How to properly connect the oven to the electrical network. What wire and circuit breaker do you need? How to choose and correctly install sockets for hobs and ovens? Which socket should the oven be plugged into?

It depends on which hob you have in mind. The other day I installed and connected such a panel in my kitchen. I have a Bosch PPS 816 panel, it is gas and only needs electricity for ignition and operation of the anti-leakage valves. And what is most interesting about the delivery is that the plug for the socket is not included. A wire with three insulated conductors comes out of the plate; it is clear that these are phase, zero and ground. The edges of these conductors are crimped and designed for direct connection to home wiring using splice blocks, blocks or terminals.

Socket for hob and oven

Well, considering that the hob is a built-in appliance, it practically does not need an outlet at all. You can connect an electric or induction panel in the same way, only here you need to pay attention to the power consumption and take wires of the appropriate cross-section and connecting devices of the same characteristics and sizes. Well, if there is still a need to install an outlet, then it is better to take a high-quality one made in Germany or another European country, but not China. And it’s even better to install our domestic ones, they are somehow more designed for our domestic voltage, surges and outages, and we have always had quite powerful devices.

In general, to be honest, it is not necessary to make a socket on the hob; you can simply connect the wires by twisting them and soldering them, it is very reliable. Well, if you need an outlet, then it must withstand sufficient power, somewhere around 25-32 amperes, at 220 volts. The hob consumes up to 7-8 kW and requires a separate cable core with an automatic input device. Sockets can be with three or four contacts, single and two-phase, respectively. Based on the number of phases you have, you need to select a hob and an appropriate socket.

An electric hob is a fairly powerful consumer of electricity; it requires not only a good socket, but it is also advisable to run a separate electrical wiring line from the panel board, installing an individual switch for it, or a switch with safety plugs or circuit breakers.

The socket must be grounded, now all plugs come as they say “Euro” - that is, they have thick contacts and a third grounding contact - this is what a “Euro” plug and a socket for it look like - the socket must be installed with a marking of at least 16 amperes.

How to choose and install a socket for the hob and oven

An electric oven is a very popular piece of equipment in the kitchen. However, it must be installed correctly and connected to the electrical network. What is needed for this? A separate outlet, because the equipment is characterized by high power. Let us further in this article discuss how to select and install a socket for your cooktop and oven.

Choosing an outlet

Examine the quality of electrical wiring

After the selected model has been purchased and delivered to your home, you need to analyze the quality of the electrical wiring. If it is very old, in most cases it will not be able to handle the same load as an electric oven. No extension cords will help.

What to do in such a situation? Experienced specialists strongly recommend replacing the old wiring to turn on the oven with hob.

If this is not possible at the moment, you can purchase a separate power machine. Such a power unit will respond quickly in unforeseen circumstances.

If there are no problems with the electrical wiring, then you can proceed to choosing an outlet for the purchased oven with hob.

Selection rules

The socket for the hob and oven must be of high quality. The service life of both the product itself and the oven with hob depends on this fact.

The abundance of different types of outlets in stores can surprise a person who is not prepared in this regard. Many brands create quality products of this kind. For example, Legrand or Bosch. But there are also many products of unknown origin on the domestic market.

That is why it is important to choose the right option that will meet all the requirements for such products.

Variety of sockets for ovens with hobs

How do you know which Bosch or Legrand socket you need? To do this, you need to consider the types of such products.

Today you can purchase several types of sockets:

For wiring built into the wall, you should choose an internal type product. It is mounted in a hole in the wall surface in such a way that only its body remains visible;
For wiring laid outside, it is worth choosing a surface-mounted type of socket. It is installed directly on the wall surface.

Main criteria

The main parameters for choosing one or another outlet option in this case will be the following factors. Let's talk about them in more detail below.

Housing protection degree

To understand which socket is needed, you need to study the special markings on its body. So, “A” and “B” are digital values of the degree of its protection. Look, the Legrand socket for the hob and oven is shown in the photo below.

“A” indicates the diameter, which is closed from the influence of external factors, and “B” demonstrates the quality of protection of the product from high humidity. In addition, it is imperative to analyze the presence or absence of a grounding contact. If you have a good quality Legrand product in front of you, it will have a grounding contact. Cheap, short-lived options do not have this option.

Plug quality

This factor is very important for heating equipment with a hob for the home. Good Bosch connectors have springs, which add greater rigidity to the structure and thereby ensure a better connection.

