Brick masonry furnace with their own schemes. Stove-rude hand: From a simple country to a two-story house with a sheard mansard

For heating houses, completely different elements and equipment are currently used. However, the most traditional choice is a furnace that can work from a variety of fuel, and may also have different sizes and other parameters. Even fireplaces can be created, but they are not intended for constant heating of the structure. Especially often, the furnace heating is created in a private house, because often the structures are built in a fairly large distance from central heating systems.

The autonomous oven is considered an excellent choice, and at the same time a special heating and cooking surface can be formed, with which the furnace can be used not only to heat the structure, but also for cooking and warm-up.

Also various furnace options can be made with their own hands, so the cost of this process will be minimal.

Basic varieties of equipment

There are many varieties of stoves that differ in various parameters. The most popular are considered:

which can be applied not only for a private house, but also for a bath or other small construction in need of heating, and they can be equipped with various elements for comfortable sleep or cooking;
which can be used exclusively for room heating;
rude, which are a fairly interesting option, are available in them, which allows them to apply them both for cooking and as a heating system.

What are the products equipped with coarse

This furnace has interesting parameters and features. This refers to the first place that the most popular material for creating a design is excellent parameters. These include magnificent heat transfer, so there will be such equipment in the house provide fast and uniform heating.

This material is considered very attractive, so the products received from it perfectly fit into any interior. Particularly relevant is the stove created by do it yourself from ceramic brick, rustic style. Well this furnace approach buildings made of wood.

If desired, such equipment can be additionally decorated with the help of the same heat transfer indicators as brick from this material. However, due to a more attractive and interesting appearance, the resulting design will be perfectly fit into a completely any interior. In this case, you can build equipment that will have the desired color and texture.

Stove structural elements

Furnaces with rude are advanced structures compared to the direct-flow elements. But, at the same time, they are not so difficult to create them, but their the device is considered simple. However, to actually make a high-quality and reliable design, you need to accurately follow the instructions, as well as have at least initial skills work with brick.

See also: Chimney heating in a two-story house

To fulfill all the steps with your own hands, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhich structural elements are included in the equipment. These include:

Infused, which is a special chamber intended for air passage. Usually there is suitable doorwhich allows a person to adjust the air supply. As a rule, between this element of the stove and the camera, where fuel is combustion, there is a grate grid.
The player is the most working chamber that is designed to load and combust the fuel, in it there is a door.
represented in the form of vertically located channels for which it passes heated gas from burnt fuel.
Rude, which is used for cooking, can have different sizes and parameters.
The chimney performs the function of the convector, but its main purpose is the derivation of exhaust gases from the room into the street. It is important that there is a door to allow cleaning the pipe, as well as the damper.

Before creating a design, a scheme of future equipment should be developed and drawn, and it is necessary to approach to this issue with full responsibility and seriousness. After all, it is drawings that are the basis for creating the stove itself. If they are errors or shortcomings, it may lead to the fact that with their own hands it will be a design that will not cope with its main tasks, and maybe dangerous for use.

What materials are used to create a stove

You can make this design from completely different materials. These include:

Brick, which is used for masonry, not only stoves are created from it, but also fireplaces. It is best to choose a ceramic brick, from the appearance of which depends the attractiveness of the final construction.
Clay and sand, which are used to create a solution used to masonry bricks in the house.
The cast iron grate grid used to lay fuel, it can be used for both firewood and coal.
Ruberoid that allows you to create high-quality waterproofing of the furnace.
For various design elements.

Stops of creating stoves with rough

Make this design is not really so difficult, however it is important to know which stages must be produced and for each need to pay a lot of attention:

A scheme of a future design is created. Drawings can be formed independently or with the help of specialists. They need to pay a lot of attention, since they depends on the reliability and safety of the final construction. The scheme must contain the sizes and others. the main parameters of the stoveAnd in it must be distributed in detail. Even if standard fireplaces or rough structures are created, there must still be drawings. The scheme is usually formed using special computer programs, but if there are any skills and experience, you can make it on paper.
Creature foundation stove. Since fireplaces and stoves are most often formed from bricks, they should only be installed on a reliable and solid base. It should have the optimal dimensions and parameters for the furnace, which you plan to erect. The place for the design is determined, the trench of the desired thickness and depth is broken, then the bottom is talked, and the pillow of sand and gravel is stacked. Next, the concrete solution is poured, after which the trench is filled with brick. The foundation obtained should be covered with reference to high-quality isolation. All work is easily executed do it yourself without problems.
The formation of the designs themselves. The stoves or fireplaces are stacked from ceramic bricks, and cement mortar should be used. When creating structures in the house best use during working chamotte powderwhich will not allow the stove to heat up too much during its use. The furnace can be created using different types of masonry. Before use of bricks, soak about 10 minutes in water. During the masonry it is important to do so that there are no cracks and spaces, but it is also not necessary to apply too much masonry solution, and you can also get a poor-quality and uneven furnace.
Installation of rude. On the created row of bricks, the housing has confused, and the door is attached to it.. Best of all, all elements wrapped with a cord from asbestos, after about 4 more bricks. It is necessary to overlap the furnace door. Next are mounted by trees, and after laying the last row of bricks, you can proceed to the installation of the slab, which stacked with the application of the solution.
Installation of chimney, which is usually the tube coming out. It is important at the site of the element through the wall to apply a thermal barrier.

Ovens Heating as a method of heating private home ownership is still popular. Since it is quite difficult to find a professional binder, many country property owners are forced to develop the construction of brick stoves with their own hands.

