Insert between tiles and laminate. Neat joint between laminate and tile

The competent combination of laminate and ceramic tiles allows you to obtain coatings that are particularly practical, durable and long-term. If you decide to decorate the floor in your apartment using this technology, you need to know how to properly perform a tile and laminate joint without or with a sill.

Where is the tile and laminate combination used?

Most often, materials have to be joined when dividing the space into the kitchen and dining room. Ceramic is used to lay the floor in the work area, while the floor in the dining room is covered with laminate.

However, joints between laminate and tile also occur in other situations. For example, various coverings can be installed in the corridor and hallway.

Ceramic tiles are more durable, so it would be wise to use them in the hallway. It will blend seamlessly into the laminated flooring of the corridor leading to the living rooms.

Note!

If the zoning of the space is performed using podiums (low elevations), then the joints between the tile and the laminate are obtained by themselves.

But making the transition between different materials that are on the same level is somewhat more difficult.

Ceramic and laminate bonding options

There are quite a few ways to implement such transitions, the main options include:

simple adjustment of materials along the border of their contact;
complex prefabricated structures.

The appearance of the coating and its service life will depend on which option you choose.

Single-level joints are performed in various ways:

without a nut;
with a threshold;
with molding.

You can view photos of these docking methods and choose which one is right for you.

Docking with sills

The gates can be aluminum, wood, or other material. Of course, aluminum strips are the strongest and most durable, but they cannot always successfully fit into the design of the room.

Mounting methods can also be different. If an open docking is performed, then all fasteners are clearly visible. A neater and more decorative transition can be achieved with a hidden connection.

If you do not know how to close the joint between the tile and the laminate, pay attention to cork expansion joints. With their help, you can make a neat and inconspicuous joint.

The advantage of joining with thresholds is that they help smooth out the height transitions between tile and laminate flooring and make them look more natural. In addition, they close gaps at the material boundary and prevent debris and dust from entering them.

The main disadvantages of sills can be considered:

elevation above the level of coverage;
the complexity of the selection of planks to match the coating.

Docking without the use of thresholds

Often, a joint is made between the laminate and the tile without a threshold, especially if it has a curved shape. This technology requires special care in its work. Materials must be attached to the subfloor at the same level.

There are quite a few options for sealing the joint between the laminate and the tile.

For connection use:

mastics;
silicone sealants;
construction foam.

With their help, you can make seams of various widths, depths and shapes, choosing the optimal color combination. The disadvantage of this method is that, if necessary, it will be necessary to dismantle the entire joint. In addition, you need to have certain skills in working with such materials.

Note!

It is necessary to carry out the work especially carefully and efficiently.

If these requirements are violated, the connection will not be reliable enough, and it is quite difficult to remove an excessive amount of installation materials from the floor surface.

Features of the technology of joining laminate and ceramic tiles

Before joining materials, you need to clearly understand what effect you want to achieve. A selection of videos dedicated to help you decide how to make the joint between laminate and tile best in a particular situation.

Installation of a nut

The easiest way to connect laminate and ceramic tiles is to use a threshold. The type of fasteners is chosen based on the design of the strip. Often fasteners are included with the nut.

The installation of the threshold strip is done by hand quite simply, which is shown in detail in the photo instructions:

Holes are made in the floor.
Install the dowels.
Attach the nut.

Docking coverings without a nut

First of all, it is necessary to lay the tiles in such a way that the edges of the material protrude slightly beyond the joint border. after the glue is completely dry. It is laid on a ceramic layer with an overlap so that the edges go beyond the border of the transition.

Instructions for making a joint without a nut:

Mark the seam line... If it needs to be positioned symmetrically to the backlit box line, you can use a cardboard box template and a plumb line.
Having completed the marking, proceed with the process of cutting off excess material... Most likely, you will have to partially disassemble the floor.
Then cut off the interfering layer of the tile. You need to work carefully so that cracks and chips do not appear. It is better to dismantle the laminate, which is at the junction, so as not to damage its coating.

Important! To cut ceramic tiles, you need a grinder with a diamond disc.

