure is repeated until the complete assembly of the log house; the pins are staggered, see again pos. 3.

Note: with a span of up to 6 m, it is enough to fasten the beams at the corners, as shown in Fig.

And if the timber is profiled?

One of the reasons why the profile bar was invented is the desire to get rid of the rather laborious and costly fastening with dowels. However, this consideration is not applicable to the bath: profiles that hold each other "ironically" are not suitable for a bath. And for those who will not "catch" condensate, bath temperature deformations will soon break the ridges. Therefore, the blockhouse of a bath from a profiled bar still needs to be fastened.

Cauliflower

Log and squared logs for assembly caulk. The log will require a thorough caulking skill and a complete caulking tool set, see fig.

It is easier to caulk a bar: you will need a curved steel caulk - a lebeza, a narrow wooden straight and a mallet, see fig. below. The sauna blockhouse is caulked in both of the ways shown there: when assembling the log house, a heel is placed between the crowns for caulking, and at the end of the caulking it is finally caulked into a set.

Note: the swan is designed to push the hemp between the logs. From its name comes "fawning" in the sense of rubbing into trust, groveling with thoughts in mind, in general, to crawl under the skin. If you heal jute (see below), and the log house is lumber, you do not need a swan.

It is impossible to do without caulking with waterproofing, even the most modern one: caulking does not just seal the seams, but "coalesces" with the tree into a single array and finally holds the frame. There is no synthetics that can replace it yet.

In the old days, they were caulked with moss in a stretch, and in a set - with an oiled or resinous tow of linen tow. Nowadays, most of all caulk is made with jute fiber, it is almost wood in composition and lignin content. It is better to take jute hemp in the form of a set of tape and cord, see fig. The tape is loose, it is easy to pierce it with a finger under the dowel. They lay the tape when assembling the log house, and then you do not need to fiddle it, after assembling the log house they immediately finish digging it with a cord into the set.

So that the blockhouse does not lead, caulk is strictly in the following sequence: the dull long side of the lower crown inside, then outside, then the same opposite to it. Then - the short sides of the lower crown, starting with the one where there are no openings, also first from the inside, then from the outside. In the same sequence, the remaining crowns are caulked strictly in turn from bottom to top.

Total for cant and log

Rounded logs of chamber drying can be considered a type of profiled timber. A bath made of it and a profiled beam also of chamber drying can be used immediately after construction, because shrinkage and shrinkage of these materials passed during processing; This is the undoubted advantage of "chamber" wood. The cost of 1 sq. m of bath space made of these materials in most regions of the Russian Federation exceeds the cost of a square of living space in new buildings of the middle class.

The most expensive, complex and laborious, but also the most prestigious, will be a log bath. Its bathing qualities are exactly the same as those of a traditional Russian bath. In terms of "steepness" and cost, it is almost equivalent to a log sauna, but technologically it is much simpler and can be supplied by an amateur builder of average skill. In terms of steam quality, a log bath can be made almost indistinguishable from a log bath.

The use of a chamber profiled beam for the construction of a bath can be justified if it is not possible to reject air-dried or raw material individually, for example, in regions where there is no logging of their own and traders flatly refuse to sell ordinary sawn timber selectively. Otherwise, it is possible, using semi-finished products of industrial wood, to put a log bath, and seemingly almost indistinguishable from a log bath.

In general a log or log bath can be recommended for those who are sufficiently wealthy, monitors his health, keeps physical shape, and has already built at least a country house or a barn. If you are not sure that a condo and even more vigorous steam room will benefit you, then it is better to build some of the light baths described below. The same option is shown with a lack of funds and building experience: light baths are simple and inexpensive, and their steam will not harm anyone.

Technical break

After assembling and caulking the log house, it is temporarily sewn up from above with boards, plywood, cardboard, etc., and covered with foil. The film is fixed in any way so as not to be blown off by the wind. The log house is left to dry and sit down for at least six months; best from spring or early summer until next fall. During this time, the tree will not only shrink and shrink, but will also live with caulk.

Openings, doors, windows

The ways of arranging door and window openings in timber baths are mainly used 2. 1st, pos. 1 and 2 in the figure, "for the lazy and uneconomical": only 1 upper beam is selected in size along the width of the opening, and after a technical break, the opening is simply cut out. However, this method is not so wasteful: trimmings can go to the panel ceiling (see below) and certainly - to the internal equipment of the bath, bed, etc. And it will not work out too lazy with this method: in order to avoid a sudden "game" when cutting out a tense after the shrinkage of the log house, the edges of the future opening must be reinforced with dowels when assembling the log house, like corners.

In the 2nd way, pos. 3, the beams are cut to size in advance, and a spike is selected at the ends protruding into the opening. The disadvantage of this method is that special door and window boxes are needed, while in the first method simple frames from boards will go to them. In general, it is better to make openings "in the first place" when the appearance of the bath does not matter much, and "in the second way" - when you want "more abruptly".

Note: from the baths of the mid-budget class, the bar ones are certainly the best. Therefore, we give in addition a video about the details of arranging a bar bath:

Video: building a bath from a bar, the correct device

Wireframe

A frame bath is built as well. Immediately after assembling the frame, rafter beams are placed, and the frame dries / shrinks under its own roof, in the center in Fig. Since the openwork structure is blown by all winds, a minimum technical break for drying / shrinkage is needed. Usually the frame is assembled in the spring, in the same autumn the bath is completed and even before the cold weather they are already steamed.

The second feature is that the finishing floor is laid together with the wall cladding outside, on the right in the figure, in the usual sequence from bottom to top, i.e. starting from the floor. It is not necessary to insulate the walls from the outside, as is sometimes advised. For decorative purposes, something like siding is enough, without laying foam in the crate cells. So it is necessary that the walls are better ventilated. But it is necessary to insulate from the inside thoroughly, as in the foam block bath described below, excluding the underlying plaster.

A frame bath turns out to be the simplest and cheapest, even cheaper than a foam block bath. By the "vigor" of the steam, this bath is only and only light. However, steaming in it in the winter north of Moscow is very problematic: it gives off heat well, and the insulation measures used in frame houses make the steam heavy. In general frame bath - a typical summer weekend bath; especially well serves as a country bath, combined with a utility block.