To build a heating unit in accordance with all the rules and regulations, homeowners will need to be stocking appropriate knowledge and skills, prepare the tools and acquire building materials for a significant amount.

Types of stoves

A brick stove with your own hands for the house can be:

russian;
swedish;
dutch.

Also distinguished furnaces:

baths;
garden;
heating;
heating and cooking;
fireplaces.

Russian oven.

Among the liveshiks, it is considered the most multifunctional construct of bricks. It is equipped with a place to relax, called the Lena. Under it, they have a cooking chamber - a firebox or a fool, under which he was pushed. It should ensure continuous combustion of solid fuel. Such brick furnaces for home with their own hands also have a niche for kitchen accessories and storage of cooked food hot.

Standard dimensions of this type of furnace units: in a height of 2 meters, in length is 2.5 meters and a width of 1.5 meters. Due to the impressive sizes, the Russian oven is able to heat the living space, which exceeds 40 "squares". But it also has a big drawback - there is a lot of solid fuel for its functioning.

Swedish stove

Its sizes are more compact compared to the Russian oven. The height of the Swedish structure of the brick is about 2 meters, and the length and width is not more than a meter. This small brick oven is designed:

for heating rooms;
for cooking food.

A cast-iron plate on 2 burners is placed on the furnace of the Swedish unit, and the overall cabinet is located on the side. In the construction of the stove in the kitchen, we build a stove, and the rest of it is equipped in another room.

A serious disadvantage of the design is a high degree of fire danger. To prevent fire, the Swedt stove is supplied with dampers.

Dutch oven

This type of furnace aggregates must be owned by Russian cookies, they were them invented. The "Holland" is intended for heat supply of premises. The stove is very compact and has a high degree of heat transfer. To completely warm it with its help, the cold room will be required 10 hours.

During the off-season, the Dutch stove with their hands from the brick is capable of holding heat during the day. Its structural device provides high heat transfer due to a winding chimney. In addition, the furnace has a spacious fuel.

"Dutch" is erected only with the use of chimney brick, which accumulates heat quickly, and gives gradually. This building material for building stoves is very expensive.

How to put the furnace and what is needed for this

Having considered the projects of furnaces and making a choice, you can proceed to the next step. In addition to the design design, the chimney design must comply with fire safety requirements, so the stage of preparation for its construction, which implies:

Developing a detailed masonry scheme oven with a slab or without it.
Determination of the construction site.
Choosing materials.
Selection of tools.
Drawing up estimates for construction costs.

In addition to the above events, it is necessary to determine the number of utility workers, and perhaps they are not needed.

From how correctly the project of the house with furnace heating is developed, the final result of construction depends. Now you can not develop schemes - furnace drawings with their own hands, but to purchase ready-made documentation. When choosing such a project, you must make sure that the numbers specified in it also will not prevent the presence of a phased detailed description of the construction.

When the place of placement of the furnace is chosen, first of all, pay attention to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the design of the furnace. Since the process is how to put a brick oven in the country or in the house has many nuances, experienced cooks advise novice crafts to build reduced layouts of future aggregates.

Thanks to this, you can prepare for the upcoming laying and minimize errors and miscalculations. When complex furnace structures are selected - masonry furnaces with their own hands for inexpressible masters, it may be unbearable. In this case, you should seek help to professionals.

Selection and purchase of building materials

Regardless of which type of furnace to be undertaken, the same materials are used - these are bricks, clay, sand. The focus must be given to the selection of bricks.

There are 4 varieties of bricks for the construction of furnace units:

manual molding;
ceramic;
refractory;
silicate.

For facing the unit uses ceramic products. It is desirable to acquire a M-250 or M-500 brick, which is more expensive, but more uniform, the cheaper products. It is able to withstand multiple heating cycles - cooling. Expensive brick has another advantage - excellent molding properties and decorative qualities.

Sand, when it is erected by his hands a brick stove for giving or private household, you need to take clean, without garbage and different impurities and therefore it needs to be sifted through a sieve.

Clay for furnace units is normal, skinny or fat. From what kind of variety is chosen, the proportions of the preparation of the solution and the technology of masonry of bricks are dependent. People are preferred to use clay having normal fat.

Preparation of instruments

To make your own hands oven in the country or in a residential building, you will need different tools: construction, measuring and auxiliary.

From construction tools you need:

for trimming bricks - Bulgarian;
for sifting sand - metal sieve with a cell no more than 2 millimeters;
soviet shovel;
to compact the solution - extending;
for masonry mix - Combined Kerma;
perforator plus nozzle-mixer to it;
for cutting bricks - Molotok-Kirk.

Also need to prepare measuring instruments:

roulette at least 5 meters long;
to control the verticality - plumb;
wooden chimney length about meters;
to check the mechanism of laying - the rule (between it and the wall can not be slots);
construction and flexible levels.

Support tools include buckets, capacity, etc.

Foundation for a brick oven

When we put the furnace with your own hands, first of all provide the distance between the chimney pipe and the roof overlapping, equal to at least 15 centimeters. Then you can proceed to the markup of the foundation, which must exceed the parameters of the furnace structure in all directions by 15 centimeters.

It is better to form it with the arrangement of a general-friendly basis. To serve the oven for a long time, its foundation should not be associated with the basis of home ownership. The fact is that their natural shrinkage is different due to different degrees of loads.

First, the boothes are poured with concrete, and then the foundation for the furnace is erected from bricks. Pre-put a wooden formwork.

