How to apply a solution to foam. Facade Foam Plaster Technology: Choose than and how to plaster insulation

Today everyone is engaged in the insulation of their homes. This is a necessary measure to save energy sources in general and cash, in a specific family. Therefore, practically everyone was studying the study of technologies and materials to create a thermal insulation layer.

Most sources mention that polystyrene foam must be placed. Why and how to do it will figure it right now.

The material is created by foaming the polystyrene and add bonding components that hold the granules together. Unfortunately, these ties do not differ at all and are destroyed when exposed to such factors as:

solar radiation;
some service life;
atmosphere pressure.

Even the new material is very fragile. If a dent is formed on an unprotected plate, and the corners of the already easily cleaned.

That is why polystyrene foam requires protection. As a protective layer, plastering is often used as an affordable method and decoration of the facade.

Required tools

To qualitatively and quickly apply a plastering solution on polystyrene foaming will have to get a set of tools. To do this, need:

Capacities for the kneading solution.
Perforator (used and for the preparation of the mixture and for fixing expanded polystyrene).
Brush or sprinkler for applying primer.
A sharp knife for trimming reinforcing grid and insulation slabs.
Wide spatula for applying a solution to the surface.
Narrow spatula.
The grater for aligning the layer.

It is unlikely that everyone has such a set, because going, for the materials do not forget to get tools and tools.

Types of plaster materials

This material requires the selection of a special plastering composition. Not all plasters are suitable for expanded polystyrene. Some options have in the components that destroy the foam immediately. Therefore, in the store, you will definitely check with a consultant, will make the composition for work on this insulation or not.

Mineral

The most accessible option. It consists of cement, sand and mineral fillers that improve the properties of the layer after frozen. Sold in the form of dry mixtures, which before starting work, it is necessary to breed with water in a certain ratio. Proportions Manufacturer necessarily indicates packaging.

Make such a solution, quite possible and independently. At the same time, sand, cement and in the process of preparation, are measured by the required volumes of each component separately. So, it is more difficult to work, especially if you need to prepare a single site for finishing a small area.

Mineral plaster less high-quality. Difficulties arise during application, because with polystyrene foam has poor adhesion. To increase the adhesive adhesiveness, the insulation is treated with a special primer and make small supercursions over the entire surface.

Acrylic

More expensive option plastering mixtures, but at the same time better. Such plaster on expanded polystyrene does not require special preparatory work, since it has high adhesion performance with any materials.

The main components are acrylic resins together with chemical additives. Such mixtures were created exclusively for finishing facades after insulation. Therefore, it is well withstanding various loads. Processed surface for a long time retains attractiveness and is easily cleaned.

Using acrylic plaster, you can create textures or immediately use decorative compositions. For example, "Coroed" has inclusions that, after wiping, form grooves. Using different grout techniques, you can create an original drawing.

Features of such a finish

Apply the plaster is difficult for this insulation for the following reasons:

smooth surface - the solution can slide if it turned out to be applied, it can crack or fall off after drying;
the absence of hygroscopicity - moisture from the plastering solution is not absorbed into polystyrene foam, and remains in the decoration, which significantly prolongs the dying period;
the difference in the values \u200b\u200bof temperature expansions in the insulation and finishing material, which causes the latter cracking.

To avoid such problems, preparatory work should be carried out and what to do everything as clear as possible and correctly:

On the surface of the polystyrene foaming to walk with a needle roller or make peckers with a sharp knife. Thus, it is possible to obtain a deepening, where the solution will be able to "catch".
Be sure to cover the primer increases adhesion.
Without a grid for reinforcement, it is not necessary.
The maximum thickness of the applied layer cannot exceed 5 mm.

How to plaster extruded expanded polystyrene - technology

If the insulation plates are mounted on the walls of the building, it is necessary to close them as quickly as possible. Professionals are recommended to do this immediately after the adhesive dry, which was fixed by the material.

Calculation

Buying material for plastering better with a margin. I would not want to run for an additional bag in the fastest of work. But how to find out how much materials do you need? For this, a simple calculation is carried out:

calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe processed walls excluding window and doorways;
on the packaging of the declaration of the approximate consumption of the mixture per square meter. It varies in the range of 4-6 kg;
multiply the specified value to the area being processed and obtain the required amount of the mixture;
added to the resulting value added another 10% - this will be the final number.