Note: there are no restrictions on the outer cladding of the frame bath, therefore imitations under a bar, log, etc. are possible.

Foam block

A foam block bath is the only type of bath structure in our time that allows you to put a light bath in any climate due to the high heat-insulating properties of the wall material. Aerated concrete baths can also be considered the cheapest and simplest technologically: their cost is lower than that of a bar-shaped one, by 25-30%, and even up to 50%, see below. The number of operations of measurement and precise adjustment during construction in a foam block bath is several times less than in a frame bath, and it is not at all required to form curved surfaces in the material.

It is also important that, with a generally significant expenditure of working time, little physical effort is required when building a bath from foam blocks. There is no need to wave a saw and an ax all the time; in general, the construction technique is set, attached, nailed. For townspeople who are not used to physical labor, this circumstance can be decisive. And for summer residents - the fact that the technical break during construction is needed is minimal, for the curing of mortars. In a typical summer, a week is enough for this, and next weekend you can continue construction. Which, working on weekends together or three, can, starting in April, be completed by July and still have a good time before winter.

The foam concrete from which the foam blocks are made is a light material, it floats in water. Therefore, on stable and well-bearing soils, the construction of a foam block bath can be further simplified and made cheaper. In general, a strip foundation is recommended for a foam block bath, pos. 1 in fig. But on reliable soils, it can be replaced with an unburied columnar made of ready-made concrete blocks, as for a frame bath, and the walls can be erected on a frame made of a bar from 200x200 to 300x300, impregnated with an antiseptic, a water repellent and covered with waterproofing, like a concrete tape.

However, the lightness and, especially, the porosity of aerated concrete set the same labor during construction; true, not difficult and uncomplicated. It is especially necessary to protect the walls from locking from the inside and outside: it dampens the aerated concrete not only easily, but downright pleasure, but it dries very hard and for a long time. Therefore, looking ahead, we will immediately say that, having covered the roof, the bath must be surrounded by a ventilated facade with a gap of about 5 cm.With any other method of external insulation / insulation, the dew point entering the porous wall greedily absorbing moisture is inevitable.

Further, when erecting walls, pos. 2, only the first 2-3 rows are placed on a regular cement-sand mortar, and then they switch to a special glue for aerated concrete, it looks like a regular masonry mortar. Here the lightness of the material already plays a role: the cement masonry joint, being weakly loaded, does not resist shear loads very well, and the wind can simply fill up the structure.

The most features relate to internal insulation. It is produced in the following order:

1. Walls with waterproof plaster (lime; water-polymer emulsion is added to the solution water);
2. On completely dried plaster, paint with water-repellent paint, preferably polymer facade paint, in extreme cases - iron red lead, zinc or titanium white;
3. On the dried paint, waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, securing it with horizontal slats;
4. Mats of long-fiber mineral wool are placed between the slats, pos. 3;
5. Mineral insulation is sheathed with rolled foil on 2 sides with glass wool, also long-fiber, pos. 4 and 4a, with an overlap of 25 cm;
6. Vertical slats are stuffed on foil insulation and the inner lining is already led along them;
7. Upon completion of finishing and installation of doors / windows, all cracks are carefully foamed, pos. 5: foam concrete doesn't care where to block it, moisture spreads in it instantly. A cloud escaping from the steam room into the dressing room can destroy the bath.

And again, looking ahead, but not by much: due to the peculiarities of the building, visible in pos. 1, the ceiling in a foam block bath is made only hemmed.

Ceiling

The ceiling of the bath is made flat, hemmed or panel board. The first is the original ceiling of a small Russian bath. For its construction, an established log house is sewn up from above with boards, the cracks are caulked with moss into a set from the attic side and poured with resin. Then the rafter beams are applied (see below, about the roof) and the gaps between them are covered with peat; sometimes the entire ceiling is tarred before backfilling. The floor of the attic is either being laid or not. Now, of course, it is better to caulk it with jute, cover the flooring with waterproofing before installing the beams, and insulate it with long-fiber mineral wool.

The false ceiling, see fig., Is suitable for any bath, because it is stronger - the ceiling beams are at the same time the rafters, moreover, they are mechanically connected to the frame / structure. The panel ceiling is a combination of a floor ceiling with a hemmed ceiling: a shield with insulation and insulation is assembled on the ground, and then, using a crowd, or a crane, or a mini-excavator manipulator, they put it on the frame. The panel ceiling is good because it can be "blind" from scraps, but it is only suitable for a timber bath up to 4x5 m in size.

Roof

A gable roof is suitable for any of the described baths. Roof trusses are simple triangles with one gusset bar, in the center in the figure:

The gables are sewn up with boards; be sure to need dormer windows that can be opened for the summer and for the duration of use + an hour and a half after it in winter. Hanging rafters are suitable for a log bath, on the left in the figure, for the rest - a complete truss with a screed beam, on the right in the same place. The lathing for the roof deck is sparse, with slots from 30 mm, for ventilation. The flooring itself is any, except for iron, it does not hold heat well and quickly rusts in the bath.

Arrangement

The requirements for finishing materials for the bath, except for decorative ones, are moisture resistance, hygiene, complete chemical neutrality. By their combination, they often take a wooden lining from an array. MDF and laminate are not suitable, they will swell and become limp! The profile of the lining for any orientation of the boards must meet the requirements described above: no pockets facing up, for example, as in Fig. on right.

In the steam room, of course, you need a bed. They are made 2-3 tiered, with a vertical step of 50-60 cm, even if only one person is steaming all the time. The reason is that you need to be able to choose the height of the location when soaring, depending on the general condition, so that the bathhouse does not come out sideways.

The width of the beds is 60-80 cm; flooring - necessarily with slots of 10-20 mm, on the left in fig. The clean floor under the floors is not laid, it will slip! The length of the beds is 180-200 cm for soaring in a prone position or 80-100 cm for soaring while sitting. "Economical" 150 cm for vaping with knees raised is not the best option. Sometimes you want and need to raise your knees while soaring in prone position, but if you soar like this all the time, your health will not be beneficial due to the constant outflow of blood from the legs to the heart and head.