After cutting off the material, clean the surface and remove the adhesive from the cement screed.
Replace the laminated boards by cutting off the substrate of the required width from the transition line. This is necessary so that the coatings are located at the same level. Sand the material if necessary.
After that, decide how to seal the joint between the tile and the laminate (see also). Using the materials presented above, such as mastic, grout the joint.

In conclusion of the article

Different floor coverings are used for competent zoning, so you can use the advantages of each floor to the fullest.

But how to arrange a beautiful joint? How to connect laminate and tiles? How to make a laminate-tile joint without a sill? The article is devoted to the answers to these questions.

In what cases is such zoning applied?

Tiles and laminates are materials that are not similar in texture, composition and technical characteristics. But they can make great neighbors.

The use of different floor coverings helps to apply the strengths and advantages of each cladding.

Arrangement of the joint

The connection between laminate and tile must be neat and functional.

If you don't think about the joint and leave everything as it is, dust, dirt and other debris will collect in the joint area. It will look ugly, and it will not be easy to clean the seam.
If water gets into the seam, the laminate can swell, adversely affecting the durability of the lining.
Water and moisture getting into the joint will lead to mold or mildew growth.

You can't do without a beautiful joint, but what can it be?

Smooth joint

In the bathroom, tiles are laid on the floor, and the corridor is covered with laminate. The joint between the floor coverings is in the area of the doorway. This is one of the possible direct connection options.

Options for how to arrange an even joint:

Aluminum nut

There are sills of different thicknesses on sale, they will help to hide the joint and visually remove the drops.

Types of aluminum nut:

There are sills of various thicknesses and lengths on sale. If you need to cut the threshold, this can be done with a grinder and a sharp hacksaw for working with metal.

When using a hacksaw, make sure that the hacksaw does not come off and damage the face of the nut.

The groove is measured taking into account the platbands. You not only fasten the threshold between the two extreme points of the door frame, but also cut it under the platband. This will help avoid crevices.

Solid T-shaped profile

Not cheap, but quality always costs money. The profile is suitable for straight seam lines and will hide small differences. The profile is installed on glue, which will ensure reliable fixation.

Flexible metal profile

It is practiced to be installed at curly joints, but it is also suitable for even seams.

Shaped joints of tiles and laminate

Installation of PVC profiles.

Metal profile with good flexibility

The installation of a flexible metal profile is carried out together with the laying of ceramic tiles. The profile has legs that are attached to the base.

The technology is as follows:

Using a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, cut off the desired length of the profile.
With slight efforts of the hands, we bend the profile, giving it the desired shape.
When laying tiles, set the profile so that it is pressed against the tiles on one side and the laminate on the other.
An even and accurate cut is important because the profile will cover 1 cm of each cover.

When tiles and laminates are in different planes

Sometimes zoning means different planes. For example, the shoe area can be raised to a certain height, and the floor level in the bathroom can be lower than in other rooms to avoid a global flood.

For arranging a joint when there are different planes, a box threshold is suitable. Such a threshold will block a drop of up to 3 cm.

Joint without a sill

Many abandon the traditional options for arranging the joint. How to make a beautiful joint in this case?

How professionals join laminate and tile without a sill - video lesson

To make a beautiful joint without a sill, you must first adjust the floor coverings as closely as possible.

Laminate and tiles must be in the same plane. The thickness of the tile adhesive or the thickness of the laminate backing is taken into account.
A connection line is outlined, a layout is made to see how the material will fit.
Ceramic tiles are cut according to the template. First, the tiles are laid, and the laminate is fitted under it.

note

The tiles are always laid in the beginning. You need to wait until the tile adhesive dries, and only then start laying the laminate. If you do the opposite, then moisture and fumes from the tile glue will get under the laminate and lead the board. It will deform and the flooring will deteriorate.

A grinder is used to cut the tiles. Only a grinder can make a curly cut, besides, the tile cutter always makes a slightly arched cut, which will not work in this case.
An underlay can be used to adjust the height of the laminate. There should be no drops, and the laminate is fitted as tightly as possible.
The curved cut of the laminate is made with an electric jigsaw.

Seam options without threshold

Silicone sealant

You can go through the seam of the sealants. It will protect the seam from moisture and dirt.

