Strawberry whiskers: when they need to be trimmed, mustache propagation, how to root strawberry mustaches without roots. We grow Victoria in a new way When and how to plant Victoria in the fall

Gardeners rarely do without strawberries on their plots. This berry pleases both children and adults with juicy, sweet fruits. Harvesting can be a very exciting activity for the whole family.

The vast majority of plantings on such plantations are occupied by the Victoria variety, but not everyone knows that in fact it is a garden strawberry, and not a strawberry, a cultivated variety of wild berries, known since the 18th century, brought to us from America. It is very problematic to meet real strawberries on someone's site, because the preference is given to the Victoria variety.

Description of culture

Low shrubs with broad leaves are found everywhere, wherever there is garden land. Unlike strawberries, the fruits are larger, juicy and fragrant. With proper care, you can collect a huge amount of berries from a small area.

According to science, strawberries are an excellent source of vitamins and antioxidants. By eating these small goodies, you can recharge your energy and health components for the whole year.

To prolong the pleasure of enjoying red “hearts”, jam is made from them, compotes and other preservation are made, baking lovers delight themselves with pies, etc.

Landing dates

You can plant this plant from the onset of spring to late autumn. If you listen to the advice of experienced gardeners, then it is better to do this after the fruitful period, when it becomes cool.

Why autumn?

The answer is quite simple. Let's look at the process of planting or transplanting.

We take the bush out of its usual land and transplant it to a site where there is a completely different soil. Yes, maybe it is more suitable, rich in essential minerals and nitrogen, ideal for this type of plant, but it takes time to adapt - it's like moving to another place.

In addition, during this action, small roots are damaged, which are excellent extractors of trace elements and nutrients. It takes time to heal wounds, and after that, you need to restore the lost threads, for the normal provision of the bush.

If you transplant a bush in the spring, before the harvest is harvested, then this season we will not see berries, since the plant needs to recover and adapt. There will not be enough strength for the fruits; well, if the flowers are tied.

In autumn, the picture looks different. By this time, the plant has fulfilled its function, there is no need to spend energy on growth, flowering and growing fruits, you can slowly restore what was lost and adapt to new conditions.

In cool autumn climates, the movement of juices slows down, leaves become unnecessary and efforts are spent on survival. By the next season, everything will return to normal again, and each bush will delight with its berries.

From this we can conclude that transplanting in the fall is much more expedient - in this case, you will receive the harvest and let the plant calmly overcome stress. A transplant in the spring will not give you berries from the bush, because they simply do not have time to develop. An excellent time for carrying out such actions will be September, in northern conditions - August; in warmer regions, transplanting can be postponed until October. During the period when the leaves begin to die off, they become sluggish, this is best done.

Site selection and soil preparation

When planning a transplant of garden strawberries, you need to choose the right place. For good growth and fruiting, Victoria needs enough sun and moderately fertilized land. If the site has already been selected, then you can plant it with green manure. These are plants that are then buried in the ground, and they perfectly rid the site of weeds, saturate the ground with nitrogen and minerals in the process of decomposition. The roots that remain in the soil will serve as excellent aerators, nourish the deep layers with air. The beds are also suitable, where greens, onions, and garlic had previously grown.

An excellent view for preparation will be lupine. This flower from the legume family will give you a view over the summer and will make an excellent base for growing strawberries outdoors.

How to plant a culture?

For the correct landing of Victoria, several conditions must be met, which are designed to ensure the comfort of the plant in the new site:

the site should be located in a place where groundwater does not flood it. Excess moisture can lead to plant disease;
bushes in a row sit at a distance of at least 20 cm, this will give room for the development of a seedling, between rows there should be 40-60 cm for easy harvesting and the possibility of passage without damaging the leaves;

when choosing seedlings when buying, take bushes where there are no more than four leaves, it is better to cut off the extra ones, because they will only take away nutrients, and you can get enough sunlight from a smaller amount. Long roots can be trimmed because the excess will intertwine and interfere with growth;
make sure that there are no larvae of various pests on the site (Colorado potato beetle, wireworm, etc.). If pests are found, then spill the soil with an insecticide or add ammonium nitrate;
the soil should not be acidic, if necessary, sprinkle with lime fluff to normalize Ph;
in the process of disembarking, make sure that the center of the bush is not covered with earth. This leads to the development of diseases and decay;

the ground around the plant must be tamped and, if possible, mulched;
for transplanting or disembarking, it is better to choose a cloudy day when the sun will not cauterize the plant;
as a covering material, geotextiles should be used, which allows moisture to pass through, but protects from sunlight. The black color of this material will provide the necessary warmth for plants that begin to grow.

At home, before planting, seedlings can be kept for several days in saturated soil in order for it to gain strength; the same can be done if exposure takes place in a greenhouse. Temperature and humidity levels need to be monitored. High temperature provokes intensive growth, which is not at all desirable for seedlings, high humidity can cause the development of characteristic diseases.

Following the scheme, you need to place the bushes at a decent distance from each other, so that when they grow, they do not overlap each other.

If you need to plant strawberries to get offspring through a mustache and the harvest of this season does not really matter, then you need to transplant plants into the prepared soil in the spring, when the threat of frost recedes and the temperature of the earth rises to around 20 degrees. This method, as mentioned above, does not guarantee a harvest, but stimulates reproduction. Having received sprouts from the mustache, they can be streamlined or transplanted in the fall. These manipulations will allow you to organize a whole plantation of a dozen plants in one season.

Another important fact. It is very difficult to grow seedlings of this plant from a berry on which the seeds are located; a lot of conditions must be observed. Here, the conditions for germination of the fetus, the care of seedlings and many other little things matter. The term for obtaining full-fledged seedlings is about four years.

Of course, the easiest solution would be to buy sprouts on the market or in special nurseries, but if you want to try your hand at growing, burn with the desire to save your particular plant species and time allows you to spend several years achieving results, then everything is in your hands.

The pride that all these plants are the result of your efforts will undoubtedly compensate for all the moral costs and unrest during the growing period. Perhaps, in this way you will preserve the unique type of strawberries, because, as you know, each generation of any culture differs in its properties from the previous one.

How to care for a berry?

If we talk about caring for this small but demanding plant, then first of all I want to note the flowering period. Here you need to provide food and pollination, so that the efforts spent earlier are not in vain.

fertilizers for ordinary flowering vegetables will not work here. The concentration of minerals and other things there is different;
after the appearance of flowers, strawberries need potassium. One teaspoon of potassium nitrate per ten liters of water will be a great help;
when buds appear, you can give the bushes bird droppings, ash or humus. These substances are very caustic, and therefore they must be added in dissolved form in small quantities;
to increase the number of inflorescences, during the ovary period, strawberries are watered with a solution of boric acid (a pinch per ten liters of water), this stimulates the formation of new stalks;
it is necessary to ensure watering of the plant, because its roots are not deep and cannot get enough moisture from the soil. It is important not to overdo it, excess water leads to decay of the base of the bush.

Among other things, it is recommended to remove the mustache at this time so that they do not take away extra strength, leaves that have withered or withered for the same reason. The correct solution would be the removal of the first, very weak, fruiting plants. Subsequent ovaries will be stronger, and if there is more strength, they will develop well.

If your strawberries have started to show pale and small fruits this season, then this is a lack of pollination. The reason for this may be rainy weather, lack of honey insects, etc. In such cases, you can do the following:

with a soft brush, go through the available colors. This will create forced pollination and allow good fruit to form;
dissolve one tablespoon of honey in a liter of water and sprinkle the bushes with this solution. The bees will definitely fly to the familiar smell, and then nature will do its own;
plant several types of garden strawberries on one site. This is where the principle of self-pollination comes into play. Pollen will be carried by the wind, and the plants will receive the necessary substances for the formation of fruits.

After harvesting, bushes need to be rid of excess mustache to prepare for winter. Late shoots will not be able to grow and will die during the cold weather, at the same time they deprive the main bush of food. This will provide an opportunity to gain the necessary strength before wintering.

After the end of the fruiting season, the plant also needs to be fed. Small portions of mineral fertilizers, ash, potassium sulfate will give him the opportunity to accumulate strength for a long hibernation. This is very important for getting a good harvest next year.

It is best to cover the plants from the effects of frost with some material that does not absorb moisture, respectively, will not freeze in the winter, and will not maintain the effect of a freezer, which can lead to freezing of the roots.

Reproduction methods

In the end, let's look at how to propagate Victoria garden strawberries. There are only two of them:

division of the bush;

The first method is used for thick bushes, where there are many shoots and a developed root system. We dig out one of the objects and simply divide it into two or three parts. This can be done by hand, the main thing is that there are enough roots on each separated sprout or with a knife, cutting through the base and root. This method injures the plant, but brings results. During the season, all wounds will heal, and the characteristics of the strawberry will be restored.

The second way is more gentle. You just need to collect the shoots that each bush releases with a mustache, and break the thread connecting them - just transplant it to the intended place.