It is better to finish the shower / sink from the boards upright, on the right in the figure, so there is less chance of decay - it is easier for water to drain from the grooves. Also in the washing room, whether they eat there or roll out of the gang, benches are needed - to sit, steamed, to do their feet, without risking slipping, for children.

About partitions

Capital partitions in the bath are not needed. On the contrary, they need to be made lighter so that the heat of the stove quickly dissipates throughout the bath. Partitions are placed in front of internal insulation, insulation and decoration. Material - boards or wooden lining on a wooden frame; total thickness - 50-70 mm. Moisture resistant plasterboard, plywood, etc. are not suitable, they will not last long in the bath.

Oven

A requirement common to all sauna stoves is an elongated firebox channel so that the furnace door can be brought into the dressing room. Tradition is a tradition, but in the old days it was most often consumed in the baths: a person's susceptibility to carbon monoxide increases sharply with an increase in air temperature.

For a bath with a common steam-washing room, an inexpensive bath stove without an air convector, like "Heat" and its home-made copies, is most suitable. A stove stove for a bath with a water heater will also go - in the smallest steam room, you can provide the length of the horizontal part of the chimney from 2 m, which will make the stove quite economical.

It is unrealistic to maintain in a small bath the distance of the stove from the walls of 60 cm required by the PB, and special fireproof ones, as in the steam room on the previous one. fig. are very expensive. Therefore, the nook for the oven in the bath must, firstly, be covered with a mat of vermiculite or mineral cardboard, pos. 1 in fig. on right. Ordinary refractory bedding made of asbestos and steel sheet is not suitable for a bath - iron heated to 60-70 degrees can be badly burned by stepping on your foot, because the severity of the burn depends on the amount of heat energy transferred to the body, and the metal gives off heat well and quickly. Therefore, by the way, steam burns are so dangerous - in this case, a very large latent heat of water condensation is released.

Secondly, the walls near the furnace must be covered with refractory sheathing. In the same pos. 1 builders did not skimp on fireclay bricks for her. Physically - excellent, but constantly moistened, the chamotte will soon crumble, and the skin will have to be changed. The same high-burnt (dark) ceramic working brick that went to the top of the cladding would have worked right down to the bottom.

A little more about the shape of the sauna stove. In a collective steam room, it is best to put a round oven, pos. 2 in the same fig., Or a basket stove with a combustion part hidden in the heater. Then all soaring people will receive equal shares of health.

Unusual differences

The nucleus of the Russian baths is the dugout bath, see fig. For its construction, a dry sandy (better), sandy or loamy hillock is required. Walls, stove, chimney - from boulders or large rubble; the roof is covered with turf. On the earthen floor, a wooden lattice is placed, which is then thrown back against the wall so as not to rot. Runoff into the ground, which in our time is possible only furtively, but steam - Ilya Muromets would only groan and hoot.

And here's something else - a hiking mini-bath, see next. fig.

The design on the same principle is repeated by many, both in mobile and stationary versions, see at least the video:

Video: mini-bath

But let's take a closer look at fig. Doesn't this structure look like ...? If you take a milky, not translucent on the skin? Unless the owners are prone to exhibitionism, and even then the neighbors will complain. In general, it is worth trying in the country.

Not everyone has the desire and opportunity to invest a lot in the construction of a bath. And in most of our country, sometimes it is simply necessary to warm up. The only way out is to build a bathhouse inexpensively, with your own hands. There are a sufficient number of building materials and technologies that can be called budgetary.

If we talk about the construction of full-fledged, albeit small, but separate baths, then the most budgetary technologies are frame and monolithic ones. Cheap baths are often made on a wooden frame, sheathed with plywood, OSB, boards - whoever has what. Insulation is laid inside, between the two skins.

One of the options for the frame structure - with board cladding

In monolithic construction, the most popular for the construction of baths is arbolite - a mixture of cement with sawdust. Sawdust can be generally free or cost very little. Little cement is required in wood concrete, so this type of construction is unlikely to hit hard. A removable formwork is placed along the perimeter of the building, the mixture is loaded into it, and rammed. The next batch is mixed. It's that simple. The disadvantage of this material is considered flammability, but after all, wooden and frame baths are also flammable. So this is not an argument.

Sawdust concrete or wood concrete is a warm, natural material that consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water

Polystyrene concrete (granular foam mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of "chemistry" - foam - in the construction of a bath. However, by itself, this material allows you to get a cheap and light construction, which, if properly finished, will only delight the owners.

All three technologies provide a combination of low prices and good thermal performance, that is, heating such buildings requires a little fuel, which is the main indicator of efficiency in baths.

There are regions where timber is still the cheapest material. It may be the cheapest place to put a chopped bath in them. From round timber or from a bar - this is optional. The plus of such a solution is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemistry in order to maintain its appearance and protect it from diseases and insects). But chopped baths have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls have been erected and the roof installed. It is necessary to wait until the main shrinkage passes and only then begin insulation and finishing work. The second disadvantage is that it is necessary to regularly update the protective coating, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But the wooden baths themselves are very good for their special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive wall technology is not all. Sometimes, almost half of the funds required for the construction of a building as a whole are spent on building a foundation. The technologies listed above are good in that lightweight foundations can be made for them. Somewhere it is enough columnar, somewhere pile or pile-grillage. Any of the walls listed above can coexist quite normally with them, leveling their shortcomings (possible uneven shrinkage of different support points).

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes a shallow or normal strip foundation may be required, and a monolithic slab may be needed on particularly heaving or unstable soils. On such grounds, to the above technologies for the construction of walls, you can add more building blocks - foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (basically, careful protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although more solid foundations are required.

Compact or temporary

If at the dacha you want to build a mini-bath, a very small booth, then you need to take a closer look at the construction technology or. If desired, even an ordinary construction trailer, shed or shed can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate well and put the correct stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bath in stages - photo report

The initial data are as follows: a bath in terms of no more than 4 * 5 meters, the budget is small - no more than $ 200-300 per month. From the initial data - heaving clay soil, 4 meters from the fence - a cliff. Bringing all this together, it was decided to build a frame bath on a columnar foundation.