Cork expansion joint

The cork expansion joint is a thin strip of 2 cm thick made of cork board. It inserts into the seam between the laminate and the tile.

The tiles are trimmed and fitted as close to the laminate as possible. There remains a gap of 2 cm, where the compensator is inserted with a screwdriver. Cork is a material that can be bent, it shrinks and at the same time does not deform from this.

A seam thickness of 2 cm will be enough for tiles and laminate to play. From humidity, temperature changes, the floor covering always "plays", and the cork expansion joint will expand and contract along with the floor covering.

The cork expansion joint should rise no more than 1 mm above the covering. The protruding part can be cut or sanded.

Cover the expansion joint with a tint to match the tile or laminate to make the joint as invisible as possible. Keep in mind that the cork absorbs paint well, so that the color will be saturated.

The cork absorbs moisture so that the expansion joint does not become unusable, it must be covered with a moisture-repellent agent. This will be a special wax, oil or varnish.

Joint between laminate and tile without a threshold using a cork expansion joint - video recommendations

Outcome
The use of tiles and laminate flooring will allow zoning, visually expand the space, and enrich the interior. But in addition to laying tiles and laminate flooring, you need to think about a beautiful and neat seam. The attractive appearance and durability of the cladding depend on the quality of the arrangement of the seam.

In the article, you saw various options for arranging the seam between the tile and the laminate.

Quite often, with functional zoning, you have to dock different floor coverings.

Using special construction solutions or universal plastic joint filler for this is not only a matter of taste and personal preference. Today we will talk about the scope and specifics of work with liquid cork and classic sills.

Levels, edge quality and materials - what we are dealing with

The solution to the question of the most correct way of joining different floor coverings begins with a comprehensive assessment of the work front. The quality of the flooring in different zones, as well as its type, difference in levels and operating conditions, are of primary importance. But first things first.

The fundamental difference between plastic joint fillers (cork, silicone) and rigid linings (sills, click systems) is the property of the latter to provide protection to ends susceptible to moisture, dust and fine debris.

Difficulties are also added by the circumstance when one of the abutting coatings is arranged according to the floating floor system and does not have a rigid attachment to the rough surface. Most synthetic materials such as linoleum and PVC gait do not show pronounced shrinkage and expansion, but difficulties can arise with MDF laminate. In this case, the joint must have a compensatory purpose, that is, its width must be at least 0.5–1.5 mm for each meter of coverage. How a 15–20 mm gap will look like, sealed with a liquid cork - try to imagine yourself.

We have smoothly come to the basic rule of choosing between seam design options. If you want the most inconspicuous seam filled with a plastic compound, take the trouble to bring both coatings to the same level in advance and exclude any differences of more than 0.5 mm. Also keep in mind that the use of plastic aggregate is not always possible, especially in spacious rooms where the floor is finished with wood or materials that have a similar behavior with changes in humidity and temperature.

To summarize, if you are serious about using any plastic aggregate, be prepared for careful processing and precise trimming of the edges of the mating surfaces. It is important to understand that if the finished floor in both zones has already been laid, then, most likely, the moment has been missed, which means that it will no longer be possible to fill the seam with a liquid cork correctly and aesthetically.

Silicone and cork fillers

It is most reasonable to use plastic silicone fillers to mask forced transitions, for example, between linoleum in a room and tiles laid in the corridor. The deliberate use of liquid cork for zoning overflowing spaces is the least profitable, although customers and contractors have different points of view on this issue.

The optimum joint width for filling with liquid cork is from 5–7 to 15 mm. The smaller size will not allow high-quality filling of the joint groove, because the liquid nut includes a fairly large cork crumbs, besides, its consistency makes the filling of thin cracks an extremely tedious process.

Hence, we can conclude that for the junction of tiles and laminates, this transition method is quite applicable only when the laminate extends no more than 10 meters from the junction to the opposite wall, taking into account the 10 mm seam under the skirting board on the back side. We will look at a small exception to this rule a little later.

As for the structure of the coatings to be joined, the liquid cork is definitely not suitable for joining carpet with any other coating, as well as for filling the joints between two linoleum sheets, if the thickness of the latter is less than 3 mm.