If you choose an option with a standard connector, the quality of the connection between the plug and connectors will soon become unimportant. What does this mean in the future? Heating may occur or the socket may break, which can also cause the oven and hob to break down.

Connection method

It is important to analyze how the electrical wire is connected to the outlet. Choose the option that has the largest contact area between the wire and the socket contacts. If you install this version of Legrand, then there should be no problems with its operation.

Smell

Cheap plastic has an unpleasant odor, so you should avoid such products. Otherwise, breakdowns of the oven with hob cannot be avoided.

For example, the Legrand socket for the hob and oven or Bosch products are of high quality and odorless. However, such a product costs more than the Chinese versions.

Availability of inputs for several plugs: single, double

When the hob was purchased separately from the oven model, it requires a separate connection. You will need a double socket. If the equipment is combined and has one plug, then a double socket is not required.

How to install an outlet and connect the oven?

To begin, choose a convenient location for the outlet. The best option is below the level of the kitchen countertop. Then access to it will be easy. Although this is not a prerequisite, in principle the place for such a product can be anywhere. But not near the hob.

To connect the equipment without any problems, carefully study the diagram for connecting the electrical wire to it. The main thing in this matter is to correctly identify the terminals. Look for the wires on the back of the device. If everything is the same color, then you only need to distinguish the phase. This can be done using a special indicator-type screwdriver. The phase must match to phase, zero to zero and ground to ground. Then there will be no problem with connecting household equipment.

How to connect the hob and oven to the same outlet

December 24, 2017

The old electric stove was connected to an outlet, which was connected to a cable of a certain cross-section. This wire led to a distribution box, where it was connected via a machine to the power cable coming from the substation.

How to connect the hob to a single-phase and three-phase network

That is, the connection diagram is quite simple. But the days of free-standing cooktops are gradually disappearing. They have been replaced by built-in appliances, in which the panel and oven are already separate elements. Each of them has its own power cord and plugs. And since there is only one socket, it will not be possible to insert two plugs into it at the same time.

Connection options

It seems that the solution is located on the surface: connect both power wires from the oven and the panel into one plug and insert it into the socket. The option is essentially incorrect.

A cable with a cross section of 3x6 mm is laid from the distribution panel to the kitchen, and a 32A circuit breaker is installed in the panel.
The power cable for the hob is exactly the same.
Cable cross-section for oven 3X2.5 mm. And it requires a 16 A automatic machine.

What can happen if such a twist is made. There are several options: the oven may burn out, because a 32 A machine is installed in the panel, its power cable may burn out, no one knows how the oven will behave in general. In general, this connection option is immediately rejected.

The correct connection is separate sockets for each device. But here another problem arises. How to make a branch from the main power cable 3x6 to the supply cable to the oven 3x2.5. You can’t do it directly, because if a thin cable starts to overheat, the thick cable’s protection simply won’t respond. The solution is quite simple, since the market today offers various devices with which you can neatly and reliably connect wires and cables of different sizes.

What you will need for this:

Plastic box for 2-4 modules. Choose those that already have standard buses for zero and phase. If there are none, then you will have to additionally purchase these tires and install them in any convenient place inside the box.
A two-pole circuit breaker that will perform both its functions and the functions of the terminal block. It is better to choose ABB S200 series machines. The thing is that two wires fit into their clamps at once.
And for our design this is exactly what is necessary.
A 16 A socket into which the plug from the oven will be connected.

Assembling the connection diagram

So, all the materials are ready, you can proceed to assembly. Here is the connection diagram for all devices.

A two-pole circuit breaker is installed in the box. The machines have one feature - the ability to connect devices to them from different sides. That is, it does not matter where the supply cable is inserted and where the outlet cable is inserted.
On one side, the phase and zero from the supply wire for the oven are connected to the machine. Since the machine is selected for 16 A, it will accordingly turn off the oven if high currents appear in it.
On the other hand, the modules have exactly the same phase and neutral, only two wires. One will connect to the hob, the second is the power wire from the distribution panel. That is, this is the wire that was connected to the old outlet. In this case, the hob plug is cut off and the connection is made directly to the machine. By the way, some stove models are not equipped with forks. But for the oven it is better to install a separate outlet. It can be located inside the box (six-module) or be mounted on the wall next to the device.
All that remains is to connect the grounding circuit, for this purpose the busbar was installed inside the box. That is, the grounding wire coming from the distribution board, the grounding from the oven and the hob are simultaneously connected to it.