When the base is ready, its upper level should be lower than the floor surface for 19 centimeters. The foundation is not built for the fireplace, but carry out the load on the floor of the upper floors. The base will certainly be hydroizing, using rubberoid or only.

Laying brick furnace for home

First of all, you need to study the stove drawings with your hands from the brick. Then the solution is prepared and put the first row with the help of a spatula and a trowel. Often novice homework are confident that the solution should not be "sorry." In fact, on the contrary - the layer thinner, the stronger the brickwork will be.

Work is performed as follows:

One hand hold brick on weight.
Applying light blows, make a mark of the spot.
Holding a brick on weight, perform its sharp and accurate slaughter on the parts according to the stamps.
When you take your hands the furnace on firewood for summer cottages or at home, the first row must be postponed. First, the outer row of bricks are placed, then the middle, and the seams are thoroughly filled with a solution, not allowing the formation of voids.
The initial rows are built from the whole material, while the vertical seams should not match. But then the bricks need to break. They are placed chopped side inside the array of construction. This moment is important in the construction of chimney channels and the fuel. The fact is that the chips will be the place where the soot accumulates, littering chimney.

Features of the construction of Arches and Arches do it yourself

When archings and vaults are built, they also use the drawings of a brick furnace with their own hands for giving or other building. Bricks are laid according to the technology of gradual intake, and a thickness of at least two rows.

The thickness of this overlap cannot be less than 2 rows. For the hole of the furnace use the "lock" display or laying by the "jumper" method - bricks are installed on a metal corner vertically. Metal product can be changed on a wooden frame.

For the pipe structure, a silicate brick is used, capable of withstanding temperature differences and atmospheric precipitation. It is resistant to the acidic medium formed by contacting smoke and water vapor. It is important that in the chimney there is no irregularities and chips. When the furnace design is ready, after 2 - 3 weeks spend the control furnace.

Large and small furnaces with their own brick hands in private homes are popular. But the main thing is to build the unit correctly so that he serves dozens of years.

Despite the numerousness of modern heating methods, its popularity does not lose the stove. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and creating a favorable atmosphere.

However, the furnace will serve for a long time and efficiently, giving heat only when answers to the following questions are obtained:

Where is it correct to place the stove?
What are the necessary materials and tools for work?
What should be a solution for the furnace?
How to competently make the furnace laying?

Where to place the stove?

Thinking on how to fold the furnace with their own hands, it is necessary to place it competently. For this purpose, the following conditions are taken into account:

The walls of the smoke channel are required to be located from wooden structures at a distance of at least 40 cm
The smoke pipe is allowed to output at one level with a skate protrusion if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
If the distance from the skate protrusion to the chimney is 1.5 m and less, the latter should be higher at 0.5 m
If the pipe is removed by more than 3 m from the skate protrusion, its height can be done below, but at the same time the angle between the roof and lines, which connects the upper cut of the pipe and the horse, should not exceed 10 degrees

Read the same manual as independently

The base of the house and furnaces has its own specific features, so it is not permissible to combine them.

Materials and tools

Not depending on the type of the selected furnace, work on their construction is very similar, and the designs themselves have minor functional differences between themselves. From the technical side, they will be distinguished by versatility, degree of return and sizes.

The initial construction materials for the construction of brick furnaces serve:

wire
lime with sand
brick

By purchasing the latter, you need to convince it in the correct form and sufficient firing level.

For the preparation of the solution you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. Equipment equipment will also be required, which can be purchased in the markets:

Necessary doors and dampers
Typers and valves
Grate grilles
Plates with burners, etc.

In addition to the materials and components for the furnace, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb, milk brush, rule, hammer hammer, level, etc.).

Cooking mortar for masonry oven

The solution for the home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. Sand must be sifted through the sieve so that its cells do not exceed 1.5 mm. Clay at this time should be pulled out in water 2-3 days. It will not be superfluous through a sieve (3x3 mm) ready solution. Each cook chooses the proportions for yourself.

Mixing sand and clay, it is necessary to add water and begin to mix the mixture the resulting mixture, as long as the thickness is not formed, similar to a fatty sour cream. The high-quality solution should be placed on the brick of the clock and squeeze the layer of 4-5 cm (recommended seam thickness).

Brick furnace order

When everything you need is assembled, and the foundation managed to frost reliably, proceed to solving the main question How to fold the oven with your own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that allegations of coarse many are a huge set and then only one will be considered - Swedish. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, brick is recommended to hold in water up to 10 minutes.

All information about the furnace should be displayed in the drawings. They can reflect both the design of the entire design and separate parts or cuts. The horizontal dimensions are given on each row.

As an option for the heating of the room, it is possible to use an electric shock ...

The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, the vertical and horizontal. Allowed errors, even a minor eye, they will let them know in the future.

Infused in the niche, it is customary to have on the right side. But that it was easier to remove ash out of it, in the direction of the chamber the inner sides are combined under the cone. Very often will have to use not a whole brick, but its certain part. It is better to cut pieces with a special disk with a diamond spraying, but not to beat with a hammer.

After installing the underwear door, the laying of the second row begins. When this is done with a displacement of 30-50% for greater stability of the structure.

The height of the third row should coincide with the top edge of the door. At the same time, it is necessary not to forget to stick the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside pissed for easier removal of ash.

A number of the fourth fit on the left. First, the door is mounted for cleaning. P-shaped channel is done. Over the roller, you must lay out a square hole, while the door broke up.