Technique for sealing joints with plastic filler

For a qualitative reduction of two levels of dissimilar coatings flush, a certain base point of reference is required. Usually, it is taken as a covering, rigidly fixed to the sub-floor: tiles, porcelain stoneware, ordinary or modular parquet. This part of the floor is to be laid first and carefully leveled to obtain as flat a surface as possible.

The laid cover forms an open end. When laying, close attention should be paid to the accuracy of trimming, however, even the most zealous attitude to this process does not guarantee that the edge will be brought under the general line. Therefore, the open end is machined after laying using a conventional abrasive stone or a circle if the edge has a radius shape. You have already understood that the maximum trimming accuracy at the first stage reduces the complexity of processing at all subsequent ones.

Next, the second part of the coating is brought out (it is usually floating) to a common level with the first zone. For this, either substrates of different thicknesses are used, as in the case of a laminate, or, if the difference in levels exceeds all permissible values, a preparatory screed is poured with a self-leveling mixture.

Here it should be borne in mind that for a high-quality sealing of the seam, it is important that the levels on the adjoining 50 cm of the coating correspond perfectly; further along the floor, slight differences are allowed. Therefore, when leveling the mixture, use home-made thicknessing rails, or bring the dried screed to the desired level by grinding or rubbing with tile glue.

As for the seam filling technique, it is extremely simple. First, all dust and debris is swept out of the gap, then, if recommended by the manufacturer, the joint is opened with a special primer. You just need to fill the gap with the compound, while it is advisable to squeeze the mixture out of the tube in advance into a more convenient container. It is necessary to crush the cork end-to-end as carefully as possible. After filling one to one and a half meters of the length of the seam, the excess cork is removed with a spatula, and the resulting stains - with a wet rag.

Sometimes it is allowed to fill seams with a plastic sill, the thickness of which exceeds 20 or even 30 mm. Such a transition is performed using a strip of solid cork expansion joint, which is immersed in the joint after it is filled with a plastic compound. The protruding excess is easily cut off with a knife after drying.

Grooves and onlays

All kinds of "hard" sills are installed where plastic sealing is not relevant in principle. Level differences of more than 1 mm, torn edges, pronounced linear expansion of the coating - these are just some of the indications for their use.

The material of the flooring is also of decisive importance. For connecting linoleum, a flat docking pad is almost the only reliable transition, not counting the connection by soldering. Solid wood floors also require the use of appropriate fittings (also wood) for reasons of uniformity and solidity.

In general, hard transitions can be divided into three basic types, which have a fundamental difference in the editing process.

1. Direct flush-mounted sills are installed after completion of both parts of the floor covering. Installation is carried out on ordinary dowels, the heads of the nails of which are pre-fixed in a hidden installation groove.

2. Aluminum sills are installed along the installation of the finished floor of both zones. Their wide shelves in the lower part prevent pulling out, but it is almost impossible to bring them under the covering after laying. These sills cannot be replaced.

3. Straight and flexible click systems can be installed both during the installation of the flooring and after it has been completely finished. These sills can be replaced over time if their front part becomes frayed or worn out.

The latter, by the way, is the benefit of rigid butt transitions: they are more resistant to destruction even in areas with high traffic. At the same time, the plastic core can be replaced relatively painlessly for the rest of the floor.

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What is most often put on the kitchen floor? As practice shows, this is linoleum or tile, since the laminate, loved by many, does not differ in wear resistance. But in some cases, tiles and laminate are combined: the first is laid in the working area, the second in the dining room. An excellent compromise in its practicality presents only one problem - the difficulty in finishing the joint between two different coatings. Let's try to figure out how to deal with it.

Close up the joint

Without a nut

The fewer elements on the floor, the more uniform and natural the floor looks. Unfortunately, there are not so many methods for sealing joints without a threshold:

Cork expansion joint. It is nothing more than a strip of cork that is glued at the junction of the tile and laminate. In this case, the edge of the laminate must be treated with a moisture protection agent.