You need to know that when dividing a bush, its characteristics deteriorate, the fruits in the next season will be smaller and their number may be less. The second method does not disturb the natural course of things and allows the plant to develop at the speed it needs.

In conclusion of all of the above, we can say that growing a good crop of strawberries in your summer cottage is not a problem, for this you just need to make some efforts. Undoubtedly, during fruiting your efforts will be rewarded, and you will be able to please loved ones, yourself and any other person with beautiful, juicy fruits.

You can learn more about growing Victoria in the next video.

How and when is Victoria transplanted? Kseniya
Care for Victoria in the fall: tips for gardeners Natalya Karpova
Victoria berry. How to get a good harvest Pavel Bogachenkov
How to care for Victoria in order to collect her not in cups, but in buckets? Sharing secrets Daria Zvereva
Do you know how to process Victoria in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
How to process Victoria in the fall: tips and tricks Kseniya
How to ensure proper care for Victoria Elena Markova
Do you know when to transplant strawberries in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
Is it possible to transplant strawberries in October and what kind of care does she need? Oksana Kolchina
Planting strawberries under black covering material: technology, photos, reviews Elena Litvinenko
Victoria (strawberry) as a common noun for the garden berry Annam
Strawberry First grader: variety description, planting and care Victoria Litvinova
What green manure for strawberries will provide the best harvest? Elena Markova
Strawberries: planting and care in the open field and in the greenhouse Lazko Natalya
Zemklunika: varieties, features of planting and care Marina Adulyan

We grow Victoria three kilograms from a bush

Irina Lebedeva, an accountant by profession and a gardener by vocation, has been growing Victoria for 40 years. But even with such experience, it is recognized that the results are different and depend on weather conditions, seedlings or seeds. That is why he does not like to experiment and plants exclusively early varieties. She got a plot of 12 acres in the village of Krasnoe from her parents. There she and her husband Sergei Vladimirovich spend every summer. During this time, up to 3 kg of berries are harvested from one bush. At the same time, the berries are large in size - from the fist of a child.

“Victoria, or, scientifically speaking, large-fruited garden strawberries is one of my favorite berries,” says Irina Aleksandrovna. - Despite the fact that there is not so much space on the site, I allocated 3 beds for her, so that there was enough not only to eat fresh, but also to make preparations for the winter.

When and where to plant

Irina Lebedeva:

I usually plant at the beginning of May. I believe that the earlier it is planted, the better it develops. I plant in the evening so that the strawberries can acclimatize overnight.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

- It is better to prepare the beds in the fall, and immediately start planting in the spring. Strawberries love a sunny, open place. The direction of the beds is desirable to do from south to north. It is in this arrangement that it maximizes the use of solar energy. Try not to plant it under an apple or cherry tree. Soil moisture is another important factor. If groundwater is close, then the bed should be raised to 30-35 cm so that the roots do not rot. In dry places, the beds are low - 8-10 cm.

Seedlings grown using the Frigo technology are best planted in spring (read more about it on our website). Grown by tendrils or seeds, if the roots of the plant are strong, it can be planted just now so that the plant is ready for the temperature drop in September.

The plants planted now need to be fed with trace elements for berry crops, for example, Gumi-omi. You can treat the beds with special chemicals for the prevention of diseases and pests, for example, Fufanon, Ordan, Abiga-Peak.

How to plant

Irina Lebedeva:

- I make the distance between rows 60 cm, and between plants in a row - 20 cm. I make the depth of the hole for the entire length of the root. I dip the root of the plant in a solution of mullein or humus with earth. In the hole I add 1 tbsp. l. "Agrovit-Kora" or a pinch of "Kemira-Universal". I plant so that the growing point is at the level of the soil. Shallow or, conversely, deep planting leads to the death of plants or to their poor development. After planting, I water with water - 250 ml per plant as the soil dries.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

- First of all, we note that the key to a large harvest is high-quality, healthy planting material. In our case, this means a developed root system of at least 15 cm and a small rosette of leaves. The distance between plants should be a little more than Irina does: between rows - 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 30 cm. When it is planted less often, it gets sick less often, gives more yield, and the distance contributes to ventilation and good lighting.

In the garden, weeds are first removed, then leveled and holes are made depending on the size of the root, that is, for its entire length. Then compost (a couple of scoops), ash (half a matchbox per hole) and some earth are placed in this hole. All this mass is mixed, watered and only then strawberries are planted. Then they are covered with earth and watered again.

Before planting in a summer cottage, it is necessary to draw up a plan and observe crop rotation. That is, to alternate certain crops in the beds. Strawberries can be planted after any predecessors, except for nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, petunias, tobacco). But you can’t plant it next to raspberries, because they have the same pests. Before the formation of peduncles, it is necessary to water from a watering can, and after their appearance - with a ladle under the spine.

The maximum yield of strawberries is the first two years, and then the yield declines, and the risk of pests increases. It is possible to plant strawberries on the bed where it grew after 2 seasons. And before that, you can plant garlic or mustard, which will improve the soil. You can also grow strawberries where legumes were planted the previous season.

How to prepare for wintering?

Irina Lebedeva:

- In the fall, when the temperature is set - 2-5C, I cover the bed with Agrotex (covering material). And in the spring, when the snow melts, I take it off.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

- Each summer resident has his own way of mulching (covering the soil with a protective layer) of strawberries - mowed lawn grass, sawdust of deciduous trees, hay. But one of the means that will save the gardener from unnecessary trouble is Kostravit-M1 mulch. It protects the soil from overheating, retains moisture longer, saves from pests and suppresses the growth of weeds. Also, the mulch will save the strawberries from freezing in winter. The recommended thickness of the mulching layer is 1.5-2 cm in spring, and 3 cm before winter.

What varieties to choose?

This year, Irina Alexandrovna did not have so many berries, but they were all very large, about 8 cm in length. The hostess believes that this is the merit of the variety, which has not let her down for the 2nd season. Despite the size, the taste does not get worse. The main varieties that Irina Aleksandrovna uses are Gigantella and Festivalnaya.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

All varieties are divided into 4 groups: early, medium, late ripening and remontant. It all depends on the preference of the summer resident, what kind of strawberries he wants to see on his site.

Early varieties ripen at the end of June - these are Kimberly, Korona, Olvia. The berries are sweet, large, bright red, winter-hardy.

Medium ripen in early July - "Rusich", "Black Swong", "Vima-Zanta", "Zenga-Zengana". Berries from 20 g, taste sweet and sour, average winter hardiness.

Late - in mid-July - "Wima Tarda", "Vikoda", "Charlotte". Medium-sized berries, sweet-sour taste, good winter hardiness.

Repair strawberry garden. She gives berries a little bit, but all summer. Also, their peculiarity is that the berries are larger and sweeter than those of ordinary varieties. Blooms from May to October: "Vima-Rina", "Geneva", "Moscow Delicatessen", "Brighton", "Queen Elizabeth II".

How to propagate?

Irina Aleksandrovna breeds strawberries with her mustache. Just now I transplanted it to the bed where the onions grew.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

- This method has many disadvantages, although it is easy to use. After 3 generations, the berry begins to lose its properties. They become smaller, taste deteriorates, yields decline, and susceptibility to disease increases. The next drawback is the transfer of diseases from garden to garden. Strawberries, on which gardeners leave mustaches, spend their energy not on laying fruit buds, but on feeding their young shoots.

To avoid these problems, it is necessary to update the planting material, that is, take seedlings of the first reproduction. They give the maximum yield. Seedlings of this class can be found today. Sellers must have varietal certificates confirming this.

There is another modern way - the new technology of frigo (translated as "cold"). Throughout the summer, strawberries are grown in farmers' nurseries in the open field. During this time, she is not allowed to give the harvest, the mustache is removed. Then the strawberries are dug up, the leaves are cut, and the seedlings are stored in the refrigerator for storage. And in this state, it is stored until the moment when it needs to be planted. To us, in Udmurtia, frozen roots are brought from a Dutch nursery in the spring. After planting it, after two months, gardeners receive a guaranteed harvest. You can make an application for the purchase of seedlings of 1 reproduction using the freego technology by calling the Agricultural Academy 55-02-07, (the average price is 25-35 rubles per seedling).

How to care?

Twice a season, Irina Alexandrovna makes liquid top dressing for strawberries. The first time - in May, before flowering, and the second time - in early July, after harvesting.

Irina Lebedeva:

- For liquid strawberry dressings, I use fresh chicken manure. I water the beds well a few hours before feeding. Then, in 10 liters of water, I carefully stir a portion of fresh chicken manure at the rate of 1:10 and water it evenly from a watering can. After harvesting, I remove all weeds, loosen the soil around all the bushes and cover with a small layer of cow dung to fertilize the ground. I don't use any chemicals.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

- Experts advise feeding strawberries in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers in accordance with the instructions on the package (for example, AFK 16-16-16, 10 grams per square meter). But don't overdo it. They also recommend regularly applying a complex of microelements for berry crops, for example, Gumi-omi. After harvesting, it can be treated with special chemicals for the prevention of diseases and pests, such as Fufanon, Ordan, Abiga Peak.