You can make the connection differently. To do this, you only need a 16 A machine, through which the oven will be connected. But in addition to the grounding busbar, you will have to install an additional busbar for phase and zero in the box. That is, there will be three tires in the box, so for this you will have to choose a larger device. For example, for six modules.

The following are connected to the phase bus: the supply wire (meaning its phase wire), the supply wire of the hob and the wire connected to the machine.
The zero bus is connected to the zero from the supply wire, from the hob and the wire going to the socket for the oven.
A wire is drawn from the machine to the socket.

It is better to install the box somewhere below the base of the kitchen unit so that it is not visible and so that no one touches it.

In principle, these are the most correct decisions in this situation. But there is a better option. If you are renovating your apartment and decide to purchase built-in appliances, then leave the old cable for the hob. And for the oven, draw a new one with the required cross-section. And install a separate 16 A circuit breaker on the line. That is, you will have two sockets on the wall. Each one powers its own device. This is an ideal option for connecting an oven and hob.

Let us add that today electrical circuits are equipped with various types of protective devices, where the machine plays an important role. It turns off the power supply to household appliances if an increased current has formed in the network. This current burns out the supporting electrical circuits. But there is one more device, the installation of which is considered mandatory today. This is an RCD (residual current device).

It is necessary so that a person does not get an electric shock when there is a breakdown in the electrical circuit, and the voltage is transmitted to the metal housings of the same oven or hob. If a person touches the metal, he gets an electric shock. If there is an RCD, then it takes over these stray currents. This protective device can be installed inside the distribution board or near the outlet where the box was mounted.

Sockets for the hob: how to install it yourself

So, you have become the proud owner of a hob and oven. But how now to connect them to the network? How to install these products correctly and safely? You will get the answer to this and much more from our article.

First of all, we note that ovens differ in the heating method. There are electric and gas ovens. The gas cabinet is suitable for absolutely any kitchen. It is safe and easy to use. As you know, food in such a cabinet is heated from below. But it is better to entrust the installation of such a miracle of technology to specialists - illiterate installation of this element can lead to disruption of the gas supply of the entire house, which is very dangerous.

You can install an electric oven yourself; it is much simpler and not so dangerous. And heating of products in such cabinets occurs evenly from all sides.

First you need to answer a few questions:

1. Are the hob and oven connected?

2. What is their power?

3. Will the electrical wiring be able to withstand the upcoming load?

Let's take everything in order before we start installing sockets for the hob.

In the case when the hob and oven operate independently of each other, it is possible to connect them to different outlets. Otherwise, you will have to work with one. If the power of equipment exceeds 3.5 kW, for their safe operation it is necessary to install a separate power wire and only use it to connect to the network. If you are confident that the cables will withstand a load of 16A, you can safely begin installing household appliances. If not, you should consult with specialists.

Installing and connecting the hob to the network.

First of all, I would like to say that when connecting this equipment you need to be very careful not to damage or scratch it.

First of all, on the very surface of the countertop we will need to make markings for the hob. In this case, you need to ensure that the distance from the edges of the hob to the end of the countertop on all sides is at least 5 centimeters. Next, using a drill, we make holes in the corners of the markings so that the jigsaw can enter them without interference. After that, using a jigsaw, we carefully cut out the tabletop strictly according to the markings.

And in order to prevent fungus from forming at the cut sites, it is recommended to apply a sealant (silicone or acrylic), you can also stick a sealant. Afterwards, carefully insert the hob into the hole. Attention, if the panel is inserted with difficulty, under no circumstances should you put pressure on it; you need to make the hole wider and try to insert it again. The last step is to secure the panel with the clamps included in the kit (they are fixed from the bottom of the tabletop with screws and do not allow the panel to move).

In addition to the high-quality installation of the hob, its correct operation, namely cleaning, is also important. As a rule, cleaning the hob should be done with a cloth or soft cloth (in no case should you use hard bristled brushes or iron sponges). For detergents, it is recommended to use soap solution or glass cleaner.

Oven connection diagram

First of all, you need to make sure that the oven niche is perfectly aligned both horizontally and vertically. It is important to remember that any, even the slightest misalignment can lead not only to equipment breakdown, but also create a fire hazard in your apartment. Use a level to level the niche.