Preparation of plastering mixes

Typically, the manufacturer provides instructions for preparing the solution, because be sure to study the packaging and recommendations. If they are engaged in plastering expanded polystyrene for the first time, first a small damage to get used to the solution and execution process.

A dry mixture is poured into the container.
In small portions add water.
Mix can be done manually, use a perforator with a nozzle or a building mixer.
When the consistency is completely satisfied, leave the solution for 5 minutes to ripen and mix again.

In some cases, it is necessary to make a solution a bit of juicy than indicated in the instructions.

Watching reinforcing grid

The first thing is treated corners and slopes. To do this, cut the reinforcing mesh strips so that on both sides of the angle accounted for 10-15 cm of the material.

on both sides of the angle they apply a thin layer of solution;
apply the grid and smoothed from the angle so that the material is completely deepened into the solution;
if the lines of the piece did not have enough, they make a total of 10 cm, it is impossible to glue into the joint.

The wall is coated with solution.
The bandwidth is slightly exceeds the size of the reinforcing grid.
Apply the material and smoothed with a wide spatula or ironing.
The next layer of the grid is on the previous one, by 10-15 cm.

Stretching plaster grid

The first layer must dry. After that, a grater with emery paper, light circular motions, process the surface. This will allow to remove small irregularities and will help less use the solutions for alignment.

Surface leveling

We prepare a new solution and proceed to align the plastered expanded polystyrene. Now work with a wide spatula:

a small amount of solution is gaining to a wide spatula;
arc movements from top to bottom are applied to the wall;
the thickness of the layer is not more than 3 mm.

Make sure that the surface is obtained as smooth as possible.

Grouting the second layer

It is embarks only after the layer is completely dry. Work the same grater with sandpaper. Only be sure to pick up a small grain to remove small flaws. Otherwise, you can just spoil all the work.

Primer

Neglect this stage is not worth it. If you do not cover the base of the primer, the decorative layer is either poorly applied, or quickly will lose attractiveness. The composition of the primer depends on the method of finishing:

Further decorative plastering is the composition in which there are quartz sand, it helps to increase adhesion.
Staining - the composition without sand, makes the base even more.

Finish

By choosing one or another method of finishing, act clearly according to the plan that the manufacturer provides. And painting, and decorative plaster have their own nuances and methods of applying material. Therefore, you have to study a few more articles to figure out how to do everything.

Rates for services and materials

If the owner plans to fulfill all the work independently, then only materials will be included in its costs. Need to buy:

Polystyrene foam - thickness 50 mm from 110 rubles / pack.
Glue for foam - from 350 rubles / balloons or from 420 rubles / 25 kg dry mix.
Fiberglass reinforcing grid - from 780 rubles / steering wheel.
Plaster for the facade - from 250 rubles / 25 kg.

And materials for decorating, or paint, or decorative plaster. There is an option and hiring professional workers who will quickly do everything. The cost of their works depends on:

floor stores. The finish of a private house will cost a little cheaper than performing work at height;
there will be materials to purchase the customer or they will take their own;
total decoration area.

Exemplary rates are such

Polyfoam is one of the most popular materials for the insulation of facades of buildings. The foam insulation sheets have a large number of advantages, but it may be damaged due to the effects of the sun, temperature drops and high humidity levels. Also, the appearance of such a material does not differ at attractiveness, so often the foam is processed by a plastering mixture. This article will consider than plastering the foam outside and what tools will be needed for this.

Since external cladding is needed, the front plaster on the foam should be frost-resistant and have protection from different atmospheric precipitation, so that the gypsum compositions are not exactly suitable. The optimal solution will be a plastering solution based on cement, but not made independently of the primary materials. Special purchased composition is made with the addition of special elements that guarantee strength and high life of the resulting coating.

To plaster the facade of the foam, two varieties of compositions are necessary. One will be used as glue to perform reinforcement procedure, the second - to align the facade walls. Universal solutions are also manufactured, which combine both destinations.

If a separate purchase of glue and an aligning solution is planned, it is better to acquire products from one manufacturer. This will ensure their qualitative interaction. The adhesive consumption of the adhesive substance is within 4 kg per 1 m², and the plaster - 6 kg. Universal composition will need about 10 kg for processing 1 m².