How to get rid of pests

Irina Alexandrovna is sure that pests do not touch Victoria, because every three years she transplants her to a new place.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

The main pests of strawberries are May beetle larvae (Khrushchi). When digging the beds, you need to remove the larvae manually. Another method of struggle is to cover the beds during the summer of beetles in May with covering material, film or roofing material.

Another enemy of strawberries is nematodes - small worms. It is very difficult to fight them. The main way is to observe crop rotation. Eliminate the bed after 3-4 years of fruiting and burn the remains of plants. You can get rid of them with a folk remedy - pour a decoction of marigolds or plant marigolds on the future garden for several months. Before planting, when preparing a bed, you can plant it, for example, with mustard, it heals the soil. In a month, you can dig everything up and plant strawberry seedlings.

Victoria care and cultivation

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How to care for Victoria in the spring, caring for strawberries. Everyone in the country has a Victoria, in the spring when everything starts to grow, many have questions care for victoria, What do we have to do? Victoria leaves live 50-60 days a year. The top layer of soil up to 3 cm can be removed, so you protect the plantings from pests that overwintered in the litter. In the spring, when the weather permits, you can start cleaning Victoria from last year's foliage and debris. You can cut off all the foliage, leaving only the growing point. The whole victoria plantation can be sprinkled with wood ash, (read all about wood ash fertilizer at the link). Care for Victoria (strawberries) in the spring includes fertilizer and mulching. Sprinkling with ashes, also sprinkling with sawdust or ordinary humus. But on this Spring care for Victoria (strawberries) does not end. In early May, Victoria needs to be fed with complex mineral fertilizer. Before bud break, spray the bushes with a solution of copper sulfate, so you prevent diseases of young foliage. When green leaves appear on the Victoria bushes, you need a solution of mullein with ammonium sulfate under each bush. If you trust only natural fertilizers, you can, in addition to wood ash, Fertilize with potassium (sodium) humate. Water strawberries once a week with warm, settled water. You can water before flowering by sprinkling, but as soon as the flowers appear, you need to water under the bush, excluding the leaves themselves.

Growing and caring for Victoria

Have you decided to plant this wonderful berry on your site? For this you need:

Choose a placePrepare the soilPurchase planting material

We choose a sunny place for planting this wonderful berry. Then we prepare the soil for planting. Victoria prefers fertile land and for this we introduce humus at the rate of two buckets per square meter, and as mineral fertilizers - ash at the rate of two liters per square meter. Plant berries in spring, summer and autumn. The best landing time is the month of April.

At this time, the seedlings are well received, less sick, and in June it is already possible to harvest. For planting, you need to take sockets with a well-developed root system. Planted on a flat area, making small indentations and spilling them with water.

The distance between the rows is 50-60 centimeters, between the sockets - 30. In order for the socket to take well, we dip its roots into a mixture of mullein and clay.

The mixture is made at the rate of 1 bucket of clay per 0.5 buckets of mullein, diluted with water to a creamy consistency. Water thoroughly after planting. Then water as it dries.

Before flowering, watering can be done with a sprinkler, and then with a hose along the grooves. Victoria loves organic fertilizers and, for top dressing, I use mullein. I dilute it 1:10. I feed the plants twice a season.

The first time in early spring and then during the beginning of flowering. I feed after watering on moist soil. Then I loosen the soil and then mulch with straw or small grass cut on a grass cutter. Thanks to mulching, moisture is retained longer, the soil does not become covered with a crust, the berries remain clean and this protects the berries from damp rot and weeds. In order to get a larger and larger crop of berries, we remove the whiskers during flowering and fruiting. And if you want to propagate the berry, then after harvesting, leave 1-2 whiskers closer to the mother plant. Further care for Victoria comes down to watering, preventing the plants from drying out, weeding weeds and removing dried leaves. In order for the berry to overwinter well, it must be well shed in late autumn. And before frost, cover with foliage, straw or other material.

I, Galina Nikolaevna Sukhova, have vast experience in farming, with which I generously share on the pages of my website

Proper care for Victoria - a rich harvest

Right Victoria Care will allow you to get a rich harvest, starting with its planting and watering, and ending with the harvest. It is no secret that Victoria has many useful properties, not to mention its excellent taste.

A rich harvest is the result of proper care for Victoria. Garden strawberries, commonly called "Victoria" - a very tasty and fragrant berry. In fact, Victoria is only a variety of strawberries. Care for strawberries and Victoria have some features and differences.

victoria landing

Victoria should be planted on a flat, with a slight slope to the west, area. It is necessary that the landing area be well protected from the wind, which in winter, blowing snow off the plants, can cause them to die from frost. Victoria grows best on sandy loamy soils containing a large amount of humus. Victoria reproduces with a mustache that grows by mid-summer. From the nodes on the mustache, new shoots grow - rosettes of leaves and roots.

The first 2-3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation. The most suitable are mustaches from two-year-old bushes. When 4 - 6 leaves are formed on the outlet, it should be cut off from the mustache and, together with a clod of earth, planted in a prepared hole in a permanent place. Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary soil preparation.

If spring planting is expected, then the soil should be prepared in the fall, if autumn, then the site is prepared in June. 6 kg of humus and mineral fertilizers are added to the dug up earth per square meter: potassium salt and ammonium nitrate, 20 g each, plus 25 g of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to take care of the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. Leave 20–30 cm between the bushes, with a row spacing of 60–70 cm.

Victoria care and watering

Victoria is very whimsical to care and watering. With regular work to save moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, weed removal, you can do without watering.

But when it is watered up to 10 times per season, it is possible to obtain a more generous harvest. After flowering is over, the ground in the garden is mulched with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This protects the berries from the disease of raw rot. In the middle of autumn, you need to make a second mulching with peat or grain waste.

The thickness of the mulch should be 5 - 8 cm. After harvesting, loosen the ground around the bushes. With exposed roots, the plant must be spudded.

An important role for obtaining a good harvest of strawberries is played by its weeding. Good and timely Victoria Care will delight you with the harvest of berries that are indispensable in the treatment of kidney and liver diseases, diabetes mellitus. Victoria berries favor blood formation, increase working capacity, strengthen immunity. Read also about remontant varieties of victoria, as we often call it, or simply strawberries.

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Victoria - delicious victory with little secrets

Greetings, dear readers! One of the first varieties of the well-known garden strawberries is the Victoria berry. Victoria fruits have an unusual aroma, look beautiful and appetizing on a dish.

Victoria is a berry that has many valuable properties and contains nutrients. It contains vitamin C. The name Victoria is very suitable for this berry. To feel victoria - victory - you need to see a well-groomed garden of beautiful berries.

And for this you need to properly care for the plant. Let's talk about in the garden. Victoria breeds with a mustache. They usually appear in the middle of summer. For further cultivation, plants use sockets located next to the mother bush.

Mustaches from biennial plants are best suited. You need to plant a rosette with four leaves on the ridge, separating it from the common plant. Victoria bushes are planted in spring or autumn. But at the same time, the site for landing is prepared in advance.

For spring planting, beds are prepared in the fall, and for autumn - in the month of June, not forgetting to fertilize the ground. It is desirable to plant Victoria on level ground with a slope to the west.

In winter, snow should accumulate on the site so that the Victoria bushes do not die. In this regard, the bed must be positioned so that it is not strongly blown by the wind. In order to plant bushes, it is necessary to make holes in the prepared bed, into which the mustache, dug together with a clod of soil, is placed.

This must be done immediately, without leaving the outlet for the following days. Berry - Victoria is susceptible to infection with gray rot, in order to prevent this disease, the soil on the ridge is mulched with wood shavings or straws, 10 cm thick. At the same time, the leaves of the plant do not fall asleep.

When the crop is harvested, the ground around the berry bushes must be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the berry is spudded, regular weeding of Victoria is the key to getting a good harvest. Before flowering, in order to prevent the disease of gray rot, it is necessary to spray with a solution of iodine. Special requirements apply to watering bushes.

Moderate watering of the plant will allow you to save a large amount of vitamin products. Without additional moisture, Victoria will grow if you cover it with snow in winter, carry out high-quality weeding, and make timely and regular loosening of the soil. For today it's all about being on the plot. Do not miss the opportunity to enjoy Victoria berries.

Its taste is canceled, and the benefits are immeasurable. When using, it is necessary to carefully rinse the fruits under running water. You can use garden strawberries for fasting days due to their low calorie content.

The use of a decoction of berries and leaves will help to lose extra pounds. Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest?

This question worries many gardeners who first planted this berry crop on their site. Is it difficult to care for this plant? At first glance, it might seem so.

However, if we consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it can be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions on the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to it is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest. To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes.