When installing the oven, remember the following conditions:

The distance from the floor to the niche should be at least 8 centimeters.

The distance between the oven and the side walls of the niche is at least 5 centimeters.

The distance from the back wall of the cabinet to the niche is 4 centimeters.

Don't forget that there is a power outlet nearby (the use of extension cords is prohibited).

The cabinet is installed, all that remains is to connect it to the network. Connecting the oven to the mains is not a complicated process. But if there is a need to remove the wire from the junction box, then it cannot be neglected.

If the power of your equipment is 3-3.5 kW, you will need to install a separate circuit breaker with a power of 25 amperes in the panel, in this case you will need a VVG 3 * 2.5 wire. And if the power is more than 3.05 VKt, we will already be talking about a machine with a power of 40 amperes and a VVG 3 * 4.0 wire.

Connecting the hob and oven. Connection diagram, sockets

Once installed, you can use the new equipment without worrying about safety.

If your friends gave you an oven and a hob with separate power supply, but forgot to tell you how to connect them correctly, then you can find out about it on this page.

Even children and bank employees know that you need an outlet to connect electrical appliances.

Some will argue that you can only connect the wires coming from the hob and oven by twisting them and clamping them with the terminals with the electrical cable coming from the panel, but we know that our electrical appliances deserve more. They are worthy of a quality socket that has a simple advantage over twisting. The advantage of this is the quick connection and high-quality contact.

What kind of outlet is needed to connect both the oven and the hob? The solution is simple, and it is reflected in the photo below.

Socket location

This is a paired socket. You can connect both a hob and an oven to it at the same time. The hob is connected to the large socket, and the oven is connected to the small socket. I will provide you with the most complete information on how to do this. All you have to do is follow what you read.

First, decide where the outlet will be located. In my opinion, if there is space behind the furniture to the right or left of the oven and hob, then it is most convenient to place the outlet there. There are no strict rules here. You only need to think about how it will be more convenient to plug in and remove plugs from sockets when necessary.

It would not be amiss to mention that this socket is overhead, that is, it is placed on the wall, and not recessed into it. I don’t know why, but until now all sockets for electric stoves are made of overhead ones. But don't let that bother you. As much furniture as I have seen, the socket fits perfectly into the distance between the wall and the cabinet. And if you are making custom-made furniture, then discuss the location of this outlet in advance.

There is a hole on the side of the socket for the cable, so you don't have to break it out with pliers, which in itself is nice. Therefore, the cable from the panel can be run directly along the wall, securing it with dowel clamps. Or if you want, drown it in the groove as in the photo.

Attaching the socket for the oven and panel

Once you disassemble the outlet, you will find a metal panel to attach the outlet to the wall. It must be secured first through the existing holes. Attach the panel to the wall, make markings and safely drill with a hammer drill. Dowels and nails with a diameter of 6 mm fit perfectly into the holes. If the wall is concrete, use a 6x40 dowel. If the wall is brick, then choose the length of the dowel based on the density of the wall.

It must be remembered that when a dowel is driven or twisted into a nail, it expands in its far part. Therefore, if when drilling you feel a void in the brick closer to the surface of the wall, take a long dowel. Choose the length so that he has something to anchor himself in. If, when drilling, you immediately feel the resistance of the brick, then a short dowel, as for concrete, will be sufficient.
But if you are not sure that the panel is firmly fastened, drill additional holes in it with a metal drill and repeat everything again.

Installation of wires for the socket

Now comes the most difficult and responsible task. We remember that we have two sockets in one housing. The wires are connected in parallel, as in conventional twin sockets on the walls.
But there is one nuance that is worth paying attention to. In ordinary sockets, we usually extend the wire to the next one. Otherwise, they are simply uncomfortable. But ordinary sockets use wires with a smaller cross-section, usually 2.5 mm2. Those who have experience connecting them know how difficult it can be to bend several wires and give them the desired position in the socket boxes.

And in the socket for the oven and hob, the cable is even thicker, and there is even less room for maneuver. The cable is at least 4, or even 6 mm2. It is very difficult to bend such a cable into a socket shape. And clamping two cables into terminals is even more problematic. The contact may not be reliable, and over time it will begin to spark and burn, which can lead to failure of electrical appliances, or even spontaneous combustion.