The bath itself turned out to be 5 * 3 m, plus a 1 meter wide terrace on the long side. It was decided to make the pillars under the bath from asbestos-cement pipes 34 cm in diameter, under the terrace of 15 cm. In the center of the plan, 4 additional pillars are marked - this is the foundation for a brick oven.

We bury ourselves below the freezing depth - 140 cm for this region. By the way, we cut the pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bath is 20 cm above the ground.

A frame made of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed inside each pillar. 4 rods are connected, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can then easily weld the strapping.

Ready-made concrete was ordered, grade M250. A formwork was placed along the perimeter between the posts and a boat was immediately poured in, which will close the gap between the bathhouse floor and the ground.

A week later, the concrete gained enough strength, continued work. A harness was welded from a 70 * 70 mm corner with a wall thickness of 6 mm (the corner was on the farm). To connect the posts and the metal, we weld the reinforcement outlets to the corner shelves.

I must say right away that this foundation is redundant in terms of bearing capacity. On it, you can build a two-story heavy building, and not a light one-story frame. But, since they did it "for themselves," and there is also a clay cliff nearby, it was decided to play it safe.

In the washing room and the rest room, it was decided to make warm floors - sometimes you just need to wash, without steaming, and doing this on a warm floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, insulation (expanded polystyrene) is laid on the subfloor, waterproofing, reinforcing mesh on top, pipes are tied to it, and the whole economy is filled with concrete. Naturally, the warm floor was not poured under the stove.

A week later, when the concrete gained enough strength (it was not covered, but watered regularly), work began on the construction of the frame. For the racks, a beam of 150 * 150 mm was used, spacers - a board of 50 * 150 mm (again, a solid margin of safety, but this is out of a desire to build a good bath).

The bathhouse was built mostly alone, therefore, a sequential installation method was chosen - the racks are placed first in the corners, then in those places where door-windows will be installed or adjacent walls. If as a result, somewhere there are gaps of more than 1 meter, additional racks are placed. But in this case, since all the racks were made of a very powerful bar, intermediate ones were not set, and the rigidity of the structure was given by slopes.

Further, so that when the floor was laid, it would not drip on the head, they began to manufacture the roof of the bath. It is made the most budgetary - single-slope, with a minimum rise of 15 °. To ensure this slope, the racks were made in different lengths in advance.

A board of the upper strapping is nailed to the racks at one level, the ceiling beams are attached to it. Rafters with the required slope are attached to the same racks. A solid lathing under the roofing material is stuffed on top.

The shed roof rafter system is very easy to manufacture

After the roof was ready, the walls of the OSB were sheathed, and then the floor was laid on the rest of the bath.

The next stage is laying the stove. This is a long-term business - it took a whole month. The stove is folded with a closed stove. A cast-iron box is built in the chimney formation zone, in which stones are laid. A door leads into the heater, which leads to the steam room.

The stove also has a built-in register that heats water for the warm floor (outlets on the side of the stove). It is not always necessary to heat the floor, therefore there are two modes of operation - summer without floor heating, and winter, with "turning on" register heating. Transfer from one mode to another - by means of a latch.

This is followed by finishing work, and they will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less general is insulation. Mineral wool was used to insulate the walls and ceiling. The thickness of the layer on the walls in "cold rooms" is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling - 150 mm. The steam room on top of the insulation is sheathed with foil on kraft paper.

After the insulation, a vapor barrier is attached. In the rest room, the walls are sheathed with OSB, a cork is glued on top. In the shower room, tiles are glued to OSB, the "dry" part is upholstered with clapboard (horizontally).

Washing room - dry area and shower

In the steam room, first the lathing is filled with lining, then a wide lining. The steam room turned out to be quite small, and the stove also takes up a lot of space. Two are accommodated comfortably, three are more difficult, but also quite convenient. To regulate the number of seats in the steam room, the shelves were made retractable.

The whole construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly "in one hand". The assistants were only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set the racks (they must be 100% vertical).

Video example of the construction of a bath from monolithic arbolite

Inexpensive bath 3 * 6 with your own hands - step by step photos

The log for the future bath was prepared and sanded in advance; it was covered from rains and dried for about 5 months. The building will consist of two halves: a steam room and a sink made of logs, and a relaxation room on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3 * 3 m.Construction began with a layout: in the plan 6 * 3.

The soil is sandy, so we make it shallow. We dig a trench 60 cm deep, set the formwork. The width of the tape is taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

We make doors - from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side, and lining on the other. How to do

We leave it in this form for the winter - the blockhouse should "sit down". In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building, we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

We start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to make a budget filing of the ceiling - to fill short boards between the rafters. They can be bought very inexpensively. We process, cut into the desired length. We stuff support bars onto the rafters, to which we knock boards cut to size from below.

Outside, the yuan was sheathed with siding - both the frame part and the log house. It was far from perfect. And there is a ventilation gap between the siding and the wall, so there are no problems with moisture removal.

Do-it-yourself budget bath - another inexpensive solution - siding

We started to cover the interior. We fill the crate, lining on it.

Inside the rest room was lined with clapboard

Moving on to finishing the steam room. First, they punched everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room area, separated by a glass door, and a "washing" area. In the washing wall we will surround with moisture-resistant plasterboard, on which we will then glue the tiles, and in the steam room - with clapboard.

We cover the steam room area with clapboard and

We cut an opening in the wall for the installation of the stove. She will be heated from the rest room, and her "body" will be in the steam room. We lay a brick base under the stove, install it. We cover the fuel removal with fireclay bricks.

We decorate the sink with tiles.

For the main work, that's all, the decor and all sorts of things remained - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the "filling.