Putty or fugue. Fugue is already necessary when laying tiles, so the volume of its use can be slightly increased. With due diligence, you can also choose the right color for putty. In order for the seams to retain their natural color longer and not get dirty, it is better to cover them with a colorless varnish after drying.

Liquid cork. The principle of operation is the same as that of the putty, with the only difference being the material itself. After drying, it really looks like natural cork.

The joint between the two materials must be smooth when using either of these materials.

With the help of the nut

Runners are the easiest and least costly way to seal the laminate to tile joint. But here, too, there are some tricks, since there are several types of "adapters".

Straight sills. Least of all striking, but their use is limited by one condition: the levels of the laminate and tiles must be practically the same. There are sills with open and hidden fastening.

Corner profile. Suitable for too obvious height differences (from 5 mm), allows you to make the transition smoother.

Bendable sills. Suitable for curved joining of two materials. May differ in the installation method - watch the video.

Photo

The joints are straightforward, but the colors of the tiles and laminates are radically different. A darker lane will indicate a more strict and accurate transition.

Here I had to tinker with the joint, since such transitions require extremely careful sawing of the tiles.

Only the dining area is tiled - so as not to highlight it completely, the joints are sealed with a fugue in the color of the floor.

There are two types of tiles laid on the floor. The second type - under the mosaic - made it possible to choose a threshold of the same width and make the transition less noticeable.

The question of how, after all, to correctly arrange the joint between tiles and laminate, often arises during repairs. In addition to some technical points to which you will need to pay attention, each case may differ depending on the type of premises and the design approach to its design.

Peculiarities

Usually, the need to design a beautiful and practical transition from one material to another arises when decorating the transitions between rooms. For example, in the kitchen, in order not to spoil the laminate in the corridor with moisture, tiles are laid. Less commonly, various floor coverings are used to divide a large room into zones: tiles are laid in places with high humidity or the risk of mechanical damage, and laminate is placed on other areas.

Accordingly, the joint between the tiles and the laminate must be closed so that it does not spoil the appearance of the premises, does not crumble and does not collect dust, sand and other small debris.

So, combining different types of flooring has several main advantages.

Firstly, due to the fact that each material is in its place and performs its assigned function, it wears out less, which increases its service life and strength.
Secondly, such a design gives the owner of the premises the opportunity to save on more expensive materials, giving preference to a product with a lower cost.
Thirdly, with the proper design approach, the transition from one flooring to another within the same apartment can become a stylish and unusual solution.

The main disadvantages are the difficulty of joining the two types of floor coverings and the possible difficulties in the selection of suitable colors.

Types of floors

Today on the market you can find a great variety of types of flooring. All of them have their own characteristics, rules of maintenance, and if the owner decided to use a combined floor in his apartment, then during the repair he will need to take into account the specifics of various materials.

Laminate

Laminate flooring is made by pressing under high pressure a fiberboard or chipboard with a backing and a top layer of film.

It successfully imitates wood parquet, stone or metal.

Ceramic tile

Tiled flooring is usually used in the bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen and, a little less often, in the hallway.

It is quite resistant to abrasion, easily tolerates high humidity and does not expand at high temperatures.

This resistance to mechanical and chemical damage gives the tiles special durability. Ceramic tiles can often be very slippery (especially when exposed to water).

PVC tiles

In terms of its composition, this type of flooring is largely similar to linoleum and consists of similar materials. PVC tiles do not require difficult laying conditions, they almost do not slip, are capable of providing very good sound insulation and, which is important, they are moisture resistant and do not crack. Even in the case of mechanical or chemical damage to one or several tiles, a complete replacement of the coating is not required: it is enough to remove the damaged areas and lay new ones in their place.

At a relatively low price, PVC tiles also have some disadvantages: insufficient environmental friendliness and instability to chemicals.

Porcelain stoneware

The porcelain stoneware flooring is highly durable and hardly scratches. Porcelain stoneware is resistant to a variety of chemicals and can withstand high temperatures. The thicker slabs of this material are able to support the weight of the car, which allows it to be used even in the garage.

It is clear that these are not all finishes. However, the materials listed above for floor cladding are most often used in rooms with various types of floor coverings, and they usually cause the need to design joints when moving from one material to another.

How to dock correctly?