Take a look at the photo attached below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. It is thanks to him that the reproduction of berry culture is possible. A mustache extends from the main strawberry bush.

Rosettes appear on these processes - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this outlet will also turn into a mother bush. Important! For reproduction, choose those shoots on which there are no more than three outlets.

This will ensure the stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit. As soon as the outlet begins to form, immediately gently stick its roots into the soil. So you provide the plant with a constant supply of important vital elements.

After a while, when the bushes form, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you do not have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own. Memo.

Victoria should be planted in the middle of summer (in July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of the day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization. What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit?

No, you need to plant only those seedlings that have a formed root system, there are several leaves and a heart is developed. Therefore, if you are buying outlets, then pay attention to all these factors so that you do not get upset later because your plant has not been taken.

In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then, before carefully tearing off the outlet from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots. Of no small importance is the place chosen for landing Victoria.

Berry culture develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Remember to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients.

You can not plant a plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (yield will be small). Do not plant strawberries in beds that are adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.

Also, do not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the neighborhood with corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds. The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds.

Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will contribute to the fact that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered to be moisture-loving plants. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water the Victoria? It turned out that yes. In the first month after planting, the plant must be watered into the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water.

It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive abundant moisture. Many gardeners in this case do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the bed and fill it to the top. Yes, do not be greedy for water.

For such generosity, Victoria will give you its large, tasty fruits. Here's what to do with this bountiful harvest.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need abundant watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant? From spring, strawberries begin to grow intensively.

If she is not given the necessary moisture during this period, then then one should not be surprised that the berries ripened small and dry. Watering continues until almost mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn season, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week.

This should be done in the morning and preferably with warm water. In the summer season, Victoria should be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. In this case, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

How to care for Victoria in the spring

The spring season is the busiest. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring? You have just finished eating frozen strawberries, as spring comes to the yard, and with it it's time for you to go out to your site.

Where to begin? To get started, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is nothing for them to take up space in the beds.

Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes. After carefully studying the bushes and removing the dead, proceed to the next step: remove the top layer of earth with which you mulched Victoria last fall. What is it for?

Firstly, various pests live in this layer, which have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the sun's rays. When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes will please with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate to it. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

How to grow a large Victoria

So, all the main work is done. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy? In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help Victoria in her fruiting. What is it about?

Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from the stone or want to get a large Victoria fruit - the right and timely fertilizer in these matters will play a key role. Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in spring (as mentioned above), but also before flowering and ripening.

In the first case, it is advisable to feed strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of manure is poured with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days.

The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a plentiful and large-fruited harvest. In addition to the information in the article, you can listen to the advice of one of the gardeners on how to best care for strawberries:

It is characterized by precociousness and high ability for vegetative reproduction. Its berries contain from 5.5 to 9.2% sugar, 0.56-1.37% acids, vitamin C (average 50 to 70 mg).

Reactive compounds (catechins, anthocyanins, flavones and others), trace elements (manganese, cobalt, iodine) and other valuable substances. Strawberries can grow in various soil and climatic conditions.

This is a perennial herbaceous plant, in which the leaves gradually die off and resume. The above-ground system has three types of shoots. The first type is shortened shoots (horns).

They have an apical bud, a rosette of three to five leaves with lateral axillary buds, and adventitious roots. From the kidneys of the lower part of the horn, new horns develop. The second type of shoots is a mustache. They are formed from the vegetative buds of the horn.

Rosettes are formed on them, daughter plants that are used for vegetative propagation of strawberries. The third type of shoots are flower stalks. They develop from the apical buds of the upper part of the horn.

The strawberry bush does not have a central stem and apical growth. New growths are formed from lateral, axillary buds, located below the apical ones, in the lateral part of the stem. From the axillary buds, two new stems can appear on the side, less often three.

The resulting stems - horns, in turn, also branch, form a set of shortened stems and make up the "crown" of the strawberry bush. The number of horns reaches 30 or more and depends on the age of the bush, variety, agricultural conditions and other reasons.

Horns appear in spring in limited quantities, but their mass formation is timed to the second half of summer, i.e., to the end of the harvest. Corded stems, or mustaches, are laid in early spring and are in their infancy for a long time.

Mustaches appear already in the first year of a plant's life and deplete it if they are not removed in a timely manner. Cord-shaped stalks-whiskers first grow up and then bend to the ground. When the mustache leans towards the ground and comes into contact with it, roots and rudiments of leaves appear on the nodes.

The roots are in the air for some time until they touch the ground along with the stem node. Under favorable conditions, developed roots and a small number of leaves form a rosette.

In strawberries, each new stem is formed from a lateral dormant bud at the base of the growth of the previous year. Since, with the age of the bush, lateral branches (horns) appear higher and higher in relation to the soil surface, the young roots also move away from the ground and are on the soil, as if in the air.

In order for young roots to grow and develop, strawberry bushes need to be spudded. The root system of strawberries is concentrated mainly in the surface layer of the soil - up to 25-30 cm. Under favorable conditions, the roots of new planting strawberries reach 70-80 cm in depth.

Some varieties (Early Makherauha, Leningradskaya early) are characterized by a more superficial placement of roots. The maximum depth of their placement does not exceed 60-70 cm. In all areas of cultivation, strawberries suffer from severe frosts if there is no snow cover.

Strawberry bushes in snowless winters die at a temperature of minus 15-18 ° C, but a slight snow cover is enough to sharply increase the frost resistance of strawberries. Winter hardiness in strawberries is reduced as a result of leaf infection with strawberry mites or white spotting.

The winter hardiness of plants also sharply decreases in a dry year, especially if the drought continued after harvest. The effect of drought is that after picking berries, plants form a small amount of new leaves, while old leaves, damaged by pests and diseases, sharply reduce photosynthetic activity.

The frost resistance of plants also decreases if the root system is not provided with sufficient air access. If the autumn is dry, the plants lack nutrition, they are weakened by weeds, pests and diseases, exhausted by the formation of a large number of mustaches, the next year the berry yield is sharply reduced.

It is advisable to limit the cultivation of strawberries in one place to four years, that is, to get a crop within two to three years. Planting strawberries, Victoria is carried out with healthy planting material.

In the Central Non-Chernozem zone, spring planting gives the best results (the third decade of April - the first decade of May inclusive). You can use planting material obtained from the uterine plots of nursery farms, as well as material stored in a refrigerator or in cold rooms during the winter.

Early summer plantings (July-August) using well-formed seedlings can also give a high yield next year. Autumn planting of strawberries should be completed before September 10, because at later dates the plants do not take root, they do not overwinter well.

Strawberries are planted according to a single-line scheme with row spacing of 80 or 90 cm and distances between plants in a row from 15 to 20 cm. two-line scheme, the distance between the lines is from 15 to 20 cm.

Such plantings give a 25-27% higher yield of berries compared to a single-line scheme. Before planting, the roots of strawberry seedlings are dipped in a soil mash. It is necessary to plant plants not very deep and not too shallow, so that the “heart” of the seedlings is on the surface of the soil.

Before planting plants, the site can be pre-mulched with light-tight materials. This technique contributes to the effective suppression of weeds, increasing soil moisture and creating conditions for the good development of plants.

This leads to an increase in the yield of strawberries by more than 30%, the ripening of berries is accelerated by several days, and the degree of damage to them by gray rot decreases. As mulching materials, a polymer film or thermohydrophobic paper is used.

The edges and ends of the mulching materials are sprinkled with soil and the seedlings are planted in the prepared holes in the mulch. Strawberry varieties recommended for cultivation are characterized by high yield, winter hardiness and resistance to pests and diseases.

Care for plantings of strawberries, victoria In the spring, dry leaves must be removed from the plot of fruit-bearing strawberries with a rake and, after the first loosening of the soil, seedlings should be treated against diseases and pests. In table.

12 lists some of the chemicals used for these purposes. When preparing the soil for laying strawberries, it is advisable to apply from 80 to 100 kg of organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost), 450 g of simple superphosphate and 180 g of potassium chloride to a plot of 10 m2.

At the same time, one third of the fertilizers should be embedded in the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm, and two thirds to a depth of 10-12 cm. It is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers under the strawberries of the first year because of the danger of damage to the berries by gray rot.

In addition, nitrogen fertilizers cause rapid leaf growth. Therefore, during this period, phosphate and potash fertilizers are used. In early spring, they are brought in evenly throughout the site and sealed with a hoe.

Strawberries of the second year in the spring are fed with ammonium nitrate (100 g per 1 m2). This top dressing can be omitted if a sufficient amount of organic fertilizer is applied before planting.

Under strawberries of the third year, 100 g of superphosphate, 100 g of potassium chloride and 150 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 m2 are added. Usually half of the nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, the rest - after harvesting.