The process of finishing the foam

Work on the processing of the facade surface consists of the following steps:

Preparation of tools and kneading plastering.
Reinforcement surface with a grid.
Wall alignment.
Facing with a decorative mixture.

Procedures must be implemented precisely in this order. They do not differ high difficulty, so even a newcomer can cope in the construction craft and the involvement of specialists will not need.

Preparation of tools and mixtures

What can be plastering foam outside? For processing such a coating, the following accessories will be needed:

capacity for the composition and mixer for mixing;
glue, knife and reinforcement grid for base processing;
primer mixture and processing roller;
directly plastering composition and spatulas of different sizes;
stack or grinding machine for grouting.

Decorative plasters in rooms also cover or. On the street, as a rule, only colorful compositions are used. It must be paints for external use. They are more racks to UFL and temperature rims, to form a solid film.

It is more practical to choose for finishing on foam decorative effects that can be easily restored in case of damage. Coroede is not included in this number.

Care for decorative plaster finish is simple. Most of the compositions are suitable for washing even with the use of detergents.

Plaster door openings and slopes

After replacing window or door frames, the best insulation of the outlooks formed between the frames and the facade will be the performance of slopes from foam plaster. You can do off immediately, as soon as the mounting foam is dry.

By simplicity, the work reminds the installation of plasterboard. PPS sheets are cut out blanks that are glued to the wall around the perimeter of the frame (under the windows, it is also necessary to mount the foam. When the glue dries, the dowels are installed with fungus. The plaster of the foam is performed as described above (the corners are put on the solution, attach the reinforcing mesh strips and T .d.).

In order not to be stained by the frames, they are covered before the start of foam works with painting scotch.

Foam Foam Plaster Consumption

If the plaster on the foam is performed by the facade universal mixture, then the flow rate per square meter will be 10 kg. Applying two types - adhesive and leveling plaster, blank on a square of 4 and 6 kg, respectively. The same consumption - 9-10 kg will be in the case of the use of polymer composition. Of these, 3.5-4 kg will be needed for gluing the insulation, the rest - on foam plastering. .

The insulation of the house of the foam with each goth becomes more popular. After reading how to plaster foam, what materials are better to purchase for the facade than the facade insulation preferably the insulation of the room, you can easily solve many problems that occur during repair or construction. The plastered thermal insulation will last longer if it is typing it and repair it in the event of a violation of the integrity of the "shell". Your home will be safer, and you are warmer and more comfortable in it.

The insulation of the walls of the house by foam was, there is also one of the most popular types of thermal insulation. The popularity of foamflast is due to its low price - even a large house is insulated with a large house - a completely satisfied task for a family budget. The task can be considered done if the plaster and putty the foam, the forces of the masters or their own hands.

Is it possible to stucify the penplex and foam - errors and errors

Polyfoam, like other polymeric materials, has a very long expansion period. Scientists talk about the successful test of the plates of this material under conditions that simulate 80 cycles of temperature change. How can it be, you ask? After all, everyone around is talking about the briefness of the foam. This statement complies with the truth only in part - the foam becomes short-lived with the direct effects of ultraviolet (sunlight) and mechanical influence. That is, if you decide to warm the facade of foam, you should take care of the protection of the material from these two factors.

According to experienced masters, if plain foam and to carry out repair work in a timely manner, on average, the service life of such a facade can be extended to 20 years. Yes, and the foam under insulation and the plaster should be special - brands of PSB-C-15, PSB-C-25.The second misconception, popular in the builders' environment - foam foam. And again, the assertion is only partially consistent with the truth - unconditionally, the foam foam, but the temperature of its fire is almost 2 times more than that of the same wood, and during burning it highlights two or three times less thermal energy.

That is, with a possible fire, polystyrene foam, how to better call this material, gives a minimal increase in the temperature of the walls, and therefore it is more than suitable for from the inside and outside. If technology is observed in the production of insulation slabs, as well as their installation, they become essentially safer than other popular materials involved in repair and construction.

Another common myth concerns the lack of benefit from the insulation of the facade and the absence of a significant increase in heat. Indeed, the plaster of the walls on the home mounted before this foam itself will not do warmer, but it will be much easier to get it - insulated walls are 30% better held heat inside the house, compared with the lack of insulation. Thanks to the savings of electricity and fuel resources, the insulation of the walls pays off on average for 5 years, after which you at least 15 years will significantly pay for heating.