The fifth row practically does not have any differences from the fourth, but the hole above the ashist must narrow a little more.

It is necessary to prepare a refractory brick before proceeding to the laying of the sixth row (it will be on the site of the hatching). If there is no such possibility - the usual one will come down. At the same time, it is necessary to open the grate grille to the fifth row. Between it and bricks require a compensating slight gap to 15 mm, which is filled with sand or hall.

In the seventh row it is necessary to overlap the previously educated P-shaped channel in such a way that it formed three new ones. On the sixth row put the door for the furnace.

The eighth and ninth rows are placed similarly to the seventh. They must reach the top of the coil door.

So that the flue gases smoothly passed into the channel from the furnace, it is necessary to comb the bricks that overlap the left channel and the separation partition.

After laying out the tenth row, it is necessary to monitor its strict verticality. A cooking flooring will be laid on top of it, which cannot be seized, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient. The flue door completely overlaps and left two strictly square channels.

The question of how to fold a brick stove with your own hands on half resolved. Cooking flooring closes the flue chamber, leaning on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks, which will contact it, should be coming, forming a gap to 2 cm. A small door is installed immediately and the eleventh row is laid out. The left remains two square channels.

The twelfth and thirteenth rows fit almost equally. The main difference is that at first both square channels are connected to a single one, and in the next row there are again their separation.

The fourteenth row is set by analogy with the previous one, but in it one channel overlaps the flap. In the closed state, it will be possible to use a cooking, not allowing to heat the stove.

In the fifteenth row, the gate is overlap, and the gas chamber door is covered in the sixteenth. To remove odors and the cooking department was ventilated, it is necessary to install the door between it and the already closed valve channel.

In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to put steel stripes over the cooking, which will allow to block the chamber. In the ordinary heating furnace would have to build a domed overlap.

The subsequent two rows overlap cooking, but both square channel remain touched.

Two bricks are put on the surface of the hob on the edge, removed from the rear wall by 40 cm. Immediately, the doors for cleaning and self-equipment are mounted. By analogy, the following series is stacked.

In the twenty-second row it is necessary to overlap the doors. Three longitudinal channels (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively), on the left - all the same two squares are made above the hob. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal canals overlap with a brick laid across. The following row is similar.

By analogy with twenty second, the ranks of 25-26 are put.

In the twenty-seventh row you need to put three bricks on the same distance and removal from the walls. It remains only one square channel. By analogy, the following two rows are stacked.

In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the thermal chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is overlapped with a valve. Subsequent two rows are stacked with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.

It remains to equip a simple chimney for the furnace.

Detailed video instructions for masonry furnace with your own hands

In custody

The co-order of the furnace "Swedish" is one of the most common for today. It not only makes it possible to drop the room, but also cook food. Increasingly, such a design can be found in country country houses.

But the question of how to fold the furnace with their own hands was difficult and there is no confidence in its efforts - before proceeding to work, you should contact the Pechco or a person who has already erected similar designs. He will probably give many valuable tips.

If the construction of a country house is conceived, the most comfortable for a comfortable stay in it, then without a small furnace, it usually does not do, especially if it is planned to use it most of the year. The lack of experience in furnace work should not stop the owners who want to put the furnace on their own. It is just necessary to choose the appropriate, not particularly complex option, the design of which is simple and understandable.

In addition, for a large heating structure, which has an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, in the country house, simply lacks the place. Consider and uncomplicated performed options that are suitable for a small house, and for a beginner bit – in short, the stove laying is simply and practical.

To easier it was to decide on a suitable model, you need to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then, consider several options, stopping on the optimal area and configuration of the premises of the house.

General requirements for brick furnaces

The conditions that the selected design should correspond directly will affect the quality of the heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information on which, on the contrary, it is worth paying close attention. These factors include:

The sizes of the furnace design must correspond to the area to which it is installed, since the heat transfer depends entirely on this parameter.
In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the oven, warming up, give a greater amount of heat, while the indicator of the front and rear walls is lower than 3 ÷ 4 times. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, it is necessary to choose a narrow and long furnace, which can be embedded in the wall between the rooms.

For the efficiency of heating, the T-shaped version of the furnace is often installed. It can only be designed for heating or perform two functions if the model is selected in which the cooktop is provided. Such a furnace is able to heat up to four rooms having a small area.

The following condition that is important to consider is the location of the building inside the house, it should be as rational as possible. So that the furnace was functional, worked as a device for heating and cooking, it must be installed so that the cooking plate goes to the side of the kitchen, and one or both side walls looked into the living rooms.
Choosing a furnace, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms, but also their location and the number of external walls. Determine the choice of furnace on the area of \u200b\u200bits surfaces, depending on the features of the room, this table will help:

Room Square, m²	Not an angular room inside the house	Single angle room	Outdoor room	Parishion
	Surface furnace leaving m²
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

You do not need to be reinsured and choose a massive furnace for a small house, as to warm it, it will take a lot of time and a sufficiently large amount of fuel will need, with all the fact that a significant part of the heat generated is simply "thrown into the pipe". In addition, small designs sometimes work even more efficiently than structures occupying half of the room, since the heat transfer depends largely on the inner structure of the furnace, and not only on its massiveness.
Any, even the most heatary oven, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat generated by it will go through the walls, windows and overlaps. There will be a very large amount of fuel in these to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level.

If it is planned to save on fuel, getting high-quality heating, you should warm the building well and choose a cap of the furnace, which, thanks to the numerous channels, will hold the heat transferred to the living space for a long time.