There is a simpler and more reliable solution. You need to pass the entire cable, without cutting it, through the terminals of the first socket to the terminals of the second. For the terminals of the first socket you only need to remove the insulation. This can be done carefully with a sharp blade.
First, accurately calculate the place where the cable passes through the terminals, make marks and safely remove the insulation. Once again, the cable is very stiff! For high-quality marking and fastening, you need to do the following.

Completely remove the terminals from the large outlet. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws and not lose them, and all the small parts associated with them. Pass the wires into the vacant spaces following the following recommendations. Upper and lower terminals for phase and zero. It makes no difference where you connect them. The main thing is that the phase and zero correspond to the wires of the plug, which will be described below. The terminal that is a little further and closer to the middle is for grounding. Everything is visible in the photo, see below.

Once you manage to thread the wires, install the platform on the panel already attached to the wall and secure it lightly with bolts. Now, having straightened the wires, you can make markings.

The remaining wire or cable, call it what you want, straighten it so that it is convenient to insert it into the next outlet, then cut off the excess and strip the ends of the insulation.

Now unfasten the platform from the panel on the wall. Pull the wires out a little. So much so that it is convenient for you to remove the insulation for the terminals of the first large socket. Remove the insulation and carefully push the terminals into place. I warn you that this is not a simple matter or even a jewelry one.

Unfortunately, domestic technologies suffer greatly from some “clumsiness”. That’s why I personally cursed a couple of times while installing these terminals. I am sure that many of you cannot avoid this either. But everything will work out, I'm sure.

The socket terminals for the oven are mounted as for a regular socket, grounding in the middle, phase and neutral at the edges. But given the rigidity of the wire, you will have to tinker a little.

If, after removing the insulation from the cable, you find a layer of oxidation on it, then sand the copper with very fine sandpaper for better contact. Very fine - this is sandpaper for sanding walls for painting, with a grit of 240 or so.

Clamp the wires into the terminals, install the platform in place and fix it to the mounting strip. Remember, or better yet, write down or photograph the location of the phase and zero in the terminals of the hob socket, this will be useful to you when installing the plug for it. You can use a marker to make the necessary marks directly on the white cover.
Now you can safely close everything with a lid and enjoy your work.

The wire to the hob terminals must be installed in accordance with the hob instructions, each one has its own. You need to buy a stranded wire, but the cross-section of the wire must correspond to the cross-section of the cable (or wire) going from the panel to the outlet. .

The main thing is that the phase and neutral wires in the plug match the phase and neutral wires in the socket.

For those who don’t know, the yellow-green wire corresponds to grounding, blue or blue and white to zero, all other colors to phase. If you understand everything, then you will not have any problems.

Even if all the wires are connected by color as you please, the main thing is that the phase and zero are in place, regardless of the color. The phase in the socket can be checked with a regular indicator screwdriver when turning on the machine in the panel. The phase in the terminals on the hob is indicated by a letter.

In the instructions for the hob, phase and zero are indicated as follows. L – phase. N – zero. Grounding is indicated by a special symbol that you will immediately recognize. The main thing here is not to make a mistake in matching the phase and zero when the plug contacts the socket. Everything else is simple.

An oven, unlike a hob, is almost always equipped with a plug, just like a TV, hair dryer, refrigerator and other electrical appliances. There is nothing you need to do here. There is no need to look for correspondences and coincidences in phase and zero. There is no need to disassemble the plug and look where the color of the wire is. Just like you don’t do this when you plug in other household electrical appliances.

By the way, about washing machines. It happens that some washing machines connected without an RCD or grounding “pinch” their owners with electric current. In this case, the following simple solution often helps. Unplug the plug from the outlet and plug it back in, reversing the “teeth” of the plug.

As for connecting the oven and hob to the outlet, that’s all I wanted to write. If you have any difficulties, ask in the comments. I hope that everything stated above will help you a lot.

In order for the devices to work for a long time and uninterruptedly, and for you to be confident in their safety and reliability, you need to connect the equipment correctly. This article will tell you how to choose a socket and install the oven electrically.

What type of outlet should it be?

Connecting the hob and oven to the network will be successful if you choose the right cables and sockets that meet certain requirements. They are purchased taking into account the power of the devices specified in the documentation. To find the amperage that the outlet will be rated for, you need to divide the power of the device by the mains voltage. The result obtained is increased by 5 units for reinsurance. Hobs operate at voltages of 220 V and 380 V, with a current of 25 A or 32 A.

Very high power devices may require a 40A outlet.