Protective layer for foam - Shpocking and shockting

The most popular way to protect exposure to exposure to the environment is plastered. The essence of the process is to create a reinforcing and protective layer, which is capable of opposing mechanical damage and completely neutralizes the intake of ultraviolet.

The entire process of foam plastering is as follows:

special plaster mixes are preparing (ordinary plaster does not fit here);
the reinforcing grid is fixed on top of the polystyrene;
the first layer of plaster is applied;
wall leveling occurs;
final grout;
primer surface for decorative plaster;
finish decoration with decorative plaster (cored, mosaic).

It would seem that with how to twist and wipe the foam, it is quite easy to understand, and this operation can be performed either with your own hands, or hire a construction brigade at a similar price. In both cases, do not make basic errors - buy only specialized mixtures for polystyrene foam, do not save on. If you are configured to perform all the work done, view the learning video.

Today, the most proven manufacturers of plaster on foam and similar materials are firms Ecomix and Ceresit.It is very important that the putty, used for foam at different times, was only from one manufacturer. On average, about 4 kg of mixture leaves for one square meter in the process of grouting, and on the main layer of plaster - up to 6 kg. The finishing rapid layer can not be considered - just take the mixture with a reserve of 8-10%.

Stucco technology - we work on foam with your own hands

It is a pleasure to work with a foam - strictly defined parameters of smooth plates of polystyrene foams are mounted for counting hours. But shuttering of the walls will last longer. We start everything from mixing the mixture - we do it strictly according to the instructions from the manufacturer. True, in practice, nevertheless, it should be made to glue the reinforcing grid to glue - in this case it penetrates all the cells.

And for the core layer, the consistency should be liquid and fluid, which is not written about the instructions.

Plaster grid is a mandatory attribute in foam plastering. As she looks like, you can learn from the video. It is thanks to this element that the composition will hold on to polystyrene foam. Since the cement is included in the mixture, then the grid should be selected from alkaliy. The densely the grid you select, the easier it will be plastering with your own hands. Glue the plaster grid using a universal mixture, starting with corners and slopes.

For convenience, the bands of the required length are cut off (focus on the height of the wall, we leave a small margin) and a width of 30-60 cm. The blowing starts downward from top to bottom, from the top edge of the mesh - holding it with one hand, the second with a spatula is applied with a solid line over the entire edge. . The layer thickness is about 5 mm. As soon as the mixture clings, begin to fix the strip across the width, moving from top to bottom.

Consider that the neighboring strip is correctly assembled by the mustache at least for a centimeter, so you should always leave the place free from the plaster on the previous strip, as shown in the video. That is how, moving gradually all over the perimeter of the wall, and fix the reinforcing grid. On even places without angles and slopes, you can cut the material with slices to 1 meter wide, no more. More you simply do not have time to glue, since the mixture for sticking dries very quickly.

The next stage is the grid grid with your own hands. To do this, you will need a plastic grater with the emery web. The procedure is carried out only by the dried layer of plaster, which covered the grid. In hot summer weather, it is enough to wait a few hours, but in the crude cloudy - a day. Salt the circular movements, applying small efforts. The emery canvas from time to time should be hit from dust and change to a new one.

Be sure to wear safety glasses and respirator. After performing this stage, we proceed to apply the main leveling layer. It will take all the same plaster mixture and two spatula with a wide and narrow blades. With the help of a small spatula on a wider we put the mixture and we distribute wide movements over the surface. Layer thickness - 3-5 mm. To begin with, browse the video with examples of work and practice on a small area. According to the technologies of the crossing of the leveling layer, they should be located as far as possible from the mesh joints.

Then it remains to wait until the leveling plaster will dry up, and to lose it according to the same principles as the plaster grid. It is important not to delay with it - you have up to 4 days. Then every day the material will become all stronger, and a lot of effort will have to spend on the grout.

On the prepared (projected) surface of the walls, it is necessary to apply the finish decorative finish, for example, to draw the texture plaster under the fur coat or by the "Coroed" technology. Many do not consider it necessary to stucify the walls again, however, due to this layer, the insulation of the facade will last an order of magnitude longer.