How to choose the right place for the furnace?

The location of the furnace in the house is determined in advance, even before it is built, in the preparation of the project, it is possible to establish a heating structure in the right area, where heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, it is much easier to equip the foundation for the furnace to build the house, and in terms of work. You must immediately say that the foundation for the furnace must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there should be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, when shrinking (and it will definitely be uneven for different in the mass and area of \u200b\u200bthe structure), one of the foundations can begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it are deformed.

If there are several rooms in the house, the furnace must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls separating the house on the rooms. But, since the foundations of buildings should not come into contact with each other, the inner walls will have to do light, without foundations. This variant is presented on the above scheme.
In some cases, the owners of the house prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since the thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent veil from cold streams.
Placing a flue hatch near the entrance door will save from excess garbage in the living rooms, as they do not have to make firewood or other fuel. However, installing the stove in such a way, it is necessary to arrange the firebox door so that it is impossible to burn it.
The walls of the heating structure should not be adjusted to the walls of the house closely, that is, it is necessary to provide free access to any of them, as they require periodic control for security purposes, and the internal channels of the furnace are cleaning the cameras. Sometimes the furnace is part of the wall of the house, in this case there is a reliable heat metering between it and the ends of the partition.

If the furnace is installed in the already built house, then, planning its location, it is necessary to envisage that the chimney pipe falls between the beams of the attic overlap, which must be at a distance from it at least 150 mm, with the creation of heat insulating "gasket" filled with heat-resistant material. For this, most often around the pipe fix the metal box, which is filled with a grain fraction, mineral wool, vermiculite, or just sand.
The playground in front of the furnace is stove must be styled by heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or a ceramic tile.

You may be interested in information about what is

Models simple on the design of small brick stoves

Brick ovens of small sizes do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emerged alternative heating options, as many of these new products are too expensive, while others are inaccessible in country conditions. The traditional stove for Russian homes or will help out in any situations - it will warm up, and cook cooks. Therefore, if gas is not supplied to the house, and the electricity is often disconnected or just want to save on it, it is worth choosing a furnace, the design of which includes a cooking panel. Knowing about the demand of models of small sizes, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed below.

Oven "Kroch"

The name of the model "Kroch" in itself speaks of the size of this furnace, and it is suitable for a residential building with any square. Moreover, when the design is properly installed, it is quite capable of dropping not one, but two rooms and the kitchen. For a cottage house, this compact stove will be the perfect option, as it can create in it in spring and autumn in it, as well as in crude or cold weather in summer.

This stove is called "Cooking", because it is easy to design, and with a serious approach may well be built even a novice master. The furnace has very small sizes, only 640 × 770 mm at a base, so even for a small room, where it is decided for it to highlight the corner.

The designer of the furnace A. Sushkov successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so "Kroch" will perfectly fit out not only in the cottage room, but also will decorate its cozy interior of the private house. This furnace is designed for heating one or two rooms with an area of \u200b\u200b18 ÷ 20 m², and has the following characteristics:

Furnace parameters	Numeric values \u200b\u200bof parameters
Width and Length Based	3 × 2.5 bricks or 640 × 770 mm
The height of the design to the pipe	2030 mm
Weight of the furnace	1260-1280 kg
The depth of the furnace	746 mm
Kpd.	Up to 70-75%
Heat transfer at one-time furnace	1760 W.
With a three-sided firebox	2940 W.
Cooking panel	SingleForch

The designer well thought out the rationality of the furnace, so it gives excellent heat transfer for its small size. In the process of the furnace of this model, its lower section is heated, and the "cap", which is in the upper part, retains the highlighted heat and slows down its chimney care. The furnace is equipped with a "summer" stroke, which allows you to heat only the hob, without heating the entire design, which is especially important in the warm season. "Krocha" has three design options, which differ in each other by the arrangement of the cooking plate relative to the furnace, but most often used improved and most convenient type, in which the stove and the furnace are located on the one hand. Such a location is convenient because the furnace can be installed in such a way that the furnace and stove will be in the kitchen, and two other walls, if you integrate them into the partition, heat the two rooms through the wall from the kitchen room.

In order for the furnace to serve as long as possible and was safe, its fuel chamber is laid out with fire-resistant chamotte brick. Such walls are withstanding not only wood heat, but also that fuel as coal, briquettes and peat.

To the level of the plate, the furnace has smooth walls, and above the heat door, under the cooking stove, throughout the perimeter of the structure, is laid out forward by 30 ÷ 35 mm, a row that shares the design into two parts: the upper, air-gas and lower - fuel. In the top of the furnace there are channels for circulation of heated air. They contribute to the highest possible retention of heat in the furnace, without letting it go to the pipe immediately.

In theory of the developer, this furnace should be equipped with a firing door with refractory glass, through which flames are perfectly visible. Therefore, if the "kroch" desires can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced by a conventional cast-iron option.

Since the furnace has a small size around the perimeter, it will require less consumables for it.

	Size in mm	Number, pcs.
Shamotny Brick Sha-8		21
Red brick (without chimney pipe		352
Figured (Rounded) Red Brick		124
	350 × 250.	1
Glass cooker door in the cast iron frame (DP-308-1C)	210 × 250.	1
Cast iron puff door	140 × 140.	1
	410 × 340.	1
Metal sheet for flooring before furnace	500 × 700.	1
Smaller valve	130 × 250.	1
Steel corner	40 × 40 × 5 × 520	4

Compact model furnace - "Baby"

The main advantages of the model is its small size, component of 505 × 760 mm at the base. Well, a small weight, only 360 ÷ 365 kg, allows you to install construction to a strong ferricsolated wooden floor. A small furnace has a relatively thin walls, so, heating, quickly begins to give heat into the room in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.