For a Russian person, a bath is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that love for a bath broom and good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages nearby, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I, during a trip to France, could not stand two days without his own steam, urgently ordering to build a Russian bathhouse right on the bank of a foreign river, which shocked the natives a lot. But what if building is so expensive today, and public steam rooms are not to everyone's liking? And if relaxation in the steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the cunning tricks of modern Russian craftsmen who manage to build their steam rooms literally for vacation pay.

So, let's look at the most successful projects for the construction of baths and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not to lose in the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budgetary bath is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.

What can and cannot be saved on when building a bath?

Agree, no savings are worth the loss of health, property or life. But the most sad situations occur when the question of cheapness is approached thoughtlessly: such baths first slowly poison their owners by releasing hazardous substances, and then either burn or deteriorate quickly. But this does not mean that it is better to give up and give all the hard-earned money to the conscience of the construction team - it is better to just give up dangerous use during construction from the very beginning:

1. Non-certified materials and counterfeits, for which unscrupulous sellers ask for several times less. And at the same time they convince the buyer that "there is no difference with the expensive material, there is simply no markup for the brand, my brother / matchmaker / son-in-law has had a bath with this for half a century, and nothing."
2. Materials that are strictly not intended for the construction and decoration of baths. So, if it is impossible to insulate the walls in a sauna with foam plastic, then it is impossible, and this is not a whim of the manufacturer. Again, a neighbor who, at his own peril and risk, insulated in this way and now boasts is not an example.
3. Unsuitable accessories for conducting electricity in the bath (wires, sockets), unprotected lamps or cheap Chinese products.
4. Homemade stoves and water heaters that no one has tested for fire safety.
5. Combustible materials and those that do not indicate that they can be used in conditions of high humidity and heat.

If you are building a bathhouse with your own hands and are forced to save as much as possible on materials, calculate your every step well, consult with experts and do not leave anything unattended “it seems to work”. And finally, save on a limited budget better on cubic meters of the steam room, but not on the materials of its finishing. Such is the advice.

Let's understand a little about affordable heaters. So, basalt wool is made of stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are not connected chemically, but by another technology, and therefore, even when placed behind the foil in the steam room, hazardous substances will not be released. This insulation is non-flammable and insulates the firebox well. For a bath - the best option. If you want to save money, then put one layer of basalt wool and a couple of layers of another, cheaper material on the ceiling.

Penofol is also used as an economical option - porous propylene with polyethylene film and foil spraying. You can buy it in roll form and attach it directly to a bare wall. This material is a good heat bridge between the wall itself and the insulation.

1. Purchase a stove without a remote firebox - so much less firewood will be spent on heating the steam room, and such a unit is inexpensive.
2. Be sure to install a water tank - this is the fastest and most economical way.
3. Make the foundation for the bath cheap and removable: it is much cheaper and easier with it to carry out repair work and change it to another.
4. Pay maximum attention to the insulation of the bath - the less you “heat the street”, the more economical the heating itself will be.
5. Stick the bubble wrap on the window in the break room in winter - this will keep you warm by at least 50%.
6. Instead of a regular shower or shower stall, put a traditional Russian tub. Yes, and healthier, by the way. And it is not at all necessary to pour only ice water into it.
7. When purchasing lining, take short-sized bars - they are cheaper and look no worse.
8. Build the roof of the bathhouse low, no more than the ratio of width to height 1: 3. This design will take much less materials, and the chimney will also not need to be made high.

Project # 1 - a compact bath at a minimum cost

So, a step by step process:

• Step 1 - foundation. We will make the foundation columnar. To do this, you will need to get a 2 meter auger drill. Use ordinary cheap 110 mm sewer pipes as casing. Insert the reinforcement from two connected rods.

• Step 2 - strapping. Place studs 500 mm long under the harness. Assemble the strapping 150x150, and prepare the frame posts with a height of 2200 mm. Treat the frame with Neomid 440 or some other suitable for the same purpose.
• Step 3 - walls. You can modify the walls directly on the harness, and just raise them. We cover the DSP. To do this, we pre-drill the plates, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws with a semicircular head.
• Step 4 - the roof. We cover the roof with eight-wave slate. We save!
• Step 5 - insulation. Now we put in any inexpensive insulation that is suitable for a bath. In this project - Linrock Light.
• Step 6 - oven. We put an inexpensive oven, you can make it yourself. But under any, we must additionally lay out a brick corner.
• Step 7 - finishing. We fix the lining, skirting boards, cash holders.

So a compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.

If the walls, due to savings, are not too strong, then the smaller the bath is in volume, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.

Project # 2 - arbolite is used

And here is a good example of building a budget bath from wood concrete - at a price it is not much more expensive than frame technology. So, the outer walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, inside there is a brick partition from the stove.

This is how the construction process looks like:

• Step 1. We dig a drain pit with dimensions of 1.2x1.8x1.4 m. On both sides, we fill in the OPGS with stones, make the formwork, fill it.
• Step 2. We dig a foundation 30 cm wide, up to 50 cm deep. We fill it with sand and ram.
• Step 3. We put the formwork, we reinforce two rods at the top and bottom. We put vertical rods every meter. We fill the foundation.
• Step 4. We put EPS, mesh in the washing and steam room and fill the floors. In the washing room we additionally organize a drain

• Step 5. We put blocks, check the evenness of the walls with a level.
• Step 6. We make the roof using 50x100 boards. The optimal distance between the rafters is 55-80 cm. We cover.
• Step 7. We cook the oven or buy a budget ready one. The ventilation scheme is as follows: outside the air goes to the gap between the stove and the brick wall, where it heats up.
• Step 8. Install the shower tank in the attic.
• Step 9. We decorate the walls from the inside. If possible, use Izospan FB - a special material for baths, plus heat-resistant adhesive tape. Izolon is good for the ceiling, which can withstand temperatures up to 150 ° C.

Such is the budget and quite successful bath.

When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: according to its density, it can be heat-insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg / m, the second - 500-850 kg / m. This material is used for the construction of self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.

Project # 3 - miniature log bathhouse in national style

And if you can't imagine a Russian steam room made of another material, like a bar, you can build such a relatively budget option.