No matter how wonderful and effective is a foam insulation, the durability of it under climate attacks is relatively small, for today specialists estimate the period of degradation and decay of foam in a maximum of 18 months. The best way to keep your work and insulation of the house is the applix of the facade plaster on the foam. Such protection will allow to preserve the foam insulation of the house, even if the finishing and plaster works were performed with minimal experience and skills.

How best to close the foam from the sun

There are many commercials and the councils of the mountain-specialists that the foam is not afraid of water and frost, does not respond to the humidity of the air, and its only disadvantage is a sunny ultraviolet. In such "tips", it is proposed not to lay the plaster on the foam, but to close it with a screen from a painting mesh and a thin layer of reinforcing adhesive to better times.

So you can not do if the finish of the facade of the house with foam and plaster is planned, then the whole complex of work must be fulfilled in a maximum of one season, and best of all - in two or three weeks, no more. Polyfoam does not give a hermetic layer without plaster, even being laid on a good mineral glue and the projected surface of the walls of the house, it retains heat, but it passes water vapors.

The sequence of work when finishing the facade of foam and plaster is as follows:

The surface of the building walls is ground. If the layer of plaster on brick relatively fresh and not dirty hands, then the primer can not be done, but the feasibility of such saving is small;
Stick sheets of foam foam or facade adhesive mass;
Put on the foam reinforcing protective adhesive with a fiberglass mesh;
Align the corners of the walls and slopes on the windows;
Lay the aligning sublayer plaster;
Wound and clean the base, separate the finished surface of the walls with decorative plaster.

Tip! If force majeure does not allow to complete the entire scope of work and lay a protective finish on a layer of insulation from foam, make at least laying a mesh with a reinforcing adhesive layer and apply a deep penetration with an acrylic base to a dry surface.

Anyway, before plastering the foam outside, in the future it will be necessary to apply the soil of deep penetration, without this operation can not do. It does not affect the properties of foam, since it is made on a water basis, and protect the front surface, lined with foam, from the water and the sun can be very good. But such protection will not replace the full plaster coating, its durability from the strength of 6-9 months, just until the next construction season.

The process of applying a protective sublayer to foam is considered one of the most complex and important stages. In this case, it is impossible to save on materials and work, otherwise cracks will appear when finishing the facade plaster on foam. Therefore, initially recall the glue and the grid for applying protective plaster.

Materials for performing facade plaster

Construction and finishing works are always costs, and sometimes considerable. Consider and buying exactly on the estimate of several species of various plaster mixtures and adhesive compositions, as experienced masters make, it is quite difficult. Therefore, there is a certain temptation to simplify life when laying facade plaster on insulation from foam.

On the market you can find a sufficiently large number of finished adhesives. The famous brands Ceresit, Crayshel, which is simpler - the scenes, the master is produced both universal and specialized adhesive acrylic-cement formulations. The first is cheaper, but they are better not to use. Therefore, to arrange the reinforcement layer for the front plaster for foam plaster, select the following materials:

Special glue for arming plaster reinforcing layer on polystyrene plates. No adhesive compositions for ceramics or stickers of foam on the walls, it is a completely different material;
Fiberglass mesh with a density of 150-160 g / m 2 for an alkaline medium. Such a facade mesh has a special protective coating that improves the adhesion of the fibers with adhesive mass.

The glue itself for arming the reinforcing layer due to additives is distinguished by a pronounced alkaline reaction, it allows the adhesive mass to adhere to the facade walls lined with foam. Any other adhesive mass practically does not stick or sticks very badly to the surface of compressed polystyrene balls.

Protective Facing Technology

To the procedure for calculating the reinforcing layer, it is possible to proceed almost immediately after the crackling of the foam cracks and drying the stains on the installation points of the plastic fungi on the facade of the foam. It is clear that before plastering the foam, the surface must be slightly sanded with a grater to improve the adhesion of the adhesive mass of the reinforcing layer of plaster with expanded polystyrene.

Glue the mesh on the foam under the front plaster accurately and right

Immediately about the technique of laying the reinforcing grid. In fact, the facade plaster is obtained from three layers, the weight of the coating on the foam is quite large. Polyfoam can be deformed, and if the grid is laid incorrectly, cracked will appear on the plaster. Conversely, a coolly laid reinforcing sandwich from glue and mesh is able to keep on the surface of the foam even the most difficult types of facade plasters.