When laying this model, the oven is important to consider one point - in the first lower row of the back wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, to lay it without a solution. It is necessary to do so that after completing the masonry, the brick could be pulled out and clean the bottom part of the furnace from the fallen solution. In addition, the resulting hole will help to dry the finished design faster. Then, the brick can be installed in the place already per solution.

If the furnace is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid before masonry. Usually it is used for this asbestos sheet with a thickness of 5 mm, which is closed from above with a metal sheet or rubberoid and an additional solid layer of brickwork. In addition, it is necessary to remember that the metal sheet must be necessarily accumulated before the furnace or the ceramic floor tile.

The first protostic of the finished oven should be carried out with light fuel - it may be paper or straw. After the furnace is droplet, its doors and valve open for ventilating and final drying, which should be carried out at least 7 ÷ 9 days.

After drying, the oven is recommended to bother. The question arises: . The smoke layer will immediately appear on the layer, in the event that small gaps remained between the solution and bricks. Smoke will leave black or gray stripes on the whitewash, which will reach from the defective suture. With the appearance of such traces, the seam, from which they proceed, it is necessary to completely clean from the frozen solution and fill out a new one, but more carefully and neatly.

You may be interested in information on how to do with step-by-step instructions.

If it is planned to make a decorative finish of the outer walls "babies", then you can start it only after two or three months of operation of the furnace.

The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be removed into the street in three ways:

Having lifted the brick masonry of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it through the attic and roof of the house;
By imagining the steel pipe and connecting it with a native chimney;
The battered tube can be removed through the wall, pre-secure the hole of its passage by heat-resistant material.

This scheme will help to understand the design of this model of a brick furnace, as the number of rows and the configuration of chimney channels are well visible on it.

The main characteristics of the stove "Baby" are as follows:

Furnace parameters	Numeric values \u200b\u200bof parameters
Width and Length Based	505 × 760 mm
The height of the design to the pipe	725 mm
Weight of the furnace	360 ÷ 370 kg
The depth of the furnace	737 mm
Chimney Channel Size	100 × 100 mm
Kpd.	Up to 70-75%
Heat Pot.	1210 W.
Cooking panel	singleForch

To build the stove "Baby", the following materials and finished elements will be required (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Number, pcs.
Chamotte Brick Sha-8 for firebox		37
Red brick		62
Cast iron puff door	140 × 140.	1
Cast iron cooker	210 × 250.	1
Single-mounted cast iron plate	410 × 340.	1
Grid grater grate	350 × 200.	1
Smaller valve	130 × 250.	1
	550 × 800.	1

Prices for chammatory brick

chamotte brick

It is necessary to note that this model is easily improved, despite its compactness. To its design, some masters managed to add a brass cabinet and a water heating tank. In such a configuration, the "baby" can be used as a bath oven.

Perhaps you will be interested in information about what is mini

Heating stove with a small base area

This mini-furnace model has only one, heating function. It can be used to install in the country in the event that, besides it, an electrical or gas stove is provided for cooking, and there is no need for a cooking panel. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.

She is suitable for a private house, in which you need to drop two neighboring rooms, by building the stove into the wall between them.

The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the oven have a sufficiently large area, therefore, heating, they will become a kind of "battery" in the size of the size of the mixture, which quickly and efficiently transmit heat into the room. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, and 210 W accounts for the front and rear wall of them, and on the side - 895 watts.

The heating furnace has a more complex inner structure consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the furnace has a decent height, then the material for it will need more.

The characteristics of this model of the mini-furnace consist of the following parameters:

In this case, the design of the furnace, as well as the structure of the "crumbs", can be divided into two departments: the upper - gas feeding, and the lower - flue. The upper part of the furnace is "Cap", consists of vertical channels, interconnected horizontal. Thanks to this feature, warm air is delayed longer inside the structure, having warmed the entire area of \u200b\u200bits side walls.

To build this model, the materials listed in this table will be required:

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Number, pcs.
Red brick		260
Chamotte Brick Sha-8 for a filling department		130
Grid grater grate	250 × 400.	1
Cast iron puff door	140 × 200.	1
Cast iron cooker	200 × 300.	1
Clean doors	140 × 200.	2
Smaller valve	130 × 310.	2
Ruberoid leaf for waterproofing	1000 × 600.	2
Metal sheet for flooring under the furnace and in front of the furnace	500 × 700.	1

For simplicity of work, the wizards use special schemes-coaches to which it is necessary to navigate, performing the masonry of each row.

Prices for smoking valves

smaller valves

This scheme-order shows the masonry of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. The construction can be carried out on the equipped foundation or on the prepared waterproof concrete floor. Since the design is sufficiently massive and bulky in height, install it on the wooden floor will not work.

Ruberoid is placed under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the leveling of the first row, on the waterproofing material you can draw in chalk using a long ruler, the boundary of the base.
By producing a masonry of the first row, it is impossible to forget that the horizontality and verticality of the walls of the furnace will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, you must prepare the control instruments - a plumb and the construction level. Some masters practice and stretch the horizontal cords for each of the rows.
As you can see in the diagram, the door is mounted on the second row, it is formed a chimney vertical channel.
On the fifth row of the masonry, an installation of a grate grid is made, which will block the confusion chamber and denotes the bottom of the cooler camera. Starting with the fifth and ending the 15th adjustment, the masonry is performed by chamoten brick.
On the sixth row, in front of the grate grid, it is installed and fixed with a wire cooker.