Starting from the second year after planting, feed strawberries in early spring and after harvesting with a combined liquid fertilizer (1 part mullein to 5 parts water with the addition of 60 g of simple superphosphate and 100-150 g of wood ash to 1 bucket). They are fed as follows: on both sides of the rows of strawberries, grooves are made 4-5 cm deep and a fertilizer solution is added to them at the rate of 1 bucket per 3-4 m. After fertilizing, the grooves are covered with earth and watered.

A special combined mixture for fruit and berry crops is applied at the rate of 400-500 g per 10 m2, evenly distributed over the site. Additional measures to combat diseases and pests at the beginning of the growing season - cleaning from dry and diseased leaves, at the beginning of flowering - laying out straw between rows, folding rotten berries into a separate container when harvesting and destroying them outside the plantation, applying full mineral dressing and watering.

Chemicals used to control diseases and pests. In most regions of the Central Non-Black Earth Region, after harvesting berries, the leaves are immediately mowed. This is necessary to reduce the infestation of plants with diseases and pests.

The cutting height must be at least 1-2 cm above the level of the horns; leaves are collected and destroyed off site. In the second half of summer, the mustaches from the row spacing are shifted into rows with a rake, this contributes to the thickening and expansion of the rows of young strawberries with the formation of a strip of plants up to 40 cm wide.

On the site of fruit-bearing strawberries, the whiskers must be removed as they appear up to three times in the summer-autumn period, since the destruction of the whiskers contributes to a better laying of fruit buds and the development of mother plants. When using film shelters (tunnels), the harvest of berries of one-year-old and two-year-old strawberries ripens 10-12 days earlier and is 70-80% more than usual.

The simplest types of shelters are tunnels. For tunnel equipment, a wire frame is made over the rows of strawberries. To do this, a wire 4-6 mm thick and 2-2.5 m long is bent into arcs and placed above the rows of strawberries at a distance of about 1 m from one another.

A twine is pulled along the upper part of the arcs so that the film does not sag. Then the frame is covered with a rolled film. From above it is strengthened with the same arcs. For more reliable protection of plants from adverse weather conditions, the tunnel can be covered with two layers of film.

This is done under the condition that the air temperature is minus 5 ° C. It is advisable to keep the plants under the film until the first harvest. However, in case of severe drought, it is necessary to leave the film for the entire harvest period.

During flowering, the film shelter must be opened so that the plants are pollinated by bees. In tunnels, plant care is facilitated if a perforated (perforated) film is used (up to 40 holes per 1 linear meter, 26 mm in diameter).

Such a film does not need to be removed during flowering, as the bees have access to flowering plants using the holes. The cultivation of remontant varieties (Sakhalinskaya, Inexhaustible, Ada, Druzhba, Arpagoy, etc.) allows for continuous or repeated fruiting in a season.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, for example, the first harvest of berries of these varieties is harvested at the same time as ordinary varieties, and the second - from the end of July until autumn frosts. To harvest strawberries in the fall, semi-repairable varieties are also used (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana, Surprise Gallia, Beauty Zagorya, etc.), in which differentiation of fruit buds can take place in the spring-summer period during flowering.

The second harvest will be better if the differentiation of the kidneys takes place under conditions of a short day of 10-12 hours for 20 days (the plants are covered with opaque materials) and the air temperature does not exceed 14-16°C. To stimulate re-flowering, mowing the leaves after the first fruiting can be used.

Film greenhouses allow you to get not one, but two crops per season from the same plants. In the first year, the greenhouse can be used to grow seedlings and then leave the seedlings in their permanent place, so there is no need to dig, store and plant them.

Semi-repairable varieties of strawberries (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana and others) are planted in greenhouses, which, under appropriate conditions, give a second crop in 2-2.5 months. after the first, In other crop rotations, plants stored in the refrigerator are used.

They are planted 5-10 days after covering the greenhouse with foil when the soil warms up to 7-10°C. The best strawberry plants for forcing in greenhouses are those that have a well-developed bush, with three to five horns, with flower buds that have undergone differentiation (at a 10-12-hour day and a temperature not higher than 12 ° C).

In addition, the plants must go through a dormant period at temperatures from 0 to +5°C for 30 days or more. Plants are planted in multi-line ribbons on ridges 90 cm wide; for a single forcing, they can be placed from 22 to 28 pcs/m2.

If the plants are used during two growing seasons, the planting pattern should be two or three rows with a placement density of 9 to 17 plants/m2. In connection with the growth of bushes in three-line planting tapes, plantings can be thinned out by removing the middle line after the first harvest.

This creates better conditions for the remaining plants and makes it possible to grow compact crops. In combined plantings of strawberries and tomatoes, when growing the first crop for two seasons, tomato plants are removed after fruiting.

During the growing season, plants are regularly watered with water heated to 35-40 ° C, maintaining the optimum soil moisture of 80% of the total field moisture capacity (FWC) during the start of forcing and leaf growth, 70% of the FWF - during the budding period, 60% of PPV - during flowering and fruit formation). On poor soils, plants are weekly fed with complex soluble fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium (in a ratio of 10:5:20:6); they are introduced at a concentration of 50 g / l, spending 10 liters of solution per 1 m2.

To prevent the formation of underdeveloped berries, it is necessary to create normal conditions for the pollination of flowers, avoiding hypothermia or its strong heating, up to 35-40 ° C. Greenhouses need to be ventilated regularly. Artificial pollination is carried out mechanically or with the involvement of bees.

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Strawberries are a delicious dessert and quite a profitable business for modern farmers. Therefore, many are trying to grow it on their site and are wondering if it is possible to propagate strawberries with a mustache. Reproduction is possible.

In the first year, the mustache is removed from each bush, and when the fruits ripen, strong bushes are chosen, which are distinguished by large berries. They are noted to be used to propagate strawberries with whiskers.

Such bushes are called "uterine". The next year, do not allow the appearance of berries on the mother bushes. For this remove all buds before the flowering period begins.

The best time to transplant is spring and early summer. Within a month, mustaches will appear on the mother bushes, on which rosettes will be tied. Large rosettes next to the mother bush have branched roots and are used to prop up seedlings and to propagate strawberries.

The rest of the whiskers are not used for further reproduction, so they cut with sharp scissors by making an oblique cut. Often you have to remove the mustache several times a season.

You can not separate the mustache with a strong rosette from the mother bush.

Mustache breeding methods

Strawberry propagation options:

With the use of cups (pots).
Landing on the beds.

How to propagate in pots

Necessary:

Prepare small cups (pots). Fill with fertilizer.
Plant an outlet in a pot. Seedlings are left on the site, 1/3 of the height buried in the soil.
The shoot is watered daily. Make sure there are no puddles.

How to breed in the beds

Prepare the soil. Put peat and sawdust on the bed - fertilizer for strawberries.
Pin sockets to the ground, deepen into plowed soil. In this case, the tail will be visible in the soil, and the outlet - above the ground.
Water and care, as for other seedlings.

The right time to trim and transplant mustaches

A couple of weeks before planting, cut the mustache connecting the outlet to the mother bush. Young plants will begin to feed on their own roots. You need to separate the outlet from the main bush in time otherwise the yield will decrease..

Infected and damaged leaves are also cut off. If the young plant wilts, it is shaded and watered so that it begins to feed on its own.

Plants are transplanted into open ground after they take root. With early planting, the plants will get stronger by winter, and the root system will become branched and powerful, which will allow them to overwinter.

Sometimes, by the middle of summer in June, the required number of mustaches for transplantation does not grow. Then shoots to propagate are collected throughout the season. But do not forget that it is better to take such a mustache and transplant it to a permanent place in early autumn. no later than September, since bushes planted later will not survive the winter.

How to cut correctly

Mandatory rules:

Mustache trimmed in dry, sunny weather. It is advisable to prune in the morning or evening in spring or summer.
For cutting, use sharp garden scissors or a small pruner, cut at a distance 10 centimeters from the mother bush.

What mistakes are made

Circumcision is carried out in rainy spring or in hot sunny time. In hot weather, plants are susceptible to disease. In damp weather, the risk of fungal and bacterial infection through the cut increases.
Short cut off the mustache. Leads to drying out.
Tear off mustache. Together with the tendril, you can completely remove the plant or partially cut off the tender roots.

Rules for planting a cropped mustache

Breeding rules step by step:

- The bed should be located on a flat area, there may be a slight slope facing the southwest. There should be no trees nearby. Strawberries are a light-loving plant; with a small amount of sunlight, the berries will be small and unsweetened.
- Use soil that contains a lot of sand. Clay soil will create waterlogging, leading to root rot.
- Before planting, remove the weeds along with the rhizome. If the site is not cleared, the quality of strawberry growth and harvest will be affected.
- Dig deep into the earth 25 centimeters
- It is necessary to plant bushes in the garden in wet weather.
- Bed width approx. 1 meter.