In order to properly dock the two types of floor coverings (so that the joints do not get clogged with dirt, dust and small debris and do not force residents to stumble), you need to follow a few simple rules.

First of all, joining different materials will become much easier if they are of the same thickness (it can be quite difficult to choose this taking into account the colors, patterns and the desired material), or at least not very different.

If the coatings in any case have a drop, then you can remove it (if it fluctuates up to 10 mm) using a sill.

The main method for combining a combination of laminate and ceramic tiles will be the joining of materials and, if necessary, cutting the desired shape.

Modern methods

When combining multi-level types of flooring, the owner who decides to carry out repairs may have some difficulties in combining them.

Butt-laying is possible if both materials have the same thickness and texture.

However, if you want to combine laminate and tile flooring within one apartment, it is very difficult to make a seamless connection, since often the coating turns out to be multi-level.

If the difference in height between the two materials does not exceed 10 mm, then you can safely try to seal the connecting seam with a straight sill.

It will smooth out this discrepancy and can become a stylish design solution: decorative sills are made of wood, aluminum and plastic, and their texture often resembles wood, stone or metal.

If the difference reaches 15 mm, then it is best to use a flexible sill. It is made of plastic with a rubber base, and its installation should be carried out directly at the time of laying the coatings. At the same time, the nut itself is heated with the help of a building hair dryer, which makes it possible for it to take any necessary shape.

In the doorway

It is not difficult to fasten the docking sill in the doorway. At the junction of ceramic tiles and laminate, at intervals of 10 to 15 cm, using a drill, holes should be made approximately 6 mm in diameter.

The nut itself is cut in accordance with the width of the feed, and dowels are driven into the holes, which, as a rule, come complete with the nut.

In the central groove of the sill rail, you need to insert the caps of the self-tapping screws, at the same distance as the dowels, combine and hammer the nut into place.

Varieties of separators

There are many different separators. Their choice, in turn, depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the coating, the height of the difference between different coatings and some other factors.

Transition nut

The use of a transition nut when connecting two different materials is the simplest and most common option at the moment. The sills differ in color, shape and texture; if you wish, you can find a sill that matches perfectly with tiles and laminate.

They are suitable for coatings of different widths and easily hide errors.

Usually these sills are made of plastic, wood or aluminum. Moreover, of the three options, aluminum products are the most durable. The tree wears off quickly and retains its attractive appearance for a little more than three years, the plastic completely deteriorates after an average of a year and a half.

The walkways can be equipped with hidden fixings. Then they will be fixed on the floor using a special fastening strip that will hold them to itself.

However, it is not always necessary for the owner to use a rigid and straight nut. If the design solution includes curved lines and semicircles, then a flexible threshold can be used to join the laminate and tile.

This type of docking profile has two more subspecies: plastic and metal flexible profiles. It is important to note that in the case of using the second type of connector, the thickness of both floor coverings should be approximately the same, otherwise you will have to remove a small layer from one of the materials.

Polyurethane foam or sealant

It is customary to use silicone, polyurethane foam or sealant if the transition between two materials is too wide and deep, and the grout cannot cope and eliminate it. Foam or sealant is poured into the hole and filled. After that, it is necessary to wait for the substance to solidify and get rid of its excess on the surface with a knife. Above it would be a good idea to cover the remaining strip with ceramic grout.

It is important to remember that this method requires both materials to be the same width, otherwise the appearance of the transition will look uneven and unattractive.

Also, during the repair, you should be especially careful, because partial dismantling and correction of the mistakes made will subsequently be impossible.

Cork expansion joint

Cork expansion joints are self-adhesive cork strips that are attached to the edges of laminate and ceramic tiles. This type of separator is elastic, it is soft, which allows it to compensate for the movements of the coatings relative to each other, without damaging either the tile or the laminate.

The cork expansion joint is installed directly on the joint of two coatings.

Being treated with a hermetic composition, it is able to completely prevent moisture from entering the inside.

Liquid cork

The liquid cork will not crack, and because of its structure, it is able to close up even small joints between different materials without damaging the finishing surface.