• Step 1. Align the platform for the foundation from the dropout, put together the "formwork" and leave only the opening for draining the water from the washing room.
• Step 2. We spread the EPS, knit the reinforcement cage. Fill with concrete, make a ramp for water and the foundation is ready.
• Step 3. Laying the log house. Under the first crown we put a board treated with an antiseptic, which we cover with roofing material on three sides. You can put moss on the board itself - it has antiseptic properties, and therefore the bath crown will last even longer.
• Step 4. Build the walls and leave them for a few months to shrink.
• Step 5. Fasten the rafters and cover the roof. We make a pipe passage through the overlap - it is easy to make it from a metal corner and a stainless steel sheet.
• Step 6. Between the steam room and the dressing room we make a frame partition, insulate it with mineral wool and sheathe it with clapboard on both sides.
• Step 7. We spread the floor in front of the stove with porcelain stoneware. We leave a special hole in the floor for supply ventilation.
• Step 8. We remove the pipe from the stove through the roof. The passage is made of Master-flush rubber, which is resistant to temperature. Seal the joint with the roofing with MS-polymer.
• Step 9. We fix the shelves in the steam room and connect the electricity.

Remember, the first step to huge savings when building your own bath is to build it yourself!

Project # 4 - steam room on a light frame from improvised means

Bars for the bath frame can be made even from collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is only to choose from them without defects and knots, and be sure to treat with an antiseptic.

So, we are building a budget bath from improvised means:

• Step 1. We make beams for the frame, process and dry.
• Step 2. We build a pile-rubble foundation: we pull out the soil by a meter with a drill, forget the thick pine stakes there and make a backfill of concrete and stones on top. Next, fill in the pillars to the top.
• Step 4. Assembling the frame.
• Step 5. Dig a hole under the drain, insert a barrel with broken bricks and rubble inside, take a ladder there. This is not an insulated summer option, but for a winter one you can lay a heater or a heating cable.
• Step 6. and the ceiling, put a film on top of the insulation. We put Finnish foil paper for saunas on the walls and ceiling.
• Step 7. We put the oven. Take with the register, tk. water heating is needed for washing - in order not to purchase a separate boiler. So, it has proven itself well - inexpensive and heats well.

Such a bath serves surprisingly for a long time, the steam pleases and spending time in it is a pleasure. And you can always find cons.

Mini-baths: cheap and cheerful

But if there is no money at all for the construction of a steam room, you should not despair - today there are many options to build a steam room out of nothing. Let's take a closer look.

Barrel bath

This is the most common, only of a more solid size. Part of it is covered by a wooden lattice screen, behind which the stove is hidden. There is a small bench in front of the screen. Even three people can steam at the same time in such a bath. But this option is only for summer: they rolled it out onto the site, put it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option - even nothing.

Hiking bath

Such a bath is taken mainly on a hike, but if there is no other alternative, it can be used on the site. It will be inexpensive, because it is an ordinary tent in which a stove or an electric one is placed. This is no longer the same soft Russian bath, but as a temporary phenomenon it also has a right to exist.

Built-in mini-sauna

There is also a fashion to do in the bathroom. So, we transfer the washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something similar to a cabinet. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of a frame and upholstered with clapboard. Inside - one seat shelf and built-in steam generator. The person sits down, closes the door, turns on the device. But his head remains outside for safety. Using special aromatic oils and other SPA elements is quite a good way to improve your health. We can say that this is the smallest and cheapest bath in the world.

Baths in the car

If you have the opportunity to get a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can build a small bathhouse right in them. Our site even has detailed master classes on how to do this, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room with pouring the foundation. Experiment!

Almost every owner of a land plot, sooner or later, thinks about building a bath. After all, the bath is not just a washing room, but also an important element of a summer cottage. Turnkey construction of a bath can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or try to build a bath with your own hands.

After reading this article, you can choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with the models of boilers and find the best option for a bath for your summer cottage.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to develop a bath project. For this, it is not necessary to contact an architect, you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since now there are many computer programs for design.
Consider what size bath will work best for your family. What premises will be located inside the bath. What materials to make the foundation, walls and roof from, do not forget about finishing the bath. An important point in the design is the placement of the boiler and the way it is fired.
Below you can see the popular bath projects:

• • The bath project is 4x4 meters in size.

• • Baths project - 4x6 meters.

• • Baths project - 5x6 meters.

• • Baths project - 6x3 meters.

• Baths project - 3x3 meters.

After you have decided on the dimensions and materials for the bath, you need to make an estimate of the costs.

Foundation

For the construction of a bath, several types of foundation are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil, foundations of the following types are made:

• Slab foundation.
• Column foundation for light walls.
• Pile foundation.
• Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil is a concrete strip foundation, reinforced with reinforcement.

To manufacture a strip reinforced foundation for a bath, you will need:

• Cement.
• Sand.
• Gravel.
• Armature.
• Formwork.
• Roofing material.
• Wire.
• Shovels.
• Concrete mixer.
• Harness.
• Stakes.
• Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure, and others).

In the place chosen for the construction of the bath, mark the trench for the future foundation. For marking use a tourniquet stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is made based on the weight of the material for the walls. For a one-story bath made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. Having installed the markup, do the following:

1. Using the markings, dig a trench 50-80 centimeters deep.
2. Tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
3. Cover the bottom of the trenches with tar paper for waterproofing.
4. Backfill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
5. Place the formwork around the edges of the trench.
6. Make a frame reinforcing the foundation from reinforcement rods tied together with wire.
7. Place the reinforcement cage in the formwork.
8. Using a concrete mixer, make a cement mortar in the proportion: one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
9. Pour cement into the formwork, taking care not to allow air voids.
10. After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.

The foundation for the bath is ready!

Walls

The following materials are used for the construction of walls:

• Wooden bar.
• Logs.
• Boards.
• Brick.
• Blocks from various building mixtures (cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete and so on).