Prices for rubberoid

ruberoid

The following scheme represents the order, starting from the 13th and ending the 24th nearby. It shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and the furnace chamber, so it is very important to produce masonry in accordance with the scheme. Otherwise, all work can be spoiled, and it will have to redo it.
After completing the masonry of the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, the clay-cement mixture is laid in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Next, up to 25 rows, the masonry is made according to the order scheme.

The bottom of the second cleaning chamber is drawn up on the 25th row. To do this, on top of the brick masonry of the 24th row is laid out a layer of clay-sand mixture. Then mounted the door of the camera cleaner.
On the 28th and 32nd rows, two smoking valves are stacked, with which you can adjust the craving.
The remaining rows are stacked according to the scheme, and with the 35th row begins the masonry of the chimney pipe.

Heating-cooking "Swedie" - a detailed description of the furnace masonry

General description and necessary materials

The final section will be presented a fairly popular model of the Furnace - "Swedish". It is chosen for a detailed description, since with ease of design and compact size is a multifunctional and very comfortable in operation.

This version of the heating and a cooking furnace has a good location of all functional elements - they are placed on one face of the structure. Therefore, such a "Swede" is usually installed in such a way that the cooking plate, oven, drying niches, and, of course, the coil chamber went aside the kitchen, and an even rear brick wall, which greatly warms up during the firebox - in the living room.

The dimensions of this design are 1020 × 885 × 2030 mm, with a capacity of 2750 kcal / hour, so the furnace is able to heat one or two rooms with an area of \u200b\u200bup to 30 square meters. m.

The presented option "Swedes" was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating a country house, the size of 4000 × 7000 mm, erected from silicate brick or blocks. However, this model is suitable for houses with other sizes, which the parameters of its heat transfer are indicated.

Firewood, as well as other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this furnace.
This model uses only the inner lining of the furnace chamber and regions located near it. Therefore, chamoten brick will not disturb the aesthetic species of the facade of the furnace made of high-quality red bricks. The external finish is not provided.
So that the furnace was effective and corresponded to the characteristics of the heat transfer, its walls should be relatively thick (in the Pollipich), so the installation of bricks on spoons is not allowed.
In this design, the masonry of the drying chamber is required.

If it is decided to take advantage of this development, to begin with, it is worth considering the table of the necessary materials and calculate their cost for your area of \u200b\u200bresidence.

Perhaps you will be interested in information about how best to use when erecting fireplaces and stoves.

Table of materials that are necessary for the construction of the heating and cooking "Swede":

Name of materials and components	Size (mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
Red full-length chimney brick (excluding the height of the pipe)	250 × 120 × 60	551
Shamal refractory brick sh-8	250 × 124 × 65	31
Door for confused	140 × 250.	1
Fire door	210 × 250.	1
Doors for cleaning cameras	140 × 140.	3
Oven	450 × 250 × 290	1
Cast iron cooking two-air cooker	410 × 710.	1
Colonnik	200 × 300.	1
Smaller valve	130 × 250.	1
Steaming valve	130 × 130.	1
Steel corner	45 × 45 × 5 × 1020	1
Steel strip	45 × 45 × 5 × 700	1
Steel strip	45 × 45 × 5 × 905	5
Steel strip	50 × 5 × 650	2
Shelf for dryer	190 × 340.	1
Metal sheet overlap of drying chambers	800 × 905 × 0.5 ÷ 1	1
Metal sheet prestope	500 × 700 × 1.5 ÷ 2	1
Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements.	5mm thick	1

Step-by-step instructions for masonry heating and cooking "Swede"