The first question that buyers have when installing equipment is whether it can be plugged into a regular outlet. Some ovens have low power (up to 3.5 kW). They operate from a standard outlet. For an oven of this type, a 220 V cable and a 16 A socket are suitable. Electric panels have a power of 3.6-7 kW. This type of equipment requires a separate electrical line. In this case, a power socket designed for 32 A is equipped. The plug is not included in the kit, so it will have to be purchased separately.

For a built-in oven that operates with a voltage of 3.5 kW, you will need a three-phase 20 A socket. It is capable of operating equipment with power from 3.6 to 7 kW. If the package does not include a three-phase plug, you should also buy one. Sockets and plugs of such devices are designed to provide grounding, and therefore have more than 3 pins. Connecting an ungrounded device voids the warranty of the equipment and poses a threat to the health of users.

For a built-in electrical cabinet connected to a panel, there is no need to install a special socket. For such equipment, a common power line is provided. If two devices are independent, then two sockets will be needed. The devices will have independent mounting points on the panel and separate cables. To install the socket you will need a cover box. Its characteristics must correspond to the current strength. For a 20 A socket, the unit plug and box must have identical markings. Socket boxes are designed for hidden and outdoor installation.

It is not recommended to buy cheap components for safety reasons. A low-quality product may melt, short out, or install poorly. The Euro socket must have ceramic “insides”. This material can withstand long-term high loads. External installation of sockets is usually used in wooden buildings, where the wiring is also open. This installation is carried out to protect residents from fire. Internal sockets are placed in aerated concrete, brick, and block walls.

General requirements

Before purchasing an oven and hob, allocate a specific place in the kitchen for them. A hole is cut in the countertop for the built-in panel. A special niche in the furniture is arranged for the closet. When installing the oven, do not allow the device to distort. To do this, check the surface on which the device will stand with a level. If the oven is placed crookedly, this will cause uneven heating and rapid wear of the equipment, causing breakdowns.

Check that between the device and the walls of the furniture there are the gaps are at least 5 cm, and between the bottom of the device and the niche - about 7-9 cm. When planning the location of new equipment, it is also taken into account that the hood and ventilation hole should be located near the oven, or better yet, above it.

Regarding the connection, the installation must comply with the requirements described below.

To the plug

Sometimes an oven or stove is sold with a plug. This element can be collapsible or solid. It is not recommended to remove the plug, otherwise if the device breaks down, you will be denied warranty service. In the latest models, the installation fork is often missing. This is due to the fact that in some countries the device can be connected to different types of sockets, so it is not advisable to equip it with any specific type.

The plug for an electric stove or oven is selected taking into account the power consumption of the device. For example, if the hob is 5 kW, and during the calculations you find out that you need a 32 A socket, then you will need a plug with the same parameters. The number of poles corresponds to the number of phases (plus zero and ground contacts). Plugs are purchased taking into account the network parameters. For powerful devices (more than 3.5 kW), a power supply of 220 or 380 volts is suitable.

To wiring

The safety and longevity of the devices directly depends on the quality and correct choice of wiring. If the lines are old, they must be replaced with new copper ones. When installing cables, the following factors are taken into account:

the electrical wiring is connected to the junction box using a protective shutdown device;
use three-core or five-core cables;
You can plug in an oven with a power of less than 3.5 kW into a regular outlet only if the wiring is copper and has a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm²;
for dedicated power lines, choose VVGng or NYM cables;
4 mm² copper wiring carries 5.9 kW and has a diameter of 2.26 mm, 6 mm² cable carries 7.4 kW and has a diameter of 2.76 mm;
individual power lines are not combined with conventional socket or lighting lines.

To cable

A cable with three current-carrying cores is used to provide a voltage of 220 V. It is capable of supporting the operation of household appliances with various power parameters (3-10 kW). Sockets for 16 A, 32 A or 20 A are installed for it, depending on the characteristics of the devices. If the equipment must be connected to a 380 V network, then you will need to lay a five-core cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm². With such a wire, you can provide a load of up to 16.4 kW.

Additional requirements are non-flammability, double insulation and moisture resistance.

To the circuit breaker

To protect the cable from loads, you will need a circuit breaker. The machine is selected depending on the cross-section and number of strands of copper wiring. For powerful equipment, it is recommended to purchase a class 32C switch. For devices with a load of up to 3.5 kW, a 25 A automatic machine is suitable, above this power - 40 A.