The width of the seam, which the liquid cork can fill, ranges from 5 to 15 mm. It will simply not be possible to fill a smaller width, because the liquid cork consists of a rather large crumb, and in the case of a larger width, the gap will simply be sloppy and unreliable.

How to fix?

Depending on which variant of the joint design will be chosen by the owner, there are several main ways of fixing the tiles and laminated flooring at the point of convergence.

Porozhek

First of all, you need to install the floor coverings and dock them. The gap between them should not be too narrow (so that a separator can be placed in it), but not too wide.

Holes are drilled in the floor at the transition site at a distance of about 10-15 cm from each other, into which plastic dowels must be placed.

After that, the nut itself is applied to the butt line. It is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Sometimes, if a nut with a hidden fastening is used, a fastening bar is used instead of self-tapping screws. It is installed on the floor, and then its fasteners snap into place on the sill itself.

In addition, there are sills options that are installed without drilling.

For example, it will be enough to cut a variety of flexible metal profiles to the required size and glue them to the joint. The main thing is not to forget to remove the excess glue protruding from the edge of the nut from the surface.

Sealant or polyurethane foam

To begin with, a seam line is marked, which will be hidden by the filler, and the tile is placed so that its leading edge protrudes slightly beyond this line. This is necessary in order to subsequently be able to cut off the excess length and thereby adjust the dimensions of the tiles as accurately as possible.

Then the joint is cleared of construction and household dust, and the laminate is laid on the floor. Its height and width need to be adjusted to match the dimensions of the tile.

Finally, the joint is filled with the chosen agent: sealant, polyurethane foam, less often with glue or grout for the seam.

This method is more time consuming, but allows you to connect two types of flooring without drilling.

Cork expansion joint

The ends of the two materials are ground and adjusted. It is necessary to save them from various chips and cracks, after which the tiles and laminate are located as close to each other as possible.

When the first part of the work is done, the cork expansion joint, using, for example, a screwdriver, is gently pushed into the gap between the materials. Finally, the joint of the two materials and the visible part of the compensator should be treated with a sealant to prevent moisture penetration into it.

Liquid cork

To begin with, the joint between the two materials is cleaned of dust and dirt. Sometimes the gap is pre-coated with a special manufacturer's recommended primer to facilitate the pouring process. Then a cork is poured inside, and its excess is carefully removed with a spatula. After the composition has hardened, the seam must be wiped with a damp cloth.

How to choose the right option?

When choosing an option for decorating a joint between a tile and a laminate, it is worth considering the features of the various dividers and the features of the rooms between which the transition is made, or - if materials replace each other within the same room - the purpose of different zones.

The splice separating the floor coverings perfectly hides the joints between the two materials, although the transition from laminate to ceramic tiles will look quite dramatic.

What is important, the sills help to hide and soften the transition from one material to another and, thanks to a large number of various design solutions, colors and textures, perfectly fit into any room. The sills are best suited to the design of the transition in doorways.

It is worth remembering that there are two types of sills: straight (more resistant to mechanical stress) and flexible (allowing you to make round, wavy transitions between materials). The second type is suitable for zoning a room and will give originality to the appearance of the floor.

As for the material for the connection, then it is also worth paying attention to.

For example, wood is suitable for almost any room, as it has a wide range of colors and stylish, in its own way, classic appearance. But at the same time, it is quite tough and is suitable only for straight sills.

The same problem plagues aluminum products, which are extremely durable and wear-resistant, capable of withstanding mechanical stress.

A much more elastic option is plastic, with the help of which the landlord is able to decorate the floor with various undulating transitions.

In addition, it is distinguished by a huge selection of colors and textures, which allows you to choose a sill that is ideal for any room and is combined with any color of the flooring. Finally, plastic, supplemented with rubber materials, is the most resistant to high temperatures, which allows it to bend painlessly and take the desired shape.

Installing two floor coverings without a sill is a reliable option, albeit a rather risky one.

During the installation process, you need to be very careful, since the slightest mistake and inaccuracy will ruin the appearance of the joint between the materials, make it uneven and ugly. There are several options here: one-piece joint (installed using grout), almost invisible (ideal for places with a small area of contact between materials), joint using a cork expansion joint.