Use a single-line or two-line disembarkation method:

- One-liner- the lines (beds) are at a distance of 60-80 centimeters from each other, and the bushes in the garden are at a distance of 15-20 centimeters.
- two line- the distance between the beds is 60-80 centimeters, and the gap between plants is 20-40 centimeters.
Water the soil before and after planting strawberries. The soil must always be moist.
plant in one row no more than 2 varieties of strawberries.
Place seedlings of several varieties in rows - 1-3 rows of each variety.

When planting seedlings, the "heart" should be at ground level. If it is located below - the plant will begin to rot, above - it will dry out or freeze.

To understand if a strawberry bush is planted correctly, need to pull a little. When properly planted, the plant does not pull out.

When planting seedlings use about 0.5-0.7 liters of water per seedling. Then, for two weeks, seedlings are irrigated 2-3 times a day, after which watering is reduced - after 1-2 days. Irrigation is carried out along the furrows.
Loosening is necessary. Allows moisture to be better retained in the ground and promotes aeration of the root system, prevents the appearance of a crust on the ground. Rigid earth is first watered abundantly, and only then loosened. When loosening, you can slightly spud seedlings.
3-4 weeks after planting strawberries, an inspection of the seedlings is necessary. If dead or withered plants are found, they removed and replaced with new ones.
Weed regularly.
For the winter the landing is insulated. Pine needles are used, it passes air well and protects from frost.

Growing strawberries is not a difficult process, the main thing is to follow the basic rules. It is necessary to choose the right mother bushes, prepare the seedlings, trim the mustache in a timely manner, prepare the soil well, remove and remove weeds, give top dressing and follow the instructions.

Provide constant care for both rosettes and seedlings throughout the summer season. And then it will be possible to achieve good fruiting and harvest a rich harvest.

Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered, it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a growth biostimulator for a couple of hours. Some gardeners keep bushes in garlic infusion before planting (150 ml of garlic infusion per 10 liters of water) to prevent pest attacks.

A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (it is advisable to remove the rest) and well-spread roots 10 centimeters in length (extra centimeters need to be cut off).

So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with "mounds" and the remains of the soil mixture. It remains only to install each bush on a mound so that the growth point (the so-called "heart") is on the same level with the surface of the bed, and the roots are straightened along the slopes of the mound.

Then, holding the bush, it is necessary to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done so that the contact of the roots and the earth is closer.

Be sure to ensure that the growing point is not too deep or too elevated above the soil.

Care for a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and mustaches may appear on the young bed. Cut them off without pity! Now the main task of seedlings is rooting in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until the next season.

Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is needles - it prevents diseases from developing and repels pests. But straw is also suitable, and dried grass, and foliage, and rotted sawdust, etc.

Two weeks after planting, the young berry is fed. As a top dressing, you can use biohumus infusion (sold in stores), bird droppings infusion or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic, contain a large amount of easily digestible nitrogen, which contributes to the rapid growth of young strawberries.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Planting strawberries in autumn is the basis of the future harvest

Good afternoon, dear readers!

Today we will talk about planting strawberries in the fall. Strawberries are the real queen of berries. Every gardener is waiting for her appearance. Delicious and bright berry has many advantages. She matures the very first.

It contains a large amount of vitamins, so it will be very useful for a weakened body. Due to the good content of antioxidants and trace elements, it can be used as a medicine. It will help with diabetes, anemia, high blood pressure, atherosclerosis.

Planting dates for strawberries in the fall

Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache

Growing under agrofibre

But strawberries are a rather capricious plant. Beginners face many challenges. The berry bush can dry, weakly bear fruit. Often it is attacked by slugs. To have fewer problems with the plant, it is better to plant this crop in the fall.

Proper planting of strawberries in the fall

By planting strawberries in the fall, it will be possible to harvest the first harvest in the summer. During spring planting, as a rule, there are no berries in summer. In addition, gardeners have more time in autumn. The weather is good outside, there is always a lot of planting material.

Thanks to warm weather, young bushes will take root well, take root in a new place and overwinter well.

Thanks to the autumn planting, gardeners will make less effort to care for the plant. They will have the opportunity to restore neglected plantations.

Strawberries need to be planted not only on time, but also correctly.

Planting dates for strawberries in the fall

There are three terms for the autumn planting of strawberry bushes.

The term of early autumn planting is from mid-August to mid-September.

In late autumn, the plant can be planted a month before frost.

Each gardener can determine the planting time independently, taking into account the development cycle of strawberries and the weather conditions of their area. As a rule, most varieties of berries throw out mustaches in June-July. They take root in July-August, and fruit buds form in September-October.

The highest yields can be obtained with early autumn and mid-autumn planting. I prefer to plant a mustache at the end of August, so I’ll just do it the other day.

Planting strawberries with a mustache is best done in the fall. The optimal period is from August 20 to September 15. Later, this is not recommended, since the berry bushes will not get stronger and will suffer from frost. Even a protective film will not help. After that, the plant will be difficult to grow.

A favorable day for planting strawberries can be recognized by the gardener's lunar calendar. You should know that strawberry beds are updated every 3-4 years. In order for strawberry bushes to give birth well, they must be transplanted gradually.

If you replant one bed every year, you will always have a good harvest. It is best to have three strawberry beds on the site, you will replant them every three years. Places for beds are periodically changed.

The best predecessors for strawberries are root crops - beets, carrots, radishes. It will grow well after dill, celery, lettuce, garlic.

It is not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, peppers, cabbage. If the plants have been infected with viral diseases, they will move to strawberry bushes.

Preparing beds for planting strawberries

Strawberries have no special soil requirements. It suits all types of soil. The best harvest of berries can be harvested if strawberries are grown in sandy, loamy soil, chernozem.

Productivity will decrease if strawberry bushes are planted in peat, sandy, clay, sod-podzolic soil. On swampy soil, the berry bush will not grow.

Before planting a plant, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, improving the composition of the soil. In heavy clay soil, it is best to add a little peat, manure and humus. This will improve aeration.

You can also sow green manure. Mustard and lupins are planted on the beds where they plan to grow strawberries. In the spring they are mowed and added dropwise, mixing with the top layer of the earth. This procedure improves soil structure, enriches the earth with nitrogen.

Thanks to it, less fertilizer is required. Weeds will be easier to deal with. In addition, pests are afraid of these plants. Growing green manure will help gardeners save.

If there is no time to grow green manure, 100 grams of superphosphate, 60 grams of potassium salt, 10 kilograms of humus (per square kilometer of land) should be added to the soil before planting strawberries.

Insect pests love to feast on strawberries. The greatest danger to her are wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and strawberry nematodes. It is very important to check the future bed so that there are no pest larvae. If you find them, you need to treat the soil with water with the addition of ammonia. It is equally important to clear the area of weeds.

Strawberries prefer well-lit areas. She is a "gluttonous" berry. For normal growth and development, she needs not only good land, but also compost. Biohumus or manure, ash should be added to the soil.

Strawberry seedlings need deep and wide holes. There should be a distance of at least 30-50 cm between them. An interval of 40 cm is observed between the rows. After removing the earth from the holes, it must be mixed with a bucket of compost, and two glasses of rotted manure. The prepared soil is poured back into the holes, making small mounds in the center of the grooves.

Selection of planting material, preparation of seedlings

To get a good harvest of strawberries, you need to choose the right seedlings.

Preference should be given to bushes with a root collar with a diameter of more than 6 mm. Seedlings should have a fibrous root system with root processes more than 7 cm. Good seedlings have 3-5 formed leaves and white juicy roots.

If you buy seedlings from the market or borrow from neighbors, they should be planted quickly. If it is not possible to plant it immediately, it can be dug into moist, loose soil in a shady area or placed in a cool room, after wrapping the roots in slightly wet moss.

If you plant young bushes grown from seeds, then a few days before planting strawberries, the seedlings should be placed in a cool place. Before planting, the roots should be dipped in a clay mash. This will prevent them from drying out, improve their survival in a new place.

Rules for planting strawberry seedlings

Strawberry seedlings must be planted in moist soil. This is best done on cloudy days in the evening.
During planting, seedlings should be in the shade.
Too long root system is shortened to 7-10 cm.
An hour before planting strawberry seedlings, seedlings are well watered or soaked in a growth biostimulant.
Many experienced gardeners keep strawberry bushes in garlic infusion before planting. This procedure repels pests.
Excess leaves on seedlings are removed.

When planting, each strawberry bush is placed on an earthen mound so that the growth point is in contact with the surface of the garden. The roots of the plant must be spread along the slopes of the mound. Holding the berry bush, it is covered with earth and spilled with water. So that the soil does not dry out, the wells of plants that have been watered are sprinkled with earth or humus. Immediately after planting, the soil must be loosened so that water flows freely to the strawberry roots.

Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache

You can propagate strawberries with a mustache. When fruits appear on the bush, in order to obtain new offspring, you should choose the most promising bushes with large and healthy berries. They must be one or two years old.

For reproduction, rather large sockets are chosen that extend from the bushes. They are planted in a seedling pot and pinned. Leave only the largest sockets.

Creeping shoots that connect the outlet to the strawberry bush are removed. Mustaches of the second, third order must also be disposed of.