Installation location and rules

Before installing sockets, you should analyze the space in the kitchen, since there should not be a sink, drain or water pipes nearby. You cannot make a socket right behind the wall of the oven (where it can heat up), or mount it above the countertop level. According to European standards, a height of 15 cm above floor level is optimal. However, you should not take this recommendation literally. Usually they start from existing conditions and goals. The best location is considered to be the wall area below the working surface, if there is normal access to it. They also try to place the outlet away from the refrigerator and stove. Such measures reduce the risk of short circuit.

Some electricians suggest not installing separate power outlets, but instead powering the oven or panel using an extension cord. Do not follow such advice as it may create a fire hazard. The well-being of all family members depends on how correctly electrical equipment is connected.

Connection diagrams

Depending on the characteristics of the home electrical network, one-, two- and three-phase connections are distinguished. To determine the type of connection and device ratings, you need to look at the operating instructions. The electrical diagram can also be applied to the surface of the device next to the terminal block.

Single phase

After connecting the three-wire cable, connecting the oven or stove to the line is easy, it will only take a little time. In this case, each of the 3 wires is connected to the corresponding contacts of the socket. The phase and neutral conductor are attached to the outermost two (it does not matter which one will be on the left or on the right). The grounding cable is connected to the grounding terminal. It is usually located in the middle. Then install the frame and decorative cover.

Without fork

The wire from the oven must be protected, secured with a tip and connected to the contacts of the purchased plug. Place the green ground on the middle contact, and the phase and zero on the side ones. Secure the wire with a clamp. Assemble the fork. To eliminate errors, it is not enough to focus only on the color of the wire insulation. It’s better to look under the terminal box on the oven and check where the leads are connected. If the terminals cannot be examined without breaking the warranty seal, use a multimeter tester.

Many models of hobs are equipped with a cord having 4 cores (ground, zero and two phases), and there are three of them in the house. The device should be connected in a certain way in such a situation. Open the terminal cover. Find the ground outlet. Nearby there is a jumper for two inputs. Combine two phases L1 and L2 (black and brown). Slide it under the jumper and tighten the contacts.

When connecting, use only the brown wire, insulate the black wire.

Two-phase

If the apartment has four-phase wiring, as does the device, then there should be no problems with the connection. Just connect the corresponding colors. Wires with black and brown insulation are phases, blue corresponds to zero, grounding corresponds to green. It is more difficult if the hob is equipped with a cord with five or six wires. Then it will be necessary to combine two phases, and, if necessary, two neutrals.

Let's start with the fact that I personally asked the seller the same question during the purchase, and received another question: What kind of oven do I want to buy? This is what determines which socket you need to purchase. At a minimum, all ovens are divided into two groups:

oven for 220 volts
oven 380 volt

Next, you can divide ovens by power. I won’t give exact figures, only those cabinets that I myself have seen, ranging from 2.5 kW (at 220 volts) the lowest power and 10 kW (at 380 volts) the most powerful. There may also be less or more powerful cabinets.

You see how different the advice can be.

Now from personal experience:

Despite the fact that the question is about what kind of socket is needed to connect the oven plug, it is worth noting that many buyers do not even know that there are alternative, one might even say more correct, ways to connect such devices as an oven, I do not use plug and socket.

Terminal blocks

This is the only correct connection method, since the oven is connected directly (separate wiring line) to the panel, even if a line for the hob has already been laid, it cannot be connected to the oven. Only a separate power supply line. This means that except for the oven, nothing else will be powered on this cable. Well, it’s best to run the cable from the electrical panel to the oven itself and connect it directly, without breaking into a socket-plug or terminal blocks.

Plus connection via terminal blocks is that they have a more reliable connection for breaking the electrical cable.

Minus connection, to disconnect, you will need to turn off the power to the panel and open the block.

Here are the 220 volt terminal blocks

These are 380 volt terminal blocks (ground separately)

What I mean is that it is best to replace the socket with a block.

But if you still decide to choose a plug-in connection, then you need to match the socket to the plug or, best of all, buy a pair from the same manufacturer.

Sockets 220 volt oven up to 3.5 kW

For sockets (as well as plugs) for 220 volts, it is necessary to install a plug-socket pair with grounding.

The socket and plug must be at least 16A (standard option), but what it looks like, built-in or surface-mounted, is not important.