Illustration	Description of the Procedure for conducting work
	The first solid row consisting of 28 red bricks must have a perfectly smooth surface and straight angles, as it is the basis for which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented.
	The second row is laid out of 28 ½ red bricks, also solid masonry, but its drawing has several other configuration. This moment must be taken into account, conducting work, because the seams between the lower first row masonry should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, bricks are reported to be laid in disintegration, with seams overlap.
	The third row begins the formation of a lower warm-up camera, which will be located under the oven, and pissed. Vertical smoke channels begin to form. After laying out a row, leave peculiar windows to install the doors of recumminers for vertical channels, and also pissed the bottom warm-up cameras. After completing the installation on the installation of this series, cast-iron doors are fixed in the windows. After that, work is performed inside the design - two integers and two three-fourth bricks are mounted on spoons. Moreover, the brick installed in the right vertical channel is shredding an angle for more unimpeded air circulation. In addition, the fourth part of the refractory chamotte brick is installed in the first chimney - in the figure it is highlighted in yellow. For the masonry of this row, ½ chamotte brick and 14½ red.
	Fourth row. At this stage, channels and cameras continue to be formed, according to the scheme, and the chimney channels remain united. For a number it will take ½ chamotte brick and 14½ red.
	When working on the fifth, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the bottom of the coil chamber are laid out with chamoten brick. Moreover, in a brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying a grate grid. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are separated with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 chamotte and 16 red bricks.
	The sixth row is laid out in the drawing. At this stage of the second and third smoke channels are divided into each other, and now three separate channels should form in the back of the furnace. The basis under the oven and the inner walls of the fuel is laid out with chamoten brick - it is installed on spoons. The wall between the niche for the oven and the fuel chamber is erected from Quarters of chamotte brick. Next is the mounting stage of the furnace, also left for her window between bricks. The door frame needs to be overtaken asbestos, so that the compensation gap remains between it and brick to expand the metal when heated it. Temporarily door can be pushed by stacks of loose bricks until it is fixed tightly the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, a glass cabinet is installed, also tested to asbestos. For the masonry of this series and internal arrangement, NIS will require 13 red and 3½ chamotte bricks.
	For greater visibility, this picture shows the sixth row with the installed box of the oven.
	The seventh row continues to form the chamber of the furnace and the oven - the inner lining is carried out fire-resistant, and the outer masonry is red brick. Chamotted brick is installed on spoons, red to bed (plafhmy). For work it will take 13 red and 4 chammed bricks.
	On the eighth row, the first chimney canal is separated from the camera, where the root of the oven, chamoten bricks. The rest of the masonry comes along the presented scheme, and it uses 5 chamotte and 13 red bricks.
	Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the furnace chamber is overlapped with bricks. The remaining works are made according to the scheme shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 chamotte and 13½ red bricks.
	On the tenth row of masonry overlap the oven. The wall between the brass cabinet and the furnace is not laid out. In a refractory brick, installed on the inner perimeter of the front of the oven, a step 10 × 10 mm is cut, designed to lay the cast-iron hob. For this row, 4½ chamotte and 15 red bricks will be required.
	Having a tenth row, on the step, carved in the chamotone brick, the asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter of the inner space. Then, the cooking plate itself is mounted - it must be located on the same level with the outer walls of the furnace, built of red bricks. Before the stove stove, on the front wall, the steel corner is mounted (45 × 45 × 1020 mm), designed to protect the brick angle from damage and general strengthening of the row.
	The walls of the cooking chamber are formed on the 11th row. The gap, which formed between the hob and the right wall of the furnace, is laid by brick, which is mounted across the masonry of 10 rows. To work, you need to prepare 16 pieces of red bricks.
	For the 12th row, 15 red bricks will be required - the masonry passes through the submitted scheme.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the definition scheme. For the 13th row, it will take 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the lower row should be blocked with a whole brick, and therefore the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th.
	The 15th and 16th rows also stacked according to the search scheme. It is necessary to prepare for them: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks.
	After completing the masonry of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be overlapped with three steel corners with a size of 45 × 45 × 905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the camera, two corners are stacked, vertical walls to each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a 45 × 45 × 700 mm strip is overlapped by the front of the camera. These elements form a reliable support for overlapping the chamber with bricks, so the corners must be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other.
	The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which overlap the space of the hob. Moreover, in the left left corner of the overlap, a hole for extracting vapors from a cooking chamber is left - its size should be a pollipich. In addition to overlapping, the laying of vertical channels continues.
	The 18th line is laid out almost solid, but exhaust and vertical channels remain open. It will take 25 bricks for work.
	After that, a steel corner of 45 × 45 × 905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is designed to strengthen the overlap of the exhaust chamber window, as it should withstand two rows of top masonry.
	On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as the continuation of the ventilation channel intended for the removal of vapors from the cooking bottom chamber. The work goes according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks.
	The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and mounted according to the scheme shown.
	The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the scheme shown.
	The 22nd row is laid out of 16 red bricks.
	After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate is mounted on a small drying chamber with a size of 190 × 340 mm, which will perform the role of a heated shelf.
	23rd row. At this stage, the walls of chimney channels and drying cameras continue to rise. On a brick, stacked above the steam channel, a cutout is made, which will be mounted by a valve, adjusting the heating of the hob. The next step on the prepared landing place is stacked, having a size of 140 × 140 mm. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks.
	The 24th row is overlapping the ventilation valve, as well as the combination of the first and second chimney channels. To work on this, it takes 15½ bricks.
	On the 25th row, the three vertical channels are combined into one. For this number it is necessary to prepare 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and stacked on the demonstrated scheme.
	Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers overlap the steel corner having a size of 45 × 45 × 905 mm, and two steel stripes in size of 50 × 5 × 650 mm. The corner stacked on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the stiffness of the structure, as well as, along with steel stripes - to create the base under the overlapping chamber of the steel sheet.
	From above steel stripes and angle, metal sheet of 800 × 905 mm is settled. It overlaps the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation channels, except for one chimney channel, to which smoke from all other channels will come. A chimney pipe will be erected over it.
	On the 27th row on top of the metal sheet, a solid brickwork is suitable. It should be in frontimeter of the cross section of the furnace by 25 mm. For laying this row, 32 bricks will be required.
	The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and stands out for its limits by another 25 mm. The chimney hole remains open. To calculate this series, 37 red bricks will need.
	For the 29th row, 26½ red bricks will be required. They are laid out with an indentoceration of 50 mm from the edge of the previous row, in essence, leading it to the size of the perimeter of the furnace.
	The 30th row of masonry of the furnace is already the first series of chimney naval tube. The series consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of the side bricks stacked in this series, a step 10 × 10 mm is cut - it will serve as a landing destination for a chimney gate, in size in 250 × 130 mm. Further, the flax solution is mounted and the frame of the gate.
	The 31st row is the second series of chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney valve, thus fixing it from above. The series also consists of 5 bricks. The above will work on the construction of the chimney pipe.

On the lower circuit with a context of the design of this furnace, the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products is shown. It is clearly clear that hot gases, thanks to the vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-hot surface heat is effectively transmitted to the heated room.