When 4-6 leaves appear in July, the remaining mustache is cut off, the bush is transplanted to a permanent place. In this case, the remains of the soil from the roots do not need to be removed. After transplanting, the strawberry bush must be watered.

mustache strawberries

Growing under agrofibre

Thanks to the cultivation of bushes under agrofibre, strawberries can be harvested one week earlier. After the snow melts, the berry bushes are covered with agrofibre, which will protect them from severe frosts and drafts. Thanks to him, inside the bushes there will be an optimal temperature, which is necessary for optimal growth and development of the plant. In stable weather, when nothing will threaten the planting material, you can remove it.

Thanks to the agrofibre and the tunnel, the tasty berry will ripen two weeks earlier. To do this, wire frames are installed along the strawberry rows at a distance of one meter. For this purpose, use a thick wire (4-6 mm). The frames are deepened by 25-30 cm in depth. From above, they must be fastened and covered with agrofibre, burying the ends in the ground. During warm weather, the ends of the agrofibre are slightly opened for ventilation. In settled weather, the material is fully opened. Strawberry beds are covered with agrofiber after the plant has faded.

You can not only cover strawberries with non-woven fabric, but also plant strawberry seedlings on covering material. I often use black covering material.

To do this, the prepared beds are covered with agrofiber and cross-shaped cuts are made in it for planting and bushes at a distance of 40 by 40 cm.

Strawberry mustaches or seedlings are planted in these holes, watered well.

Care is reduced to a minimum - you need to monitor watering.

Weeds under dense fabric do not germinate.

Agrofibre allows air and water to pass through

The earth's temperature is a few degrees warmer

Berries do not come into contact with the ground - they do not rot and are always clean

Rules for the care of strawberry seedlings

After planting, it is quite difficult to care for strawberries. Planted strawberries should have a healthy and strong root system. If peduncles and mustaches appear on strawberry bushes, they must be removed.

The first days after planting, the berry bush needs moderate watering. The plant is watered from a watering can with small portions of water. The top layer of the earth should always be wet. Moisture helps new roots grow. Old roots help support the bush. After ten days of watering, increase the amount of water, but water the plant less often so that its roots absorb moisture well.

20 days after planting, the bushes will be ready for wintering. Under adverse conditions - after 50 days.

Strawberries are not afraid of rain and frost. Dry weather poses the greatest danger to her. Before severe frosts, the bushes should be well watered.

In winter, snow cover will protect the plant from severe frosts. If you live in a region with little snow in winter, you need to take care of the plant in advance. After planting, the area with planted strawberries must be mulched. As a material for mulch, it is best to use needles. It not only repels pests, but also protects the plant from diseases. If there are no needles, straw, dry foliage, hay, sawdust will do. Without shelter, the plant will die.

In early spring, the old mulch under which she hibernated is removed from the site. Thawed strawberry bushes are cleaned, old and deformed leaves are removed.

To remove all kinds of pests and warm the soil, 3 cm of the top layer of the earth is removed. The soil is well loosened.

look

Video about planting strawberries with a mustache

Planting strawberries in the fall is the key to a new crop for several years.

Sincerely, Sofia Guseva.

Proper planting of Victoria in the fall, taking care of an early harvest

How and when is Victoria transplanted? Kseniya
Care for Victoria in the fall: tips for gardeners Natalya Karpova
Victoria berry. How to get a good harvest Pavel Bogachenkov
How to care for Victoria in order to collect her not in cups, but in buckets? Sharing secrets Daria Zvereva
Do you know how to process Victoria in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
How to process Victoria in the fall: tips and tricks Kseniya
How to ensure proper care for Victoria Elena Markova
Do you know when to transplant strawberries in the fall? Natalya Salaeva
Is it possible to transplant strawberries in October and what kind of care does she need? Oksana Kolchina
Planting strawberries under black covering material: technology, photos, reviews Elena Litvinenko
Victoria (strawberry) as a common noun for the garden berry Annam
Strawberry First grader: variety description, planting and care Victoria Litvinova
What green manure for strawberries will provide the best harvest? Elena Markova
Strawberries: planting and care in the open field and in the greenhouse Lazko Natalya
Zemklunika: varieties, features of planting and care Marina Adulyan

How to care for Victoria planting watering and fertilizing

Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest?

This question worries many gardeners who first planted this berry crop on their site. Is it difficult to care for this plant? At first glance, it might seem so. However, if we consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it can be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions on the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to it is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest.

To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes. Take a look at the photo attached below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. It is thanks to him that the reproduction of berry culture is possible. A mustache extends from the main strawberry bush. Rosettes appear on these processes - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this outlet will also turn into a mother bush.

Important! For reproduction, choose those shoots on which there are no more than three outlets. This will ensure the stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit.

As soon as the outlet begins to form, immediately gently stick its roots into the soil. So you provide the plant with a constant supply of important vital elements. After a while, when the bushes form, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you do not have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own.

Memo. Victoria should be planted in the middle of summer (in July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of the day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization.

What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit? No, you need to plant only those seedlings that have a formed root system, there are several leaves and a heart is developed. Therefore, if you are buying outlets, then pay attention to all these factors so that you do not get upset later because your plant has not been taken. In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then, before carefully tearing off the outlet from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots.

Of no small importance is the place chosen for landing Victoria. Berry culture develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Remember to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients. You can not plant a plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (the crop will be small).

Reminder! Do not plant strawberries in beds that are adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes. Also, do not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the neighborhood with corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds.

The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds. Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will contribute to the fact that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered to be moisture-loving plants. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water the Victoria? It turned out that yes.

In the first month after planting, the plant must be watered into the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water. It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive abundant moisture. Many gardeners in this case do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the bed and fill it to the top. Yes, do not be greedy for water. For such generosity, Victoria will give you its large, tasty fruits. Here's what to do with this bountiful harvest.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need abundant watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant?

From spring, strawberries begin to grow intensively. If she is not given the necessary moisture during this period, then then one should not be surprised that the berries ripened small and dry. Watering continues until almost mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn season, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week. This should be done in the morning and preferably with warm water. In the summer season, Victoria should be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. In this case, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

How to care for Victoria in the spring

The spring season is the busiest. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring?

You have just finished eating frozen strawberries, as spring comes to the yard, and with it it's time for you to go out to your site. Where to begin? To get started, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is nothing for them to take up space in the beds. Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes.

After carefully studying the bushes and removing the dead, proceed to the next step: remove the top layer of earth with which you mulched Victoria last fall. What is it for? Firstly, various pests live in this layer, which have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the sun's rays.

When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes will please with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate to it. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

How to grow a large Victoria

So, all the main work is done. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy?

In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help Victoria in her fruiting. What is it about? Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from the stone or want to get a large Victoria fruit - the right and timely fertilizer in these matters will play a key role.

Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in spring (as mentioned above), but also before flowering and ripening. In the first case, it is advisable to feed strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of manure is poured with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days. The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a plentiful and large-fruited harvest.

In addition to the information in the article, you can listen to the advice of one of the gardeners on how to best care for strawberries:

We grow Victoria three kilograms from a bush

When and where to plant

Irina Lebedeva:

I usually plant at the beginning of May. I believe that the earlier it is planted, the better it develops. I plant in the evening so that the strawberries can acclimatize overnight.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

How to plant

Irina Lebedeva:

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

How to prepare for wintering?

Irina Lebedeva:

- In the fall, when the temperature is set - 2-5C, I cover the bed with Agrotex (covering material). And in the spring, when the snow melts, I take it off.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

What varieties to choose?

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

All varieties are divided into 4 groups: early, medium, late ripening and remontant. It all depends on the preference of the summer resident, what kind of strawberries he wants to see on his site.

Early varieties ripen at the end of June - these are Kimberly, Korona, Olvia. The berries are sweet, large, bright red, winter-hardy.

Medium ripen in early July - "Rusich", "Black Swong", "Vima-Zanta", "Zenga-Zengana". Berries from 20 g, taste sweet and sour, average winter hardiness.

Late - in mid-July - "Wima Tarda", "Vikoda", "Charlotte". Medium-sized berries, sweet-sour taste, good winter hardiness.

How to propagate?

Irina Aleksandrovna breeds strawberries with her mustache. Just now I transplanted it to the bed where the onions grew.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

How to care?

Twice a season, Irina Alexandrovna makes liquid top dressing for strawberries. The first time - in May, before flowering, and the second time - in early July, after harvesting.

Irina Lebedeva:

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

How to get rid of pests

Irina Alexandrovna is sure that pests do not touch Victoria, because every three years she transplants her to a new place.

Expert Vyacheslav Dolgovykh:

Did you come across this material because you most likely need to either plant or transplant strawberries to a new place? Basically, it's the same thing, you need to create a new strawberry patch in one of the possible ways. To be honest, this occupation is not too simple, but absolutely necessary. About why, when and how to do it most correctly and rationally, will be discussed in the article below.