Sockets 220 volt oven from 3.5 kW to 7 kW

I repeat that sockets (as well as plugs) for 220 volts must be grounded. Also, the shape and type of installation does not matter, the main thing is that they are 32A. These socket-plugs look a little different than the usual ones.

Sockets 380 volt oven up to 3.5 kW

There are also ovens with 380 volts and a power of up to 3.5 kW, be sure to check the power, 16A sockets are suitable for such ovens.

Sockets 380 volt oven from 3.5 kW to 7 kW

But most ovens with a voltage of 380 volts have a power of over 3.5 kW; 32A sockets must be installed there.

Not long ago we talked about choosing a cable and its cross-section for a hob (be sure to read this material). With proper electrical wiring, the hob and oven are usually connected to the same connection for the electric stove. But how to do this if these devices have different plugs, moreover, most often the hob is not equipped with an electrical cord for connection at all, or the cord does not have a plug and is designed for connection through terminals.

As installers usually do in such a situation, they cut off the plug from the oven and connect these wires along with the oven through the terminal blocks to the electrical outlet coming out of the wall. The huge disadvantage of this method is that you lose the warranty on the oven due to a damaged plug.

The second option is to install a separate outlet under the oven, and the hob is connected to the terminals. The disadvantage of this method is that it is necessary to think through everything in advance, at the stage of installing the electrical wiring, and connect the power wire to the socket for the oven and the output for the hob.

Now there is a third option that solves all these problems and allows you to correctly connect a separate built-in hob and oven, without any additional preparation, even in a kitchen in which the power output has not been specially altered - this is the use of a combined socket. A detailed example of connecting the cooker to the network through such a connector is described.

In this case, this is a combined Schneider Electric socket of the Prima series (Article RA32-211R-B), which combines a power connector for a stove or hob and a standard “Euro” socket for an oven.

This socket is overhead, By installing it and connecting it to the power cable for an electric stove, you can connect both the oven and the hob to it at once. Next I will show how it is installed

INSTALLING A COMBINED OVEN AND HOB OUTLET

The Prima combination socket is supplied with, the socket mechanism itself, the caliper - the mounting platform and the bolt.

First of all, you need to fix the support to the wall, next to the power cable for the cooker, as shown in the image below.

Quite often, the wall where the electrical outlet for the stove in the kitchen is located is concrete or brick, so first we apply the support to the installation site and mark the mounting holes.

Then, using a hammer drill, in the marked places, we make holes for fasteners, usually a 6mm diameter drill is used for this.

We fasten the support to the wall with dowel nails. You can also use any other suitable fasteners, for example, dowels (plugs) and self-tapping screws. If the wall material is soft, such as wood or foam block, it is not necessary to make holes; you can fix the support directly with self-tapping screws.

We disassemble the socket mechanism. To do this, you need to unscrew the bolt on the front side (see image below)

As you can see, inside there are two separate, unconnected mechanisms, one is a 16A “Euro” socket, and the other is a 32A power socket for a hob or stove. We'll connect them a little later. Now you need to secure the socket mechanism in the caliper, on the wall.

For this purpose, the caliper has a special “eye,” and the platform where the sockets are installed has a protrusion that fits into this “ear.”

Then bolts need to be tightened, which are located in the places where the sockets are attached to the platform. These bolts pass through the mechanism and are screwed into the caliper, where threaded mounting holes are specially made for them, thereby reliably connecting the caliper with the mechanisms.

Before proceeding directly to the connection, Be sure to make sure there is no voltage on the input power cable. You can turn off the current supply in the electrical panel; most often, it is enough to simply find the appropriate machine; it is usually of the largest nominal value, most often 32A-40A.

For your convenience, below we have prepared a diagram that clearly shows the order of connecting the wires.

Now Let's move on to preparing the power cable, it is necessary to remove the insulation from it and strip the conductors. Then connect it to a power outlet, in this case, phase and neutral are connected directly to the mechanism, and for grounding there is a separate terminal located between the “Euro” socket and the power one.

We visually check all connections and perform a test stretch of all terminal bolts, after which you can put on the socket body, securing it with a bolt.

This completes the connection of the combined socket. You can check its operation by first turning on the power supply in the electrical panel. I’ll also add that a white plastic power plug is ideal for this outlet; we talked about it in detail.

If you still have any questions about the combined socket, or have comments or suggestions, be sure to write in the comments to the article, I will be glad to answer everyone.