Since the construction of a bathhouse from logs or bricks is already widely described on the Internet, let's consider the option of building a frame bath from a bar of 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

1. 1. Make the bottom harness, for this take bars with a section of 15x15 cm and install them on the foundation, connecting them together with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect the bars, by sawing out spikes, grooves at their ends and then fastening them with screws or nails. When making the strapping, do not forget to put waterproofing under the bars.
   2. Install vertical racks from a 5x10 cm bar. The distance between the racks is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of the window and door openings and install the racks framing them.
   3. In the process of work, secure the already installed racks with temporary strips so that they do not warp.
   4. Make the top harness by attaching it to the ends of the uprights.
   5. When making the final fastening of the upper harness, carefully monitor the position of the uprights, checking their levelness.
   6. Be sure to reinforce all corner joints with diagonal posts, this will help prevent the frame from twisting.
   7. Make a ceiling batten.
   8. After making the frame, make the external cladding of the walls of the bath with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want the appearance of gaps between the boards, then make sheathing - "overlap", laying the bottom edge of the board on the nailed board. In appearance, this method resembles siding wall decoration.

1. After sheathing the bath from the outside, proceed to the installation of insulation. Foam or rock wool sheets are installed along the vertical posts of the frame.
2. On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier, which is attached to the vertical posts using thin slats.
3. After installing the vapor barrier, make the inner lining of the bath with clapboard or slats.
4. Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then insulation. Sheathe the outside of the ceiling with plywood sheets.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be done after the installation of the roof.

Roof

There are three types of roof for a bath:

• Shed.
• Gable.
• Difficult - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually the first two options are used for a bath. Let's consider the option of a gable roof covered with metal tiles:


Roof manufacturing begins with installation - Mauerlat. In the case of frame walls, the upper outline serves as a Mauerlat.

1. Place the uprights on the bed.
2. Connect the uprights with purlins and braces.
3. Install the rafter legs by attaching them to the Mauerlat, girder and connecting the upper ends together. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
4. Install sheets of metal tiles.
5. Sheathe the gables with wooden battens or sheet metal.

For a more visual acquaintance with the roof fastening, a picture is given:


All sizes of roof elements are shown in the list:


Please note that the less you tilt the roof, the more snow load will fall on it in winter. Also, a small slope of the roof can lead to poor water drainage and leaks.

Floors

Floor construction depends on the type of room. The common wood floors are made in the break room. In the washroom and steam room, the floors are made of two levels:

• The first level is made of concrete and has a slope towards the drain hole.
• The second level is a finished floor of planks with gaps for water drainage.

If you want to make a floor from porcelain stoneware or tiles, then they are simply laid on the first level with a slope towards the drain hole.


In order to make a concrete floor and drain in the bath, you need:

1. In the center of the steam room and the washing room, install plastic pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters with a bell at the end. The pipes must go through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewage system.
2. Lay a layer of waterproofing material.
3. Spread a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms.
4. Make a grout and fill the floor with a slope to the hole installed on the drain pipe.
5. Install a grate on the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the drain.

In the second stage, wooden floors are made:

1. Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bath. Make the distance between the lags 30-40 centimeters. As a lag, you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm. Or 4x6 cm.
2. Nail boards with a section of 2x15 cm or 5x20 cm on the logs.
3. In rooms where water is supposed to drain, leave gaps of 0.5-1 cm between the boards.

Do not forget to treat all parts with wood impregnation before starting the installation of wooden floors. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be higher, or at the level of the upper edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of a boiler for a bath will largely depend on your financial capabilities and the fuel that you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then you can make a simple boiler yourself, from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced gas or electricity colas, then they can be purchased from specialized firms.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, for fire safety purposes, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. The walls are to the height of the boiler, covered with iron sheets. A good solution would be to lay a brick on the boiler, there you will reduce the cooling time and protect the walls from fire.

When arranging a chimney for a boiler, pay special attention to the place where the chimney is in contact with the ceiling. The chimney opening should be insulated with refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. Usually, this area is prone to leaks, so you should carefully cover it up. Below are the options for boilers for a bath:

• • Homemade boiler made of metal sheets.

• • A gas boiler.

• • Electric boiler.

• Solid fuel boiler.

Bath arrangement

After the bath is built, you need to equip it:

• • Bring all communications available on the site to the bath - electricity, sewerage, water supply.

• • Place a sink, shower cubicle, light sources, and furniture for rest inside.

• • Decorate the walls of the steam room with curly slats and make stepped shelves.

• Buy wooden tubs, buckets, buckets and brooms.

After the arrangement, you can safely invite guests, take a steam bath in your personal bath!

Instructions for assembling a mini-bath for a summer residence without a foundation, you can also watch in the video:

Options for beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and designs for the bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we give photos of the most unusual baths:

• A mobile bathhouse made of lining, built on a car trailer.

• Bathhouse in a huge wine barrel.

• Bath from plastic bottles.

• Bathhouse dugout, built right in the ground.

• Bath, arranged in an iron container.

• Forest sauna made of untreated logs.

• A beautiful bath from a gun carriage.

• Bath from not edged boards.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that the heating of the bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bath from bricks, logs, cinder blocks or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to the wiring device, since the rooms inside the bath have high humidity and the risk of a short circuit due to condensation is very high.


We hope that reading our article will push you to build a bath yourself!

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can take care of a vegetable garden or landscaping a site, and then relax, steam in a bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It will take a lot of work, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bath, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly how it will be, but a little later. First you need:

• choose a suitable project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building material;
• build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
• perform interior decoration and only then take a steam bath.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bathhouse in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all the stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

Often, summer cottages are not large, but apart from personal preferences and convenience, there are also norms that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
2. It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun, penetrating into the steam room through the window, will relieve stress, but at the same time it must be done so that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window of the country house. So you can watch the heating bath and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

In order not to have conflicts with the authorities or neighbors, you must comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only those numbers that you need in order to choose the optimal place for the bath.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

Material from which supporting and enclosing structures are made		Distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the structure
	The same buildings using wooden elements
	Wooden and similar structures

As for the requirements regarding the distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - shower, bath and sauna must be at least 8 m away from the garden house.