The most common equipment of the netting of the mesh canvas is as follows:

From the total roll, separate mesh canvas are cut in the height of the facade walls with a slight margin of 5-7 cm;
A glue mass of 3-4 mm thick was applied to the surface of the foam on the width of a little more than the size of the web. The tiling of the front surface starts downward down, immediately apply half the height of the run;
The canvas laid along the adhesive layer applied to the foam, and are pressed into the crowd with a wide spatula. It is necessary to put it on the facade surface, it is necessary to stretch and align the cloth;
The last stage is to lay the adhesive masses along the lated grid. To stick the second part of the web, it is enough to overcome the grid, consolidate it on the foam pin and make all the same operations. The entire grid should be hidden under the reinforcing adhesive basis of the facade plaster.

The following canvas stacked with a overlap of at least 5 cm, after which it is covered with adhesive material and thoroughly polished - aligned with a wide spatula. Upon completion of the styling of the reinforcing plaster, the front surface should look absolutely flat and flat, without protruding defects from the foam.

Finishing of corners and slopes reinforcing layer

In any house there are quite a lot of problem places where the facade plaster is experiencing additional loads, these corners and slopes of windows. In addition, the foam at the corners is usually slightly "plays", so the angular zones have to be strengthened, the easiest way to make it laying an additional layer of grid or installation under the facade plaster plastic perforated corners.

The internal corners of the walls are always enhanced by laying additional patch. For this, the reinforcing mesh for plastering is always hardened slightly on the angle line, about 7-10 cm. After the mesh is grouting, an additional tape is cut out of the mesh, they are applied to the angle and are punctured by a foam dual layer of adhesive mass. In order for the reinforcing the sublayer, there are no traces of the reinforcing tape, which can spoil the decorative finish, the plaster is once again passing a wide spatula.

It is imperative to make reinforcement of plaster on foam on the slopes of windows. The technique of laying glue on the grid is similar to the previous case, but there is a nuance - small cuts of the canvas, especially under the plaster of horizontal slopes, you need to mount to the insulation of brackets.

The outer corners of the facade surface should always be strengthened with a perforated corner profile. The angular edges of the insulation sheets are too weak to keep the perfect exterior corner profile on the facade plaster. A profile is installed under the facade plaster in this way. An adhesive mass of a smooth strip of 15-20 mm wide on both sides is applied to the corner line with a wide spatula. The corner profile is pressed into the plaster, and the side canvases are torn to the glue-based spatula.

It is best to put the corner profile, before plastering the foam, with a further fit and aligning the layer of the front plaster, will work much easier. Especially since installing all small front parts is easier before plastering the foam than to suffer in the process of applying plaster.

A more detailed instruction for finishing the facade of foam and plaster is given on video

Laying the leveling layer

The second stage is the alignment of the reinforcing layer with a laid mesh. This is necessary to do, since the front decor on foam without alignment will look very uneven. If the walls of the walls are primed under painting or similar finish with the facade decor, the house will lose the entire appearance. On drying of the reinforced reinforcing sublayer, a couple of days are dismissed.

The first operation is grouting the surface of the reinforcing plaster with liquid adhesive mass. A wide spatula is applied with an aligning front-fingerting unit on the walls. Glue is the same, but the consistency is liquid, so as not to load the insulation with an additional finish weight. In a day, a thin aligning sublayer will dry, and you can move to the rough finish of the facade surface.

No matter how hard the wizard tried, small traces remain on the leveling layer and even distinguishable contours from foam and mesh that need to be lured by sandpaper. Usually used newspaper - "weaving" pasted on a wooden bar. It is impossible to postpone the grout, in a week - two rough plasterers will become solid as concrete. In addition, the risk increases with abrasive finishing material to insulation.

The detailed process of alignment of the facade plaster, laid on insulation of foam, is given on video

Conclusion

Plastering trim, laid on foam, is practically no different from the cement-sand layer on brick or slag block walls. The last stage, as a rule, provides styling of decorative facade finishes. It all depends on the wishes of the owners, for example, in many cases, to reduce the costs that equalizes the plastering sublayer are not closed with a decor, and simply cover the primer of deep penetration. You can return to the question of decorative trim in a year or two or three. Moreover, it will be clearer, as insulation of polystyrene behaves, and whether corrections are needed.