One of the features of the development of strawberries is the gradual increase in the diameter of the bush due to the growth of new rosettes (it would be more correct to call them horns), which in the future negatively affects its fruiting.

When strawberry bushes grow like this, they become crowded, nutrition begins to be lacking, so the plant should be updated (rejuvenated) to return to its optimal productivity, i.e. plant or transplant (for example, if you initially planted bushes at too close a distance from each other).

Interesting! Strawberry bush development scheme:

an annual strawberry seedling has 1 horn (this will be the mother root);

for the 2nd year of life - already 2-3 horns (the most abundant harvest);

for 3 years of life - already 6-9 horns (yield is noticeably reduced).

Thus, strawberries can grow well in one place (without transplanting), as a rule, no more than 3 years. Actually, you yourself will notice how the bush grows, and the berries themselves begin to shrink.

In other words, the strawberry itself will tell you when it needs to be replanted, because there are certain varieties and hybrids that can normally bear fruit for more than 3 years, of course, with proper care and regular feeding.

What needs to be done to continue to get bountiful harvests of tasty and large strawberries? And here's what:

for the 2nd year, it is mandatory to propagate strawberries - with a mustache or dividing the bush;
in the 3rd year, overgrown bushes should either be disposed of (thrown away and not tormented), or the old bush should be divided.

By the way! Some summer residents who have no problems with a landing site (in the sense of a large and not planted area) do not get rid of old strawberry bushes, since the most delicious jam is obtained from small and fragrant berries.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries to a new place?

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of when it is better to transplant strawberries - in spring or autumn (more precisely, in the summer-autumn period). But you can highlight the advantages of landing in each of the seasons:

The advantage of transplanting in the spring is the fact that during this period there is a lot of moisture in the ground and the air is not hot. During this time, young garden strawberries will have time to take root and develop a good root system.
If transplanted in the fall, then before the onset of frost, the strawberry bushes will also have time to take root very well and give young green leaves. In addition to this obvious advantage, it often rains in the autumn, which means that there will be no need for frequent watering. In addition, at this time it is corny more time than in the spring turmoil with seedlings.

Transplant in the spring

The optimal time for transplanting strawberries in the spring directly depends on your climate zone and current weather conditions. As a rule, on average in the South of Russia (as well as in Ukraine) it is the months of March-April, in the middle lane (Moscow region) - the end of April - May, in the Urals and Siberia - the second half of May-beginning of June.

The general rule for determining the right time to transplant strawberries is the moment when the soil completely thaws and the air temperature rises to +10 degrees. Although, if the soil has already thawed, but the temperature is zero (and according to the weather forecast, it will only rise), then the procedure can be carried out, strawberries can survive light frosts.

Important! The main advantage of transplanting strawberries by dividing the bush in the spring is the fact that you can get a harvest (albeit small) in the year of division.

As for the suitable methods of transplanting (propagating) strawberries, in the spring this can only be done by dividing the bush, or by planting seedlings grown from seeds. It will not work to propagate bushes from mustaches, since they begin to form only in summer.

Video: strawberry transplant in spring

Summer transplant

You can transplant strawberries in the summer. But this is very undesirable to do if there is a strong heat, for example, in July. But it is in August (2 weeks after fruiting) that the most favorable time comes for transplanting strawberry bushes to a new place.

Important! Strawberries should not be planted in the summer heat due to the fact that the roots cannot yet properly receive nutrition from the ground, and hot air causes the leaves to evaporate moisture strongly. As a result, such bushes will either take root for a very long and painful time, or dry out (without proper care).

If you still decide to plant strawberries in the middle of summer, then you need to take care of it very carefully, namely, water it almost every day by sprinkling (but the drops should be small).

Transplant in autumn

Clarification! Rather, it is correct to talk about the summer-autumn transplant.

The best time to transplant strawberries is the beginning of autumn, that is, approximately the month of September. One of the main advantages of transplanting in the fall is the fact that at this time strawberries can be propagated, in addition to dividing the bush, planting seedlings grown from seeds, as well as using mustaches that will grow back over the summer. But it is necessary to root the mustache in the summer, in June-July.

But! If you live in the northern regions, for example, in the Urals or Siberia, that is, you have frosts early, then in the fall (or at the end of summer) you should not transplant strawberries, it is better to do this in spring (or summer) so that the bushes have time to take root normally .

Video: transplanting strawberries in the fall

Methods of propagation (transplantation) of strawberries

There are only 3 propagation methods for strawberry bushes:

dividing the bush (horns);
mustache rooting;
growing seedlings from seeds.

Video: 3 ways to propagate garden strawberries (strawberries) - seeds, mustaches and dividing the bush

Rooting mustaches (or rosettes)

Before you start rooting your mustache, you should take a closer look to take the most productive strawberry bushes for propagation. Moreover, you should take no more than 3-4 mustaches from one bush, and remove the rest.

Important! In such uterine bushes, in a good way, all flower stalks should be cut off and not allowed to bear fruit so that they direct all their forces to the mustache, although, in principle, this is not necessary.

Step-by-step instructions for breeding strawberries with a mustache:

Step-by-step instructions for transplanting a young strawberry seedling to a new place:

Important! This method of propagation of strawberries is completely non-traumatic, and the survival rate of bushes is almost 100%.

Video: mustache propagation of strawberries

Division of the bush (reproduction by horns)

Step-by-step instructions for dividing a strawberry bush:

A step-by-step guide to the further planting of divided strawberry seedlings (horns):

Worth knowing! The propagation method by dividing the bush is applicable to any type of strawberry, including remontant.

Video: propagation of strawberries (garden strawberries) by dividing the bush (horns)

Note! When dividing an old bush, delenki, most likely, will no longer produce a strong and stable crop, since these are already quite depleted bushes. Therefore, this method should be used only in exceptional cases, for example, if the bushes have frozen over during the winter or it is a beardless variety (which are now almost non-existent).

seeds

Important! Detailed information about propagation and cultivation of strawberries from seeds (planting seedlings) at home you can by reading .

Rules for transplanting (planting) strawberry seedlings and answers to frequently asked questions

Below you can find answers to current questions about the correct transplantation (planting) of strawberry seedlings.

When the simplest strawberry transplant is carried out (without reproduction and division of the bush) to a new place

In the spring before flowering (before the peduncles are thrown out) or at the end of summer-autumn (2 weeks after the end of fruiting).

How to move a bush from one place to another:

Remove old leaves (dark green) with spots, and you can also trim the leaves further (to reduce moisture evaporation)
Trim the mustache (if the transplant is in summer-autumn)
Prepare a large hole for planting according to the size of an earthen coma and shed abundantly.
Dig up a bush along with a clod of earth and take it to a new place right on a shovel, carefully lowering it into a wet hole.
Sprinkle lightly with water.
Mulch as desired and necessary.

Video: transplanting strawberries to a new location - expanding strawberry areas by planting dense plantings

Trainingbeds (soil) for transplantation

To prepare a new place (soil) for transplanting strawberry bushes, you will need:

Video: soil preparation for transplanting strawberries to a new place

Is it possible to transplant flowering garden strawberries

Yes, you can, but it is recommended to remove all flower stalks without fail so that the plant does not waste extra energy, but focuses on root survival in a new place. But still, it is better to carry out all breeding procedures either before flowering (before the flower stalks are thrown out), or after the end of fruiting (after 2 weeks).

But! You can also transplant flowering strawberries (but only young bushes), while you must definitely save the earthen ball (transfer the bushes directly on the shovel). In this case, the strawberry bushes will not notice anything and will continue to bloom further. But if the roots become bare during the transfer, then soon they will drop the flowers themselves and start to hurt ...

Is it possible to transplant (plant) strawberries to the old place

Yes, you can, especially if you process (spill) the garden bed (to disinfect the soil). But still, it is better to plant garden strawberries after greens (lettuce, sorrel), onions and garlic, carrots, beets, radishes and legumes. Categorical is not recommended to plant after potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes and peppers.

How far to plant

It is most convenient to plant strawberries according to the most standard scheme: 60-70 by 25-30 centimeters (tape in 1 row or rows). But there are various ways of planting - both simpler (solid carpet) and complex (tape in several lines).

Care for strawberries after transplanting

It is necessary to take care of the transplanted bushes of garden strawberries carefully, but in general care is quite simple - regular watering is mainly necessary.

So, after transplanting, the bushes should be watered every day for at least 1-2 weeks. However, you should try not to overdo it and not fill it up, especially if you. Approximately as many strawberries are needed to somehow settle in a new place. Further watering should be carried out as the earth dries up.

In the first year, there is no point in additionally feeding strawberries, because. when transplanting, you have already fertilized the bed well.

Proper transplantation is exactly what strawberries lack to resume the greatest productivity and prospects for a rich harvest. It is worth taking a closer look at interesting offers for transplanting a strawberry bush and choosing the most optimal for you.

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