By the way, non-compliance with these norms can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bath to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to take into account the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of buildings:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bathhouse (from a bar or rounded logs).
3. Bath made of bricks, stones or blocks.
4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to build frame structures, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you will not have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, in contrast to the frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built in the country does not need insulation.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bathhouse in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be heated for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Arbolite is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or made of blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since this article deals with several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

• A beam of various sections, the size and quantity of which is indicated in the project.
• Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
• Material for covering the frame from the outside and from the inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block houses are used for the exterior cladding of a building, while lining is used from the inside.

Wooden bath

For the construction of walls can be used:

• Natural debarked wood.
• Edged timber.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.
• Rounded log.

Bath made of bricks, stones or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (quarry, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

If there is an opportunity to inexpensively purchase sawdust (and maybe there are some), then at home it is quite possible to make wood concrete blocks of fairly high quality. Also, this building material in the form of ready-made blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the ability to manufacture monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, therefore it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For lining the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use a wooden lining, as it can withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to emit from this wood. Also, you can not hem the ceiling with fiberboard and chipboard sheets, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can harm human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only on the condition that the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will make such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is embedded inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which a heater will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation made using a more sophisticated technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. The insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will do its job, while improperly used waterproofing can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to buy a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bathhouse in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for the exterior decoration, it can be any material that is used for cladding houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Bath construction

Now let's look at how the construction of a bathhouse in the country can be done with our own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. In the initial stage of the work, some assignments can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as they would like, but if they feel that they are needed, they will then be more careful with the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be long-term construction, especially since some work simply cannot be done alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants you may need - this will help you plan everything.

Markup

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been determined, now we will proceed to the marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale indicated in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - fourth peg is hammered.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted by "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct again.

If the foundation is strip, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or columnar foundation, the marking must be very accurate.

This is how we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further markup is performed depending on what the foundation will be. You can learn more about this from the table.

Foundation type	Where is markup applied and how is it done
	This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in cases where it cannot be done without it. The marking is done according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary for the foundation to be wider and longer than the bath.
Tape	A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The markings are made in such a way that the concrete-filled tape runs along the perimeter of the building and under the partitions.
Columnar	This type of foundation is also often found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden structures on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of produced supports.
Screw	It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, since the military began to use it for a long time. The advantage of the foundation device on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to do earthwork, so the site will remain clean. In addition, with its help, you can build a bathhouse even on a site with a significant slope. The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Pouring the foundation

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
2. The groundwater level is quite low.
3. In winter, frosts are not very strong.
4. The structure is not heavy.

Don't try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after completing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bath.

• We have external markings, now we need to carry out the internal ones, taking into account that the foundation should be at least 50 cm wide in width, and should protrude beyond the structure by 5 каждой10 cm on each side. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation site of the furnace and at the same time make the foundation for it.
• For convenience, in the corners, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord must be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

• It is necessary to remove the fertile topsoil and remove it to the side, then dig a trench, from which the clay can then be used as a bedding.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. It is necessary to get to the bottom of a strong clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50 - 60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its levelness with a level.
• Now it's the turn of the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand inside the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and tamp well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibratory rammer, but it is also possible manually, using a weighty bar with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully rammed.
• Now it is the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be disassembled soon after the foundation is poured. Ready-made shields must be installed along the trench and secured well, otherwise the poured concrete can move them.

• In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside with plastic wrap, which must be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic reinforcement, fastened with a knitting wire.

• The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame over the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
• If any communications pass through the foundation, then holes need to be left for them, in which the sleeves will help, as shown in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time to fill the foundation with concrete in a day, as breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that 1 bucket of M400 cement is required, 3 of sand, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
• The concrete-filled foundation should be compacted with a vibrator or pierced. After shrinkage, add a little concrete and level the area. If the foundation is being made for a wooden house, then the foundation bolts must be fixed in the uncured concrete.
• Formwork can be removed not earlier than in a week.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet reached its full strength, therefore, it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Video: building a foundation for a bath

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or bricks, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar according to the level, and lay roofing material on it, folded in half. Laying starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is pulled along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building material.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of bricks and shell rock is erected on a cement-sand mortar, while for laying lightweight blocks, mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used.

Having installed jumpers over the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, you can start making the roof.

Bath frame construction

The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types of finishing materials. You need to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. Manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower strapping is made from a bar of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them to each other with self-tapping screws. If bars of 50 × 100 mm are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bath.

• At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are already attached to it. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
• The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close to each other, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
• The frame of the walls is assembled from a bar of 50 × 100 mm, and then installed into place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, it is necessary to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as an insulating material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disrupting natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after roof installation. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in a frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay a floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a rough floor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the country will not dry out thoroughly due to the lack of time for this, because after the weekend it will be necessary to hastily leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it with tiles. Wooden boards are laid on it, which can be taken out to dry in the barn and calmly go home.

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. More details about this process are described in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bath

Roof construction

Any bath should have a reliable roof, but the options for its creation may be different. In any case, you need to install waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will easily penetrate into the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the dacha is located in a steppe zone blown by all winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
• With small dimensions of the bath and insignificant snow load, the roof can be made shed. The same roof is most often made in a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bath roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most commonly used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created at high humidity. It should be said right away that you cannot use pine sawn timber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase larch or linden lining.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room, it is perfect for a rest room and a dressing room. The pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Decorating a wooden and brick bath with clapboard is almost the same. First, the crate is attached to the wall, and the lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there must be a heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it. To decorate the bath from the outside, you can use the following materials:

• Imitation of a bar.
• Siding.
• Lining.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Paint.

You just have to choose the right material and finish the facade.

Bath ventilation

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room it is very hot upstairs, and the legs are freezing.

In fact, during the adoption of bath procedures, the air in the room must be renewed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust outlet is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens, and warm air begins to rapidly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation as in the diagram.

Such a device allows you to keep warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the upper ventilation opening (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it so that it is possible to close the ventilation openings during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

The canopy and all the furniture for a summer cottage can be made independently. If there is no desire to tinker with something else, then there are many offers on the network for the sale of everything you need for a summer residence.

If you want to save money on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but hands do not reach it? After a small restoration, such furniture can last a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Schemes

Photo: original baths